Iguazu Falls - Brazil, was it worth it?
3月9日, ブラジル ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C
Today we ticked off the Brazilian side of the incredible Iguazu Falls. But this one came with a bit of a back story.
Before we even left Australia, we had to organise Brazilian visas. That little exercise took a few weeks and lightened the wallet by about $160 USD each. Our travel agent had the park tickets sorted, but the visa was entirely our job.
So this morning we were picked up at 7:40am for the short trip across the border.
Short… in theory.
First stop was the Argentinian border control, which was quick and painless. Then across the bridge to Brazilian immigration, where we had to hop off the bus, join the queue, get passports stamped and present our shiny new visas. After all the border formalities, the drive and the organisation, it took about 2½ hours before we actually arrived at Iguazu National Park.
And once we were inside?
We had about two hours to explore.
But what a spectacular two hours it was.
The Brazilian side is famous for the panoramic views, and it really delivers. From this side you are looking back across the massive wall of waterfalls that mostly sit in Argentina. The scale is simply staggering — waterfalls stretching across the horizon, pouring over cliffs into a deep green jungle valley below.
We were also able to see the famous Devil’s Throat from a distance, where enormous volumes of water crash into the gorge creating clouds of mist that drift across the landscape.
It was busy — lots of people enjoying the same view — but the walkways are well designed and the vantage points are incredible.
Our guide Jorge was excellent, keeping the group organised and making sure we saw the key spots without wasting time.
So the big question…
Was it worth all the effort for two hours at the falls?
Honestly… yes.
Sometimes travel is like that. A lot of logistics, a bit of patience, and then suddenly you’re standing in front of one of the most powerful natural sights on the planet.
And Iguazu Falls absolutely delivers.
Another bucket list moment for the Not So Grey Wanderers.もっと詳しく
Ushuaia.
3月10日, アルゼンチン ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C
Today started very early… the alarm going off well before any sane person should be awake. A 4:00am start, bags packed and downstairs ready for a 5:30am bus to the airport.
By 7:00am we were airborne from Buenos Aires, heading south to the bottom of the continent. A few hours later, around 11:00am, we landed in Ushuaia, often described as the southernmost city in the world. From the plane you could immediately see the dramatic setting — mountains dropping down to the Beagle Channel and a harbour full of ships heading to Antarctica.
After arriving, HX (Hurtigruten Expeditions) provided lunch before boarding later in the afternoon, which gave us a few hours to explore.
Kim and I headed out for a wander through town.
First stop was an ice-cream shop, where we were tempted with a free sample (which of course worked perfectly as we ended up buying some!). Then we picked up some chocolate supplies for the cruise — always good to be prepared.
We wandered along the waterfront past the big Ushuaia sign, the harbour full of yachts, and the old shipwreck that sits quietly in the bay. The port area was buzzing with cruise ships and expedition vessels preparing for Antarctic departures.
Not surprisingly, we spotted our ship – the Fridtjof Nansen – several times while walking around the harbour. Seeing it sitting there made the whole adventure feel very real.
We also found the local artisan markets just outside the port and had a look through the stalls selling handmade crafts, woodwork and souvenirs.
Then, in the interest of important research, we located the Patagonia Brewing Company. It seemed only appropriate to test the local beer before heading off to Antarctica. Verdict: research successful. 🍺
Now we’re back near the port waiting for 4:00pm boarding, when we finally step onto the Fridtjof Nansen and begin the next stage of the journey.
From the tropical Amazon earlier in the trip… to the very bottom of South America.
Next stop: Antarctica.もっと詳しく
Drake Passage - first night onboard
3月11日, Indian Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C
Yesterday afternoon we officially joined our home for the next part of the adventure — the Fridtjof Nansen. Boarding in Ushuaia at 4pm was smooth and efficient, and before long we were settling into our cabin… and what a cabin it is.
We’re in Cabin 702, right at the very front of Deck 7 on the starboard side. Being at the bow means we have a fantastic balcony and uninterrupted views ahead — perfect for watching where this expedition is taking us.
Passengers are divided into groups for restaurant seatings and expedition activities. We’ve been assigned to the Crabeater Seal group, with a formal dinner sitting at 8:30pm. After our very early travel day though, we opted for an earlier meal in the café-style restaurant. The meal was perfectly fine… nothing extraordinary… although clearly memorable enough that I’m writing about it!
While we were eating, the ship quietly slipped away from Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world, and began our journey south.
By 8:30pm we were fast asleep.
Later in the night — around 10:40pm — the ship exited the Beagle Channel and entered the famous Drake Passage. Even though conditions were considered good, we could definitely feel the ship begin to roll gently as we moved into open ocean. Thankfully we both slept well.
This morning started with our 7:30 breakfast, and the buffet selection was outstanding — the sort of spread where restraint becomes a serious challenge.
At 9:30am we attended the expedition briefing, where we learned how the activity system works. Most of the excursions are allocated by lottery, so it’s a bit like waiting to see what adventure you draw next. We’ve put our names down for sea kayaking, which requires two separate briefings before we’re allowed out on the water. 🤞
For now though, we’re simply enjoying the experience — watching the endless ocean roll by as we head further south… soaking up the excitement of what lies ahead.
All while sipping on a rather nice “Tomb Raider” cocktail.
(And yes… if anyone wants the recipe, I might be persuaded to share.)
The adventure to Antarctica has officially begun.もっと詳しく
Antarctica - we have arrived.
3月13日, Bransfield Strait ⋅ ❄️ 0 °C
It’s been a few days since my last update as we’ve mostly been travelling by sea. The rhythm of ship life takes over — eat, sleep, watch the ocean — and before you know it a couple of days have slipped by.
But this morning felt different.
I woke around 6:00am on Friday 13 March and immediately noticed the ship’s movement had changed. The rolling of the open ocean had gone. Curious, I pulled back the curtains… and there it was — a frozen Antarctic wonderland outside the window.
The sea was calm, the air looked biting cold, and snow-covered mountains surrounded us. We were approaching Wiencke Island, heading for Damoy Point.
Before coming here I’d tried to get my bearings on the maps and noticed it sits not too far from Deception Island — which seemed a fittingly dramatic neighbour for such a wild landscape.
The ship was gliding quietly through the icy water, the kind of calm that feels almost surreal after days in the Drake Passage.
I quickly showered and dressed in what I thought would be warm enough clothes.
Turns out… I was wrong.
It is cold out there. Proper Antarctic cold.
From the deck we could already see the tiny Damoy Hut, the historic refuge we’ll visit today. Around it were our first penguins of the morning, along with a few hardy seabirds braving the conditions.
Just to complete the scene, the weather added a little Antarctic drama — light rain started falling as we watched.
As I write this at 7:14am, the captain is carefully manoeuvring the MS Fridtjof Nansen into position so the expedition teams can get us ashore.
Penguins outside.
Snow everywhere.
And we’re about to step onto Antarctica.
Not a bad way to start Friday the 13th.もっと詳しく
Southern most Post office.
3月13日, Goudier Island ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C
This afternoon’s adventure was aboard the zodiacs exploring the waters around Goudier Island in Port Lockroy.
Our zodiac was driven by Dom, an Australian geologist, which meant we had a running commentary about the rocks, glaciers and history as we cruised slowly around the island.
Goudier Island is famous for its small British base known as Base A, built during World War II as part of a secret British operation to maintain a presence in Antarctica. The base later became a scientific station until 1962 and today it has been restored as a museum and the southernmost operational post office in the world. Thousands of postcards are mailed from here every summer by visiting travellers. (But we never went ashore).
The little island is also affectionately known as the “Penguin Post Office”, and it doesn’t take long to see why. Around the buildings and rocky slopes live a lively colony of Gentoo penguins — roughly a thousand birds on an island barely bigger than a football field. 
From the zodiac we watched the penguins waddling around their rookery, completely unconcerned by our presence. Every now and then one would launch itself into the water beside us like a tiny torpedo.
Wildlife wasn’t limited to penguins. We spotted a couple of seals resting on the rocks and even saw a leopard seal cruising the bay, clearly on the hunt — a reminder that life here is beautiful but also brutal.
The scenery was spectacular: scattered icebergs, polished rock islands, and glaciers spilling down from the mountains of Wiencke Island into calm Antarctic water. In the distance our ship, the Fridtjof Nansen, looked almost tiny against the scale of the ice and mountains.
It was only about an hour on the water, but it felt like we had stepped straight into a nature documentary.
Another unforgettable Antarctic experience.もっと詳しく
Stepping onto Antarctica
3月13日 ⋅ ❄️ 0 °C
After waking this morning to the icy landscape around Damoy Point, it wasn’t long before we were rugged up and heading down the gangway of the MS Fridtjof Nansen and into the zodiacs.
The short ride across the calm water of Damoy Bay was pretty special. Snow-covered mountains, glaciers dropping into the sea, and our ship sitting quietly in the bay behind us — one of those moments where you realise just how remote this place really is.
Then came the big moment…
My first steps onto Antarctica.
Well, technically Wiencke Island, but it definitely counts!
The landing area around the beach was a mix of rock, melting snow and ice. Because it’s late in the Antarctic summer there’s quite a bit of melt happening, so there was actually more rock than ice underfoot. And in places the melting snow created some fascinating patterns as the ice slowly retreated around the stones.
One thing you notice very quickly is the yellow-stained snow. When you see it, you know you’re close to a penguin rookery! And a whiff too!
We spotted plenty of Gentoo Penguin around the area. Many were in the middle of their annual moult, which means they looked a bit scruffy and tired as they shed their old feathers before growing new waterproof ones.
We also managed to see a Crabeater Seal and what we were told was a Fur Seal resting nearby — always a thrill to see wildlife that you normally only ever watch in documentaries.
A short walk from the landing site sits the small but historic Damoy Hut. The hut was built in 1976 and used until the mid-1990s as a supply and transit base. In those days, aircraft would land on a snow runway just behind the hut, allowing supplies and people to be moved further down the Antarctic Peninsula when the sea ice made ship access difficult.
Today the hut has been carefully preserved as a historic site, and stepping inside is like walking back into a small slice of Antarctic exploration history — shelves of old supplies, simple equipment and the basics needed to survive in one of the most remote places on Earth.
Standing there, looking out across the bay with penguins wandering past and glaciers towering in the distance, it really sinks in…
We are actually standing on Antarctica.
Even if it’s just a small island off the peninsula — it’s still a pretty awesome feeling.もっと詳しく
Sea kayaking - Pleneau Island.
3月14日, Pléneau Island ⋅ ❄️ 1 °C
Today was the day I had been quietly hoping for since we booked this Antarctic adventure — sea kayaking in Antarctica.
We were anchored near Pleneau Island, an area famous for its scattered icebergs and calm waters sometimes nicknamed “Iceberg Alley.” The temperature hovered around zero degrees, but the conditions were great for paddling.
There was a bit of waiting around while the MS Fridtjof Nansen manoeuvred into position, but by about 1pm we were ready to launch.
The preparation alone felt like an expedition.
First our own thermals, then another thick thermal onesie provided by the expedition team. Over that went the dry suit with tight latex seals at the wrists and neck, followed by booties. Beanie and gloves were our own — which is when I discovered my “waterproof” gloves weren’t quite as waterproof as advertised!
Kim unfortunately wasn’t feeling well enough to paddle today, so I teamed up with Georgia from Canberra, and it turned out we made a pretty good paddling partnership.
For about an hour and a half we glided through a maze of icebergs, some tiny and delicate, others towering and sculpted by wind and sea. The water was suitably calm — almost glassy — which made the experience even more surreal.
All around us were Gentoo penguins porpoising through the water or time wasting on rocks, and every now and then we spotted seals resting on the ice. At times the only sounds were the dip of the paddles, the distant cracking of ice, and the occasional penguin chatter.
It was one of those moments where you stop paddling for a second just to take it all in — kayaking in Antarctica, surrounded by ice and wildlife, something I never imagined I’d actually be doing.
My GoPro battery gave up early thanks to the cold, so unfortunately I didn’t capture as much as I hoped. By the end my fingers were pretty numb too — those gloves again!
But cold hands aside, this was easily one of the highlights of the trip so far.
And Georgia and I?
A pretty solid Antarctic paddling team. 🚣♂️❄️🐧もっと詳しく
Whales, Icebergs and zodiac.
3月15日, Neko Harbor ⋅ ❄️ -1 °C
Today’s adventure was a zodiac whale-watching cruise in Neko Harbour, tucked inside Andvord Bay on the Antarctic Peninsula.
The temperature was a balmy 4°C, but the wind was doing its best to remind us where we were — around 15 knots with gusts up to 45. Luckily our expedition team positioned us in the lee of a massive rocky outcrop, which calmed the water enough for us to explore… well… a little calmer at least!
And what a place to be on the water.
All around us were icebergs of every shape and size, drifting slowly through the bay. Towering dark rock faces rose straight out of the sea, streaked with snow and glacier ice sliding down toward the water. In the distance our ship, Fridtjof Nansen, sat quietly in the bay while the zodiacs zipped around exploring.
But the real stars of the show were the humpback whales.
We saw several surfacing around us, blowing misty plumes into the cold air before disappearing beneath the dark water. At one point we were lucky enough to see a full breach — an enormous humpback launching itself out of the sea. I managed to catch it on video, so unfortunately you’ll have to wait for the YouTube episode to see that moment!
Despite the cold wind whipping around us, the 45 minutes on the water flew by. Sitting low in the zodiac among the icebergs, with whales surfacing nearby and Antarctica’s wild landscape all around us, was simply incredible.
Another fantastic Antarctic experience — and absolutely worth braving the weather.もっと詳しく
Whale Tales and Penguins.
3月16日 ⋅ ☁️ 0 °C
Recess Bay & Portal Point – Charlotte Bay, Antarctic Peninsula
Today was one of those days that reminded us just how wild and unpredictable Antarctica can be.
Our morning adventure started at 10am with a zodiac cruise in Recess Bay, tucked inside Charlotte Bay on the Antarctic Peninsula. The weather was actually quite kind to us by Antarctic standards — around –4°C with light winds and mostly cloud, which made the water surprisingly calm.
And the whales were out.
Lots of them.
We were surrounded by humpback whales, although most of them seemed determined to stay just out of perfect camera range. Our zodiac driver did his best to follow the blows and tail flukes popping up across the bay, while everyone on board was frantically clicking away on SLR cameras, phones and video cameras. Even when the whales stayed distant, watching those huge flukes slowly rise and slip back into the icy water was something pretty special.
After about 45 minutes cruising among ice and whales, we headed back to the ship with cold fingers but big smiles.
⸻
Portal Point – Our Antarctic Peninsula Landing
The second adventure of the day came at 4:45pm, when we made a shore landing at Portal Point.
Portal Point sits on the Reclus Peninsula on the west coast of Graham Land, and it’s one of the few spots where ships can land directly on the Antarctic mainland rather than on nearby.
Once ashore we headed up the snowy slope where the penguins were busy going about their daily routines. Most of the colony here are Gentoo penguins, but we were lucky enough to spot a few Chinstrap penguins mixed in as well — easy to recognise with the thin black line under their chin that looks like a helmet strap.
There were also a couple of Antarctic fur seals lounging nearby, keeping a watchful eye on the tourists wandering through their neighbourhood.
The snow around the penguin colony had plenty of colourful patches — the result of penguin guano and algae — which is something you quickly learn is a very normal Antarctic sight!
⸻
The Historic Hut at Portal Point
One of the interesting features at Portal Point is a small historic refuge hut.
The hut was built by the British Antarctic Survey in 1956 during the International Geophysical Year preparations. It was used as a temporary refuge and equipment store for field parties working in this part of the Antarctic Peninsula. Today the hut is gone, but the remains are a historic site under the Antarctic Treaty.
⸻
A Perfect Antarctic Day
From whales surfacing quietly in the misty waters of Recess Bay, to wandering among penguins on the snowy slopes of Portal Point, today delivered another unforgettable Antarctic experience.
Two zodiac adventures.
Whales, penguins and seals.
And another moment standing on the actual Antarctic continent.
Not a bad way to spend a day at the bottom of the world.もっと詳しく
Active Volcano and a polar plunge.
3月17日 ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C
🌡️ Temperature: Around 0°C
🌋 Inside an active volcano!
Today marked our final shore landing of the Antarctic expedition, and what a place to finish — Teflon Bay on Deception Island.
Deception Island is actually the flooded caldera of an active volcano. Thousands of years ago the volcano collapsed inwards, allowing the sea to rush in and create the horseshoe-shaped harbour now known as Port Foster. Ships enter through a narrow gap called Neptune’s Bellows — an appropriately dramatic name for sailing into the centre of a volcano!
The island has erupted several times in modern history, most recently in 1967, 1969 and 1970, forcing research stations from Chile and the UK to be abandoned. Even today you can see the evidence everywhere: black volcanic ash, pumice, and loose shale slopes that make walking feel like climbing a giant pile of coal dust.
Teflon Bay itself has an unusual name. It was named after the Norwegian sealing vessel Teflon, which operated in these waters during the early 20th-century sealing era around the South Shetland Islands.
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🥾 The Walk
While some people stayed near the beach, I decided to tackle the full loop walk — about 2 km.
It was one of the more challenging walks we’ve done here. The ground was a mix of volcanic ash, loose rock and shale, and several sections were quite steep. Trekking poles definitely helped some, but i didn’t use any! But the reward at the top was spectacular: sweeping views across the volcanic crater lake and out to where our ship, Fridtjof Nansen, sat quietly in the bay.
Standing there it was hard to believe we were inside a volcano in Antarctica.
⸻
🥶 The Polar Plunge
The big event of the morning though was the famous Antarctic Polar Plunge.
I took on the important role of official cameraman.
As the shore team likes to say:
“Women bring the courage… men bring the camera.”
Kim proved the point perfectly. She marched straight into the icy Antarctic water and — incredibly — stayed in for several minutes! Watching from the shore in my warm layers, I can confirm that bravery level was well above my pay grade.
⸻
By the time we headed back to the zodiacs, the weather was calm, the wind light and the volcanic landscape around us looked almost other-worldly — dark ash slopes, pale green water pools and snow-dusted mountains beyond.
A pretty incredible place to finish our last landing on the Antarctic Peninsula.
What an adventure this continent has been. 🌍❄️もっと詳しく
The final Antarctica post.
3月20日, アルゼンチン ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C
And just like that… our Antarctic adventure comes to an end.
From the moment we stepped aboard the MS Fridtjof Nansen with HX Expeditions, we knew we were in for something special — but it still managed to exceed expectations.
This trip has been everything we hoped for and more.
The wildlife alone was worth the journey — whales cruising beside us, occasionally breaching in spectacular fashion, and penguins everywhere… waddling, diving, and completely owning the place.
Then there were the experiences…
🚤 Zodiac adventures weaving through ice-filled bays
🛶 Sea kayaking amongst icebergs (a genuine bucket list moment!)
🏔️ Stepping onto the Antarctic Peninsula itself
🌋 Walking across the volcanic landscape of Deception Island
And those icebergs… no two the same. Some towering, some delicate, all mesmerising.
Life Onboard
Our cabin aboard the Fridtjof Nansen was outstanding — comfortable, quiet, and perfectly positioned to take in the views. A big shoutout to our cabin steward, who kept everything spotless and made the whole experience seamless.
The ship itself was incredibly comfortable, and Level 10 quickly became a favourite spot — a great place to relax with panoramic views of Antarctica sliding by.
The Only Downside…
If there was one area that didn’t quite match the rest of the experience, it was the food.
While there was plenty on offer, it did feel a bit same same day to day — and unfortunately, meals were sometimes overcooked or served not quite hot enough.
And for those who enjoy a quiet beer with a view… the choice on Level 10 was a little limited, and none quite hit the mark for me.
Final Thoughts
But honestly — that’s a very small footnote in what has been an absolutely incredible journey.
The landscapes, the wildlife, the adventures, and the sheer uniqueness of Antarctica make this a once-in-a-lifetime experience that we feel very lucky to have had.
It’s raw. It’s remote. It’s breathtaking.
And it’s something we’ll be talking about for years to come.
Antarctica… you’ve been unforgettable. ❄️🐧🐋もっと詳しく
Helicopter over Ushuaia
3月21日, アルゼンチン ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C
Today was one of those proper bucket list moments … and for anyone who knows me, helicopters have always been right up there!
We flew with Heli Ushuaia, and from start to finish everything was spot on—professional, relaxed, and perfectly timed.
Pick up: 9:40am
Briefing: 10:00am
Rotors spinning: 10:15am
And not long after… we were airborne!
Lifting off from Ushuaia’s old airport, we flew out over the town and wharf (yes, the same one we docked at yesterday), before heading inland toward the dramatic peaks of the Martial Mountains.
From there it just got better and better…
We tracked up the valley toward the famous Cinco Hermanos (Five Brothers) range, with rugged ridgelines and sweeping valleys stretching out below us. Not as much snow this time of year ( March), but still absolutely spectacular.
We also flew past some of the iconic peaks in the area, including:
• Monte Olivia – the sharp, dramatic one you can see from town
• Monte Cinco Hermanos – a series of jagged peaks that really stand out from the air
And just to top it off… we even spotted a condor soaring through the valley. That was a moment!
The highlight though? Landing beside a small ice-fed alpine lake, surrounded by mountains. Out came the glasses… and yes, a celebratory splash of champagne (or sparkling wine… let’s not get too technical 😄).
Watching both helicopters lift off together from that spot was something else—made for some fantastic footage, which will definitely feature in the notsogreywanderers YouTube episode.
An absolutely brilliant experience—one of those “glad we did it” moments because not long after landing, it started raining!
And because no great day is complete without it… we wrapped things up with coffee and cake at the bakery across from the hotel. Perfect finish.
Another day, another adventure… and this one was right up there. 🚁🥂もっと詳しく
A decent feed!
3月22日, アルゼンチン ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C
After what felt like a full day of professional waiting, we’ve made it to El Calafate!
You know the kind of day… waiting for transfers, waiting at the airport, waiting to board… and then watching the classic in-flight entertainment — fellow travellers attempting to squeeze “definitely-not-7kg” suitcases and backpacks into overhead lockers. Always good for a chuckle 😄
By the time we arrived and checked into Sierra Nevada Hotel, energy levels were low and motivation to explore even lower. So, we did what any seasoned travellers would do… we looked next door.
And wow… what a find!
Pura Vida Restaurant — remember that name.
Honestly, this was hands down the best meal we’ve had in weeks.
We kicked things off with bruschetta and a beautiful pumpkin soup — both packed with flavour. Then came the mains… a rich, hearty beef casserole for me and a comforting potato pie that just hit the spot after a long travel day for Kim.
Everything was fresh, full of flavour, and exactly what we didn’t realise we’d been missing.
Sometimes it’s not the big attractions or bucket-list moments… sometimes it’s just a cracking meal, a warm place, and not having to walk too far 😄
El Calafate… you’re off to a strong start.もっと詳しく
Perito Merino Glacier
3月23日, アルゼンチン ⋅ 🌧 4 °C
Today was one of those “this is why we travel” days.
We visited Perito Moreno Glacier in Los Glaciares National Park… and wow, what a sight!
After a short drive from El Calafate, about an hour, we boarded the Safari Náutico boat and headed out across Lago Argentino. The closer we got, the more this wall of ice just grew in front of us. It’s hard to comprehend the scale — up to 50 metres high above the water, and what we were told is around 110 metres deep below the surface. That’s basically a skyscraper of ice!
Danny, our guide (25 years doing this), mentioned the glacier is now receding, something he’s personally witnessed over time and is disappointed about — a bit sobering when you’re standing in front of it.
We were lucky enough to see several calving events — huge chunks of ice breaking away and crashing into the lake. But always that bit late with the camera. The sound? Like a rifle crack… followed by a thunderous splash. Nature putting on a live show. Managed to video a couple which will be in the notsogreywanderers YouTube episode.
Even with grey skies and drizzle, the colours were incredible — deep blues, whites, and that almost glowing turquoise you just don’t see anywhere else. You can only imagine what it would look like in full sunshine.
After the boat, we hit the boardwalks, which give you different angles along the glacier face. More cracking, more falling ice… and plenty of “did you see that?!” moments.
A truly unforgettable experience.
And to top it off… back to Pura Vida for dinner — and yes, it delivered again. Sensational food after a big day out.もっと詳しく
A slow day in El Calafate.
3月24日, アルゼンチン ⋅ 🌬 5 °C
Today was deliberately slow… and honestly, it was just what we needed.
With a big bus journey looming tomorrow, we gave ourselves permission to ease into the day. A late breakfast at Sierra Nevada (which, let’s be honest, isn’t winning any awards… and lukewarm tea is a bit of a crime!) set the tone.
Around 9:30 we were out the door, strolling along the main street of El Calafate. No rush, no plan—just wandering. We zig-zagged across the road like seasoned window shoppers, ducking into whatever caught our eye.
One of the highlights? The unmistakable sight of Patagonian lamb slowly roasting over open fires (indoors!). Proper, traditional asado style—whole lambs stretched out on iron frames, turning gently over glowing coals. You don’t just walk past that… you stop, stare, and take it all in.
We also wandered through Plazoleta Perito Moreno, which turned out to be a quirky little surprise. Life-sized figures, old machinery, and a touch of history. Fun fact for the day: Charles Darwin actually passed through this region during his travels on the Beagle, long before El Calafate became the gateway to glaciers.
Around midday, we did what all good travellers do—found coffee and food. A simple toasted sandwich and a coffee hit the spot.
From there, we made our way down to the lakefront. The wind had a bit of bite (this is Patagonia after all), but the walk was beautiful. Wide open space, big skies, and that iconic El Calafate sign sitting proudly by the water.
Of course, no visit is complete without the obligatory photos—arms outstretched, hats on tight, and smiles despite the chill.
Nothing dramatic today. No big-ticket tours. Just a relaxed wander, a few laughs, and a chance to soak in the atmosphere of this little Patagonian town.
And sometimes… those are the best travel days of all.もっと詳しく
Travel day adventures!
3月25日, チリ ⋅ 🌬 6 °C
Today was one of those “it’ll be easy” travel days… that turned into a bit of an adventure 😄
We were picked up right on time at 7am and dropped at the bus station by 7.15am, feeling quietly confident about our 8am departure with Bus Sur to Puerto Natales.
That confidence didn’t last long…
The Bus Sur kiosk didn’t even open until 7.40am 🤔 and it was trying to deal with 2 bus loads!
And to add a bit of spice—there’s a departure tax that no one had mentioned. Always nice to discover surprises like that just before boarding!
Then came the luggage saga…
After being directed to one bus, by a guy whose only job was to verify paperwork and direct passengers to the right bus, our bags were loaded… only to discover it was the wrong bus (the 8.15 instead of the 8.00). When I tried to retrieve them, the luggage guy was not exactly thrilled with my lack of Spanish.
Let’s just say it got a little “animated” for a moment with his abuse coming thick and fast and refusing to pass over our suitcases!
Eventually, with help from the driver, we got our bags back and onto the correct bus.
We finally rolled out around 8.25am… and right on cue—it started snowing.
Inside the bus, the windows fogged up completely, so the views were more “abstract Patagonia” than scenic. You could feel the bus pushing through water, slush… and possibly ice ❄️ Not exactly relaxing, but certainly memorable.
Border crossings were straightforward:
• Argentina: slow but smooth
• Chile: surprisingly quick and easy
By 2pm we arrived in Puerto Natales, ready for the next leg… only to find our hotel didn’t have our booking 😅
Eventually sorted (seems to be a theme today), and we headed out for a walk to shake off the day.
And then… redemption! 🙌
We found a great little spot for a late lunch/early dinner, complete with a warming, hearty dishes that hit the spot perfectly after a long, cold day.
Highlights of the day:
✔ Survived the bus station chaos
✔ Recovered our luggage (eventually!)
✔ Snowy Patagonian landscapes
✔ Two border crossings ticked off
✔ Made it safely to Puerto Natales
✔ Finished with a great meal.
One of those travel days where nothing quite goes to plan…
…but somehow, it all works out in the end.
And let’s be honest—those are usually the ones you remember the most 😉もっと詳しく
Torres Del Paine - not what i expected!
3月26日, チリ ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C
Up at 6am this morning for a solo adventure—Kim’s unfortunately down with a return of the tummy bug, so it was just me representing the Not So Grey Wanderers today.
Pick-up was a little later than planned (multi-hotel shuffle), and by around 8am we were rolling out of Puerto Natales bound for Torres del Paine National Park. Now… in hindsight, there were clues early on that today might not be the epic 22km Base Towers hike I thought I’d signed up for.
Clue #1: Our guide John didn’t exactly scream “mountain trekker.”
Clue #2: One fellow passenger needed a solid effort just to get up the bus steps.
Still… optimism is a powerful thing!
It wasn’t until our second stop—staring at the Towers from a roadside viewpoint—that I asked the question. John’s reply:
“Ah… no, this is a full-day sightseeing tour from the bus.”
Righto then. Hiking boots… overprepared snacks… litres of water… all for a luxury bus tour with 17 new friends 😂 (who very much all kept to themselves!)
But you know what? It turned into a cracking day.
The weather absolutely turned it on—clear skies, sunshine, and those iconic Torres standing proud all day. We cruised through some of the most spectacular landscapes you’ll ever see—snow-covered peaks, turquoise lakes, waterfalls, and that wild Patagonian terrain that just goes on forever.
Wildlife didn’t disappoint either. Guanacos everywhere, a few Rheas wandering about, and condors—heaps of them—more than I saw at Colca Canyon in Peru.
There were a few memorable stops:
• 1st stop, A very well-stocked souvenir shop (where our guide and driver enjoyed breakfast… while we admired socks!)
• Multiple jaw-dropping viewpoints of the Torres
• Waterfalls and lakes (with stromatolites—yes, ancient life forms!)
• The Milodón Cave, where early humans once lived alongside the now-extinct giant ground sloth
And then there was the wind… classic Patagonia. At one point I was nearly blown off my feet—stay tuned for that moment in the YouTube episode!
Not everything was perfect—the roads were rough, and the “included” boxed lunch was pretty average (definitely not trekker fuel). But honestly, the scenery more than made up for it.
So, not the day I planned… but still a day I won’t forget.
Sometimes travel throws you a curveball—you just have to roll with it.もっと詳しく
Santiago walking tour 1
3月29日, チリ ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
Today we joined a walking tour taking in Santiago, the Funicular, San Cristóbal Hill and the cable car — and it turned out to be a great way to get our bearings of this big, busy city.
We arrived well before time for our 10am start… which, in true travel fashion, became 10.30 thanks to a couple of late arrivals. No stress — just more time to people watch and soak up the atmosphere.
Our guide, Natcha, led us on a relaxed walk from the university area, across the river and into what she called the “party district” — better known as Bellavista. By 11am it was pretty quiet, but you could see the signs… bars, restaurants, street art and souvenir shops everywhere. Apparently it’s a tale of two halves — one lively and well-patrolled, the other a bit more “after dark, proceed with caution!”
We made our way to the base of the funicular, which has been hauling people up San Cristóbal Hill for over 100 years. With our jump-the-queue tickets, we were straight on — always a win.
At the top, it felt like a mini village — cafés, ice cream stands, trinket shops and even a café perched above the workings of the funicular itself. Then came a very “local experience” — trying Chile’s famous dessert drink Mote con Huesillo. Think sweet peach nectar, a whole peach, and husked wheat sitting at the bottom. Sweet, unusual… and yes, glad I tried it!
From there we wandered further uphill, passing the Stations of the Cross, 7 crosses telling a religious story, before reaching the towering statue of the Virgin Mary overlooking the city. A pretty special spot, both spiritually and visually.
And then… the views.
Santiago stretches out endlessly below, framed by the Andes. Unfortunately, there’s a noticeable haze — the mountains trap the smog over the city — but even through that, it’s an impressive sight.
To finish off, we hopped on the cable car for the ride back down — a smooth glide over the treetops with more great views of the city and parklands.
All up, about three hours, a few good stories, a bit of local culture, and some pretty spectacular scenery.
Another great day on the road with Not So Grey Wanderers ✔️もっと詳しく
Santiago walking tour 2
3月30日, チリ ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
We kicked things off at Plaza de Armas, the historic heart of the city. Founded back in 1541, this square has been the centre of everything—politics, religion, and daily life—for centuries.
From there, we wandered through what feels like layers of Santiago—old colonial buildings, European-inspired streets, and modern city life all mixed together.
One of the highlights was seeing the changing of the guard at La Moneda Palace, the presidential palace. Pretty special moment, especially when you realise this building has been at the centre of Chile’s political history for generations. Our guide also gave us a really interesting rundown on Chilean politics—past and present—including the dictatorship era, migration, and how outside influences (European in particular) have shaped the city. It definitely added depth to what we were seeing around us.
We walked through the quirky little districts known as Paris, London and New York—very touristy, but also a great example of how European influence left its mark on Santiago’s architecture and layout.
Along the way, we saw:
• The old financial district and stunning heritage buildings
• Some impressive churches and government buildings
• The beautiful old stock exchange building (Bolsa de Comercio)
And of course… plenty of walking! About 6km all up over 3 hours.
The tour wrapped up at Cerro Santa Lucía, which is actually the hill where Santiago was first founded in 1541.
All up, this was one of those tours that really helps you understand a place—not just see it. History, politics, culture… all brought together in a way that made the city feel alive.
Another great day in Santiago 👌もっと詳しく
And that’s a wrap. South America done.
4月1日, オーストラリア ⋅ 🌙 22 °C
Well… that’s it. Six weeks, countless memories, a few hiccups, and one incredible adventure across South America comes to an end.
Today was flight day out of Santiago, and for once… everything went like clockwork.
Transfer to the airport—smooth.
Check-in—easy.
Passport control—no dramas.
And yes… we even managed to spend the last of the Chilean pesos (priorities! 😜).
We boarded our Qantas flight on time, settled in with a celebratory drink, and thought… this is going too well…
And sure enough…
At 1:10pm, still sitting at the gate, the captain comes on:
“Ladies and gentlemen… we’ve found a fault with an oxygen bottle. We’re looking at about a two-hour delay.”
Ahhh… there it is. Travel wouldn’t be travel without a twist!
Off we all hopped, back into the terminal for a bonus wander around Santiago Airport. Eventually, we got going around 3:30pm—but by then, we already knew…
Perth connection? Gone!!
So instead of a straight run home, we’ve added an unexpected extra chapter:
A night in Sydney at the Pullman Sydney Airport, followed by a 6am flight tomorrow.
Honestly though… after everything this trip has thrown at us, what’s one more little detour?
Final Thoughts
From glaciers to jungles, penguins to pisco sours, buses to boats to planes… it’s been a journey we’ll never forget.
And today?
Just a gentle reminder that even at the very end…
The adventure isn’t quite finished until you’re home.もっと詳しく
Reflections from an armchair at home.
4月3日, オーストラリア ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
And just like that… six weeks, countless kilometres, and a lifetime of memories comes to a close.
What began as a journey of three couples setting off for adventure quickly reminded us that travel doesn’t always go to plan. Losing Linda and Milenko from the trip in Buenos Aires was tough, and it changed the dynamic of our group. But as travellers do, we adapted, carried on, and made the most of every moment—always with her in mind.
The Organisation – Trusting the Process
A big tick must go to MyHoliday2, who put together a complex itinerary spanning multiple countries, climates, and transport modes. There were moments along the way where we didn’t have all the details at our fingertips—and yes, that can feel a little unsettling when you’re halfway across the world—but in hindsight, everything fell into place exactly as it should. Transfers arrived, tours happened, flights connected (well… mostly 😜), and the overall structure of the trip worked seamlessly.
The People – The Real Highlight
What stands out is the people.
Our guides were consistently excellent, but special mentions must go to Stephanie and Carlos in Peru—both incredibly knowledgeable, engaging, and clearly passionate about their country. They didn’t just show us places; they brought history and culture to life.
And beyond the guides, the warmth of South Americans was something we’ll never forget. Whether it was in bustling cities or remote regions, we were always met with friendliness and patience. Despite our very limited Spanish, the effort to communicate was always appreciated—and I must say, I thoroughly enjoyed giving it a go!
(With one small exception… the luggage bloke in El Calafate 😄)
Getting Around – Surprisingly Smooth
Considering the distances covered, the variety of transport was impressive—planes, buses, boats, zodiacs… even helicopters!
The bus journeys in particular stood out. Long distances, yes, but safe, comfortable, and driven by highly skilled drivers who made some pretty challenging roads look easy.
The Scenery – Simply… WOW
It’s almost impossible to summarise the landscapes we experienced.
From glaciers and mountains to deserts and cities… every destination seemed to outdo the last. You could fill pages (and we probably will) and many notsogreywanderers YouTube episodes just listing highlights, but one word captures it best:
AWESOME.
Antarctica – The Bucket List Within the Bucket List
Antarctica was something else entirely.
A place that feels untouched, raw, and incredibly special. The wildlife, the ice, the silence… it’s hard to describe unless you’ve been there. It’s safe to say it exceeded expectations—and that’s saying something.
Our time onboard the HX expedition ship was comfortable and well run. The cabin, crew, and expedition experiences were all top-notch. If there was one downside, it was the food—which, compared to everything else onboard, didn’t quite hit the same high standard.
But that’s a small footnote in what was otherwise an extraordinary experience.
In fact… we’re already talking about going back.
The Stays – The Good, The… Interesting
Accommodation across the trip was a mixed bag. Some places were excellent—comfortable, well-located, and memorable for all the right reasons. Others… well… let’s just say they added a bit of character to the trip!
But that’s part of travel, isn’t it? If everything was perfect, you wouldn’t have the stories.
Final Thoughts
This journey was about more than ticking destinations off a list.
It was about:
• embracing the unexpected
• appreciating different cultures
• stepping outside our comfort zones
• and sharing experiences with great people
South America challenged us, surprised us, and rewarded us in equal measure.
And as all good trips should…
it’s left us wanting more.
Until the next adventure…もっと詳しく





























































































































































































































































































































































旅行者Gorgeous from all views