Was heading for Dun Laoghaire but ended up in Scotland Read more
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  • Day 10

    Hot, very hot!

    June 8, 2018 in Northern Ireland ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    Some British flagged yachts had come into Ardglass late last evening on their way south but most of them had gone by the time I got up.
    I had a quick shower ashore to freshen up and slipped my lines at 09.45.

    It was flat calm without a ripple on the water and it was very hot even at that hour of the morning. I passed some seals sunning themselves on the rocks near the mouth of the harbour.

    There was plenty of traffic, both yachts and fishing boats to keep a look out for.

    I hoisted the main after imagining there was a bit of a breeze but dropped it later as the 'wind' wasn't strong enough to keep it full.
    A Belgian yacht kept me company until it stopped to anchor off Copeland Island near the mouth of Belfast Lough. He was far from home.

    I turned into the lough and entered Bangor harbour about 40 minutes later, pulling up to the fuel berth where I was hoping to get some fuel and instructions on where to berth.

    As I was waiting for the pump attendant I began tidying the main away when my phone began to ring.
    The caller told me that I needed to do a better job with the sail. It was an 086 number from the south but speaking with a northern accent and whoever it was could see me!
    I looked around but couldn't see a tricolour or who was calling.
    It turned out to be Billy McAllister of 'Irish Masts & Rigging' who had replaced my standing rigging last year. He keeps his boat at Bangor and had seen me come in, recognised Eureka and decided to have a bit of fun.

    Unfortunally the diesel was foaming because of the heat. I have a shallow run into my fuel tank that doesn't tolerate foaming as it just backs up and begins to overflow. I only got 22 litres in before I gave up and instead filled my two jerry cans which later went into the tank no problem.
    I headed off to my allocated berth and was helped by a member of staff in tieing up.

    I walked up the marina to Billy's yacht and met his wife. He gave me some good information on eating in Bangor and for my voyage across to Scotland. I then I headed into town to provision for the next week as there wouldn't be much opportunity on the Scottish islands.

    I had a lovely meal in Billy's recommended eating place washed down with couple of pints followed by a shower after all the pulling and dragging in the heat before going to bed.
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  • Day 11

    Ballycastle or Glenarm?

    June 9, 2018 in Northern Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    After my chat yesterday with Billy, I decided to cross the North Channel to Scotland from Glenarm instead of going future north to Ballycastle. That meant I didn't have to leave Bangor as early as originally planned.

    I had set the alarm for 06.00 but turned over then it went off and didn't get up till 07.00. I have no idea why I had it on that early?

    The gas lighter wouldn't work for my breakfast so I had to go up the town for a replacement. Then I suddenly realised I had no charts for Scotland.
    Well, why would I? I was only going as far as Dun Laoghaire.
    I did have electronic charts on the chartplotter but I wanted paper ones for an overall view and in case anything went wrong with the plotter.
    Luckily I knew that there was a major chart supplier in Bangor so when the staff came to open up, they found they already had a customer waiting.
    Great!, they had a leisure folio which covered the whole of the area I would be sailing in.

    I left the marina at 09.40 and hoisted the sails outside. The winds were light from the north east so it was a beat out of Belfast Lough but I was just happy to be sailing again, no matter how slowly.
    Unfortunally soon after I had left the lough the wind died when I was still south of Larne. It came back about an hour later but this time from the south. I continued heading north with the sails goose winged on a run.

    Once I reached the Maiden Rocks, north west of Larne, I was able to change course into Glenarm bay and I gybed to go on a reach.
    Seeing that it was going to be windless night and I was leaving early, I decided not to bother going into the marina and instead anchored off in 6 meters near the entrance at 17.00.

    Once anchored I did some laundry and other domestic duties. I really enjoyed the peace and quite of this anchorage.
    After a late dinner I put some of the leftovers in a container for tomorrow and fed the rest to the fishes.

    I was feeling homesick after being on the phone to Maeve and knowing if I continued on to Scotland I was added to the days that it would take to get home again. I was wondering should I turn around and head home.
    We'll see how I feel in the morning.
    Just thinking of the song, "Is it left or right for . . . . . . .?"
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  • Day 12

    Scotland here I come.

    June 10, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Having woken up after a calm night I found that the weather seemed to have changed a bit. The morning was cloudy and cool so I turned on the heating to warm up the saloon as I had my breakfast.
    My head was feeling better after a good nights sleep so I decided to keep heading north for Scotland. When would I be back this way again?

    At 08.30 I lifted the anchor which came up nice and clean and headed out of the bay towards the North Channel. Soon I could feel the tide begin to carry me along as my speed over ground on the plotter increased compared to my speed through the water that the log was showing.
    Luckily the tides in Scotland were going to suit me sailing during daylight hours, this was by luck rather than any planning on my part.

    I had to watch out for passing shipping as I was crossing just south of the traffic separation zone as I headed toward the Mull of Kintyre .
    I had two ships in view as I approached, both heading north and I passed behind the second one. I was across before I had to worry about those heading south in the other lane

    The wind got up about 11.00 and I was almost on a beat as I approached the western side of the Mull and I was having a good sail.
    Unfortunally as sun came out and the morning warmed up, the wind disappeared and the engine was back on about 2 hours later but i was nearly there.

    These were new waters for me so I was closely examining the charts and pilot book as I approached the small island of Gigha. I meandered past the rocks on the approach to my destination, Ardminish Bay the main anchorage on Gigha.

    I began to look for a suitable place to anchor but the places I liked were too shallow and those that were deep enough were outside the visitor moorings future away from the shore so I decided to pick up one of moorings instead and add to the islanders coffers.

    Due to the high freeboard on Eureka I am normally unable to pick up a mooring from the bow especially when I'm solo so I usually rig a mooring line from the bow and bring it aft, then reverse upwind to the buoy using the steps on the stern to get down to water level, slipping the mooring line through the shackle on the buoy and walk back to the bow pulling in the line as I go.
    Luckily or by pure skill I picked it up first time and was soon relaxing in the cockpit going ashore.

    Later another fully crewed yacht came in and were almost holding one of the crew over the side by his ankles as they tried to pick up the buoy.
    After numerous attempts they went to another buoy and finally tied up.
    I was very pleased with myself but it doesn't always go smoothly for me either.

    It was late in the afternoon by the time I was tied up, so I blew up the dinghy and attached the outboard but had my dinner onboard before going ashore to have a look around.

    Once ashore I walked south for about two kilometres before returning to the jetty and having a pint at 'The Boathouse'. Lucky for them I had it ordered before paying. GB£5!! This was the equivalent of €5.70 or about 30% more than I pay at my local. In fairness even though it looked like a glorified wooden beach shack, 'The Boathouse' was a high end seafood restaurant and were probably charging the few visitors that arrived at the island in the summer, enough to get them through the winter.

    I sat outside watching the sun go down when Maeve rang to say her Aunt Mary had died unexpectedly.
    I immediately thought about how I could get home in time for the funeral but I was miles away from any public transport and even if I left straight away to sail back to the north to get the train down I'd probably still not make it.
    We both quickly realised it couldn't be done but I was sorry I wouldn't be there as Mary made me very welcome to the family when Maeve and I began going out together.

    I returned out to Eureka, turning on the heating to warm up as it had become chilly ashore and read for a while before sleep overtook me.
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  • Day 13

    More gardens

    June 11, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    I first visited a 'garden' while cruising, when I visited Garnish Island in Glengarriff in my previous boat 'Tricia' about 2014.
    Now having visited the Trebah Gardens near the Helford River and the Abbey gardens on Tresco on last year's cruise, it seems to be becoming compulsory to visit a garden on every cruise. So today I was going ashore to visit Achamore Gardens.

    The gardens were established by a previous owner of Gigha who also owned the house in the gardens but now the house is privately owned while the gardens were left after his death to the Scottish Trust. The island was bought by the community in 2002 so you could almost call it a socialist island

    But first I had to have a nice shower so I turned on the heating to dry out the heads once I was finished and also to keep me nice and warm until I was decent again.
    This was followed by a toasted tuna sandwich and coffee and then I was ready to face the world.

    It was still cloudy and cool when I got ashore so the 2 km. walk on empty country roads was lovely and pleasant. By the time I got to the gardens the sun had returned and it began to heat up.

    I met a nice couple from Yorkshire who were caravanning on the mainland but had come on the morning ferry and were visiting for the day. It turned out that they had previously visited the gardens 20 years before. After a pleasant conversation I left them off to walk around on their own with their memories.

    As I wandered around the gardens the shade became welcome as the day got very hot. To my untrained eye, the gardens while nice seemed a little neglected but maybe it was just the time of the year.

    I stopped on the way back for a coffee and a brownie at the community hall which had a coffee shop, a gift shop and an gallery for local artists.
    I got chatting with the girl who served me as she was wearing a Saw Doctors t-shirt. It turned out she was from Coventry and only here for the summer. The accent should have been a big giveaway that she wasn't local! It turned out she has Irish parents and is a regular at Saw Doctors concerts in Britain. It's a small world.

    I visited the ruins of an old church and graveyard founded by an Irish saint, St. Cathan.
    One of the headstones I found was of the Galbraith family. A son of theirs was mentioned on the headstone was being Callum Galbraith who died at the Cork Military Hospital in 1918.
    I had visited a patient in this hospital in the 1970's in Collins Barracks but was known as Victoria Barracks when Callum died there.

    After I returned to Ireland I found that this soldier, under the name of Malcolm Galbraith is commemorated in a park off Assumption Road which was the military cemetery for the nearby Victoria Barracks but is now maintained as a public park. The names of the 83 service men buried there are listed on a memorial in the park. The original headstones for those who had died between 1914-18 were brought to Grangegorman Military Cemetery on Blackhorse Avenue in Dublin and placed near a memorial wall that has the names of soldiers whose graves elsewhere in Ireland were no longer possible to maintain following independence.
    (In a surprising coincidence when I visited the Cork memorial in 2023 I discovered that Callum was serving with the Argyll & Sutherland Highlanders which was the same regiment that my own grandfather served with between 1914 -16)

    I called to 'The Boathouse' again on my way back to the bay to have a pint, just the one mind you and sat outside in the sun while reading my book but a breeze started and I had to put on my jacket as it began to cool down again.

    I called to the little village shop at the top of the pier to get some supplies and headed back to Eureka to make dinner.

    As I started my journey out, I saw 'Oronsay' one of the Moodys that was at the rally in Dun Laoghaire. I hadn't expected to meet up again. I knew they were heading to Scotland but thought they would be far north of me by this stage as they had left Dun Laoghaire to head north a day or two before me.
    It turned out that for some reason they had to stop for a couple of days in Belfast and were only now catching up with me.
    The owner Keith had been keeping an eye out for me when he saw Eureka moored in the bay so I got a big wave as I headed out in the dinghy and I headed over to say hello and have a chat before they headed ashore and I headed for Eureka.

    I finished the day by reporting in to Maeve and later turning on the radio. Lilian Smith standing in for Johnny Creedon. Feck! you can't have everything.
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  • Day 14

    Crinan

    June 12, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    I woke up at dawn and only had bits and pieces of sleep after that.
    I eventually dragged myself out of my berth at 08.30 and left the mooring at 09.00 having decided to have breakfast on the way.

    I was hoping to get to Crinan Harbour today. The sun was out and there was a nice breeze but unfortunally it was from the north east right on the nose.

    There was a small cruise ship anchored off Gigha visiting the island.
    As soon as I was out of the bay, I hoisted the main but due to the wind I had to round the north of Gigha before I could unfurl the genny and turn off the engine. Then I was able to take a more northerly course towards Jura.
    I had a lovely sail but knew I'd have to tack as I was on a course for the Carrs Rocks off Lough Sween on the mainland and would run out of room.

    The wind was steadily increasing as it funnelled down the Sound of Jura and later I had to put a reef in the main. I was waiting till I was ready to tack before reefing the genny. When I did I found I couldn't get it to set properly so decided to furl it completely but then the furling line came off, luckily when the sail was already fully furled.

    I continued under main with the engine. Wind was against tide and the strong currents moved the boat around as we continued north. It felt like I was back in East Ferry on the flood tide.
    I motored the last 10 miles to Crinan with the main giving an extra knot and with 1.5 to 2 knots of tide under me. I was flying along going about 8 knots over ground twice the speed I'd be going if I was going in the opposite direction.
    You definitely have to get the tides right here in Scotland.

    When I entered Loch Crinan I motored up to see the lock gates into the canal. The canal is a short cut across the top of the Mull of Kintyre into the Clyde.
    There was a Sadler 32 or 34 anchored off but it was too shallow for me so I returned to the boatyard to pick up one of their visitor moorings and was moored up at 15.10.

    I had to tidy the saloon as some books etc. had fallen on the deck thanks to the wind on the way here. Then I fixed, or thought I had, the furling line.

    My belly was complaining so a sandwich and a coffee was next on the agenda before launching the dinghy, attaching the outboard and going ashore at the jetty.

    Next-door was the boatyard and they were restoring 'Auld Reekie' one of the last if not the last steam puffer that used to provide the delivery service around the coast of Scotland.
    They had flat bottoms and would often beach themselves before unloading so could get in almost anywhere.
    Also in the sheds were some lovely classic wooden yachts.

    I walked the sort distance to the entrance of the canal and watched as three yachts entered the basin and then went past the next lock into the canal proper. Hopefully I'll do it sometime and had been trying to pick up some tips. The main one is not to do it solo!

    I followed the tow path along the canal for 3 or 4 kilometres before returning to the only pub in the place and having a pint before heading back to Eureka.

    On the way I paused to have a look at the yachts in the yard. The foreman saw me looking, and invited me to come in and have a look around. They were finished work for the day so I had the place to myself as I admired the curves of these lovely ladies and took a few photos.

    I headed out to Eureka, had my dinner and sat enjoying calm and sunny evening and the piece and quite as I finished another book.
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  • Day 15

    Oban or is it Kerrera

    June 13, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    There was a day or two of strong westerly winds forecast so I decided to head to Oban marina to get some shelter before it arrived.
    The west side of Oban bay is protected by Kerrera Island which is where Oban Marina is. Confused yet?

    I woke at 07.00 but didn't get up till 08.00 and continued to have a lazy morning with breakfast followed by a bit of engine maintenance before bringing the dinghy and engine aboard.

    I was ready to depart at 09.30, slipped the mooring and motored slowly out of the harbour but left the sails down as there was very little wind.

    About 11.00 the breeze started when I was east of Scarba Island and approaching the Sound of Luing. I hoisted the main but kept the genny furled as I needed manoeuvrability and visibility going through the narrow sound as it began to rain.

    The tides were with me and I was flying along at 8.2 knots over ground but with only 4.5 knots showing on the log. Two other yachts were travelling with me, one slightly ahead and one behind and it seemed we were all heading for the same gap between the islands.

    Once through the sound I unfurled the genny, turned off the engine and continued north on a broad reach at 6.5 - 7.0 knots.
    The wind continued to increase and was hitting 22 knots when I decided to reef the genoa but again the furling line came away but this time with the sail still out.
    The wind was too strong to leave the genny up so I dropped it and tied it onto the lifelines while I tried to figure out what to do as it was going to make berthing difficult when I got to the marina.

    I was on a run when I got a little shelter in Kerrera Sound which lead to Oban Bay and a plan formed. I started the engine and increased my speed until it cancelled the effect of the wind from behind and wrapped as much of the line around the drum as I could. I then hoisted the genny in the shelter of the main and furled it quickly as I was running out of sea-room and too narrow to rely on the autopilot for long.
    It worked and now I could berth without having a sail covering half the deck. I'll have to do something about it before I go any further.

    I called up the marina and they sent someone down to help me berth as the wind would have caused me problems. I was all secure by 14.20. A short day but I was glad that it was at an end with the increasing wind, rain and the problems with the furling line.

    The rain was now heavy so I headed ashore for the showers and then went to 'The Waypoint', the marina's bar / restaurant. It was no weather to be outdoors.

    It turned out the barmaid preferred Murphy's to Guinness and Stuart, who had helped me tie up, not only loved boats but is also into motorbikes so we had a good chat while listening to the rain pelting down outside.

    The wind was howling as I headed late back to Eureka for dinner.
    I left my oilskins drip drying in the heads with the heating on again helping to dry them out.
    I wasn't venturing out again in that weather so I settled down and watched a dvd as I ate my dinner and went on deck to check the mooring lines every now and then.

    One last check on the lines as the wind howled and pushed Eureka against the pontoon and I put my head down for the night.
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  • Day 16

    Nice and Sheltered

    June 14, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    I woke shortly after dawn. The wind was backing to the south from the south west and blowing force 7 to 8. I checked my lines and fenders and went back to bed.

    At least it was only showery today and I was able to wander outside. The marina runs a small ferry to Oban and I got the one at 10.00 and wandered around the town and got a few bits and pieces while I was there.
    I headed back to the marina at noon and later that afternoon I had a visitor, Roy Totten a fellow member of the Moody Owners Assoc. who I had last met in Dun Laoghaire was berthed a fingers up from me.

    He had arrived yesterday as well but neither of us had noticed the other's boat as the weather was making us keep our heads down. I was invited to their boat for a drink and finger food but unfortunally had to turn down the invitation as I already had a table booked at 'The Waypoint' for dinner but we soon changed it from a table for one to three as Roy & Patricia his wife, joined me for dinner instead.
    We ended up having a very pleasant evening before returning to their boat for a coffee and more chatting.
    It was good to have company again.

    I headed back to Eureka in a Gale Force 8 and read till midnight.
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  • Day 17

    Repairs, Exploring & Provisioning .

    June 15, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    After breakfast I checked the forecasts for tomorrow. Roy and I had decided over dinner last night that we would head for Tobermory on the island of Mull once the weather improved.
    Having checked the tides it looked like a departure after 14.00 tomorrow would give us most of a favourable tide without arriving too late.

    The wind had dropped overnight and was now Force 3 to 5 and more importantly it had stopped raining.
    I found a manual for my furling gear and set about getting it working properly again which wasn't too difficult but did require a little dismantling.

    Once I had finished, I decided to explore the island and walked up to the monument to David Hutcheson erected in 1883.
    He was a pioneer of steam powered ferries in the west of Scotland and opened up the coast and the islands for the shipping of goods, passengers and tourism.
    His company later became 'Hutcheson & Macbrayne' which is today's 'Caladonian MacBrayne' and still operates in the west of Scotland
    He is also responsible for Oban growing from a village into an important town. Having died in 1880 an obelisk was erected on Kerrera in his memory.

    Oban Bay was a base for Short Sutherland seaplanes during WW2 and on the island are still some delict military installations and south of the marina is a wide slip and a metal structure that had been used by the planes.

    The island didn't have an awful lot to offer but I enjoyed stretching the legs and in the afternoon I again got the ferry across to Oban and visited the town's museum and stocked up in Tesco.

    Heading back to the quay for my return journey I found Roy and Patricia waiting for the same ferry.
    We decided to have dinner together later with friends of Roy. Herbie and his wife who sail a Hallberg Rassy 42 from Roy's home post of Carrickfergus and I returned to Eureka to spend the rest of the afternoon getting her ready for tomorrow.

    We had a nice evening in 'The Waypoint' where I found Herbie has a very dry sense of humour which could go over your head unless you were paying attention.
    We planned a departure at 14.30 tomorrow for Tobermory and I stopped for a coffee on Roy's boat on the way back to Eureka.
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  • Day 18

    Tobermory or Balamory?

    June 16, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    The heating was back on while I was having breakfast as it was cold and the rain had returned but it was not as heavy as forecast and came and went in showers.
    The wind strengthened a bit during the morning and I brought my two jerry cans to get filled up and emptied one of them into the fuel tank.

    Roy and Patricia helped me leave my berth and I motored out into the bay, hoisting a reefed main.
    Roy and Herbie were close behind but didn't hoist any sail for a while. Both have in-mast reefing.

    Once they hoisted sail I unfurled my genny to the second reef and Eureka lifted her skirts and flew across the Firth of Lorn at 6 plus knots in 20 knots of wind.
    I had no problem keeping ahead of the two 42's and they in turn stated later that they were impressed by Eureka's speed. However I had no wife aboard to tell me "she's heeling too much!"

    I notice the two boats were keeping to a more northerly course and keeping north of Lady's Rock off Lismore Island while I kept to the deeper water south of it. They had been sailing in these waters before, I hadn't.

    When we got into the Sound of Mull, the wind became westerly and on the nose. We all dropped sails and motored.
    I kept pace with Roy and Herbie. The sound was a busy place with plenty of yachts as well as the odd ferry. You had to pay attention and keep both eyes open including for overtaking vessels.

    Luckily the weather had improved, the showers were almost gone and the sun was attempting to reappear but it was still a bit chilly.

    Once the sound became more northerly I again unfurled the genny and added a knot to my speed as I motorsailed along.
    We were all able to sail till Calve Island off Tobermory when we furled sails again and motored into the harbour.

    The long line of quayside houses painted in bright colours was just what I remembered from all the photos I had seen of the town over the years.
    There was a children's programme based on Tobermory called 'Balamory' and I almost expected to see some of its characters when I got ashore.

    I upset the skipper of a big Belgian yacht when I passed him in the harbour. I think he thought I was after his berth. I knew that at 70-80ft in length he was too big for the marina and would have to anchor or pick up a visitor mooring which he did later.
    Instead of angrily gesturing at me in French or Flemish as I shrugged my shoulders and replied in Irish, he should have read his pilot book!
    I didn't interfere with his navigation so I don't know what his problem was.

    I waited till Roy and Herbie had tied up at 18.30 and then they assisted me in tieing up.
    A Dutch tall ship which had being following us up the sound tied up at the main pier in from of the town.

    Each boat kept to themselves that evening and I later wandered up the town and did a bit of window shopping. There was plenty of tourist shops and restaurants to keep me occupied.
    I returned to Eureka at 21.00 and put on a dinner of spuds, carrots and a Cornish pasty washed down with a can of beer.

    A dvd almost put me to sleep but I waited till I was finished my dinner before going to my berth.
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  • Day 19

    Exploring in the rain

    June 17, 2018 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    I didn't wake up till 09.30! Half the day gone already and me just snoring. Outside was the sound of a heavy shower, what was the hurry in getting up?

    I headed to the marina building for a shower and then had breakfast in the cockpit under the bimini as the day began to warm after the earlier shower.

    As I ate I was checking the tides and distances as I planned my journey home. Tobermory was as far north as I was going as I wanted to get home while I still had a home to home to.
    All I was was waiting for was a good forecast but I knew already that I wouldn't be going anywhere tomorrow.

    I went for a walk to explore both the lower town that everyone is familiar with and the upper part of it which is mainly residential and quieter away from all the tourists.
    It began to rain lightly as I made my way back and I met Patricia who was also out and about as I neared the marina. Later Roy invited me for a snack on boat their boat so I quickly headed to the supermarket and bought some wine and chocolates to thank them for all they had done in looking after me over the past few days.

    I had a lovely evening on board 'Imagine of Carrick' and I wandered back to Eureka for a read before putting my head down.
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