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  • Dag 2

    At Orisson

    23 maj, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Had a fab sleep and finally warmed up (they have blankets here) then pottered around until dinner. Very busy cena with introductions from all the other pilgrims at the end of the meal.
    Despite all the good stuff I’m feeling anxious because the news from home about freddie (my springer spaniel) is not good. He has a raging infection and has been on a drip at the vets all day. I took him before I left as I was worried about him but he seems a lot worse. He’s quite old and I’m very worried about him. My family are doing a great job but I’m feeling very guilty about not being there to help them and him. They are all in my thoughts tonight.Läs mer

  • Dag 2

    St Jean Pied de Port to Orisson

    23 maj, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Well I’m definitely not as fit as I was last year! This was very hard - felt almost vertical at times. My legs were fine but felt like I was about to expire at moments.
    Had a reasonable night at Auberge Bidean - quite a lot of coughing noises but still slept enough. Didn’t need an early start as Orisson is only about three hours away - although we did it faster than that despite feeling knackered for most of it. Had a wander round the beautiful St Jean. Lit a candle in the church and had a delicious breakfast of fab coffee and the best pain au raisin ever.
    Set off about 9.45 in perfect (for hard walking) weather. Cool and quite cloudy but dry.
    I am a bit worried as I did find this stage really hard but am hoping I will get fitter quite quickly.
    Arrived at Orisson and found our beds in a ten person dorm then went for a drink and I had a bowl of soup as was feeling very cold having got sweaty on the climb. Unfortunately that didn’t really help and I just got colder and colder. Eventually my fingers - all ten - went white and stopped working so I had to use my precious shower token in an attempt to warm up.
    It has worked thank goodness and have done my bit of washing and now have eaten some of my day old sandwiches with crisps. Aiming to have a short sleep this afternoon as I am still feeling tired. Will check back in later!
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  • Dag 1

    And the end of the first day

    22 maj, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Arrived at St Jean in the pouring rain so had to hastily find and don huge poncho thing -but it actually worked well. Got to the Auberge Beilan without going wrong as it’s close to where I stayed last year. No bunks and lots of lovely people so all very good. Dinner was fab - home cooked soup and veggie dish followed by fabulous chocolate torte. After dinner went for a short walk - the town is stunning and the weather had Clea Ed so we could see some mountains. Recorded my first birdsong.
    Now lights are out and someone is already snoring gently! I’m going to be wearing headphones! But very tired so hope I’ll sleep through any communal noise that seeps through.
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  • Dag 1

    A long day

    22 maj, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Still on the train heading south but nearly at Bayonne now - it’s the next stop.
    Having got up at 3.30am I’m feeling a bit tired but hopefully that means I’ll sleep tonight whatever the dormitory is like. The train is good and this leg is quiet. I’ve read a bit, watched a bit of tv and tried to snooze but not very successfully. I’m not good at sleeping on transport. Looking forward to an hour in Bayonne as the sun is shining on and off and then the final stretch to St Jean Pied de Port and the Albergue. Temperature outside is 20 and not raining so all good!Läs mer

  • Dag 1

    The beginning

    22 maj, England ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Finally on my way for a second Camino Frances! I’m feeling very blessed as it’s been touch and go for so long. Despite plans to walk with Cressida going back to sometime last year I was then hospitalised in the Marsden for 10 days in January and left with massive loss of strength and huge dietary problems - so thought I’d never make it Then I injured my knee treating to go back to ballet too quickly. However owing to some fantastic professionals (my team at the Marsden, Tracey Vinnicombe sports therapist) and my amazing family I’m on the Eurostar ready to depart and feeling pretty strong again.
    I haven’t done much practice this time with the bag and the hills but hoping I’ll get fit as I go (going over the Pyrenees!)
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  • Dag 51

    Last entry I promise - to the town of Mu

    12 juli 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Final steps into the little town of Muxia.
    From the parador we walked along the path behind the beach back onto the Camino for the last time.
    The path curves along by the quiet road into Muxia.
    Muxia is on a headland with the town stretching from the port on one side to the bay on the other. The iconic chapel and ‘stone boat’ are out on the headland. First we went to explore the port side and of course came across first, James, about to set off on the bus to Santiago! He’s really quite an unlikely Camino soulmate but seems to be the person who inevitably pops up at every significant moment. Then as we were drinking coffee, Alan and Janet walked past - also on their way to the bus but in this case to Finisterre as they had walked the Muxia route and were going on to spend a few days in Finisterre. They are bound for a Japanese Camino next apparently. Also met up with Geoff and Sailor, father and daughter from Chicago who we fist came across at Santa Marina - Casa Pepa. So many great people.
    Delicious churros with the coffee.
    Then out to the rocks, the chapel, the Herida sculpture and the real ending - although there have been a few. We were blessed with perfect weather again, clouds and sun making for a dramatic backdrop to a dramatic landscape.
    After climbing to the very top where we could look down on both sides of the town as well as across to the parador and further we walked back into the town to find some lunch. On the way we saw what I think must have been dolphins chasing a shoal of fish which was extremely exciting
    Lunch in a little restaurant in a street behind the port was perfect - salad, local bread, padrón peppers and chips (and fish for Richard).
    It took about 45 minutes to walk back to the parador - I chose to walk along the beach (Richard had stayed behind in the town to get a couple of presents).
    I’ve clearly and very evidently run out of superlatives for this whole experience and this area. All I can say is, if you’re reading this and tempted to try it, do it!! It’s a unique and very special experience.
    I’m in the process of applying to be a hospitalero at Guacelmo in the future and really hoping I’ll be accepted - maybe even for next year. I definitely feel the need to give something back for my Camino.
    Also still hoping there will be others!
    Stop press: bumped into my German friend at the airport (he of the vegan hostels who was not vegetarian and didn’t like the food and didn’t speak a word of English or Spanish - and I speak no German). So regardless of the fact that we can’t understand each other at all we had a hug and a ‘conversation’ somehow. He is on his way back to Frankfurt - he loved his Camino, got his Compostela and continued on to Finisterre and Muxia. Having been his dorm companion for several nights it felt very sad to say goodbye.
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  • Dag 50

    Finisterre to Muxia - the real ending

    11 juli 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We set off from Finisterre in cool cloud which was lucky as it was another pretty long walk (25km). We came across a very welcome donativo house offering coffee, fruit and snacks where we stopped for a while, in Buxán. The woman who ran it was Falician but had lived in the UK in Chichester for 19 years so spoke perfect English. She was reading a huge hardback copy of Women Running with wolves. I’m inspired to read it.
    The sun was out by the time we stopped to have breakfast at a hotel bar looking over another beautiful beach. From here although warm in the sun there was plenty of shade as the path led through trees for much of the time. It was quite hard going - a lot of steep climbs and then some rocky downhill parts. We had a second coffee in Lires and the headed off the main Camino path just before Muxia to reach the parador at Costa da Morte.
    The path was mainly inland and although we were parallel to the sea the whole time we rarely saw it. Lots of wind turbines though - Galicia is definitely committed to renewable energy.
    The Costa da Morte parador is an extraordinary hotel - built very recently into the hillside - at first sight a bit like a telly tubby house. The floors go down rather than up (reception is zero and then down to the rooms from there) and the lift goes sideways as well as down. Quite surreal. But all beautifully designed. Hotels are generally not my best thing but this is the most beautifully designed one I’ve ever stayed in and I would love to return.
    The room was striking with lots of interesting features (like a loo that lights up at night!). It had a view over a green flowery meadow to what is undoubtedly the loveliest beach I’ve ever seen or been to. A perfect y red ent of white sand, crystal clear blue water and deserted! Nothing around it except the hotel and that is designed into the hillside. Added bonus that the path down while it starts reasonably easy, is relatively long and ends with a bit of a scramble onto the beach so most people seem to be out off by that and don’t bother going down there. Perfect for those who do go! But I guess that’s very selfish! No umbrellas or infrastructure of any kind so only for the dedicated swimmer!
    I loved it!
    We didn’t walk into Muxia immediately but had some lunch, rested, and went to the beach leaving the very last part of the Camino to the next day.
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  • Dag 49

    Cee to Finisterre - to the end of the wo

    10 juli 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    This was a short day in principle - only about 12km to Finisterre town but then another 3.5 km each way up to the lighthouse and point zero. We were close to the sea for most of the way and caught our first glimpse of the lighthouse and the official end of the journey through a gateway looming over the sea.
    As we arrived at the beginning of the long beach leading into the town I met James again. He has always seemed to appear at key moments of my Camino and this was no exception. He was leaving for a two day saunter to Muxia with a new camino friend - Dirk (who had walked the Norte). These Camino connections are quite extraordinary.
    We dumped our bags, very gratefully at our accommodation and had a cold drink in town, before continuing up to the lighthouse. Quite a hot and long uphill trudge but all worth it for the exhilarating feeling of reaching the end. Actually, to me mixed with sadness as I didn’t want to finish. I’m pleased and grateful for having been able to manage this journey but so very sad that I am no longer a pilgrim, with all my stuff on my back and in a new place every night.
    We spent a while at the lighthouse, drank a beer, took photos, and then it was time to walk back down into the village.
    Just before reaching the main part of a Finisterre there was a beautiful beach so we spent s bit of time there swimming before heading back to our room.
    This was a cabana right on the other side of town - perfect for setting off to wards Muxia in the morning but a bit out of the way for getting in and out of town. It was beautifully equipped and even had a hot tub (indoor) but I wasn’t really feeling up to doing anything other than eating and going to bed as the sore throat I’d had for a few days had now definitely developed into a very tiresome cold. So the lovely accommodation was a bit wasted on me as I just slept - but the bed was very comfortable which helped a bit.
    Before expiring for the night we found a great little restaurant in the town which specialises in local cuisine/produce but also has a number of vegetarian/vegan options. Also very good local wine with my new favourite godello grape. I have to say we only found this place as a result of completely failing to find the place where I could get my Finisterre certificate which had closed by the time we eventually located it. I might be able to apply by post but assuming that doesn’t work then it’s something to look forward to another time.
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  • Dag 48

    Santa Marina to Cee - new resolutions

    9 juli 2023, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    We left Santa Marina just after dawn this morning - a beautiful sunrise and not raining.
    The air was cool but perfect for walking in a t shirt.
    Early landscapes were misty and very quiet. Having not walked a ‘Brierley’ stage yesterday we have been pretty much alone - only one other walking pilgrim so far.
    However, despite all the loveliness I’m feeling very sad. The agriculture here is basically a mono culture of maize - I’m guessing to feed the cows, who are horribly confined in dark smelly barns. Unlike the countryside before Santiago where the cows were grazing in the open, here there are no fields with cattle - only endless fields of sweetcorn interspersed with huge barns full of dirty looking cows. I will have to be vegan again I think - no option when I have things like that imprinted on my memory!
    Anyway things improved after walking through Obreiroa and Hospital. We were into wild moorland with not a sweetcorn plant to be seen. Just heather and pines and huge rocks - the latter useful for sitting on to eat our lunch. Lunch was two days old Tetilla and bread, crisps, bananas and Coca Cola. I was so hungry and still had about 15km to go.
    It was a long day - 33km in all - but lovely second half. Very quiet. There were two tiny chapels (Capela das Neves and Capela De San Pedro Mártir) with healing waters where we took a break briefly (I threw some on my head!!) but as we were still quite a long way from Cee at 3pm we really had to keep moving.
    The final downhill into Cee was steep but the view of the sea made it exciting. My feet were beginning to complain a bit by this time and by the time we reached the hotel I was ready to drop. The room was comfortable and after a shower and a short rest we went out to explore the town, have a drink and find something to eat.
    Most places were closed as it was Sunday but we found a bar for a glass of wine and then a great restaurant with gourmet level veggie food (thanks again to Happy Cow) so I was happy.
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  • Dag 47

    Negreira to Santa Marina

    8 juli 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Negreira was in major celebration mode last night - there were fireworks fairly early but then the music went on ALL NIGHT! Luckily we were far enough away from the centre on town not to be disturbed really, but I woke up periodically and it was still going at 5.15am - the last time I woke before I had to get up.
    It had actually stopped by 6.30 when my alarm went off. I really admire their stamina - I guess that why everything was closed yesterday and we had to join the ranks of the sad pilgrims looking for food!
    Anyway we started our walk today with an alternative Brierley route along a stunning waiver with cascades every few metres. Found a coffee stop after about 10km when it had been raining for about 30 minutes. I got the first use of my new poncho (I only used the other one once before somehow losing it somewhere around Santiago). This one seems good and is very easy to get on over the rucksack and was a godsend today as it was showery and I really needed it.
    The landscape varied from forests to open fields of maize and cereals as well as grazing pastures for cattle. Lots of birdsong, but not up to the meseta.
    Our Albergue had given us a sort of packed lunch in lieu of breakfast, which was perfect, so we finally stopped to eat that on the path not far from our new Albergue in Santa Marina. At which point the heavens opened again and it was back on with the poncho.
    Now we are in the Albergue. Clean and basic but looks like the food should be fine and available so hopefully I won’t get as hungry as I did last night when we had to wait until after 8!to get anything to eat.
    Food also basic (cheese bocadillo and chips and salad as veggies) but good. Chilled evening - pulled myself out of the relegation zone on Duolingo! And an early night. But I have a sore throat which is a bit worrying with a 32km day in prospect. Have taken paracetamol!
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