• Florin Paun
  • Florin Paun

Pan-American Journey

An American odissey... A journey for the soul... Or an attempt to cross overland from southern Argentina to Halifax (Canada) in 10 month... Whatever you call it, this journey remains an adventure for a lifetime... Read more
  • Medellin

    March 16, 2025 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Medellin... We never thought we would ever arrive here, especially in our own van, in this city so infamous just two decades ago. In the 90s and early 2000s, this city of four million inhabitants was considered one of the most dangerous places in the world, a battlefield for various guerrilla groups, paramilitary forces and drug traffickers. But many things have changed for the better... In February 2013, the Urban Land Institute chose Medellín as the most innovative city in the world due to its progress in politics, education and social development. This city is absolutely fascinating, an amalgam of modernity and historical relics, a young and dynamic city that is reinventing itself, a city still bearing the traumas and stigmata of the massive violence of twenty years ago.Read more

  • Beyond Medellin

    March 20, 2025 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    After Tobias, who accompanied us for two weeks, left for Switzerland, we decided to stay three nights in a hotel in Medellin. And this is because the campsite in Medellin is far from the city and during the two days spent with Tobioas in Medellin we noticed that we had to waste too much time on the road. We chose the Hotel Bolivarianische Plaza, located in Laureales, a quiet and select neighborhood, with many restaurants frequented by locals. We left the caravan safely parked in the campsite Al Bosque, located about 25 km from the city center of Medellin.

    In Medellin, as almost everywhere in places that are becoming popular with mass tourism, there are many "greenhorn tourist traps", that is, places that offer banal services but where you pay a more inflated bill than in Western Europe! One such area is the El Poblado neighborhood, a very trendy neighborhood especially for backpackers with money, where on the first day spent with Tobias in Medellin we paid for three Japanese soups (absolutely banal, no comparison to the soups in Tokyo) the equivalent of 50 USD. The price is absurd (even experts are wrong sometimes!), when you consider that on our first day in Colombia we only paid the equivalent of 8 USD for a rotisserie chicken with vegetables, french fries and a 1.5 L bottle of lemonade.

    In Medellin we took part in a tour organized by a Spanish-speaking tour to the sights around the city. These tours in Spanish are much more authentic and cheaper than those in English. Plus you can practice your Spanish with tourists from all over Latin America... On March 19th we left Medellin and drove to the picturesque town of Santa Fe de Antioquia. There are few campsites or places where you can safely leave your camper in the area, but one such place is the Hotel with camping possibilities "Las Cabañas de Pino". Equipped with a swimming pool and all the necessary facilities, we spent two nights here visiting the sights in the surroundings.
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  • Caribbean Coast (1)

    March 27, 2025 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    On March 21, after traveling over 16,000 km, crossing 7 countries (Uruguay, Argentina, Chile, Bolivia, Peru, Ecuador and Colombia) in about 5 months, we arrived at the Caribbean Sea, in the small town of Necoclí. Seeing the Caribbean Sea, which, by the way, at least in this part has a color more of a greenish gray than the Caribbean blue that I often dreamed of when I planned this long journey, I felt an overwhelming emotion realizing that we had successfully crossed South America, from the now very distant Patagonia to the tropical landscapes with palm trees on endless beaches of the north of the continent. The Caribbean feeling is felt primarily not through the typical landscape, but through the dramatic change in climate. If until three weeks ago we actually used the heater for the last time at night, because we were still in the heights of the Andes, here, on the beaches of the Caribbean, the humid and overwhelming heat of the tropics is felt instantly, as soon as you open the door of the camper.

    Driving relatively slowly along the Pacific coast from Necoclí to Cartagena, we spent the night several times in campsites or hotels located right on the beach. Once we arrived near Cartagena, we decided to take a break from the expedition and stayed three nights at the upmarket Aura Hotel Baru. After crossing the entire continent, three days of doing nothing is good!

    As many of you probably know, although they have a land border, there is no road connection between Colombia and Panama. The Pan-American Highway is interrupted for about 80 km, unfortunately, this relatively modest distance requires complicated and financially expensive logistics with naval transport... The Ro/Ro ship from Cartagena (Colombia) to Colon (Panama) is scheduled for April 14 (the camper is sent by ship, we have to take the plane), we hope to go through all the customs formalities well and leave for Panama on time.

    The route from Popayan to Cartagena, you can see here: https://mapy.com/de/zakladni?planovani-trasy&am…
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  • Caribbean Coast (2)

    April 3, 2025 in Colombia ⋅ 🌬 29 °C

    For the second time during this fantastic Pan-American trip we are temporarily "blocked". The departure of the ship that was supposed to transport our camper from Colombia to Panama has been postponed for the third time, we are only scheduled for April 21st. In about three weeks... Unfortunately, the departure of the RoRo ship also coincides with the Easter holidays, this coincidence may delay the departure even more. Before departure, two checks must be carried out (at the port authorities and at the anti-drug police) which, although we have appointments, can theoretically be postponed again...

    We left visiting Cartagena, one of the most beautiful cities in northern Colombia, for the period before leaving for Panama. We scheduled (although we wished we hadn't stayed so long in Cartagena) a whole week in Cartagena, in case we had to react quickly to the requirements of the port authorities and to any changes in the transport ship's schedule. At the moment we are staying on the Caribbean coast in various locations, the atmosphere is layed back, there are many small resorts, forgotten fishing villages... Despite the fact that we can't leave for Panama as soon as we had hoped, it should be clear that it's not the worst place to wait two or three weeks! :)
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  • Tayrona National Park

    April 9, 2025 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Tayrona National Park is definitely in the top 5 attractions to see in Colombia. It is a mixed national park, both terrestrial and marine, with great biodiversity, as well as an undeniable Caribbean flair. Although the park is on the "must see" list of tourist groups that arrive here but also of locals coming from Bogota or Medellin, the location has numerous possibilities to escape from the well-known and frequently visited routes. Here you can walk for hours on deserted beaches or listen to the sounds of the jungle without seeing other people. We stayed in this wonderful national park for six days.

    Unfortunately, I have to tell you some bad news. We are currently seriously "stuck" in Cartagena, northern Colombia. The ship that was supposed to transport our camper from Colombia to Panama and was scheduled to leave on April 21st was simply canceled. However, we have a reliable port agent and are looking for other options, the best would be to place Nemo on the next ship that will navigate the Cartagena-Panama route. Another option would be Colombia-Mexico (in the Yucatan province; however, it also has many inconveniences). I hope we will have good news soon!
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  • Cartagena (1)

    April 16, 2025 in Colombia ⋅ 🌬 32 °C

    Unfortunately, we don't have good news regarding the departure from Colombia to Panama. For about two months, there has been absolute chaos with the departures of RoRo ships from Cartagena, ships that used to leave regularly for Panama once every two weeks have been canceled... That's why we have to stay (at least for now) in Colombia. We have a reliable port agent, Ms. Rodriguez, we were hoping that she could help us leave Colombia by sea as soon as possible. But so far, all we could get is a reservation for the RoRo ship only on May 27th... That is, in about 6 weeks... and only if there are no unexpected cancellations... :( We will probably have to change our travel route, because as time goes by it seems unrealistic to reach Halifax in Canada by land in September. We will come back with details.

    Of course, despite this logistical difficulty, we will try to make an alternative program while we wait for the sea departure from Colombia. As we suspected and wrote in the blog at the beginning of this overland journey, although we have made many preparations for this trip, it will remain an adventure! An adventure that probably few people have the privilege of experiencing at least once in their lives...

    In anticipation of the Easter holidays, we rented an apartment in the center of Cartagena. The apartment has all the necessary amenities (including AC!) and also offers the possibility of safe parking, right in the old city center. Cartagena is a former colonial city, the meeting place of three types of cultures: the local natives, the conquistadors and colonialists from overseas as well as the Africans brought against their will during the colonial period. That is why Cartagena has a strong Afro-Colombian character.
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  • Cartagena (2)

    April 21, 2025 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    We have been in Cartagena for ten days, unfortunately so far we have not found another possibility to leave Colombia a little earlier, the reserved date is May 27th... But we were hoping to find a way earlier, we also contacted other port agencies. Until 2015 there was a normal ferryboat line between Colombia and Panama, the crossing was efficient and fast, the transfer back then cost only about 10%(!) of what it costs now, but unfortunately this line was closed...

    On April 23rd we planned to fly to San Andres Island, an island in the Caribbean Sea that belongs to Colombia, but is located near Nicaragua. We booked the flight in such a way that we could return to Cartagena in one day, if there is a new possibility to leave earlier. This island (along with Providencia, located 2 hours away by motorboat) are excellent destinations for scuba diving and snorkelling. In addition, they are recognized as true tropical paradises without being degraded by mass tourism. Unfortunately, having our camper in Colombia, we cannot temporarily leave Colombia without Nemo the Blue Bus (customs regulations), so unfortunately we cannot make an alternative program that goes beyond the Colombian borders.
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  • San Andres Island

    April 25, 2025 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    On April 23rd we flew to the island of San Andres... San Andrés is a coral island located in the Caribbean Sea, about 200 kilometers off the Atlantic coast of Nicaragua. Along with the nearby islands of Providencia and Santa Catalina, they are also known as the Raizal Islands. There are many small hotels, restaurants and souvenir shops on San Andreas, but no monstrous infrastructure has been created here to be a magnet for mass tourism. Most visitors who arrive here are from Colombia and other South American countries. The island retains an authentic Caribbean character. Although the island is relatively small (12.5 km long and only 3 km wide), it is large enough to find places where you can enjoy nice and uncrowded beaches. If you like tropical landscapes, without unnecessary glitz and ostentation, then San Andres is a tropical island that you should definitely visit. Despite some coral damage through global warming, the coral reefs adjacent to the island offer excellent opportunities for diving and snorkeling.

    Good news regarding the departure to Panama. After an intensive search (which Rahel did on the internet!; the port agent did not know about this ship, she only offered us the variant of May 27th...), we found a Norwegian Ro/Ro ship that will depart for Panama on May 11th. The ship was originally announced for May 7th, but was postponed by a few days... The port agent is currently doing all the necessary formalities for the departure. I hope that this ship will not be postponed indefinitely or even canceled, because otherwise we will have to give up Central America, which would massively disrupt the schedule of this exceptional journey along the Pan-American Highway...
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  • Providencia Island

    April 29, 2025 in Colombia ⋅ 🌬 28 °C

    Providencia Island... A volcanic island located less than 100 km from San Andres Island. To get here from Cartagena you absolutely have to fly to San Andres first and then take a plane to Providencia. Wow! A tropical island that really suits our taste. Quiet, wide beaches, sometimes deserted and not invaded by the type of tourist who consumes Latin pop and ethanol in excess. The traffic on the island is practically limited to scooters (we rented one too), if you go around the island by scooter (approx. 15 km) you will probably see no more than three cars coming from the opposite direction. The largest hotels have no more than 15 rooms. In addition, there is the possibility of diving at about a third of the prices in the Galapagos Islands! If anyone is still wondering why Providencia is so untouristy despite its exceptional Caribbean beauty, there are several aspects to consider: 1) to get here from Europe or the US you have to change at least three planes, complicated logistics. 2) there are no large, concrete bunker-type hotels. 3) there is no concept of beach partying/drinking until dawn. 4) the lack of infrastructure for the masses means the island is not on the radar of major tour operators.

    Because we need to quickly return to Cartagena if necessary (Nemo's departure to Panama is currently scheduled for May 12th, but RoRo ships never have reliable schedules), we only stayed on Providencia Island for three nights. But this island is a fantastic place where you can spend two weeks without getting bored... The highlight of our stay in Providencia was diving with many reef sharks around us. A unique and absolutely incredible experience!
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  • Back to San Andres

    May 2, 2025 in Colombia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    On April 30th we returned to San Andres, where we spent three nights before returning to Cartagena for good. As a conclusion to the ten days spent in these true Caribbean paradises (San Andres and Providencia Islands), I can say that if you want to see authentic Caribbean places off the beaten tourist trail, these places can be highly recommended.

    In the meantime, we are back in Cartagena, where we are staying in a rented apartment, and Nemo is safely parked in the courtyard of the building. The good news is that on May 15th we have the final confirmation for the Cartagena - Panama transport ship. I must say, however, that organizing this transport cost us a lot of time and nerves. In fact, Rahel did a better job than the port agent, finding with a lot of work on the internet, with 100 emails, 20 phone calls and endless patience a Norwegian company that has very regular connections with Panama and that the port agent did not even consider. There were some difficult moments when we even contemplated the possibility of returning to Uruguay or even to Europe, because finding a viable Cartagena - Panama ship seemed impossible... But ok, I hope to leave Colombia for good on May 15th, unfortunately at least 5 weeks later than we would have wanted and planned. At the moment we are busy with some absurd logistics, because the camper has to be sent almost empty (rules..., transport from Europe to Uruguay was allowed with clothes and many other personal items). Yes, truly an adventure! :)
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  • Bye bye Colombia!

    May 14, 2025 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Dear friends, after about ten weeks in Colombia and more than six months in South America, it is time to say goodbye to this fascinating continent. I have no words to describe the fantastic experiences and extraordinary moments we have had in the last six months. In total, we have drived our camper 17,638 km in South America, visited 7 countries and drove 376 hours (average speed 47 km/h). Our Pan-American journey continues with Central America...

    Tomorrow, May 15, we will fly to Panama, and Nemo, the Blue Bus, will leave for Panama this evening on the vehicle transport ship Porgy. We are a little tired after the work and nerves spent in the last weeks; we have been intensively looking for a possibility to transport Nemo to Panama. Not only is it not easy to find a ship, but also to avoid the numerous traps... Well, now everything is fine.
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  • Panama City

    May 19, 2025 in Panama ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    On May 15th we finally arrived in Panama. Only us, Nemo arrived two days later on a transport ship. He is now in the Port of Manzanillo from where it must be released through other bureaucratic formalities that consume not only time but also money... The sea transport of the vehicle is the most unpleasant and expensive part of this journey. We hope that in a few days we will release Nemo from the port authorities and continue our journey overland.

    Panama City seems quite strange at first glance, a kind of hybrid between the US, the Gulf states and the Latin American world. The currency is USD, and many of the financial policies of the services are American, for example, the prices of restaurants in tourist areas are displayed without taxes and without mandatory tips. Of course, if you use local bodegas or fast food chains, these policies do not apply. The skyscrapers, the numerous malls and the highways of Panama City remind me of Kuwait and Qatar. The atmosphere of the streets is Latin American, although the people seem much less communicative and talkative than Colombians or Argentines. Outside the cities you are practically in the jungle. A land of contrasts between skyscraper skylines and dense tropical forests...
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  • Colon & around

    May 22, 2025 in Panama ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    After visiting Panama City (located on the Pacific coast), while we were still waiting for the formalities to be completed for the pickup of the motorhome in the port of Manzanillo (near Colon, on the Caribbean Sea), we visited the excellently preserved Spanish colonial fortifications of Portobello and Castillo de San Lorenzo. Both fortifications are located near Colon.

    Two important logistical details: 1) although we have a van in the Caribbean, it is difficult to sleep in the car. The humid heat at night is sometimes unbearable. Room wit AC is almost a must. We will spend many nights in motels and hotels, which are abundant and have absolutely reasonable prices. In the mountainous areas you can camp without any problems, you are not exposed to intense heat. 2) although we had planned to end our overland journey in Halifax, Canada, we will probably stay in Central America until September-October and send the car to Europe from Vera Cruz (Mexico). Although the USA and Canada are also interesting, we will leave them for a later trip, now traveling more slowly through the Latin American world. Of course, a lot can change in the coming months, but for now this is how we plan our trip.

    Finally! Nemo passed all the customs formalities and we took him back on May 22nd. It's wonderful to have our own van, it's wonderful to drive through little-known worlds, we're living the most beautiful adventure we've ever imagined... Sometimes we feel like two teenagers running away from home on the Panamericana...
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  • Misty mountains, deserted beaches

    May 28, 2025 in Panama ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    We spent the last week hiking through the abundant nature around the small town of Santa Fe and then exploring the beaches at Punta Duarte. In Santa Fe, the mountain climate makes it easy to sleep in the camper, so we camped here on the property of the hotel of the same name. In Punta Duarte, we found a great little hotel next to a deserted beach. This place, which can only be reached by a stretch of unpaved road, is a real gem, far from the masses of tourists who love summer activities. Although the hotel is fully booked in high season now, in the off-season it had only us as guests.

    Unfortunately, we must mention the first losses recorded through theft. The caravan's tracker, which automatically records the position but also all the engine operating parameters and which can be accessed online from Switzerland, was most likely stolen during transport from Cartagena to Panama. I say probably because I don't have clear evidence, but the last data transmitted was from the port of Cartagena, exactly the night the caravan was moved by a dock worker from the port parking lot onto the Ro/Ro ship. I only noticed after more than a week that it was missing, it was well "hidden" under the cockpit... In addition, in Santa Fe a teenager probably stole my "Bolivian" baseball cap. After the rain I hung it on a wire to dry. Although it was just am old cap, for me it had sentimental value, being the gift a campsite owner gave me when we parted ways in La Paz. :)
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  • Hiking & Nature in Boquete

    June 2, 2025 in Panama ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    The mountain town of Boquete (altitude 1200 m) has a wonderful climate, where you can escape the sometimes oppressive heat of the coast and lowlands. The town has many attractions around: waterfalls, bird watching (including hummingbirds), coffee plantations and hiking trails through the mountains. During the four days spent in Bouquete, we took many walks on jungle-covered mountains and enjoyed the cool nights, meaning you can sleep without any problems in the camper.

    On June 3, at the time of publishing this step, we had already left Panama and were in Costa Rica. The two weeks spent in Panama were very interesting, although it is not on the list of well-known tourist destinations, this country offers some fine historical attractions, but above all the possibility of contact with an incredibly varied nature and fantastic tropical jungles. The nature is amazing, in many places in Panama after leaving the city you are practically in the jungle. The atmosphere here is international, there are many expats attracted to these places thanks to the low prices and high standard of living.

    The itinerary through Panama can be seen bellow:
    https://mapy.com/en/zakladni?planovani-trasy&am…
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  • Corcovado National Park

    June 7, 2025 in Costa Rica ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    On June 3rd we left Panama and here we are in Costa Rica. Crossing the border between the two countries is relatively quick and efficient, with the formalities taking about an hour. As our first destination in Costa Rica, we chose Corcovado National Park. This national park is located on the Pacific coast, about 150 km from the Panama border, and is recognized as a place of exceptional wilderness and beauty. We had planned to stay here for three days, but finding the opportunity to rent a small villa in the middle of the jungle at a price that in Europe you rent a room in a hotel with lots of noisy beer drinkers and poorly behaved children in the pool, we decided to stay here for no less than six nights. Being in the off-season, we were practically alone, with four of the six nights spent here being two other visitors in another villa. I have no words to describe how peaceful, beautiful and wild this national park is. Truly a dream place for nature lovers!

    There are miles of trails around the resort, through the surrounding jungle. Unfortunately, or fortunately, depending on your adventurous spirit and physical abilities, the trails are very poorly maintained (the last maintenance dates back to before the coronavirus outbreak). On most of the trails you feel like Indiana Jones, and the risk of losing your bearings in the dense rainforest is extremely high. We used a Garmin Adventure GPS to navigate efficiently, this small waterproof device being an exceptional tool for serious hiking in areas with poor orientation. As usual when possible, we try to do our own activities and trails, without guides or organized groups. There are also organized group tours in the national park, but apart from the fact that they have exorbitant prices, I don't think they can show you more things in a few hours than our intense and long hikes.

    The fauna we observed is unusually rich for a tropical rainforest. Although we weren't able to photograph them, we were able to observe rare species such as the jaguarundi (a species of wild cat), the kinkajou, the squirrel frog, and the giant cane toad.
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  • Parque nacional Los Quetzales

    June 11, 2025 in Costa Rica ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Costa Rica is a dream destination for those who love nature, spectacular and wild landscapes, as well as adventurous jungle treks. Despite its relatively small size (about 50,000 km2), Costa Rica is one of the countries with the highest biodiversity in all of Latin America. Interestingly, since 1948, Costa Rica has abolished its army, and the money saved has been spent on education. Costa Rica is the first tropical country to stop and reverse deforestation. The country is very clean, incredibly clean compared to other Latin American countries. And another important detail: according to statistics, this country spends about 6.9% of its budget on education, compared to a global average of 4.4%. Yes, indeed, the fact that a lot is spent on education is evident when you travel through Costa Rica.

    Los Quetzals National Park covers only 50 square kilometers and has limited facilities, a small ranger station and a single, extremely mountainous and narrow main road. It is one of the best places to see the magnificent quetzal bird, which lives in the mountain cloud forests. We spent three nights in this magnificent location, doing beautiful hiking despite the rain that disrupted our plans for several hours each day. We were lucky enough to even see four quetzals (two females, two males), but taking a picture of them was absolutely impossible. The greatest reward was the experience of hiking on mountain trails through the cloud forests, contact with absolutely fantastic nature, undisturbed by mass tourism.
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  • Cartago & around

    Jun 15–18, 2025 in Costa Rica ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

    Costa Rica continues to delight us with spectacular natural landscapes, jungles of the most varied types and an exceptional biodiversity. But what I find truly fantastic and which cannot be captured in photography are the interactions with the people. There is a big difference between the restrained coldness of Western European human interactions and this authenticity, talkativeness and spontaneous warmth of the inhabitants here. Every country or region of the world has a slogan. Sometimes it's just an empty phrase or some kind of slogan that has no connection to reality. Costa Rica's slogan is "pura vida", meaning pure life. Wow! It's not a slogan, it's a way of life, a reality that can be observed in the people I met here. They intensely enjoy the generous nature around them, the simple and beautiful things in life, their family, the friends with whom they spend a lot of time outdoors. Of all the countries we've visited so far in Latin America, Costa Rica is the country where we would imagine retiring as expats when we retire...

    Next to the park where the ruins of the Church of Ujarras are located, there is a parking lot guarded at night by a security service. If you wish, you can stay overnight in a caravan, there are no restrictions here. We spent two nights here. In the morning we woke up to the sound of birds singing. A phenomenal place, far from the daily hustle and bustle of earning money to pay taxes and rent... There are also a few houses around the parking lot, a few residents who saw us waved and smiled at us, An elderly gentleman with a bicycle asked us where we came from and how our trip was so far. He wished us a good trip, it was obvious that our presence did not bother him, on the contrary. Wow! In Switzerland (and not only!) if you stop at a so-called "private" parking lot, a restaurant for example, a stupid owner immediately appears, he either wants money or wants to throw you out immediately. In its ignorance, the Western world believes that if you own properties you are rich and happy...
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  • San Jose & around

    June 18, 2025 in Costa Rica ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    On June 18th we visited San Jose, the capital of Costa Rica. While it is by no means my favorite city in Latin America, it is not a place where you will be bored if you have a day or two to spare. The city is clean, has a neat appearance, and is clearly more upscale than other cities in this part of the world. Before visiting the capital of Costa Rica, we spent a day in Tapanti National Park. Although we did not see any spectacular animals in this national park (a tapir on the side of the road while driving to the park), we did take a challenging hike and saw many beautiful birds, insects, and plants.Read more

  • Sloths Paradise

    June 21, 2025 in Costa Rica ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    In the department of Limon, located on the Caribbean Sea, we found a fantastic place with extraordinary people. This place is not on the list of the big tour operators or in Lonely Planet, because then it would probably collapse due to mass tourism... It is a private natural park with a house, a large terrace that also serves as a bird observatory and a parking space that can accommodate three campers. It is a fantastic location, which certainly earns a place in the top 10 locations that we liked most so far along the entire length that weˋve traveled... In the private rainforest, large enough to get lost, you can walk as much as you want. The garden of the house has a lot of flowers, fruits, avocados, a beehive and many fruit trees. Since many of the trees here are the favorite food source of sloths, these slow and fascinating animals can be frequently seen around. Additionally, in the garden with tropical plants and ponds we saw and photographed numerous species of tropical frogs. The photos & videos speak for themselves!Read more

  • Vulcano Arenal & Monte Verde

    June 24, 2025 in Costa Rica ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

    Leaving San Jose and heading towards the Nicaraguan border, we passed Arenal Volcano and Monte Verde, two places heavily promoted by travel agencies and very popular with backpackers and organized tours. La Fortuna, a town that lives only from tourism, so much so that the locals complain that you can't get a coffee cheaper than three dollars in a local bar, didn't make a good impression on me. Everywhere there were local travel agencies that do nothing but gather clients for tours that they don't organize themselves, of course for a commission. This is Costa Rica of the "get your guide" type, not the "discover yourself" type. We admired the surroundings a bit and moved on...

    The points of interest on this stage were the Hermosa hot springs (a favorite place for Costa Ricans, especially on weekends), a visit to a Swiss cow farm near Lake Arenal, and a hike in a “cloud forest” near Monte Verde. Unfortunately (we have bad luck with volcanoes!) the weather did not allow us to climb Arenal Volcano. Of course, if the weather had been favorable, we would have climbed it with Garmin GPS alone (it is not a very difficult climb), not with groups of 15 selfie-taking snapshooters.
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  • Pacific beaches & departure

    June 29, 2025 in Costa Rica ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    The last area visited in Costa Rica were the Pacific beaches on the western side of the Nicoya Peninsula. Without a doubt, very beautiful places, vast beaches, which despite the numerous resorts and promoted water sports maintain an authentic character. The area is very quiet and very safe, you can camp near the beach without any problem (camping on the beach is strictly prohibited in Costa Rica). It should be noted that there are numerous expat communities, especially from the USA. In some supermarkets (Walmart for example) over 50% of the buyers seem to be expats.

    The last stop in Costa Rica was at Camping Cañas Castillo, where we spent two nights before crossing the border into Nicaragua. Although we had heard a lot of stories about how difficult it is to cross the border with your own car in Nicaragua, we cannot confirm them. In 2 hours and a quarter we finished the formalities, the border officers were as professional and polite as possible. A worker applying the entrance fee even charged us less (5 instead of 15 USD), saying that "the truck fee is 15 dollars, but your truck is small, so we only charge 5 dollars, like for a pick up truck". At the time of publishing this step, we are already in Granada, Nicaragua. Without a doubt, a very interesting city, in a country that, although devastated for decades by civil war, has made exceptional progress in terms of safety and tourist infrastructure. Two years ago we would not have thought that we would be visiting Nicaragua with our own expedition vehicle.
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  • Granada

    July 1, 2025 in Nicaragua ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Dear friends, here we are in Nicaragua, the tenth country visited on our Pan-American trip! The first city we visited in Nicaragua was Granada, a colonial city with lots of interesting buildings, a lovely market and a pedestrian area with numerous restaurants and bars, it clearly exceeded our expectations.

    Granada, the third largest city in Nicaragua, is located about 50 km south of the country's capital, Managua, on the western shore of Lake Nicaragua. The city is built in colonial style and has a fascinating history. It was founded in 1524 by the Spanish conquistador Francisco Hernández de Córdoba. During the colonial period, Granada was one of the most important ports in Central America, with trade links to Cartagena, Guatemala, San Salvador, Panama and Peru. Transport routes for this growing trade crossed Lake Nicaragua and further along the Río San Juan to the Caribbean. Several attacks by pirates, including the famous Henry Morgan, also left their mark on the city...
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  • Managua and Esteli

    July 3, 2025 in Nicaragua ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Nicaragua, the tenth country we visited during our Pan-American trip, surprised us both very pleasantly. Very good roads, two very interesting cities with colonial architecture and a complicated historical past (Granada and Leon), very good food and beer at absolutely moderate prices, plus we met many welcoming people who were curious to interact with tourists.

    From Granada, on July 1st, we took an organized day trip to Managua, the capital of Nicaragua. We chose to take a tour rather than go on our own, because the attractions in Managua are very spread out and it is difficult to park a van. Since we were the only tourists registered for this trip, it was, so to speak, a private trip. The guide, Freder, is a very knowledgeable guy, who explained to us in detail the history of the city and the revolution that ended the Somoza regime. Returning to Granada, we took a short city tour with Freder the next day (it was a bonus he offered). Heading towards Leon, we chose the mountain route that passes through Esteli, a town very famous for its cigar industry. Here we visited a cigar factory, not with an organized tour, but simply by asking at the entrance of a factory if they could give us a short tour. The tour was free and I can say that it was an interesting experience.
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  • Leon & crossing Honduras

    July 8, 2025 in Honduras ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    Leon, a city with imposing colonial architecture and also the capital of the Sandinista revolution, has been Granada's great rival throughout history. Granada is considered to have had a conservative policy, while Leon had a liberal one. We stayed in Leon for three nights, with our caravan in a parking lot with water and toilets. We really liked the city, as did Nicaragua, which we considered a surprise that exceeded our expectations. Going from Leon to the Pacific coast, which is only twenty kilometers away, we spent our last night in this country in a cozy hotel on Las Penitas beach.

    On July 7th, right after breakfast we left the picturesque Las Penitas and headed for the Honduran border, located about 80 kilometers away. It was a busy day, at the Honduran border... We arrived around 12:00 and we only crossed into Honduras at 17:00. We were not scanned suplimentary (a scanner search can lead to at least two if not three hours of additional delay) but it was a busy day, among other things a group with many people belonging to the "traveler to the land of dreams USA" type clearly slowed down the flow of travelers through customs. First impressions of Honduras are rather unpleasant. There is quite a lot of garbage and plastic deposited along the roads. This reminded me of Peru, yes Peru without tourists, in Cuzco and Machu Pichu everything is cleaned. We stayed overnight in a hotel in the city of Choluteca, 40 kilometers from the border we had just crossed.

    The only major tourist attraction we wanted to visit in Honduras was the excellent Mayan site of Copan. But realizing after research that the 500+ kilometers to Copan for various reasons could not be done in less than 3 days, we decided to cross the border with El Salvador after only one night in Honduras, and possibly see Copan as an excursion from Guademala, near whose border it is located. So on July 8th we left for the border with El Salvador which we crossed in only 75 minutes. Here we met the most efficient and polite border officers so far. So, I can say that our experience in Honduras is limited to one night in a hotel and a distance of about 130 km between the Nicaraguan border and El Salvador. Maybe we will return from the north so we can visit Copan.
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