We're taking a gentle walk from Porto to Santiago de Compostela (well, it may not be very gentle at times!), walking along the North Atlantic coast as far as possible before turning inland to SdC. Læs mere
  • Pam Simpson

Liste over lande

  • Spanien Spanien
  • Portugal Portugal
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Rejse med rygsæk, Kultur, Venskab, Natur, Fest, Spiritualitet, Wellness
  • 368rejste kilometer
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  • What to say?

    20. maj 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    I don't know where to start! Well, I do... The report this morning was that the bears had found Goldilocks' bed and were more than comfortable, thank you very much! It really was the most comfortable night's sleep we've had, I think. And it's a good job, because today's walk involved 21.6km (that's fine!) with much of it on an incline (that's not fine!) 🙄😱😂.
    We started off at 0730 after a quick breakfast of biscuits and little cakes, kindly left by our host, Raquel. Oh, and there was 'real' coffee - apparently that's a thing!😂
    Our route took us through Pontevedra and across the bridge. and on towards the point where we could choose between the Urban or the Rural (Spiritual) Variant. We'd already agreed we were walking the Spiritual Variant, having booked accommodation in Vilanova de Arousa, two days hence. Today's walk was to take us to half way, to Armenteira and the monastery there, where we hoped we'd find a bed for the night.
    Our first 5km was a bit of a march - the way was flat and it was easy to get some steam up - and even the beginning of the Spiritual Variant was pretty flat. As the boys are a lot quicker than we are, they had strict instructions to motor on ahead and stop at the next café, which only happened to be about 1km from our instructions! It was a small hotel that served the most delicious croissants, French-style, not Spanish-style 👏👏👏, so it was great to take the weight off our feet for a while before beginning our next slog. The next shops were about 6km away, and that's where we decided to stock up for lunch. Luke and Ray sped on ahead, ostensibly to get to the Monastery ahead of the crowds and book a few beds! The messages started coming back thick and fast - directions to take when the signs were poor, and then the news that there were no shops open 😱. It was a good job we were all carrying extra provisions (including Snickers, of course) as they became our lunch and/or snacks, and they were really welcome! There were lots of water fountains to begin with, so we drank lots and filled our water bottles up lots, too.
    The path was becoming steeper and steeper - it was one of those 'just around the corner' days. 'Just around the corner' - it'll go down a bit (no), - there'll be a café to stop at (no), - the walking surface will become softer on our poor feet (again, no!)🙄😂. So there was nothing for it but to carry on walking! Julie and I took a few drink breaks and managed to take a few lovely photos (we can always tell how hard a day it is by the number of 📸 we take).
    The boys were nearing Armenteira in their quest for a bed for the night and we still had about 5km to go (probably more!) so we left them to book into the Monastery and not worry about us! We were always doing the Spiritual Variant and are used to having no accommodation when we arrive and thinking on our feet😂.
    The path led us through eucalyptus woods over surfaces ranging from sand, which was lovely and soft on the feet, to large rocks or shingle-y type stuff, which wasn't so lovely. The final 1km was, thankfully, all downhill, but involved dodging between rocks and stones, which was very tricky (especially when you have big feet!)😉
    And then there they were!!!👏👏👏
    Luke very kindly offered me a coke zero, but tells me I was very grumpy and demanded a beer instead 🙄😂. A couple of beers and a menu del dia later and we were ready to find somewhere to rest our weary heads. Thing was, all of the local accommodation was booked up, but Luke managed to find somewhere for us on Booking.com. We are now installed in a 5 bed, 4 bath stone house with a swimming pool, a lot cheaper than staying at the Monastery would have been! The washing's done and drying, and we've been sitting by the pool (the boys risked it😱) dozing or catching up on our blogs, social media, BIAY whilst listening to some very chilling music 👌. The owner very kindly shopped for us, so we're also enjoying a glass or two of local Albariño 😋😋😋.
    We're discussing our starting point(s) tomorrow - our taxi driver is picking us up at 0730ish and delivering Luke and Ray to the Monastery, whilst Julie and I will go a little further and cut off 7.5km 🙄😂. Well! We've already walked about 230km so we deserve this little treat. And at the speed Luke and Ray walk, we'll likely arrive at our next accommodation (all booked) at the same time😂.
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  • Off to the seaside👏👏👏

    21. maj 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    After a very simple, but very nice supper of cheese and ham bocadillas, with added olive oil, then cake and jam, accompanied, of course by a bottle of the local Albariño, we settled down for the night.
    Sid, Marcel, Mouse and Mog had their own little adventure and had a go at swimming and sunbathing whilst we were eating! 🙄😂
    We were being picked up at 0730ish so made sure we were ready that evening. The owners turned up just as we were packing up, armed with a loaf of bread and lots of pre-packed croissants and cakes - how lovely of them! They asked us if we wanted a lift back to the Monastery the next morning, but we'd already asked our lovely taxi driver to pick us up, so we declined, telling them we'd walk instead. 🙄😂
    It was a good night's sleep, and the taxi turned up to take us a) back to the Monastery, and b) 7.5km further on to Os Castaños, where Julie and I would begin our walk.
    There were a few pilgrims ready for the off when we arrived in Armenteira, but Luke and Ray headed straight off and, knowing their speed, they would have left them far behind!
    Ray was determined to take the bread our hosts had left us and attached it to the back of his rucksack. Luke was thrilled, listening to it swinging to and fro for 5 hours. A true pilgrim! 😂
    As soon as we reached Os Castaños in the taxi it began raining, so we put our waterproof jackets on. This route is known as the Stone and Water route as you spend quite a lot of time walking beside a river. It was beautiful but would have been even more beautiful if the sun had been shining (we'd had to stop to put our waterproof trousers on, too, as it was raining quite heavily). A first breakfast was consumed along the way, just one of the pre-packed goodies, and Sid made a new friend 🧡
    After 6km or so, we reached Puente Arnelas, where we stopped for our second breakfast - this time, it was a tortilla bocadilla 😋😋😋. As we left the café, Luke and Ray walked across the road! They'd walked 13+km in the time it had taken us to walk 6.2km and eat breakfast 😂😂😂.
    We walked the rest of the way, about 11km, together, through small villages and past farms and lots of vines, presumably the Albariño grapes. The sun had turned up by now and it was a great walk.
    A stop for our celebratory beer, with about 4km to go, was a little previous, but it was very welcome, and a visit to a local church, where we lit a candle for Nigel, gave us a little rest before the last few kms.
    Conversation in the bar turned to buffs (the things you wear around your neck), but neither Luke nor Ray understood what I was talking about until Julie said, "buffs"! There followed quite a protracted discussion (still ongoing) about how we should pronounce the letter U in words such as buff, buffet, puff (as in pastry!🙄😂), Buffy (The Vampire Slayer) etc. It developed into the 'oo' sound as in book, look, etc. Of course, being a northerner, I'm absolutely correct in my pronunciations, but it's caused a lorra laffs!😂😂😂
    We're now in Vilanova de Arousa, in the most amazing apartment that overlooks the water, and it's from here we take another boat journey in the morning (Marcel can hardly contain his excitement 😀), this one for about 90 minutes.
    Luke and Ray have been foraging (hunter-gatherers, if you can say it correctly!) and we've enjoyed a delicious pasta pesto with chicken and salad (with wine, of course!)
    The boys can come again!
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  • Just too tired...😂

    22. maj 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Here are a few photos! We've had a fab, but long day, and I'm too tired to do anything but eat, drink and sleep 😂. I'll write something when I can!🙄😘

  • Not too tired now...

    22. maj 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Before I start, Ray has reminded me that the heat should now be off him re washing up liquid in the dishwasher. Mind you, he's been banned from the kitchen anyway, ("Result!,' says Ray!). This is because attention is now focussed on Luke, who walked ahead today listening to his BIAY and managed to miss the arrows, so ended up near some poly-tunnels, totally off course. He also broke a glass last night, leaving me to write a grovelling apology to our host 🙄😂😂. In the true spirit of the camino, though, he's been forgiven. 😂😘😘

    After a great night's sleep none of us really wanted to get up! Our apartment was just fab and a day off to relax would've been ideal. We weren't catching the Pilgrim boat until 1200 though, so we had a lazy morning eating a later breakfast (thank goodness for that bread!) and just taking our time. We watched an earlier boat depart and dolphins feeding and playing as the boat departed! That was really special! 👏👏👏
    After a quick walk around town (Vilanova wasn't that big) we collected our bags and headed to the Maritime station, just opposite our apartment. There were quite a few pilgrims already waiting so we hoped there were enough places on the boat! We were first in line though (that good old English tradition of queueing), and so first on board to claim seats up front so we could see out of the front of the boat.
    Everyone managed to pile onboard and it really was quite a packed boat, but sitting at the front was great because we were out of the water when he went fast 🙄😂. The skipper occasionally gave us information about where we were and pointed out the Twelve Stations of the Cross as we cruised past them - massive stone or wooden crosses on the shore front.
    The journey lasted about 90 minutes, so Marcel was in his element 😂. He loved it! Sid, too, felt quite at home, having arrived in Santiago de Compostela by stone boat centuries before 🙄😂.
    We reached Pontecesures and began the day's walk, first to Padron, just 3km away, for lunch, which was delicious and just what we needed for the remaining 13km to Teo. 😋 😀 😜 Sid had a go at the Padron peppers but didn't get the hot one! And we had chips. 😋😀👏
    The walk was, peculiarly, quite a difficult one. Not because it was uphill or rocky or boring - far from it - but because, by 1500 each day we'd usually stopped walking or weren't too far from our accommodation. Now, we were only just starting to walk, and it didn't feel right🙄😂.
    So on we trudged, and it really did feel like that at times, for another 3 1/2 hours to our next stay. It was a large stone built house owned by Restaurant St Martiño, so there was a ready supply of food and drink right next door 😋😀👏.
    After a refreshing beer (or other drink) we took showers and went back for food. Then it was straight to bed for what we hoped would be a good night's sleep. Ha ha ha - cue dog barking at 0200 that woke us all up, plus (speaking for myself) aching limbs and feet.
    Ah well, it was our penultimate night - we'd be reaching Santiago de Compostela the next day, so none of that mattered!
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  • Hallelujah!🍾🎊🎉🥳

    23. maj 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We're here! We've arrived! No more walking... (well🙄😂) Time to celebrate 🥳 🎉 🎊

    We left our little casa this morning at about 0915 after finishing off the bread that first Ray, then Julie, had carried, as well as the peach jam that I'd had in my backpack for a few days, plus a coke or a coffee - and we were ready for the last push of 14km 😀👏.
    We were a little off track, so rather than backtrack a km or so, we worked out how to rejoin the camino by moving forward and cutting off a few hundred metres. This worked, and we soon joined a steady stream of pilgrims making their final day's pilgrimage to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela 😀. (I've done this a few times - I think this is my 7th time arriving in Santiago and so 7th certificate 😱🙄😂).
    The path led us through small villages and woods until we reached O Milladoiro, just 8.5km from the cathedral, where we enjoyed a refreshing drink before heading off along the main road and under a motorway junction.
    If you look at picture 3, you'll see a long-distance view of the cathedral - our first sighting!
    Our walk took us through some more woodland, and all of a sudden, we were on the outskirts of the city. We followed the arrows until we reached the city centre, then bimbled slowly up the main street to the cathedral square. It was raining, of course!!!😂
    After taking the obligatory photo in front of the cathedral, we padded on down to the Pilgrim's Office where we collected our Credencials - our certificates to verify we'd walked from Porto/Vigo to Santiago, plus a distance certificate which stated that Julie and I had walked 280km (174 miles).
    Then it was time for food! The boys hadn't experienced a Menu del Dia yet (Pilgrim menus seem to have disappeared), so we all enjoyed a plate of 'sausage' (chorizo etc) then something with either rice or chips, followed by a Tiramisu and accompanied, of course, by a celebratory vino tinto, all for €15! The boys were impressed!
    We were able to make our way to our night's accommodation by then, so bimbled over to it. It was an apartment just 2 minutes or so from the cathedral and very reasonably priced. We should have known 🙄😂😂. The photos on Airbnb did it far too much justice! But the beds were clean, the shower was okaaayyyy, and it was only for one night.
    Whilst Julie and I showered, changed and rested, Ray and Luke foraged for a celebratory bottle of Cava, which we enjoyed before heading out for a glass of wine and something to eat. Then it was back for a good, long sleep.
    Although we weren't walking any more, we were still tired and aching!

    Fast forward to Friday and we made sure we were up and out to the English Pilgrim's Mass at the Passport Office at 1030. It was a really lovely service and Father Manny (who I think we've seen before!) spoke beautifully about 'life's camino', linking our shared experiences over the past couple of weeks (preparation, excitement, regret, love, hate etc) with what we experience through life. Julie was asked to read the Responsorial Psalm (Luke wanted to, but they already had a bloke reading 🙄), and we were invited to share our names, where we lived, and where we'd started walking, as well as any prayers we had. So, a great end to a fabulous camino. 🤗🤗🤗

    The boys are now on their way home, and Julie and I are in Monteforte de Lemos for a couple of days. We're walking again tomorrow, to where Nigel (Julie's brother) used to live. It'll be a bitter-sweet day, but hopefully one with lots of happy memories and a few good laughs.

    God speed, Nigel. We miss you!🧡🧡🧡
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  • The perfect ending...

    25. maj 2024, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Today, Julie and I walked just over 11km to visit Penelope in Castrotañe, a tiny hamlet of just a few houses, and where Nigel had lived whilst he was in Spain.
    It was a very lovely walk, which included Sid meeting a large slug, seeing a stork and her chicks, and hearing a cuckoo 🥰🥰🥰 (Nigel often duped us on the last leg of our Camino Frances, letting us believe we'd heard a cuckoo when it was, in reality, him hiding somewhere playing with his bird ID app🙄😂) - so hearing one today was amazing!
    Penelope was wonderful, and it was great to share memories of Nigel with her.
    So today was the perfect ending to our Portuguese Glamino and we're leaving with our hearts full 🧡❤️🧡.
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