I've Been to Bali, too!

I'm 65. An Aussie. A man from Cronulla. And I haven't been to Bali! What have I been doing?
Well, I'm setting out to correct that, guided by my ex-surfie chick sister Carol who's been coming to BaliLes mer
Welcome to Bali, Welcome to Paradise!

Not!
Kuta is the iconic Bali destination but it's turned into a complete disaster.
Straight off the plane Carol took me to Kuta and Legian beaches. Bumper to Bumper traffic through narrow lanes linedLes mer
Bali Bombing

While I hate the drunken scene in Kuta, the Bali Bombings were an abomination.
The Islamic Fundamentalists wanted to destroy Western Decadence but they weren't from Bali and also had no respect forLes mer
Flat out in Bali

In Kuta and Legian there's a massage parlour about every 10 metres willing to give you a "happy ending".
Carol took me past those to her traditional healer /masseur Wayan for a treatment.
Very strongLes mer
Nasi Goreng rules!

Indonesians love their food and I love Indonesian food . First meal in Indonesia was at a warrung (cafe) that Carol has been coming to for 15 years. Nasi Goreng and Beef Rendang, just $7.
EnakLes mer
1 Million just doesn't buy much any more

A million Rupiah!
Tell'em they're dreaming.
Oh!
it's only $100 Australian dollar (AUD) as 1 Australian dollar is worth 10,000 Indonesian Rupiah (IDR)
It's very confusing.
But prices here are muchLes mer
Temples of Bali

Most of Indonesia was Hindu at one stage. But then Islam spread through the archipelago and Bali was the only place to resist it. So it has a unique Hindu culture which the Balinese take veryLes mer
Escape to the Country

I've now seen the madness of Denpasar so Carol organises a car and driver to show me traditional Balinese life in the country.
This means lots of rice fields (and temples).
We went to Jatiluwih RiceLes mer
Is it a temple or an amusement park?

Ulun Danu Beratan is a very sacred temple on the shore of a beautiful volcanic crater lake and included UNESCO World Cultural Heritage listing for Bali's culture. It's so sacred, visitors can't evenLes mer
The quieter side of Denpasar

We're staying at the Swastika Guest House in Sanur on the eastern side of Denpasar.
Kuta and Legian are on the western side which has good waves. That's why they were originally popular with surfies.Les mer
Traditional family compound

This family has opened up their family home to visitors to see how a traditional family compound works. They still live there so we can see the real thing. Though it does seem strange to look throughLes mer
Batuan Temple, best temple so far

In India temples are adorned with friezes and statues and gold and murals and too much decoration. So far Balinese temples had little decoration so it was nice to see this Temple because it has a lotLes mer
Beware of ripoff guides.

Goa Gajal is a cave carved with the face of an elephant about 400 years ago. Inside there is shrine with 3 linga sculptures ie penis sculptures. Traditional in Indian Hindu culture but rare inLes mer
Love the natural Infinity Pool

Taman Petanu Eco Neighborhood is a sustainable housing development on the outskirts of Ubud.
Our friend Aaron and his coworker Darren designed the Permaculture Plan here so I wanted to see his work.Les mer
Feel the Serenity

Ubud is supposed to be the cultural centre of Bali. The place for yoga retreats and relaxation but they've killed the goose that laid the golden egg.
Ubud is far from serene and tranquil.
Ubud justLes mer
The Last Forest in Ubud

The Ubud Monkey Forest is really the last area of traditional forest left. So it's the last place monkeys can roam freely. There are some magnificent trees and you get a sense of what it was like inLes mer
Ceremony overrules everything!

Religion and ceremony is the most important thing for the Balinese.
The only time traffic is stopped is when there's a ceremonial procession. This one is going from a local shrine to the centralLes mer
Sick and tired of tourist ripoffs

I know we have more money than the Balinese. I know we should contribute to the upkeep of historic and spiritual sites. But it does seem we get put on a treadmill of having to visit the same sites andLes mer
The (almost) real Bali

We've been to the major tourist spots. Now a chance to slow down and see quieter areas with less tourists and more locals.
Amed is a small fishing village on the East coast which is attracting moreLes mer
In the shadow of the volcano

Amed is at the base of Mt Agung, an active volcano. It last erupted in 2019. So the soil is very rich and the sand is very black and locals are alert to any danger signs.
You can climb it overnight toLes mer
Some touristy things are worth doing

We were recommended getting a car to take us to 3 snorkeling sites for the morning. Then we were told we could do them by traditional fishing boat even though it was more expensive.
What a greatLes mer
The (almost) real Bali part 2

One of the perils of rural life in Bali are the blackouts. No aircon on hot humid days are disastrous for us bole (westerners). We open up the doors to try to catch the sea breeze or jump in the poolLes mer
Flying Solo

It's been great being guided by Carol but she has to go back to Brisbane. So I need to go solo until I meet up with Budi in Makassar.
We survived a week together. We probably haven't done that for 50Les mer
Chilling out in Amed

Even more time to chill now.
Walks on the beach in early morning and evening. Stay cool in the aircon during the day. Maybe walk to the shops for an isotonic drink or gelato. Watch the ships passingLes mer
Trying to overcome my prejudice

Back in Denpasar I stayed at Legian. I know I said it was horrendous but I thought I should try to overcome my prejudice and give it a proper chance.
And you know what? I still think it's horrible andLes mer