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Bavaria and Middle Rhine

августа - сентября 2022
22-дневное приключение от Wolpertinger Wanderings Читать далее

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  • ПутешественникBavaria and Middle Rhine

    Nürnberger Volksfest, Teil Eins

    7 сентября 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    Author's Note: There will be a couple parts to this, because the use of images at this event, including the blending of various companies' IP was just amazing. I mean this in a good way. I was laughing at a lot of these things, things we'd never do in America now.

    We got on the tram, the stop was directly in front of the apartment building. Convenient. We were still able to use our Bayern ticket-- basically a day ticket for all public transit in the entire state of Bavaria, good from 9 AM - 3AM on weekdays, all day on weekends. At the hauptbahnhof, we switched to another line, as per Volker's instructions. This tram was filled with middle and young high school aged kids, so we were obviously going in the right direction.

    When we got off the tram, I had a bit of a shock. There it was, LOOMING in front of me. The Nazi Party rally grounds. Those of you familiar with history, or film history, will know this as an important setting in Leni Riefenstahl's "Triumph of the Will". It's still there, having survived the war. There was a great deal of construction going on, and I'm not sure if the museum is opened, but we weren't planning on a visit on this trip.

    So there it was. This looming structure, the first surviving obviously Nazi structure we've seen here. It's used for various things now. It's been built out again, and has exhibitions along with the Documentation Center museum, and the fair grounds. That's where we were headed, to the open space along the water.

    So this Volksfest wasn't what I had expected. I thought it would be more of a traditional thing, or have those elements. This was a straight out carnival. Lots of rides. Lots of food choices, some quite interesting. Lots of families and young teens. Think of a really large church carnival, then add that LOOMING building behind it. The structure really put a damper on things for me.

    We didn't go any rides, though I was tempted by the giant, enclosed Ferris wheel and the swings. Not to mention the "American" log flume and whatever ride had the Minions on it. Like I said, the abuse of intellectual property was fabulous.

    It was loud, chaotic, and Herr Hai was getting a little antsy. Crowds sometimes aren't his thing, so we found a place to eat, and decided we'd do that, then beat it back to the apartment. We had a lot planned for the next few days, so we needed some rest.

    For dinner: German fest food. Local beer, a really long wurst, and of course the traditional small Nürnberg wursts, the Drei im Weggla-- three in a roll. Also fries with mayonnaise, because that's what they do here. On our way out, we bought some Gebrante Mandeln, sugar roasted almonds. They had a lot of sugar roasted things at the stand, and maybe we should have gotten some more.

    Pictures incoming, two post worth...    Читать далее

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  • ПутешественникBavaria and Middle Rhine

    Nürnberger Volksfest Teil Zwei

    7 сентября 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    More pictures, few words. I'm sure everybody's happy about that. The American flume ride is featured here, and they also had a "Wild West" funhouse, but the pictures weren't great. Not to mention American 100% beef hot dogs!

    The food is in this post, and I liked the wurst, the Drei im Weggla was good, kind of like a sagey breakfast sausage. I also liked the fries, which were very crisp, with the mayonnaise, they had a nice garlic flavor to them. The almonds, not really. I don't know what I expected, but I think I would have liked them better if they were walnuts or pecans, because honestly, what's not to like about nuts coated in cinnamon and sugar?

    I put in that picture with the pig- just because it was pretty scary. On a kids' ride. Weird.    Читать далее

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  • ПутешественникBavaria and Middle Rhine

    Kaiserburg, Nuremberg

    8 сентября 2022 г., Германия ⋅ 🌧 61 °F

    Busy day today, a lot of sites to see. We're really rushing through this trip, because I said, we don't know if we're ever coming back. If I had my way, we'd go a lot slower, and see a lot more. Having said that, on to stop one.

    We walked from the apartment passed the Maxtor and into the old city. We wandered around for a while, visited a church with a stark interior (Nuremberg was very Lutheran, back in those days), saw some statues, passed the Judengasse. One of my goals, find the remnants of the old Jewish ghettos/ neighborhoods in the various towns and cities we visit.

    Our first stop was the Kaiserburg, the Imperial Castle of Nuremberg. It has a long and storied history, dating back to around the year 1000. As with many of these immense structures, it was added to, expanded, and changed over time. It was almost completely destroyed in World War II, and took over thirty years to be restored to what it is now. Like the Hohenfestung in Salzburg, this place is enormous.

    The Kaiserburg is important in German history as it was one of the many complexes used by the King of the Germans/ Holy Roman Emperor, and which in fact, hosted every one of them up through the Thirty Years War. The KoG/ HRE had no permanent abode, but rather traveled among various fortifications in the very spread out realm.

    The Kaiserburg, however, was on that every single one had to come to. After being crowned, it was traditional, not sure if it was statutory, that the HRE meet with the Diet in Nuremburg. There are many stories about the long processions of various Emperors coming through the gates, up the Königsstraße, and into the fortress. They even have a shadow play of this in one of the museum rooms of the castle.

    So we're going to an amazing historical complex. We bought the expensive ticket, no cheaping out here, which included the Sinwell Tower and the Tiefer Brunnen. The tower, with it's rickety wooden steps winding around provides an amazing view of the city. The Tiefer Brunnen-- the deeper well, has existed from the foundation of the structure, the only interior source of water for the complex.

    There's a lot more I can talk about, but it's all out there on the internet. I will say, besides the tower and the well, the places I was most interested in seeing were the Palas, which was the official residence of the Emperor when he was there, and the Kaiserkapelle, the Imperial Chapel. The chapel was designed with multiple levels, and a hole in the ceiling, providing separate levels for worship, the emperor up above, everyone below, reflecting the medieval hierarchy.

    So a few posts with pictures. I could go on about these guys, Frederick Barbarossa, the various Henrys, Ottos, etc, but I'll leave that for another time.

    We toured the museum, chapel, and as I said, the tower and well. Lots of pictures. Lots of armor, weaponry, and interesting things. Even just walking around the grounds without paying to go in is worth the walk up the hill, though I highly recommend visiting the inside.

    In this post, I'll be sharing the shots of the backside and one of the courtyards of the Kaiserburg, because that's the way we entered, a model of most of the complex, the outside of Tiefer Brunnen, and the candles they send down the wall, to show how deep it is.    Читать далее

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  • ПутешественникBavaria and Middle Rhine

    Sinwell Tor and Views from the Top

    8 сентября 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Here are the pictures we took of the ascent (not very many steps) and the views from the Sinwell Tower. It was an overcast, rainy day, and I would be interested in seeing how it would look in better weather. Or snow. I'd love to get pictures in the snow.

    There are also a few from just around the courtyards, and the front way in, and one is a photo of the view of Burgstraße, right below the castle, after World War II.    Читать далее

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  • ПутешественникBavaria and Middle Rhine

    Kaiserburg Part Three, Inside

    8 сентября 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Some pictures from inside the Kaiserburg, which houses a museum as well as just allowing you to tour the interior spaces. Included are views of the chapel, including paintings and sculptures of emperors and their empresses, including (I'm pretty sure) Saints Kunigunde and Heinrich (we'll be seeing more of them later in the trip, I hope), and Karl der Große, who most people know as Charlemagne. Not that he was ever in the Kaiserburg, but the importance of establishing legitimacy for the HRE led back to him for centuries, until the Hapsburgs, and don't get me started on THEM.

    Speaking of the Hapsburgs, the ceiling tiles (right before the illuminated manuscript) are reproductions of the tiles put in for a visit by Charles V (Hapsburg/Spain/sacker of Rome/opponent of Martin Luther/nephew of Katherine of Aragon).

    Then there's the orb. Looks imperial, doesn't it? You might ask, and you would be right to, well where is that beautiful crown of the Holy Roman Emperor, dating back to Karl der Große? That famous crown, with the big cross on top? You know, the one that maybe should be in Nuremberg, as every HRE for the longest time was compelled to come her and meet his electors? Well, maybe, you'd say, maybe Julie, it's in Aachen, you know where they were actually crowned. Well, you'd be wrong.

    It's in Vienna. Because when the Hapsburgs locked up the title, they took it with them. They kept it, long after there ceased to be a Holy Roman Empire. Hitler brought it back after the Anschluss, but the US government gave it back to the Austrians after the war. This is (as you can tell) a sore spot with me. To paraphrase Indiana Jones, "It belongs in a museum..." Yeah, in Germany, like the Aachen Cathedral Treasury.

    Oh, and Herr Hai chose the picture with the spears. He was insistent I put that in, along with the picture of the tower from the window.

    I could have easily spent an entire day in this place, and look forward to going back.    Читать далее

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  • ПутешественникBavaria and Middle Rhine

    Sankt Sebaldus

    8 сентября 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    This was the first of three churches in our objectives for today. We visited this one first, because it was closest to the Kaiserburg.

    Sankt Sebaldus, named for the city of Nuremberg's patron saint, is one of, perhaps the, oldest churches in Nuremberg. Originally built in the Thirteenth Century, it added more Gothic elements in a general sprucing up in the 1480s. The church contains relics of Saint Sebald, the English missionary who came to preach in the area. It was customary for emperors to pay their respects to the saint, stop and pray here, when they visited the Kaiserburg.

    Now, the church is an Evangelical (for my American readers Lutheran) church. Nuremberg was a city with a lot of wealthy, well-read, merchants, and they pretty much came to their own conclusions on where they stood during the Reformation. Even though it was still an Imperial city-- they didn't much care. They had their rights and charters and to the Devil with an emperor telling them what to do in terms of religion.

    As you can see, the Reformation in at least parts of Germany was very different from elsewhere. There are still many beautiful things in the church: statues, windows, altarpieces, and while not used in worship, they weren't destroyed. I'm looking at you-- Puritans in England and et cetera... While often Martin Luther himself is credited with saving the beauty of German churches (he opposed the wanton destruction of images), I have to imagine the good and thrifty Burgers who paid for the churches here didn't want to see their investment get trashed, even when they were the ones who supported the Reformation.

    While I appreciated the High Baroque churches of southern Bavaria, especially the Asam Kirche, these are really more to my taste. They're darkish, heavy, filled with colorful stained glass and saturated altar pieces. The woodwork is also pretty amazing, something for which this region Franken/Franconia is known.

    Additional fun fact: the composer Johann Pachelbel was the organist here 1695-1706. Imagine, coming to church on Sunday and he's playing the music.

    Unfortunately, all of the church pictures, and some from around town, were taken not with our real camera, but with my less than wonderful phone. We had three batteries for the camera. We were sure we charged them fully. Well, they were all empty after the one in the camera ran out. NOT HAPPY.    Читать далее

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  • ПутешественникBavaria and Middle Rhine

    Frauenkirche

    8 сентября 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Another Church of Our Lady, and you'll find one in most large, old, German cities as devotion to Mary was an important part of German religious life in the Middle Ages. This one, built at the behest of Emperor Karl IV (or Charles, if you prefer the English way) in the 1350s, was built on the site of a former Jewish neighborhood. After the Black Death reached Nuremberg in 1349, the residents of the town drove out the Jews in a pogrom. The synagogue was destroyed for the building of the Hauptmarkt-- the market place in front of the church, and then Charles ordered the church to be built as the new imperial church, and had his son baptized here. The church became Lutheran in 1525, but reverted back to the Catholic Church in the early 1800s. It was almost completely destroyed in WW II, and mostly restored by 1953, with a further period of restoration work in the late 1980s.

    Architecturally and artistically: this was the first Gothic hall church in Franconia. It has three of the city's oldest surviving stained glass windows. The Tucher altar is the considered the most important panel painting before the works of Albrecht Dürer. The Mannleinlaufen-- the glockenspiel in the tower of the church, which was created in 1509, depicts the scene of Karl IV (he who exiled the Jews) promulgating the Golden Bull of 1356, the edict which set the conditions for governing the empire. During World War II, the figures were removed from the tower and along with many other treasures, hidden in the art bunker beneath the city.

    There's a statue of Edith Stein. A convert to Catholicism from Judaism in the 1920s, she became nun, and was executed at Birkenau in 1942. She was canonized by Pope John Paul II in 1998 under the name she chose when she entered the Carmelite Order: Theresa Benedicta. If you're interested, here's a short biography:

    https://www.vatican.va/news_services/liturgy/sa…    Читать далее

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  • ПутешественникBavaria and Middle Rhine

    Lorenzkirche

    8 сентября 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    The last of the triad of churches we visited today was Lorenzkirche, or if you prefer, Saint Lawrence Church. Another beautiful Gothic church, construction began in the 1250s, and finished in the 1400s. Apparently, Lorenzkirche was one of the first churches to "go Lutheran" in 1525, but as with Sebalduskirche, the people who paid for the beautiful interior weren't really keen to destroy it.

    Because of that, there are two pieces of significance still in the church. I'm assuming these were also stowed in the art bunker during World War II, because the Lorenzkirche was really flattened in 1945 by both aerial bombing and artillery strikes. Despite that, Veit Stoß's hanging carving of the Annunciation, and Adam Kraft's tabernacle are still there, and pictured below.    Читать далее

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  • ПутешественникBavaria and Middle Rhine

    The Castle Gardens

    8 сентября 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    None of this is in order, by the way. I just put the churches all in a row, and am adding in other things we saw thematically, rather than chronologically.

    The weather brightened up. Sun came out. It got warmer. We had something to eat (more on this later), and wandered in the area by the Kaiserburg. There were gardens along the side, some having belonged to the castle, the other I'm not sure about. Very nice. A lot of flowers and greenery. I can see a benefit of traveling this time of year, or earlier in the summer, versus winter as had been our plan: seeing these gardens in bloom.

    Also, at the end, a very exciting picture of black squirrel, straight from Mirkwood.    Читать далее

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  • ПутешественникBavaria and Middle Rhine

    Walls, Towers, and Albrecht Dürer

    8 сентября 2022 г., Германия ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Nuremberg was the home of the artist Albrecht Dürer, who is credited with being the first artist who actually signed his work. He was famous for his woodblock prints, and the incredible detail in them. We didn't go to the small museum in his former house, just stopped by to look at the outside, take a picture, then went across the street to have something to eat. We also didn't take any pictures of the rabbit statue nearby-- it's famous-- because I didn't like it.

    On a return trip to Nuremberg, Dürer's house and the art bunker will definitely be top of my list. For this trip, as rushed as it is, we're not going to manage either.

    After eating, we found our way up into one of the towers the Tiergärtnertor, and walked for a bit along the walls. From there, back on the trail of churches and general ambience. The walls are thick in places (see the picture of the tunnel, and i made sure to get a picture of an arrow slit, as well as a few views from above.

    A note on lunch: I was going to get the carp, as that's a very popular Franconian dish. I'm not usually a fish person, I didn't grow up eating it (besides fish sticks on Fridays in Lent), but when in Franken... I decided against it because it wasn't cheap, and if I didn't like it, Herr Hai wouldn't trade with me. He really dislikes fish. So instead, I went with another Bavarian specialty-- Schweinshaxe, but just a portion, not the whole thing, served with a dark beer sauce and potato dumpling. It looks dry in the picture, but was really good, the crackling especially. Herr Hai got Nurembergwurst cooked in water, vinegar, spices and onions. Beer. It was all good.    Читать далее

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