Day 2 St Boswell’s to Jedburgh, 20 km

Another brilliant day. Perfect weather, easy walking, kind people, a Roman road, an excellent cafe lunch with decent coffee, and spectacular views of the river and yesterday’s three big hills, new yellow fields and more gorse.

We both had a less than perfect sleep last night. But we were up at 7 to get breakfast by 7:30 - typical hot British breakfast, which I almost never want, even a pared down vegetarian version, and especially not first thing in the morning! Despite our early start we did not get going until after 9. A few hundred meters in, we met an older woman waiting for a bus , with much of the usual discussion about walking. We were standing in a kind of square, across from a street sign that said “Jenny Moore’s Road.” We asked if she knew who Jenny Moore was. She said she thought she was a teacher - the first woman teacher? But, then: “who were you asking about.?Jenny Moore? No!!!” And she started laughing. “She was a witch!!!”

After the village , which is full of houses made from a gorgeous red stone, we walked alongside a golf course, then along the river bank for a few kilometers. An even nicer river walk than yesterday, the path was open, and the bank was close by. Saw lots of ducks and a few men fishing for salmon. The path comes up away from the river at Maxton. Sweet church, cheerful yellow fields. We felt like we were walking through an episode of Escape to the Country.

Many, many, many benches over the first part of the day. We availed ourselves of a couple. But when we wanted to stop for lunch there were none to be seen. And posters warning about ticks make the ground a less attractive option - just like at home. We eventually found a downed beech tree in the shade.

That was lunch #1 - typical packed lunch: sandwich, a bag of crisps, 2 cookies, one apple. Second lunch came later in the afternoon - halloumi and hot honey and arugula flatbread, Leicester cheese and pickle (chutney) in a pita. Perfect. E had burdock and dandelion “pop, which turned out to be upscale Dr Pepper! The cafe was part of a complex that has craft workshops, a store, and a huge playground. Seemed like a place people go for a day out.

Back in the woods we took the risk of an unconfirmed shortcut that crossed the garden of a huge estate belonging to, we learned, the Earl of Lothian. The woman who told us about the lord and his property also told us the shortcut would work!

After crossing a suspension bridge over the Earl’s river (!), there was more riverside path, more allium-filled woods, and then we turned off the St Cuthbert’s Way to walk about 4 km into Jedburgh. We’re staying in a fantastic and big B&B - or maybe it’s an inn? Super friendly, low key owner. She and the woman we met by the river know each other because their kids used to go to swimming lessons together.

Jedburgh’s the home of ruined abbey #2 and a castle and a house that Mary Queen of Scots stayed in at some point while she was ill. None of which we were able to visit.

The evening involved grocery shopping for tomorrow night in case we don’t get to Morebattle (what a name!) before the shop closes. The Coop (grocery store) here was not entirely out of food but the shelves looked like early days of the pandemic. I have no idea why.

Today was about 20 km with the walk into Jedburgh. It felt like enough with the sun. Tomorrow is shorter - we finally saw a guidebook and could find out - and should be about 16 km.

I’ve been counting border terriers. The current total is 5. I forgot to count the border collies. Lots of ducks and herons and terns ( I think) and very noisy crows, and unidentified songbirds. The odd rabbit. Sheep and cows - including a herd of black cows being led by a white cow in some kind of race across a field and back!Read more