📍 Espanha Leia mais
  • Dia 11

    Najera to San Domingo - cold but lovely

    1 de junho, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Set off at 7 this morning after a night punctuated by loud revels outside the window. It really didn’t look like a party town but clearly transformed after we turned in for the night!
    A beautiful morning - unexpected because the forecast was just for cloud.
    Quite an easy 20k today with lots of glorious views - again I would love to be able to paint but I don’t have a painterly bone in my body.
    San Domingo is the cathedral town with the interesting story about chickens (see last year’s blog). The one place where it looked as if I could eat something doesn’t open for food until 8 so not sure that’s a runner
    Instead persuaded a bar to make me a cheese sandwich and chips so all good!
    Cress is doing lots of drawing and I have caught up with my Spanish following a walk around the town and the cathedral. Still in search of ‘horse of the day’ for liv so will go about again in a minute so look for it.
    I think the pictures will be more interesting than the words today!
    Had a glass of wine in a sunny square by the cathedral with lots of music and dancing from supporters of the local football team - assume they won today. Then another glass of wine with Bernie, David and Linda back at the sandwich place. Major works going on to erect a functioning tv outside for the champions league final - might be another noisy night but think we are facing the right way tonight.
    Met up with Nick from last year who is the same as ever minus calf injury so he’s carrying his bag. Will be good to spend a bit of time with him again
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  • Dia 10

    Logroño to Najera - with gazpacho

    31 de maio, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    We set ourselves a long day today - about 29k. After a noisy night in the heart of the tapas bar district of Logroño Cress and I were up at 5.30 leaving Melinda sleeping as this was her last day and she’s only walking to Navarette.
    A quiet level walk out of Logroño through a park and a nature reserve. Saw the family of red squirrels again at exactly the same place as last year.
    Spent most of the day walking with Bernie and Linda from Canada (via Ireland ) and David from southern Spain (via uk). It was cold - rarely took off my fleece and arrived cold needing a hot shower to warm up.
    Finally got a coffee and breakfast (but only a croissant - no tortilla) in Navarrete after about 12 k but my hands were so cold I managed to drop a plate - very embarrassing!
    The scenery was uniform after the parks on the outskirts of Logroño - red earth with vines - we are now in Rioja after all.
    Some cornflowers for the first time in the hedgerows.
    My shoulders were a bit uncomfortable today but planning some stretches before dinner! I was probably carrying to much today including a lot of gazpacho, cherries and peaches - most of which I did actually eat on the way. But was still very hungry when I arrived so had a beer and a cheese sandwich by the river.
    Nice hotel - Hotel Duques de Nájera - with a bath!! Haven’t had one yet tho.
    Hoping for food tonight not just snacks as I’m very hungry. 🤤
    Post some Meryl stretches we went to eat at the place that said they could do something veggie at 7.30 - got there and they said ‘no -8’ so had to wander around for a bit. Finally ate am quite a weird meal of vegetable stew, pasta and tomato sauce and chips and ice cream - but its calories and that’s fundamentally what I need.
    When I got back to the hotel I couldn’t believe my eyes when Paul from last years Camino was there! Big hugs and total surprise later turns out that Nick is also here - quite extraordinary to meet them again! And they are staying at the same hotel tonight.
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  • Dia 9

    Torres del Rio to Logroño - and a hoopoe

    30 de maio, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    A (relatively) slow start at hostal didn’t start serving breakfast til 6.40. I don’t usually want breakfast but did want a coffee as there wasn’t another stop until just over 10k. So set off at 7.20 which felt like midday.
    Beautiful morning and the first bird I heard, and then actually saw as they don’t hide like most of the little birds, was a hoopoe. I haven’t seen one of these since I was a child so it was super exciting and has made my day.
    Undulating start - walking through groves of almond trees and cherry trees - actually pretty hard ups and downs - but all good and really enjoyed meeting some new people. Just before Viana heard a Thekla’s lark (if you were interpreting its sound musically it would have been a flute in high register rather than a violin!).
    Stopped in Viana for coffee and tortilla with lots of other pilgrims, then the long slog on to Logroño - lots of tarmac and road noise but also the beautiful Rosa de Camino de Santiago coming into the city.
    Walked with Yao from China. She is living in Valencia studying Spanish. Her parents are not very thrilled about her doing the Camino - they think she’s becoming a beggar, that it will be very dangerous and that she will get a suntan. She’s finding them very annoying at the moment and says that she is finally living her own life, having spent years basically doin what they want her to do. Really enjoyed talking with her and I hope I meet her again on the road tomorrow.
    After a visit to the cathedral went in a tapas bar crawl (I struggled with being quite tired, not a great drinker and not being able to eat much of the food ) and met many Camino companions including Yao.
    Street still buzzing but I need to sleep now.
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  • Dia 8

    Estella to Torres del Rio

    29 de maio, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Anticipating another very hot day and a 30k walk I left at 6 in the dark. Saw the sun rise around 6.45.
    The first 5k to the wine fountain was cool and quiet - not many other pilgrims or anyone else really. Unfortunately the much anticipated wine fountain now only starts at 8 or 9 am so I was too early. Given how horrible the wine is I wasn’t too bothered as experienced it last year.
    First coffee - after about 6k. Delightful little cafe run by a mad Dutchman - great food including vegetarian sandwiches to take a way for lunch! (First I’ve seen in Spain!) , bonkers pricing - too boring to explain - and he had stroop waffles - also first I’ve seen I. Spain.
    Along the way heard quails in the cornfields, frogs in the ditches and first Zittings Cisticola and Cetti’s Warbler. As well as nightingales and turtle doves. A white butterfly led me into Los Arcos and after Los Arcos saw swallowtails. About six or seven large birds of prey were circling over a tractor in a field of vines - assume they were hoping for small creatures to be disturbed by the tractor and break cover?
    As for people - at a lively food truck with comfortable seat under the olive trees and lots of good things to eat and drink I met the 84 year old man from Japan again (several times today) and a mother and daughter from the US who are walking 40k today. They have just passed our hotel (where I’ve done my washing and had a swim) and still have about 12k to go (it’s 4pm now).
    The trail out of Los Arcos to Torres del Rio was long and hot - absolutely no shade most of the way - met Cayman friends under the only tree casting shade and ate my lunch. Then on to Torres where the hotel is a haven - wonderful pool and good room and - im assured - a great vegetarian cena. I’m so tired I think I will sleep well tonight.
    Went to visit the c12 octagonal church - connected with the knights Templar. Beautiful - remember it from last year.
    Lovely vegetarian dinner with a bottle of wine between 3.
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  • Dia 7

    Puente la Reina to Estella - cuckoo #1

    28 de maio, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    Great nights sleep despite the cell like room. Left at 7 and it was the most beautiful morning, tho cold. 6 degrees initially but now it’s 26!
    I was so happy! Exquisite day with more flowers, birds and the first cuckoo, which is always important. I know I’ll hear many more but the first one is exciting.
    Coffee after about 5k which is perfect. Then it became hotter and hotter as we walked though some beautiful hill villages.
    At Lorca I bought a sparkling water and sat for a while in the shade. Then after another hot stretch found the perfect bench seat in the shade where I had some lunch.
    However we have a problem as Cressida has hurt her leg and doesn’t know whether she’s going to be able to walk. A bit of a disaster! She’s yet to consult a pharmacist and I’m hoping it may not be as bad as she thinks but not good after less than a week. The walking is definitely tough particularly when you are carrying your stuff.
    So finally arrived around 2. It was very very hot and I was wilting. Very pleased to get Hostal de los Curtidores - the same place that Caroline and I stayed in last year and right at the beginning of the town. Did the inevitable washing and went to see what time one of my favourite restaurants of the Camino - Bar Mundo- opened - only to find that it was closed for ‘works’ today. Disaster as I was really hungry and in need of a proper meal. So change of plan and found another bar with some veggie food and a terrace overlooking the river. Food was good - service not so good but location was fab. Ice cream and a spot of food shopping later and I am in bed at 8.30 - very exhausted and aiming to set off at 6 tomorrow because of the heat.
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  • Dia 6

    Pamplona to Puente la Reina

    27 de maio, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Set off from Pamplona after a dodgy nights sleep. Two rounds of very loud dustbin lorries collecting from, what seemed like, right outside the window at about midnight then at about 1.15. To make things worse I was wide awake well before 5 tho didn’t need to get up till 6. Two proper coffees at the hostal helped to revive me a bit.
    Anyway got going by 7 for the urban walk out of Pamplona in much colder, cloudier conditions. Found breakfast at about 8 in a funny little old bar - great tortilla.
    Then a long hike up Alto de Perdón to the iron pilgrim sculptures and whirring wind turbines. It was extremely windy so unlike last year no one lingered long but headed down pretty fast to the bottom where it must have been a degree or two warmer.
    Not many places to stop today and we hadn’t really brought lunch (bread but no cheese) so it was a hungry walk and I was pretty desperate by the end of the afternoon.
    Some pretty villages and eventually found somewhere to have a cup of tea which was very exciting!
    Weather improved a bit with some sunshine towards the end of the walk - but the cold wind persisted throughout and made it very uncomfortable at times as I just don’t have enough clothes for post walk.
    Fabulous flowers again today - can’t believe the variety along the way - including beautiful irises which I don’t remember seeing before.
    Another nightingale plus corn buntings and serins to listen to.
    Puente la Reina is a lovely town - I hardly saw it last time as it was under water following torrential downpours but this time I was able to wander around and appreciate it more fully. Dinner at Vinoteca Ganbara again - wonderful food and wine and felt good supporting a very small business rather than going somewhere more commercial (not that many places are very commercial around here).
    Not very taken with the hostal but we have sheets and towels and our own bathroom which is good.
    Still thinking about Freddie and lit a candle for him at the church of San Andres in Zariquiegui
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  • Dia 5

    Zubiri to Pamplona - a day of flowers

    26 de maio, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Walking today was full of the sounds of water - running in channels alongside the path and then in the river Arba. The weather is warm today but not too hot - plenty of shade on the path but also banks of wild flowers and the scent of wild roses and honeysuckle.
    I heard my first nightingale today - hoping for many more.
    We left around 7.30 and arrived in Pamplona at about 2. I had my first good nights sleep at Suseia in Zubiri and tonight at the Aloha hostel in Pamplona there are sheets and towels for the first time which is very exciting. Caroline and I stayed here last time and I think we have the identical room but one floor up.
    It didn’t seem quite so far to the hostel this time - maybe we are a bit less tired this time?
    The walk today was moderate - some undulations but fundamentally quite level. First coffee didn’t happen until about 10k but when it did it was good - delicious coffee and a great spinach tortilla.
    Managed to buy more cherries on the walk into Pamplona despite it being a Sunday so all good on the cherry craving front.
    Now planning to explore the city a bit and hopefully get into the cathedral which we didn’t do last time if I remember right.
    Well the cathedral was closed - again - so I’ll just have to come back again!
    It suddenly cooled down this afternoon so I was very cold in my summer dress - but still managed a fab ice cream after tapas at Bar Groucho with other friends from the Camino. Then back to the hostel where we sat around in the living area chatting for a while before what I’m hoping will be another early night and good sleep.
    The city is still buzzing but I’m tired.
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  • Dia 3

    Roncesvalles to Zubiri

    24 de maio, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    This is going to be a short entry because I’m feeling very sad.
    My precious and beloved springer spaniel Freddie died today. I didn’t really get to say a proper goodbye to him because I’m here. But he was with Richard Olivia Sasha Toby and Arthur who loved him too. I’m now imagining that he will be on this Camino with me, with his favourite tennis ball and enjoying lots of swimming in the rivers.
    Scenery beautiful, weather beautiful, many tears.
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  • Dia 3

    Orisson to Roncesvalles

    24 de maio, França ⋅ 🌙 6 °C

    Pretty rubbish night at Orisson hostel with whispering (couple opposite my bed) snoring and people going in and out to the loo - I was right by the door so the hall light shone onto me every time someone got up. The whole dorm started moving before 6 despite breakfast starting at 7 (and you do need to eat breakfast at this place as there is nothing certain until Roncesvalles!).
    Anyway I got over having to get up 45 minutes earlier than I wanted and felt better after a couple of cups of coffee.
    Set off at 7.50 in beautiful weather and had the most glorious walk in the high Pyrenees. Cool air but bright sun, perfect for walking and I saw the snow capped peaks that I missed last time because of the cloud. Also a pair of eagles - tried to get a photograph but very difficult to capture them.
    Ate a picnic lunch with the last of the sandwiches from home, crisps and an apple in a field with a horse but not a person in sight.
    We arrived in Roncesvalles just before 1 and checked into the monastery. I really wanted to stay here but was feeling quite nervous as I was concerned that it would be very basic and cold. In fact it’s wonderful - I still may not get any sleep but the dorms are fab and the facilites great. Lots of hot water, single sex bathrooms great laundry facilities, vending machines with everything you might need and wonderful grounds with washing lines to dry the clothes. My washing is already clean and dry!
    After arriving went to the local bar for very welcome beer and chips - hoping the meal tonight will be as good!
    Have done my Pilates stretches and now ready for dinner and then hopefully more sleep than last night!
    Very sad news from home so could t write any more - sorry 😔
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  • Dia 2

    At Orisson

    23 de maio, França ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Had a fab sleep and finally warmed up (they have blankets here) then pottered around until dinner. Very busy cena with introductions from all the other pilgrims at the end of the meal.
    Despite all the good stuff I’m feeling anxious because the news from home about freddie (my springer spaniel) is not good. He has a raging infection and has been on a drip at the vets all day. I took him before I left as I was worried about him but he seems a lot worse. He’s quite old and I’m very worried about him. My family are doing a great job but I’m feeling very guilty about not being there to help them and him. They are all in my thoughts tonight.Leia mais

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