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  • Day273

    back home

    April 21 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    We made it back to California, where we self quarantine in a cute cabin at the Beach in Cayucos. Esmeralda is in a custom zone in the Buenos Aires harbor until a boat is actually going to the US and not cancelled , hopefully May 18th so we can pick her up in Houston, texas later in June.
    After all, a big part of traveling is coming home and we appreciate again the beauty of our landscape, sea and people.
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  • Day261

    Escape from argentine Quarantine

    April 9 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    After more then 4 weeks isolated in a campground in las grutas , north patagonia ,we are on the road again!
    With the help of the US embassy we got papers to drive and booked the only flight leaving to the USA in April .
    In two days we made it to Zarate , the port of buenos aires , where we plan to drop off our camper in the morning . We are spending the night here in the parkinglot with a bunch of german overlanders. So nice to meet and talk to our fellow travelers again ! After the truck is gone and waiting for the next ship, we plan to take off to Miami on Saturday by plane , if all goes well!
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  • Day234

    Quarantine in north patagonia

    March 13 in Argentina ⋅ 🌙 29 °C

    Just 100 meters away from the beautiful beach in Las Grutas is our campground . But just like in other countries public life is shutting down more every day. While we had been ordered mandatory quarantine in our camper by the police, as of tommorow similar rules are true for Argentiniens. No beach , no fishing ,no public gatherings ,stay in your home for 14days as our camphost told us . We are lucky we have food,water,solarpanels and can survive for 10 days or so as the only guests on this large campground.
    We had been traveling back to the US in february ,due to a family emergency . When we returned , things had just started to intensify and by the time we returned to our camper here, we were obviously suspect as the foreigners.
    We are aware (thanks to Google FI our internet provider) whats happening in the world and also considering possible options.
    Good luck to all of you out there , stay happy and healthy!
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  • Day198

    Atlantic coast in Patagonia

    February 6 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Driving backup along the Atlantic coast, the pampa surprises with more animals then fellow vehicles . Rheas (the really big birds that run up to 50km per hour), Guanacos (wild lamas) , wild horses and grey foxes are the ones often visible from the road. Then on side roads we also find the Maras, rabbits the size of german shepard dogs. Then the armadillos , looking like they just put the latest starwars outfit, today i walked right by one without noticing the curled up rock looking thing next to my feet. And up on the coast they all mingle with the magellanic penguins ,sealions and many birds .
    The penguins are just hardwarmingly cute, probably because they remind us of ourselves chatting and mingling in our colonies.
    Also a petrified forest from 150million years ago is very impressive ,the trees ,some 3meters in diameter ,100m tall and at the time 1000 years old are lying at the same spot where they came down during the time the dinosaurs roamed.
    Otherwise the days are getting shorter ,with our northward travel the sun goes down at 8 instead of 9 pm and for the first time we are seeing temperatures in the 70's again.
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  • Day193

    El Fin del Mundo

    February 1 in Argentina ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    The end of the road in Ushuaia, Argentine . We find a number of fellow overlanders at the harbor including the old Renault,who also is planning to complete the full panamerikana, Ushuaia to Alaska. In the statepark close to town we see the red headed magelanian woodpecker.
    And one of the campgrounds has some innovative recycling options , including glass bottle trees and a playground built from recycled materials .
    What all the overlanders struggle with is getting money in Argentina. Oddly enough , the Western union exchange rate is by far the best , so we spent time lining up there as well with other travellers. At the end, if we are lucky and the store has enough pesos, we walk out with a shopping bag full of bills ! Its definitly complicated with an inflation rate of 50% per year ....but despite all of these issues the argentinos/as are wonderful people and we really enjoy our time here.
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  • Day186

    Puerto Natales and the Torres

    January 25 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    impressions from windswept patagonia in chile near the famous Torres del Paine national park. Including a puma that crossed behind our outdoor cafe ...they are really big animals !

  • Day177

    Ruta 40 south

    January 16 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    From the lush valleys along the Caraterra Astral we are getting back into Argentina's pampa along the southern part of Hwy 40. The wind blows so hard, motobikers need to drive walking speed and put the foot down to not be blown off . In El Chalten , we climb to the base of famous FitzRoy mountain . In Calafate we walk on the second largest ice sheet in the Hemisphere after Antarctica- the southern Patagonian Ice Field . Its a sureal experience to stomp with cramp-ons between the dark blue holes, gaps and ice bergs .Read more

  • Day172

    Glaciers along Careterra Austral

    January 11 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Following the Careterra Austral southwards we see lots of rain , snow and an ever present ice cold wind. At the little town of Rio tranquillo we drive back into a remote valley where we spent the night at the end of the road( after crossing a bridge with not even inches to spare) . We had booked a boat trip to the laguna and glacier San Rafael. During the 2hour boat ride the icebergs floating arround us become bigger and more frequent until we reach the glacier that flows into the San Rafael fjord with a 70m high edge into the sea. The glacier is one noisy monster with frequent , thundering breakoffs. We also spot a rare leopard sea lion,many unique birds and some dolphins. Also , the traditional whiskey toasted with a piece of glacier ice, warms us up nicely.
    The next day we hike back to Lago Leones in the neighboring valley ,with another glacier gliding right into the lake. The 25 km hike was a bit much for us, but despite having 4x4 turned on to drive as far as possible, on these miserable roads , they do end rather soon and hiking is the only option.
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  • Day162

    From El Bolson to Chile

    January 1 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    What a difference a few hippies can make ( we know that from our hometown Nevada City)....in the 1970s a bunch of hippies moved to El Bolson in the argentine Andes and we still feel such a nice vibe throughout town . Organic veggies (Susanne had the biggest smile) , cafes,breweries and an artesian Market with home made handycrafts , jams, foods and cloth.
    Up above town ,where a fire had destroyed the forest, artist made a sculpture forest out of the burned stumps. What a little vision and creativity can do!
    From there on our way back to Chile , we find great campgrounds at one of the lakes and in a working vinyard and winery. Back in Chile we finally hit the Careterra Austral, the 1240km long highway that runs through the remote Panagonia region . We see more bicyclists then cars and thanks to the heavy rain that started , the many non paved areas of the Careterra got the dust under control.
    In the small town of Puyuhuapi, we see signs for Tsunami warning and realize the big lake is actually a fjord connected to the Pacific .
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  • Day157

    Bariloche

    December 27, 2019 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    The town Bariloche spreads along a lake and has a definite "lake tahoe" feeling to it.....lodge style timber framed hotels , fancy sport stores and any amount of hiking ,biking and boating you desire. We spent Christmas in Colonia Suiza , one of the oldest settlements outside the town . It still maintains a little swiss village that attracts visitors from Bariloche. Our campground hostess put a nice party together in the community room and we had a lovely night with a german couple we had met in Ecuador first and Suly , a malaysian girl travelling solo on a motorbike. Surrounding Bariloche is the parque national Nauel Huapi with the glaciers of the Cerro Tromador with 3800meters at its center. We hiked through rain, hail and snow to the Refugio Otto Meiling and sleep under the roof with a number of other wet hikers. But the morning is beautiful and the glaciers sparkle all around us .Read more

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