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  • Bill & Sheri’s Icy Adventure
    Day 9

    Reykjavik - Day 6 - Horsies and Salmon

    November 8, 2022 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 41 °F

    So with a little extra time, Maria our guide, took us a little off tour to see and pet some Icelandic Horses (please don’t call them ponies they get very insulted) and a salmon run at the base of a waterfall.

    Sheri created a montage of the pictures but we also posted them individually in case it does not work for you.

    About those Icelandic Horses:

    The Icelandic horse is a breed of horse developed in Iceland. Although the horses are small, at times pony-sized, most registries for the Icelandic refer to it as a horse. Icelandic horses are long-lived and hardy. In their native country they have few diseases; Icelandic law prevents horses from being imported into the country and exported animals are not allowed to return. The Icelandic displays two gaits in addition to the typical walk, trot, and canter/gallop commonly displayed by other breeds. The only breed of horse in Iceland, they are also popular internationally, and sizable populations exist in Europe and North America. The breed is still used for traditional sheepherding work in its native country, as well as for leisure, showing, and racing.

    Developed from ponies taken to Iceland by Norse settlers in the 9th and 10th centuries, the breed is mentioned in literature and historical records throughout Icelandic history; the first reference to a named horse appears in the 12th century.

    The Icelandic is a "five-gaited" breed, known for its sure-footedness and ability to cross rough terrain. As well as the typical gaits of walk, trot, and canter/gallop, the breed is noted for its ability to perform two additional gaits.

    The first additional gait is a four-beat lateral ambling gait known as the tölt. This is known for its explosive acceleration and speed; it is also comfortable and ground-covering.

    The breed also performs a pace called a skeið, flugskeið or "flying pace". It is used in pacing races, and is fast and smooth, with some horses able to reach up to 30 miles per hour (48 Kilometers). Not all Icelandic horses can perform this gait; animals that perform both the tölt and the flying pace in addition to the traditional gaits are considered the best of the breed.

    The salmon run was at the base of a small waterfall and the Icelandic game and fish council created the run to allow the salmon to get further upstream. It is not active in winter, so you don’t see any water on the run in the picture. Look to the left of the waterfall and you will see stone steps that the salmon use to climb up the waterfall.    Read more

  • Bill & Sheri’s Icy Adventure
    Day 9

    Reykjavik - Day 6 - Gullfoss Falls

    November 8, 2022 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 41 °F

    Watch the video to see the two tiered effects of this beautiful waterfall.

    Gullfoss Waterfall: the most popular waterfall in Iceland. Gullfoss is considered by many to be one of the most beautiful in Iceland and is one of the largest. The falls plunge 32 meters over two tiers into the Hvita River below.

    Icelanders are very eco conscious (even before the current crisis) and are concerned about the ever increasing effects of both hydropower and geothermal power used to power heavy industry on the Icelandic landscape, river and waterfalls. For this reason the Gullfoss waterfall has special meaning.

    In the last century there were plans to dam the Hvítá river to generate electricity but those plans were fiercely opposed by the local woman Sigridur Tomasdottir (1871 – 1957) who lived on the farm of Brattholt just nearby. In her early adulthood she made her living partly by guiding travelers to the waterfall that, at that time, was practically in the middle of nowhere. Her herculean efforts to oppose any plans to use Hvítá or Gullfoss to generate electricity earned her the distinction of being a pioneer of environmentalism in Iceland. Today, tens of thousands of people experience the majesty of Gullfoss waterfall. Sigridur would surely approve, even though the relief plaque (see photo) indicates a stern demeanor.

    COUPLE OF OTHER WATERFALL NOTES:
    Gullfoss – or “Golden falls” may be the best known Icelandic waterfall, but it is not as powerful as Dettifoss in the north or as high as Glymur in the south-west.    Read more

  • Bill & Sheri’s Icy Adventure
    Day 9

    Reykjavik - Day 6 - Geyser

    November 8, 2022 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 41 °F

    From Wikipedia:

    Note: Watch the video to see Strokkur erupt.

    Geysir (pronounced geezer), sometimes known as The Great Geysir, is a geyser in southwestern Iceland. It was the first geyser described in a printed source and the first known to modern Europeans.

    The English word geyser (a periodically spouting hot spring) derives from Geysir. The name Geysir itself is derived from the Icelandic verb geysa ("to gush"). Geysir lies in the Haukadalur valley on the slopes of Laugarfjall hill, which is also the home to Strokkur geyser.

    The research shows that Geysir has been active for approximately 10,000 years. The oldest accounts of hot springs at Haukadalur date back to 1294, when earthquakes in the area caused significant changes in local neighbouring landscape creating several new hot springs. Changes in the activity of Geysir and the surrounding geysers are strongly related to earthquake activity. In records dated 1630, the geysers erupted so violently that the valley around them trembled. The placename "Geysir" has been first mentioned in written sources in 18th century and, as unusual natural phenomena were of high interest to the society during the Age of Enlightenment, the term became popular and has been used for similar hydrothermal features worldwide since then.

    History of recent centuries shows that earthquakes have tended to revive the activity of Geysir which then subsides again in the following years. Before 1896, Geysir was almost dormant before an earthquake that year caused eruptions to begin again, occurring several times a day, lasting up to an hour and causing spouts of up to 60 metres (200 ft) in height. In 1910, it was active every 30 minutes; five years later, the time between the eruptions was as much as six hours, and in 1916, the eruptions all but ceased. In 1935, a man-made channel was dug through the silica rim around the edge of the geyser vent. This ditch caused a lowering of the water table and a revival in activity. Gradually this channel became too clogged with silica and eruptions again became rare.

    In 1981, the ditch was cleared again and eruptions could be stimulated, on special occasions, by the addition of soap. Due to environmental concerns, the practice of adding soap was seldom employed during the 1990s. During that time, Geysir seldom erupted. When it did erupt, it was spectacular, sending boiling water sometimes up to 70 metres (230 ft) into the air. On the Icelandic National Day, authorized government geologists would force an eruption. A further earthquake in 2000 revived the geyser again and it reached 122 meters for two days, thus becoming one of the highest known geysers in history (Waimangu Geyser in New Zealand erupted up to 460 metres (1,510 ft) high, but stopped erupting around 1900). Initially, eruptions were taking place on average eight times a day. By July 2003, this activity had again decreased to around three times per day.

    LITTLE GEYSIR

    The nearby geyser Strokkur erupts much more frequently than Geysir, erupting to heights of up to 30 metres (98 ft) every few minutes. Strokkur's activity has also been affected by earthquakes, although to a lesser extent than the Great Geysir. There are around thirty much smaller geysers and hot pools in the area, including one called Litli Geysir ('Little Geysir').

    Until 1894, the Geysir area was owned by a local farmer. In that year the area was sold to James Craig (later Lord Craigavon), a whiskey distiller from Ulster and a future Prime Minister of Northern Ireland. Initially, he erected large fences around the site and an entrance fee was charged for visitors wishing to view the geysers. The following year, however, Craig appeared to tire of his project and gave the area as a present to a friend, E. Craig, who dropped the entrance fees. Later Craig's nephew Hugh Rogers inherited the site. In 1935, he sold the site to film director Sigurður Jónasson who subsequently donated it to the Icelandic people in perpetuity.    Read more

  • Bill & Sheri’s Icy Adventure
    Day 9

    Rekjavik - Day 6 - Thingvellir Nat’l Prk

    November 8, 2022 in Iceland ⋅ 🌧 37 °F

    So day six was chocked full of sightseeing. The overall tour is called the Golden Circle Tour, the final leg are the baths at the Blue Lagoon. In between are a lot of items. Due to the limitation for pictures in a single footprint, we’re are going to break this day into multiple sections, this one is dedicated to Thingvellir National Park.

    Thingvellir National Park is hallowed ground where Icelandic forbearers found the oldest parliament and commonwealth in 930. It remained the gathering place for assemblies from 930 to 1798. After the settling of Iceland starting in 870, the country became a collection of different entities headed by their own Chieftains. Eventually there would be 13 and the country grew to be somewhat unruly. Recognizing the fact that they needed some sort of common understanding, the gathered in Thingvellir and created their parliament.

    When the parliament was in session in the high summer during the first centuries of its existence Thingvellir turned into a carnival where people from all over the country would dance, drink, trade, gossip, eat and be merry in every way. Except of course when they were fighting. Many young people would find their life partners at this gathering. It is well documented that people would do whatever they could to get to Thingvellir and to the 13 regional parliaments which were held during spring and autumn. After all, Iceland was a rural society with bad communications where you spend long winters holed up with just a few familiar faces. Meeting new people and getting drunk with them seemed to be just the ticket.

    17 days long trip to go to the party of the year? No problem

    Never mind you had to spend up to 17 days traveling on horseback or on foot to get to the festivities. The time to get there could be shorter based on location from Thingvellir and of course the weather. This venue for the highest parliament in the land was selected to be as central as possible. Its southern location ensured good weather. The river running next to it was diverted for easy access to fresh water and the fields were perfect for camping and grazing horses.

    THE POOL OF SHAME AND SORROW

    There were 70 – 80 executions in Thingvellir from the 17th century onwards. Of those, there are recorded 15 hangings, 30 beheadings, and 18 women who were drowned in the so-called “Drowning Pool” which was where the bridge across the river is now. It is the only place of execution which is marked by a memorial plaque but there are also places at Thingvellir with self-explanatory names such as Gallows Rock (Gálgaklettur), Scaffold beach (Gálgaeyri), and Burning gap (Brennugjá). The treatment of the innocent and often abused women executed at Thingvellir is truly a stain on Icelandic history.

    Thingvellir is also where the Mid-Atlantic Ridge Tectonic Plate Boundary (scientists call this type of plate a divergent boundary) of North American and Europe are slowing moving apart.

    Plate Tectonics explains what happens as the North American and Eurasian Plates pull away from each other; new crust is formed from erupted magma along either side of the ridge. As with other divergent boundaries, eventually a rift forms. When this occurs, the Icelandic land mass is going to separate, with water from the Atlantic Ocean filling in this widening gap and splitting the country in two. (There is a picture of the divide below)

    Live Science describes the Mid-Atlantic Ridge as a volcanic seam thousands of miles long where tectonic plates meet. At multiple points, magma erupts from deep inside the Earth and creates new crust, pushing the tectonic plates apart. All such volcanic seams are at the bottom of the ocean except for the portion of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge present in Iceland, the only place where it can be seen on land.

    Iceland offers scientists a unique opportunity to research the processes that occur on submerged mid-ocean ridges. The ridge also provides a natural laboratory for the study of plate tectonics and geothermal energy.

    Thingvellir is also features Thingvallavatn, the largest natural lake in Iceland.    Read more

  • Bill & Sheri’s Icy Adventure
    Day 8

    Reykjavik and Christmas

    November 7, 2022 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    Since we are getting close to Christmas, I will tell you how the Icelanders celebrate the holiday. They don’t have a Santa equivalent. What they have are the Yule Lads. Now there are two versions of the story, one very Disney (mostly) and one very Grimm’s fairy tale. First the Disney version:

    For the 13 days before Christmas, the lads visit every home, the children leave their shoes in the window, if they have been nice, they will get a gift, if the children have been bad, the lads leave them a rotten potato. Of course a rotten potato could kill you so be careful…

    Now the Grimm’s fairy tale version:

    In this version, the Yule lads and their family have a mission that is less than ideal for the modern Christmas spirit. First the Yule lads are the offspring of two trolls, Gryla and Leppaludi. They travel from the mountains on Christmas Eve and visit the towns population. They make loud noises, steal candles and eat all the yogurt, no mention of gifts from this group.

    It get’s worse….

    The parents are a little more sinister, they eat the naughty children. Worst of all is the family pet (a cat of course, sorry you cat lovers). In this tale, the cat ate the poor (good or bad), the basis for determining “poor” was clothing. If someone did not get new clothes for Christmas, they are fair game and the cat would eat them.

    Recommendation here: At least give everyone in your family a new pair of socks….    Read more

  • Bill & Sheri’s Icy Adventure
    Day 8

    Rekjavik - Day Five Just Hanging Out

    November 7, 2022 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    So it’s day five and Sheri and I decided to just hang out for the day. We got up and went and had coffee at Te and Kaffi, then did a little shopping for ourselves and others. Won’t list them here since there are surprises.

    Sheri found the Aurora Museum which is dedicated to the Northern Lights. I wish we had known of this exhibit before we went on the tour as it was very helpful and informative (although our guide Tony did cover some of the items from this tour). Following is how an Aurora is created:

    The Sun sends us more than heat and light; it sends lots of other energy and small particles our way. The protective magnetic field around Earth shields us from most of the energy and particles, and we don't even notice them.

    But the Sun doesn't send the same amount of energy all the time. There is a constant streaming solar wind and there are also solar storms. During one kind of solar storm called a coronal mass ejection, the Sun burps out a huge bubble of electrified gas that can travel through space at 80 million miles per hour. Within 8 hours, these storms blow past Mars, after 16 hours it passes through Venus, next up Earth.

    When a solar storm passes earth, some of the energy and small particles can travel down the magnetic field lines at the north and south poles into Earth's atmosphere. Creating the Northern (Aurora Borealis) and Southern Lights (Australis Borealis).

    There, the particles interact with gases in our atmosphere resulting in beautiful displays of light in the sky. Oxygen gives off green and red light. Nitrogen glows blue and purple.

    Following are how some cultures view the arrival of the Northern Lights:

    In the far north of North America the Inuit Indians believed the lights were shadows of deceased relatives and friends. When the Northern lights appeared it the deceased marching and dancing around to remind them of their presence.

    Russian Folklore associates the lights with the fire dragon Ognennty Zmey. It seems that if you left your wife alone too long, the fire dragon came and she would end up pregnant. (Only the Russians would come up with this one).

    In China’s folklore, the Aurora Borealis has been linked to fertility and child birth. In Chinese culture it is believed a child conceived under the Northern Lights will be blessed with good fortune, beauty and intellect.

    In Norse history, the Northern Lights have many versions of their effect. One story is that the lights reflected on the shields of the Valkyries racing across the sky to their final resting place in Valhalla. The Northern Lights are also linked to dead women, especially dead virgins and children who were killed by accident or still born.

    When the lights were dancing around, the spirits were happy, if not then the people would whistle or clap their hands to cheer up them up.

    For Iceland, the Northern Lights supposedly lighten the pain of women in childbirth. However, if the mother stares into the Northern Lights during childbirth, the child will be cross eyed, definitely a double edged sword. If the Northern Lights are red, it portends bad news.

    The Finns believed that the Northern Lights were created by the arctic fox running around in the dark on winter nights. Their tail would sweep across the snow creating big sparks which were the Northern Lights.

    From the Aurora Museum, it was time for lunch. I had fish and chips along with a fish soup at the Reykjavik Fish Company. Excellent food. Sheri on the other hand wanted a hot dog….

    The dog came with brown ketchup, and a yellow…ish mustard (it’s regular mustard mixed with remoulade) and a crunchy onion spread. Sheri liked most of it (especially the crunchy onions) but the mustard was sweet. Next time NO mustard.

    Then we roamed around for a while and Sheri found her favorite place so far. A local coffee shop and bookstore, where we had Illy coffee and Swiss chocolate and perused some to the books.

    Then back to the apartment. Only sour note of the day was the dinner. There is a Vietnamese Pho Soup chain here, should you come, avoid it.

    The stone and small brown building in the second picture, appears to be where the Russian Orthodox Church will be built at some time in the future. The third picture is just a street that Sheri liked the looks of. The bird was hanging around the hot dog stand and was more interesting looking than that stand itself or so we thought. Some interesting facts about that little stand:

    It’s name is Baejarins Beaty Pylsur
    It’s been located in and around the Reykjavik harbor since 1937
    It has made it onto the list of most popular restaurants in Reykjavik and is now a major tourist attraction.
    It reached global fame when President Bill Clinton at there in 2004.    Read more

  • Bill & Sheri’s Icy Adventure
    Day 7

    Reykjavik - Day 3 - Chasing the Lights

    November 6, 2022 in Iceland ⋅ 🌙 37 °F

    After ending our walking tour, a quick nap and that delicious Indian Dinner, it was time to “Chase the Northern Lights”. The operative word here is “Chase”. The lights don’t show all the time, they don’t show all over and they can be very shy. You generally have to be well away from the city or any other lights for them to be viewable by the naked eye.

    We started this journey at 8:30 at night, getting picked up by our apartment and then heading north into the darkness. Since the lights are not always viewable by the naked eye, the guide will take a camera outside and see if he can see the lights through the camera. If they can, then you stay around in hopes that they become brighter and your eyes adjust so you can see them without the camera.

    The night was pretty clear, so when a thin line of what seemed to be clouds appeared on the horizon, the guide got very excited (he was a very energetic person) and off we went to see if we had found the lights. We had, but you could only see them via camera shots. We waited around for an hour or so for them to become more visible, but they got shy and went away. The group had hot Chocolate (delish) and some sort of doughnut that grandmothers would give you when you came to visit, based on the taste of what we were given, grandma would be very lonely.

    We then traveled further north to the Fjord to see if they would visit us there. Unfortunately, not, but we got a great nighttime shot of the Fjord (silver lining so to speak).

    When you look at the pictures, the green strip you see are the Northern Lights. It was a very clear night, so we got some shots of the moon and stars along with the lights. Although some of the photos look like daytime shots, most were taken after 10PM. Sheri has a good camera and the new iPhones take some amazing pictures.

    The whole scene sort of reminded me of the movie Twister with Helen Hunt and Bill Pullman as tornado chasers. They kept calling other chasers to see where the tornados were. In our version (a lot safer) the guides called each other throughout the area to see if they were seeing the lights. If they were, then I suppose everyone would converge onto that area, but everyone was having the same experience on this night.

    We ended the chase around 1AM and headed back. On Wednesday night, Sheri will try again. As for me, I’m just going to relax and have a cocktail and wait for the pictures.    Read more

  • Bill & Sheri’s Icy Adventure
    Day 7

    Reykjavik - Day Three Walking Tour

    November 6, 2022 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 43 °F

    Day three we resumed our walking tour around Reykjavik. First up, the Catholic Basilica of Reykjavik. The architecture is very similar to the churches we saw in NYC and quite beautiful. Then it was off to City Hall. A very cold concrete building, but it was surrounded by an amazing pond. People were out feeding the ducks, geese and swans. Sheri decided that the man with the concrete head was more interesting than the city hall building itself. However, she did take a picture of the pond.

    From there we headed down to the parliament building. There are 63 elected parliamentarians, 30 of which are women. Keeping in mind a that Iceland had the first democratically elected female president as well as the first gay woman prime minister, this is a very open and egalitarian society. There was a protest in the part on behalf of refugees while we were there. It was the first time we had seen any policemen in the city since we arrived.

    Next stop was the statue of Ingolfur Arnanson who, as I mentioned earlier, was the person to first settle Reykjavik. Ingolfur is standing by his high seated pillar decorated with a Dragon’s Head indicating his chieftain status. You can’t see it clearly, but part of the monument is a statue to Odin the Norse pagan god of war with his two ravens, Hugin and Munin. Also on the Odin statue is the mythological tree Yggdrasil (an immense and sacred tree around which all else exists including the 9 worlds of Norse mythology) you would also see the worm of Midgard (this is not part of the Marvel universe and Sheri said it must not be important so really who cares) and Odin’s eight legged horse Slepnir.

    Finished the afternoon walk with a cappuccino and a latte at Cafe Babalu.

    Onto some shopping as I needed nice warm socks for tonights adventure to the Northern Lights. See the next footprint for that review. Before the Northern Lights however, dinner at an Indian restaurant. Great food. Both Sheri and I have noticed the quantity of food you get here. Not sure if the cold means you need to eat more, but man o geez do you get a lot of food.    Read more

  • Bill & Sheri’s Icy Adventure
    Day 6

    Reykjavik - Day Two - Walking Tour

    November 5, 2022 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 41 °F

    After finishing up at the Hallgrimskirkj we headed out for the rest of our walking tour. It was down to the waterfront and onto the Harpa Concert Hall and Conference Center, a beautiful glass structure on the waterfront. Sheri and I walked around there for a while, and then had lunch at the cafe. We munched on crispy oyster mushrooms, fried feta cheese and lamb tartar. Lots of fried food here in Iceland….I think it’s a thing. In any case it was pretty tasty, not sure I would try fried Feta again though.

    Opened in 2011 the center is the home to four music companies, the Iceland Symphony Orchestra, the Icelandic Opera, Reykjavik Big Band and Maximus Musicus. Construction started in 2007, but the financial crisis stopped the building from moving forward. However, in 2008, the city decided to fully fund the project and for 2 years this was the only construction project in existence in Iceland. In 2013, the building won the European Union’s Mies van der Rohe award for contemporary architecture.

    We continued our walk through one of the oldest neighborhoods and noticed something unusual about all the homes. Our virtual tour guide offered an explanation. The Great Fire of Reykjavik, started on the 27th of April, 1915 at 3 AM. Guests were just leaving a wedding celebration at Hotel Reykjavík on Austurstræti when they noticed a fire in the hotel. This fire became the biggest and most destructive fire that Reykjavík has ever seen. In a matter of hours, Hotel Reykjavík burned to the ground and then spread to neighbouring buildings, consuming a total of ten houses including Landsbankinn and Edinborg and partially burning others. Nearly all these buildings were made from timber. Sadly, two people died: a worker from the hotel who was asleep in his room at the time and a gentleman trying to save his house.

    After this fire, all houses and structures had to be built with fire resistant materials. This is when homes and businesses in Reykjavik started to have metal siding on all structures which exists to this day. They also retrofitted existing homes including the first house built in Reykjavik which is where we ended our day.

    The house over the years, was a home, a grocery store, hair salon, the home of the first catholic bishop of Iceland, restaurant and today, a museum. You enter the museum through this small very unimposing structure and you just sort of meander around not realizing how huge the museum is, I’m still not sure how they put all of the stuff in this small place.    Read more

  • Bill & Sheri’s Icy Adventure
    Day 6

    Reykjavik - Day Two - The Hallgrimskirkj

    November 5, 2022 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 39 °F

    This is the Lutheran Parish church of Reykjavik. It was finished in 1986 and took 41 years to build. It is the tallest church in Iceland and one of the tallest buildings standing at 244 feet tall. It was built in the expressionist style fashioned after the Grundtvig’s Church in Denmark and the Kirche am Hohenzollernplatz in Berlin. The original design was not quite as high but church fathers wanted it to outshine Landakotskirkja, the Catholic Cathedral of Iceland. There’s some sort of envy going on here, just not sure which kind. The organ inside the church has 102 ranks, 72 stops and 5275 pipes.

    It reminds me a little of the Discovery space rocket.

    The church is named after the poet Halligrimur Petursson the author of ‘The Passions’.

    A little about the religious journey of Icelanders:

    From the first settlement until 1000, the religious political organization was defined as pagan and anti-monarchist. The Icelanders followed Scandinavian norms and built temples enshrining images of the gods like Thor and Odin. The religion was named Godard or Asatru (Truth of the gods). Icelanders worshipped local spirits, but Thor was the primary deity.

    Starting in 995, Catholics attempted to convert Icelanders to Christianity, however they would not go easy. Attempts in 995 and 997 failed. During this time those attempting to convert the country by destroying temples and shrines (in many cases violently) drove the Althing (Icelandic parliament) to outlaw Christianity in Iceland. Iceland was under Norway’s rule and King Olaf Tryggvason (a Catholic monarch) suspended Iceland’s trade with Norway, their biggest trading partner and threatened to kill all Icelanders in Norway (what a guy).

    Well I guess that is one philosophy, if at first you don’t succeed try, try again, and if that doesn’t work, just kill ‘em. I guess they should be grateful they were spared that whole Crusade thing.

    In Iceland, civil war was about to break out so the Althing began mediation appointing Thorgeir Thokelsson, trusted by both the pagan and Christian factions, to decide the fate of religion in Iceland. He contemplated for one day and one night, and decided that in order to keep the peace, the country had to be united under on religion and that would be Christianity. However, pagans were allowed to practice sacrifice to the old gods as long as no one saw them…..a few years later this practice was abolished all together. In 1550, under Danish rule, the state religion was officially changed from Catholic to Lutheranism.

    Just a note: 80 Percent of all Icelanders still believe in Elves (Huldufolk - hidden people) so maybe that Nordic paganism isn’t entirely gone yet.

    There are 13 different types of Elves. They are territorial so don’t mess with them. Elves are just like us; they have homes, raise live stock, pick berries, etc. Elves live primarily in the rocks and environmentalists fight projects they believe will disturb or displace Elves. There is so much concern about Elves that the Iceland Road and Coastal Admin had to create a five page standard reply for inquires regarding disturbing Elven environments. It’s customary to leave food for Elves on Christmas Eve.    Read more

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