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Zauners Lap of Oz
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Zauners Lap of Oz

A 71-day adventure by Zauners Read more
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  • Zauners AroundZauners Lap of OzTraveler

    Mataranka

    May 10–12, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    Here in Mataranka, home to the Mangarayi and Yangman people and made famous by Jeannie Gunn’s 1908 novel “We of the Never Never”, we spent lots of time drifting along the wonderful warm waters of Mataranka Thermal Pools and Bitter Springs, where we dived down spotting turtles in amongst the lily pads and weeds. We also hung around at another amazing campground, Little Roper Stockcamp with its tagline “Pat ‘Em Feed ‘Em Eat ‘Em”! More reptiles were passed around, more cute animals fed (this time squirrel gliders), there was playground built out of giant hay balls and campers could enjoy a daily breakfast cook up of tasty Johnny Cakes as well as various evening meals, complete with Saturday night murder stories told after dark by campsite owner, Des.

    Mataranka is also famous for being home to Nathan “Whippy” Griggs, world record holding whip cracker! After hearing glowing reviews, we timed our stay to coincide with his opening performance for the season. A fun mix of incredible tricks, whip cracking to music and some great NT jokes, Whippy certainly didn’t disappoint.

    Our visit ended on Mother’s Day morning and Andrea felt very lucky to be treated to a bircher muesli breakfast and some beautiful gifts from our travels, and 7 hours spent together in the car travelling to our next stop 🥰    Read more

  • Zauners AroundZauners Lap of OzTraveler
    Karlu Karlu
    Karlu Karlu sunsetKarlu Karlu sunsetKarlu Karlu sunrisePosing in front of the rocks Mama and Papa climbed on 21 years ago - no longer allowedKarlu KarluKarlu KarluOur campsiteQuirky little outback town of Day WatersQuirky little outback town of Day WatersQuirky little outback town of Day Waters

    Karlu Karlu (Devil’s Marbles)

    May 12–13, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Karlu Karlu, translated as “place of many round boulders”, appears out of nowhere when you turn off the Stuart Highway with its endless flat plains and arrive to see huge rounded granite rocks laying around as if dropped in a messy heap by a giant.

    It was here that we left the northern Australian heat behind us, packing up our fans and dusting off our sleeping bags, down jackets and fleece tracksuit pants, which came in very handy after our chilly morning walk to watch the sunrise amidst the Devil’s Marbles.

    On our drive in, we also had a quick morning stopover in the little town of Daly Waters with its quirky pub decorated in old clothes, signs and number plates, impressive collection of old timer planes, helicopters, trucks and cars, and saltwater croc named Kevin in a cage by the side of the road welcoming visitors.    Read more

  • Zauners AroundZauners Lap of OzTraveler
    Sunset at Undoolya Hill looking out over the West Macdonnell Ranges
    The road to Alice SpringsCrossing back out of the Tropic of CapricornThe scenic backdrop of the Alice Springs Desert ParkBird show at the Desert ParkBird show at the Desert ParkNina holding a barn owl at the Desert ParkNina holding a barn owl at the Desert ParkEmily at Emily Gap

    Alice Springs

    May 13–15, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Alice Springs was built in a scenic little spot, hidden in amongst the mountains of the Macdonnell Range. The town has had a bad rap of late, with unrest as well as travellers’ stories of theft, however we felt safe here and loved our short stay - and not just because of our pizza night out at Alice Springs Brewing Co or because of the giant, super speedy waterslide at our campground!

    The Desert Park was certainly a highlight. We learnt about the six desert habitats that we recognised from our travels, saw lots of animals that had so far alluded us (like thorny devils, malas, ghost bats, echidnas and dingoes) and increased our knowledge of bush medicine and bush tucker, ruby salt bush berries being a favourite. The bird show was incredible and Nina absolutely loved having the opportunity to hold a barn owl. We also visited the Tjanpi Desert Weavers, an Aboriginal community organisation in which women come together to collect grass to create fibre art, and also share stories, skills and experiences. In the evening, we followed a 4WD trail up Undoolya Hill to watch a stunning sunset over the West Macdonnell Ranges, the next stop on our trip.

    Last stop on our way out of Alice Springs was Emily Gap, obviously a must-see! Known as Anthwerrke to the Arrernte people, it is a scenic gap in the mountain range just east of town which is the site of rock paintings depicting the story of the three caterpillar ancestral beings for the Alice Springs area.    Read more

  • Zauners AroundZauners Lap of OzTraveler
    1Ormiston Gorge
    Heading towards the West Macdonnell RangeSimpsons GapSimpsons Gap1Brumbies crossing the roadEllery Creek Big HoleOchre PitsOrmiston Gorge1Ormiston GorgeMaking tea in the billyWhittling some woodScones ready for the campfireScones almost readyRedbank GorgeRedbank GorgeOn our way back out of the West Macdonnell Ranges

    Tjiritja (West Macdonell Ranges)

    May 15–17, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    There is no shortage of beautiful gorges, walks and look out points to visit as you drive through Tjiritja, the West Macdonell Ranges which stretch 160km west of Alice Springs, and if you’re as lucky as we were, you also get to watch a big group of brumbies as they cross the road and trott off into the woodlands. The area makes up part of the famous Red Centre Way and we were surprised at the green scenery, not nearly as red as expected.

    We visited Simpsons Gap, Ellery Creek Big Hole, Ormiston Gorge and Redbank Gorge, all different and beautiful in their own right. Josh and Timo were the only ones to go swimming though, braving the cold gorge water. A walk to Ochre Pits was worthwhile to see large walls of white, yellow and red ochre, traditionally used by the Arrernte people to prepare medicines, for religious ceremony and for decoration. We also saw many hikers taking on the Larapinta Trail, ranked one of the world’s top 20 treks, which weaves through these and many more sights.

    Our woodland campground was great for afternoon fires in the cooler weather and Emily extended her baking repertoire to include campfire scones, scrumptious with butter and jam.

    Edit to add: After leaving the West Macdonnell Ranges we leant that just 2 days later our old friend Gill Fowler had run the entire 240km Larapinta Trail in under 50 hours as part of the West Macs Monster trail running event. What an absolute super star!!!    Read more

  • Zauners AroundZauners Lap of OzTraveler
    Sheer cliff faces of Kings Canyon
    Steep hike inPeeking over the rim of Kings CanyonPeeking over the rim of Kings Canyon2Spotted some wild camels on the drive inSpotted some wild camels on the drive in1The drive in4Another beautiful sunrise

    Kings Canyon, Watarrka National Park

    May 17–18, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 24 °C

    We had an eventful drive into Wattarka National Park, spotting not just brumbies on the side of the road this time, but also wild camels and dingoes!

    Despite a strong wind as we launched into the 6km Kings Canyon rim walk, the changing scenery along the track kept spirits and energy levels high. We hiked up a steep track and past rocky outcrops, then through bungle-bungle-like domes towards spectacular sheer cliff faces before dropping into the lush, green forest of the Garden of Eden within the canyon.

    After climbing back out to the other side, we all loved laying flat on our tummies to shuffle right to the edge of the canyon and peek down over the enormous sheer drop, recreating a photo taken of Timo and Andrea when they were here 21 years ago.    Read more

  • Zauners AroundZauners Lap of OzTraveler
    Uluṟu at sunrise
    First glimpse on the horizon1Uluṟu sunset1Uluṟu sunset1Uluṟu sunsetKata Tjuta with Uluṟu on the horizonKata Tjuta Valley of the Winds walkKata Tjuta Valley of the Winds walkKata Tjuta Valley of the Winds walkKata Tjuta Valley of the Winds walkKata Tjuta Valley of the Winds walkOutback camel rideOutback camel ride121Uluṟu at sunrise

    Uluru and Kata Tjuta

    May 18–21, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 24 °C

    The distances in the outback are great and the drive out here felt longer than most thanks to much anticipation, but the moment we spotted Uluru on the horizon really was special (after the classic Mount Conner false spotting that is). Whether from a distance or close up, the rock is spectacular.

    First up was a bike ride around the base. Excited to be back on bikes after an 8 week break, we marvelled the changing rock faces as we rode the 11km loop and imagined the waterfalls and rock pools that would flow after rain and catch in the rock’s rivets, cups and caves. We visited the Uluru Kata Tjuta Cultural Centre to learn about the Anungu people and their Dreamtime stories, and then ended our day with drinks and canapés (aka snacks we pulled together from our camping supplies) as we watched a magical sun set over Uluru.

    Our 7.5km Valley of the Winds hike through Kata Tjuṯa the next morning was windy and cold (our weather app told us ‘feels like 0.5 degrees’ when we woke), but absolutely beautiful. Kata Tjuṯa, translated as ‘many heads’ may be less famous than Uluru, but the giant mounds of rock, the tallest of which stands 200m higher than Uluru, are arguably even more impressive to behold. After completing the hike, we were more than happy to put our feet up and relax on an outback camel ride. We’ve all fallen in love with camels on this trip and were excited to get to know our camel hosts, Lassy, Sunny and Nugget, while we rode through the desert.

    The next morning, we got up in the dark and headed to the sunrise viewing point to farewell Uluru and the Red Centre as the sun rose. And then we were on our way back towards the highway, headed southwards, inching our way closer to home.    Read more

  • Zauners AroundZauners Lap of OzTraveler
    The view in and around Coober PedyThe Blower, a mining truck used to suck dirt up and out of the opal minesNoodling for opals in town2Testing out the old shaft lift in Tom's Opal MineSelling opals for chocolate, lollipops and dollar coinsSelling opals for chocolate, lollipops and dollar coins1Josh with his prize opal pendantThe underground Serbian Orthodox ChurchCamping on our way to Coober PedyThe South Australian outbackOne of many eagles looking out for roadkill11Lake Hart, a beautiful salt lake south of Coober PedyStanding on Lake HartStanding on Lake Hart

    Coober Pedy and Outback SA

    May 21–23, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    In our guide book, the people of Coober Pedy describe their town as ‘unique’. We definitely agree and would perhaps add the word ‘dustbowl’ to the description. Founded after the first opal was discovered in 1915, Coober Pedy was once a booming town of 6,000, but now has a population of just 1,400 people along with hundreds of thousands (if not millions) of mining holes in the ground and just as many mounds of dirt in varying sizes. The town’s name is derived from the Anungu words Kupa Piti meaning ‘white man in hole’.

    During our short stay we tried our hand at noodling, attempting to find our own opal stones in some public mounds of dirt located in town. We did actually finding a rock with some potential - if we can just work out how to whittle it down without the help of any opal cutting tools…

    After sampling some delicious local pies, we went underground to visit a Serbian Orthodox Church and to take an exciting tour of a working opal mine, complete with an opal search. Josh hit the jackpot, winning his very own boulder opal pendant as the prize. The kids even got to barter with the mine owner, ‘selling’ the opals they found for chocolate, lollipops or a couple of dollars, and the complimentary scones and coffee / chocolate milk at the end rounded off a fun visit perfectly.

    Some other notable mentions for our drive through the South Australian outback plains include sightings of emus, an echidna, goats crossing the road, eagles feasting on roadkill and the incredibly beautiful Hart salt lake.    Read more

  • Zauners AroundZauners Lap of OzTraveler
    Loooking out to Razorback Ridge
    Driving into the Flinders RangesWilson ruins, one of many remnants of the pastoralists and farmers of the late 19th centuryHiking trails in Wilpena PoundTaking a break on the hiking trailsCamping at Wilpena PoundCute little rock wallabyAn emu daddy with his kidsWangara LookoutSnack with a viewMade it to the top of Mount Ohlssen BaggeBucking mountain goatsDriving through the rangesFollowing the ridge line to Razorback Lookout

    Ikara - Flinders Ranges National Park

    May 23–26, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Driving in amongst the hills and mountains of the Flinders Ranges really felt like entering a whole new world: one of pine forests, giant eucalyptus trees with massive trunks and more wildlife than we had seen anywhere else on our journey. Lots of kangaroos, emus, feral goats and different birds, but it was most exciting to finally see some cute little rock wallabies.

    Based in Wilpena Pound, we sampled the hiking trails, doing a 9km hike along the creek bed and valley and up to the beautiful Wangara Lookout. Andrea also added a solo hike to the top of Mount Ohlssen Bagge for an incredible 360 degree view of the Pound and surrounding mountains - and a bird’s eye view of bucking mountain goats, an exciting sight at the top of the mountain, but unfortunately unwanted as feral goats here ruin the waterways, landscape and food sources for native animals.

    We also headed out by car following scenic unsealed roads along the ridge lines and valleys of the area, but made sure there was time for a campfire in the afternoons and evenings, for playing games and warming up.    Read more

  • Zauners AroundZauners Lap of OzTraveler
    Living Desert sculptures
    Living Desert sculpturesLiving Desert sculpturesLine of Load Miners MemorialA rose for each deceased miner at the Line of Load Miners MemorialDeggy and Jenny, two of the four wild donkeys that roam around SilvertonThe famous Silverton Hotel, featured in multiple Hollywood moviesThe Mad Max II museum in SilvertonStocking up on sugar at the 1950s Bell's Milk BarSuper ice cream sundaeSickly sweet spiders and sundaesGreat climbing trees at our campsiteFeeding the highland cows at our campgroundFeeding the alpacas at our campgroundFeeding Johnny the Shetland pony at our campground

    Broken Hill

    May 26–28, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Broken Hill, aka ‘The Silver City’, was founded in 1883 when silver ore was discovered in the area. It’s still a mining town today and while we were here we visited the Line of Lode Memorial, built in remembrance of individuals killed in the mines, a both moving and impressive sight, located at the top of a mountain of discarded mining rubble overlooking the town on one side and an active mine on the other.

    We enjoyed the Living Desert, a series of rock sculptures on a hill outside of town and a visit out to nearby Silverton, a dusty outback town with a population of 48 (not including the 4 resident donkeys that roam the town) and a famous pub which has featured in multiple Hollywood movies. Back in Broken Hill for the afternoon, we made sure to boost our sugar levels with milkshakes, spiders, ice cream sundaes and waffles from the 1950s Bell’s Milk Bar, where we chatted to a lady in her 70s who was sipping on a lime spider and had been visiting the milk bar since her childhood. Apparently it hasn’t changed!

    In the evening the kids were excited to feed animals yet again at our campsite, this time highlander cows, alpacas and a cute little shetland pony named Johnny.

    On our way out of town the following morning, we were stopped by police following a head-on collision on the road ahead and ended up camping out on the highway for 6 hours (feeling relieved to be alive) before we were again on our way east.    Read more

  • Zauners AroundZauners Lap of OzTraveler
    Can we take a baby giraffe home?
    The meerkats are always a hitSo many giraffes up closeLook at those eyes!Spots and stripesGiant, slow, incredible creaturesShort clawed sea otters who loved our company so much they cried out when we left!On zoo safariCheetahs looking out for meal

    Dubbo

    May 28–31, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    As we headed east towards Dubbo, we noticed the shift from outback to central NSW in the landscape, buildings and infrastructure, making us all too aware of how remote our last 10 weeks really had been.

    Once in town, we wasted no time getting out to Taronga Western Plains Zoo, touring the 6km loop not once or even twice, but three times over our two day visit - more if you include Timo and Andrea’s jogging tours. We even got to do one three hour loop in an awesome little zebra safari buggy! The zoo was massive, the animals were amazing (our family favs were the spider monkeys, otters and Galapagos tortoises) and the safari buggy was great fun.

    We also loved catching up with family while we were here, visiting Andrea’s cousin Dom and his family in their home for a wonderful evening together.    Read more

  • Zauners AroundZauners Lap of OzTraveler
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    The Last Post

    May 31, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    On our last morning we woke to our first rain in 10 weeks, quite fitting to match the mood in our caravan.

    The five and a half hour drive home gave us time to reflect on everything we had experienced on our journey together.

    Vibrant colours… endless bright blue sky, dusty red earth, white sands, turquoise waters and black night skies bursting with stars.

    Natural landscapes… wide flat plains, deserts far more rich in life than we had expected, rocks in an incredible array of formations, gorgeous gorges - each one unique and different, mountain ranges, beaches that could not have been more beautiful and flora ranging from spiky little desert bushes only the camels can stomach to the giant eucalyptus trees of the Flinders Ranges.

    First Nations culture and history… the incredible connection to and knowledge of the land for everything from Dreamtime stories to food, shelter, tools, weapons, medicines and decoration, and the destruction that white people have brought upon a big part of this land over a very short period of time.

    Animals… wild emus, camels, brumbies, eagles, goats and cows by the road as we drove, diverse and beautiful sea life along the coast and in the coral reef, equally awe-inspiring and terrifying crocodiles and jelly fish up north, and a wide range of reptiles and farm animals that we fed, petted, rode and observed with keen interest.

    And people… unique and wonderful campground hosts and tour guides, friendly campers at every stop along the way, and our own wonderful little family, the best group of people we ever could have imagined doing this trip with.

    But this post wouldn’t be complete without some stats:
    - 18,200km: 15,500km en route, 2,700km day trips
    - Average 256km per day
    - 70 nights in 5 states/territories: WA 40 nights, NT 15 nights, SA 9 nights, NSW 6 nights, VIC 1.5 hours
    - 38 campsites: 1x 4 nights, 7x 3 nights, 15x 2 nights, 15x 1 night
    - 2 scarfs crocheted, 2m of cord knitted, 4m of loom band cord created, at least 10 friendship bands knotted and countless books read (many multiple times)    Read more

    Trip end
    May 31, 2024
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