• Toto Zapata
  • Junita Fernandez
  • Toto Zapata
  • Junita Fernandez

Junita & TG - Exploring Asia

On tour in India, Vietnam, Laos, Nepal and ….. Læs mere
  • Start på rejsen
    8. august 2024

    Reunion in Delhi

    8.–9. aug. 2024, Indien ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    And finally the journey begins….Junita and I joined forces in Delhi on August the 8th to start our 4 month Sabbatical across Asia. We desperately need this time out after an intense period in China with loads of great experiences, amazing people, a beautiful country but also challenging experiences at work and with COVID. We are ready!!! The first few days we will spend at Junita’s mums place in Delhi, exploring some places in the city and catching up with family and friends.Læs mere

  • Delhi Darshan

    9.–11. aug. 2024, Indien ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    Delhi - 33 Million inhabitants, doubled their population since 1990. Having lived in Shanghai for 3 years it was a totally different traffic experience. Of course also no electric cars and also different car brand landscape than in China. Suzuki Maruti still massively present with market share close to 50%.
    But of course we did visit some interesting places too. The highlights were:
    Humayun’s Tomb: Hamida Banu Begum, his grieving widow, built Emperor Humayun's mausoleum. Precursor to the Taj Mahal, it stands on a platform of 12000m and reaches a height of 47m. The earliest example of Persian influence in Indian architecture, the tomb has within it over 100 graves, earning it the name,
    'Dormitory of the Mughals'. Built of rubble masonry, the structure is the first to use red sandstone and white marble in such great quantities.
    We explored as well Old Delhi where Junita has not been for 40 years. Here we were early at the Jama Masjid Mosque. It was great to enjoy the silence. We also had to chance to climb up the Minarett overlooking Delhi. The Mosque was built by Shahjahan, the fifth Mughal emperor of India. The construction did start in October 1650 and it has space for 25.000 praying people.
    With Rikscha we explored then the Chandni Chowk with tiny bazaar crammed lanes. A great experience was our visit of the Sikh tempel Gurdwara Sis Ganj Sahib. It is one of nine historical Gurdwaras in Delhi. It was first constructed in 1783 as a small shrine by Baghel Singh to commemorate the martyrdom site of the ninth Simh Guru, Tegh Bahadur. This holy place commemorates also the Martyrdom of Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Sahib Ji who sacrificed his life for the rights of the Hindus to exercise their faith and was beheaded at this place on 11th Nov 1675A.D.
    The day was rounded up with the passing by of the Red Fort (closed due to upcoming India Independence Day), the memorial place for Mahatma Gandhi, the India Gate (stands as a memorial to 74,187 soldiers of the Indian Army who died between 1914 and 1921 in the First World War) and finally the Connaught Place Area, New Delhi’s colonnaded heart. Loads of memories came back to Junita from here teenager time.

    And of course we had a great time with Junita’s mum Rita, with Junita’s sister Rosita and her husband Justin, with Junita’s long standing friend Rekha and her daughter Rahil. Good Indian food was an important part of this first few days of our trip.
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  • Saigon or Ho Chi Minh City?

    12.–14. aug. 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Vietnam - History plays of course a permanent part of your sightseeing when you visit Vietnam or especially Saigon. Our night flight from Delhi to Ho Chi Minh City (including long queues and waiting time at Delhi airport) arrived at 6,45am. Smooth immigration process and taxi ride led us to the famous Majestic Hotel at the River Saigon. To bridge the time till we finally got our rooms we had a nice breakfast at Annam Gourmet and a first walk in downtown Saigon (District 1). Was good to settle in. Next highlight of the day was the guided food tour in the late afternoon on the scooter. So we experienced local food and had also the chance to explore other parts of Saigon. Excellent experience!
    Vietnam is also known for their love for beer which is manifested in many craft breweries. I tried the Jasmin IPA from the Pasteur Brewery.
    Second day was reserved for the visit of the War Remnants Museum. Loads of American militaria in front of the building and explanations about the war against France (till the final victory of Vietnam in Dien Bien Phu in 1954) and of course against the USA (or how it was mentioned on many explanations: The war of America against the Vietnamese people) . Very interesting set up but of course with many horrible sad stories and pictures. I was especially interested in the section about Journalists who were engaged due to their job in the Vietnam war. So many interesting photos and in many cases also the story about their death or disappearance during the war. Not easy to take but sad reality was the Agent Orange section.
    After that a very good lunch at the Propaganda Bistro and then quick passing of the Notre Dame Cathedral (under renovation, built between 1877 and 1883) and visit of the Central Post Office, a city landmark from the French era, built between 1886 and 1891.
    30 degree at 5.45 pm and high humidity at the moment when I write this post in the roof terrace of the Majestic Hotel: Therefore a nap in the afternoon is part of our program.
    Tonight we will explore another interesting restaurant (Secret Garden) which is on the top 20 list in Ho Ho Chi Minh City. Stay tuned!
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  • Good bye Saigon

    14.–15. aug. 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Today we are leaving Saigon to head to our next place. Yesterday we took the obligatory trip to the Cu Chi Tunnels, around 55km outside of Saigon. The tunnels were built by the Vietcong, first time in the 40ties against the French. Really in use were they finally in the 60ties against the US and their allies. 250km underground network with up to 3 floors. The place was of course very touristy but all was explained very well by our guide. The rest of the day was dedicated to food and city walking.Læs mere

  • Nha Trang - Home of the Cham

    18.–20. aug. 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    First time we touched the sea in Vietnam. Nha Trang, where the Russian signs are a normality along with the Vietnamese sentences. A typical summer holiday place with loads of hotels and a long nice beach.
    The only sightseeing we did was the visit of the Po Nagar Towers of the Champa kingdom which was built between the 7th and 12th century. Loads of Indian influence on the buildings. The temple is still used for worship by Cham, Chinese and Vietnamese Buddhists.
    The rest was chilling, eating and drinking.
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  • Life‘s a Beach at Bai Bang

    20.–23. aug. 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    Finally it was proper beach time. Thanks to Lonely Planet we found “Life’s a Beach”. A wonderful 1Star accommodation which is owned by 2 English guys who came as backpacker to Vietnam in 2013. At a nice beach strip with little bungalows, good service and nice people around we had finally the time to relax and to hear the waves day in day out. Water was clean and fresh. They offered family dinner in the evening and games afterwards. Was great to connect with people.
    The only time we did step out of our place was when we took a small boat with other guests to Monkey Island. Was a nice distraction but very hot!
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  • My Son - Kingdom of Champa

    23.–24. aug. 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    We arrived on the 23rd outside of Hoi An after traveling 6h in the sleeper bus. Grab taxi took as quickly to our Hotel, the Art Museum Villa on Cam Nam Island, next to the ancient town of Hoi An.
    On of our excursions there took as early in the morning at 5am to My Son, around 26km away from Hoi An.
    My Son means „Beautiful Mountain“ and is the site of the most extensive Cham remains. My Son was once the most important intellectual and religious centre of the Kingdom of Champa. The Kingdom flourished between the 2nd and 15th century. Chams became Indianised through commercial ties. Adopting Hinduism and using Sanskrit as a sacred language and borrowing from Indian art. Many temples have been destroyed by US bombs in 1968 when the Vietcong did hide there.
    The Chams were in constant state of war with the Vietnamese in the North and the Khmers to the Southwest. The Chams were finally absorbed by Vietnam in the 17th century.
    Nowadays still 140.000 Chams live in Vietnam, a substantial ethnic minority.
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  • Hoi An Ancient Town

    24.–26. aug. 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 34 °C

    Probably the most atmospheric and interesting town in Vietnam. Packed with old buildings from the glorious past. Not touched during the Vietnam war. The town has a legacy of Japanese merchant houses, Chinese guildhalls, ancestral halls and tea warehouses. But the tourism is taking over. More and more rice fields outside the town are disappearing for construction. And the town is packed with Chinese and South Korean tourists.
    It was by the way the first place in Vietnam which was exposed to Christianity in the 17th Century.
    But what did we do? We rented a bike to explore the nearby areas, had a try in the bamboo boat, walked a lot and dived into the restaurant life in the Ancient Town.
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  • Hoi An - An Bang Beach

    26.–28. aug. 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    Before we head further north we added 2 more beach days into our diary. We found a wonderful 3 bedroom hotel right next to the An Bang beach 15mins away from Hoi An. Short distances to the beach, the market, the restaurants and the bars but very quiet. Really great choice!
    So we squeezed in 2 massages at our place and a cooking course in Tra Que Vegetable Village which was a great experience. We were a small group with 2 young British travellers and an Australian couple from Brisbane. And we had a real good teacher!
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  • Hue - Former Capital of Vietnam

    28.–29. aug. 2024, Vietnam ⋅ 🌩️ 36 °C

    Hue - capital of Vietnam from 1802 to 1945. Often not chosen as a stop by travelers but it’s absolutely worth it. Very relaxed atmosphere and nice setting along the perfume river.
    Home of the Nguyen dynasty from 1802 a 1945. Then, Emperor Bao Dai abdicated in 1945 and the Democratic Republik of Vietnam was established with its capital in the North, in Hanoi.
    Hue was also location of one of the heaviest and bloodiest battles during the Vietnam war starting on the 31.01.1968. It is commonly known as the Tet offensive by the North Vietnamese army which came as a surprise to the Americans. The North controlled the citadel for 3.5 weeks and overall up to 10.000 people were killed during this time, by of the North but as well by the bombing of the US/South-Vietnamese.
    We visited the Citadel of Hue, the former forbidden city of the Vietnamese emperor, which suffered a lot of destruction during the Vietnam war especially in 1968 through the American bombing.
    A trip to the Dong Ba market was part of our itinerary along with the visit of the Thien Mu Pagoda. Here we could also see the Austin Car which took the monk Thich Quang Duc to Saigon in 1963 where he burnt himself to protest against the governments discrimination of the Buddhists. Diem, the President of South Vietnam at the time was catholic. A short time afterwards the President and his brother were removed and finally executed by Diems military.
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  • Ninh Binh - Trang An Experience

    30. aug.–2. sep. 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    After a bumpy 13h overnight train journey we did reach Ninh Binh. Quickly we arrived at our first homestay in Vietnam, 7km outside of Ninh Binh between Tam Coc and Trang An. Place with 7 rooms in a quiet village but restaurants were reachable with a 15 mins walk. Very talkative owner so we learnt a bit about the implications of the Vietnam war and agent orange on the family and as well about Buddha but that’s a different story…
    Our stay happened at the same time as a the start of the national holiday weekend. 79 years ago on the 2nd September Ho Chi Minh declared independence of Vietnam at a rally in Hanoi. So loads of Vietnam flags are out on the road these days and traffic increased but much less than what we experienced in a China during National Holidays.
    What did we do? We went to our 3h Trang An boat ride on the Sao Khe River passing 3 caves (one was 1km long) and 3 temples. Very touristy but very nice.
    Hoa Lu was the next place to visit by bike. First capital of Vietnam from 968 - 1010. Not much left but nice setting.
    Second day we did the hike up the Hang Múa. 1h and we sweated like hell. Great view from the peak.
    Food wise we tried goat meat as the area is famous for it. Was ok not mind blowing. Beer is mainly Hanoi Beer for 20.000 Dong, around 80 Cent.
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  • Sa Pa - The Roof of Indochina

    2.–5. sep. 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Sa Pa, in the North-West of Vietnam, 380km North of Hanoi, lying on 1.600m. The area is home to ethnic minority groups such as Hmong, Dao (Yao), Giáy, Xa Pho, and Tay. Sa Pa is also home to the highest peak in Indochina, the Mount Fansipan with 3.143m. The area is known for their hiking opportunities.
    We were here for 3 nights and really enjoyed the time. Escaping the extreme humidity from Ninh Binh did we enjoy 24 degree throughout the day.
    We took the cable car towards Mount Fansipan (longest nonstop, three-rope cable car in the world, spanning 6.3 km ) and climbed up the remaining step steps up to the top. Unfortunately it was very cloudy but it was still very enjoyable.
    On the second day we did a 12km hike passing wonderful rice fields and some minority villages of the Black Hmong and the Red Dzao.
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  • The Ha Giang Loop

    5.–9. sep. 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 35 °C

    The Ha Giang Loop was for sure one of the highlights of our sabbatical. Ha Giang is based in the North East of Vietnam, 300 km from Hanoi. It’s on of the poorest regions in Vietnam and is relying heavily on new tourism.
    We decided to do the 3 day motor bike tour/2 overnight Ha Giang loop which covers a distance of around 300 km. It was a breathtaking ride through some of the most spectacular scenery Vietnams.
    We had great travel companions from England, the Netherlands, Argentina, Israel and the US. Small but very entertaining group. The drivers of the motorbikes were very experienced and calm pilots.
    Unfortunately we were as well impacted by the typhoon Yagi as on the last day it was a 150km drive with massive rain and a lot of wind.
    A ride which is a must when you come to Vietnam. Do it!
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  • Hanoi - The last stop in Vietnam

    9.–13. sep. 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    After 8h in the bus and a lot of rain we did reach Hanoi, the last stop of our 4 weeks in Vietnam. The city was as also seriously hit by Typhoon Yagi as around 2.500 trees fell down and in the aftermath the Red River was extremely high. But the Vietnamese are resilient. They cleared the roads from the broken trees very quickly and the life went on. They stuck together in other parts of North Vietnam where a huge wave of support did help the hit counties.
    As we were in Hanoi already last year in June for an extended weekend (covered at the time the Hanoi Hilton Prison, the Den Ngoc Son Pagoda at Hoan Kiem Lake, the citadel, the Hi Chi Minh Mausoleum and so on), and this time we just relaxed in the old town. Was also necessary as still a lot of rain poured down. But we were able to do a food tasting tour (Hanoi is hot spot regarding delicious food) and did a lot of walking. But most important was the chill out time! In addition to great Vietnamese food we also encountered twice great Indian food. Also Indian tourism is clearly coming to Vietnam.
    Now we are heading to Luang Prabang in Laos.
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  • Welcome to Laos - Luang Prabang

    13.–17. sep. 2024, Laos ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    First time to Laos. What is Important to know about Laos?

    1. System/ Population: Laos, officially the Lao People's Democratic Republic (LPDR), is the only landlocked country in Southeast Asia. It was part of former French Indochina. Gained independence as Kingdom of Laos in 1953 and in 1975 a One party socialist republic was established. Laos is one of the few remaining communist states in the world. There are 132 ethnic groups in Laos. The country has a population of about 7 million people.
    2. The Laos Psyche (Lonely Planet): Buddhism is defining factor. Strong emotions are taboo. The Lao tend not to get to worked up over the future. „Too much work is bad for your brain“. The Lao are very good at enjoying the „now“.
    3. Bombing during the Vietnam war. From 1964-1973, Laos was the target of history's largest bombing campaign by the United States. The country has since been ranked as the most heavily bombed country per capita in the world. A planeload of munitions every 8 minutes, twenty-four hours a day for nine years orover 500,000 planeloads dropped on the country. The problem nowadays is that around 80 million bomblets remain as
    Unexploded Ordnance (UXO) in Laos and are creating are massive risk for the population in Laos.

    Our first stop coming from Hanoi was the jewel of Laos, Luang Prabang. We could see on arrival the high water of the Mekong caused by opening of the dams on the Chinese side which over the next few days went steadily down. After the hussle and noise in Hanoi it was a totally different world here. All very calm, not much traffic, very clean and very welcoming. LP is a Unesco Heritage with 33 wats.

    We visited the UXO Information Centre to learn about death or injury from unexploded ordnance (UXO), the TAEC Museum (Traditional Arts & Ethnology Center) and finally the National Museum which was the former Royal Palace till 1975.

    Trip to see the Kang Si Waterfalls with 16 other tourists in the Mini Bus was an interesting experience.

    Getting up at 5.30 am to see the monks call to alms.

    And finally the river, the Mekong.
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  • Vang Vieng - Outdoor Paradise

    17.–19. sep. 2024, Laos ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    We traveled by train (speed train financed by the Chinese Friends of Laos) from Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng. Nouth, our Bungalow Landlord picked us up in her a Toyota Hilux. Such a car is seriously a good choice here as the roads were full of potholes and driving is not an amusement here. The roads are heavily damaged by the weather and the Chinese trucks which are passing by.
    We rented a scooter in the afternoon and took a nice long ride along the rice fields towards the Blue Lagoon Nr. 3. It was nice place to have fun in the water but as well to explore the nearby cave or walking up to a viewing point.
    The town itself is nothing special, mainly Restaurants, Hostels, Outdoor Shops and Scooter Shops. But we did find Gary’s Irish Bar which then required a fresh pint of Guinness for me. Was tasty!
    Our place Lao Valhalla was 1.5km outside the Centre embedded into a nice green piece of land looking towards the mountains.
    Next day we did a 8km Kayaking Tour which was nice because we were mostly alone with our guide. Silence, Water, Nature! Part of the tour was also a short tour moving along in a very dark cave sitting in tubes. Also no other people.
    On our last day we took the chance to do a 30 mins hot air balloon ride to see the sunrise. Overall a nice experience and landscape.
    Finally we got dropped again at the train station by our host Nouth. Only then I found out that her cousin lived many years in Berlin. They left Laos at the end of the Vietnam war in 1975.
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  • Vientiane - Where are all the people?

    19.–22. sep. 2024, Laos ⋅ ☁️ 33 °C

    Vientiane, home to 800.000 people of the 7 Mio. in Laos. Capital of Laos. Home to an amazing endless number of Wats. Situated at the River Mekong, opposite Thailand and very hard hit by the recent flooding.
    It is a very quiet city, the roads are empty and you wonder where are all the people. Tourism is limited as it is not a very attractive city.
    We met our friends Jann and Claudia from our Shanghai time for the weekend and we had a great time despite a lot of rain on our first day and also parts of the second day.
    We visited Patuxay. Patuxay was built between 1957 and 1968 as a monument commemorating the independence of Lao PDR from French rule. The construction was guided by the numerical principles of Buddhism 3 - 7 - 9. It was built using cement seized from America, repurposed from initial plans for an airport, with the upper structure resembling the Taj Mahal palace in India. The interior is embellished with vibrant colours, featuring unique decorations such as the Kinnaly statue, Indra riding the Elavan elephant, Rahu, the Three Chaksura, and other deities from Hindu and a blend of Pham religions. It was possible to climb up to the top.
    Close by was the World Peace Gong, a symbol of World Peace and is currently in 14 different locations around the world. It is a gift from the Indonesian Government. It’s in cities like Kuala Lumpur, Maputo in Mozambique, Geneva, Kremenchuk in Ukraine.
    We had also visits to several Wats. The most impressive one was Wat Sisaket. It was built 1818 and is most likely the oldest Wat in Vientiane. Wat Sisaket features a cloister wall with more than 2,000 ceramic and silver Buddha images.
    We also went by public bus to the Buddha Park, 25km south east of Vientiane. The park contains over 200 Hindu and Buddhist statues. The socialist government operates Buddha Park as a tourist attraction and public park. Was a nice trip.
    In heavy rain we also made a walk to Pha That Luang, a national symbol of Laos and an icon of Buddhism in Laos. It is a large, gold-covered Buddhist Stupa.
    What else is to say about Vientiane. Loads of ministerial buildings. Wats on every corner. A lot of buildings financed by the Chinese government but also loads of run down empty buildings. Sometimes we walked on the roads and didn’t see any person.
    Vientiane is for sure not a hot location to visit, more the arrival or departure point when you visit Laos. 2 days are enough to get a feeling for the city.
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  • From Laos to Sumatra via Thailand

    22.–23. sep. 2024, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Our next destination was Sumatra. Took us a while to find out the best travel route.
    So we left our hotel in Vientiane at 4pm for our flight at 6.40pm to Bangkok. All went smoothly even immigration in Bangkok.
    We took the free airport bus from Suvarnabhumi Airport to Don Muang Airport and stayed at the Airport Hotel. A really great service.
    Next day departure at noon to Medan in Sumatra. From there we had a 5h transfer to Bukit Lawang with 2 other students from Hungary and Czech Republik. Its was a crazy journey as the traffic was intense and it didn’t stop for the first 2h. I’m heb we had to face really bad road conditions.
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  • Bukit Lawang - Orang-Utan trip

    23.–27. sep. 2024, Indonesien ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Our trip to Sumatra was quite a spontaneous decision. So finally we ended up in Bukit Lawang, a Sumatran Orang Utan Observation Site since 1991 and entrance point to the Gunung Leuser National Park.
    First day was acclimatisation and exploring the town which is based next to the Bahorok River. Another place where we could see that it’s not main season. Nice on the one hand side but sometimes also very dead. Our stay for the first 2 nights had massive room for improvement. Breakfast was limited to 3 choices. And cats where always part of the breakfast which delighted Junita „very much“.
    On the second day we finally started our 2day hiking tour into the National park. We had 2 nice British guys with us from Devon and for the first day as well a German lady from Stuttgart. She is traveling for 11 months.
    There are many different hiking companies who are guiding tourists into the jungle. As soon there was the rumour (after around 2h hiking) that an Orang Utan was seen the groups from all different directions came together to watch 2 Orang Utans. One was first sleeping. It was not the best experience as just too many people and I don’t want to imagine how busy it is during main season.
    Luckily we moved on to a quiet place in the jungle where we had our fruit lunch. And there out of the blue another Orang Utan appeared and stayed nearby us for 1 hour. Was great to watch! 2 other smaller groups joined us but that was ok. Everybody just enjoyed the moment. Later on in the afternoon we hiked up and down in high humidity, saw more Orang Utans and we reached our camp at the river after a step long downhill climb.
    Back to the Orang Utans. They are only present in Sumatra and Borneo. There are 3 species. The Bornean, The Sumatran and in 2017 they identified the Tapanuli orangutan. What impressed me were their proportionally long arms and short legs and they way they used them to move around. Orang Utans are among the most intelligent primates. Between 55.000 and 65.000 Orang Utans are left in the wildness.
    Which other animals did we see? An Eagle, a Hornbill, Termites, big Ants, Thomas’s Leaf monkeys, White Handed Gibbon und Makaken and finally a green tree snake.
    We stayed for one more night at another location, the Jungle Inn. Food was very good, service too. Now it’s time to leave for Lake Toba.
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  • Chilling at Tuktuk at Lake Toba

    27. sep.–1. okt. 2024, Indonesien ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Before we head back to India we decided to have 4 days at Lake Toba to relax a bit. We found a very nice hotel called Tabo Cottages at Samosir Island which was perfect for our purpose.
    Chilling is relative as I did 2 long swims in the pool, we did a 13km round walk to Huta Siallagan and we explored the village of Tuktuk. But it was nice to sit on our balcony to watch the heavy rain in the afternoon or at night.
    Of course this was also the time to celebrate Junita’s birthday. We went to Roy’s pub in the evening and before the live music did start we did hear loads of cover songs from Martin Miller. Will never forget that name. Live music was good. Old songs of our youth. Mainly local crowd. No dance.
    Lake Toba is an enormous crater lake with an island almost the size of Singapore in its center. The lake is about 100 kilometres long, 30 kilometres wide, and up to 505 metres deep. It is the largest lake in Indonesia and the largest volcanic lake in the world.
    Huta Siallagan is a village which was made by Batak people from the Siallagan clan who was later led by King Siallagan. There were rows of traditional Batak houses or Bolon houses.
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  • One night in Kuala Lumpur

    1.–2. okt. 2024, Malaysia ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    With ferry, taxi for 3h and a short flight we headed to Kuala Lumpur coming from Samosmir.
    We stayed exactly for 24h in an impressive city. So we had limited time but went to the Jalan Alor Food Street and the Helipad Rooftop Bar in the evening. Next day we explored the Central Market which was built in 1888 as a wet market and is now the market for Malaysian culture, art and craft. We passed the Merdeka Square and saw the Sultan Abdul Samad building, the former State Secretariat of the British.
    KL is a place which looked very impressive and worth for another visit on another day!
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  • Back in Delhi - Exploring more

    2.–5. okt. 2024, Indien ⋅ 🌙 29 °C

    We returned back to Delhi to start our India travel. The 2 days in Delhi were dedicated to Indian food, more sightseeing, catching up with family, friends and welcoming Junita’s son Arun and his fiancée Alice to India.
    The first sightseeing took us in the evening to Qutab Minar. Qutab Minar is the tallest brick tower in the world, standing at 73 metres high. It is a few steps smaller than the Taj Mahal. It has five storeys and a spiral staircase with 379 steps. The tower is made of red sandstone and marble. It was built to celebrate the victory of a famous leader named Qutb-ud-Din Aibak. It is part of the Qutab complex, which lies at the site of Delhi's oldest fortified city, Lal Kot, founded by the Tomar Rajputs. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the Mehrauli area of South Delhi, India. For me it was the second time I was there, first time was in 2013. But this time it was at night, was less busy and gave a different perspective.
    Next morning Junita’s sister Rosita took us the Lodi Garden. It’s a park in the center of New Delhi and contains Mohammed Shah's Tomb, the Tomb of Sikandar Lodi, the Shisha Gumbad and the Bara Gumbad. The buildings are of the 15th century by Lodis - who ruled parts of northern India and Punjab and Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province of modern-day Pakistan, from 1451 to 1526. Bara Gumbad - which means Big Dome - was most likely constructed as a gateway to the attached mosque. Both the Bara Gumbad and the mosque were built in 1494 during the reign of Sikander Lodi.
    After a nice walk in the park we finished the morning session with a tasty Dosa breakfast at the Karnataka restaurant. This restaurant exists already for 40 years and Rosita and Junita were here on the second day the restaurant opened. Interesting story!
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  • Amritsar - Home of the Golden Temple

    5.–6. okt. 2024, Indien ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Early Saturday morning we took the flight to Amritsar in Punjab.
    Amritsar was founded in 1577 by the fourth Sikh guru, Guru Ram Das and is home to the spectacular Golden Temple, Sikhism's holiest shrine.
    After checkin to our hotel we went straight to this Golden Temple. The Temple is actually just a small part of this huge gurdwara complex, known to Sikhs as Harmandir Sahib. Spiritually, the focus of attention is the tank that surrounds the gleaming central shrine – the Amrit Sarovar, from which Amritsar takes its name, excavated by the fourth Sikh guru, Ram Das, in 1577. Ringed by a marble walkway, the tank is said to have healing powers, and pilgrims come from across the world to bathe in its sacred waters. Our guide explained us everything what we have to consider to respect the rules in the temple complex. We left our shoes at the entrance, walked through the water (to wash our feet) into the inner side of the complex and there was the Golden Temple. There was a long queue to get into the Golden Temple itself. Our guide told us that it would take us at least 2h to get in so we decided just to walk around the tank. Highlight was the visit of the Guru-Ka-Langar, an enormous dining room where an estimated 50,000 pilgrims (sometimes up to 100.000 pilgrims) come to eat every day after praying at the Golden Temple. There’s no charge to eat here. Catering equally to everyone from poor people to millionaires, it's a humbling demonstration of the Sikh principles of hospitality, community service and charity.
    The meals themselves comprise simple but tasty servings of dhal, roti and rajma (kidney beans), handed out by temple workers to diners who sit cross-legged on the floor and eat off stainless steel plates.
    2nd destination was the Partition Museum. The Partition of India has been one of the most defining events in the history of the subcontinent. It was the largest migration in human history and upto 20 million people were affected. With extensive loss to life and property. The museum presents stories, materials, and documents related to the post-partition riots that followed the division of British India into two independent dominions: India and Pakistan. No photos were allowed in the museum. From my perspective very good presentation of the facts. And we learnt a lot again.
    3rd stop was the Attari Border Station, India’s First Line of Defence. In the past it was called Wagah Border but Wagah is the village on the Pakistan side and the first village in India side is Attari. The lowering of the flags ceremony at the Attari-Wagah border is a daily military practice that the security forces of India (Border Security Force, BSF) and Pakistan (Pakistan Rangers) have jointly followed since 1959. It was a short while show with a warm up of a military “entertainer” and a lot of nationalism by cheering up the crowd and by shouting loudly “Hindustan”. But worth to see.
    4th and last touristic stop for day was the night visit of the Golden Temple. Was great to see it again at night and now the Gold of the temple was much better to see. And it was still so busy. Thousands of people streamed into the temple complex and the queues for the Golden Temple were even longer as at lunch time. After that we decided to skip the dinner as we had already a very good Punjabi meal at 3pm before we went to the border.

    Sunday morning we walked back towards the Golden Temple complex. 250 meters before is the Jallianwala Bagh. What’s the story?
    On 13.04.1919 a large crowd gathered in Jallianwala Bagh, which was nearly completely enclosed by walls and had only one exit. Some were there to protest the Rowlatt Acts from WW1, which were extended by the British government of India to combat subversive activities measures, others were there to celebrate a National Holiday. Brig. Gen. Reginald Edward Harry Dyer was given the task of restoring order. Without warning, the troops opened fire on the crowd, reportedly shooting hundreds of rounds until they ran out of ammunition. It is not certain how many died in the bloodbath, but, according to one official report, an estimated 379 people were killed, and about 1,200 more were wounded. After they ceased firing, the troops immediately withdrew from the place, leaving behind the dead and wounded.
    The massacre stunned the people and became a turning point in the history of India’s struggle for freedom. It left a permanent scar on Indo-British relations and was the start to Mahatma Gandhi’s full commitment to the cause of Indian nationalism and independence from Britain.
    Afterwards we strolled through the narrow streets of old Amritsar and I had the chance to take a few really good shots of the local scene. We saw another Temple complex (a copy of the Golden Temple) with no traffic and finally the Gobindgarh Fort. It spans 263 years, right from the era of the Bhangi Misl to Maharaja Ranjit Singh to the British East India Company to the Indian Army. The most famous story is for sure the capture of the Fort by Maharaja Ranjit Singh by defeating the Bhangies. It is also reported that Maharaja Ranjit Singh kept his treasure at the Toshakhana (a separate building inside the fort) which included the famous Koh-i-Noor diamond.
    Overall a better than expected trip to Amritsar. Absolutely to recommend!
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  • Next pit stop in Delhi

    6.–8. okt. 2024, Indien ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

    After the great weekend in Amritsar we did come back to Delhi to pack our stuff for our next 6 weeks in India and Sri Lanka with all the learnings from the first 8 weeks in Vietnam, Laos and Indonesia. It was also time to welcome Junita’s son Rajesh in Delhi who will travel with us to Jaipur, Goa and Mumbai.
    No sightseeing this time just doing last minute shopping before departure and getting fed by Junitas mum Rita.
    Now we are on our 5h car drive journey to Jaipur.
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