U.K. - Iceland - Israel

April - Juni 2023
  • Mark Dennes
  • Loriene Dennes
7 weeks exploring 3 very different locations. Brand new experiences mixed with revisiting some familiar ones.
In our usual style, it’s a packed itinerary . . . .
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  • Mark Dennes
  • Loriene Dennes

Daftar negara

  • Palestina Palestina
  • Israel Israel
  • Islandia Islandia
  • Irlandia Utara Irlandia Utara
  • Skotlandia Skotlandia
  • Wales Wales
  • Inggris Inggris
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  • 'Surfing' Hadrian's wall which extends well beyond the treeline in the distance
    Pointing (with difficulty after yestrday's exertions) at Hadrian's wall...and that was it😳A press article and photo from 1988From the February, 1989 Christadelphian magazineThe promise was for 'breathtaking beaches' on this section of the Scottish coast.... you be the judgeThis one at Sandhills Bay was definitley an improvementFrom our apartment tonight - the ferry in the distance (near the clock) is our 'ride' tomorrow.At 9pm tonightOur last view of a lake in the Lake District this morning

    Bonnie Blue Skies in Scotland

    22 Mei 2023, Skotlandia ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    Today was mainly a day of travel to get us in a position to catch the ferry from Cairnryan in Scotland to Belfast in Northern Ireland first thing tomorrow morning.

    We left Keswick with a high overcast at about 8.45 this morning after an alarm-free night’s sleep to get us to Birdoswald Roman Fort / Hadrian’s wall right at 10am for their opening time. As always, we took the slightly longer scenic route around the western side of Bassenthwaite Lake - our last lake for the district - before heading north east.

    This fortress and section of Hadrian’s wall is the best preserved and longest intact section of the wall that spans the entire island in an east / west direction (approx. 135km in length) and marked the northern border of the Roman Empire in this area.
    We were fortunate to time it well so as to join a free guided tour by one of the volunteers who took us for a walk around the site and our guide explained a lot of detail that would not be easily grasped otherwise.
    Also of note is that while Hadrian was busy shoring up the strength of the Roman Empire in Britain, he also played a very significant role in scattering the Jews from the land of Israel. His edict in 135 A.D. forbad Jews to live in and around Jerusalem and he renamed Jerusalem Aeolia Capitolina in a further effort to erase Jewish links to the country and city. Interestingly, Hadrian’s edict was not rescinded until 1856 and this was one of the small steps that paved the way for the Jews to return to their homeland.

    While waiting for the tour to start we got chatting to a father and son who were walking the entire length of the wall. They were 3 days in, with probably 3 to go and were carrying very heavy packs with all their gear. The father in particular was struggling with sore feet and they were lamenting the fact that they should have more closely followed the age-old rule of ANY traveller - take half the clothes and twice the money to what you’ll think you need.

    We headed north for the Scottish border which was a bit of an anticlimax. Apart from the obligatory ‘Welcome to Scotland’ road sign, there was nothing else to really signify the fact we had passed from one country to another. No river or lake or significant natural feature nor any observable man-made structure. Even the surrounding terrain looked identical. Perhaps the only distinguishing feature was that once we left the main motorway, the secondary roads were in noticeably poorer condition in Scotland than in England.
    And the skies started clearing almost immediately once we crossed the border!

    Our first stop was at Lockerbie which was not directly enroute to Stranraer which was our final destination.
    Both Loriene and I were interested to visit the memorial park in Lockerbie which was the site of the UK’s worst ever aviation disaster in December 1988 when Pan Am Flight 103 enroute from Frankfurt to Detroit was blown up by a Libyan terrorist bomb (hidden in a cassette recorder on unaccompanied baggage - an act which changed aviation security forever).
    The aircraft exploded into thousands of pieces directly overhead Lockerbie, and a large section of the wings and fuel tanks crashed into a suburban street killing 11 people on the ground, as well as all 243 passengers and 16 crew. It was an act of terrorism that shocked the world and I’m sure I speak on behalf of all those who remember it in saying that it deeply affected us all.
    Our Belinda was just 6 months old at the time and as new parents we keenly felt the distress of the situation. Today we had a quiet moment at the memorial park situated on the site of where lives were lost and the houses were destroyed by the falling debris, reflecting on the need for our Lord’s return to eliminate the evil in the world.
    Sadly a young American Christadelphian brother was onboard that ill-fated flight.

    After this sobering time, we continued on further into Lockerbie to re-provison and then (again) took the more scenic and circuitous route to Stranraer. We headed south to intercept the coastline.
    Given the fact we were making realtively good time, while Loriene was shopping at Aldi I consulted a website which assured me that the coastal towns in the southwest were stunningly scenic. Based on this, we detoured via Southerness Lighthouse, Sandyhills Bay and Auchencairn Bay which, to be honest, were relatively unremarkable.

    Now it was getting late so we bee-lined it for Stranraer and got to our excellent self contained apartment just over an hour later. From our living room window we can see the ferry terminal across the bay where we need to check in at 6.30am tomorrow for our journey to Belfast.
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  • The first class experience from Scotland to Belfast.
    Texting me: "I'm expecting this on all our subsequent travel legs"The Titanic memorial listing all the names of those who perishedThankfully, the name 'Sulley' doesn't appear hereThe building is huge - the size of Titanic's hull & shaped like the 'White Star Line' emblemSome of the Titanic's fineryThis luxury tender transported many passengers onto the TitanicThe Fist Class casual dining area on the NomadicSlipway No. 3 from where the Titanic was launched - Loss standing on the 2nd funnel positionShowing the position of the inadequate number of lifeboatsOverlooking Belfast from 'The Dome'Prince Albert memorial clock, which leans about 1.5m off verticalDuring 'The Troubles' this hotel was bombed (and rebuilt/ repaired) 33 timesA very thick wall built around the Law Courts to protect it from car bombings during 'The Troubles'The republicans supported the PalestiniansWhile just around the corner, the Unionists supported the Israelis

    Belfast ‘troubles’ averted

    23 Mei 2023, Irlandia Utara ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    It was an early start this morning, with the alarm sounding at 5.30am- although as often happens (or it does to me at least) when you know you have a deadline to meet, I woke just a couple of minutes before it sounded thinking ‘Is it time to get up?’

    We got to the ferry check-in with a few minutes to spare and eventually drove the car deep into the bowels of the boat, parking alongside semi trailers and vehicles of all descriptions.
    We exited the car and started heading upstairs to the seating areas.
    Once again, I had been slightly neglectful in providing Loriene with full details of our journey, meaning that I had only booked ‘cattle class’ tickets to cross the Irish Sea and hadn’t disclosed this fact.

    However, in full expectation of better arrangements than that, Loss keeps climbing the stairs beyond cattle class, beyond business class, up to the top level ‘first class’ lounge.
    Before she speaks with the concierge guarding the door, I quietly manage to steer her away before any undue embarrassment occurs.
    As I coax her down a few staircases back towards steerage class, I have no choice but to explain the situation to her. She puts on a brave face.

    I speak to a lady at the reception desk who happens to be right near us at this awkward moment, explaining that I have been stingy with our tickets and ask her for guidance as to where we should be sitting. She politely tells us where the allocated seating areas are for cheapskates like me.

    There is an uncomfortable silence as we trudge off toward the doorway marked ‘Boiler Room’, with Loss still maintaining the bravest face she can.
    It could be a long, long sea voyage to Belfast.

    Then quite unexpectedly the lovely Scottish lady comes running after us, discretely presses an access code pass into Loriene’s hand and says to her quietly ‘Here you go- I think you look like you should be in first class’.
    I thank her profusely for saving my life and we climb the stairs again to the top deck….
    A pleasant voyage was then had by all.

    On arriving in Belfast and after eventually prising Loss out of her seat, we drove straight from the ferry into the CBD of Belfast and within 20 minutes of departing the ferry we were parked and walking to board our ‘Hop on / off’ bus from the city centre. We did a full lap of the route, listening as carefully as possible to the broad-accented Irish commentary before getting off.

    We then walked to the Titanic memorial, which lists the name of every individual who perished on that ill-fated maiden voyage. We also looked up the Christadelphian Magazine for details about Bro and Sis Henry Sulley, who were travelling on another vessel in the Atlantic at the same time the Titanic sunk. Here is a little snippet of his account:

    “Sister Sulley had been unwell for three weeks before we left England. Upon advice of the doctor the journey was delayed a week, and I began to fear I might require to take the journey alone (not to be thought of unless imperatively impelled). Towards the end of the week the prospect brightened. The question then arose, shall we delay our journey four more days, and take passage on what proved to be the ill-fated Titanic? Sister Sulley said “No; we have delayed a week, I think we ought to start as soon as possible.” So, the doctor having given permission to make the journey, providing sister S. kept in her room till the day she travelled to Liverpool, we took not the ill-fated Titanic, but the safer, and, I think, the more carefully managed Cunarder called Carmania, whose commander, under the hand of God, conveyed us safely to our destination.”

    Next we moved on to Belfast’s premier attraction which is the relatively new, multi million pound Titanic Exhibition. It has everything in it to do with things Titanic but as we had seen quite a few of these in recent years (including in Sydney) we skipped the exorbitant entry fee and just toured the ‘Nomadic’ which was the tender for the Titanic. The Nomadic delivered passengers from the White Star Line’s French port onboard the Titanic before it then set sail for New York.

    We then did another lap on The Big Red Bus, understanding much better the second time around the various sections of the city, the incredibly violent past from 1969 until 1998 and the political and religious divisions that caused such harm and bloodshed for so many years.
    A key issue was the status of Northern Ireland. Unionists and loyalists, who for historical reasons were mostly Ulster Protestants, wanted Northern Ireland to remain within the United Kingdom. Irish nationalists and republicans, who were mostly Irish Catholics, wanted Northern Ireland to leave the United Kingdom and join a united Ireland. We saw absolute evidence of this division as we drove around.

    After finishing our second lap of the city, we sought out a few points of interest on foot, returned to the car then made the short drive to our apartment for the evening. Loriene has managed to whip up an amazing roast chicken dinner (using some more ingredients brought from home - but not the chicken, thankfully) in less time than it has taken to type this out.
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  • A bad hair day on the Antrim Coast

    24 Mei 2023, Irlandia Utara ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    We bid farewell to Belfast’s peak hour traffic this morning and wound our way up to ‘Napoleon’s nose’, which is on the most prominent hill that overlooks Belfast. The morning started a little bleak, but the strenuous climb from the carpark (an hour round trip) got the blood pumping as there was quite a bit of vertical distance to gain in order to reach the summit.
    In addition to being a bit hazy it was quite cold and windy on top, but it was good to see Belfast from this perspective and with the help of our binoculars, pick out some of the landmarks we had visited during the last 24 hours.

    Next we started heading north along the Antrim coastline and stopped in at Carrickfergus Castle for a brief inspection. This region is quite historic and many battles have been fought nearby.

    We continued our journey northward to the curiously named ‘Gobbins’ area. This is quite a spectacular part of the coastline with numerous coves, caves and headlands. After calling in to the information centre to make sure we found the intended path (attractions are quite poorly signposted here), we again undertook a fairly challenging walk along the cliff top path, enjoying the views both north and south. Again, there was quite a vertical component to the 45 minute round trip.

    From The Gobbins, we tracked inland somewhat for our next feature to tackle - Slemish mountain. I had seen good reviews on Trip Advisor about the views from the top which is why I put it on the itinerary. As it turns out, Slemish mountain is on the itinerary for many Catholics for an annual pilgrimage on St. Patricks Day, as this is where he spent 6 years of his life.
    This extinct volcanic ‘plug’ turned out to be a very steep climb and scramble but yielded the promised views in every direction from the summit. Yet again, the round trip was about an hour up and down a very rough, ill-defined path (which we lost a couple of times).

    I promised Loss that this was our last climb for the day, but I was a little premature in making that promise, as yet another climb was required when we reached Torr Head. By now the day was clearing with bursts of sunshine and after a shorter, sharper climb we were able to clearly see Scotland - the famed Mull of Kintyre across the water, as well as dramatic Irish coastline in front of us. Torr Head and the Mull of Kintyre are the points at which Ireland and Scotland are in closest proximity.

    We had intended to do the entire Torr Head coastal scenic drive, but this was cut short by virtue of roadworks that had closed a section of the road. Nevertheless the section we were able to cover was stunning.

    Enroute to Ballycastle we were held up for about 15 minutes due to a truck that had gone into a roadside ditch and the tow trucks had blocked the road completely. Traffic was backing up in both directions and we weren’t sure whether to turn around and try to find a different route, but eventually the Towtruck driver came over to assure me it was about to clear. Once he heard our Australian accents, then all he wanted to do was talk about Australia. Now the traffic was flowing again, but we were not moving because he wouldn’t stop chatting! Eventually we extricated ourselves from his questions and we continued on our way.
    We had one more item of interest to see before calling it a day - the so called ‘Dark Hedges’ but decided we should check in to our B&B first as it was now around 5.30pm.
    When arriving at the designated house, the host had no booking for us in her system even though my Booking.com reservation all looked to be in order. This was our first real glitch and as I was mentally assessing our options, our ‘host’ (who couldn’t host us) made a phone call to a friend of hers a couple of streets away who DID have a B&B room available.

    Once we got that all sorted, we thought we should organise some dinner arrangements. At our host’s suggestion, we headed down to the ANZAC Bar and restaurant (which even had a little boomerang as part of its logo😅). Of course I had to ask the maître d about the reason for the name. Apparently the founder of the establishment was an Irishman who had fought with the ANZACS at Gallipoli in WW1.

    The meal was substantial and excellent, so fortified with this we headed off for our last bit of sightseeing which was about a 15 minute drive up the hill from Ballycastle. The so called ‘Dark Hedges is an avenue of Beech trees planted in the the 1700’s by a family who wanted a dramatic approach to their Georgian mansion. They are indeed an impressive sight with their branches hanging right out across the road in a very unusual way.
    It is one of the most popular natural-feature tourist attractions in Northern Ireland and as a result during ‘normal’ tourist hours, you must park in a very large carpark and walk some distance to the avenue of trees. However, as it was now 7.30pm and all the ‘normal’ tourists had disappeared long ago, we were able to just slowly drive up and down the road unimpeded, taking the required photos without having to get out of the car at all.

    We got back to our accommodation at around 8pm - exactly 12 hours after we started out this morning. Although the 14km distance walked was not our longest, I think our 115 floors climbed today could be our most so far.
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  • The Causeway Coastal Route

    25 Mei 2023, Irlandia Utara ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Today turned out to be our most beautiful weather so far in Ireland and we were able to make the most of it. Three days in a row with no rain - the locals are declaring this as some sort of record!

    Our first destination was the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge which was first built in 1775 by the salmon fishermen to access the little island off the coast where they lived and caught their fish.
    The original single rope has been replaced and maintained by the National Parks, and you need to book a time for your crossing. I had done this some months ago and booked the first slot of the day at 9am which was great as there were very few others there and no coach loads of tourists had arrived yet. And it was a beautiful, calm morning.
    The coastal scenery was spectacular and the rope bridge crossing was enjoyable - it really gets a bounce up as you walk. However, we did notice that there were a few others who had acrophobia and couldn’t bring themselves to cross the bridge, even though they had paid for it all.
    Next stop along the Coastal Causeway route was Ballintoy Harbour - a beautiful little village set around a tiny harbour. For the first time on this trip we saw significant ocean swells rolling in which were crashing against the basalt rocks in a spectacular way.

    After strolling around the harbour and foreshore area for a while, we headed off a few more km to the west for the Giant’s Causeway which is an amazing, naturally occurring cluster of hexagonal basalt columns formed from the cooling and shrinking lava flows. It is a really unusual natural phenomenon, attracts vast numbers of visitors and has been classified by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.
    A brisk 10 minute walk from the visitor car park to the actual site on a bright, clear day was great - but the sight of hundreds of other tourists was not so welcome. This is the busiest (natural beauty) place we have visited in Ireland so far.
    We also discovered that it wasn’t necessary to again pay an exorbitant entrance fee and parking through the National Parks visitor centre. The Hotel right next to the visitor centre offered parking for £10, free access to the site AND £10 off any food or drink you ordered on return. To me, that was a ‘no-brainer’ and we certainly availed ourselves of this option.

    Next up were a few interesting viewpoints further along the coast - the Maghearacross lookout; the Portrush and Whiterocks beach (which is the seaside holiday town of this part of Northern Ireland); We drove onto the beach and did a little 4WDing in our 2WD vehicle on the sand; the Gotmore scenic viewpoint - and then a direct drive into Londonderry - (or Derry, depending on your point of view).

    After briefly checking in to our accommodation we headed into town to spend a little while ‘experiencing’ Londonderry. The evidence of the divisive, violent past is everywhere around you and is placarded for all to see. We then did a full circumnavigation of the old city walls (built in the early 1600’s) before heading back to our accommodation via Lidl for some groceries.
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  • Dinner
    Sunny skies on the Scottish coast enroute to GlasgowLoriene and Zoe on their rooftop'You'll look at photos of the grandchildren whether you want to or not!'

    Derry Drive, Belfast Boat, Go2Glasgow

    26 Mei 2023, Irlandia Utara ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Pretty much just a day of transport and transiting, our goal was to get to Glasgow.

    This entailed a 1.5hr direct drive from Londonderry to Belfast, boarding our slightly delayed ferry back to Cairnryan and then making the 2 hour drive to Glasgow.
    We bid farewell to ‘the land of 40 shades of green’ under blue skies and mild temperatures without having experienced a drop of rain.
    Unfortunately, we couldn’t quite wrangle our way into first class on the very full ferry - business class was the best we could manage this time.

    Having suffered the deprivations of the business class experience onboard, the drive from Cairnryan to Glasgow was quite enjoyable along a fairly scenic coastal route for the first part.

    Some few years ago, we had employed a lovely young Scottish dental assistant by the name of Zoe who had worked for us for 2 years before returning to Scotland with her partner Sean. I had lost contact with Zoe, but with the help of Steph Leckey, we were able to make contact a few days ago and arranged to meet them at their apartment in Glasgow for dinner this evening.

    After driving directly to our rented apartment - of course located on the top floor (again) with no lift - we settled in then headed off to the Southside of Glasgow - about a 12 minute drive away.

    It was delightful to see Zoe and Sean again after not having seen them for such a long time. Sean was cooking up an amazing dinner, Zoe showed us around their apartment which they are part way through renovating (including their roof top space) and we had an excellent meal with lots of conversation stretching late into the evening. They plan to be visiting Sydney in late November for a friend’s wedding in the Blue Mountains and we have made arrangements for them to come and stay with us for a few days either side of that date.
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  • On the bonnie, bonnie banks of Loch Lomond - Ben Lomond in cloud
    Loch Long and the township of ArrocharThe 'Rest And Be Thankful' PassKilchurn Castle on Loch AweOn the Big Red Bus.... again!The Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum - named after Lord KelvinGlasgow's Opera House? The SEC - Scottish Events Campus - nicknamed the ArmadilloThe Cloisters, Glasgow UniversityMain Entrance, Glasgow UniversityAshton Place restaurant strip35 minutes after walking through the door- she's a wonder woman!

    Lots of Lochs then Glasgow Gallivanting

    27 Mei 2023, Skotlandia ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Zoe and Sean had warned us last night that this could be a busy weekend as it was a public holiday on Monday, so we decided to head off earlyish (8.15am) for our tour of the Lochs and southern highlands north and west of Glasgow.
    The closest (and largest) of the lochs is Loch Lomond, and we followed this up it’s western flank for quite a way before branching off to follow a valley up to the ‘Rest and Be Thankful’ pass. We stopped at the viewing area for some morning tea before heading on past some other lochs and quaint towns such as Inverary.
    We arrived at the Chrauchan power station on the banks of Loch Awe with the intention of doing a tour of this rather amazing piece of engineering (a hydro power station 1 km underground).
    We, along with a number of other potential tourists were disappointed to see the sign at their closed facility indicating that tours during their high, summer season run every day- except on weekends!
    So we sat in the carpark for a few minutes and watched a YouTube video on the power station instead.
    The weather was exactly what you might expect of the Scottish highlands- cool, a little breezy, some showers and mist, not the fine weather that the forecast had promised.
    We circled back towards Glasgow via a different route, stopping at Kilchurn castle and then back down the full length of Loch Lomond.
    We found a nice spot by the edge of the lake to sit in the car and have some lunch.
    Here I also took the opportunity to serenade Loss with a solo rendition of the old Scottish song ‘On the Bonnie, Bonnie Banks of Loch Lomond’, which she seemed to enjoy immensely (even though she claims she had never heard the song before).
    We could see the ‘steep sides of Ben Lomond’ and the highland hills bathed ‘in soft purple hue’ and as my dulcet tones rang out across the loch, my only disappointment was that it wasn’t recorded.
    Apart from my splendid singing, it was also a beautiful spot to have lunch.

    Fortunately we were on our way back to Glasgow and the traffic was quite light in our direction, but as predicted it was heavy heading the other way.
    We saw a number of hardy Scottish souls camping by the banks of the lochs - even a few swimming in the rather frigid water. Apart from a few kayaks and SUP’s, there was very minimal boating activity observed.
    We got back to Glasgow at about 3.30pm. In all, we passed by at least half a dozen different lochs of varying shapes and sizes.

    Fortified by a coffee at the apartment, we then set off at 4pm to explore Glasgow itself. Cars are very much discouraged within the city precincts, so we decided to do another hop on / off bus tour which worked out well.
    We walked 20 minutes to the nearest pickup point, did a full lap (and a half) of the city to eventually alight at the University. There were a number of points of interest including a big celebration by Celtic soccer fans with noise, colour (green and white), flares and police out in force.
    We walked into the university and found the quite famous cloisters area, headed out to the front of the University which gave a nice view down over the city, and then armed with some extra ‘local info’ from Zoe also found Ashton Place which is a great little restaurant precinct not far away. We probably would have stayed there for dinner but it was getting quite cold out now (although most of the Scots were in short and T-shirts) and we had already bought groceries earlier, so we walked the 25 minutes back to the warmth of our unit - arriving right at 7pm - to enjoy dinner at home and an early night, hopefully.
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  • A day of many wee parts

    28 Mei 2023, Skotlandia ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Today had so many different elements I couldn’t settle on what to name it.

    We awoke at 6.50am to a beautiful, cloudless morning. Breakfast, pack up and off with a deadline of 11am to attend the Sterling meeting.
    As it happened, there were two points of interest to briefly visit on our way, and very close to Sterling which lies north east of Glasgow and North West of Edinburgh which was our final destination for today.

    We drove in the direction of Sterling and called in first to see an impressive sculpture by the name of The Kelpies. The Kelpies are not sheep dogs but rather horses - in Scottish mythology they were a beast that possessed the power of 100 normal horses. However, the horses’ heads here standing over 30m tall are based on real life Clydesdale horses which were transformative in the history of this part of Scotland’s landscape and industry in bygone days.
    After a short look around The Kelpies, we headed off about 15 minutes down the road to The Falkirk Wheel which is a particularly impressive piece of Scottish engineering.
    This amazing device was invented to replace about 11 locks in the canal system to allow long river boats to move between the significant difference in height of the canals in this part of Scotland. Nothing happens quickly here, but it all happens with great precision.

    Of course, the first activation of the Falkirk Wheel doesn’t happen until 10am, so we watched this first transfer of boats and then quickly headed off to Sterling Ecclesia, arriving at 10.45am.
    We received a warm welcome and were pleased to meet some of Wendy and Trevor Maher’s children and grandchildren. (Many would remember Wendy and the late Bro. Trevor from Rathmines days.) Loriene had been in contact with Wendy who has remarried, and sadly for us David and Wendy were ‘down south’ visiting David’s family so we didn’t get to see them.
    However, it was lovely to share a ‘Meal A Day’ lunch with the members after the meeting and to become acquainted with many other members of this lovely meeting in addition to the Mahers.
    For those who are keen followers of the Royal family and the recent coronation, you may note that Wendy and Trevor’s grandson Luke (who was chairman for the meeting today) featured prominently in one aspect of the coronation - see the accompanying photos.

    While sitting at lunch with Shaun Maher, he was able to give me some tips on the most scenic drive to Edinburgh via St. Andrews which we duly entered into Waze. We bid a fond farewell to our new friends and arrived in St. Andrews with the weather still being picture perfect. I was able to get to play a little golf on the Old Course (again see photos and video for proof for the doubting Thomases out there).
    After putting out on the 18th hole, we briefly visited the vast beach area and then developed car troubles on starting up.
    Multiple orange warning lights came on and the engine was running roughly. Although none of the lights indicated low oil levels, the dipstick wasn’t registering any oil at all 😳. It took 3 visits to service stations before a litre of oil could be purchased and thankfully the rough running and warning lights all disappeared once having provided the little Fiat with this magic elixir.

    We then continued on our circuitous coastal route towards Edinburgh (including diverting off to view the Forth bridges from below before crossing over) and the scenery was worth the extra travel time.
    We finally made it into Edinburgh and to our accommodation right on 7pm and as I am typing this last sentence, the ‘wonder woman’ is placing another beautifully prepared meal on the table!
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  • ‘Close’ encounters of the Royal kind

    29 Mei 2023, Skotlandia ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    We woke to a picture perfect Edinburgh day. Mild, sunny, cloudless and calm.

    I had been very neglectful in not having pre-booked the ‘must-see’ attraction in this city, being Edinburgh Castle. I’m not sure how I’d overlooked this, but I had, and now I was kicking myself.
    Last night when trying to book some tickets online I discovered that all tickets were sold out for today for all time slots. Even when I tried some of the slightly risky third-party resellers, nothing was available for today.
    Never-the-less we thought we’d try our luck by fronting up to the Castle and seeing if there were any ‘walk up’ tickets available . If we came up with a blank, then a tour through Holyrood Palace would have to suffice as a consolation prize instead.
    We left the apartment early (is there any other time to leave?), and followed some great advice from a local lady at the bus stop to buy an all-day bus ticket. This got us down to Edinburgh Castle just after opening time and after walking around the perimeter past the sign that said ‘Edinburgh Castle Tickets Sold Out’ we approached a young gentleman on duty at the entrance.
    “We’re wondering if there might be any walk-up tickets available today?”
    ‘No sir, I’m sorry, all the tickets are sold out for today’ as he gestures toward the fairly obvious sign saying exactly the same thing.
    “So there’s nothing available at all? We are flexible - we could come back any time . . . “
    ‘It’s a very popular attraction, sir - we get upwards of 7,000 visitors per day and unfortunately all the tickets are sold out for today’

    It was time to use the last arrow in the quiver but delivered, I think, in good humour.
    “But we’ve travelled all the way from Australia just to see Edinburgh Castle and you’re telling me we’re going to miss out?”
    The young man seemed to appreciate our sense of humour and with a smile and a glint in his eye he leaned in and said
    ‘Well, there is ONE possible way - I can’t promise anything - but if you walk down the hill there to where the Hop On buses stop, you MAY be able to buy a ticket through them combined with their bus tour as they often buy blocks of Castle tickets to on-sell to their customers ’

    We didn’t want the Hop on bus tour today, and it would be an expensive way to get a ticket to Edinburgh Castle but . . .

    We thanked the young chap at Windsor Castle and then pushed through the rapidly building crowds heading smugly up to the Castle with their pre paid tickets. We spotted a Red bus, dashed across and spoke to the very good-humoured Scottish ticket seller by the bus.
    Slightly breathless, we ask “We are wondering if we buy one of your bus tickets is it possible to get one that gives us access to Edinburgh Castle?”
    ‘Yes, we have Edinburgh Castle tickets - how many would you like? Do you want it combined with a bus ticket, or just the Castle ticket on its own?
    “Um, just the Castle Ticket would be great thanks - and what time would that time slot be?” I ask as I hand him my credit card to process the transaction, expecting that the time available will be at a most inconvenient time later in the day.
    ‘Here you go sir, 2 tickets for entry for 15 minutes ago, but they give you a half hour window so if you rush back up you’ll just make it’.

    Well, we thanked our new Scottish friend very much, rushed back up the hill and gained access with a matter of minutes to spare.
    We caught our breath, picked up our audio guide and worked our way around all of the significant sites on this very impressive (and steep) attraction. Of particular interest was to see that the Stone of Destiny had made its way safely back into the Crown Jewels room under the safe guidance of Luke Maher and his fellow workers :)
    A 3D printed model sits where it was carried from The Great Hall - see yesterday’s pictures of Luke Maher standing beside it in that very spot.

    We left Edinburgh Castle and started our way down ‘The Royal Mile’ after a quick coffee stop before we proceeded any further. I had downloaded an Audio guide for a tour of the ‘Closes’ that branch off this famous street which runs for just over a mile from Edinburgh Castle to Holyrood Palace (which is the King’s official residence when visiting Edinburgh).

    The ‘Closes’ are little alleyways that run off the Main Street and is where much of the interesting history of the city took place. The audio guide was excellent and gave us step by step instructions, information and history for approximately a dozen of these ‘Closes’ as we made our way down the Royal Mile to Holyrood Palace and snapped a couple of quick photos through the gates.

    It was now time to head to our 3rd major point of interest for the day - the Royal Yacht Britannia, which was Queen Elizabeth’s favourite place since she named and launched it in 1953 and for which she shed a tear when it was decommissioned in 1997. The Brittania is now berthed permanently here in Edinburgh and is a major tourist attraction.
    Another bus trip, a very brief lunch stop and we were onboard the Brittania where access was given to almost every part of the ship.
    With the help of the detailed audio guide provided, seeing the Queen’s office, bedroom and relaxation areas was very interesting as well as all the areas that were used by other royal members and the crew.
    It was a special treat to even have afternoon tea onboard and think about the procession of world leaders who had been hosted and entertained in the very same area and other significant events that had taken place onboard.

    Two more bus legs back to our apartment, a quick visit to Aldi for some groceries for dinner and we were able to get back in the door before 7pm tonight…. just.

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  • From the Harbour Bridge to Botany Bay

    30 Mei 2023, Inggris ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    We started off in shorts and T-shirts in Edinburgh and finished rugged up against an arctic chill in Whitby.

    Today entailed a fair bit of driving as we commenced our home run towards London.

    We left Edinburgh on a beautiful morning again, checking out of our apartment and heading just around the corner to pick up some fresh fruit. Thankfully we did, as it was at that moment we realised we had left our entire bag of food and kitchen accoutrements back in the apartment. A quick retrace to collect the abandoned bag then off for a fairly long drive firstly to Newcastle on Tyne. Enroute we crossed the border back into England at Coldstream having had a wonderful time in Scotland over the past few days.

    The only point of interest in Newcastle on Tyne was to observe the bridge which crosses the river Tyne (obviously). It is essentially a mini Sydney Harbour Bridge, having been built at the same time and as a prototype for the much more ambitious Sydney version.
    After having driven over it and then turned off to find a vantage point, we noted that the Newcastle version’s proportions looked a little more ‘squashed’, and the upkeep was somewhat lacking.
    We found a spot to pull over a little further along for some lunch, then continued on our way south to Whitby.
    I didn’t really know what to expect in Whitby, apart from the fact that it was where Capt. James Cook did much of his maritime training before then joining the Royal Navy and moving to London. When we arrived, we found the town absolutely packed with people. Alas, England’s school holidays have just started!

    Before heading to our accommodation, we found some parking near the James Cook museum and did a tour. It turns out that the museum is housed within the very house that James Cook lived in during his early maritime training here and he would have spent about 9 years living in the attic area of the house. The displays and records were very interesting and we noted that although there was obviously material on his 1770 voyage to the east coast of Australia, they took a much more ‘global’ view of Cook’s voyages and achievements than the ‘Australia-centric’ material we are used to seeing. The Endeavour on which he sailed was also designed and built here in Whitby.
    Having finished our tour of the museum, we found our accommodation just a 100m away up one of the narrow, cobblestone streets of the old city area. No parking was to be had here, so we returned to the car, retrieved our gear and wheeled our bags up to the accommodation.

    As Whitby is somewhat famous for its seafood we decided we should have a proper seafood meal this evening and lined up for the most in-demand restaurant in the town. After waiting in the chilly lineup chatting to some other English people for about 30 minutes, we got a table and enjoyed an excellent meal - Seafood chowder, Crab Sandwiches and Halibut fish and chips (and mushy peas which is pretty much always the only extra offered).
    We decided we needed to go for a walk after this large meal but as we emerged from the restaurant, there was a really cold wind blowing up the harbour. We braved this stiff breeze and headed up to the Cook memorial and the Whalebone Arch.
    On the way there we decided that, as we had been in the UK for just over a month now and HADN’T had an icecream yet, we really should do this also. So along with all the other locals, we strode along in the freezing evening with our ice-cream cones trying to finish them before the icy wind melted them prematurely.

    We climbed the hill to the monument, snapped a few photos with shivering hands and then retreated back to the warmth and comfort of our quaint little B&B room.
    It promises to be a lazy start tomorrow, as breakfast doesn’t commence being served until 9am!
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  • Climbing the 199 steps to Whitby AbbeyWhitby AbbeyStreets getting crowded againThe missile defence systemOn the old city walls at YorkLoss' favourite shop in York. I resisted the temptation...York MinsterA very significant development in making the Bible accessible to the peopleThe building mentioned in the previous photo adjacent to York MinsterConstantine the GreatRevelation 12:1-5

    Our favourite York(!)

    31 Mei 2023, Inggris ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    It goes without saying that Darcy is our favourite York - but the city of York is pretty special too ;)

    We had our laziest start ever this morning, made some WhatsApp calls back home and wandered down to breakfast at 9.30am. We checked out immediately after breakfast, took all our bags back to the car (about 10 minutes walk along the cobblestoned streets) and then did a little more exploring of Whitby.
    The crowds were building again but were tolerable. The weather was not as cold as yesterday but there was a solid overcast.
    Loss and I went exploring separately for a bit (I was interested to see lots of people fishing for crabs off the wharf using collapsible nets with some bait secured in the base), then met up and had a look through the Museum of Jet which provided some interesting background to its use.
    It is no longer permissible to mine the material and the jewellery shops are supplied with their raw materials by locals who literally scour the beaches for bits that have been washed up on shore.
    Queen Victoria wore a lot of Whitby Jet jewellery during her 40 year long period of mourning after the death of her beloved Albert. This meant that Jet became the choice of Victorian women for mourning purposes but has more recently become a regular jewellery choice alongside any other precious or semi-precious gemstone.
    Another claim to fame for Whitby is its 7thC Abbey. Its decaying form and dramatic setting, sprawling graveyard and church surrounded by swooping bats - along with Jet being used as mourning jewellery inspired the author Bram Stoker to write the novel ‘Dracula’ in 1897 after having visited the town.
    We climbed the 199 steps up from the old town to the Abbey, took in the view and then returned to our car to commence our drive to York.

    The scenery changed dramatically as soon as we left the coast, and we saw on a hillside a very strangely shaped building which was part of a facility signposted as ‘RAF Flyingdales’. This turns out to be something ‘that provides a continuous ballistic missile early warning service to the UK and US governments, ensuring a surprise missile attack could not succeed. The RADAR is capable of tracking objects including satellites and debris, 3000 miles into space.’

    We found our accommodation in York without any issues and both the quality and location of the apartment are excellent - in a very quiet little nook but very central to the heart of York.
    Once we unloaded ALL our luggage this time (it was time to reorganise the luggage properly and start getting it ‘airline ready’ again) we had a bit of late lunch then headed off to start exploring by foot. We headed across the river, got ourselves onto the old city walls and began circumnavigating the city. The walls are not complete which meant getting back down to street level a few times to find the next section of wall.
    We were keen to have a look at the York Minster which is an iconic building but also has some significance as far as Bible history and prophecy is concerned (see the photos).
    We were also keen to have a bit of a look inside.
    Paid tours had finished for the day but we were invited in to the Evensong service which was about to commence. Not quite sure how it happened, but next minute we find ourselves seated up near the altar and the 40 minute service got underway.
    Being the third most important church in the Church of England, it was very much a ‘high CofE’ service and very foreign to us in so many ways.
    Never-the-less we got a good appreciation for the architecture and acoustics with the pipe organ and choir in full voice.
    Following this, we continued our tour of the walls of the city, bought some groceries for dinner and arrived back at our apartment just before 8pm.
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