• Toto Zapata
  • Junita Fernandez
  • Toto Zapata
  • Junita Fernandez

Junita & TG - Exploring Asia

On tour in India, Vietnam, Laos, Nepal and ….. Baca selengkapnya
  • Jaipur - The Pink City

    8–10 Okt 2024, India ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    We did spend 2 days in Jaipur and it was quite a packed visit but we got a good feeling for the „pink“ city, the capital of Rajasthan.

    Jaipur was once the stronghold of the Rajas and Maharajas. And you see their history all over Jaipur. Jaipur is named after its founder, the great warrior-astronomer Jai Singh 11 (1688-
    1744), who came to power at age 11 after the death of his father, Maharaja Bishan Singh. Their capital at the time was at Amber (pronounced amer), about 11km northeast of present-day Jaipur, where they built the impressive Amber Fort. Jai Singh's grounding in the sciences is reflected in the
    precise symmetry of the new city.

    On the late afternoon of the first day we did an organised TukTuk tour to see Jaipur at night. 3h moving around in the crazy traffic in Jaipur and facing the noises and buzz of the city. We covered Jai Mahal Palace, Hawa Mahal and Albert Hall Museum. We also had some tasty street food.

    First stop was the Jal Mahal Palace. Jal Mahal means “water palace” and is known for its unique architecture in the middle of the Man Sagar Lake. The lake is an artificial lake and was constructed by damming the Dravyavati river in 1610. Maharaja Jai Singh II of Amber built the magnificent palace and splendid architecture in 1750. One of the interesting things about Jal Mahal is that it is a 5-storey building out of which 4-storeys are submerged underwater, and only the top floor is above water level. It was built in the middle of the lake to keep the rooms cool.

    Then one of the highlights of Jaipur. Hawa Mahal (translated: Palace of Winds). The imposing structure with a pink facade is adorned with lattice and glass inlay work, making it an amalgamation of Rajput and Mughal architectural styles. Built in 1799 by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh, the monument is composed of 953 Jharokhas (small windows) which look like a honeycomb. These were used by the royal ladies to see the activities outside.

    And finally the Albert Hall Museum—Jaipur’s oldest museum. The 135-year-old museum—set within the sprawling Ram Niwas Garden—is a stunning example of Indo-Saracenic architecture. It was built to commemorate the visit of the Prince of Wales, Albert Edward.

    For the second day we had a driver and guide and we dived deeper in the history of this great city.
    The first stop was the Jantar Manta, which is an astronomical observation site built by Maharaja Jai Singh of Jaipur in the year 1724. It includes a set of some 20 main fixed instruments. Not being an astronomical but this place was very impressive. To see what they already figured out about time and the stars in these early years.

    Next stop the City Palace. The City Palace in Jaipur is spread out over a series of courtyards. It was founded in 1727 by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II as part of his ambitious city project. In 1727 the court was moved from Amber Palace to the City Palace, because of an increase in population and increasing water shortage. It now houses the Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II Museum, and continues to be the home of the Jaipur royal family.

    Amber Fort, this magnificent fort comprises an extensive palace complex, built from pale yellow and pink sandstone, and white marble, and is divided into four main sections, each with its own courtyard.
    Located on a strategic hill near Jaipur, Amer Fort is a former palace and military installation of the maharaja. They even had a Ham-am with hot and cold water. Each courtyard had his own nice beauty. And you could feel the wealth by the materials used at the time.

    And finally we passed by car and at light the Hawa Mahal again. Again very impressive.

    And of course we were dragged to tailor shop, jewelry shop and tea shop. This seems to be a part of every tour in Jaipur but we stayed strong and did not give in to buying items.

    Our hotel had a nice roof terrace with good food and live music which was very handy and relaxing. Kingfisher was our best buddy.

    And why is it called pink city. Because the Maharaja of Jaipur painted the city pink to welcome the Prince of Wales in 1876. Pink was the color of hospitality at the time. The Prince of Wales, Prince Albert, loved the city and nicknamed it the "Pink City". In 1877, the Maharaja passed a law that made it mandatory to paint all new buildings in Jaipur pink. The law is still in effect today.
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  • Hangout in Goa

    10–15 Okt 2024, India ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Goa was chosen as destination to unite with parts of Junita’s family. Jacob, Ragini, Leah and Sofia came by car from Mangalore. The rest of the group (Justin, Rosita and Rita) did fly in from Delhi. And on the last day we had a surprise guest, Junita’s middle sister Anita turned up. We had a house for 5 days at
    Candolim beach which is at North-Goa. The season is just starting so loads of Beach Shacks are still in the construction status. The sea was too wild to go inside. So we did walk a lot on the beach, enjoyed the sunsets but did as well some tours to Aguada Fort, Fontainhas Old Quarter in Panaji and Old Goa.

    We visited Fort Aguada which was built by the Portuguese in 1612 to defend Goa against the Dutch. One evening we drove to Fontainhas Old Quarter in Panaji where we had some drinks in the “For the Record - Vinyl Bar” and some good food at the “Outpost”, which was kind of a French Bistro. Busy with live guitar music. Loads of old colourful colonial buildings there.

    And finally our trip to Old Goa. It’s the former capital of Portuguese India. Full of old churches and old colonial buildings. Established in 1510.
    We visited the Basilica of Bom Jesus, the Church of St. Francis of Assisi and the Tower and the ruins of the Church of St. Augustine. It’s an interesting story. The convent was established in 1572. The Portuguese government banned the religious orden of the Augustinians in 1832 and by 1835 all Augustinians had to leave Goa. The church was abandoned and finally collapsed.

    I had first time Goan food and I need to say it was so tasty. Kingfish Thali, Pomfret Thali, Sausage Pulao, Butter Garlic Calamari and more. So far the Indian food is a pure delight. Look forward to much more!

    We enjoyed as well the People’s Beer a lot which is by the people for the people.
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  • Mumbai - The City that never sleeps

    15–18 Okt 2024, India ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    First time Mumbai or how it was called till 1995 Bombay. Financial capital of South-Asia, responsible for 25% of the national output and of course home of the Bollywood industry.
    On 15 August 1947, India became independent. The last British troops to leave India, the First Battalion of the Somerset Light Infantry, passed through the arcade of the Gateway of India in Bombay on 28 February 1948. The 282-year-long period of the British domination in Bombay ended after India's Independence in 1947.
    So therefore our first tourist points were the Gateway of India and the Taj MahalPalace on the opposite side. The Gateway to India was completed in 1924 and was built to commemorate the landing of George V for his coronation as the Emperor of India in December 1911. He was the first British monarch to visit India. The Taj Mahal Palace is a 5-Star hotel, opened in 1903 and built by Jamsetji Tata. The story is that he built it as he was refused entrance to the Watson’s Hotel as that one was reserved for Europeans. The Watson’s Hotel is now a ruin and our guide told us that it will be finally demolished. The Taj was one of the main targets in the 2008 Mumbai attacks and a film was produced called Hotel Mumbai (worth to watch!).
    By the way we had a real good guide for the first 2 days who gave us a good insight into the history of Mumbai.
    We went to the Rajabai Clock Tower, saw the great architecture of the British (with individual clusters of Victorian or Art Deco buildings) - many are UNESCO World Heritage, others are in a very bad condition.
    Final destination on the first day was Mani Bhavan, Gandhi’s residence in Bombay from 1917-1934. He launched from here Satyagraha (non violent resistance) in 1919
    and civil disobedience in 1932. Very impressive museum which included as well a letter to Adolf Hitler from 23.07.1939. The day was rounded up with dinner at “The Bombay Canteen” with our hosts Nissan and Denise.
    Second day we started with the visit of the Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat. It was founded by an association of washer-men 140 years ago. It’s a well known open air laundromat in Mumbai. The washers, known as dhobis, work in the open to clean clothes and linens and dry them from Mumbai's hospitals and hotels but as well from private people.
    Second stop was to see the Dabbawala’s. Since 1890, dressed in white outfit and traditional Gandhi Cap, a Mumbai Army of 5,000 Dabbawalas fulfilling the hunger of almost 200,000 Mumbaikar with home-cooked food that is transported between home and office daily. It’s a lunchbox delivery and return system for workers in Mumbai. We saw them getting the boxes in their bikes to deliver them to the offices.
    Another highlight was the visit of the Babu Amichand Panalal Adishwarji Shwetambar Jain Temple. Jainism is one of the oldest religions still practiced today. The religion has between four and five million followers, who reside mostly in India. It teaches the path to liberation through nonviolence and living a harmless life. They are strict vegetarians.
    We had great vegetarian food for lunch. We had Sev Puri, Bhel and Ragda Pattice. Delicious!
    Last highlight for the day was the CST, formerly known as Victoria Terminus (VT). It belongs to the British colonial era and was designed by the British architect Frederick William Stevens. The construction of the iconic station started in 1878 and was completed in 1888. It was named so to commemorate Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee.
    Third day was just us walking around in the Colaba district. Seeing one more time the Gateway to India, having a drink at Cafe Mondegar. It was started in 1932 by Iranian Zoroastrians (Parsi settlers in India) as an Irani café. Now it’s famous for murals on the wall from Mario Miranda. After a walk through the art district Kala Ghoda we had Lunch at Cafe Universal, a classy Irani cafe established in 1921.
    A wonderful few days in Mumbai packed with history, great food and cool bars and restaurants.
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  • Mangalore - Too much food!

    18–22 Okt 2024, India ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Mangalore is the home to Junita’s niece Ragini, her husband Jacob and the 2 daughters Leah and Sofia. It was clear that we will pass by during our India trip and had the luck that Junita’s son Arun and his fiancée Alison stopped at the same time.
    Mangalore is 900km south of Mumbai at the West coast of India.
    So we had time to enjoy great hospitality, food, sunsets and more. We didn’t see any other western person here. Ragini and Jacob took us to the “hidden gems” of Mangalore to enjoy great food.
    One high light was for sure the visit of the Church of the St. Aloysius College in Mangalore. So we could see the fresco decoration of the Jesuit brother Antonio Moscheni (Stezzano, 16 January 1854 – Kochi, 15 November 1905) which were made between 1899 and 1902. Moscheni covered walls, ceilings and pillars with framed, vivid tableaux on the life of St Aloysius Gonzaga (the patron saint of the college), other Jesuit missionaries, saints and martyrs and the mysteries of the Christian faith (the Trinity, Christ and his Mother). It was also a great way at the time to show the story of the Bible on the wall of the church.
    And the beaches were outstanding and empty!
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  • Bangalore - the first IT hub of India

    22–24 Okt 2024, India ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Bangalore got his name changed into Bengaluru in 2006. It’s the capital of Karnataka and the 3rd biggest city in India. So we met a few family members and had the chance to stay at the lovely place of Junita’s sister Anita.
    Bangalore was the first IT hub of India, has a good Metro connection and loads of craft breweries. Food was amazing again. The home cooked one but as well in the restaurants. And the book shops were just mad. Total chaos but so many different books on offer. Quite a variety!
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  • Majestic and awe-inspiring Hampi

    24–25 Okt 2024, India ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    2 day trip to Hampi, 350km North of Bangalore. A UNESCO World Heritage Site which is a must to visit for every India Traveller. We found it extremely impressive, the landscape, the number of temples, the size of the stones and the stone work capabilities including the cravings. It reminded us sometimes to Angkor Wat in Cambodia.
    The grandiose site of Hampi was the last capital of the last great Hindu Kingdom of Vijayanagar. Its fabulously rich princes built temples and palaces which won the admiration of travellers (like Nicolo Conti, 1395-1469) between the 14th and 16th centuries. Conquered by the Deccan Muslim confederacy in 1565, the city was pillaged over a period of six months before being abandoned. The monuments are covering an area of 24 hectares next to the river Tungabhadra. There are more than 1600 surviving remains that include forts, riverside features, royal and sacred complexes, temples, shrines, pillared halls, Mandapas, memorial structures, gateways, defence check posts, stables, water structures, etc..
    I will highlight only a few places we saw in Hampi.
    There are 2 areas, the sacred area and the royal area.
    We started at the Vitthala Temple in the sacred area. The temple is known for his creative architecture such as a moving stone chariot and the musical pillars.
    We strolled along the river, passing the King’s Balance (it’s a 15th century stone scale that weighed the king against gold that he gave to the priests), walked along the Hampi Bazaar, saw the Monolithic Bull (very impressive) and ended up at the Virupaksha Temple which is a 7th century Shiva temple. The Virupaksha temple is built in South Indian architecture style. It has three gopurams; the eastern gopuram is the largest and shown on the first photo, the other two are the smaller gopurams in the inner east and the inner northern sides of the temple complex. The gopuram on the eastern entrance has nine storeys and is 50 meters tall. Beautiful sculptures of many Hindu Gods adorn the outer face of the gopurams.
    Sunset was seen on Hemakuta Hill which by itself had a few temples (35) onsite, many of them dedicated to Lord Shiva.
    On the second day we explored the Royal Centre in the south-west part of the site which contains structures that seem to have been palaces, baths, pavilions, royal stables and temples for ceremonial use. For this day we had a guide which gave us the chance to ask loads of questions and of course to hear more details about Hampi.
    We started with the monolithic Ganesha Temple (financed by a mustard trader), followed by the Krishna Temple. Very impressive carvings in the last one.
    One of the highlights of the day was the Royal Palace with remnants of the royal complex where the king of the Vijayanagara empire lived.
    Next stop the Hazara Ramachandra Temple. It is located in the core of the Royal Centre and is known for its wall friezes depicting the great epic Ramayana and a few episodes of Bhagavata. It is dated to about 14"-15* century CE and dedicated to Vishnu in the form of Rama.
    According to the legend, the epic took place when Lord Ramayana and Lord Lakshman reach the Land of Monkeys. The place where they reach is said to be Hampi.
    Next destination was the Zenana (Women) Enclosure which is a structural complex with tall enclosure walls and 3 watch towers. Inside is the Lotus Mahal which was built in Indo-Islamic style and is an exemplary manifestation of Vijayanagara secular architecture. This palace was the designated area for the royal women of the Vijayanagara Empire. Final stop before our return to Bangalore were the Elephant Stables. They served as an enclosure for royal elephants back in the day of the Vijayanagara Empire and the stables are one of the last remaining unruined structures in Hampi during its attack by the Mughals.
    Hampi was popular in the 70ties and 80ties amongst the Hippie community but the government closed down many businesses in the late 80ties in the inner part of Hampi to secure the religious importance of the sacred area.
    Intensive cultural 2-day injection but was absolutely another highlight in India.
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  • Mysore, Bangalore 2.0 and Delhi 3.0

    25–30 Okt 2024, India ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    We returned back to Bangalore after our trip to Hampi. Saturday was relaxation time with a very good 90 mins full body oil massage including time in the steam room. Rest of day was reading and enjoying a long Upmann cigar paired with Canadian Club Whisky (from Taarika, Thanks!). The day was finished with a live concert of the Vasu Dixit Collective (VDC) in the studio room of the compound. VDC plays Folk-Rock Fusion both in Kannada and Hindi; covering some of the saint poets: Purandaradasa, Basavanna, and Kabir. It was Vasu's open-throated voice which was great to listen too and it was for sure a new experience.
    Next day we headed towards Mysore. But before we arrived here, we stopped in Daria Daulat Bagh and Gumbaz-eh-Shahi. The later one is the mausoleum of Tipu Sultan and his family. More interesting was Daria Daulat Bagh which was Tipu Sultans summer palace from 1784 with very colorful murals. Located at Srirangapatna near Mysore, it is mainly made by Teakwood. The paintings in the palace depict the war scenes, the British and the French officers, the Sultan, Kings and others. Who was Tipu Sultan?
    Tipu Sultan or also called “Tiger of Mysore” was the Sultan of Mysore who won fame in the wars of the late 18th century. He lived from 1750 till 1799. Like his father Haidar Ali, Tipu had to compete with the rise of the British power in the south, resulting in the Mysore wars. The first Mysore war, fought in 1767, saw Haidar Ali practically dictating terms to the British. In the second battle of Polilur (near Kanchipuram, Tamilnadu), Haidar and Tipu gained an impressive victory which is commemorated in the wall paintings in the summer palace at Srirangapatna. In the third Mysore war in 1791 at Srirangapatna, Tipu's capital was besieged by Lord Cornwallis assisted by the Nizam of Hyderabad and the Marathas wherein Tipu was forced to sign a treaty and surrender two of his sons as hostages to the British.
    The final storming of Srirangapatna in 1799 under the command of colonel Arthur Wellesley, resulted not only in the defeat but also in the death of Tipu Sultan.
    After that interesting Summer Palace we headed to Mysore. Quick stop in the great Bakery SAPA (I also bought some Sourdough Bread for the evening - yeah!) and then with full stomach we entered the famous Mysore Palace which is also called Amba Vilas. The site’s history is closely linked to that of the royal family of the former kingdom of Mysore, the Wadiyar dynasty. The family ruled the area from 1399, when they first lived in a palace at Mysore, and the city became the kingdom’s capital in 1799 after the fall of Srirangapatna. Originally a wooden structured palace, it was burnt down in 1897. Then a three-story, gray granite, Indo-Saracenic building capped by a five-story tower was built and finished in 1912. The palace is now in state ownership, the descendants of the former maharajas still live in one part of the building.
    In the evening we had a quick look at the illumination of the palace with around 100.000 lights.
    My impression about the city of Mysore: For me the cleanest city in India so far. Home of Yoga and Ayurveda. Wide roads. A lot of space.
    Finally we head back to Delhi for 2 nights till we leave for a new country.
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  • Kathmandu - Spiritual city

    30 Okt–2 Nov 2024, Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Kathmandu - it was a long time on our list and finally we did it. 10 days in Nepal and the first 2.5 days in Kathmandu.
    We did a good combination of seeing ancient sites and walking through colorful lively alley ways.
    We had for Patan Darbar a guide which did help us to get the key information about the history of Nepal. Was a good start! Patan Darbar (or Durbar and means Royal Palace) is on of the 3 Royal squares in Kathmandu Valley and all 3 are World Heritage Sites. Patan is the oldest of all the three cities of Kathmandu valley. It is the best known for its artistic heritage and I t is probably one of the oldest Buddhist City in the world. The square is full of ancient places, temples, and shrines noted for their exquisite carvings. And on one side of the square is the Royal Palace. The highlights were the Royal bath called Tushahity and the Golden Window. All the buildings were somehow damaged during the 2015 earthquake but the majority has been rebuilt or has been renovated.
    After that we went to the second Durbar, the Kathmandu Durbar which is in the heart of Old Kathmandu. With the highest concentration of old structures, the square is home to several palaces, courtyards, and temples. And close by was as well Freak Street which was famous in the 60ties and 70ties as part of the Hippie trail. Why, because at the time the main attraction drawing tourists to Freak Street was then the government-run hashish shops. Freak Street was a hippie nirvana till more strict regulations were put in place and finally the hippie movement of Nepal died out in the late 1970s.
    Another interesting part of Kathmandu is Thamel which is the place for tourists, restaurants, shops and bars. We had very good Nepalese food like Momos or Dal Bat with Mutton in family owned businesses.
    The final day was reserved for 2 important site visits. The Buddha Stupa and the Pashupatinath Temple.
    The Buddha Stupa is also an UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the largest and most important stupas in the world for the Buddhists. The eyes of Buddha are painted on all four sides of the tower. Prayer wheels were everywhere. A spiritually and culturally enriching place.
    Second stop was the Pashupatinath Temple., a Hindu temple next to the sacred Bagmati river. The temple is also World Heritage since 1979. It’s the oldest Hindu temple in Kathmandu and it is devoted to the Hindu god Shiva in his form as Pashupati, protector of animals. Believers want their lives to end here and are cremated here so that they may be purified by the sacred waters of the Baghmati.
    Overall a very impressive city which deserves more time. People are very friendly, air quality is bad, food and beer excellent.
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  • Pokhara and Poonhill Hike

    2–8 Nov 2024, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Our 25 mins flight (alternative to 8h bus ride) took us to Pokhara which is our base for our 3d 2n Poon Hill Hike to see the Annapurna Massif range.
    We had a full day in Pokhara to stroll around. We didn’t want to do any sightseeing or hikes as we wanted to be prepared for our big hike the next day. So we just did relaxing walks along the Lake Phewa, went to different shops and had some good meals and drinks. We also saw a lot of dancing activities on the road from the local youth as it was still festive week in Nepal.
    We met our guide and porter and finally our tour did start with a 1.5h drive in an old Hyundai in very bad roads to our starting point Nayapul on 1.070 metres. From there slowly upward to Tikhedhunga where we had amazing Dal Bhat Nepali. And then our 3.500 steps upward walk started which was accompanied by partially heavy rain. Was a tough experience. We reached our Guesthouse in Ulleri and did spend the rest of the day around the wood fire to dry our clothes and warm us up.
    The second day started with sunshine. We were able to see the peak of the Annapurna South in the distance. Today’s walk was from Ulleri on 1.960 metres to Godephani on 2.860 metres hiking partially through Rhododendron forests. Nice upwards walk in the sun but at the end we just escaped the upcoming rain.
    The third day did start with the 4.45am 1h walk upward to Poonhill on 3.210 metres. From there we watched the sunset and could see the Annapurna Massif Range with the Annapurna South (7.291m), Annapurna I (8.091m), the Dhaulagiri (8.167m) and the Machapuchare (6.993m). Was a great experience despite all the other people. Then down again, quick breakfast and at 8am we started our 18km downhill hike from 2.860 meter to 974 meter. Wonderful views again but painful especially the following days when we felt all our muscles in our legs.
    In summary a great experience to do a hike in Nepal and would everybody recommend to do that. Landscape and people are just amazing.
    Now it’s time to roll back to Kathmandu and then to Delhi for a few days to prepare for our trip to Sri Lanka.
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  • Recovering in Delhi 4.0

    8–12 Nov 2024, India ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

    After our hike in Nepal we did feel loads of new muscles in our legs. We felt it painfully. So our time in Delhi was mainly for recovery and sorting out our next trip to Sri Lanka.
    We had lovely food at Junita’s mother’s house but as well Chinese-Indian food and as well Italian food.
    I explored the great book shops at Khan Market when Junita met her old school friends from 40 years ago.
    Now with new energy, power and motivation we are able to head towards Sri Lanka! Stay tuned!
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  • Overnight in Colombo

    12–13 Nov 2024, Srilanka ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    After a very lean and straight forward immigration process (panic before as mixing messages about visa in the net), quick luggage delivery, money exchange, local SIM card and finally pre booked taxi we reached our hotel on Marine Drive. Next to the ocean but as well next to the train line. A very unusual setup where the train track is between road and ocean. Hotel was very good, clean and stylish. Also with a great rooftop bar in the 24th floor.
    Colombo is the capital of Sri Lanka and the biggest city with a population of 5.6mio. in the metropolitan area. It reminded me a little bit of Havana. Many old destroyed or run down buildings next to new hotels. Loads of colonial buildings as well.
    We did choose a restaurant just 10 mins away. Was recommended based on Google Maps. We were the first guests and did stick to sea food. Butter Calamari (different than in Goa) and Coconut Fish Cake as a starter. And the mains were Prawn Curry (super hot) and Seafood Kutturoti, which was delicious.
    Just one night in Colombo to settle in and next morning we left for Sigiriya.
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  • Dambulla Caves and Pidurangala Rock

    13–14 Nov 2024, Srilanka ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    In the morning we did head 4h from Colombo to the Dambulla Cave Temple, a World Heritage Site. A steep hike up to the temple and then we were able to see the 5 caves. The five caves which have been converted into shrine rooms, images of the Buddha and over 1,500 ceiling murals. The caves are at the base of a 150m high rock built by King Valagambahu who took refuge in it when exiled from Anuradhapura in the 1st century BC. When he reclaimed the capital he turned these caves into a rock temple as a thank-you offering. Over the centuries that followed further improvements were made including one by King Nissankamalla who gilded the inside of the temple, earning it the name Ran Giri (Golden Rock) and added 70 statues of the Buddha in the 12th century.
    This temple is by far the most impressive of the many cave temples found in Sri Lanka and is considered the best preserved and the largest in the island. A very impressive site. Reminded me of the Mogao Caves on the Silk Road in China. But the ones in Dambulla were much bigger.
    Next day we climbed up the Pidurangala Rock. Was a 45 mins hike, especially the last part was acrobatic climbing where we had to be very careful. But the view from the top was outstanding especially towards Sigiriya Rock. The mountain has ruins of the old cave monastery of Pidurangala Great Royal Temple which sprawls over a vast 13.5 acres and is said to have once given sanctuary to over 500 meditating monks.
    On our way to Kandy did we stop in Matale to have a short visit at the Hindu temple Sri Muthumari Amman Kovil. The Sri Muthumari Amman Temple is dedicated to Mariamman, who is believed to be the goddess of rain and fertility. In that name, the prefix ‘Muthu’ means pearl, ‘Mari’ means rain, and ‘Amman’ means mother in Tamil.
    From there we reached Kandy, our place for the next 2 nights.
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  • Kandy - Home of the Temple of the tooth

    14–16 Nov 2024, Srilanka ⋅ 🌧 25 °C

    2 nights in Kandy. We decided to take it easy and do only a few of the recommended places in walking distance to our place, the Villa49. It was an old colonial building which had been converted into a home stay. 5 rooms and the landlady did even cook for us in the evening. Was a real tasty dinner with rice curry and other local side dishes.

    The few sites we visited were:
    1. Sri Dalada Maligawa which holds the relic of the left upper canine tooth of Buddha himself. The relics of Buddha's sacred tooth hold a pretty important role in the political reign of the Sri Lankan Government since whoever holds the relic of the holy tooth of Lord Buddha holds the power of the country's government. We followed a religious ceremony in the temple and finally had a very good dinner in our hotel with homemade curry.

    2. St. Paul’s Church, a neo-gothic Anglican Church. Construction began on 16 March 1843 when the foundation stone of the church was laid by the Bishop of Madras George Spencer. The Church was completed in 1848. It was first used by British officials and the British Garrison, it has been called the Garrison Church. The absolute highlight was the Stained Glass Window above the altar. The story is that In 1874, the widow of Laurence St. George Carey, a tea planter on Le Vallon Estate, Pupuressa, gifted, in memory of her husband, a magnificent stained glass window, depicting the Crucifixion, the Ascension, the Angel in the Tomb and the Nativity. The guard from the church told us that it was manufactured in England.

    3. Trinity College and Chapel of Trinity College Kandy - Holy Trinity Church. The chapel was build in 1935 and is often called a “chapel without walls”. It is built upon a composition of granite pillars, a high held roof along with magnificent wooden and rock carvings. There were loads of mural paintings done by David Painter.

    On our full day in Kandy we experienced as well the Poya, the full moon. The Buddha was born, experienced Enlightenment and Parinirvana ('final extinction') on a day with a full moon, with the result that each full moon (Poya) is a public holiday on which Buddhists hold special ceremonies. So they people in Sri Lanka have alone 12 bank holidays due to the full moon. On such a day, devotees go to the temple to make offerings (flowers, oil lamps, etc.) and listen to sermons and blessings performed by the monks. No alcohol allowed on that day, not in bars, not in restaurants.

    So overall a nice place and would have been good to explore even more. Need to mention the heavy showers in the afternoon which limited our activities also a bit.
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  • Train Kandy - Nanu-Oya - Ella

    16–17 Nov 2024, Srilanka ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    The train journey between Kandy and Ella in Sri Lanka is considered one of the most breathtaking in the world.
    We decided to do it in 2 legs. In between we stopped in Nanu-Oya for 1 night. For both journeys we bought the tickets beforehand as the trains are getting sold out very quickly despite the fact they run a few times a day.
    The first leg was 4.5h and the second one 2.5h. The Weather was fine one the first leg. For the second part it did start raining after 1.5h and it also became dark at the end.
    The train moves through tea plantations, jungle, and mountains. As the journey goes on, you move higher and higher up into the rolling green highlands where the big tea farms are and many beautiful hilltop villages and waterfalls. We started in Kandy at 400m and had our stop in Nani-Oya at 1.880m. We ended the journey in Ella at 1.041m.
    The train was brought to life in the mid-1800s when Sri Lanka was under British colonial rule. During this time, it was used as a train to transport tea from the plantations to Colombo, where it would then be exported internationally.
    We stopped for 1 night in Nanu-Oya in the highlands. The highlands are perfect for growing tea because of their cooler, wetter climate. And the hills were full with tea plantations from tea companies like Pedro Tea Estate or Edinburgh Tea. We stayed overnight in Nuwara Eliya, which is Sri Lanka’s highest town and a favourite hill station during British colonial times. The town is still touted as ‘Little England’, an illusion maintained by the presence of the Nuwara Eliya Golf Club, a racecourse, the Victoria Park and excellent trout fishing in nearby lakes and rivers. We dived into the busy streets of the town Nuwara Eliya, saw the old British Post office and other colonial buildings. We did a walk in the morning through the tea plantations and saw the hard working tea leaf pickers. Our Hotel for the night was The Firs, overlooking Lake Gregory. The bungalow in British Colonial style was built over one and a half centuries ago by Philip Freudenberg, Ceylon’s first Imperial German Counsel in the colonial architectural style of the time. It was also once the holiday home of Prime Minister D.S. Senanayake.
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  • Ella - Hill Country Village

    17–21 Nov 2024, Srilanka ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    We decided to have a 4 night stay in Ella. We found a nice little 4 room hotel 1.5km outside of Ella embedded into the green nature. Very nice clean quality place. Ella is on of the country’s most popular destinations and well known for its nature and laid back cafés.
    When you are in Ella then the visit of the 9 Arch bridge is a must. The bridge was completed in 1919 and is an example of colonial-era railway construction. The location embedded into the greenery makes it a pilgrimage place for all instagramers, tik-tok users and normal tourists. We were normal tourists and heavily shocked about all the photo shootings which were going on.
    From there we did a hike to the Little Adam Peak and back to Ella which added finally up to 10km. At Little Adam’s Peak we had really luck with the weather and we could enjoy wonderful viewings.
    Next day we took the tuk tuk to one of the tea plantations. We visited the UVA Halpewatte Tea Factory. It’s a factory from the 40ties and we had a real good tour to understand the production process. Rest of the day was chilling in bars during heavy rain.
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  • Yala Safari Park

    21–23 Nov 2024, Srilanka ⋅ 🌧 30 °C

    A trip to Sri Lanka is not complete if you don’t do a safari in one of the numerous National Parks.
    We decided to do a full day trip into the Yala National Park. We stayed 2 nights in the Hotel River Front in Debarawewa, around 35 Mins away from the main gate. Very clean hotel with good service.
    So the tour did start 4.30am and we were back in the hotel around 6pm. In between was a 2.5h lunch break where no car is allowed to drive in the park. The location for the lunch was next to the beach as the National Park has the beach in one side. A wonderful setup and we enjoyed the hour sitting in the beach just watching out. This area got also hit by the tsunami in 2004. 250 people died here but no animal (instincts!). The park itself has a size of 979 sqm. It was designated as a wildlife sanctuary already in 1900. It consists of 5 blocks and we explored block 1 (Palatupana).
    We saw Elephants, loads of different Birds (like Little Green Bee Eater), Black a necked Storks, Lizards (Land Monitor), Crocodiles, Wild Water Buffalos, Axis Deers, Sambar Deer, Wild Boar, Grey Langurs, India Peafowls, Ceylon Jungle Fowl. The leopards we only saw from the far distance. Better to see them during the dry period when they need to find water.
    The afternoon was full of rain and we experienced the second part of the heavily bumpy roads in the National Park.
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  • Galle Fort - Dutch Legacy

    23–25 Nov 2024, Srilanka ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Second last destination in Sri Lanka was Galle Fort. Strategically located amidst Indian Ocean trade routes, Galle served as an international trading port well before the arrival of Europeans to Asia, However, it was during the 16" century that the Portuguese established a fort in this promontory for trading and defensive purposes. The Dutch who succeeded Portuguese in 1640, strengthened the fortifications with massive ramparts thats enclosed the entire promontory with bastions positioned at strategic points in both sea and land fronts It reflects the fusion of Dutch fortification engineering knowledge and native construction techniques utilizing local materials and manpower. The fortified town also offers an outstanding example of an urban ensemble in South Asia, illustrating the interaction between Dutch town planning principles and South Asian architectural traditions. The British who took over the fort from the Dutch in 1796 also made a number of modifications to the fort Galle is the best representation of a fortified colonial town in South Asia. Due to its Outstanding Universal Value Galle Fort was inscribed on UNESCO's World Heritage List in 1988.
    We just walked around enjoyed the buildings, churches (Anglican, Dutch Reformed, Catholic), the Lighthouse, shops, restaurants with great Sri Lankan cuisine and cafes. We had a room in a very nice historic building with veranda. Was perfect! In the late afternoon rain arrived on both days and therefore no sunset on the Fort walls.
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  • Showdown in Colombo

    25–27 Nov 2024, Srilanka ⋅ 🌧 25 °C

    At 6.48am we took the morning train from Galle to Colombo Port. Ok it was finally 7.15am as trains in Sri Lanka are always delayed.
    We had 2 full days in Colombo and first day a tuk tuk driver tried to scam us but we were good as a team, paid just the amount we thought was right and left him.
    He had taken us to the biggest Buddha Temple in Colombo, the Gangaramaya Temple. It’s 120 years old and is an unusual mix of a Buddhist temple and a museum, home to not only a number of vintage cars but an enormous amount of materials of religious relevance, including gold, sapphires, sandalwood, elephant ivory, porcelain, Chinese statues, a cannon, stamps, watches, cameras, photographs, coins, two taxidermied elephants, stereos, shells, swords and other assorted knick-knacks. There were even an old Merceds and 2 Rolls-Royce’s. Many of these items were gifts to the temple. There is also a lot of specifically religious material, including a massive sacred tree in the centre of the complex. Nearby is the temple’s most sacred relic, said to be a lock of the Buddha’s hair donated from a temple in Bengal. After that he just wanted to bring us somewhere else which we didn’t want, he asked for a high amount to rip us off, we shouted at him, paid smaller amount and left. Then we were free and walked around the Pettah market. The Pettah Market is an open market in the suburb of Pettah in Colombo. One can find a wide range of goods right, from electronics to fashion accessories, and market vendors selling anything from fresh vegetables and fruits to meat and seafood. It’s a unique wholesale and commercial trading hub. Later the rain started and we relaxed with beer and food.
    For the second day we did an organized tuk tuk tour to see compressed the highlights of Colombo. So we got an insight into the history of Sri Lanka when the Portuguese, the Dutch, the British came and finally Independency. We heard stories about the huge investment of China in Sri Lanka whether it’s airport, motorway, buildings, port or the big complex on the sea front where the Chinese want to create a place like Dubai til 2040 with loads of Skyscrapers.
    We had late lunch in the Ceylon Curry Club located in the Old Dutch Hospital. Very tasty! Fish curry and vegetable Curry which was a Cashew Curry.
    In the evening we met another relative of Junita, Rogger. Was a very funny and interesting conversation about life, family and Sri Lanka.
    Next day we left by plane for Chennai in India.
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  • Chennai and Delhi - Food nonstop

    27–30 Nov 2024, India ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Returning from Colombo to India we had a one night stop in Chennai (former Madras) to visit and eat with Junita’s relatives. The house where we were is also the place where Junita was always during the summer holidays as a child. We got stuffed with South Indian food. It was so delicious. Walk around the block and a lot of construction work is going on with building the extension of the metro line. But overall I will remember Chennai for the chaotic traffic.
    On the way to the airport we stopped at the parents of one of Junita’s best friends. Had lunch but I was already so filled up by the breakfast before.
    We headed to Delhi to our recharging place at Rita’s house. I fell sick with stomach and back problems. Got well looked after by Rita. and Junita. Sadly I had to miss out on more delicious food due to my stomach. Now we are heading to Bhutan. Yeah!
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  • Royal Kingdom of Bhutan - Thimphu

    30 Nov–2 Des 2024, Bhutan ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Our landing in Paro in Bhutan on a small air track which is nestled between high mountains was one of the most stunning ones in our life. You had immidiately a feeling a peace and freedom as the houses where spread out on the hills and the low land, the air quality was very good and it was green. By the way, 70% of the country has trees and therefore Bhutan is only of 2 countries in the world who are carbon negative. Television was only introduced in 1999. No traffic lights exist in Bhutan.
    The immigration process was very fast and we were greeted by our guide Wangdi and our driver with a Bhutanese Welcome Ceremony.
    During our 1h ride to the capital Thimpu we did a stop at the Iron Link bridge just below the Tamchog Lhakhang temple.
    The great iron bridge builder was Thangtong Gyalpo (1385-1464). He was a wonder working saint and engineer who is believed to be the first to use heavy iron chains in the construction of suspension bridges.
    Our hotel was 10 mins outside the Centre so after dinner we took a taxi into town to explore 2 bars. First the Drunken Yeti (4th floor walk up but cute place) and then The Tipsy Cow with Nirvana Cover Live Music. Great choices.
    The second day we did start with a visit of the Buddha Dordenma, a 51 meters high statue overlooking Thimphu. It was built to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the fourth king Jigme Singye Wangchuck. It was finished 2015. The completed work is one of the largest Buddha rupas in the world and contains 100,000 8-inch-tall and 25,000 12-inch-tall gilded bronze Buddhas.the statue did cost 47 Mio USD and financed by a Business man from Singapore. The total costs are around 136 Mio USD.
    From there we stopped in the nearby woods to watch a private Darts competition between 2 groups of around 8 men each. Throwing distance was 35 meter and the darts were massively bigger and heavier as we know it. I had the chance the throw 2 darts and they didn’t reach the finish point, they fell down at around 25/26 meters. But was a great experience.
    The National Memorial Chorten was our next break on a sunny Sunday with blue sky. This large chorten is one of the most visible landmarks in Thimphu, and for many Bhutanese it is the focus of daily worship. The Tibetan-style stupa was built in 1974 as a memorial to the third king, Jigme Dorji Wangchuck (1928–72). The third king of Bhutan is often referred by history as father of modern Bhutan, because during his reign, most of the modern developments were first brought into Bhutan. We saw loads of older people in traditional dresses worshipping around the stupa but it was also great to see them meeting their friends and to have a chat.
    Last stop before lunch was Simply Bhutan, which is a privately owned Bhutanese Heritage museum. We had a good guy who did explain us a lot about how the Bhutanese lived in the past, music instruments, kitchen and other stuff.
    After a quick stop at Jungshi Handmade paper factory (bark of Daphne bush) we arrived at the Trashi Chho Dzong, The 17th-century fortress-monastery on the northern edge of the city, has been the seat of Bhutan's government since 1952. It is an impressive structure that houses the throne room and offices of the king, the secretariat and the ministries of home affairs and finance. There are thirty temples, chapels and shrines within Tashichho Dzong.
    The final stop was at Changlimithang Archery Ground. We heard that the Final of the Coronation National Archery Tournament is happening on Sunday and that why we wanted to see how it looks like. The distance is 145 meters and 2 teams competed against each other. 4 female supporters tried to support their own archer with singing or tried to confuse the opponent when it was his turn. Like the dart game it goes till 25 points and you get points when you hit the target.
    We finished the day by strolling around in the center and by having a final drink at the Drunken Yeti.
    Very packed but interesting first day in Bhutan.
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  • The “Divine Madman” and Punakha Dzong

    2–3 Des 2024, Bhutan ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Today we left Thimphu for Punakha. Our first stop was after 23km at the Dochu La Pass at 3.140m. It’s separating Thimphu from Punakha and is marked by an impressive collection of 108 chortens. The chortens were built in 2005 as a Buddhist atonement for the loss of life caused by the flushing out of Assamese militants in southern Bhutan.
    We had a clear day and had an amazing view of the Bhutan Himalaya. We were able to see the highest peak inside Bhutan, Gangkhar Puensum (7570m), which is the world’s highest unclimbed peak and other ones like the Masagang (7194m). Was a great start to the day, fresh air, blue sky and what a view.
    We proceeded for another 90mins and the next stop was at Chime Lhakhang. It was as built by the half brother of Drukpa Kuenley (1455 to 1570) who was an enlightened Buddhist master who personified the true essence of the Vajrayana tradition that is also known as "Crazy Wisdom".
    Devotees fondly call Lam Drukpa Kuenley the "Divine Madman", because of his non-conventional and outrageous style of teaching. He deliberately portrayed the image of a vagabond and wandered around the countryside, indulging in song and dance, alcohol and women, hunting and feasting. In reality, what it meant was that he was beyond the norms and conventions established by human society.
    The temple is also called Fertility Temple because many couples visit the place to do a specific ceremony to pray for getting parents. The women for example needs to carry a big wooden phallus on the back during the ceremony. An album with photos of children is the proof that it works.
    It was a very small but very interesting temple.
    After lunch we reached the Punakha Dzong, the most beautiful Dzong in Bhutan. This dzong was the second to be built in Bhutan and it served as the capital and seat of government until the mid-1950s. All of Bhutan's kings have been crowned here. The dzong is still the winter residence of the dratshang (official monk body). And we witnessed exactly this move from the capital Thimphu to the Punakha Dzong. The religious body with 300 monks arrived at the Dzong together with the religious treasures when we were there. It was quite an impressive walk of them into the Dzong. We had to wait then outside of the temple till they had finished their ceremony.
    Construction on the current dzong began in 1637 and was completed the following year, when the building was christened Pungthang Dechen Phodrang (Palace of Great Happiness). Later embellishments included the construction of a chapel to commemorate the victory over the Tibetans in 1639. The arms captured during the battle are preserved in the dzong.
    Punakha Dzong is 180m long and 72m wide and the utse (central tower) is six storeys high. The dzong is unusual in that it has three docheys (courtyards) instead of the usual two. The first (northern) courtyard is for administrative functions and houses a huge white Victory Chorten and bodhi tree. The second courtyard houses the monastic quarters and is separated from the first by the utse. In this courtyard there are two halls, one of which was used when Ugyen Wangchuck, later the first king, was presented with the Order of Knight Commander of the Indian empire by John Claude White in 1905. The third courtyard is the most important of all as it houses the main temple and national treasures.Images, statues and thangkas are displayed in the Dzong. These include murals depicting life story of Buddha done during the rule of the second druk desi. Large gilded statues of Buddha, Guru Rinpoche and Zhabdrung which belong to mid 18th century, and gilded panels on pillars are also here. Especially the story of Buddhas life painted on the wall was very impressive.
    Last station of the day was the Suspension Bridge nearby. It’s a 160m long bridge northeast of Punakha Dzong over the River Po Chhu and one of Bhutan's longest suspension bridges.
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  • Paro - National Museum and Dzong

    3–4 Des 2024, Bhutan ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We left our basic Hotel Pema Karpo - which reminded me of a communist all inclusive hotel - to head towards Paro via Do Chula Pass and Thimpu. Again a very relaxed lovely 3.5h ride and we could enjoy the scenery of Bhutan.
    First stop in Paro was Kiychu Lhakhang. It is one of Bhutan's oldest and most beautiful temples. The main chapel has roots as far back as the 7th century, with additional buildings and a golden roof added in 1839. The original temple is said to have been built overnight on the left foot of a colossal demoness—who intercepted the spread of Buddhism as she lay across the land. It’s thought to be one of 108 temples established to overpower her so Buddhism could flourish far and wide. In the 8th century, there was a popular revival under the guidance of Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava), who was credited with bringing Tantric Buddhism to Bhutan followed by a revered Bhutanese luminary named Je Sherub Gyeltshen gave it a boost in the 19th century. The inner shrine of Kyichu Lhakhang is decorated with beautiful paintings and paintings depicting Buddhist deities and myths. These objects shine with their vivid colours and intricate patterns, enriching the historical and spiritual fabric of the temple. During our visit the monks did their mantras which added additional speciality to the visit.
    2nd stop was Ta Dzong (watchtower), built in 1649 to protect the undefended Dzong and renovated in 1968 to house the National Museum. The unusual round building is said to be in the shape of a conch shell, with 2.5m-thick walls. The Ta Dzong suffered damage in the 2011 earthquake but reopened in 2019 as the National Museum of Bhutan. It’s housing more than 3000 artifacts dating back to 1500 years. No camera was allowed. It gave us a good understanding about the history of Bhutan.
    After visiting, we walked down a path from the museum to the Rinpung Dzong. It was constructed in 1646 under the guidance of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel, the unifier of Bhutan. It was strategically built on a hill overlooking the Paro Valley to serve as both a fortress and a monastery. The site was chosen for its defensive advantages, protecting the region from Tibetan invasions. It houses the district Monastic Body as well as government administrative offices of Paro Dzongkhag. According to the history of Paro Dzong, written by Drungchen Dasho Sangay Dorji, the rock face below the dzong was named 'Ringpung' by Guru Rinpoche in the eighth century, hence when the Dzong was later built here, it came to be known as 'Ringpung Dzong'. It is a masterpiece of traditional Bhutanese architecture, showcasing the country’s unique building techniques. The fortress is adorned with intricate wood carvings, bright murals, and exquisite paintings that narrate Buddhist legends. Inside Rinpung Dzong are fourteen shrines and chapels. We visited the Temple of the Guru's Eight Manifestations. That was one of the most impressive temples during our time in Bhutan.
    In the evening we met the son of one of Junita’s school friends from the time Junita was 14 years old. The son is studying in the USA and is doing an internship about sustainability at the local university in Paro. When we met there was a 1hour power cut in Paro and we had Momos with candles in a nice local restaurant. Nice evening!
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  • The Tiger’s Nest and a Hot Stone Bath

    4–5 Des 2024, India ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Early morning start at 7am to hit the hiking trail ahead of all the other hikers especially the Indian groups. We were right as we signed as second non Indian foreigners in to the Tigers Nest Temple Complex at 9.48am after a partially steep 5.5km hike and hiking from 2.608m up to 3.153m in 2h 20mins.
    What’s the story of the Tigers Nest?
    It is also known as the Taktsang Palphug Monastery, is a sacred Vajrayana Himalayan Buddhist site located in the cliffside of the upper Paro valley in Bhutan. It is one of thirteen Tiger's Nest caves in historical Tibet (Bhutan) in which Padmasambhava (Guru Rimponche, Lotus Born Master) practiced and taught Vajrayana. We mentioned his name before in some postings. He brought the Buddhism to Bhutan in the 8th century. He is worshipped in every temple. He is considered as a rebirth of Shakyamuni Buddha as foretold by the Buddha himself.
    A later monastery complex was built in 1692 by the 4th Druk Desi Tenzin Rabgey around the Taktsang Senge Samdup cave, where Guru Rimponche meditated and practiced with students including Yeshe Tsogyal before departing the kingdom of Tibet in the early 9th century.
    It is believed that Guru Rinpoche flew to this location from Singye Dzong (another sacred site in Bhutan) on the back of a tigress. This place was consecrated to tame the Tiger demon.
    An alternative legend holds that a former wife of an emperor willingly became a disciple of Guru Rinpoche in Tibet. She transformed herself into a tigress and carried the Guru on her back from Tibet to the present location of the Taktsang in Bhutan. In one of the caves here, the Guru then performed meditation and emerged in eight incarnated forms (manifestations) and the place became holy. Subsequently, the place came to be known as the “Tiger's Nest”.
    We had luck again with a sunny day and blue sky.
    We explored the 8 temples in the Tiger’s Nest. There were more further up which we didn’t do.
    Overall a great hike!
    Back in town to wandered around in the Centre where we enjoyed an Irish Coffee before we were taken to a farmhouse outside of Paro for our Hot Stone Bath.
    Bhutanese hot stone baths are different from other hot baths around the world because they use Menchu, which is a combination of fresh water and Artemisia absinthium (wormwood) leaves. The water is heated with river stones that are roasted until they are red hot. We had 2 different bath tubs in one little room. We asked for new hot stones twice to keep the temperature of the water high. Overall our body felt well after and the pain of our body after our hike before was massively reduced. Another great experience in Bhutan!
    In the evening we went to one of the only bars in Paro, the Park78. Great drinks, great fun! With 3 American students.
    Next day we headed back to Delhi!
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  • The final stop in Delhi

    8–13 Des 2024, India ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Finally the last chapter of our Sabbatical has arrived. Before Junita and myself fly back to the UK and Germany respectively, we decided to spend a few more days in Delhi.
    It was again catching up with family and friends and experiencing loads of great food.
    We also had the chance to join a Christmas Musical in Junita’s church from her youth. Was a great performance of the choir and the kids.
    It was great to have a few days to reset before our return to Europe. 4 amazing months are over finally. A life time experience for us!
    Nothing to say more.
    Flight leaves for Munich on the 10th 1.50am.
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    Akhir trip
    10 Desember 2024