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Bavaria and Middle Rhine

august - september 2022
Et 22-dags eventyr af Wolpertinger Wanderings Læs mere

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  • RejsendeBavaria and Middle Rhine

    Munich Residenz

    3. september 2022, Tyskland ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    The Residenz is the city palace of the Wittelsbach family, the former ruling family of Bavaria. Originally built in the late Fourteenth Century. Expanded and remodeled many times, and including a theater and ten courtyards, the building that stands today mostly come from the time of Ludwig I of Bavaria, being remodeled at his orders between 1825-1835.

    The complex is vast. You can visit a series of royal apartments, including both public and private rooms. There's an antiquities hall, a huge collection of porcelain, the theater mentioned above, a church, the treasury, and a hall that houses the Bavarian Academy of Sciences and Humanities. Much of the complex was destroyed during World War II, and while a good deal of it was reconstructed by the 1980s, parts were lost and not replaced, and work is still ongoing.

    We didn't see all of that, of course. We saw the main halls including the Stone Hall, and Antiquity Hall, the royal rooms, the porcelain collection and the Treasury, both of which are getting their own posts, along with more on the FB page if you're interested in dishes, jewels, and overdone rooms. The amount of detail in the rooms is amazing.

    Unfortunately, the power when out in most of the complex when we were only partway through, and we decided to call it a day. And unfortunately, it was raining again. Badly.

    I would definitely recommend a visit, especially if you like Rococo and Baroque art. The Treasury is definitely worth a look. Unfortunately, due to the weather, we didn't get to see the gardens. Maybe another time.    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeBavaria and Middle Rhine

    Residenz Porcelain Collection

    3. september 2022, Tyskland ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    I like porcelain, apologies. I hope to get to Dresden and Meißen someday to see the collections there. This was a good start though. Technically, one of the pictures isn't glassware, but it looked nice. Thankfully, this was one of the areas that had good lighting, despite the power outage.Læs mere

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  • RejsendeBavaria and Middle Rhine

    Residenz Treasury

    3. september 2022, Tyskland ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    aka the Wittelsbach Bling Cache...

    And there was a lot of bling here. In 1565, Duke Albrecht V proclaimed the Wittelsbach treasures should never be sold, and apparently most of them weren't. We got a free audio guide with each admission, so we were in here for a long time. I know more about the Wittelsbach hoard than Smaug did about that big bed of treasure he slept on under the Lonely Mountain.

    Included in the collection is a reliquary of Emperor/ Saint Heinrch II, just the golden box and jewels, the relics are missing, and the crown jewels of Bavaria.

    A piece that really caught my eye: the crown of Empress (later Saint) Kunigunde, wife of HRE Heinrich II. His crown, the one worn by Charlegmagne and every emperor thereafter, is in Vienna, given to the Austrians after WWII by the US government. I won't comment further.    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeBavaria and Middle Rhine

    In München Steht ein Hofbrauhaus

    3. september 2022, Tyskland ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    I know this is a tourist move, going to the Hofbrauhaus. But then again, there are a lot of Stammtische, regular's tables where you BETTER NOT SIT DOWN UNLESS INVITED in the main room, so who knows. It doesn't matter, we're tourists, they had beer, giant pretzels and live music. We were going.

    And we went. Sloshing through the pouring rain and gathering puddles between the Residenz and the Hofbrauhaus. We all know about this place, right? It has its own song! But brief history... Duke Maximillian I built a brewery in 1589 because he didn't like the local beer. It was opened to the public by King Ludwig I in 1828, and the rest is history.

    So we went to the main room, where the music would be. It was huge. High, painted ceilings, long tables, wait staff in Trachten, the men in Lederhosen and suspenders, the women in drindls. It was loud. Wild. We wandered around to find a table, but found people had draped their stuff on the extra seats, or had deliberately sat in such a way as to make strangers joining their table difficult. This is bad, really bad manners. We were just going to have to Philly up and tell people to MOVE THEIR STUFF or something. I was trying to figure it out in German as well as English.

    So we wandered around once, then again. As we were passing one of the Stammtische near the stage, a little old guy with a huge beer in front of him waves us over. He invited us to sit, ok, kind of yelled at us in German to sit down. We thanked him. He tried to talk to us, but quickly figured out he might as well talk to empty chairs, because we were that stupid. Very grateful to little old German man, who everyone in the place seemed to know.

    So yay, Hofbrauhaus. We ordered beer, nice Hofbrau dunkles. We shared a portion of Krustenschweinebraten-- slices of pork roast with the fat cooked to crackling, with dark beer sauce and potato dumplings, and a huge pretzel. It was good, I was surprised as the place doesn't have a great reputation for food, apparently. We ate, listened to music. The nice old man tried to talk to us again, by this point he didn't seem to mind that we didn't really speak enough German to have a conversation. Before the band went on every member of it stopped by to say hello to him, so he must have really been a fixture in the place.

    It was a good time. We tried to buy him a beer but he either didn't understand us, or didn't expect it. We thanked him and left, seeing that there was a break in the rain.

    Back to the hotel, and so ended our transition day in Munich. A lot more to see here as well, but another time, hopefully.    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeBavaria and Middle Rhine

    Mittenwald, Germany

    4. september 2022, Tyskland ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    This was the Alpine visit we planned originally, before we saw the pictures of Königssee. We kept it in the schedule because there were definitely things we wanted to do here. We chose Mittenwald originally because we wanted to see the Alps, and it was a smaller, cheaper town/ village than Garmisch. It's also less frequented, especially over night, by non-Germans, so that would make things interesting.

    It was an uneventful morning. We woke up, left our hotel, got some money from an ATM because the place we would be staying was cash only, as many things are here in Germany. The neighborhood was a little sketch, but better than downtown Philly. Still, it doesn't hurt to be vigilant. After securing our colorful Euros, we got breakfast at one of the few places that was open that early-- a bagel place. Yes, I went all the way to Germany to eat lox and bagels.

    Quick breakfast in the room, pack up, hit the streets. It's Sunday, everything is closed. This is also the norm in most of Germany, stores closed on Sunday, except in and around train stations and such in bigger towns and cities. This is changing apparently, in places like Berlin and Hamburg (no surprise- eyeroll), and museums and restaurants are open, but stores, big no.

    Train is on time, which is good. There had been an horrific accident earlier in the year between north of Garmisch resulting in several deaths, injuries, and very bad damage to the tracks, so DB is running busses from Murnau to Mittenwald. The service was flawless. We got off the train, onto nice busses, and off we went.

    After a stop in Garmisch, which looked okay, a bit overcrowded, we were back on the road to Mittenwald. The bus left us off at the front of the train station. So far, so good.

    The town is beautiful. As an American imagining a town in the Alps, it doesn't get much better. There's Lüftlmalerei everywhere, and not just in the pedestrian zone or on the public buildings and hotels. It's on people's homes, stores, and it's all very beautiful. There are flowers in all the window boxes, in planters along the streets. Through the main street of he pedestrian zone is a little run of water.

    This place is a dream. We passed a lot of places to eat, ice cream shops (of course), the violin museum and giant violin (Mittenwald is famous for its violin making, and has been for centuries). We kind of got off course, found our pension, but no one was there, as we kind of expected. Check in is at four, and they stick to their schedules.

    Besides that, though, we're off to a good start. But what to do? Go back down to eat, maybe have our first döner.    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeBavaria and Middle Rhine

    On Top of Karwendel

    4. september 2022, Tyskland ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Well, since time was short, we decided to use it wisely. See, I'm learning to pivot and be flexible. I had a plan for Mittenwald, and it didn't include wandering around the town on our first afternoon with our bags. I had each day laid out, and when we were standing there, forlorn, looking at the locked door of our pension, I thought-- screw it, time to be flexible.

    New plan. Go down to the train station and leave the bags in a locker. Cross the river, and ride the Karwendelbahn up to the top of the peak. The Karwendelbahn is the second highest gondola in Germany after the outside Grainau that takes you to the Zugspitze. The peak isn't the second highest, that's in Berchtesgadenland somewhere, but the gondola station is.

    Anyway, that's what we did. Thankfully there was a large locker. We left the bags, crossed the tracks, and made our way to the station. It was uphill. Pretty steep at points, but I managed. Thank goodness for those overpriced, novelty hiking poles I bought in Berchtesgaden.

    We paid our entrance, there was no line, so when the car came down, we boarded. Before we left a family group got on. I felt bad since we were in front, and they had two little kids, so I let them get in front. The little boy was thrilled and was talking to us in German (yeah, I'm dumber than a three year old). His sister, not so much. She stood there with her eyes closed, and her mother explained she didn't like heights. So it was only half of a good deed.

    The ride up was fast. Not as dramatic as the ride up to Montserrat outside Barcelona, meaning I didn't feel like we were going to smash into the side of the mountain. At the top is a restaurant, a trail around the area and up towards the summit of the peak, and a sketchy tunnel through the mountains that leads to the trail you can hike from the valley to get up there. That trail was way above our pay grade, we didn't even think about it.

    Here's the ride, complete with appropriate musical accompaniment. It's five minutes long, but worth it, shot through the bluish glass of the gondola. And oh, yeah, we didn't know we should turn the phone horizontally. Our bad.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Amhf2Xbl3ag

    At the top, we had lunch. I had the schnitzel this time, with a Bavarian beer garden favorite called obatzda which is a cheese spread with onion, caraway seed and paprika. Herr Hai had weisswurst and a pretzel with sweet mustard, a traditional breakfast in Munich, but we didn't get to try it there. We shared. Everything was good. The obatzda was much better than when I tried to make it at home the previous Christmas. Looks like I need a new recipe.

    At the top-- wow. There aren't enough superlatives in my vocabulary. I might have been up this high in Yellowstone, but this was more stunning. 7,360 odd feet above sea level, with mountains marching away to the south and east, and Mittenwald, its two lakes, and more mountains to the west.

    We walked along the trail, which got quite steep at times. Then there were the sheep. They came up from the grassy bowl in the middle to hit the hikers up for food and petting. No thanks. They didn't want to give way, and I didn't want to push them or touch them or anything, afraid to hurt them. Herr Hai had no such compunction and we made our way passed.

    We also went part way into the Dammkar tunnel. I don't think this was one of the famous "Nazi tunnels" of the Alpine Fortress where they hid treasures and planned to wage a forever war, like the ones around Garmisch. It just seemed to be a tunnel that connected the top of the mountain to the ski area below. If you hike up from the town, you pass through it. We didn't go far into it, though, and probably should have gone through to the other side.

    We didn't go up to the summit cross. It was a bit too high and rocky for me. I had a little attack of vertigo at one point. I couldn't walk. I just froze, unable to turn or move. Thankfully I worked through it, or I'd still be up there. But the views (and the schnitzel) were worth it.

    More pictures on the FB page, as always.    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeBavaria and Middle Rhine

    Beautiful Views and Hazelnut Windbeutel

    4. september 2022, Tyskland ⋅ 🌙 61 °F

    We checked into our pension with no problem at the appointed time. The owner is a Scottish man who's lived in southern Bavaria for twenty plus years. The place is nice, besides some weird streaks on the ceiling. Second floor, nice balcony overlooking the street and beyond the Karwendel mountains. And, there was a wolpertinger in the hall, so I took it as a good sign.

    We didn't unpack since we'll only be here for a few days. We also didn't stay in the room long. We were hungry, and the place we wanted to eat was on the same side of town, but way up on a hill towards the north. So off we went, taking a lot of pictures on the way.

    I'll say it again, Mittenwald is a really beautiful town. We didn't get to see Berchtegaden at its best, but I think Mittenwald is prettier. Or rather, Mittenwald has a lot more "Alpine charm" packed into a small area. So many of the house are decorated, there are flowers everywhere, and it's surrounded by towering mountains.

    This place was a whole complex, with pricey hotel, dining room, etc. Since we didn't have reservations, and Germans are big on reservations, we were seated outside. We were really Germanized now though, and actually wanted to sit out on the terrace. Various pork with mushroom cream sauce and schnitzel, which often comes served with fries.

    That was all well and good. Food was nice. Service was German. They really expect you to be ready with a drink order seconds after you sit down, which we have to get used to. But the main reason we trekked up here, put up with a stuffy headwaiter who was scandalized we didn't have a reservation and told us quite haughtily, "Well you must sit outside, then..." was for the windbeutel.

    We missed having one of these in Berchtesgaden, where there was a well regarded place that specialized in them. It wasn't convenient to get to by bus, and the only free day with decent weather we had to get up there, it was closed. So I found this place online, and said, what the heck.

    When the time came to look at dessert, we asked about them, a hazelnut one. The waiter-- who was actually a pretty friendly guy for a German waiter-- looked pained and said, "We might not have any."

    Wow, super disappointed. He went off, and then didn't come back for a while. We were looking around, trying to find him so we could get our check and make our way back to the pension before it got dark. Then, he appeared with this enormous, absolutely lovely Windbeutel, or as we say in the US: a cream puff. Six out of five stars. It's a good thing we walked so much, and up so many hills, because this thing was a heart attack on a plate.

    He dropped it off and asked, "Just one?"
    Yeah, just one.    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeBavaria and Middle Rhine

    Leutaschklamm, part 1

    5. september 2022, Østrig ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    After a restful night sleep on a comfortable bed, we were up and ready to go. The only problem was, breakfast wasn't served until eight. This was a huge drawback for us, as we're definitely people who like to get out early and start our days on vacation. But again, we adapted. It was vacation afterall.

    Breakfast was good, except for the liverwurst. Warm croissants, fresh pumpkin seed rolls, various meats and cheeses with butter and marmalade. Coffee in much smaller cups than we have at home, but he left the pot. It was clear we were the only non-Germans in the place, but we were getting used to that, as it was the case in Berchtesgaden as well.

    So the plan for today was to walk to the Leutaschklamm, a gorge with roaring water and one waterfall. It crossed the border between Austria and Germany, as our hike around the top of the mountains had the previous day. This was one of the three things we really wanted to see in Mittenwald, along with the two lakes and the ride on the Karwendelbahn.

    Off we went. Instead of walking into town and taking the bus to the entrance (and it would have been free with our guest card), we decided to walk out the upper back end of town, and then out to the gorge. It looked easy and clear enough on the map. Just walk down the street, make a right, then another right.

    WRONG. We turned too soon, I think, and ended up on another road. A road with no pavement. A road that gained horribly quickly in elevation in spots, and had switchbacks. A road that took us into Austria, and passed one of the many small roadside shrines that are all over the area, on both sides of the border.

    Okay, fine. We would just go into the gorge from that side. And we did. Eventually. The gorge, which is a favorite among the Instagram set, was gorgeous. Apparently there's one place, a bridge that crosses over it, that is THE PLACE to get your picture taken. People wait in lines to do this. We weren't quite sure where it was, but as we were the only people walking through the gorge for the longest time, we figured we'd find it and give it a shot.

    The trail through the gorge is a series of metal/mesh walkways and bridges. They hang onto the side of the rock face, and cross over at points. It's themed now, with stories about various mountain spirits, and portions called things like the Witches' Kitchen, the Devil's Pond, and Hell's Horror, not to mention the pay-for portion, the Ghost Gorge. There are informational signs along the way at several points, but everything was in German so I did my best to read them, which wasn't very good.

    The gorge is long and narrow, apparently the longest in the eastern limestone Alps. The water flowing through it, the Leutscher Ache river, is a beautiful pale blue, even without filters. At points, you can look straight out to the east and see the mountains rising up in the distance, at others, you're surrounded by jagged rocks and prickly pines, the water churning beneath you.

    We ran into a few other intrepid early birds as we got deeper into it. Then, we found it. Nobody was waiting, there was only one other couple there. So we too our pictures. Yay.

    Eventually, we found our way out. There was a switchback trail through the woods, and we took it. Somehow we had missed the Gleisterklamm, the part with the waterfall. Never fear though, because by the time we got to the bottom of the zig-zaggy trail, we were right by the entrance, on a nice long FLAT road leading back to Mittenwald, the way we had planned to come.    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeBavaria and Middle Rhine

    Leutschklamm 2, Ghost Gorge

    5. september 2022, Tyskland ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    So we made it through the Gorge, not carried off by any witches or devils, or falling into any hell ponds. We also didn't run afoul of any Instagrammers. But we did end up where I wanted to start, as I mentioned previously.

    This was the part you had to pay to get into. It's much shorter, and the path runs right above the river. You really get a feeling for the power of the water going through this part.

    After finishing it, we merged back into the section we had done earlier, and walked all the way back through. On our return journey, we passed the Instagram bridge, with people waiting for their turn to take a photo. What we noticed, wow, we had taken our photos facing the wrong direction.... This social media influencer thing is just not for us.

    We were happy to make it out the other side, because we had another big adventure. My idea, natch. We were going to hike back down the road (thankfully it was down), and cut off on a side trail to hike up to this restaurant that was half in Germany, half in Austria. Not that that's such a big deal in these Schengen times, when you can wander willy-nilly across borders at will. In fact, we had crossed from Austria into Bavaria and back a couple times just this morning.    Læs mere

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  • RejsendeBavaria and Middle Rhine

    Up the Mountain and Down Again

    5. september 2022, Østrig ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Like the noble Duke of York, but with just two, not 10,000, we were off to our next objective, the Berggasthaus Ederkanzel, and lunch. Our plan: to find the trail up the hill/ mountain, and get to the place. We'd eat, then hike down the other side, ending up at one of Mittenwald's two lakes.

    We walked along the road. No signs for the trail. No signs OF a trail. I read about it online, so it had to be true right? People suggested this was a good way to get to this restaurant. Well maybe trusting random strangers on the internet isn't always the best way to plan a vacation adventure.

    Finally, Herr Hai said, "I see a trail, let's just take it." I didn't see anything remotely looking like a trail where he was pointing. However, since it was reminiscent of my trip with our oldest daughter, when we were driving across the Navajo Nation and I said I saw the town of Window Rock, and she said I was crazy, there's no town there... I was right. So I went with his vision.

    It turns out, it was a trail. A forest service trail of some sort. Whether we were supposed to be on it, I don't know. It was steep. In places, steeper than that jinky trail up on top of Karwendel. No switchbacks. Not much of a trail, to be honest, just some tamped down dirt weaving around trees and over rocks.

    At one point, as I was dragging myself up using said trees, we saw some people coming down. They looked to be in worst shape than I felt, and I almost asked, "Is there truly a restaurant up there?" But I didn't want to know, in case there wasn't. Then I'd probably have to start biting Herr Hai.

    Then, as if by magic, or a lot of complaining and dragging my body up a mountain, there was a clearing. Turkeys! The place we were looking for was famous for serving turkey at certain times of the year, so it had to be it.

    And then, there it was. We crossed the border back into Bavaria as we walked around the verandah of the restaurant. It was crowded, but the place did have a parking lot so maybe some of those people had been smart enough to have a car and drive up

    It was a nice lunch. We decided to split two dishes: Kartoffelpuffer (potato pancakes) with apple sauce, and Leberkäse. Leberkäse, which contains neither liver nor cheese despite the name, is almost a meatloaf like dish. It's made of pork and who knows what, maybe veal, ground to a paste, flavored with various spices, maybe even that mystical German secret ingredient Maggi wurze. This version had a fried egg on top and was served with potatoes and something approximating a little salad on the side.

    With a couple beers, it was the perfect lunch after all that climbing and whining and lamenting about how we were lost and would be eaten by Tazelwurms, never to be heard from again.

    After that, we were ready to close out the day, even though it was only early afternoon. One more objective remained, then we would probably pass out in bed and not wake up until the middle of the night. But first we had to walk back down the other side. At least that was an actual wide trail, which made things a lot easier, even though we had to walk past goats.    Læs mere

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