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Cycling Scandinavia 2016

May - June 2016
A 28-day adventure by Owen Read more
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  • TravelerCycling Scandinavia 2016
    1
    Day 9

    Day 7b - At the Swedish Border

    May 18, 2016 in Finland ⋅ ⛅ 3 °C

    We arrived in rain-soaked Tornio - a border town to Sweden - and cycled to a 'campsite', which is so water-logged that we have had to rent another Cabin. I'm actually starting to miss sleeping on the ground for some reason.

    We're certainly in a bigger city (it even has traffic lights!) but the choice of food hasn't improved. After a long walk around town, we were forced to concede that (as trip advisor suggested) the best place to get a hot meal was, in fact, Ikea. So we crossed the border on foot to eat in their cafe before coming back to the cabin to finish the day with a sauna (free with the cabin rental, because it's Finland) and a beer.

    Unfortunately I managed to pick up some non-cycling injuries by slipping over in the sauna! So I'll cross into Sweden with some strapped toes and a dose of ibuprofen in my system.    Read more

  • TravelerCycling Scandinavia 2016
    Day 10

    Day 8 - Saved by public transport

    May 19, 2016 in Sweden ⋅ 🌙 4 °C

    Day 1 in Sweden got off to a rather shakey start,as we left town following our route only to find the only path was a dual carriageway with 110 km speed limits. Worse still, the rain that weather reports warned us about proved to be depressingly accurate. It wasn't long before we were cycling in heavy rain, along the side of a major highway, being frequently overtaken (and sprayed) by dual-carriage lorries.

    We kept our heads down and cycled in close formation, to protect ourselves from traffic, for most of our 30km journey to the first stop in Sangis. Arriving at the Swedish equivalent of a motorway service station, where we ordered a burger and spread our wet clothes across the tables.

    In minimal clothing (practically underwear), we sat eating, taking advantage of free coffee refills and trying to make plans for the rest of the ride. Fortunately the options was still available to catch a bus, so we opted to skip some motorway and once again try to get our bikes on a bus - this time to Lulea.

    It was a great relief to find that not only could we pack our bikes onto the local bus (from a bus stop), but the Swedish busses are extremely well kitted out. They are essentially Coach-Lorry hybrids, with plenty of room for bikes and comfortable seating and even room for male and female toilets on-board.

    2.5 hours later and we were cycling through Lulea, via scenic woodland trails, to a camp ground on the picturesque coastline. Sunny weather tomorrow should mean that we get back to proper riding, on something more satisfying than a highway.    Read more

  • TravelerCycling Scandinavia 2016
    Day 12

    Day 9 - Sweden looking up (and down...)

    May 21, 2016 in Sweden ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Leaving Lulea for Pitea and avoiding another day on the miserable E4 meant drastically detouring and forming our longest route yet (estimated at 86km).

    On the plus side, the weather was beautiful and we were going to pass a nature reserve, so it was more of a 'touring' day than most.

    Sweden looks a lot more attractive when you get off their motorways. We were quickly surrounded by lakes, forests and men with unnecessarily large moustaches tending their (well spaced) gardens. Lunch was in the nature reserve, which we had to ourselves, on a field under the sun.

    It was hard going though, with constant hill climbs and equally steep descents. Also at one point, we hit unsealed, gravel track that proved pretty incompatible with our bikes.

    Eventually we made it to Pitea, having done over 90km because of detours around the E4, and arrived at our campsite...wedged between two industrial factories. Who says camping can't be glamorous?    Read more

  • TravelerCycling Scandinavia 2016
    Day 13

    Day 10 - Big(ger) city frustrations

    May 22, 2016 in Sweden ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Waking up in Pitea, to the soothing sound of factory machinery, we didn't hang around long before heading to the bus station withheld aim of catching the earliest bus South to Umea, or even Sundsvall,

    Unfortunately, the morning busses weren't able to take bikes (for reasons that weren't exactly clear - "it's Saturday" the bus driver told us with a smile).

    So we were left in the derelict bus station withheld whole day to kill before the evening bus arrived, which could take us (and our bikes) as far as Umea.

    Luckily, the high street was a lot nicer and it wasn't a hardship to be killing time in the sunshine. We got lunch, had coffee, balanced our spending and did some writing.

    By evening we were ready again at the bus station, passing the time while waiting for the bus by watching the local drug dealer do his business across the street. The bus arrived in spite of all the signs suggesting it wouldn't, and we were on our way to Umea for 9:30pm.

    Since ourarrival was so late, we were pretty certain that the campsite we were heading to would be closed to new arrivals. Our plan was to camp anyway, and hopefully make cheeky use of their facilities. So we set off through an evening fog, along cycle routes that took us past a University and 30 minutes out of town.

    On arrival, it looked like we were out of luck, as all the facilities were controlled by ID cards (which we couldn't get as late arrivals). But, luckily, some other guests had left their cards lying around after leaving. So we were able to camp properly and not even pay for it! Can't complain, really...    Read more

  • TravelerCycling Scandinavia 2016
    2
    Day 13

    Day 11 - Sundsvall aaaand breakdown!

    May 22, 2016 in Sweden ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    So after our free camp, we set off early in the hope that we would be allowed on the earliest bus out of Umea to Sundsvall, the unofficial halfway point of our trip where we would finally set off on the bikes for some consistent days of riding again.

    There were no guarantees for the busses to accept our bikes, and when the bus pulled in we knew it was a company that officially refused to carry cycles. But, luckily for us, the coach was being driven by the nicest driver in Sweden. He insisted that, being his duty to serve customers, he should carry our bikes even though his employer refuses. So before long we were on the bus to Sundsvall, swapping stories with Magnus as he beamed and grinned and thanked us for being 'so polite' (while we thanked him right back, in that British way).

    The coach was a chance to catch up on sleep, take in the scenery and reflect on all the misery that we were missing by not cycling the E4 highway. We arrived at Sundsvall at midday, grabbed some coffee and lunch and we're feeling pretty good about ourselves.

    Unfortunately that wasn't to last, as we tried to set off for our cycle South for the evening and I realised that my rear wheel has been damaged by the less-friendly bus driver who dropped my bike (along with me) off the back of his bustwo days earlier. I won't elaborate, as it just makes me angry.

    So instead of leaving Sundsvall this evening, we are stuck in a nearby campsite so that I can head back in to town tomorrow and get my bike fixed. But, on the upside, our current campsite is a nice beach front type, overlooking the Gulf of Bothnia. So it has become a nice evening to sit out and enjoy some drinks, while watching Terns dive in the lapping water.    Read more

  • TravelerCycling Scandinavia 2016
    Day 15

    DAY 12 - Good people make for good trips

    May 24, 2016 in Sweden ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

    This morning marked a change of flow for us, as I had to leave slightly earlier and head back to Sundsvall for a bike repair. Meanwhile Simon would carry on the route with the hope that I could catch up.

    All started well, as the bike repair guy was great, a real passionate professional who made space for my bike amongst a constant flow of new on old customers on a busy Monday morning. Within an hour, my spokes were re-tensioned and I was back on the road (still with some clicks and squeaks to look at, but with the immediate problem solved).

    Pretty soon, a Top Gear-style cat and mouse chase developed as I raced to catch up with Simon and he pushed to keep one step ahead. Eventually we found each other at a service station, figuring it was best to meet after both struggling alone with our last rides on the E4 highway.

    After that followed a smooth ride together, via more scenic vista's and glistening lakes, to Bergso. The original plan - the best we had - was to push a bit further and wild camp outside a small village 10km further on. But heavy rains were expected overnight and neither of us were keen on a night in a field under this conditions. So we stopped into a pizzeria in Bergso, to charge our ailing phones, refresh and weigh up our options.

    After a beer there was a growing sense that Bergso was the place to stop, but we had no solution for sleeping. As luck would have it, the very kind,multi-lingual and chatty pizzeria owner introduced us to a fellow Brit and his family who live in the area. We got chatting and they very kindly offered us their back garden for camping, plus use of their house, for the night. Lucky us!

    We had another drink to celebrate before heading to the home of Mike and Sara to pitch tents in their garden. So we had somewhere safe to sleep and people looking out for us. But better still they invited us in for a drink, so we spent the evening sharing stories and bring made to feel like special guests. An end to the day that was immeasurably better than expected.    Read more

  • TravelerCycling Scandinavia 2016
    Day 16

    Day 13 - Garden to Guesthouse

    May 25, 2016 in Sweden ⋅ 🌧 7 °C

    After a good night's sleep in Mike and Sara's garden (in spite of the heavy overnight rain) they helped get us going with a coffee in their warm, dry kitchen before heading to work. We were treated to the sight of a woodpecker picking nuts from their bird feeder while we took in the caffeine.

    After that, we stuck around for a bit to wait for the rain to settle, then broke camp and set off in full waterproof gear, expecting the rain to hit us again on the ride.

    Pretty soon afterwards, I was stripping all those layers off, as it is now a lot warmer than it was in the North (double figures, even!). It didn't seem to matter anyway, as the day remained cloudy but mostly dry.

    Based on Mike's good advice, we took a slightly longer route that guaranteed sealed roads while also avoiding a return to the E4. It was hilly, but proved a nice ride between small towns with shops and services. Along the way we stopped to watch (and hear) a pair of migrating cranes as the milled around a front garden before flying off into the distance.

    Eventually we came out onto the 84, which was our road to Bergso. Unfortunately it was a lot more similar to the E4 than we had hoped and included multiple steep climbs. So the last part of our ride was back alongside lorries and fast-moving cars, cycling nose to tail for safety. Still, we were rolling into Bergso before too long.

    Bergso is a town with plenty of campsites, and with a thunderstorm predicted overnight, we had planned to hire a cabin for shelter and a chance to hand-wash clothes. Unfortunately, unlike all our previous stops, none of the campsites in Bergso are open until June. So, faced with the possibility of wild camping and waking up wet with no dry/clean clothes, we opted to stay in a B&B for the night. So it's an evening of clothes washing, hot showers and comfort before a proper breakfast; all to set us up for more wet weather cycling tomorrow.    Read more

  • TravelerCycling Scandinavia 2016
    Day 17

    Day 14 - Riders on the Storm

    May 26, 2016 in Sweden ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

    As we were in a B&B and there was a window of relatively dry weather in the afternoon, we opted to take our time enjoying the spoils. It gave time for a proper breakfast, allowed for hand-washed clothes to dry and gave us chance to be cheeky in asking for all other clothing to be washed and dried by the owners.

    They were happy to oblige, but the downside was it was no priority for them, so by the time we got the clothes back and everything onto the bike it was 2pm. We now had only 2 hours before heavy rain was scheduled, on a bike trip that would take at least 5.

    Those first 2 hours were a lot of fun. The rain was falling, and building, but we had a fairly relaxed climb followed by a nice, long downhill ride on a winding Road that overlooked a beautiful large lake.

    Not long after, the rain really got going and we spent the next couple of hours getting progressively soaked - a particular problem for Simon, whose water-resistant trouser completely soaked through.

    We made it to a grill house in the nearest town and bought a burger to fill up and justify taking over their business with drip-drying clothes. Happily, like in most places in Sweden, coffee was free, so we were able to change, dry off and get fed and watered before our last push.

    With the rain staying strong, and the wind picking up, we decided it was the time to go, riding in the fading light with wet gloves, coats and shoes (Simon was also down to shorts).

    I quite enjoyed the ride - it felt a bit more adventurous - but we were both glad to reach our campsite, with sodden shoes, damp clothes and waterproof gloves holding small pools of water, and access our 'dolls house' of a cabin for drying and resting.    Read more

  • TravelerCycling Scandinavia 2016
    1
    Day 18

    Day 15 - Fleeing the Rain

    May 27, 2016 in Sweden ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    After the previous day and a glance at future, rain-heavy weather forecasts, we decided that today was the day to make our last public transport hop. In order to stay (roughly) on track, we had to catch a bus East to Stockholm, therfore to catch a train West to Skovde.

    It seemed simple enough, but our camp manager informed us that the only way our bikes could travel by bus or train in this region was in a packed state, much like how we shipped them for the flights over. Luckily, he turned out to be a very charitable camp manager, and supplied us with all we needed; including plastic and gaffer tape to wrap our bikes, computer access for booking our tickets and a lift to the station.

    On arriving at the station, we forced 50 SEK (about) 3 quid) into his hand and climbed on the bus. That part of the journey went smooth, but upon arriving at Stockholm we realised that we were in a different world. The station was huge and full of people, and we had too much luggage to carry in one go (it's a lot more to carry when it's off the bike). So we moved our bags in relays, always keeping a line of sight to the pile that we left and the new one we were creating. After doing this three times, we were outside a Subway, so we could buy something resembling a lunch and use that as a base while one of us went to buy train tickets.

    Stockholm Bus and Train terminal is huge but, long story short, we eventually got on a train (6 hours after we arrived) and had a smooth run to Skovde. Where we could check in to our hotel - the only place that we were capable of reaching from the station (in similar relays).    Read more

  • TravelerCycling Scandinavia 2016
    Day 18

    Day 16 - Engl(ish) Country Ride

    May 27, 2016 in Sweden ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    With a shorter day planned that allowed time for us to take advantage of a hotel breakfast and get our bikes re-build and fixed up (as well as more clothes to be hand-washed) we set off in the late afternoon for a 40km ride to Falkoping.

    (This was after stopping in the hotel corridor to have our photos taken by guests and hotel staff - it seems taking on a foolish and ill-planned journey turns you into a local celebrity)

    In spite of the rain, that chased us out of Skovde and drove our pace, this was one of the best rides yet. Most of the journey was gently rolling countryside that strongly resembled rural England (or Wales, even), complete with dry stone walls, ploughed fields and farm houses.

    It was all quite gentle and easy to take in until we reached Falkoping, and realised our campsite was actually a ski resort that takes summer guests. So the final 4km was a steep mountain climb to reach the peak overlooking the town and much of our route for the next day.

    It was nice to have the challenge (no climb has beaten me yet!), and we arrived earlier enough to pitch tents, play some mini golf and enjoy some free drinks from yet another generous camp manager.    Read more

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