U.K. - Iceland - Israel

April - June 2023
7 weeks exploring 3 very different locations. Brand new experiences mixed with revisiting some familiar ones.
In our usual style, it’s a packed itinerary . . . .
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  • 56footprints
  • 8countries
  • 52days
  • 864photos
  • 68videos
  • 45.7kkilometers
  • 38.3kkilometers
  • Preparations

    April 24, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C
  • Day 1

    You could’ve cut the air with a knife

    April 27, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    …. When she finally realised the limousine pickup service wasn’t coming….

  • Day 2

    We hit the ground running

    April 28, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    After 2 uneventful flights (Loss slept solidly for at least 10 hrs during our Singapore to London flight!), we landed at Heathrow around 7.30am local time.
    We did all the usual arrival stuff, then left our bags at Heathrow in a secure facility and jumped in a pre-booked car to Windsor Castle.
    We had a bit of time to walk around exploring the quaint twin towns of Windsor and Eton before touring Windsor castle itself.
    Eton college could be viewed from the outside- the alma mater of many famous Brits including George Orwell, David Cameron, Boris Johnson and Princes William and Harry to name a few.
    The Eton and Windsor brewery was our lunch stop, and Loss couldn’t resist sampling their latest creation which has been specially crafted to be served at king Charles’ Coronation in just over a week’s time. They are the official Royal Brewers, so how could she say no?
    It was then on to Windsor castle for a tour of both St George’s chapel and the Castle itself.
    Inside St George’s chapel we joined a large, respectful crowd filing past the burial place of Queen Elizabeth and Prince Phillip. It is also the burial place of Henry V111 and many other well known royals from the past.
    Prince Harry and Megan were also married there in 2018.
    As it turned out, King Charles happened to arrive at Windsor castle at almost the same time as us and although we didn’t see him we watched the Royal standard hoisted up the flagpole to mark his presence.
    The length and depth of the history in both places we visited is especially impressive.
    At the conclusion of our tour we caught a cab back to Heathrow, collected our bags and headed down to the Underground to train it in to Kings Cross / St Pancras.
    We’ve now settled in to a small self contained apartment in what seems to be a central yet quiet location in London.
    As I write this, it’s 8pm local time andLoriene is warming up a roast lamb dinner with all the trimmings which she had prepared and frozen at home. Amazing!- although it does help explain why my suitcase mysteriously increased from only just over 12kg when I had packed it up to a figure of about 20kg by the time I was wheeling it out our front door.
    It smells delicious, so signing off here for now.
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  • Day 3

    Out and about on a sunny London day

    April 29, 2023 in England ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Who said London has poor weather?
    Today was glorious blue skies and pleasantly warm as we tackled a few significant points of interest.
    We left the apartment just after 8am to walk to St. Paul’s Cathedral for our first tour of the day. The architecture of the building is amazing and the audio tour was very informative. A real highlight (especially for Loss) was to hear the pipe organ being played while we were there.
    After seeing all the main features of the building, we then climbed right to the top of the dome for some great views across London. The narrow, winding staircase is definitively not for the claustrophobics!
    After this, we caught the tube to Queensway station then walked down through Kensington gardens to Kensington Palace. In the grounds is a memorial tribute to Princess Diana who lived there from the time of her wedding until her death 16 years later.
    As it happens to be a holiday weekend (and the weather was so nice - testified by the number of English out sunning themselves) we were only able to secure tickets for a tour of the palace itself at 4.30pm. This gave us a few hours to see some other things in the interim, so we walked /tubed back to Whitehall, and then toured the Churchill war rooms - the bunkers underneath Whitehall where Churchill and his war cabinet planned and executed WW2. The whole place is preserved exactly as it was in 1945 and gives a sense of the fortitude and conviction of Churchill and his nation of the time.
    As we were leaving Whitehall (hoping to go to number 10 Downing Street), we happened upon a changing of the guard.
    Alas, Downing Street is no longer accessible to the public - totally protected by police and steel fences - quite different to my last visit in 1974 when you could stand right by the door.
    We spent a little time down on the banks of the Thames (amid throngs of people, a large protest outside Whitehall and many shirtless British men who were finding the 19 degree temperatures way too warm to stay fully clothed), with some photo ops of the London Eye and Big Ben while we were there.
    It was then time to return to Kensington Palace for our 4.30pm tour. We walked then tubed to Paddington station first (mainly for the benefit of the grandchildren who love Paddington bear) - then another 20 minute walk saw us back at Kensington where we enjoyed a tour of the palace - not the section where Diana lived - but rather where Queen Victoria was born, lived and worked.
    After another walk / tube and walk, then a shopping diversion for some groceries - we returned ‘home’ at 7pm after clocking up 23,000 steps today.
    A great day all round, rounded off with Loss preparing another amazing meal in the kitchenette.
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  • Day 4

    Off to visit the Queen (King, actually)

    April 30, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    After our solid day yesterday I assured Loss we would take it a little easier today, so I let her sleep in until 6am, followed by a memorial meeting (Riverwood YouTube stream from a few hours before) at 6.30 - then out the door just before 8am.
    A brisk walk then tube to Leicester Square heading for Trafalgar Square. On the way Loss spotted St. Martin-in-the Fields Church which was a source of some excitement because she has enjoyed some fabulous music from there over the years.
    After checking out Trafalgar Square, we walked down the Mall to Buckingham Palace where much preparation was taking place for the Coronation in 6 days time.
    After a short stroll / detour (and coffee) in St. James’ park the plan was to see the Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace.
    Loss was VERY pleased to see it had been cancelled today (Coronation preps) - she hates large crowds with a passion - so we altered plans slightly and headed around the corner to ‘The Queen’s Gallery’ which is part of Buckingham palace, and enjoyed (with the help of an audio tour) an excellent gallery of Georgian artwork and artefacts. It was surprisingly engaging.
    Following this we walked a few hundred metres further down the periphery of Buckingham Palace grounds to tour through “The Royal Mews” where the horses, carriages and cars that transport the Royals are kept and maintained.
    Of particular interest was that the carriages to be used next Saturday were on display, including the Australian Bicentennial gift carriage constructed by the Australian carriage maker W.J. Frecklington.
    According to the staff, it is expected that this carriage will transport Charles and Camilla from Buckingham Place to Westminster Abbey for the Coronation - but carriage selection is very much weather dependent.
    Next stop was Wellington Arch (and the Australian War Memorial which is adjacent to it) where our legs had the luxury of a lift to the top of the arch for an impressive view over this area of London.
    The next stop was planned to be ‘The Jewel Tower’ at Westminster, however I made a major error at this point.🙁
    On leaving Wellington arch, I sought directions from a security guard involved in setting up barricades for the Coronation.
    Me: “I’m wondering if you could tell me please, is this road down here Piccadilly?”
    I was about to tell him that we were looking for Leicester Square Station but before I had a chance to say this, the guard (looking directly at Loss and not at me, says) “Yes sir, and is it the Ritz you’re looking for? Or perhaps Fortnum and Mason’s? - they’re both down there just on the right”
    I was looking for neither, but with a gleam in her eye and a new spring in her step, I trailed behind ‘she-who-must-be-obeyed’ as these became our new ‘interim’ destinations.
    After dragging her away from the front steps of the Ritz and then parting with unseemly amounts of cash for minuscule amounts of produce at Fortnum and Masons, we eventually made it to the Jewel Tower and toured it.
    The Westminster area was absolutely teeming with people as we fought our way around to get a look at Westminster Abbey. The Abbey has already been closed for a week to prepare it for next Saturday, so we quickly made our way down to the riverfront with the intention of catching the Uber ferry to Greenwich.
    This was not to be as the large crowds meant that availability was non existent, so we took a 10 minute break to work out a new plan for the next few hours until our 6pm ‘View From the Shard’ booking.
    We settled on paying a visit to The British Museum - which we duly did (after a 10 minute lunch break at a nearby cafe) - and although the crowds were large, we were able to move through the exhibits quickly and efficiently with the use of the book ‘Through the British Museum with the Bible’ which Bro. Stephen Whitehouse had recommended.
    This was absolutely invaluable as it gave step-by-step detailed instructions on where to find the Biblically relevant exhibits and the Bible passages and background information about them.
    2 hours (and being kicked out at closing time at 5pm) saw us covering 46 pages of its content - but it runs to 140 pages - so another visit is planned within the next few days.
    We then tubed it back to ‘The Shard’ for our 6pm trip up to the viewing platform (72 stories) of London’s tallest building.
    It was great to be able to identify some of the places we had visited over the last couple of days from this vantage point.
    So a final tube ride back ‘home’ with another grocery stop (I did offer to eat out but she said she was happy to cook) saw us through the door at 7.45pm with the same amount of walking as yesterday.
    I’ve promised Loss another easy day tomorrow.
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  • Day 5

    Up and Down the Thames

    May 1, 2023 in England ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We were planning a lazy start today for a departure at around 8.15am - which we did.

    However, the day started at 4.30am with Loss’ phone ringing right beside me on the bedside table. It was a call from an Australia Post driver who was trying to deliver a parcel for a Mrs. Dennes……….

    After an unsuccessful attempt to get back to sleep, I eventually rose at 7. In a ‘belts and braces’ approach I immediately (a) activated the Do Not Disturb feature on her phone (b) removed the Australian SIM card and (c) have determined that said phone will be banished to the bathroom for overnight recharging.

    We left the unit at the forecast time and walked to another ‘Monopoly’ destination - this time Euston Station (London’s oldest) to tube down to Embankment where we had a look at Cleopatra’s needle. Apart from its fascinating ancient Egyptian origins, it suffers shrapnel damage - still evident - of the very first aerial bombing of London in WW 1.

    We then walked over the Golden Jubilee Bridge to a very deserted London Eye precinct. To our surprise we’ve found that London has been very quiet in the early mornings and only starts to really come alive after about 10am when most of the tourist destinations open. Today was no exception despite being a public holiday.

    We had a coffee (our best so far - but that is a fairly low bar) at the Marriott perched on the southern end of Westminster Bridge and then proceeded back to the London Eye to enjoy a wonderful view of London from one of its pods as it gently makes its rotation in the sky. Overpriced? Sure. Worth doing? - Definitely.
    We then walked back across the Thames via the Golden Jubilee bridge (could some one please explain to me why there is a skateboard graveyard on one of the pylons here??) to catch the Uber ferry to Greenwich.

    First point of interest at Greenwich was the Old Naval Royal College with two particularly impressive buildings - the ‘Painted Hall’ which is touted as Britain’s Sistine Chapel; and the Christopher Wren designed Chapel.
    Although very interesting, these buildings were secondary to our (well, my) main interest in this area - the Greenwich Observatory and the Greenwich Prime Meridian.

    During the era when British influence and maritime strength was at its greatest, the world agreed on this Greenwich Prime Meridian and hence solved a major navigation problem for mariners (and subsequently pilots). Having used ‘Greenwich Mean Time’ (now called UTC) in aviation for many years, I enjoyed standing / straddling this meridian and thinking about its impact on my life.

    Back down on the Thames was the Clipper ‘Cutty Sark’ which was once the fastest sailing ship in the world. Our tour of this historic vessel was brief but sufficient to appreciate its main features. It was also interesting to note that it spent some of its working life transporting coal and wool from Australia.

    It was now about 2.30pm and London crowds were out in full force. We had to wait for 2 Uber ferries to come and go before we could return to central London but just managed to get back to Bankside Pier and run up the ramp to catch the last tour or the day at Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre.
    This working theatre is an exact recreation of the Theatre as it existed in Elizabethan times (late 1500’s) when Shakespeare was actively involved in its operation. As part of the tour we watched a rehearsal for a production of Midsummer Night’s Dream which was to be performed tonight.

    We then caught the Uber ferry back to Embankment and then ‘tubed’ it home - arriving at the very early hour of 5.30pm. We both realised this was way too early - are there any options?
    I stupidly mentioned that Harrods would still be open. A few minutes of website searching later, Loss has said she’s found a pair of shoes at Harrods she likes the look of . . and they’re only 2,250 GBP.

    At this point I backpedal and say that I might not have read the Opening Hours correctly - and that even if it was open that - due to the Public Holiday - the crowds would be too large for her liking. I promise we will pay a visit to Harrods before we leave London on Thursday. She accepts this compromise - but I fear I have only kicked the problem down the road a little……..
    I also fear my sleep might be interrupted tonight - not by the sound of a phone ringing, but rather by the sound of the Harrods rapid-delivery service knocking on our door.
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  • Day 6

    Towers and Bridges

    May 2, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Today started with phone calls - again - but this time they were welcome :)
    We had a lovely FaceTime with Laura in Perth, then Beebs and all the kids on their way home from swimming lessons, then finally Darcy (once he had woken up from his nap). And this was all following a call late(ish) last night from Beth (which I promptly fell asleep in the midst thereof).

    We had a relatively leisurely start, as our first destination was Tower Bridge which doesn’t open until 9.30am. The walk and tube saw us arriving right at opening time and we entered with no delay. There are many similarities between Tower Bridge and the Sydney Harbour Bridge (all steel construction, rivets, stonework on towers / pylons only for decoration). It only takes 60 seconds to fully open the Bridge which still happens quite regularly to allow for the passing of ships. The engineering is phenomenal.

    Next was our first tower for the day - the Tower of London which is very close by. This was a mixed experience. The most popular of the experiences here is to get up close and personal with the Crown Jewels. Although the place was very busy by now, the queue into the Crown Jewels building was very short. On entering we quickly realised why - most of the ‘good’ stuff has been removed to prepare it for use on Saturday at the Coronation. However, there were still two particularly beautiful and famous items on display - the crown that the Queen mother wore; and the small diamond crown that Queen Victoria wore and is most often depicted as wearing in statues, paintings and films and which she wore most often during her long widowhood.
    On the bright side of this experience, Loss didn’t have to suffer large, close-packed crowds (see previous entries).

    In spite of this, the rest of London Tower was extremely interesting. The details of the imprisonments, tortures and executions that took place here is astonishing.
    Also, to be walking around inside a building that William The Conquerer built shortly after invading England in 1066 is mind blowing for someone coming from Oz.

    Our next tower was the Monument to the Great Fire of London of 1666. The monument closes for an hour between 1 and 2pm each day and our timing saw us arriving right in this period so we allowed ourselves the luxury of a half hour lunch break before experiencing the Monument - a good thing too - as an energy boost was definitely helpful as we climbed the seemingly-never-ending spiral staircase to the top. (Just checking now, my watch (and legs) registered we climbed 53 flights in total today).
    However it was worth the effort as the views were excellent from the viewing platform at the top.

    Next (at Loriene’s insistence) was a short visit to the nearby ‘tailor’s district’, specifically to the Charles Tyrwhitt shop. We’ve been ordering online custom business shirts from them for many years but weren’t brave enough to order pants without trying them on.
    This I duly did, worked out exact size and fit and will order online ‘when the price is right’ as they often have special discount deals for their overseas customers throughout the year.

    It was now mid afternoon so we tubed it back to the British Museum for a second crack at getting through the Biblically relevant displays. By the time we were kicked out again at 5pm we had made significant further progress - but it will need a third visit tomorrow to finish it. We have been photographing every single exhibit (in order) that is described in the guide book we have been using. I expect it will be a valuable resource to use in the future.

    A 15 minute walk back to our ‘home’, with yet another grocery stop on the way saw us through the door at a very respectable 6pm. I did offer to head out to Harrods but it seems it is preferred to visit there tomorrow ‘when we will have more time’. Gulp.

    Tomorrow is our last day in London. Apart from finishing the British museum, we have covered all our ‘must do’ items (except Harrods 😳). There are a couple of other things we have in mind to do in addition if time permits.
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  • Day 7

    “All roads lead to . . . Harrods”

    May 3, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Today started with visiting 2 famous roads and finished at you-know-where.

    We were out the door just before 8am to catch buses (rather than the Underground) to our first destination - Abbey Road. Loss was VERY keen for this as she is a Beatles fan from way back😉 - so I went along for the ride to humour her.

    We found it without any trouble and I did the obligatory pedestrian crossing at this famous location that featured on the album cover of the same name. We sent a message home to the kids to have a look at the live Webcam that has been installed at the site (which they duly did) and they did in fact see us (and captured some screenshots of us holding up the traffic unnecessarily) to ‘relive’ this moment from 1969. It was all a bit of fun - but it was very bleak this morning so we took a brisk walk then bus ride(s) to our second famous road - Portobello road, Notting Hill.

    I have created a separate footprint for the kids for this one. (Adults, if you have no interest in Paddington bear and his love for Portobello road then don’t bother with that footprint).

    We had a bit of a look around the district, noting the variety of pastel painted houses which are a well known feature of this area.

    It was now time to return to the British museum again as we had ‘unfinished business’.
    A brisk walk to the Tube station (partly in order to stay warm) saw us arriving at the Museum around 10.30am. There was no queue and we quickly picked up where we had left off yesterday. About 2.5 hours of solid work and photography got us to the point in the book where we finally read the words ‘You have now completed your tour of the Museum’. The only disappointment was that 2 rooms that we wished to inspect were closed due to staffing shortages. We tried to convince / coax/ bribe one of the staff members to allow us in - but alas we will have to get someone else to inspect and take the photos in these rooms for us another time.

    We had a 20 minute lunch break in The Great Court area before heading to our next activity - a trip down one of London’s canals in a canal ‘narrowboat’. The boat departed Little Venice at 2.30pm and we were cutting it fine. Another brisk 15 minute walk, followed by an unseemly sprint at the finish to catch the required bus - then another jog after we got off the bus - saw us arriving with minutes to spare at the dock at Little Venice.
    We probably would never normally have thought to book this trip, but it was an inclusion on the London Pass we had been using to gain ‘free’ access to all the things we had done so far (bar the Churchill museum and the London Eye).
    The 45 minute trip up this London canal was surprisingly enjoyable and the expert commentary was very informative. The history and importance of the extensive network of canals through England was relatively unknown to us both.

    Well, there was no delaying it any longer - it was time to man-up and head to Harrods. As we exited Knightsbridge underground I could barely keep up with Loss as she fairly sprinted in the direction the signs were leading her.

    There were 3 areas she was particularly interested in inspecting - the food hall, the children’s toys and clothing section, and the shoe department. All of these filled me with fear and dread.

    We eventually emerged from Harrods’ clutches with the final damage not as bad as I had feared. Some grandchildren’s gifts were purchased, but fortunately I was eventually successful in convincing her that the Louis Vuitton shoes that she had homed in on didn’t look that good on her . . .🤫

    A tube ride back to Russell Square had us walking through the door just after 6pm - our last day of exploring London. It has been really enjoyable and busy and the weather was very kind to us overall.

    Tomorrow we plan to pick up a a rental car to use for touring the rest of the UK during the coming weeks.
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  • Day 7

    Paddington at Portobello Road

    May 3, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    This is especially for the Grandchildren who are Paddington fans - but on the other hand, who doesn’t love Paddington?

    We were able to identify a few of Paddington’s favourite places on Portobello road. I hope you enjoy them.Read more

  • Day 8

    “V” for (Vegemite) Victory

    May 4, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    It’s taken one full week, poking our heads into at least a dozen different supermarkets of all different types based on the ‘London Vegemite map’ I had found online. No luck - plenty of Marmite, but no Vegemite.
    Neither Fortnum and Masons nor Harrods could help either. Getting desperate, we turned for guidance and help to Kiri Scott (née Mansfield) and as a savvy expat Aussie she was able to provide the direction we needed- ASDA supermarkets stock Vegemite.
    Sure enough, when we finished our day here in Portsmouth and realised there was an ASDA supermarket nearby (is it just a coincidence that our Vegemite Victory was gained at said supermarket located on Winston Churchill Drive ?😉), we walked there after dinner - and viola! - the iconic Aussie spread that had been purloined in SIngapore was now replaced.

    Our day started well and ran much more smoothly than I had anticipated.

    The first task of the day was to pick up our hire car. I was just a little anxious about the whole thing as I was not dealing with one of the major rental companies. I had found a company online called ‘EasiRent’ who were WAY cheaper than the others and as they had only 50% more negative reviews than the major rental players, I thought ‘what could possibly go wrong?’

    The collection point was at Marble Arch at an underground car park - where no one would be in attendance. The whole transaction would be done via an intercom link to ….. Romania …. Or Kazakhstan . . . Or somewhere similar. The emailed instructions I had received were reasonably clear (once I had used Google Translate to decipher a few of the Cyrillic words that had slipped through) and the ‘excess’ was a very reasonable sum
    equivalent to the GDP of a small Pacific Island nation. Still, the rental price was right - and they had been very consistent in answering my queries via email - they had totally ignored them.
    On top of all this, I had been chatting to Andrew Ward about our impending trip a few months earlier, and he had mentioned HE had used a dodgy rental car company last time in the U.K.
    “Oh, who might that be?”
    “It was a company called ‘EasiRent’ - the vehicle pick-up was nightmarish etc etc…. I think they should change their name to ‘Not-So-EasiRent’ “

    Hmmmm.

    We got ourselves and our luggage onto a bus from Euston station at 8.15am that went directly to Marble Arch, found the underground car park and followed the CyrillicoEnglish instructions. I pushed the intercom button and waited - an accented voice came out of the speaker - and once I had identified myself to his satisfaction by giving him all my passport and driver’s licence details as well as bank account passwords, it was ‘G’day maaaate . . . can I interest you in an upgrade at a VERY reasonable rate?’
    Even though I declined his kind offer, I was then instructed to push another button on the panel - and a magic little door opened to reveal a car key - for a car that actually existed!
    The car seems to be in quite good condition - and the airconditioning even sort of works once you get the speed above 80km/hr.

    We were pleased to leave the increasingly busy London behind as we travelled south to Brighton on the Sea. I had warned Loss not to have expectations set too high for this ‘Riviera’ of the south coast of England. Sure enough, Brighton beach (river stones) and the Pier (tired and neglected) were somewhat underwhelming. We walked to the end of the pier and back, found a place to have a coffee and snack indoors away from the windswept, deserted beachfront and then headed for Portsmouth.

    We checked in to the motel then walked down to the harbour front area which was much livelier and more inviting than Brighton’s. We took a ride up to the top of ‘Spinnaker Tower’ and enjoyed the view across to the Isle of Wight which we are due to visit tomorrow. We found a local Nandos and enjoyed quite a reasonable meal. A further walk to ASDA to achieve the Vegemite victory then back to the motel and our ‘V for Victory day’ is done.
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