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Te Araroa HOBOs
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  • SouthernDon
  • OldLadyWalks

Te Araroa HOBOs

Arrowtown is home. We are walking Homeward-bound (HOBO) south and then HOBO north over the 25/26 summer.
We (Don & Shona) are a retired kiwi couple in our 60s. Walking the length of NZ seems like a good retirement challenge. Read more
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    🇳🇿 Tamahere, New Zealand
    Te Araroa HOBOs
    2
    1Balcony of Puhoi Hotel2Wenderholm Regional Park4Dotterel eggsBar-tailed Godwits at WenderholmSo many pigeons watching us eat our icecreamsBack to civilisation4

    A Nearo Day

    Yesterday in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    From Puhoi to Tamahere!
    Today was a day of repositioning ourselves for rest and recovery.
    We started the day with a relaxed 2 hour 8km kayak down the Puhoi river with what had become our group of walkers. By road, it was a 7 minute drive! On arrival at Wenderholm Regional Park, we all went our separate ways - it is strange to think we will probably not encounter those people again.
    Our plans to stay overnight at Wenderholm were thwarted by Auckland Regional Council 's overdeveloped H&S system that would not allow an injured hiker with a very small tent to stay, as the campsite was fully booked.
    So after lunch on the beach with dotterels & godwits, our little progress on the trail extended a bit further as we road walked half an hour to catch a bus to central Auckland. We then walked half an hour to Ben's flat (shower, muffins and a cup of tea), then Ben braved our pungent hiker odour & drove us down to Tamahere, near Hamilton, to stay at my brother's place for a few days.
    And here we shall remain for a wee while.
    BTW, the Nearo from the title of this footprint is hiker talk for a near zero day. And a zero day is hiker talk for a day where no progress is made on the trail, usually for rest and restocking.    Read more

  • Te Araroa HOBOs
    1Trail marker cairn - North Island style14Blue pimpernel, apparently!22

    Beautiful day. Until it Wasn't

    October 24 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Had a fantastic, restful night with trail angels that couldn't do enough for their guests. Made us sleep inside because there was 'rain in the forecast' (it didn't rain). Fresh veges for tea. Vogel's bread, local orange jam, and moccona coffee. Took us up to feed the eels. Just excellent.
    Set off and climbed a hill past a forestry harvesting operation which we enjoyed watching. Then wandered a mix of quiet roads and trails to a Doc campsite for a loo break. And that's when the trouble started.
    As we put on our packs and took our first few steps onward, I heard a crash and a swear word from behind, and I looked back to see OldLadyLiesOnTheGround.
    She had rolled her ankle on a loose stone and sprained it quite well. As they say, if a job's worth doing, it's worth doing properly.
    So we spent an hour dealing with the sprain and scraped knee and figuring out a plan. Then, after some weight readjustment, we hobbled a km to the main road to Puhoi, and OldLadyLimps hitched a ride 3km to Puhoi to the pub where we had already booked accommodation. I completed the trail section and joined her an hour later. Then we drank a bit of anaesthetic and pretended all was right with the world. Enjoyed an evening with fellow walkers & impromptu live music.
    To discover the end of this saga, dear reader, you will need to be patient as our tale unfolds with the passage of days.    Read more

  • Te Araroa HOBOs
    2
    241214Feeding Harry, Earl & Baby - longfin eels

    Camping hellhole to Camping paradise

    October 23 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Km 507 to km 530.
    We aren't going to moan about the Nowhere in Particular hellhole campsite. Suffice to say there were 7 camped there and not one had anything good to say.
    We woke tired after a windy, uncomfortable night to a windy, foggy, humid day.
    But the day's track was a good one. Winding trails through attractive bush, kaka in the trees, mostly easy grades, a beautiful natural ford on the river, a stand of large kauri, and enough tree roots and tricky sections to keep it challenging. And to top it off we stopped with trail angels who couldn't do enough to make us comfortable. Wouldn't let us camp because it was raining, picked heaps of veg from the garden they keep explicitly for TA walkers. Local orange jam & Vogels for breakfast. Great accommodation, just what's needed when arriving tired and sore after a big day. Stopping here is recommended.!
    Rested and ready to hit the trail again this morning!    Read more

  • Te Araroa HOBOs
    6Found a penguin!
    22Doing it in styleThere was a section of track that was a steep scramble up through the rocks.6The 500km platformThe alien detection stationStill styling it out at the end of the dayDental floss gear maintenance on my pack straps

    Pakiri to Nowhere In Particular

    October 21 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    Km 493 to km 507 - via Te Hikoi O Te Kiri track
    Woke to yet another beautiful morning, but it didn't last. Had ice cream for breakfast (mum wasn't watching). Cloudy and windy by the time we hit the hills. A continuous rise to 450m through thigh high kikuyu pasture then scrub and forest. Got a great view north back to Whangarei Heads, which we climbed 4 long days ago, and a great view south where we could see Rangitoto Island in the distance, maybe a week away.
    Passed the 500km mark at the top of the hill and had a drink of water to celebrate. Just 2559km to go!
    Walked past the alien detection station at the top of the hill, then dropped a couple of hundred metres (down and up and down and up) and wandered 7km to tonight's campsite.    Read more

  • Te Araroa HOBOs
    1

    Black shell day

    October 20 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    A lot of black shells on the beach today. Must be something in the water.

  • Te Araroa HOBOs
    Food for the next 4 days
    Sparrow drinking flax nectar. Little toadGobble GobbleNot the dangerous river2This is the dangerous river!12Lucky to have survived!3This photo was taken of us by another TA walker at Whangarei beach

    To Pakiri - More @!**%$!# Beach

    October 20 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Km 471 to 493
    Today was another beautiful beach day. Again.
    Beautiful weather when we woke, so we got our tent and fly dry. The wet tent and fly is a constant problem each morning even when it's not raining. If we pack it wet, it adds a fair bit of weight in the pack, but it takes an hour on a good day to get it dry, so we usually pack it wet. Today, we got them dry, so good start to the day. Road walking (again!) for 7 km of mostly really busy road with limited shoulder. And that's when I read the route description, which advised we had a tricky, deep, dangerous river crossing at the end of the day. Only doable for a couple of hours at low tide. A quick review of the tide tables indicated we had just enough time to cross if we didn't dawdle.
    So, onto the beach for 12km.
    After an hour, we went over a hill where we briefly stopped for lunch with a view. Then on we pushed. Nonstop. Past several other TA walkers, straight down the beach for 3 hours.
    When we finally got to the dangerous river crossing, it turned out to barely be ankle deep!
    And that, dear reader, was the end of that day cos the campground (run by evil camp nazis - don't stay here) was just the other side of the dangerous river.    Read more

  • Te Araroa HOBOs
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    Waipu Cove to Mangawhai

    October 19 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Km 441 to 471
    Biggest day for us since 90 mile beach and the 3 weeks of walking in between have hardened us quite a bit so we finished our day in good condition for tomorrow.
    Today started with a beautiful, sunny, still morning as we left Waipu Cove and headed up the hills. After a couple of hours climbing up a quiet rural road, we reached a really nice track across the top of the Brynderwyns. Eventually we reached the day's summit at 300m only to find a topless sunbather. Northlanders sure like to get their kit off.
    From the summit we descended (and reascended and descended and reascended and descended) to eventually reach a fabulous coastal cliff walkway that took us down to the beach just north of Mangawhai Heads. There we took our shoes and socks off and wandered through the waves for a wee while. So good on our tired feet.
    We eventually got our campsite sorted (who knew campgrounds close for bookings at 4pm?) and ended up camped in a little orchard with a couple of young English girls who are also TA walkers.

    Tramping Rule 9: Big hills are smaller if you don't look up    Read more

  • Te Araroa HOBOs
    4Memories of Riverton Rocks
    Looking back to Whangarei HeadsLooking South to Waipu Cove2Awesome burger & chilli pilsner2Trudge, trudge, trudge!

    On we plod to Waipu Cove

    October 18 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Woke to a glorious view out over the estuary where Mama duck tended her ducklings. Our noisy (bird) neighbours from the night before seemed to be sleeping in, so all was quiet.
    Much time was spent in the kitchen charging a power bank & both devices before packing up & setting off. Packs were heavy & legs were leaden.
    We'd barely left the campground before OldLadyWalks was wistfully pondering toasted sandwiches! And pffft! Like magic, the Bach cafe appeared, offering divine muffins & donuts. Plus coffee ☕️ 😋
    Re-energised, we raced up the beach, admired the happy dogs, naturists, stroppy horses and chatted with the fisher people. Then onto Tip road, and south to Waipu. The prospect of a brewery there helped distract from the busy traffic & happily, it exceeded expectations. Another diversion into a great wee art shop, then back onto the road to Waipu Cove. And here we are, showered & set up for a lovely night of sleep before we do it all again tomorrow!    Read more

  • Te Araroa HOBOs
    2Cabbage tree moth
    Getting ready to boat hitchBreaking all the rules - but we got there!Hundertwasser museum, Whangarei2Sardines - 6 smelly bodies with packsWe walked this yesterdaySeagull feetPurple yam buns for lunchSand dollarNot a fan shell!2It was getting a bit deep !Made it - phew! Nothing got wet except us & the bottom & pockets of my packView from the tent

    Didn't think we'd get there today

    October 17 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    To continue the trail from last night's camp, we needed to get to Marsden Point. That's about 500m across the harbour or 20km by road. We had it all teed up for a boat crossing until about 7pm we were informed that the skipper had to head to Auckland and the next crossing would be Saturday.
    We were too tired to deal with it so went to bed.
    Next morning we were sitting at the boat ramp to thumb a ride across when a van pulled up and some TA walkers jumped out. Long story short we bummed a ride to Marsden Point via Whangarei with another 4 TA walkers. Even got a resupply at Pak n save and a tour round the outside of the Hundertwasser museum.
    Ended up doing a short day today, just 10km along the beach with a wade thru the Ruakaka river to finish. Staying at Ruakaka camping ground tonight. Showers, laundry, phone charging.
    Luxury.    Read more

  • Te Araroa HOBOs
    Yet more fanshells!An eggshell blue mushroom31Looking back where we'd come from2Shona didn't like the giant earwigOutboard motor letterbox2Manaia Club welcomes walkers

    Hard trails on Whangarei Heads

    October 17 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    This was a bit of a push for us. Not too much distance at about 16km for the day, but a total vert of about 700m. That's the first real big day we've had since 90 mile beach.
    The day started with 3km of beach walk and then straight into the climb to a 475m peak at the Heads of Whangarei Harbour. We won't mention the flabby old man lying naked at the end of the beach cos it was gross. The climb was steep and took a couple of hours. But the bush was awesome and we even got to hear geckos calling in the tree tops a couple of times.
    The trail continued along the ridge line going down 300m and back up 250m to a second peak. By then we were pretty knackered and we still had about 400m to descend and 7km to camp.
    Luckily we eventually passed a bar with a huge sign out saying walkers and visitors welcome so we fortified ourselves for the last 2km.    Read more

  • Te Araroa HOBOs
    3Tusk Shell2

    A Varied Day

    October 15 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    6am start this morning to hit the Taiharuru Estuary at low tide. Walked along yet more roads for 9km, made significantly better by the fresh early morning air after yesterday's rain. Breakfast was at a beautiful little estuary at Pataua. Recommended for a visit, take your own breakfast.
    Then, a couple of km on, we finally had the fun of wading the Estuary. Various reports on social media had indicated it would be pretty deep. So we spent an hour last night double and triple bagging all our gear.
    The crossing got shin deep.
    But the rest of the day was pretty good with a climb over Kauri Mountain (half right: not a mountain, but it did have kauris) and then along Ocean Beach to tonight's campsite.    Read more

  • Te Araroa HOBOs
    2Puriri Moth at Nikau Bay Camp
    4Puriri Moth - NZ's biggest MothSeagull motor for boat2Native Clematis1Pine forest

    18km to walk 5km

    October 14 in New Zealand

    Today we walked a big loop to effectively gain about 5km progress. The trail originally went just 5km to get to here but a landowner died and the new landowners closed access. Now we have to do a big road walk, a short pine forest walk, then another big road walk to get to the same place. Oh, well.
    The long road walking sections are mostly behind us now, till we hit Auckland.
    Shona worked out we've walked 151km in the last 7 days. Now at km 375 of 3056. Knocked off the first 10%!
    We are finally getting a bit fitter for the trail. We finish each day a bit less sore, and we are gradually starting to increase our daily distances. It has taken a while!    Read more

  • Te Araroa HOBOs
    13Our private room for the night. $10 each more than tenting. So worth it.Fresh produce provided for us walkers to add to our meals. Very much appreciatedGreat kitchen facilities at Nikau Bay campsite3Nikau Bay campground. Great facilities. Great host.

    Walking our own walk

    October 14 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    There is a saying among long-distance trekkers: 'hike your own hike'. Largely, it means making the choices that work for you and not following someone else's agenda. So that's what we have been doing.
    Today's effort was to follow the advice of a local man at Sandy Bay and walk the coast road, not the inland roads that are the official TA route.
    As we were putting on our packs to leave the rubbish free camping area at Sandy Bay, a local man wandered up off the beach and asked where we were headed.
    'Ngunguru,' we replied, 'we are walking the TA'.
    'Well, I wouldn't go that inland route,' he said. 'The coast road is about the same distance but much prettier'
    We figure that locals know the local area and usually give good local advice, so 'OK,' we said and set off on the coast road.
    We walked alongside beaches, over hills, through little towns we've heard of but never visited (Matapouri and Tutukaka) stopped at shops for coffee and lunch and even got offered a ride (that we accepted) by a lady who turned out to have written the book about Julia Eichardt from Queenstown. (Of Eichardt's Hotel for those who know it).
    And to finish the day, we got a little dinghy ride across Ngunguru estuary to a beautiful private camping area where we are staying in a little hut.
    The other TA hikers were a bit jealous because the inland route was largely uninteresting road walking, 5km longer and more hilly. However, the coast route would be too dangerous during the peak season as there's not much room, so we understand why it's not the official TA route. We were lucky that it's a quiet time of year.    Read more

  • Te Araroa HOBOs
    21324

    Mimiwhangata to Sandy Bay

    October 12 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Took the route recommended to us by Justin from Oakura Bay. Across to the east coast and beach walk till you get to Rockell Rd then road walk to Whananaki. Tricky bit crossing maori land, but Justin is mates with the locals and arranged passage for us. All went well and no concrete waders for us today! The beach walk down that coast was an absolute highlight. Fantastic scenery and totally deserted till we got to the maori land at Rockell Rd.
    Had planned to stop at Onerua Bay campground but felt OK so continued to Whananaki. Still felt OK so continued on another 8km to a freedom camping area at Sandy Bay. Freedom Camping, Yeah, Right. Stink little pocket handkerchief of sloping grass in a carpark. Since we already walked 25km this is where we stopped despite it being a rubbish camping spot.    Read more

  • Te Araroa HOBOs
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    Oakura Bay to Mimiwhangata Coastal Park

    October 12 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Road walking all day today, but the second half was on very quiet country gravel roads and quite pleasant. Wandered down to NZ's only coastal park (who knew?) and stealth camped beside a little stream in the bush. Entertained by a couple of very hungry longfin eels who wanted to eat anything that went in the water. Top campsite. Would recommend but it shall remain secret!Read more

  • Te Araroa HOBOs
    52431

    Oakura bay

    October 10 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Short walk today, about 15km from 'the farm' to Oakura Bay. We got offered a ride soon after starting, which we declined since today, SouthernDonwas quite happy wandering along the road!.
    O Bay is a beautiful, relaxed, gentle Bay with heaps of traditional Kiwi baches. The beach is a bit like Riverton, but the Bay is much prettier with a white sand beach and rocks and islands dotted throughout. From our campsite we can see the Poor Knights islands on the horizon.
    As we walked into Oakura Bay, we got offered another lift on the back of a Ute because of the aggressive dogs up the road. He took us straight to the seafront campground we were aiming for, which was a bit further away than expected and exposed to quite a strong breeze off the sea. So we walked back over the hill to the sheltered side and arranged to stay with a trail angel in his tent site above the bay.
    We wandered up and down the beach and around the tidal island/headland this afternoon and finished with fish and chips on the beach.
    The trail angel has given us a heads-up about a much better route for the next 2 days. Strangely, I'd already been eyeing it up, but there was a section I was unsure about. On his advice, we will give it a go. Should you never hear from us again, we are wearing concrete waders, somewhere off the coast north of Whananaki.    Read more

  • Te Araroa HOBOs
    5112

    Road walking is still naff

    October 9 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Saw no kiwis overnight but we could hear them in the bush. Walked a narrow winding sealed road with mad trucks screaming back and forth this morning and then got attacked by a stupid magpie. No part of the morning was fun. But we turned onto a nice quiet gravel road through a forest dotted with magnificent kauri, rimu, rewarewa and other large trees. Just 3 or 4 vehicles went by; so much better!
    Eventually got to our overnight spot to discover half a dozen other TA walkers here. Community is forming. We are far and away slowest. And oldest!    Read more

  • Te Araroa HOBOs
    23411524

    Paihia to Orongo Bay

    October 8 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Walked the low tide route round from Paihia to Opua. Trouble is it was high tide when we started. Eventually sat on our own little beach to let the tide drop, then continued. Some of the best track we've walked so far.
    Lunch at Opua then caught the ferry across the harbour. Walked a few km to Orongo Bay campground, some road walking, some trails. The road sections are naff. Will try a bit of hitching tomorrow, we think.
    Apparently, Kiwi wander through the campground at night, so might go on a kiwi hunt tonight.    Read more

  • Te Araroa HOBOs
    Smoked Kahawai pie - the food Don grew up with!
    6This one is for you, Ben!1Michaela used to work here!5241Nice place to wait while the clothes wash at the laundromat.

    Paihia

    October 7 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    Zero day at Paihia today. Took the ferry to Russell/Kororareka for breakfast at Hellhole Cafe. Smoked Kahawai pie - there's a blast from my past! Good it was too.
    Russell was once known as the 'Hellhole of the Pacific' hence the name of the cafe. Apparently Kororareka means yummy little blue penguin. Didn't get to try one. Got wet in a rainstorm then headed back to Paihia. Shopping, laundry and planning the next few days.
    Nick from Paihia kayaks advises the tide is no good for kayaking tomorrow so we are picking up our food drop then walking instead. Have worked out some slightly shorter days.    Read more

  • Te Araroa HOBOs
    4

    Kerikeri to Paihia

    October 6 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Walked the trail from Kerikeri to Paihia today. Easy wander through pine forests most of the way with a bit of road walking each end. Spent an hour at Waitangi where we attached ourselves to a guided tour. Got a quick potted history of the early days of NZ from a very knowledgeable lady.
    Wandered down to the Paihia waterfront for a well earned beer this evening.
    Stopping here tomorrow so we can tourist to Russell. Weather forecast for Wed looks good for the long paddle leg that Shona is dreading!    Read more

  • Te Araroa HOBOs
    12Black-eyed Susan brightening up the grey day1Hmmm - a photographer's stance often isn't the most photogenic! 🤣Tree bark made for easy identification - Totara, Puriri, Matai331

    Kerikeri

    Oct 5–11 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    Staggered in to Kerikeri on Friday having booked accommodation 2 hours out with just 3% battery. Whew! Greeted with complementary wine and beer. Sooo good!
    3 days rest and recuperation completed and completely needed. Don's feet are mostly repaired and some of the leg strains (both of us) improved a bit.
    Caught up the little bit of trail that we cut short on Thursday so we will be able to start without a dogleg tomorrow.
    We are only 2 weeks in and everyday things like soft beds, showers and laundry feel like luxury.
    Northland is a dismal swamp!

    Tramping Rule 7: if it seems like a good idea, it's probably going to hurt    Read more

  • Te Araroa HOBOs
    5222

    Puketi HQ to Kerikeri

    October 3 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    An easy stroll through farmland and along riverbanks. Fourth consecutive day of 25km so tired and sore. Easy walking was welcome.
    A couple of impressive waterfalls, nice farmland, pretty bush, and areas of active regeneration and predator trapping.
    Had a stop beside a pretty section of stream and spotted koura in the creek; great to see.
    Birdsong accompanied us along the way - display calling from the Kahu, the honk of the Pūtangitangi in mating mode, the uplifting Riroriro cheering us on, the repetitive Kotare, an occasional Tui & Kereru & the boisterous Rosella.
    We plan to spend a few days here to repair our ragged legs. Don's feet are still a mess after 90 mile beach and he says he's sick of walking in a world of hurt. Shona's ankle needs a bit of time to ease also from a stumble in Raetea forest.
    No point walking and not enjoying it.    Read more

  • Te Araroa HOBOs
    4

    Puketi forest bypass

    October 3 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    An entire day of road walking from Louis Creek to Puketi Forest HQ. A tiny bit of farm land converted to pine forestry, a lot of pine forests and lots and lots of native forests at various stages of reversion. Quite a bit of kauri and rimu scattered among smaller species. There were loads of paryphanta shells along the side of the road which was a wonderful sign of a healthy population in the area. The road was easy walking and very quiet with just 1 vehicle in a 6 hour stretch then about 20 vehicles in the last hour.
    Our legs were really tired near the end of the day as we passed a 5 minute kauri forest walkway off the side of the road. We hummed and hahed and eventually went in and we were so glad we did. For 10 minutes we were awed. Mature kauri en masse are truly impressive. The photos don't do them justice. Highly recommended.    Read more

  • Te Araroa HOBOs
    1

    Louis Creek Bypass Bypass

    September 30 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Today, because our legs are creaking and threatening to fall apart completely, we took a bypass to bypass a bypass.
    The main trail here goes down a river gorge but there is a wet weather bypass. The usual route to the wet weather bypass involves quite a long dogleg. But we bypassed the dogleg up a forestry road. Our bypass cut 8km off the bypass.
    The full wet weather bypass is quite long at over 30km. We hope to finish the remaining 24km tomorrow if our munted legs will let us.
    Today we wandered in the rain alongside SH1 to the little town of Mangamuka Bridge where they sell the best long black coffees in Northland. Then we wandered through dairy farm country infested with kingfishers and paradise shelducks. Eventually we wandered up a forestry road that meandered between pinus radiata stands and kauri forest. And then the heavens opened. This time we followed Tramping Rule 5 and 10 minutes later we pitched our tent in the sunshine.    Read more

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