From Mendoza to Santiago de Chile
20 december 2024, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C
The road from Mendoza, the Argentine wine capital, to Santiago de Chile was absolutely spectacular, with many unique mountain landscapes and other interesting sights. Although we had initially planned to cover the distance of about 370 km in one day, we covered the distance in a day and a half, visiting attractions along the way and spending the night on the mountain pass. Unfortunately, although I saw it for a few seconds while driving, I was unable to take a clear photo of Mount Aconcagua (6961 m), the highest mountain in South America, which is located in Argentina, very close to the border with Chile.
The exact route can be found at the link:
https://de.mapy.cz/zakladni?planovani-trasy&…Läs mer
Santiago de Chile
22 december 2024, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C
We spent December 21st and 22nd visiting Santiago de Chile, which, like many places in the world, is getting ready for the Christmas holidays. We really enjoyed the cosmopolitan city, with its many cultural and historical attractions. In addition, a visit to the Costanera, the tallest building in South America, was one of the highlights of our visit here. Coming from the south, from the now distant Patagonia, we had to adapt again to the heavy traffic and the atmosphere of the metropolis. It is worth noting that Chile, being such a long country, has many climatic zones. If in the extreme south of Patagonia the climate is of the arctic type, and further north we could visit the temperate rainforests. In the Santiago de Chile region, the climate is dry Mediterranean, and to the north, there is one of the driest places on earth, the Atacama Desert.
To all those who follow us closely on this fantastic and daring journey, we wish you a Merry Christmas and much success in everything you do!... And remember:: “The secret of happiness is freedom... and the secret of freedom is courage.” (Thucydides)
.Läs mer

Florin Paun
Seeing this type of staircase very often in South American buildings reminded me of "Historia de una escalera", a play by Antonio Buero Vallejo. The play analyzes Spanish society through the neighborhood of a staircase. The main themes are individual frustration and love between young people. Although the desire for social affirmation of the inhabitants of a building is very strong, they do not find solutions to improve their social condition. Two generations later, the same unfulfilled dreams are still spoken on the steps of this staircase...

Florin Paun
"Pisco Sour" is the national cocktail of Chile. The base spirit is Pisco, a grape brandy named after the city of Pisco (in Peru). The drink is prepared from Pisco, lemon or lime juice, sugar syrup and egg white, mixed with ice and strained into the glass. The other cocktail, "Araucano", the orange one, is also a very "South American" type of cocktail.
Valparaiso & Punta de Choros
26 december 2024, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
We left Santiago de Chile on December 23, choosing Valparaiso as our first stop on our way north. Although practically in all the brochures and tourist information Valparaiso is considered in the "Top 10 must see in Chile", in my opinion this is exaggerated. Valparaiso is a port city, much dirtier compared to other cities visited so far in Chile, unfortunately also known for its high crime rate. During our visit to the city, we were warned by the locals several times that we should be careful of pickpockets and other categories of scammers. Although the open-air museum represented by the rich graffiti ornaments and the view from the adjacent hills are interesting, this object can be visited quickly in an afternoon. For security reasons we chose to stay at a campsite in Laguna Verde (a seaside village near Valparaiso) and visit the city by bus.
The second stop going north was at the "Reserva National Pinguino de Humboldt" on Damas Island (near Punta del Choro). We took a three-hour tour by motorboat. The trip was excellent, we were able to see sea lions, Humboldt penguins, various species of birds and in addition, many species of cacti and succulent plants. The photos speak for themselves...Läs mer

Florin Paun
Some graffitis are very humorous, for example this one: "It's forbidden to fall in love with the driver"! :)

Florin Paun
The explosion of colors of the graffiti contrasts strongly with the mood of the character on the left of the image. Although absolutely fine during the day, this labyrinth of streets whose walls are covered in graffiti is not the place to walk at night.

Florin Paun
Where there are highways in Chile, they are in excellent condition. To use them, you have to pay tolls (clearly lower than in Italy or France). On the other hand, fuel is clearly cheaper than in the EU, a liter of diesel costs about 1 USD.
Atacama Desert
29 dec.–1 jan. 2025, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
Continuing north towards Antofagasta, the landscape gradually becomes more and more arid, eventually giving way to the driest place on the planet (except some Antarctic regions), the Atacama Desert. The dimensions are enormous, this desert stretching over a 1,600 kilometer long strip of land west of the Andes Mountains, covering an area of more than 120,000 km2. Most of the Atacama Desert is on a plateau at about 2000 m altitude, so daytime temperatures do not exceed 30 degrees, which makes driving during the day not very unpleasant. The landscapes are in places monotonous, in places absolutely enchanting. In some regions it is so dry that not even a cactus or a fragile succulent can grow, all you see around is sand and dry stone.
We wish you a happy New Year and many beautiful achievements in 2025!
The exact route can be viewed here:
https://de.mapy.cz/zakladni?planovani-trasy&…Läs mer

Florin Paun
Roadside shrines are common in South America. Here is a shrine to Saint Lawrence. Sometimes memorial altars or crosses are planted on the site of people who have died in traffic accidents. Unfortunately, they are very numerous...

Florin Paun
Museo Ferroviario, free entry, but to get here you have to walk on an unpaved track for several kilometers. This open-air museum is located on the site of a former steam locomotive depot. These trains were used to transport various minerals extracted from the Atacama Desert.
San Pedro de Atacama
31 december 2024, Chile ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C
San Pedro de Atacama is a large village, which has several tourist attractions around and has become a magnet for tourists and backpackers. Arriving here after enjoying the solitude of the Patagonian landscape and seeing the hustle and bustle of tourists looking for souvenirs or excursions to all kinds of "objectives" you have the impression that you have landed in a very strange place. Although some attractions, such as the "Valley of the Moon" are indeed excellent, there is also an abundance of pseudo-objectives. We spent a night here, after visiting the Valley of the Moon the previous afternoon. The next day we left...
Almost every day of our fantastic trip we encountered extraordinary examples of humanity and kindness. For example, at an entrance to a national park we were left with 10,000 pesos (approx. 10 USD) to pay for our tickets in cash, and credit cards or US dollars were not accepted. A Chilean tourist I had a conversation with while standing in line paid us the difference and did not accept a 10 USD bill as change. Instead, he said goodbye with a hug and wished us a safe trip! Another example. January 1, 2025 at a truck stop. While using the washing machine, I talked to a driver about our trip route and about Chile. Before the 30-ton tanker truck set off, the Chilean driver came to our camper and offered us a bottle of wine. I don't know what the future will hold, but so far, we have encountered fantastic examples of human kindness.Läs mer

Florin Paun
In the distance, the now inactive Licancabur volcano, almost 6000 m high. The photo is taken from approximately 2800 m.

Florin Paun
In this larger village that lives off tourism, I had the feeling that I had landed in Southeast Asia 20 years ago. Comparing certain prices of different tourist attractions from various sources, it is noticeable that they have increased exponentially with the number of people led here by tour operators or "trip advisor" type tourism. For example, a banal hot spring where you could bathe for free ten years ago, is now presented as a "spa" but without major infrastructure improvements and has an aberrant entrance price of 35 USD/Person. Of course, we did not go there!
North Chile
6 januari 2025, Chile ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C
We spent the last few days in Arica, the northernmost city in Chile, located on the Pacific coast, and in Putre, a city located at an altitude of 3700 m, at the entrance to the Lauca National Park, towards the border with Bolivia. One of the main topics we dealt with was planning the route that would follow. The political situation in Bolivia and Peru is currently ok, so after consulting various sources, we decided to go on January 7 from Putre to the border with Bolivia, traveling through Bolivia for about 400 km to La Paz and then to Lake Titicaca. From there we continue to Peru.
It is worth noting that such our journey has nothing in common with staying by the pool in a tourist resort, the unexpected and adventurous element being omnipresent. Documentation and permanent research work are needed. When I think of certain tourist resorts where a hotel representative accompanies not particullary intelligent consumers to make sure they can find their bungalow...Läs mer

Florin Paun
It's hard to say whether the many natural resources found in Chile are a benefit or more of a problem for Chile. Here is a mining village, located on the coast. On the right are the ore ships, waiting to be loaded with ore. What is not visible in the photo is the dirt and garbage thrown around.

Florin Paun
A city located on the Pacific coast and surrounded by the Atacama Desert. The roads are absolutely incredible. The mountains and massive sand dunes that surround the city make the location truly spectacular.

Florin Paun
The entire city developed around the Santa Laura salt mine and operated for about 100 years, from 1862 to 1960, when it was abandoned. The city is impressive, you can walk through administrative buildings, people's homes, the market, the theater, the church and of course the abandoned industrial buildings. Saltpeter or sodium nitrate is the chemical compound with the formula NaNO3. It is used for the production of fertilizers, pyrotechnics, explosives, glass and ceramic enamels, food preservatives and even solid rocket propellant. It was extracted on a large scale for these purposes.
Crossing the Andes to Bolivia
7 januari 2025, Bolivia ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C
On January 7, we left the small town of Putre and passing through Lauca National Park we crossed the border with Bolivia. The highest point of mountain pass on is located at over 4700 m altitude. The landscapes are fantastic, but the effects of the altitude were felt by us as well as by Nemo. Everything was ok, Nemo behaved excellently and after about 2 hours and about 50 km driven at 4500+ m we descended again to "only" ca. 3600 m (height of the Bolivian plateau). It should be mentioned that the camper's software has been adapted to facilitate normal operation in the rarefied air of the Andean passes.
But perhaps harder than driving through the Andean passes seems to me to be driving through Bolivia. The road traffic here is chaotic, in some places very impulsive and careless. Unfortunately, very different from what I had observed so far in the other three South American countries visited. We finally made it safely to La Paz…Läs mer

Florin Paun
1. There is a pedestrian crossing on the highway, because the pedestrians do not use the bridge (over the highway). 2. One car drives on the wrong side, ok, on the emergency line. 3. The pedestrians in some places have to climb the fence between the highway's lines. 4. The highway runs through the middle of the town. 5 On the emergency line you can go shopping.

Florin Paun
We spent the night from January 7 to 8 at Colibri Camping, La Paz. During the night, a heavy rain softened the ground considerably. An old caravan belonging to a Spanish family got stuck in the muddy ground. We lent them our sand boards and helped them free themselves from the muddy ground. Wow, those people were very happy! We parted hugging... When we were getting ready for the expedition and buying the sandboards, I said to Rahel, "I hope we don't have to use them, but I'm sure one day we'll help another camp with them".
La Paz
10 januari 2025, Bolivia ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
We spent the last four days in La Paz. Because a large group (no less than 18 campers - organized group "Panam Tours") was going to arrive the next day at the campsite where we spent the first night, we decided to move to another campsite. Also with the help of "IOverlander" (one of the best apps ever!) we found a small campsite (Colinas Camping, 5 places) with exceptional facilities. The atmosphere here is also very pleasant, the other overlanders are very interesting people, so we chose to stay here for four nights. We visited the city of La Paz extensively. I must admit that on the one hand it is a fascinating city with many sights to visit, on the other hand it is a very chaotic and polluted city...
Bolivia is facing a terrible diesel crisis. We planned the route through Bolivia in such a way that we would only drive 560 km with a car range of about 750 km. As a safety measure, we have a 10-liter container as a reserve. The next destination of our trip is Lake Titicaca, we plan to cross the border with Peru through the south of this lake (the last 120 km through Bolivia). There is enough fuel in Peru...Läs mer

ResenärHey Florin, good travels ahead! May I ask where do you have such good internet connection from to post all these? :)
Leaving Bolivia
12 januari 2025, Bolivia ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C
On January 12th, with enough gas in the tank to get to the Peruvian border and another 100 km, we left La Paz. I have to admit that even though we chose to leave on Sunday morning, the traffic in the city was very stressful. Traffic jams, blocked streets, and reckless driving are absolutely normal here. It took us almost two hours to leave the city, and only by a miracle did I manage to get Nemo out of the traffic chaos without a scratch. For those wondering why we had to cross the city, the answer is simple: there was no other option. After leaving La Paz, the drive to the Peruvian border was uneventful. The border crossing was also relatively quick.
Important detail: although I loaded the GPS-Mercedes map of South America, Bolivia is missing... Yes indeed, in the endless maze of streets, ups and downs, roadblocks and traffic chaos, it's hard to take responsibility for efficient navigation...
Our itinerary through Bolivia can be viewed here:
https://de.mapy.cz/zakladni?planovani-trasy&…Läs mer

Florin Paun
Rahel wasn't expecting me to take a photo, and she unexpectedly entered the picture! :)

Florin Paun
Simón Bolívar (1783 – 1830, colloquially known as "El Libertador") was a Venezuelan statesman and army officer who led what are currently the countries of Colombia, Venezuela, Ecuador, Peru, Panama, and Bolivia to independence from the Spanish Empire. Bolivia gained its independence in 1825.
Titicaca Lake
13 januari 2025, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C
After crossing the border with Peru we continued on the Antiplano (or Andean Plateau) along the southern shore of Lake Titicaca to Puno. In the city of Puno we found an excellent campsite, a gorgeous meadow on the shore of Lake Titicaca on the property of the Hotel Soneata.
The next day, January 13, we took a trip to the Uros Islands. As usual, we did not let ourselves be fooled by all sorts of overpriced tours for inexperienced tourists, but we found a tour with Peruvian or South American locals. For only about 5 USD/person we spent an interesting half-day on the Uros Islands. It must be said that these islands are not very authentic, however, the emergence of mass tourism has caused fishing (the traditional activity of the inhabitants here) to be replaced by the sale of souvenirs or "add on sale" activities such as rides on a rather kitschy boat with cat heads...Läs mer

Florin Paun
Unfortunately, the pollution of the lake is obvious. For example, this duck is having a rest on a used tire.

Florin Paun
The Uro Islands or “Floating Islands” are small islands created by the Uros people from layers of cut totora, a thick, floating reed that grows abundantly in Lake Titicaca. Legend has it that the islanders (Uros) are native to the Amazon basin. The Uros harvest reeds that grow naturally on the lakeshore to make the islands, continually adding reeds to the surface. As an “island chief” told us during our excursion, there are about 140 islands in total. Other sources indicate a slightly smaller number of islands (60 islands, about 1200 inhabitants). An island has a lifespan of about 35-40 years. Although these inhabitants originally engaged in fishing, the main source of income today is tourism (which is why a trip here is not very authentic, as the inhabitants are very involved in selling souvenirs and adding to the sale of boat trips). There is a real tourism industry...
Cusco
17 januari 2025, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C
Finally, here we are in Cusco!... It is not only an interesting city in itself, but can be used as a starting point for a number of remarkable attractions in the surroundings, the most important being the Inca ruins of Machu Picchu. Cusco abounds in historical buildings, museums and local markets with a rustic character.
During our stay in Cusco we did a day trip with a small organized group to the "Rainbow Mountain". The price of these trips varies, I found one quite cheap (23 USD/person, including transportation, 2 very tasty meals, guide) but being cheap, you had to climb the mountain yourself (no quad or horseback transportation included). It was a fantastic experience, despite the bad weather, we managed without additional means of locomotion to reach the 5036 m peak with a difference in level of 400 m. The air was really thin! But we took advantage of the altitude adaptation that we started in Putre (Chile) and continued it on the Bolivian plateau (Antiplano, 3500 m).Läs mer

Florin Paun
This tea, made from coca leaves, but whose cocaine content is far below the amount that qualifies it as a narcotic substance, is traditionally used by the inhabitants of the Andes against altitude sickness and headaches. It also has a stimulating effect. However, it is forbidden to have coca leaves in your luggage when crossing the border. In my case, it obviously helped me reach the top of the mountain!

Florin Paun
Although the climb to Vinkunia Peak (5036m) starts at 4600 m, the difference in level being “only” 400 m, the lack of oxygen is clearly felt. Along the route, there are several locals with horses. They help exhausted climbers reach the summit or transport them to the valley if they get (very) sick from the altitude. There is also a parallel route to this one, where locals with motorcycles and quads (another business opportunity!) transport you close to the summit to take your vacation snapshot. It must be said that transportation by horse or motorcycle costs more than the cost of the entire trip (transport from Cusco to the base of the Rainbow Mountains, breakfast and lunch are incuded plus entrance ticket to the national reserve)! :)

Florin Paun
Despite the unfavorable weather (during the descent it even started snowing) we managed to reach the summit without any help!
Machu Pichu & Sacred Valley
20 januari 2025, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
In this step we are talking about two days of visiting archaeological sites around the city of Cusco. On January 19th we took an organized trip to the "Sacred Valley", this trip took us to various points of interest and included an excellent lunch. The next day we visited the famous Machu Picchu. We did this visit on our own, making reservations online, without intermediaries.
Machu Picchu... Unfortunately, I have to say that the site that is said to be the most important archaeological site in South America disappointed us. I could tell you a lot, but the price of the entrance ticket plus the three means of transport that must be taken from Cusco to the great Inca city is outrageous (approx. 150 USD/Person) for what you actually see. In addition, the hordes of tourists, the queues (transport plus entrance), the passport control 4 times (!) make the experience here something typical of mass tourism. Once in Machu Picchu, you just have to move along a predetermined route in the entrance ticket, you cannot see the site from all points of view. What I'm writing may seem absurd to you, but believe me, after seeing hundreds of archaeological sites in the 60 countries I've visited, I can definitely say that Machu Picchu is overrated and leaves you with a bitter impression of a great attraction degraded due to mass tourism.
Important note: on January 22nd we will start an organized trip (6 days) with a small group (7 people in total) to Manu National Park, in the Amazon basin. Internet access being limited, I will probably not be able to write messages on FindPenguins and Facebook. During our Amazonian trip our expedition camper, Nemo will remain in Camping Quinta Lala, Cusco.Läs mer

Florin Paun
The train that takes you to Machu Picchu... The atmosphere is more of a provincial circus than a preparation for contemplating a special historical place. Notice the marked excitement of some tourists moving to the rhythms of the music... :)

Florin Paun
Machu Picchu village. This is where the special train drops you off, but from here... you have to take another bus that will take you to the actual site. Another 12 USD/person (one way, about 15 min. drive) and another passport control when boarding the bus...

Florin Paun
Rahel reads about Machu Picchu and its history... There is no historical information inside the site. You cannot rent audio guides. An abundance of guides (I don't know how real or skilled they are) ask you in the queue at the entrance if you don't need a guide...
Manu National Park
27 januari 2025, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C
Of course, a trip to South America cannot be considered complete without a visit to the Amazon Basin. And since for technical reasons Brazil was not on our itinerary, we decided to visit the Manu National Park in Peru. Finding a suitable excursion took some time, but in the end we found an interesting offer. In total, there were seven tourists (two of us and five Chileans) supported by no less than five staff members (group leader, guide, cook, two boatmen or, if necessary, a driver). The trip lasted 6 days/5 nights, enough time to spend two nights in the middle of the Manu National Park. The program was great, but very intense, with waking up every day at five in the morning, lots of hiking, night walks, visiting certain scientific stations or points of interest in the park. It must be said that this type of exploration trip has nothing to do with the "lazy" consumer trip. Finally, I can say that I have gained some insight into the Amazon basin. It is a terrifying wilderness...Läs mer

Florin Paun
The South American species of bees do not sting, but if they are in danger they can attack an opponent in a group. A kind of "kamikaze". However, a failed experiment in the 1960s also spread wild African bees to South America.

Florin Paun
These traditional hats are worn by the Incas and Amazonian peoples. The richness of the colors is said to have been inspired by psychedelic experiences with ayahuasca, a hallucinogenic plant that is used (among other things!) by indigenous peoples in "purification" ceremonies.

Florin Paun
Here, next to a coca bush, Rivelino explains the story of the famous plant and many other fascinating stories...
From Cusco to Nazca
31 januari 2025, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C
The road from Cusco to Nazca, although picturesque and full of great places to photograph, is not easy... And that's because you have to cross the Andes again, from the Amazon to the Pacific. Practically, about 650 km are just winding mountain roads, with no less than three passes located at over 4000 m altitude; the highest of them being located at 4660 m. In addition, it must be added that in Peru there are unfortunately many car and truck drivers who drive simply idiotically (the stupidest maneuver being aggressive overtaking before curves with no visibility; the roads are full of crosses...)!
Just before entering Nazca there is a well-known police station (information from the IOverlander app) for the not-so-nice way they interact with tourists. For example, they can stop you because your headlights are not bright enough, etc. When we approached the station, a policeman waved us to stop, but... when he saw that we had a dash cam, he waved us on! One of the best ideas, to install a dash cam...
The route through Peru, from Puno to Nazca, can be viewed here: https://de.mapy.cz/zakladni?planovani-trasy&…Läs mer

Florin Paun
In some local markets (especially provincial ones) it is hard to find something "normal" to eat. Bananas, mangoes, papayas are always a possible option. This gentleman, however, carries cooking bananas, not normal bananas; some greenhorns buy them and are surprised that they are not good to eat raw.

Florin Paun
These structures, although called "aqueducts," are actually fountains. There are over twelve of them in total, and they date back to the pre-Inca period.

Florin Paun
The small building in the background (in the shape of a kiosk) is the tourist office. Unfortunately, like in many places where we tried to find additional information at the tourist office, no one was working...
Lima
3 februari 2025, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
After struggling through the chaos of Peruvian traffic to get to Lima, we arrived there on 31.01 and stayed for two nights. As a campsite we chose "Club Swiss", a sports club with tennis courts, a swimming pool, recreational activities and a restaurant run by Swiss expats. The club is located in Miraflores, one of the most exclusive and safest neighborhoods of Lima. It is interesting to note that you can park at "Club Swiss" and spend the night in your camper only if you have a Swiss passport. :) The atmosphere at the club is obviously typically Swiss... In the two days we spent here, although our car clearly stands out, we were only asked by one Swiss person what we were doing and where we were going. Probably even this Swiss gentleman, who sells guided tours in Peru, had started talking to us because he wanted to sell us a tour... The most we interacted with was one of the club's doormen, a nice South African who arrived in Peru through marriage and who was very impressed by the story of our journey so far.
We liked Lima, the city contrasted strongly with "Peru outside the capital". Here you can admire a lot of historical buildings, colonial architecture, imposing cathedrals but also colorful local markets. The negative side is, as in many places in Peru, the chaotic traffic and traffic jams. Before we got here, we met overlanders who, due to the well-known traffic difficulties, gave up visiting Lima.Läs mer

Florin Paun
Brother to the Teatro Colon in Buenos Aires, unfortunately the one in Lima is no longer operational and cannot be visited.

Florin Paun
Here it is noticeable that the statue of the famous conquistador, the one who together with a few dozen daring comrades-in-arms on horseback destroyed an entire empire, is surrounded by a fence. I asked the policemen guarding it why. A left-wing demonstration seemed to be about to begin and the statue must be protected! In the Western world democratically elected regimes, being afraid or sympathizing with the Wokist movements, have allowed the incited leftists to take down the colonial statues...

Florin Paun
According to the tradition, the bulls of Pucara represent prosperity, happiness and fertility. They are also protecting the welfare and good luck.
Playa de Colan
9 februari 2025, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C
For the first time on this expedition we are "stuck". We are currently in Playa de Colan, Peru and are waiting for the reopening of the border with Ecuador, which is currently closed due to parliamentary elections and is expected to reopen on 11.02.2024. We hope to be able to enter Ecuador without major problems, although a week ago the border crossing was done (according to information from other overlanders) in about six hours...
In the small resort of Playa del Colan we chose a camping option at "Conzulado 96", a small five-room hotel that also offers the possibility of camping next to the hotel's small swimming pool. The owners of the hotel, a mixed Uruguayan-Peruvian couple, are wonderful people, I have rarely encountered such generosity. Not only did they greet us with great joy upon arrival and with a cold welcome beer, but the next day they invited us to a delicious Uruguayan-style barbecue lunch. On several occasions we had dinner together and told stories about our adventurous travels, about South America and current politics... These encounters with special people make our South American trip truly remarkable, not the number of snapshots captured or the "must-see" places we visited.Läs mer

Florin Paun
The Royal Tombs of Sipán Museum is located in Lambayeque, Peru. It contains most of the important artifacts (ceremonial vessels, necklaces and jewelry) found at Huaca Rajada in 1987, including the Lord of Sipán and his entourage. The museum was designed to present the ancient Moche (100 to 800 AD) artifacts and tombs. Although the road from Lima north (towards the Ecuadorian border) has relatively few "attractions", this interesting museum is one of them.

Florin Paun
Various clay statuettes of members of society are placed according to their rank in society. Unfortunately, the position of the woman was (or at least the hypothesis seems plausible) just as important as that of the prisoner...

Florin Paun
Note the (plastic?) garbage to the left of the eagle. Unfortunately, the presence of garbage in places where it shouldn't be is a major problem in Peru...
Loja
11 februari 2025, Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
This time fewer photos but... good news! Although the land borders between Peru and Ecuador were closed for three days during the Ecuadorian elections, they reopened this morning and we were able to cross (through a less frequented border crossing) in less than two hours. We are currently on the shore of a lake in a park near Loja where you can camp for free. A very quiet area... Tomorrow we leave for Cuenca (distance 215 km).
First impressions of Ecuador are good, the roads are in acceptable condition, there is more variety of shopping than in Peru or Bolivia, and the road traffic is obviously much more civilized than in Peru. Compared to the semi-desert aridity of northern Peru, the lush mountains and fresh air of southern Ecuador are a relief. But the biggest difference between Peru and Ecuador is that Ecuador is much cleaner. Unfortunately, in Peru a large percentage of the population is so stupid that they simply throw their garbage in the street, or garbage bags along the roads, in parking lots, etc. I have often seen bus drivers in Peru throwing PET bottles out the window after drinking the contents.Läs mer
Cuenca
14 februari 2025, Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
On the way from Loja to Cuenca, Ecuador delighted us with its green mountain landscapes and clean air. The roads are generally in good condition, but a real symphony of serpentines. In some regions, landslides in the mountains really represent a real danger, increased attention is required. Arriving in Cuenca (2500 m above sea level) we found an excellent tiny campsite (thanks to "IOverlanders", in the courtyard of a villa, the owner is very nice and loves to discuss politics) very close to the city center. Cuenca has a lot to offer the visitor: interesting museums, imposing cathedrals, colorful squares but also a lively atmosphere of the city.
This city as well as the road that crosses the mountainous region from Cuenca to Quito, are considered safe. The presence of police forces or the army is obvious and gives a feeling of security. Unfortunately, the coastal area of the country is currently considered unsafe and not recommended for tourism/overlanding, due to the clashes between the different clans fighting for supremacy in drug trafficking. Of course, we will only cross Ecuador through areas considered safe.
Our route from Lima to Cuenca can be viewed at the following link: https://de.mapy.cz/zakladni?planovani-trasy&…Läs mer

Florin Paun
Shrunken heads (syn. tsantsas) were made by the Shuar and Achuar people who live in the Amazon rainforests of Ecuador and Peru. They were created by removing the skin and hair from a dead human skull of a male enemy (no heads of women, children, or Indo-Europeans were used), with other parts of the skull being discarded. The eye sockets and mouth were sewn shut to prevent the soul of the deceased from escaping. The resulting shrunken heads are about the size of an orange. These shrunken heads were worn as trophies, granting the wearer magical powers. While searching the internet for more information about these heads, I came across an article titled “Oxford Museum Removes ‘Racist’ Shrunken Heads from Display After 80 Years” (2020). In the most idiotic "woke" style, because we are not allowed to "criticize" the inhabitants of the tribes in question... These stupid woke-ists want to rewrite history, like in Orwell's "1984". I am convinced that the Papuan cannibals were actually vegans...

Florin Paun
In the Andes, masks have been used for many purposes, including to honor the dead, entertainment (carnival) and in religious dances.

Florin Paun
Here we visited, among other things, an impressive collection of photographs from the 50s-70s, as well as the cameras with which they were taken.
Quito
20 februari 2025, Ecuador ⋅ 🌧 15 °C
From Cuenca to Quito we spent two days on the road, although there are only about 420 km between the two cities. The road, quite narrow in places, winds through mountains greened by frequent rains. In addition, various road maintenance works, obstacles (rockfalls are a major danger!), checkpoints prolong the journey longer than we would have expected. Both Quito and Cuenca have been declared UNESCO heritage sites, in each of them you can spend a few days without getting bored.
In Quito we camped at the "CoDa Vista" Camping, currently the only possibility of camping in the city. The campsite is located on a height that offers an excellent panoramic view of the capital of Ecuador. Unfortunately, the relatively unfavorable weather, with daily rains and sometimes dense fog, did not allow us to make an ascent (at least partial) of the Cotopaxi volcano. However, it is important not to let the bad weather get in your way and to find interesting alternatives. So in the last few days we visited several interesting museums, the historic center of the city and the remarkable botanical garden. Among the museums, I liked the Museum of Pre-Columbian Art the most, the excellent explanations of the exhibits offering a glimpse into the daily life, mythology and traditions of pre-Columbian civilizations.Läs mer

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These excellent cakes can easily compete with the best Swiss chocolate cakes. The cake in the foreground, "Amazonia", even won a prize in an international competition. To be honest, I don't remember ever eating a better chocolate cake...

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The grilled Cilus (spanish: corvina) fish with patotaes and "Ceviche". The corvina is highly prized in South America as a food fish. Ceviche is a very popular cold dish consisting of fish or shellfish marinated in citrus fruits and spices. Different versions of ceviche are part of the culinary cultures of various Latin American countries along the Pacific Ocean and is considered the national dish of Peru.

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It was raining heavily outside and the saleswoman was standing in front of the store with a tray of products for tasting. That's how she lured us inside the store... :) Cocoa is used to make the most varied products, not only chocolate and liqueur, but also creams, perfumes, beer and a sparkling wine (it has a strange taste, of... cocoa)! After the tasting, we bought a coffee-flavored chocolate.
Galapagos Islands (1)
24 februari 2025, Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C
The Galapagos is a place like no other in the world... The fauna and flora found here are absolutely fascinating and unusual. On the islands you find forms of vegetation that you have never seen anywhere else, sea lions resting on park benches without caring about passers-by, penguins lost in the course of evolution, birds of the most unusual and giant tortoises that can slowly cross the road. The aquatic life is also fantastic, sea lions can accompany you while snorkeling, sharks of several species including the famous hammerhead sharks, sea turtles and a lot of fish can be observed during diving. Definitely a place that is on the list of those who like to travel...
We chose to stay only on Santa Cruz Island for the entire stay (6 nights) at the Flamingo Hotel. We were very pleased with our choice of accommodation, the hotel offers all the comforts, excellent breakfast and is very centrally located in Puerto Ayura. Most visitors frequently travel between islands, but staying only a week we preferred to stay on the same island and possibly make day trips to other nearby islands.
Unfortunately, this wonderful place also has some man-made aspects that overshadow the greatness of nature... That the prices of this location are very high is to be expected and somewhat normal. If the prices were very affordable, the islands would probably be flooded with mass tourism. But the quality of services (and here I am talking especially about diving and tours with activities) is below expectations, you get the impression that the tour operators are only interested in quickly collecting the dollars of the tourist who came to see the island wonders. In addition, they only ask for cash, if you want to pay with a credit card they want to add a 10% commission (illegal in Ecuador). I don't want to get into polemics about what is hidden behind this "cash mania". I just want to say that we resisted the temptation to pay in cash or with commissions. And we sometimes negotiated to the death. Out of principle, not out of stinginess. Talking to other tourists during the tours, I found that unfortunately there are greenhorns who pay double the price for the same thing.Läs mer

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Tortuga Bay is located on Santa Cruz Island, about a 20-minute water taxi ride from the small town of Puerto Ayora. A 2.5-km walk is also possible (free and with beautiful nature to admire along the way). Tortuga Bay has a gigantic, perfectly preserved beach that is forbidden to swimmers, but open to surfers. The beach is full of wildlife, including the very common marine iguanas, crabs and Galapagos birds. There is a separate bay for swimming (here you are protected from strong currents thanks to natural barriers), where it is common to see small reef sharks.

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The photo speaks for itself... Not only is the enormous stretch of fine sand beach impressive, but the lack of mass tourism is evident. In this bay you can swim without fear of strong sea currents.

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The Galapagos tortoise is the largest living species of tortoise in the world and can weigh over 400 kg, with most specimens reaching a weight of around 300 kg. With a lifespan in the wild of over 100 years, it is one of the longest-lived vertebrates. In the Galapagos they are generally free to move around the islands. Spanish explorers, who discovered the islands in the 16th century, named them after the Spanish "galapago", meaning "tortoise".,
Galapagos Islands (2)
27 februari 2025, Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C
The Galapagos Islands. We spent a week here, marveling at every turn. It was a welcome change from our expedition routine. Snorkeling with sea lions, unusual fauna and flora everywhere and I was even lucky enough to come face to face with a huge hammerhead shark... Truly a great privilege in life to be able to experience these special moments.Läs mer

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The best tuna I've ever had. The grilled shrimp that accompanied it were also fantastic!

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Although the quality of this filmed sequence is poor, the moment when the sea lion swims next to you while snorkeling is fantastic...

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Although tourism is clearly the main source of income in the Galapagos, parts of the islands are devoted to agriculture. The photo was taken during a visit to a farm where sugar cane, cocoa and coffee produced on the plantations are processed. The machinery in the picture presses the sugar cane and is operated by people or donkeys turning the tree trunk. Sugar cane juice has multiple uses, including the manufacture of spirits.
Back to Quito
3 mars 2025, Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C
On February 27th we returned from the Galapagos Islands. The next day we changed the car's oil right at the Mercedes garage in Quito. In addition, we changed the fuel and air filters, the spare parts we had brought from Switzerland. Although the Mercedes Sprinter is a fairly common van in South America, many parts are different from those of European models. Not to mention that in South America, diesel models that use add blue are very rare. In Ecuador, Mercedes cars (including the latest models of limousines) only have Euro 3 or at most 4 standards, and our Sprinter has Euro 6 standard. So far Nemo, the Blue Bus, has worked excellently.
On the first of March, Tobias, Rahel's brother, arrived. He bought an open jaw plane ticket Zurich - Quito, Cartagena - Zurich and came to accompany us. Following our blog and talking to Rahel, he was attracted by the idea of taking part in our adventure even if only for two weeks.Läs mer

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If I regret missing anything in Ecuador, it's that due to the rainy weather we couldn't even partially climb the magnificent (and still active!) volcano.

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Breakfast in a B&B located right next to the campsite. Tobias rented a room here.

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Quito is in the midst of a local celebration ("carnival" I think would be an understatement) where locals spray each other with soapy sprays. Of course, tourists don't escape unscathed either.
Bye bye Ecuador, hello Colombia!
7 mars 2025, Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
On March 4th, after spending the night at a well-known campsite (Finca Sommerwind), we crossed the border into Colombia. The border crossing formalities took more than two hours, although the officers were very kind and we were the only van with European license plates crossing the border. But we can't complain, we have a three-month visa. Although we don't want to stay that long in Colombia, we need a visa for at least two months in case of any problems with Nemo's sea transport from Colombia to Panama (there the Pan-American Highway is interrupted, the trip involves an absurdly expensive boat crossing; although we have a reservation for April 14th, delays or postponements are frequent!).
The road from Quito to Popayán, although only 600 kilometers long, cannot be done in less than three days... Especially during the rainy season. The road winds through fog-covered mountains, there are frequent blockages due to avalanches on the adjacent slopes or due to road repairs. The average speed cannot exceed 40 km/h, but 30-35 km/h is more realistic... The beauty of the mountain landscapes is enchanting, despite the frequent rains. Finally, on April 6th we arrived in Popayán, also called the "white city".
The itinerary from Loja (Ecuador) to Popayan (Colombia) can be seen here:
https://de.mapy.cz/zakladni?planovani-trasy&…Läs mer

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These plants, depending on the species, have a multitude of uses, but the production of spirits (such as Tequila) is one of them.

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This place with a typical German beer hall atmosphere attracts tourists (especially those on organized tours) who miss Europe. We were not very enthusiastic about this place, the beer prices being even higher than in Germany... In addition, the very "business-oriented" owner Hans (a German who has lived in Ecuador for several decades) tries to keep you in this very inauthentic place for Ecuador.

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The traffic is typical Colombian: lots of mopeds between the lanes. Although in this photo the motorcyclists are wearing helmets, riding without helmets (even four people, 2 adults and 2 children on a motorbike) is common.
Cali & around
10 mars 2025, Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C
With open-hearted and welcoming people, imposing mountains, spectacular roads, an abundance of vegetation, great biodiversity, fantastic tropical fruits and intense salsa rhythms, Colombia is an absolutely fascinating country. Of course, if we were to believe literally what Western officials say and recommend on their websites about tourist activities in Colombia, we would probably never visit this wonderful country, especially with our own expedition vehicle! As in most South American countries, there are areas in Colombia that should be avoided, but with some research, enchanting locations can be visited.
In Cali, a city of two million inhabitants, we camped at Villa de Bosco, a quiet hotel with a swimming pool, and stayed there for two nights. As usual, parking safety is very important, here it is obvious that you cannot leave your camper unattended anywhere. The city of Cali did not seem very attractive to me, most of all we liked the central market with live music and excellent Colombian food.
We then left for Medellin, interrupting the route at "Finca Alejandria", a splendid finca located in the mountains covered in mist and surrounded by a biodiversity unseen anywhere else in the world. In the surrounding rainforest live 40 species of hummingbirds and over 300 other species of birds. What we saw here is beyond words, hundreds of hummingbirds swarming at the same time around the plates of sugar solution prepared by the owner. The birds fly so close to you, they almost touch you, and if you stand still, they come within ten centimeters of you... An absolutely fascinating place. A real paradise for birds lovers.Läs mer

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In Europe I was never a big fan of avocados, but in South America they taste fantastic, especially the big green ones, with smooth skin. The seller's efforts are supported by the megaphone that continuously screams: "buy avocados! they're good for salad, good for guacamole, good for your health...". In addition, the seller offers the wonderful product for tasting.

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This location is truly fantastic. The owner is very friendly and welcoming, the finca employee cooked us a simple but tasty dinner. Here during the day we saw only a few photographers who came to immortalize the little hummingbirds, but in the evening we were left alone... Peace in the middle of the rainforest, far from the madness of mass tourism.
Cocora Valley
13 mars 2025, Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C
Colombia delights us with its nature, biodiversity and dreamlike landscapes. It is truly a great privilege to be able to travel through this country with your own expedition vehicle.
After leaving the Cali region, we visited Yotoco Forest Reserve where we saw, among other things, several howler monkeys (unfortunately, I don't have a good photo to show here). Then we traveled through Cocora Valley, a region famous for its coffee culture and picturesque landscapes. In Cocora Valley, we spent the night at a coffee farm ("El Recuerdo") where we had the privilege of taking a tour of the plantation with Don Carlos, the plantation owner. The last destination visited in Cocora Valley was Salento, a small town with very colorful houses but in my opinion not very authentic, which attracts a lot of tourists, especially backpackers.Läs mer

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Each fruit contains two beans (exceptionally three). Ripe fruits turn red. Coffea arabica is generally a superior quality to Coffea robusta. Robusta coffee tends to be bitter and has less flavor, but a better body than arabica. This is why about three-quarters of the coffee grown worldwide is C. arabica. Robusta strains also have some advantages; they contain about 40–50% more caffeine, can be grown at lower altitudes and higher temperatures, and are more resistant to pests than arabica varieties. Good quality robusta beans are used in traditional Italian espresso blends to provide a fuller flavor and better foam.

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Initially, coffee was grown in the shade of trees that provided habitat for many animals and insects, and at the same time, tall trees extract nutrients from the deep layers of the soil and refresh the soil with their fallen leaves, which is beneficial for the coffee bushes. The environmental impact is much lower than in monocultures. This method is commonly referred to as "shade grown coffee". Since the 1970s, many farmers have changed their production method to sun cultivation, in which coffee is grown in rows under full sun. This makes the fruits ripen faster and the bushes produce larger yields, but requires tree cleaning and increased use of fertilizers and pesticides. On Don Carlos's coffee plantation, only the traditional "shade grown coffee" method is used.

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The vegetable fibers extracted from this succulent species are extremely resistant and can be traditionally used to make coffee bags.






































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































Florin Paun
This hotel enjoys an excellent location, being placed at an altitude of 3000m, immediately after the customs point between Argentina and Chile.After dinner we asked if we could spend the night in our camper in the hotel parking lot., They said yes, we were allowed also to use the hotel toilet and they gave us even the wifi password. Wonderful people!
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At dawn near Hotel Portillo. The building seen in the upper left is the Argentinian - Chlinien customs building, located at ca. 3200 m.
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The three mountain peaks are called the "Three Brothers", the one in the back being the highest, at 4750 m. Aconcagua, the highest mountain in South America, although much higher (6961 m) cannot be seen because of the "Three Brothers" and another interfering mountain range.
ResenärSuper Aussicht vom Hotel. 👍