Mostly Saxon Christmas Markets

November - December 2024
Finally, the Christmas Market trip, but in a different part of Germany. Saxony, the home of German Christmas traditions, and Thuringia. Read more

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  • The Festsaal

    November 30, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 41 °F

    Maybe I'm easy to impress, but I loved this room. It was difficult for me to pick only twenty photos. Lots of weird shots of decorative details, but this room... There was a woman doing a demonstration/concert of Medieval-Early Modern music, and if the hall wasn't set up for shows, I'd have probably taken a lot more photos in there.

    This was the main hall. I'm thinking it was probably where the Sängerkrieg took place, if it was a real thing. If you've ever been to Crazy Ludwig's Neuschwannstein in Bavaria, the hall there is a copy of this one.

    The performer was really good, unfortunately all those chairs and people were in the way. One video. Poorly shot. Badly edited. Okay, chopped off to fit the under one minute limit. I'll post the whole badly shot thing somewhere at some point.
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  • Museum and Luther's Room

    November 30, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 43 °F

    Just a few more, then back to Eisenach.

    After I finally got dragged out of the Festsaal... No, they were going to do a puppet show next and I don't like puppets, so I left voluntarily. Next, we went to the museum, then down the long, narrow, darkish corridor to the room where Georg the Strong hid Martin Luther, and where Luther began his translation of the New Testament into German.

    Not much bling in the collection (remember, that was all stolen by the Soviets), but some nice historical things. The last three pictures are Luther's room, not the fancy one earlier on.
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  • Wartburg Christmas Market

    November 30, 2024 in Germany ⋅ 🌙 39 °F

    Finally, right? Isn't this trip supposed to be about Christmas Markets?
    Well, not entirely. But here it is. It was a nice market. Some interesting food choices and vendors. Some cos-players, some pretty good, some just honestly weirdos, and I'm saying this as someone who used to be a weirdo myself. But in a good way.Read more

  • Augustinerkloster

    December 1, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 27 °F

    Building began in 1277, and continued into 1300s.
    Includes the chapter house, cloister, tower, priory and St Katherine's chapel. In 1482 two Woad houses were built: one for storage of grain, the other to process woad-- the blue dye that helped to make Erfurt's riches. The monks traded in woad to fund the monastery.

    Had a notable school, which was started in the early 1300s.
    Martin Luther entered the monastery in 1505, was ordained in 1507, and was at the monastery intermittently until sept 1511.

    He stopped at the monastery and preached outside of it on his way tot he Diet of Worms (and little child Lutheran me was so disappointed to learn that no, the “evil Catholics” didn't make him eat worms) in 1521

    During the beginning of the reformation, the prior supporter Luther, and distributed Luther's writings. In 1522 many of the monks followed Prior Johannes Lang in leaving the Order and becoming Evangelical. When the last monk died, the town council took over the property.

    It was used as a school, then part of it reverted back to the Evangelical church. It also housed an orphanage, and in the 1800s, a school for orphaned and neglected children.

    The property suffered considerable damage during WW2, leading to the deaths of 267 people who were sheltering there. The Fourteenth Century stained glass windows and many of the books survived, having been removed and stored elsewhere. Today, you can visit the cell Luther lived in after his return from Rome in 1511, and there's a picture of that. Also, the grave of the founder of the monastery, which is where novices would prostrate themselves when they took their vows-- got that too.
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  • Augustiner Brewery, Erfurt

    December 1, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 39 °F

    Lunch time. Tired of Christmas Market food, which is not good because we have a lot of time ahead of us. Had my German goose, so that's another objective off my list. It was good. And Augustiner dunker, good as always. Venison schnitzel was good, but goose was better. I never had it before, but apparently it's the quintessential German Christmas meal.Read more

  • Alte Synagogue Erfurt

    December 1, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 41 °F

    Also on our list for today, was the Alte Synagogue and the remains of the mikveh, the Jewish ritual bath which was discovered during work by the Kramerbrücke.

    The structure dates back to Eleventh Century, though most of the building are from the period 1250-1320. It is believed to be the oldest intact synagogue surviving in Europe. You can see traces of the former dancehall decoration on the upper floor.

    The Erfurt Massacre of 1349, a deadly pogrom against the town's Jews, occurred. Those who weren't killed were expelled, and the building passed into the hands of a private owner. In the following centuries, it was used for various things including warehouse space, a ballroom, and a bowling alley. Because of the structural changes all of these conversions caused, and the fact that it was located out of the way, the building survived the Nazi period.

    Today, the Alte Synagogue houses a museum that contains the Erfurt Treasure: a collection of silver coins, gold and jewelry that had been hidden by Jewish residents before the 1349 massacre. Also on display are copies of significant Jewish religious texts dating from the Twelfth to the Fourteenth Century, including a copy a record of oral Jewish law. The original manuscripts are in the Berlin State Library.

    The mikveh can only be visited by special tour, and no pictures in the treasury. So sorry: no bling and only two shots down through the glass into the mikveh one without flash and one with, which is pretty far under the current street. Also, the Kramerbrücke, near the location of the mikveh.
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  • Residenzschloss Dresden

    December 2, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    Made it to Dresden today, checked in, got some lunch, and went right to objective one: the Residenzschloss,

    This royal palace was home to the Electors, then the Kings, of Saxony from 1547-1918. There was an old school keep built here in the Middle Ages, but the building was extended and imporved in the mid 1460s, with subsequent renovations and stylistic changes in the Sixteenth Century. After a fire in 1701, Augustus the Strong rebuilt much of the castle, including adding the collection rooms, where he kept his hoard of treasures and art. To mark the 800th anniversary of their dynasty, the Wettins renovated the schloss again in 1889, adding the Neo-Renassiance elements and modernizing it by putting in-floor heating and electricity.

    Much of it was destroyed in the Dresden bombing, including the Green Vault which held the best pieces of Augustus' treasure. However, the actual collections had been stashed down the Elbe in Königstein Castle, also on our agenda over the weekend. Restoration was begun in the 1960s, and continued after Reunification, with the State Apartments being completed in 2019.

    Today, the Residenzschloss houses five museums: a collection of coins, a collection of prints, drawings, and photographs, the Dresden Armory and Turkish Chamber, the Historic Green Vault, and the New Green Vault. You can also visit, as mentioned above, the state apartments of the Saxon Electors, though there was a collection of clocks and furniture in the rooms, only a parts actually looked like they might have in the Eighteenth Century. Nice, but not what I expected.

    The Historic Green Vault has 3,000 odd pieces of jewelry on display. Everything is out, in front of mirrored walls. Augustus the Strong created this collection in order to demonstrate to his lucky guests just how wealthy and powerful he was. And weird quirk, you had to wear green so as not to disturb the visual ambiance. Now, you just need a timed ticket. No pictures, unfortunately.

    The New Green Vault also has a heap of expensive treasures. No timed tickets and photos are permitted. Everything is locked up though. They had a lot of similar things to the Historic Vault: the elaborate vessels based around all sorts of natural objects like ostrich eggs and coconuts, ivory, ruby glass, rock crystal, elaborate pictures carved on cherry pits, and of course, the jewels.

    In November 2019, thieves infiltrated the display and stole among other things, the Polish-Saxon crown jewels. The stolen items were valued at over 130 million dollars. The culprits were caught relatively quickly, as they belonged to a notorious Berlin crime family. The location of thirty-one of the items were given up by some of the suspects in the attempt to negotiate a deal. They're now back on display.
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  • Dresden Residenzschloss

    December 2, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    The Residenz Treasury, a small selection of the Wettin family bling hoard. Of course the really good stuff is in the Historic Green Vault, but this was pretty amazing.

  • Striezelmarkt Dresden

    December 2, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 39 °F

    Christmas Market overload. There are a lot of Christmas/Advent markets in Dresden. A Medieval market in the Stallhof (the old horse watering courtyard) in the Residenzschloss, the Adventmarkt at Neumarkt, the market at the Frauenkirche, there's a Finnish market somewhere and across the Elbe is the Augustusmarkt, which is apparently the international market.

    Then, there's the mother of all Christmas markets, the oldest in Germany (though the city of Bautzen has something to say about that), the Striezelmarkt in the Altmarkt. In 1434, the Elector of Saxony Friedrich II and his brother Duke Sigismund granted the city the right to have a one-day meat market. It expanded as time went on, adding Christmas bread, and other goods. The market continued even during the DDR, though at different locations around the city.

    So we're here, celebrating the big 590th Anniversary. It's big. It's bright. It's chaotic at times. Everything I expected from a Christmas Market.

    I noticed a lot of wild game in all of the markets, and so far we've tried goose wurst and oxenbrot-- an ox meat sandwich.
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  • And the other ones...

    December 2, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 37 °F

    The other markets we visited tonight: the Medieval Markt, the Adventmarkt at Neumarkt, and the market at the Frauenkirche.

    The Medieval market was very well done, atmospheric. There were projections on the wall to simulate torches and snow. Most of the vendors were in costume, and the buildings were well done. The other two were a bit bougie, lots of nice trees at Neumarkt, and a bit wider choice of food than at the Streizelmarkt, including Swabian maultaschen.Read more