• Dan Want
Jun – Sep 2022

South East Asia

A backpacking adventure Baca selengkapnya
  • An end to Bangkok

    18 Juli 2022, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    We took a walk around Siam Paragon and Centralworld shopping mall, the 7th largest mall in the world. It’s fair to say the mall was absolutely massive despite only managing to get around the first two floors of eight in all. The food court was not dissimilar to a small town centre. After the shopping mall we made our way to Chinatown, also one of the worlds largest and the most prominent for street food. Sure enough we ate there after watching a TV commercial being filmed down a back street of Chinatown.

    The following day and in desperate need of some relaxation we booked an infinity pool overlooking Bangkok for the day. Really nice to lay out under a bit of sun 25 floors up subtly hearing the sound of the busy streets below. With street food on our mind… again… we drove to Jodd Fairs street market and enjoyed a variety of dishes although I wasn’t able to face the fried insects just yet, maybe another time. This is my favourite street market so far!

    Our last day took us to Wat Arun, an amazing temple complex. On the way in we saw a giant monitor lizard resting in a stream. These are commonly found in Bangkok’s Lumpini park although when briefly walking through the park days before we didn’t see any. Reading about this a bit more, these lizards are apparently out of control in the park and regularly need removing by local authorities. The lizard we saw was a good 3m long.

    We’ve both been keen to have a go a Muay Thai so we booked onto a 1.5 hour intro session at a highly rated gym which actually turned out to be one to one. Despite sweating litres it was a great experience and very different to martial arts I’ve done in the past. On the way there we walked though what looked like a very deprived area along a canal. Houses were build from corrugated sheet metal, bamboo and tarp with front doors not more than a garden gate. Mattresses lay on the concrete floor inside a living room, kitchen and bedroom all in one without lighting in some cases. Chairs were always the small children’s coloured plastic kind and they were for those not sitting on the floor often listening to the radio. If such buildings were seen in the UK today there is no way we would expect them to be occupied. Children were sitting around piles of rubbish most likely ridden with insects being by the canal yet despite all this, both children and adults would watch us walk past, smile and say hello to which we’d greet back in Thai. This was a real eye opener especially as not far away is one of the worlds largest shopping malls with an entire floor dedicated to luxury designer jewellery, watches and handbags. Hours before this walk we saw a crowd of individuals sprinting towards a car that had just pulled up right in front of us on our walk back to the hotel. Not knowing what was going on we watched as a couple got out, set up a table and began to hand out free pre-packed meals. Realising what was happening, along the same road we saw possibly hundreds of what could only be assumed homeless individuals and families. Seeing this really puts into perspective what we often consider to be problems.

    As mentioned before Bangkok is a city of such diversity yet the people always have a smile. It’s been a packed five days and an experience I won’t forget. This concludes our time in Thailand and it’s off to Laos in the morning.
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  • Luang Prabang, Laos

    21 Juli 2022, Laos ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    We arrived in Luang Prabang in Laos yesterday afternoon following a short flight from Bangkok. We checked in and headed straight out to the local and popular night market for drinks and dinner. No surprise but the food is similar to Thai which we both love! Luang Prabang is a town in north Laos in the mountainous region along the Mekong river. It looks to have a very friendly feel although very few tourists around.

    This morning we took a scooter to Kuang Si Falls, a famous waterfall in Laos. The 45 minute ride took us through a few rural villages overlooking local farmland and rice terraces. Just riding around is an amazing way to explore despite a 5 minute downpour en route. Thankfully the sun came out soon after and dried us off by the time we arrived.

    After arriving we quickly realised why the waterfall is a sight that can’t be missed. An unusual light turquoise colour, the water was flowing everywhere across many different levels. Wanting to explore more before taking a dip we walked to the top of the waterfall overlooking the mountain range although the views were mostly obstructed by trees unfortunately. The water was quite cold but we went for a swim anyway before climbing around the rocks. The place was stunning, the sights were amazing and another experience we won’t forget.
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  • Exploring Luang Prabang, Laos

    23 Juli 2022, Laos ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    We explored the old town of Luang Prabang today. Every morning at sunrise an alms ceremony takes place along what later becomes the night market street. Off the main road lies smaller backstreet markets, shops (many of which looked to be permanently closed most likely due to the impact covid has had) and temples including the Grand Palace which has now become a museum. Thinking we had the entire palace grounds to ourselves, we later discovered the grounds were actually closed for two hours in the afternoon whilst we were walking around. I guess we entered through a back door.

    In the afternoon we rode to a local park/ garden which included a pretty rough and rocky road for the last few miles - not fun 2 up on a scooter. The grounds looked as if they hadn’t had footfall since pre covid. The park included a treetop walk, waterfalls, stunning views and many unoccupied buildings/ cafes. We even bumped into a group of locals who excitedly asked for a photo with Jess, presumably because Jess has blonde hair.

    We finished the evening with a walk up mount Phosui to see the sunset and ate at the night market which had live music on stage this time. Off to Vang Vieng next, known for its adventure activities.
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  • Vang Vieng, Laos

    25 Juli 2022, Laos ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    4 days in Vang Vieng, Laos’ adventure hub has been filled with all sorts of activities including buggying, kayaking, cave walking and cave tubing, viewpoint trekking, ziplining, lagoon swimming and of course scooting around.

    The town is connected to Luang Prabang via the new Chinese build railway so was only an hour journey compared to the 4-5 hour mountain bus drive pre 2020. On first impressions the town has a wild west feel with its bars set against mountainous backdrops.

    We hired a scooter and took a ride to the west side of Vang Vieng into the valley. Here the roads turn into a dirt tracks and small villages are scattered around the many rice fields. We stopped off at the first blue lagoon to have a swim.

    The next day we rented kayaks and a personal guide who took us down the fast flowing Mekong river stopping off at two caves along the way. The first was a walk through a lit up cave. The second was partly filled with water so we took a tube each and pull ourselves inside along a line. The cave quickly became dark, pitch black without head torches. We walked in further eventually seeing bats hanging and flying around. Afterwards we kayaked back, grabbed some lunch and went to pick up our buggy for the afternoon. We drove far into the valley, really off road stopping at more blue lagoons, including blue lagoon 5 where tourists rarely venture out to being how far off road it is. Presumably because of this, the lagoon was actually shut but still great to explore and the views just driving around were absolutely stunning. Driving through more rural villages we passed groups of cows mooching along the roads giving no care for oncoming vehicles and saw some larger bulls being pulled along by children - an interesting sight.

    The next day we went ziplining consisting of 9 lines and the longest of 380m which was great fun although very hot so afterwards we decided to go back to one of the lagoons to cool off. Hoping to stay out for sunset we decided not to as dark clouds started to form. 10 minutes later lightning was seen not too far away. Rushing back we just missed the storm although 30 minutes later it passed so we left for drinks and dinner that evening.

    The next day we rode around exploring more and trekked to a viewpoint. Again the heat and humidity was very high although the view looking into the valley over the rice fields was worth it. Having walked past a busy looking bar a few times we decided to try it out for the evening. We had great food, actual cider and played pool.

    Vang Vieng is an interesting little place full of activities and beautiful scenery. Off to Vientiane, Laos’ capital, for a short stay before flying out to Vietnam next.
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  • Vientiane, Laos

    28 Juli 2022, Laos ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    Arrived at our pre-booked hotel in Vientiane only to eventually realise the hotel was full. We were unable to communicate with the receptionist at all who displayed nothing but confusion as to why we had arrived at the hotel. Words, gestures, even google translate would not work. After showing everything we could we finally made the decision to leave. Upon turning to leave I heard the word ‘sorry’ from behind, his first word. In excitement and seeing potential, I turned back in an attempt to rectify the situation but without success as I was met with the silence and fumbling we’d seen for the past 20 minutes. Today a memory was made.

    Not far away we found another room for the night. After finally checking in we left for a walk around town and ate dinner. We spent the evening catching up on Vietnam planning ready for the flight in the morning.
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  • Golden Hanoi, Vietnam

    29 Juli 2022, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    Before we left for Asia, we both agreed somewhere along the way we’d treat ourselves to a little bit of luxury. As it turns out this would be in Hanoi, Vietnam. We checked into a rather garishly looking but highly rated 5-star hotel with infinity pool. The place is gold plated everywhere including the exterior. The room is lovely and the bathroom is something else.

    So far Hanoi looks to be a busy place with scooters absolutely everywhere and cars honking 24/7. We walked to a famous train street market along a railway comprising of shops, bars and restaurants. Although we did not see the train, at its sight shop keepers uplift their items laid across the tracks and everyone scrambles to the side making way for the train. I suspect it would be chaos - what health and safety?

    Later on we returned to the hotel to get on top of bookings before making our way to the Old Quarter, Hanoi’s night life. We understand the city has a slow start but ramps up in the evening, so far so true. We took a scooter taxi, both myself and Jess as pillions this time, and what an experience that was! We thought Bangkok was bad enough but Hanoi is something else as even I wouldn’t ride here. The Old Quarter was all hustle and bustle along its narrow streets with music, performances and bars at every sight. We enjoyed some happy hour drinks before finally calling it a night (morning).
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  • Hanoi

    30 Juli 2022, Vietnam ⋅ 🌧 31 °C

    Unlike Bangkok, Hanoi is a city that is difficult to understand. The streets are hectic everywhere as is the traffic. There are very limited pavements so people walk along the road weaving through the many scooters - it is not a city to relax in. Hanoi has its Old Quarter which is very French inspired and more evident during the day before the chaos ensues at night. We spent the last few days exploring the city including lakes, markets, the national military museum, the Chinese inspired temple of literature (Hanoi’s first ‘university’) and even tried Hanoi’s famous egg coffee. I’m not a fan of coffee but was told this should not be compared to regular coffee. The coffee was very thick and creamy and the egg yolk is supposed to remove the bitterness. I’m still not a fan although glad to have tried. It is very common to see an entire street selling goods of the same kind and sometimes pretty unusual goods. For example we’ve seen streets selling nothing but fans, then another selling hot pots then the next selling bespoke motorbike seat covers, sewing machines, pet bedding, lamps and sunglasses (picked up a pair). Odd but ideal if you need a replacement suitcase castor wheel, just head down castor wheel street which will inevitably exist.

    We had booked to move on to Sapa next, a remote northern village where you can see workers on rice terraces set against beautiful mountain scenery. With difficulty travelling there, and being the rainy season (which also means a high chance of fog due to altitude) and reading up more to find out this has become a tourist trap and not what it used to be, we decided to change plans. Although it will be a shame to miss the scenery, it just didn’t feel right so instead we are moving straight onto Halong Bay. Having got the 5-star bug, we decided to book onto a 5-star 2 night/ 3 day cruise around Halong bay. Looking forward to this one!
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  • Jess said Yes 💍

    1 Agustus 2022, Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Today was the day Jess said yes!

    I’d planned this location before our trip began although I knew this may come with a challenge. The viewpoint is the tallest over looking Halong Bay however frustratingly the pathway up was officially closed by the Vietnam council some years ago. Not wanting this to stop me, I read multiple accounts of how to access the route. Many had failed as the main entrance is now permanently gated shut and patrolled by a security guard. However… there must be a way I thought and it turns out there was. To access the viewpoint, the only way is to join the closed off pathway further along however this requires walking through someone’s garden. A small but open blue door resides between two small commercial buildings. Just inside the door was a dog on a short lead. Walking past the dog and up a small set of stairs we were greeted by many barking dogs. I’d read if it looks like you’re in the wrong place, you’re in the right place. Now alerted by the rather intimidating dogs, we met with a lady demanding money to allow us access through her house, through her garden and onto the path. We eventually negotiated a fee so she allowed us through pointing to a ladder at the rear of the garden. In a bit of rush due to being surrounded by the many barking dogs we climbed the ladder, scrabbled up rocks and pushed through overgrown vegetation before finally getting onto the clearly overgrown path. 20 minutes later we arrived at the top to see the most amazing views of Halong Bay.

    There I got down on one knee and asked if Jess would marry me, to which Jess said yes! Despite the dramatic start and challenging trek, we had the perfect spot to ourselves all afternoon to enjoy our moment together.

    We are both really looking forward to celebrating and relaxing on the cruise around Halong Bay over the coming few days.
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  • Ha Long Bay Cruise

    2 Agustus 2022, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    Cruising around Ha Long Bay was just stunning. A great way to relax and enjoy some time together without having to really think. The 3 day trip included excursions and activities such as kayaking, swimming, bamboo boating, exploring Cat Ba Island, sunrise Tai chi and late night squid fishing. Despite these, the highlight for me was simply cruising around enjoying the breathtaking views with Jess.

    The food was amazing albeit a little too much with yesterday’s lunch consisting of 10 different plates and dinner being 5 or 6 courses. The permanent ‘happy hour’ for cocktails helped too!

    The room was lovely looking out onto the water although every now and then you’d be greeted by a local approaching to sell drinks/ snacks off a small dingy. At sunset the light rays would reflect off the still water and glisten on the ceiling.

    While bamboo boating we saw a family of langur monkeys climbing across what looked like a vertical rock face with babies clinging on to the mothers. While cruising, you’d frequently see large jellyfish the size of a exercise balls go past or smaller ones with long tentacles. On the way to Cat Ba island I took a few photos of the scenery and we all heard a loud splash and everyone rushed to look overboard seeing nothing but a large ripple. Fortunately and by complete coincidence I happened to take a photo at the perfect moment and captured a sting ray jumping out of the water just before it landed (picture uploaded). This was the only ray we say.

    The photos just don’t do the bay justice. Everywhere you look you see towering islands covered with vegetation, each different to the one before. Heading out you’d see the horizon way in the distance through the islands and heading in you’d see a glimpse of Ha Long city. To top it off the sunsets were something else too. The first night saw a deep orange and the second a pink glow.

    It was a the perfect way to celebrate our engagement and a memory we won’t forget. Off to central Vietnam next.
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  • Da Nang, 3D Art Museum

    5 Agustus 2022, Vietnam ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

    We arrived in Da Nang, central Vietnam, yesterday evening flying in from Ha Long. Da Nang looks to be a really lovely place so far with a beautiful Miami looking beach that stretches for miles. Saving Da Nang pictures for another upload, we visited a 3D art museum today during a bit of afternoon rain and had some of fun taking photos. The museum had many different halls and rooms all filled with impressive 3D art.Baca selengkapnya

  • Da Nang

    6 Agustus 2022, Vietnam ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

    What a great city Da Nang is. The beach that lines Da Nang is so clean and although I’m sure it can get busy, it wasn’t for us. We arrived late and opted to walk from the airport to our hotel taking just under an hour so we could take in bit of of the city. Not knowing central Vietnamese food, a self proclaimed traditional Da Nang restaurant caught our eye just before crossing the famous dragon bridge (that shoots fire every weekend evening) so we ate there and the food was delicious. The next morning we tried the beach before the clouds arrived around lunch time. This was welcome given the high temperatures with extreme UV that day! We stopped off at the 3D art museum that afternoon. It the evening we decided to return to a night market we’d seen whilst walking to our hotel on the first night. After renting a scooter (for the next 6 days straight) we arrived at the market to try some more street food. Looking like such tourists we were even shown how to eat the food with rice paper after clearly having no clue… we didn’t even ask, they could just tell.

    This morning we rode to Marble Mountains to explore the various caves - some of which were particularly impressive. Afterwards we rode the Hai Van Pass (those who’ve watch the Top Gear Vietnam special will know) and thankfully the rain held off albeit a little cloudy. Clarkson named this route “a deserted ribbon of perfection—one of the best coast roads in the world” and I can see why. Although a short route, the views were something else.

    This evening we took a sunset stroll along the beach and had a surprisingly good stone baked pizza from a mobile van. Remembering we are in central Vietnam in a city known for its great seafood, we decided to try some fresh seafood for dinner and enjoyed scallops, king prawns and crab.
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  • Tailors of Hoi An

    7 Agustus 2022, Vietnam ⋅ 🌧 31 °C

    This morning was spent on Da Nang beach before check-out. The beach was calm with a gentle breeze, few people around and some locals fishing in Vietnamese basket boats. We packed our bags, got on our trusty scooter and left for the smaller city of Hoi An, a UNESCO world heritage site, about 40 minutes south of Da Nang.

    This time we checked into a homestay (fewer than five rooms) and the host was very welcoming on arrival. Arriving early the room was being tidied so the host sat us down and went through local activities and things to do. Soon after we walked to Hoi An old town which has both Chinese and Japanese influence. The streets are pedestrianised and full of colour with bright lanterns hanging above. However what really stands out are the number of tailors around. Hoi An has hundreds of tailor shops, most in the old town, and they are absolutely everywhere often filing entire streets. They appear to make anything from fabric or leather; suits, dresses, trousers, shoes, bags, wallets etc. We shortlisted some of the highest rated tailors and went in for a chat about what they could offer. Sure enough all could make everything we wanted so we decided to go with the tailors that offered the best service, best materials and gave us the best overall feel.

    I went for two 3-piece full cashmere suits and Jess went for a few tailored dresses and blazers. Each 3-piece tailored suit, tailored shirt and tie cost £115 in the end… not bad. After getting measured up we were told to come back for the first fitting the following day. Looking forward to this!

    While there I thought I’d also ask if they could repair my broken sandals. They couldn’t but said if I leave the sandals with them, they’ll sort it with another shoe shop. This would cost £2-£4 apparently.

    We ended the evening walking over the glowing bridge along the river which was filled with brightly lit boats and lanterns floating along in the breeze. Again, the photos just don’t do it justice but it was an amazing sight while listening to live music and drinking cocktails.
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  • Rainy Hoi An

    8 Agustus 2022, Vietnam ⋅ 🌧 28 °C

    It hasn’t stopped raining for two days now but nonetheless it’s a lovely place. We spent some more time wondering the old town streets looking in shops and enjoyed some hot chocolate over lunch. It’s not uncommon for small restaurants to serve a very small selection of food. We had a choice of two local dishes and both were delicious.

    Afterwards we stopped off at a heritage museum put together by a French photographer who now lives in Hoi An. He’s spend years travelling and meeting the 54 ethnicities present in Vietnam. The museum tells his story and details accounts and experiences about each group showing their traditional tribal clothing against his photography. A very insightful project and interesting to read.

    The first suit fitting went well with only a few alterations needing to be made. Really please with how they’re looking so far and I’m still amazed at the speed at which these are tailored. Broken sandals update: repaired.

    Today we spent the morning planning ahead a little then rode out to another UNESCO heritage site called My Son Sanctuary, a Hindu temple complex constructed over ten centuries between the 4th and 13th century. Not many people were around so we could wonder freely. It was nice to see but wouldn’t rush to return however.

    This evening we treated ourselves to a good old burger and fries. I didn’t have high expectations but it was actually amazing and would rival a high end western burger. We wondered the streets once more and came across a busy little shop selling a drink called ‘Mot’. No idea what is was so we gave it a try. I’m not sure how to describe the drink but it’s a sweet herbal/ fruity drink served over ice drank through a bamboo straw and it was delicious! After one sip we turned around to buy another without hesitation.
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  • Last Night in Hoi An

    10 Agustus 2022, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    Tonight is our final night in Hoi An. We started this morning with a guided tour around the local markets ahead of a cooking class. The guide explained to us that at 3am the animals are culled, at 5am the meat is cut, at 6am the meat arrives at the market and at 7am the market opens and the meat is good until 10am. After that the meat goes half price due to the heat or gets cooked ready for lunch/dinner that day. We then took a basket boat tour and had some fun catching small purple clawed crabs (not to eat). We cooked five dishes and learnt how to make rice paper from scratch using a technique passed on to the chef as a child before electricity came to his village in 1996. We made fresh spring rolls using the rice paper, banana flower salad with prawn, pho bo, crispy pork pancake and aubergine with soy sauce.

    Afterwards we rode to a farming village watching locals cultivate their crops although this was more comparable to an allotment being such small scale.

    After walking the evening market streets one last time we came across an unbelievably smiley local in an oversized NY baseball cap selling a few dishes from her food truck. No idea why but we just couldn’t stop smiling around her so we enjoyed a banana pancake and a donut from the truck. Walking past later on she recognised us and asked if we wanted another to which we didn’t however on the third pass later still we decided to. I noticed myself using the two skewers served with the pancake as chop sticks half way through to which we both laughed at.

    We finished the evening with another drink of mot. When speaking to the guys running the small shop, they apparently get through 3000 cups a day - not bad at 50p each. After showing an interest in how the guys pour the drink so dramatically they invited me to have a go. It wasn’t a complete disaster but a bit of fun.
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  • Nha Trang

    13 Agustus 2022, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    We took a late flight from Da Nang to Nha Trang followed by a bus to our hotel. We didn’t get in until 10pm so we grabbed some food and went straight to bed.

    This morning we rented a scooter and rode to Thap Ba mud bath and hot springs. The ‘treatment’ goes something like this: change into their swimwear and shower off first. Then they fill a bath tub with hot mud where you soak for 20 minutes. Unlike mud baths we’ve done before, this one wasn’t too bad. After 20 minutes you get out and dry off in the sun until brown and crispy then you shower off again and walk through what they call a hydrotherapy tunnel. This is no more than a tunnel with lots of high pressure water jets shooting inwards and boarderline painful! You’re then greeted with a hot mineral soak for 3 minutes in a large jacuzzi before finally relaxing in another hot still bath for 30 minutes. Given the water temperature was around 40C I’d have welcomed a bit of cool air but it was hot and clear blue sky. Finally there were swimming pools to relax by while out on the sun beds after the treatment. The largest pool was also heated to 38C but we stayed in the cooler pools floating around on inner tubes.

    Given the clear blue skies, the afternoon was spent on the beach until after sunset this time. Similar to Da Nang, Nha Trang is also a big city along an east facing coastline backed with palm trees. Later that evening we wondered another night market although this one was actually quite underwhelming so we decided to head towards a beach club we’d seen on the first evening on the beach front. With music blaring, lights flashing and fire dancers dancing we couldn’t say no so ordered a pitcher to share although unlike Koh Phi Phi, we did manage to get home in one piece this time!

    The following morning we explored Ponagar Cham Towers in Nha Trang, another very old trio of Hindu temples. Not too much to see but pretty amazing considering they were build over 1300 years ago. Lastly we stopped off at the central shopping mall. Not mush to say but interestingly we found genuine motorcycle helmets being sold right beside children’s toys. Not only that but the helmets cost less than a bottle of non whitening body lotion we eventually found and bought.

    A short stop but worth seeing if only for a few days. We now head to Dalat, a mountainous region 1500m above sea level making it cooler than any place we’ve been so far. In fact I’m laying here right now on our first sleeper bus travelling though central Vietnamese mountains as I write. One hour down, three to go!
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  • Da Lat

    14 Agustus 2022, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    The sleeper bus from Nha Trang to Da Lat was actually a success. I didn’t really sleep as it was mid afternoon but was able to lay back and relax in the four hours the journey took. Given the route was through twisting mountainous roads I didn’t expect much comfort and although cosy, I was pleasantly surprised.

    Da Lat is a high altitude city, the largest of Vietnams central highlands region and as expected was much cooler that the rest of Asia and quite refreshing. We arrived late afternoon and went straight to check-in. This was unfortunately the first time we opened the doors to a hotel room and were disappointed despite the £6 a night cost. Thinking it’ll be fine as we are only here for 3 nights we ignored the issues and left to explore. While wondering around we decided we should change rooms so asked around until we found a nice little homestay for the same price per night. We checked out the room and it was much nicer. With that off our minds, we walked the market and enjoyed some BBQ skewers for dinners. Da Lat is a really busy city around the central area just off the lake. While walking the lake, Jess was asked for another photo so happily obliged of course. We weren’t sure why this time as although few there were other tourists around.

    The following day we rented a scooter to head out into the mountains and explore. First we stopped off at a very busy looking bakery just by our hotel for breakfast and also got some delicious freshly made Vietnamese chicken baguettes for lunch costing a little over 60p each. It turns out Lien Hoa, the bakery, is busy from morning right until late evening and it’s easy to see why! They sell all sorts of pastries, cakes, breads and desserts, not to mention their subway style fresh baguettes. Heading south riding past Datanla waterfalls, we saw the popular cable car strung across two peaks. Knowing there was a downhill coaster near the cable car, we changed path and headed in that direction in the hopes of finding it. Luckily we did so decided to stop and have a go forgetting it was a Sunday however. Tickets were reasonable but the queue was not although that was our fault for choosing a Sunday. Nevertheless after an hour or so we got on and had a blast… for about 15 seconds until we caught up to the guy in front. With his camera out, I’m sure he was filming a timelapse though the woods instead of enjoying the ride. Jess wouldn’t let me nudge him so we sat behind and enjoyed the scenery. Thankfully there were two parts to the coaster and luckily he wondered off before we got onto the next. This time we enjoyed the ride! Minutes before the final ascent back up the rain came and stayed for an hour or so. We stayed dry before finally deciding to continue our mountain ride and luckily within minutes the rain stopped! The first route was south around Tuyen Lam Lake only taking an hour and as you’d expect the views were amazing! Heading back towards Da Lat, we decided to carry on riding and this time rode north towards another mountain range. Taking an hour and a half this route was just as stunning. We saw miles of industrial greenhouses spread across the valley in what looks like a huge agricultural production area. These mainly grow vegetables, flowers and fruits and is a major center of agriculture throughout the country.

    After the ride, we returned to Da Lat and stopped off at the Linh Phuoc Pagoda. This mosaic looking complex was built from glass debris, old pottery and porcelain pieces back in 1952. The buildings are impressive featuring Vietnams largest bell weighing 8.5 tonnes, a dragon made of 12,000 beer bottles and a 17m high lady Buddha made from 650,000 immortal flowers. Below the complex was also an interesting area selling marble and wooden dining sets for upwards of £15k, random??

    Finally getting back we left for dinner and enjoyed Mexican burritos and quesadillas for a dinner beside a pair of blue parrots. 10 minutes in the parrots decided to attack the couple next to us flapping on their heads and over their dinner. The girl ran out screaming ‘f**k this s**t’ as the staff walked over to put the parrots back. The solution: give the parrots some seeds and move the couple one table across. Needless to say our state of relaxation lessened especially when our food came out.

    Lastly we left for a nice cocktail bar with games and live music all night. On the way home I walked past a vendor selling a Da Lat specialty - a hot, sweet soy milk drink. It wasn’t bad!
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  • Canyoning Da Lat

    15 Agustus 2022, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Hotel pickup at 8.30am ready for a day of canyoning around Datanla Falls just south of Da Lat. We got kitted up and started the session with a briefing and straight into the first activity - abseiling to a zipline point with a water slide landing. We then did an 18m abseil, a short jungle trek, water sliding, cliff jumping, a 25m waterfall abseil and the finale - the ‘washing machine’. Health and safety wasn’t quite up to UK standards but we made it through. The highlight was the 25m waterfall abseil consisting of three parts. The first a very slippery but slow abseil down, followed by the middle high flow zone until the final drop into the plunge pool, great fun! The last activity named the washing machine was also interesting. Starting as a small abseil until the cliff overhangs you then lower yourself into the water flow and drop off the line. The water flow pulls you down into a turbulent pool and spits you out. “During this time, there will be about 3-4 seconds where the tourists are completely plunged underwater and cannot recognise direction. Physiological preparation and breath holding should be made necessary” as kindly written at the top. Overall a great excursion!

    Evening dinner was a BBQ which was delicious. We ventured out a little further this time wanting to try some Da Lat specialties but really struggled with the language barrier. It turned out the BBQ we wanted was finished for the night but google translate wasn’t on our side this time. I can’t remember the full conversation and wish google translate had saved it but we did remember one of the literal translations from the lady serving us ‘turn the corner and tickle the cows ass tonight’. Desperately trying not to laugh we both figured we couldn’t get the BBQ and left but did enjoy the same dish elsewhere.

    The following morning we left to visit the Crazy House in Da Lat. Now mostly a tourist attraction with accommodation this started as an architectural project and grew. Difficult to describe but the buildings consist of organic structures and look like something from a cartoon. We had hoped to finish with a pedalo on the lake before departure but struggled with airport transfers. The airport shuttle bus ‘may arrive 2 hours before every flight’ at a stop outside a hotel. Speaking to reception of said hotel they suggested the shuttle bus stop had moved to an unknown location, thanks.

    Da Lat is Vietnams answer to a French alps community. It’s surrounded by mountainous views, filled with colourful French inspired buildings and even has an amazing bakery. I’d recommend Da Lat to anyone visiting Vietnam and would stay longer if we could but our next stop is Ho Chi Minh, Vietnams biggest city!
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  • Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam War

    16 Agustus 2022, Vietnam ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    Hi Chi Minh is described as the larger more modern version of Hanoi which so far looks to be true. We arrived late evening but had time to eat in a local courtyard near our hotel.

    The following morning we rented a scooter. The roads are no less busy than Hanoi but there is slightly less of a chaotic feel to the roads. The roads are by no means relaxed but do feel manageable so we left for the Independence Palace, the ex home of the president pre Vietnam war. Now open to the public, the building has little use but remains a significant historical building. On 30 April 1975, a northern Vietnamese tank finally crashed through the front gates of the grounds effectively ending the war.

    Our second stop was the War Remnants Museum detailing the war and various accounts. Upon entering the museum you walk through an area showing the Vietnamese ‘tiger cages’. There are small cages covered in barbed wire used to detain up to 7 people at once in the prisons. Difficult to see and read the detailed accounts of how the north/south Vietnamese treated each other during the war but very informative. Inside the museum details more about the war including the use of the toxic chemical agent orange containing dioxin. 45 million litres of this devastating chemical was sprayed over 24% of south Vietnamese farmland, villages and cities to kill all vegetation and food supply but more importantly is estimated to have effected over 3 million individuals. Short term direct expose causes skin burning and blistering, second hand exposure causes serious illness but long term effects include cancers and severe physical and mental defects. Not only that but an estimated 150,000 babies were born with serious birth defects and millions are still effected today as effects can be passed down through generations. Very saddening to learn about but really eye opening. Fortunately all remaining stock was destroyed in 1978 with no suggestion any more exists today other than in a few highly concentrated areas still being actively decontaminated to this day.

    Soon after we rode to explore a few other landmarks including the pink cathedral, central office and the Notre Dame towers albeit hidden behind scaffolding and out of sight. The evening was spend mooching around enjoying street food and a bit of Ho Chi Minh’s night life.
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  • Ho Chi Minh, Cu Chi Tunnels

    18 Agustus 2022, Vietnam ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    Another early morning for a day trip to the Cu Chi tunnels, north of Ho Chi Minh. The Cu Chi tunnels are a huge network of underground tunnels build in the late 1940’s during the war against the French and later extended during the Vietnam war. The tunnels, spanning many levels and totalling over 250km, were used for hiding, launching surprise attacks, storing weapons, medical treatment and living. Conditions underground were described as boarder-line unbearable (rodents, insects, heat, lack of food and water, darkness and not to mention their size). We crawled through 40m of tunnels made wider for tourists, with some lighting and airflow and despite that, 5 minutes was enough. We also saw a range of various jungle traps that would have been buried in the floor, hung on doors, attached to trees or hidden inside fake tunnels entrances. It was not dissimilar the stuff from Rambo!

    Later that afternoon we retuned to the city and left to watch the sunset. As usual photos never do sunsets justice but it was a good one setting over the skyline. We walked the main boulevard eating street food and then rode out to explore a little further. Without a clue where we were going we eventually came across a busy set of back streets all connected with more street food vendors, this time having a very local vibe. Sure enough we tried some more food which was delicious.

    We finally arrived back to the hotel and decided to have a night out so showered off and left at 11pm for a night down Bui Vien street with a seemingly never ending happy hour!
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  • Ho Chi Minh, Vietnamese Medicine

    19 Agustus 2022, Vietnam ⋅ 🌧 30 °C

    A bit of a delicate start to the morning following the long night before but we dragged ourselves out and rode to the Museum of Traditional Medicine. This was a highly rated museum and although full of artefacts, it didn’t go into much detail. It was more of a showcase without much explanation. Nonetheless, good to see and understand how important various herbs and plants had been for historic medicine up until relatively recently. It was also interesting to understand how Vietnam and China were effectively competing against one another in the medical field and therefore built on each other’s success to become one of the global leading countries in medicine, although this could be self proclaimed. Lastly and where historic medicine perhaps looses some of its credibility considering modern day treatment is the significance of two fundamental factors. One, ‘Yin and Yang’ describing the importance between opposite human states such as hot-cold, deficiency-excess etc. Two, describing the importance of the five elements within the body. Major organs are grouped into the elements of water, wood, fire, earth, and metal. These five elements have close connections, which means if a person has one weak element, it will lead to an excess of another one and must be treated accordingly. Not sure I’m sold, then again this isn’t my area. Interesting.

    After the museum, we left for the Bitexco Skydeck to watch the sunset. Ho Chi Minh has a few observation points, the Bitexco tower at 264m high and more impressively the Landmark 81 at 461m high (Vietnams tallest building). We opted for the Bitexco tower as this looks out over central Ho Chi Minh (District 1), where we had stayed. The views were good although due to lower air quality, the fringes of the city blurred into a white haze quite quickly. Not quite as impressive as the previous night, the sunset was still good to see however.

    We walked past a more up-market looking clothes market so stopped off where Jess got a top. Jess was absolutely delighted to be told she was a size large by Asian standards after being measured up! In the market grounds caged away was an archery class going on and just outside in the car park was a martial arts class… coincidence.
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  • Ho Chi Minh, Mekong Delta

    20 Agustus 2022, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Another early hotel pickup for a day tour of the Mekong Delta. The Mekong river is 4350km long and starts in China and flows through Myanmar, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam. The Mekong has a huge range of marine life second only to the Amazon river and includes the giant freshwater stingray and giant catfish. Over 60 million people depend on it for food. The Mekong Delta is a huge network of tributaries in south Vietnam home to over 20 million people.

    After a boat ride to the first island, our Mekong delta tour started with a honey and lime drink and crispy banana snacks both of which were made by locals and tasted delicious. We tried snake wine, which was actually snake vodka and was less delicious however. Next we walked past a lady holding a snake for tourists to hold. After seeing how this snake was lifted from a small empty cage, we opted to skip that activity. Relatively minor but that was no way to keep an animal so as per any other involvement with poorly kept animals (which still remains very common across south east Asia today) or elephant riding etc, we gave that one a miss. We then took a small boat ride to the next stop where we learnt how locals use coconuts to make sweets by reducing coconut water/ milk with natural coconut sugars and extracted coconut oils to form a fudge like sweet. It was delicious! Not only that but the coconut plant is used for building, fibres for rope making, shells for burning (used to boil the milk) and the remains ground up and used as a fertiliser back for the coconut trees - a good life cycle! They also made other coconut sweets and crispy biscuits which were good so we bought a box. Afterwards we continued the boat ride to the next island where we stopped for lunch and we’re able to explore by bicycle. The island was full of vegetation but without any real infrastructure. Again very eye opening to see how locals live, even more so considering this was likely the most touristy part of the Mekong delta being closest to Hi Chi Minh City. Something I found interesting while exploring was that a local had constructed a ‘barded wire’ like fence around his bricked property made using scrap bandsaw blades - why not I guess? On the way back we stopped off to see a small temple complex and got conned with chicken baguette that was no more than a breadstick! One last street food dinner in the evening ready for an early 7.00am bus ride to Cambodia!

    Ho Chi Minh is a bustling city with a slight western feel if anything, albeit far from western culture. Vietnam is an amazing country full regional of differences from the food we’ve eaten to the landscapes we’ve seen and the history we’ve learnt. From the manic streets of Hanoi, Miami like beach strips, vibrant old towns, high altitude cities and modern skylines, Vietnam has it all! It does lag behind Thailand somewhat but I have no doubt it will continue to grow and attract more and more people in the future. Vietnam is maybe not for everyone, but we’ve really enjoyed seeing yet another way of living.

    Update: we successfully crossed the Cambodian boarder and are now on our way to the capital - Phnom Penh. Cambodia will be a little shorter that we had planned due to a late flight cancellation to Indonesia with few alternatives but nonetheless should be really interesting.
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  • Scooting Around Again, HCM

    20 Agustus 2022, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Just a few videos…

    No contact was made.
    Yes they do ride on both the pavement and opposite side of the road.
    Yes roundabouts are a free for all.
    Green means go, amber means go, red means go but a little slower… if you can.
    They NEVER look when pulling out to join the road.
    If you don’t fill the gap, they will!
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  • Cambodia, Killing Fields

    21 Agustus 2022, Kamboja ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Arrived by bus from Ho Chi Minh to Phnom Penh, Cambodia with a successful boarder crossing and managed to avoid an on-bus scam. A guy walked on board asking to see our Covid vaccination status. He said we’d need physical printed copies to show police else we wouldn’t be able to cross - e-copies/ apps would not be allowed. Having read countless online articles about boarder crossings in Cambodia, the number one rule is to ignore everyone unless they are official boarder control. I could see this man selling SIM cards prior to boarding the bus so figured he was not official. Anyway we ignored him but others did not and ended up paying a small fee to him so he could print their covid passes ready to show police ahead. Long story short, he never returned and there were no police. It’s a real shame the bus company let him on board to cause evident disruption but I suspect they may have been in on it too.

    Only a quick stop in Phnom Penh but we really wanted to see and understand the terrible history suffered by Cambodians in the 1970’s under the Khmer Rouge regime. I’ll leave the detail out of this one but in short over 3 million Cambodians (men, women and children, commonly entire families) were executed during a 4 year period between 1975-1979 out of a then population of 10 million. We visited one of the largest prisons in Phnom Penh (S21 prison) that used to be a school. Here, over 18,000 people were tortured then killed on site or sent to be killed in the killing fields. Of the 18,000, 8 survived of which 3 were there on site during our visit! Hearing about the prison and the acts that were committed through our guide was very difficult but vital in understanding the atrocities that happened in the not too distant past. It fact photos show a disturbingly small single digit number of key individuals behind the movement standing trail in modern day courts. Unbelievably, the trials of the Khmer Rouge regime only began in 2006 and were finally concluded last year - incredibly disturbing in its own right!

    The following day we visited Choeung Ek Genocidal Center. This is one of the largest of the 19,000 killing fields scattered all over Cambodia and linked most directly to S21 prison. So many mass graves were excavated in this particular killing field, one of which uncovered over 450 victims in an area no more than the size of a large driveway. Again, I will leave the detail out but this killing field was a must visit to understand the incredibly dark history of Cambodia.
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  • Angkor Wat, Cambodia I

    23 Agustus 2022, Kamboja ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    We arrived in Siam Reap after a 6 hour mini van ride from Phnom Penh. Unlike the comfortable bus we’d previously taken to Phnom Penh, this journey was something else. The first sight of the battered old mini van sent shivers down our spine but that’s okay, it may be okay on I’m the inside. Wrong! To make matters even worse we were allocated the back seats. A bolt upright seat, if you could even call it that, without any neck support crammed shoulder to shoulder and without air con (travelling in afternoon sun)! The journey was a nightmare and never have I been so excited for the next toilet stop.

    Angkor temple complex in Siam Reap, Cambodia is a 400 km2 area containing a vast number of temples built during the 9th-15th century and contains the largest religious monument in the world, Angkor Wat which was built in the 12th century. The site is typically visited over a three day period although as we’re pushed for time we opted for a two day pass.

    We started the morning with Sovann, our private tuk tuk driver picking us up at 9am from our hotel. We booked him for 2 days and were happy to accept his daily rate of $20/ £16. He took us to drop of laundry then out to breakfast before taking us to sort Angkor Wat tickets. We started the ‘short loop’ day tour at 11am and began with the main temple Angkor Wat.

    The temple was just stunning although I’m not surprised as it took over 300,000 people 35 years to construct. Every square inch of every block showed extreme detail, all carved by hand. The architecture was phenomenal, becoming even more impressive the further into the complex you walk. The central temple is built raised from the ground and the central tower built raised even further. It was impossible to capture the entire temple (google Angkor Wat aerial photography) but walking through the grounds gave an appreciation for the immense scale. We wondered for hours and could easily spend hours more. Unbelievably complex by modern day standards let alone being built in the 12th century.

    Following Angkor Wat we spent the afternoon driving from one complex to another including Bayon temple and Ta Prohm Temple (Lara Croft: Tomb Raider). Each temple built differently but clearly a family showing similarities despite being built over a 600 year period. Like Angkor Wat, all temples were stunning and we wish we could have stayed longer. We ended the day at Phnom Bakeng, a 60m high mountain temple to watch the sunset before Sovann finally dropped us off at 7pm.

    The evening was spent at Pub Street enjoying rice and noodle street food for $1.50 however an early night was on the table as we wanted to watch the sunrise over Angkor Wat.

    The following morning Sovan picked us up at 4.40am so we could get to the temple for sunrise. It was a little strange walking around the temple corridors in darkness however, we made our way to the temple front beside a pond facing east ready for the sunrise. Unfortunately the sky was mostly covered in cloud but despite this the sunrise turned the sky orange and pink.

    After spending another few hours around Angkor Wat, we continued the tour this time around the ‘big loop’. Again, each temple was impressive and one a home to a family of monkeys that had an interest in Jess and I. You can imagine Jess’ face when a small monkey suddenly jumped on her!

    An absolutely beautiful temple complex and I would genuinely recommend a visit to Cambodia just to see this alone.

    Lots more photos and videos to follow and I’ll add a few video clips to this post later on.
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