NZ Roadtrip

June - July 2020
A 36-day adventure by Richard Read more
  • 13footprints
  • 1countries
  • 36days
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  • 1.7kkilometers
  • Day 26

    Milford Sound, NZ

    June 30, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Milfiord Sun.

    Sounds like a fiord, looks like a fiord, and is found in - you know it - Fiordland. The fact that Milford Sound remains incorrectly named is the most preposterous show of cartographical incompetence since Captain Cook gave Banks an Island. And the rest of them - Doubtful, Dusky, Sutherland, to name a few - are no more excusable. Piopiotahi you have my vote.

    The closest I've been to Milford Sound is an old canvas painting that used to hang on the wall in Baa's living room. It's a reflection of Mitre Peak from the head of Milford Sound - and it comes with Baa's claim to fame: she was the first woman to reach the summit. Now Baa's claim has not been founded and if you're lucky enough to catch her on a few savvy blancs, she might just admit her attempt fell a few feet short. Nonetheless, her story stands and that old oil painting shows Mitre Peak today no less impressively than #mitrepeak would retrieve on Instagram. That's not something to be taken lightly when the old rock sees over half a million visitors per year!

    Another thing Milford sees plenty of is rain. Unbelievable quantities of rain. Rainy Auckland sees on average about 1.3m per year (maybe not this year...); Milford sees 6.5m per year and if it hasn't had rain in 10 days, they're in drought. Having driven all the way from Queenstown in some rather damp conditions, when we drove through the Homer Tunnel into sunshine, spirits were soaring and our jaws on the floor. We'd nailed it! The irony was that Milford Sound's reknowned waterfalls were running at all time lows, some not even existent. Waterfall schmaterfall, we'll take sun.

    We'd scored a cheap deal on what turned out to be a very empty cruise. No doubt ready to cater for those half a million tourists, Milford Sound cruises were by far the most visibly impacted tourism business we've come across to date. But they were still operating, so there's hope...I guess.

    Milford put on a show for us that day, no doubt. Stunning scenery and entertaining commentary made the time fly, and we're keen to come back for the Milford Track, to tame Mitre Peak and for some pacific cray hunting one day. All said, we were very much 'shown' Milford Sound this time.

    We departed back into the rain for a night in a cosy Te Anau air bnb. It seemed like forever waiting for the sun to rise the next moring, but by 8.30 we were able to head our for an icy run to the start of the Kepler track.

    Manapouri's finest cafe took care of the rest of the morning, as we set up for a few hours work which succumbed to heavy distraction as we observed the coming and goings of the locals.

    A short and sweet swoop into the deep south, lwft much to be desired. We'll be back.
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  • Day 28

    Queenstown II, NZ

    July 2, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 0 °C

    More ski.

    We went back to Coronet Peak for more action on the slopes. Our luck with the weather and snow continued and we had an awesome two days skiing (yes, I actually skied this time Mungo). The snowmakers were in full force for the school holidays prep and our plans to finish up on Friday were bloody well done if I can say so myself.

    Our plans to see Fox Glacier were foiled by the super rain which took out most of the country, but being the jammy rain dodgers we are, we escaped east through a narrow window and left behind rain and crowds.

    Not much else happened in Queenstown this time round as we battled old age in a young peoples sport.
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  • Day 32

    Hanmer Springs, NZ

    July 6, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Boulders and bites.

    It feels like we've pulled the rip cord. After four weeks of meandering south, we've uprooted from Queenstown and in less than 24 hours we've made it to Hamner Springs. Within the week, we'll be back in Auckland which means plenty of driving, the same amount of work and a lot less activity. But not for trying!

    The Moeraki boulders was our first stop out of Queenstown. The eerie grey clouds we left behind were no less grey, the air temperature only slightly warmer and the wind, much stronger. Combine that with a high tide, which covered much of the famed boulders and you have a very unexceptional trip out of Otago. My enthusiasm for rocks, apparently uncontagious. Must have been the hand sanitiser.

    We took a more eventful break at a winery off SH1 just south of Christchurch in an effort to add some fulfillment to our day. In the kerfuffle of an entry that we made, Cat was bitten by a dog. Her only conceivable mistake was perhaps that she was a Cat, and had presumably crossed some kind of doggone boundary. Shock was rife, if not that she had just been bitten, but of all the animals we have petted, played and parted, this tame farm dog would be the one to bite. The result was a couple of bloody fingers and very awkward introduction to the owners, who had witnessed the whole thing and were now attempting to remediate the situation with pawpaw, plasters and wine. It was from then on, a very personable and hospitable tasting-turned-local-history-lesson, sealed with a verbal and bottled apology.

    More irony was waiting for us in Christchurch with a yelping, jumping, barking Bella taking some time to warm to after recent events. We'd caught Hamish and Kasia between soccer games, half marathons and house warmings, so we made an agreement to babysit the dog in exchange for a night's accommodation. As we pulled out of the driveway for Hanmer Springs the next morning, with Bella whining at the window, I hope I speak for Cat and I, that we still like dog's but prefer Cats?

    Two things surprised me about Hanmer Springs, and neither of them are even mildy interesting. The first is the order of the 'm' and 'n' in the word Hanmer, which would more commonly be found reversed, and is easier to say when reversed. Hence perhaps why it can be said either way, just so long as its pronounced with sufficient brevity to create ambiguity. The second surprise is that it's in the foothills of the alps, as opposed to the Canterbury plains, where it appears to be located when viewed at a distance on a non-contoured map as obviously, I had only seen before. Unsurprised? No surprise.

    What is surely unsurprising to us all, is that Hanmer is famous for hot springs, which have underpinned the now substantial adventure tourism hub it has become. I managed to convince Cat, recovering from skiing injuries, a burn and a dog bite, that her injuries couldn't get much worse and she should come mountain biking in the mud. Unbelievably, they didn't, which is a testament to her skills alone, as I foolishly led her up and down some trails which are considered advanced on the best of days, when they didn't look like waterslides. We brought plenty of mud and all of our dignity back into town and made a quick transition into the hot pools. What mountain biking didn't do to her, the hot pools did: miss accident prone skinning a knee on her first slide!

    Aside from the slides, and the kilometres walked getting around that complex (it's rather large), the pools were very relaxing. The only thing missing was the David Attenborough commentary which had unlimited potential, given the quantity and variety of human like creatures lurking about.

    Work filled Monday for Cat. I'm taking a holiday from my holiday - making the most of a lull in the workload. Stuffed full of souvlaki, I severely underestimated Mt Isobel and my plan run turned into a walk / climb in what was a stunning venue. Snow, ice and hurricane force winds were also on the list of underestimations.

    That aside, it was a very relaxing wee stop. Highly recommend!
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