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Jordan and Lebanon

noviembre - diciembre 2021
  • skip's retirement travel
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  • skip's retirement travelskip's retirement travelJordan and Lebanon

    Old Tyre Port

    29 de noviembre de 2021, Líbano ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Much like the Roman Byzantine Tyre post, this part of the city adjacent to the waterfront is ruins. However, the importance of Tyre is in it's maritime history.
    The 1st picture looks along the section of the Cardo Maximus at the port. This view looks towards the Mediterranean and the city's now mostly submerged harbor. The 2nd picture looks across the harbor. If you look closely you can just see the tops of a rock structure above the waterline. It is likely that this is part of the breakwater the protected the ancient harbor.
    The 3rd picture is of a church. You can see the apse to the left. In the background is the Roman bath. The hypostyle structure for heating is visible.
    The 4th picture is an unusual square stadium. I haven't been able to find anything about what this is about.
    The last picture looks across another part of the ruined port. I hope you are getting a sense of how beautiful this place is.    Leer más

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  • skip's retirement travelskip's retirement travelJordan and Lebanon

    Sidon's Souk

    29 de noviembre de 2021, Líbano ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    This is one of the best examples of a traditional middle eastern souk or market in Lebanon. If you've been reading these posts, you probably know I really enjoy the marvelous messiness, the glorious chaos, the energy of these places. Unfortunately, much of Lebanon's business takes Mondays off. So here are some looks at the vaulted souk on a quiet day.
    The 1st 2 pictures look at very different streets in the souk. The inner parts of the market are vaulted like the 1st picture with small shops and workshops; outer streets are more open with larger shops.
    The 3rd and 4th pictures look at a couple small shops and a covered alley. The 3rd picture is a bakery, and the 4th looks past an accessories shop into a "clothing street". These souks are generally organized such that similar products are grouped together.
    The 5th picture is a shell of a Murex snail. This is the source of the very expensive "royal purple" dye that was so coveted back then. There seems to be a debate as to whether the dye and the process of extraction was discovered in Tyre or Sidon. Fact is, I see that as immaterial as both cities became incredibly wealthy from the trade.
    The last picture is of St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Church, dating to the 8th century, that was closed. Of interest to someone like me is that I'm told that the church incorporates a 1st century room where the apostles Peter and Paul met in 58 CE when Paul was being transported to Rome. It is said to be a coincidence that Peter was there.    Leer más

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  • skip's retirement travelskip's retirement travelJordan and Lebanon

    Sidon Sea Castle

    29 de noviembre de 2021, Líbano ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Probably the 1st thing you see in Sidon is the Sea Castle. This castle was built by the crusaders in the 13th century on an island just off the coast of Sidon. Today it is connected to the mainland by a narrow causeway. What was on the island before the crusaders arrived remains unclear. One possibility is a temple to Marqart, a local god. Another thought is that the ancient King's palace was here.
    The 1st picture is of the castle from the shore near the causeway. The tower to the left was built by the Mamluks after they routed the crusaders. The 2nd picture looks to the castle along the causeway. This was also built by the Mamluks.
    As you can see, this is a small castle, especially when compared to Karak in Jordan (see other post). Regardless of size, every crusaders castle had to have 2 things: it had to be defensible; and they had to build a church. Being on an island answers the 1st criterion. The 2nd can be seen in the 3rd picture, though the church was converted to a mosque, which is what the small done shows.
    The 4th picture is part of what remains of the castle structure. The 5th picture looks across to the mosque where it sits on the raised platform. The last picture is taken inside the tower built by the Mamluks pointed out in the 1st picture.    Leer más

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  • skip's retirement travelskip's retirement travelJordan and Lebanon

    Ain Jar

    30 de noviembre de 2021, Líbano ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Ancient Ain Jar (modern Anjar) is the only Umayyad city in Lebanon. It was founded in the early 8th century but lasted only about 50 years until the founder died and his heirs fought over the city, destroying it. It remained abandoned and buried until the early 20th century when Armenian refugees escaping the genocide settled here. They found the ruins when they started digging foundations for homes.
    Ain Jar means water source of flowing water and was named for the abundant water here. The Umayyads settled here for the water and proximity to Damascus, their home. (It's less than 7 km to the Syrian border.)
    As they had little if any knowledge of planning, engineering or construction, they hired Romans and Byzantines to build their city. Hence they have very Roman city: entirely on a grid with walls, defensive towers etc.
    The 1st picture looks along the Cardo Maximus or main street. There would have been a colonnade on both side with shops on the ground floor and residences above. I'm told there were 285 shops here. If you look closely, you can see openings along the center of the street. This is the 8th century drainage system that still works
    The 2nd picture is the grand palace we're the city was administered and the founder like bed. The 3rd picture is a niche in the Palace courtyard where a guard would stand. You can just make out the carvings of palm trees and camels, the symbols of the Umayyads. The 4th picture looks over the ruins of their mosque. The 5th picture is of the lesser palace or harem. And the last picture is over a Roman style bath house.    Leer más

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  • skip's retirement travelskip's retirement travelJordan and Lebanon

    Zahle

    30 de noviembre de 2021, Líbano ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Zahle is the capital of Bekaa, the valley region between Syria and the coast. It's most famous site is the tower of Mary the Mother of Jesus in the 1st picture. She looks over the city as a protector. In one hand she holds grapes; in the other wheat. Both are symbols for the Bekaa valley which is a rich agricultural region.
    The 2nd picture is a street scene along the Berdawni River that runs through town. This is a busy summer promenade. So you can tell it's well off season as most shops are closed for the winter. The 3rd picture is of a small chapel at the foot the the Mary Tower. I particularly like the glass wall overlooking the valley.
    The last 2 pictures are both taken from the top of the Mary Tower. The 4th looks over Zahle in the same direction that the statue faces, and the 5th takes a longer look over the Bekaa valley.    Leer más

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  • skip's retirement travelskip's retirement travelJordan and Lebanon

    Caves of Ksara

    30 de noviembre de 2021, Líbano ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    This is one of the oldest wineries in Lebanon. It is built around ancient caves that date to Roman times. The natural caves have been extended by hand. Now the cave system extends for more than 2 kilometers.
    The 1st picture is 3 of the wines we tasted. There are many more varieties. The 2nd picture is the front of the building, and the 3rd is their main lobby.
    The 4th and 5th pictures are in the caves. Lots of barrels, mostly of red wines. Their whites spend much less time, if any, on the oak .    Leer más

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  • skip's retirement travelskip's retirement travelJordan and Lebanon

    Baalbek

    1 de diciembre de 2021, Líbano ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    This famous site is another one of those places to show up in historical or archaeological documentaries. Baalbek is one of the largest temple complexes from Roman times that can be seen. It consists of 3 temples in the complex. There is something about the number 3 here as it shows up all over the site.
    The 1st picture is the entry to the temple. Just past the gate is the entry courtyard in the 2nd picture. They say this is the only 6-sided space in the Roman empire. The 3rd picture is the great courtyard where sacrifices to Jupiter were performed. The altar is the large stone structure just right of center.
    The 4th picture looks across the temple of Jupiter. It is located behind the altar and is guarded by a small tower that controlled access. Just to the left of center high in the picture is a set of 6 columns that are hard to make out as I took the picture more end on than I realized. Those 6 columns are original. They have been standing right there since the 1st century. After the cedar tree, these 6 columns are a symbol of Lebanon.
    The 5th and 6th pictures are the temple of Bacchus, located adjacent to Jupiter. One is outside; one is inside. This is the largest temple in the best condition of all Roman sites, I'm told. The scale is enormous, and I find it hard to believe that the Jupiter temple is larger. I've seen many archaeological sites, thinking I had some idea of the impressive scale of the structures. My imagination was way short of the mark. These temple are far grander, more imposing than my wildest expectations.
    Not shown us the temple if Venus nearby. This is the 3rd temple and is under reconstruction at the moment.    Leer más

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  • skip's retirement travelskip's retirement travelJordan and Lebanon

    Musem of Khalil Gibran

    1 de diciembre de 2021, Líbano ⋅ 🌧 4 °C

    I only know Gibran for The Prophet, his most famous work. It turns out he was far more prolific than that. In fact he was an artist. Most of the museum is the originals of his painting. They are quite stunning and surprising. His work can be googled. So I won't belabor it here. I encourage you to look. His work includes his own illustrations that he prepared for The Prophet. I don't recall seeing them in any edition I've looked at. Just seeing those is well worth the time. (NB, photography wasn't allowed).
    The museum is in a former Carmelite Monastery in Gibran's home town. This is the view of the building from across the road.
    Gibran's will said that he wanted this monastery purchased so that he could be buried in his home town. The only part of the museum allowing photography is the tomb. The 2nd picture has his coffin behind glass. The rest of the pictures are of the remainder of the room. No explanation was given. So I simply surmise that these are his things, much like ancient burials interred some of the deceased's possessions.    Leer más

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  • skip's retirement travelskip's retirement travelJordan and Lebanon

    St. Anthony of Kozhaya Monastery

    1 de diciembre de 2021, Líbano ⋅ 🌧 6 °C

    I had the privilege of staying here. This is a Maronite monastery. It is named for St. Anthony of Egypt (see other posts), the father of monasticism. This monastery was founded in the 18th century. And this the mother house of the Lebanese Maronites.
    The 1st picture is a statue of St. Anthony outside a cave. The 2nd picture is St. Anthony's cave, now a small chapel. The 3rd picture is also in St. Anthony's cave. These are slave irons hanging beging the altar. I'm told they would use them to shackle wildly out of control people (believed at the time to be out of their minds, mentally ill, etc. The priest would pray until the subject was "cured," at which point the chains were removed. He was thus set free from slavery to his or her illness.
    The 4th picture is the facade built over the front of the cave holding the church. The 5th picture is the the nave of the church. The last picture is their nativity scene in a small side cave that acts like a large niche or small side chapel. I particularly like the image of the scene in a cave.    Leer más

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  • skip's retirement travelskip's retirement travelJordan and Lebanon

    Baatara Gorge

    2 de diciembre de 2021, Líbano ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    Baatara gorge is a 240 meter deep sinkhole in Mount Lebanon that has become known for a couple reasons. During the spring runoff, I'm told, there is a 100 meter high waterfall into the gorge. I'm here at the wrong time of the year for that.
    The other is that the formation looks like 3 bridges are stacked one above the other. Together with the surrounding scenery, this has become a local recreational area.
    The 1st 2 pictures look down into the sinkhole. Sadly, the sun is in the wrong position for good photos. The 1st picture is taken from the terrace near the top of the gorge, and the 2nd is taken from about half the depth of the gorge at the point where trail access ends and the walls become near vertical.
    The other 2 pictures are in the gorge, looking at the immediate scenery.    Leer más

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