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Te Araroa - New Zealand

Am 16. Novämber gohts los, uf mis abentür! Dr Te Araroa isch e langstreckewanderig wo neuseeland vom nördlichste zum südlichste punkt über 3000km durchquert. Ich wird i dene 3 mönet ca. 1500 km uf däm wäg wandere und freu mi, dass dir do drbi sit! Weiterlesen
  • Ufm wäg a River Safety Kurs

    5. Dezember 2025 in Neuseeland ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Nach de paar täg idr bay of islands, hani mi ufe wäg gmacht a River Safety kurs. Dä het idr Karangahake Gorge stattgfunde, idr nöchi vo Paeroa - öpe 2h fahrt südlich vo Auckland. Will mi vom kurs niemer het chöne mit abe nä, het mir dr Seán lieberwis abote mi abe zfahre - willer sowieso i die richtig het welle.

    Das het eus nomol bitzli zit gä zum d gegend rund um d Firth of Thames und d Coromandel Halbinsle go uskundschafte ufem wäg. Mir hei e spaziergang zu dr cathedral cove gmacht und in Thames glernt, dass dr Captain Cook die stadt so gnennt het will dr fluss ihn ad Thames in ängland erinneret het.

    Denn het dr Seán mi in Paeroa abglade. Das isch übrigens d heimat vom neuseeländische getränk Lemon&Paeroa - es het au e riisigi statue vonere L&P fläsche.

    Idr Karangahake schlucht het denn dr River Safety kurs stattgfunde. D schlucht hetmi bitz a zältplatz am Doubs erinneret. Wäge däm hetsmer denn au bitz weniger angst gmacht zum mitem ganze gepäck drin go bade. Am morge heimer e theorie teil gha zum lerne was d risike vo flussdurchquerige si und öb, wenn und wie me fluss durchquert und wieme verhinderet dasme durch das erfriert. Am nomitag simer denn mitem gepäck i fluss und hei dr fluss uf die verschidene arte durchquert und hei eus bitz lo abetriibe zum lerne wieme widr usechäm wenn me s glichgwicht verliert.

    Die wichtigste sache woni glernt ha:
    - me mues e fluss nid durchquere. Wenn sichs nid sicher afühlt, denn besser warte, e andere ort finde oder umkehre - au wenn s ziil vo dr etappe grad uf dr andere site isch
    - dr rucksack schwümmt und isch bitz wie e wickelfisch - i mues eifach no e paar drybags chaufe, d sache wärde nass
    - die neuseeländische wanderwäg hei so vill flussdurchquerige wills no es jungs wanderland isch im vrglich zu europa
    - dr grund werum lüt vertrinke, isch will si usrütsche und is wasser gheie
    - wenn me irgendwenn ine wasserfall grotet, söllme rückwärts mitem chopf/rucksack vora go - dasme nid d bei bricht... hoffentlich passiert das nie!!
    - me söll nie über stei gumpe zum e fluss durchquere. Au wenn denn d schue die nöchste täg nass si.
    - die 4 froge wome sich mues stelle: 1. Muesme dr fluss durchquere? 2. Ischs sicher zumene durchquere? 3. Wo isch e guete ort zum durchquere? 4. Uf weli art durchquere (elei mit de wanderstöck oder als gruppe mit inenand ihäncke)
    - die verschidene strömige wo hindernis im wasser mache und wases bedütet zum durelaufe
    - usefinde was e guete ort isch zum durchquere - me cha stäcke und stei schiesse zum d gschwindigkeit und d tiefi vomene fluss z erkenne

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    After spending a few days in the Bay of Islands, I headed off to a River Safety course. It took place in the Karangahake Gorge, near Paeroa — about a two-hour drive south of Auckland. Since no one from the course was able to pick me up, Seán kindly offered to drive me down, as he was planning to go in that direction anyway.

    That gave us a bit of extra time to explore the area around the Firth of Thames and the Coromandel Peninsula along the way. We did a short walk to Cathedral Cove, and in the town of Thames we learned that Captain Cook named it because the river reminded him of the Thames back in England.

    Seán dropped me off in Paeroa. It’s actually the home of the New Zealand drink Lemon & Paeroa — and there’s a massive statue of an L&P bottle in town.

    The River Safety course took place in the Karangahake Gorge. The gorge reminded me a bit of the campground at the Doubs, which made the idea of getting into the water with all my gear slightly less intimidating. In the morning, we had a theory session covering the risks of river crossings, when and if you should cross, how to do it safely, and how to avoid hypothermia. In the afternoon, we went into the river with our full packs and practiced crossing it in different ways. We also let ourselves get carried a short distance downstream to learn how to regain our balance and get back to safety if we lose our footing.

    The main things I learned:

    You don’t have to cross a river. If it doesn’t feel safe, wait, find another spot, or turn back — even if the end of the section is right on the other side.

    Your backpack floats and behaves a bit like a drybag — I just need to buy a few more drybags inside it, because things will get wet.

    New Zealand trails have so many river crossings simply because it’s still a young tramping nation compared to Europe.

    The main reason people drown is because they slip and fall into the water.

    If you ever get pushed toward a waterfall, go backwards with your head/backpack first — to avoid breaking your legs… hopefully that never happens!

    Never jump from rock to rock to cross a river. Even if it means your shoes will be wet for the next few days.

    The four questions you should always ask yourself:

    Do I need to cross the river?

    Is it safe to cross here?

    Where is the safest spot to cross?

    How should I cross — alone with trekking poles or as a group linked together?

    Different types of currents created by obstacles in the water and what they mean when you’re moving through them.

    How to identify a good crossing point — you can throw sticks or stones into the water to get a sense of the river’s speed and depth.
    Weiterlesen

  • Kerikeri & Bay of Islands

    1. Dezember 2025 in Neuseeland ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Die letschte täg rund um Kerikeri und Paihia hani mitem Seàn und dr Nele verbrocht, miteme mix vo wandere, entspanne und bitz touristischi sache mache.

    Ich ha:
    - die eifacheri, touristischeri variante gmacht vom Puketi Forest (e 2.5 km spaziergang im wald)
    - ich bi go s ältischte steihuus in Neuseeland aluege. Dört hei die erste verhandlige zwüsche de europäer und de Maoris stattgfunde.
    - mir hei zdritt zäme gkocht und gueti gspröch gfüert
    - ich ha e TA etappe uf dr halbinsle bi Russel gmacht
    - mir isch vo mim autostopp fahrer dr ort Russel mit sim historische chärn, de grosse villene und de schöne stränd zeigt worde
    - ich bi im meer go bade
    - ich ha in härzige cafis flat whites trunke

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    I spent the last few days around Kerikeri and Paihia with Seàn and Nele - a mix of hiking, relaxing and doing some touristy things.

    - I did the easier, more tourist-friendly version of the Puketi Forest track (a 2.5km walk through the woods)
    - I visited to oldest stone house in New Zealand, where the first negotiations between the Europeans and the Maoris took place
    - we cooked together and had great conversations
    - I did part of the TA section on the Russell peninsula
    - I got shown around Russell by one of my hitchhike drivers - he pointed out the historic town center, the grand villas and the beautiful beaches
    - went for a swim in the ocean
    - enjoyed Flat Whites in cute little cafes
    Weiterlesen

  • Section 2: Raetea Forest / the mud fight

    30. November 2025 in Neuseeland ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Mir (d nele und ich) hei gwüsst und si vorgwarnt gsi, dass es e harte, lange tag wird. Aber wie hart hämer eus nid chöne vorstelle! 18km (es si denn schlussändlich no e paar mehr gsi), 1000 höhemeter und sehr vill schlamm.

    Es het alles guet agfange bi sunneschiin dr bärg duruf. Die erste 3km si zügig gange. Und denn simer i wald cho und dr wäg isch steiler und technischer worde - mit vill stei und wurzle. Nach öpe em 4km hets denn agfange mitem schlamm. Am afang hämer no versuecht, so guet wies goht trocheni füess zphalte. Das het aber gmacht dasmer öpe e stund gha hei pro km. Zmittag gässe hämer ufem gipfel, nach öpe dr hälfti und eme sehr steile, schlammige ufstiig. Es het sich fescht nach chlättere agfühlt. Abem mittag hets denn au afange rägne und winde. Was dr abstiig no schwiriger gmacht het. Gege obe het denn aber s wätter ufdo und mir hei bitz ussicht gseh - hügel mit wunderschönem dichtem wald. Churz vorem dunkel wärde simer denn zum glück usem wald cho und hei denn mit dr stirnlampe no dr räscht vom abstiig überne wiise mit chüe gmacht (es het sehr wieni jura wiise usgseh). Nach 14 stund wandere simer denn froh bim zältplatz acho und si sehr dankbar gsi dasmer dä tag nid elei gmacht hei. Am nöchste morge het eus denn lieberwiis dr Seàn (irländer vo mim Auckland-Tag) bim camp abgholt und isch mit eus uf kerikeri gfahre willmer entschide hei die nöchsti etappe z überspringe.

    Es isch e wunderschöne wald gsi und e super erfahrig und i bi stolz dasi das gschafft ha. Aber es isch au eine vo der hertische täg gsi vo mim läbe. Luegemer mol was dr Te Araroa no so für abschnitt bringt!

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    We (Nele and I) knew and had been warned that it would be a tough, long day. But we couldn’t have imagined how tough it would actually be! Eighteen kilometers (it was actually a few more at the end), 1,000 meters of elevation gain, and a whole lot of mud.

    It started off well, with sunshine as we climbed up the mountain. The first 3 km went by quickly. Then we entered the forest and the trail became steeper and more technical — lots of rocks and roots. After around 4 km, the mud began. At first, we still tried to keep our feet as dry as possible, but that meant we were moving at about one hour per kilometer. We had lunch at the summit, halfway through the hike, after a very steep and muddy ascent that felt more like climbing than hiking.

    After midday, it started raining and the wind picked up, which made the descent even more challenging. Later on, the weather cleared a bit and we got some views — rolling hills covered in beautiful, dense forest. Just before it got dark, we finally made it out of the woods and finished the rest of the descent across a meadow with cows (it looked a lot like the Swiss Jura). After 14 hours of hiking, we reached the campsite absolutely exhausted but incredibly grateful that we hadn’t attempted this day alone. The next morning, thankfully, Seán (the Irish guy from my Auckland day) picked us up from camp and drove us to Kerikeri, since we decided to skip the next section.

    The forest was beautiful, and it was an amazing experience — I’m proud I managed to get through it. But it was also one of the hardest days of my life. Let’s see what other surprises the Te Araroa has in store!
    Weiterlesen

  • Pausentag & Resupply

    29. November 2025 in Neuseeland ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Nachem Ninety Mile beach hani mi gfreut zum mol e tag pause mache. Vill vo de andere wanderer si denn scho nach kaitaia und hei denn dört im hostel übernachtet. Aber ich ha mehr lust ha uf mis zält-einzelzimmer und ha in Ahipara e wunderschöne zältplatz gfunde. A mim pausetag hani vill gässe und e paar telefon gmacht. Es het zwar immer widr grägnet und isch schwül gsi, has aber chlich sehr chöne gniesse.

    Am nöchste tag bim zält zämeruume hani denn d nele kenneglernt. Si isch au e TA wandererin vo dütschland. Mir hei eus denn grad zämedo zum autostöpple, resupply vom ässe in kaitaia und denn nomol autostöpple zumene Krishna Sanctuary wo grad am start gsi isch für die nöchsti etappe. Im Krishna Sanctuary hämer imene bächli baded und sehr feins indischs ässe gässe. E wunderschöne ort mit pflanze, blueme und früsche frücht - zmittst ide hügel.

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    After Ninety Mile Beach, I was really looking forward to taking a rest day. Many of the other hikers had already made their way to Kaitaia and spent the night in a hostel there. But I preferred the idea of having my “tent-as-a-single-room,” so I found a beautiful campsite in Ahipara. On my rest day, I ate a lot and made a few phone calls. Even though it kept raining on and off and the air was humid, I still managed to enjoy it quite a bit.

    The next morning, while packing up my tent, I met Nele. She’s also a TA hiker from Germany. We immediately decided to team up to hitchhike, restock food in Kaitaia, and then hitch again to the Krishna Sanctuary, which was right at the start of the next section. At the Krishna Sanctuary, we cooled off in a small creek and enjoyed some delicious Indian food. It’s a beautiful place full of plants, flowers, and fresh fruit — tucked away in the middle of the hills.
    Weiterlesen

  • Section 1: Cape Reinga - Ahipara, 100 km

    23. November 2025 in Neuseeland ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Die ersti section vom te araroa het ganz im norde, am cape reinge agfange. Am morge früeh ischs in Auckland mitem bus losgange, bis uf Kaitaia. Und denn zäme mit 3 andere wanderer miteme shuttle bis as cape. Die erste 12km (mit de einzige 200 höhemeter vo dere section) hämer denn no am gliche obe gmacht. I bi denn öpe am 8i am twilight beach camp acho.

    Die nöchste 4 täg (ca. 90km) ischs denn alles im ninety mile beach entlang gange. Es isch wunderschön gsi. Aber zwei 30km täg idr pralle sunne und mit nid vill abwächslig heis in sich gha. I ha mi unterhalte mit hörbüecher und podcasts lose, sprochnochrichte mache, i mine gedanke versinke und miteme holländische päärli gegesitig strand kunst mache (je nach däm wär vorus gange isch). Usserdäm hani d möwe beobachtet wie si muschle hei lo gheie vo so 5m höchi zumse ufbräche und vo zit zu zit ischme dur chlini bächli wo is meer gflosse si.

    Die erste täg hani mi bitz lo stresse vo de andere wanderer wo super früeh und schnäll gluffe si. Aber das hani zum glück chöne loslo und i ha die zit mit mir und dr wildnis chöne gniesse.

    Hörbüecher:
    - "A Perfectionist's Guide to Losing Control", Kathrin Morgan Schafler (Danke Vera füre Tipp!)
    - Outlander Buech-Serie: "Drums of Autumn", Diana Cabaldon

    Musig:
    - "Australian Indie Mix" uf Spotify

    Podcasts:
    - "Alles klar Amerika?"
    - "Beziehungskosmos"

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    The first section of the Te Araroa started right up north at Cape Reinga. Early in the morning, I took a bus from Auckland to Kaitaia, and from there a shuttle to the cape together with three other hikers. We covered the first 12 km that same evening (including the only 200 meters of elevation gain in this whole section). I reached the Twilight Beach Camp at around 8 p.m.

    The following four days were spent entirely walking along Ninety Mile Beach. It was stunningly beautiful. But two 30 km days in the blazing sun and with not much variety definitely had their challenges. I kept myself entertained by listening to audiobooks and podcasts, sending voice messages, drifting into my thoughts, and creating beach art together with a Dutch couple (depending on who was ahead). I also watched the seagulls drop shells from about five meters up to crack them open, and from time to time crossed small streams flowing into the ocean.

    On the first days I let myself get a bit stressed by the other hikers who started very early and walked super fast. But thankfully I managed to let go of that pressure and simply enjoy the time with myself and the wilderness.
    Weiterlesen

  • Getting ready - Prep day

    22. November 2025 in Neuseeland ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    I bi guet in Neuseeland acho. Hüt hani dr tag z Auckland bruucht zum alles barat zmache für dr start vo dr wanderig. I bi go mi trail pack abhole, go ässe und die letschte equipment sache ichaufe und denn versueche s rucksack gwicht nomol bitz abezbecho. Die etste paar täg hani folgendes zum ässe: haferflöckli mit tröchnete beeri und protein pulver jewils zum zmorge, tortilla mit ches, salami und thon zum zmittag und e gfrier tröchneti molzit zum znacht - und no bitz snacks für zwüdchedure.

    Trotz villne organisatorische sache, hani aber glich no bitz chöne d stadt go erkunde. Und i ha no bitz zit verbrocht miteme irländer woni gester im flughafe bus kenneglernt ha.

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    I arrived safely in New Zealand. Today I spent the day in Auckland getting everything ready for the start of the hike. I picked up my trail pack, grabbed some food, bought the last bits of gear I still needed, and tried to shave a little more weight off my backpack. For the first few days, I’ll be eating the following: oats with dried berries and protein powder for breakfast, tortillas with cheese, salami, and tuna for lunch, and a freeze-dried meal for dinner — plus a few snacks in between.

    Despite all the organizing, I still managed to explore the city a little. And I also spent some time with an Irish guy I met yesterday on the airport bus.
    Weiterlesen

  • Back in Sydney

    20. November 2025 in Australien ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Die letschte stund in Sydney hani mit dr Kerstin verbrocht. Si isch mini änglisch lehrerin gsi woni letscht mol im Sydney gsi bi. I bi no spontan mit ihre anes konzärt vomene chor, ufem campus vo dr University of New South Wales.

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    I spent my last hour in Sydney with Kerstin. She was my English teacher the last time I was in Sydney. On a whim, I joined her for a choir concert on the campus of the University of New South Wales.
    Weiterlesen

  • South coast with the Barilla family

    19. November 2025 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Die letschte zwei täg hani mit dr familie Barilla im süde vo Sydney vrbrocht. Si hei tolli täg für mi organisiert und hei sogar e tag freigno für mi. D Jolene het mi am Bahnhof in Helensburgh abgholt und denn simer ad küste go zmittag ässe und am Bulli beach go bade und sünnele. Zobe simer denn mit dr erwiterete familie go znacht ässe.

    Dr zweiti tag hani mit dr Leila vrbrocht. Mir si in Cronulla go spaziere und denn go brunche. Si fangt im februar afo studiere, gniesst im momänt d freiheit und mir hei zäme vo allne ort träumt wome no so chönt go reise.

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    The last two days I spent with the Barilla family in the south of Sydney. They organised some great days for me and even took a day off just for me. Jolene picked me up at Helensburgh station, and then we went to the coast for lunch and later swimming and sunbathing at Bulli Beach. In the evening we had dinner with the extended family.

    I spent the second day with Leila. We went for a walk in Cronulla and then out for brunch. She’s starting her studies in February, is enjoying her freedom at the moment, and together we dreamed about all the places we could still travel to.
    Weiterlesen

  • Start of the adventure

    18. November 2025 in Australien ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Nachere sehr schöne verabschidig am wucheänd, ischs jetz sowit: s abentür startet!
    Dr leon het mi am sunntig zobe miteme mobility uf züri gfahre. Am halb 10i isch denn dr flug pünktlich richtig abu dhabi abgfloge. Nacheme flug wo nüm het welle ufhöre bini denn guet am zischtig am morge früeh in Sydney acho. Mit dr aktivierig vo dr esim hani mi denn schnäll chöne orientiere.
    Bevori im hotel in newtown ha chöne ichecke, hani mir es zmorge gönnt und bi bitz go spaziere im sydney park. Am nomitag bini denn erfolgriich
    e powerbank für d wanderig go sueche und bi bitz dur d stadt gschländeret.

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    After a really lovely farewell over the weekend, the time has come: the adventure begins!
    On Sunday evening, Leon drove me to Zurich in a Mobility car, and at 9:30 the plane took off right on time toward Abu Dhabi. After a flight that felt like it would never end, I finally landed in Sydney early Tuesday morning. Once I activated my eSIM, I could get my bearings pretty quickly.

    Before I could check into my hotel in Newtown, I treated myself to some breakfast and took a little stroll through Sydney Park. In the afternoon, I went on a mission to find a power bank for the upcoming hikes—and managed to succeed—and then just wandered around the city for a while.
    Weiterlesen

    Beginn der Reise
    16. November 2025