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Camino Santiago de Compostella

Over 3 years in planning, delayed 1 year by COVID I am humbly embarking on a 500 miles Spiritual and Religious Pilgrimage walking the Camino Frances route Read more
  • Castillo de Saracen

    June 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 61 °F

    Sickness will surely take your mind where mind can't usually go....
    For all my complaining and moaning about horrible mountain trails I did a very steep incline for about one kilometer to go and see the ruins of a saracen castle from the IX century.

    Sarracenicum) due to its strategic location has been a fundamental piece for the control of Galicia.
    The current castle seems to be from the 9th century. Previously, the castle that existed must have been razed in the year 714 by Muza.
    The reconstruction of the current Castle should not have started until after the expulsion of the Muslims from Galicia and León, which would place its construction at the end of the 9th century.
    Certain facts suggest that Sarracín was built during the Reign of Ordoño I (850), by Count Gatón as founder of Sarracín, giving it the name of his son Sarracino Gatónez or it was built by Sarracino himself, which would place its construction in the range 852-885
    Count Gatón seems to be a native of the Triacastela environment and married a sister of Ordoño called Dª Nuña, being Ordoño's right-hand man for Galicia and his brother-in-law, Count Rodrigo exercised the same functions in Castile.
    Count Gatón was in charge of the campaigns of 852 in favor of the Mozarabs of Toledo and that of 863, in defense of the Castilian Alavés territory, which ended in disaster and defeat in the Pancoro gorge.
    Later the Count Gatón, was the alderman and in charge of repopulating the Bierzo and later the area of ​​Astorga.
    The son of Count Gaton, Sarracino Gatónez, Lord of Sarracín, in 885 led a rebellion against Alfonso III, together with Hermenegildo Pérez, son of Count Pedro Theón. The death of the Count of Castile, Diego Rodríguez, allowed Alfonso III to carry out a maneuver to stop any desire for independence or transfer of more power, than he was willing to give, to those sons of the Counts, who were once the men trusted by the Kings (Ordoño, Alfonso III).
    Alfonso III, divided the kingdom between his sons:

    Garcia: Kingdom of Leon and Castile

    Ordoño: Galicia

    Fruela: Asturias

    Situation

    The Castle is located in Vega de Valcarce, in front of the Autares Castle. There are doubts in some authors and this Castle has been called Castro Veiga and they place Santa María de Autares between Trabadelo and Portela.

    Sarracin, Autares, Valcarce river, Portazgo and Cueva de la Mora



    Valcarce

    D. García Rodríguez de Valcarce. He was Adelantado Mayor of the kingdom of Galicia, Lord of the Castles of Sarracin and Doncos, Corullón, Montefurado, Corgo, Molinaseca... he died in the 14th century.

    Mr. Fernando Rodríguez de Valcarce. Brother of D. Garcia, he was private of Alfonso IX, butler and chancellor of Queen Dª. Maria, Grand Prior of Malta. He bravely defended the island of Rhodes from the attacks of the Turks. It lies in the Quiroga chapel of Valladolid

    And it looks like the Saracens have elected a new Pope.
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  • Rain rain go away...

    June 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    So you can clearly see that this was very easy day. 16km with no really noticeable changes

    It is raining and TSing heavy now... hopefully it will be done by morning ...

    Will be crossing into Galicia tomorrow and my understanding is that it rains a lot thereRead more

  • The earliest departure ever

    June 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Got out shortly after 6 in the morning in order to attack the big hill that is coming up and give myself plenty of time to do that
    temperatures are still supposed to get hotter in the day with the possibility of thunderstorms developing after 2:00pm

    Obviously got treated to a sign of a full moon and unfortunately missed the pink moon the previous night
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  • B

    June 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Move through couple of small villages relatively fast trying to gain as much time and distance as possible while the morning is still cool and fresh of course have to fight the same treacherous ground as in previous situations climbing up that hill
    Philip on the trail
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  • La Faba

    June 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Our first break of the day is in La Faba
    we climbed approximately 2/3 of the distance needed
    still a long way to go and quite steep, although obviously the Final Destination is now quite shorter

    Camino kitty

    Desayuno numero uno

    believe in yourself and everything is possible

    The popular albergue in La Faba that unfortunately caught on fire last year

    The 7th pilgrim
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  • La Laguna

    June 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Took another break at La Laguna; now only 2 km away from O Cebreiro and the summit

    Most of the people in this two shots are Americans on Camino

    That lady in green shirt and the lady in blue shirt are mother-daughter team riding bicycles
    they are from Montana and the daughter actually works for Yellowstone National Park

    The views are still very good
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  • D

    June 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Another beautiful view that I still feel the pictures do no justice

    another Monument/Memorial to the failed equipment...so close....

  • Welcome. to Galicia

    June 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    I guess one can bittersweetly label this The Beginning of an End
    Galicia is the last region to cross and the region of my destination- Santiago de Compostela

    ...it has been UNBELIEVABLE 3 weeks even with all my misfortunes!!!!

    If you look closely you will immediately notice the difference in the trail... it's almost like driving from Philadelphia and crossing into Bucks or Montgomery County
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  • O Cebreiro

    June 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    We made it to the top and to O Cebreiro...and the first thing that greeted us was a slew of souvenir shops and busloads of tourists 😁

    O cebreiro is steeped in Celtic culture and there is a legend (OF COURSE!) about the Santuario de Santa Maria Real do Cebreiro church

    check out https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/re…
    https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g10…

    and https://www.mundiplus.com/en/blog/o-cebreiro for cool history and lore info

    Desayuno numero duo- a HUMONGOUS Jamon con queso bocadillo with so many pilgrims gathering around

    For most it's the end of the stage for today but we push another 3km downslop
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  • Albergue

    June 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Peter,Philip and I made it here in a pretty good time were able to get our beds and relax

    Nice albergue but it is literally the second building in a whole place
    we thought it was a truck stop but it would be too good of a comparison because there is absolutely nothing else here...Read more

  • Dinner

    June 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Ok laugh all you want....
    So this Linares where we are is a SERIOUS hole in the wall
    There is no restaurant here...but we can still drink beer...
    And there is a grocery store...so...got what we can
    And there you have it
    The finest food that Spain can offer 😋
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  • The Day Thou Gavest Lord Hath Ended

    June 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    We started in Vega de Valcarce and climbed to El (O) Cebreiro. Sometimes it was a bit rough going but we perceivered..
    Overall it was steeper (or at least IMHO) than ascent going to Zubiri on Day 3but the trail wasn't nearly as bad... so ALLES GUT

    Temps reached 105 today but we were long at albergue by then, clocking at 21km.
    Although not on the map Linares is more or less in that dip between O and S in "hospital"

    it just started to thunderstorm and we hope for the repeat of the day passed: rain through the night, cool everything down, nice morning to start the day... because (surPRISE, surPRISE!!!)
    tomorrow we have to descend all we assented today...and perhaps even some more...

    Thankfully this shall be the last high Ridge we deal with, any elevation changes after are more like small rolling hills...

    Climb every mountain (incl. Mount Niitaka)
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  • Padornelo

    June 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Desayuno numero uno

    Hector is from Ponferrada. The Way passes right in front of his house and he watched Pilgrims pass by every day of his life
    So couple of days ago he just threw his backpack on... and walked out the door 🙃

    And this little puppy met me on top of the hill (yes apparently I still have to go up a little more before really started to descend) and decided to take my walking pole for a playstick... but by this time he was done with my poles and tried to steal the lady's socks

    Speaking of - ONLY on Camino does a bunch of people walk into a bar/Cafe and proceeds to take their smelly socks off 😆
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  • Fonfria

    June 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Okay I've seen couples with babies, I've seen people with horses and horses carriages, I've seen people with dogs and just when I thought I have seen it all....
    Gulio is from Italy an he started in Leon 😲
    He claims that it hurts for him to walk on his 2 feet but he is perfectly fine on stilts...
    Yes he did work in the circus
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  • Biduedo

    June 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Capella de San Pedro

    Desayuno numero duo
    Awesome Salamanca a tun and
    Actually had a darn good tasting homemade Torta de Queso

    Marie from Germany and I are goofing around with pig sculpture

    L -R: a gentleman from Germany whose name unfortunately escapes me
    Lisl from Netherlands, Ducho from Italy, Chico's Dad also from Germany

    And then I was treated to a cow crossing The Way
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