West and Central Africa

Yesterday was truly incredible. The journey from the crossroad near Mambele to Libongo spans a daunting 90 kilometers. I'd read a blog post mentioning that it took someone about three hours to reach Libongo, but that was during the dry season. My motorbike taxi driver informed me that there was no regular transportation to Libongo, so I decided to hire him for the journey. He glanced at me skeptically and asked, "Are you serious? The road is incredibly long and treacherous." Without any other options, I affirmed my resolve, and our journey commenced.

The road conditions were deplorable, owing to heavy rain the previous day. It felt as though we were navigating through a freshly plowed, rain-soaked garden. After just 50 meters, the mud was so thick that my driver had to dismount to clear it, leaving me to proceed on foot. Occasionally, the road improved slightly, allowing us to pick up some speed. It was by far the worst road I'd encountered in my four months in Africa, and I constantly hoped my driver wouldn't give up because reaching Libongo was crucial for continuing my journey to the Central African Republic and Congo.

I also held out hope that a 4x4 vehicle might pass by, offering me a chance to hitch a ride. However, the only vehicle I saw was a military one heading in the opposite direction. After two hours of painstakingly slow progress, our average speed was a meager 7 kilometers per hour. I calculated that we wouldn't reach Libongo until 4 or 5 PM, effectively putting my plans for the day on hold.

After covering 30 kilometers, we reached a checkpoint where the attendant informed me that hardly any vehicles traversed this route, perhaps just one or two in a week. Five kilometers farther, an unexpected sight greeted us - gorillas blocking the road. This was a fortunate encounter, especially since I had spent three days in a national park prior and hadn't seen any gorillas, despite expectations. The gorillas momentarily lifted my spirits. Throughout the journey, I also spotted traces of elephants and other wildlife, including small, unidentifiable animals, monkeys, birds, and antelopes. I encountered gorillas three times by the end of the day, a much richer experience than what the expensive park had offered.

I'd recommend hiring a mototaxi for this route during the dry season rather than visiting the park, especially since the park is situated on the right side of the road. Now, back to my journey. The road improved slightly after the checkpoint, but I noticed rain approaching. I hastily covered my backpack and donned my rain jacket, which I had bought in Yaounde. Unfortunately, the jacket proved ineffective as water seeped through, dampening my pocket, passport, and phone. I had to stow everything in my small backpack.

My hopes of finding a 4x4 ride had dwindled, and I simply aimed to reach Libongo. I felt sorry for my driver, who had to repeatedly dismount to clear mud, and whose front wheel's rain protection had broken. Yet, he remained steadfast in his mission to get me to Libongo, and I deeply respected his determination.

On this day, I walked approximately 20 kilometers while my driver tirelessly cleared mud. He would catch up to me on the bike for one or two kilometers, and this pattern repeated many times. As per Maps.me, I had only 15 kilometers left, but it was already 3 PM. Then, a miracle happened - a car appeared on the horizon. I couldn't believe my eyes, and the driver, a white Frenchman, seemed equally astonished. He couldn't fathom why I was out there, looking so dirty and drenched, and questioned my sanity.

He kindly offered to take me to his camp instead of continuing my journey to Libongo in such a state. I didn't hesitate for a second, loaded my belongings, paid my driver (giving him an extra 5000 CFA for the challenging circumstances), and hopped into the car. On the way to his camp, he explained that he was a professional hunter, catering to hunters from around the world who paid substantial sums, ranging from 25,000 to 50,000 euros for a two-week experience. Much of this money went towards conserving the area, and they refrained from hunting gorillas, leopards, and elephants. He assured me that there were more animals in his forest than in the neighboring Lobéké national park, which I believed based on my experiences.

Their primary targets were older male animals, and the meat went to local pygmy tribes. He had been in Cameroon for 24 years, and his project had significantly reduced poaching in the area by protecting it with numerous rangers. While hunting can be a contentious issue, I saw the potential for it to generate funds for wildlife and environmental protection while also providing livelihoods for local populations.

Finally, I arrived at the camp, which was more of a resort for affluent hunters. I had my own bungalow with a proper shower, toilet, a spacious bed, and, to my surprise, electricity and Wi-Fi. There was even a swimming pool, three meals a day, and all of it was complimentary. After 3 days, I hoped to continue my journey to the Central African Republic, although staying longer in this unique place was tempting.

West Africa had been an adventure, but Central Africa was an entirely different dimension altogetherRead more