to nowhere in particular

syyskuuta 2023 - joulukuuta 2024
  • Jonathan Supertramp
no idea where i'm going, but i'll get there Lue lisää
  • Jonathan Supertramp

Luettelo maista

  • Japani Japani
  • Etelä-Korea Etelä-Korea
  • Kazakstan Kazakstan
  • Kirgisia Kirgisia
  • Uzbekistan Uzbekistan
  • Tadžikistan Tadžikistan
  • Kiina Kiina
  • Näytä kaikki (24)
Luokat
Maailman ympäri, Reppumatkailu, Liftaus, Soolomatkailu
  • 74,9tajetut kilometrit
Kuljetusvälineet
  • Lento22,7tkilometriä
  • Bussi17,1tkilometriä
  • Juna15,4tkilometriä
  • Liftaus10,2tkilometriä
  • Auto4 334kilometriä
  • Moottoripyörä1 427kilometriä
  • Lautta867kilometriä
  • Matkailuauto626kilometriä
  • Kävely426kilometriä
  • Polkupyörä405kilometriä
  • Patikointi38kilometriä
  • Tuk tuk25kilometriä
  • Cable car3kilometriä
  • Karavaani-kilometriä
  • Neliveto-kilometriä
  • Uima-kilometriä
  • Melonta/Soutu-kilometriä
  • Moottorivene-kilometriä
  • Purjehdus-kilometriä
  • Asuntolaiva-kilometriä
  • Risteilyalus-kilometriä
  • Hevonen-kilometriä
  • Hiihtäminen-kilometriä
  • Helikopteri-kilometriä
  • Paljain jaloin-kilometriä
  • 160jalanjäljet
  • 458päivää
  • 1,3tvalokuvat
  • 387tykkäykset
  • olympus

    18.–19. jouluk. 2023, Kreikka ⋅ ☀️ 4 °C

    (and the yapping award of 2023 goes to me, apologies)

    due to me laying down on my phone and overhearing the alarm i had set for 6am, me and estelle had to leave the hostel an hour later than planned. in about half an hour, we made our way to the main bus station, bought round trip tickets to the trailhead near litochoro as well as two sandwiches and some proper gloves and set off.

    after a smooth 90 minute ride, we arrived in the little town just below the mountain. it was as off season as it gets, so most mountain hardware shops and all info points were closed. we still managed to find an open tour guide agency, where we were told that all the shelters were closed and the snow would be too deep and the distances too long. we were happy to ignore most of this advice, as the young girl behind the counter frankly didn't look like she had ever set foot on that mountain anyway.

    we did however, due to it being 11am already, decide to hire a taxi to get us all the way to the trailhead further up the mountain, saving us almost 2 vertical kilometres. after having a look at the local monastery, we bought two silver-gold emergency foils and called a taxi service. the driver brought us as far as he could with summer tires and we started walking.

    the hike to the planned mountain shelter was surprisingly hard, but the four days worth of rations on my back might have played a role there. after two hours, we managed to find an unfrozen wayer spring where i bottled a couple litres for later. some time later, we arrived at the shelter. it was indeed closed, but had an emergency room, just like we had suspected. take that, front desk lady.

    temperatures were super mild, but after (a beautiful) sunset it got frosty pretty quickly. we smoked out the entire room in an effort to get a fire going, which to our own surprise, actually worked. had some dinner and luckily didn't die of carbon monoxide poisoning in our sleep.

    we were in bed by 6, so i had plenty time to make plans. originally, i had wanted to do a four day tour, each day going 10-25 kms with at least 1.5k vertical distance. although estelle would accompany me for two days, she would have to turn back the next day to pick up her shift at the hostel. because we hadn't seen a single soul on the mountain and the exhaustion of the first little section put my planned hikes into perspective, i decided to play it safe and leave with estelle after just two days on olympus.

    we got up at 6 and started walking in the dark. there was a singular pair of tracks leading the way, the only sign of life we encountered for two days. soon, the horizon around us got brighter and turned scarlet red and we switched off our head torches. the sunrise was the most vibrant i have ever seen, in the distance across the bay you could even discern thessaloniki and the three peninsulas of mount athos.

    snow got deeper quickly and we realized pretty quickly that we wouldn't make it to the summit plateau and back if we kept this pace. estelle decided to turn around two hours in and meet me back at the shelter. in order to be quicker, i drank as much water as i could, ditched the backpack and went onwards with only three chocolate bars, an emergency blanket and good spirits. the sun was scorching down at this point, so i didn't expect many complications.

    just an hour of ridge walking and a short scrambling section later, i already found myself on the plateau just below the summits. never thought i would be almost 3000m up a mountain in late december and only need to wear a base layer, but here we are, with sunburn being the biggest danger of the trip. i followed the tracks to the top refuge. i had been faster than expected, so i decided to just push up the rest of the way to the next best summit (turned out to be toumba, the sixth highest). a stunning view awaited me up top, took plenty photos.

    i was back down at the shelter before the clock struck 12. met estelle, who had spent her time drawing the landscape, munched down 5 sandwiches and started the descent back down to the trailhead. to our surprise, we immediately found two americans taking a driving break there, they agreed to give us a lift back to litochoro. arrived there two minutes before the bus and ran to the station just in time.

    in conclusion: awesome trip, no issues at all, kinda surprised myself with how well we did the second day, but i will be back some day to make the proper summit.
    Lue lisää

  • thessaloniki, pt 2

    19.–26. jouluk. 2023, Kreikka ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    spent another week in thessaloniki with the people from the hostel waiting for christmas to come around. the typical day didn't change much from before.

    one day, i decided to go up chortiatis, the highest mountain next to thessaloniki, for sunset. took a bus as far up as possible and had to walk cross country through fields, forest and brambles until i actually found a path that wasn't made up by my gps. some stray dogs creeping around me, but they stayed cool. only some shepherd dogs got a bit upset at me and i had to flee.

    made it to a great little spot to watch the sun go down but decided to turn around before reaching the top because my phone was dying and i could see rain coming in.

    i also sent a post card to my family, but i haven't heard anything about it so i probably fucked the adress or something xd

    some of us were sitting in a bar on the 23rd when the clock hit midnight and i said merry christmas. the others were as confused as me when we finally realized that celebrating on the 24th is apparently just a german thing, so all i could do was call some friends and family and entertain myself walking along the shore. i was a bit sad for about five minutes, but managed to knock it off really quickly.

    however, the 25th made up for it. the italians cooked a bunch of stuff, we watched a movie, played a round of chess and then went off to a little free rave in the city. the music selection was a bit off, half way through, a guy just started rapping. still good fun.
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  • kalambaka

    26.–27. jouluk. 2023, Kreikka ⋅ 🌙 8 °C

    ups and downs

    i felt it was time to leave, i had lingered around for too long again. the one last thing i really wanted to see in greece was meteora, huge rock formations with a bunch of monasteries on top.

    taking the bus there was already an adventure, but after about five hours i made it. i did, however, forget to charge my powerbanks, but oh well, why do i carry around a solar panel with me. it was already 9pm and dark and i wanted to sleep in my tent to offset some of the bus ticket costs. after a bit of searching, i managed to find a good area behind a freeway in construction, using a drainage tunnel to get there.

    every household here has at least one dog, and they're not trained to be friendly. walking though the village, you always have dogs barking at you from at least 3 angles, so i was happy to find that very secluded spot next to the highway. the signs were even already there, so i climbed one of them and had a great view of the huge rock walls towering over the kalambaka. tomorrow, i'd surely wake up with a good view.

    set up my tent, ate what was left of my rations. grocery stores are closed for 3 full days during christmas, so said rations included nothing but an apple and some water.

    woke up for sunset, took some pictures, then went to get some groceries. on the way back to the town, i had to cross an area where there are just a couple farm houses and workshops with nothing much in between. except stray dogs, as i had to find out the hard way. all of a sudden, i found myself surrounded by a particularly unfriendly pack of five barking dogs trying to bite my legs. thankfully, it wasn't the last thing i expected, so i already had a stone in hand. thankfully, i kept my shit together pretty well and managed to get out of there. from that point on, i always had to take a 15 minute detour around the open area.

    went for a hike the same day, and the landscapes in meteora absolutely blew me away. definitely top 3 of everything i've seen so far. it's like the saxonian alps, just way bigger, more culturally important and with snow-capped mountains in the background.

    after walking the whole day, i got back to my tent extremely exhausted because of the intense sun exposure. it was so warm that i went shirtless for a couple hours. my powerbank had also charged very well in the sun. i looked into some connections back to thessaloniki and istanbul and realized that i could leave the same day and be in istanbul by noon the next day, so i started packing up. i had pretty much seen everything on my tour and to be honest, i did get a bit paranoid about the dogs, because i had noticed lots of tracks in some mud close to my tent and also some construction workers close to the highway. no need to get busted by the police so close to turkey, where it'll finally be completely legal.
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  • night bus to istanbul

    27.–28. jouluk. 2023, Turkki ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    i managed to get the last seat on the bus to thessaloniki at the local ticket office, got onto the bus and everything went smooth and i arrived in thessaloniki happy and well. except i didn't. as soon as i got onto the bus and off the phone with my mum, i realized i had symptoms for a sun stroke. started shivering, got super hot and pale in the face, ice cold everywhere else and pains in every conceivable part of my body. by the time i was i thessaloniki, i was fighting the urge to pass the fuck out and miss my connection to istanbul. also, i had found the room key of the hostel in my pocket, so i had to go and return in within the two hours i had before the next bus.

    somehow stumbled to the hostel (midnight at this point) and got back to the international bus terminal. the ETA came and went, no bus in sight. was super lucky to have a lady from the bus stop tell me that this particular company didn't use this terminal, so i ran over to the other side of the building where the bus, to my even bigger luck, was still waiting for me 7 minutes after it should've departed. the turkish attendants really weren't too happy with me, but it was so worn out at this point that i couldn't have possibly given a single fuck. fyi, the description of the bus gate on my ticket read "close to the main station". thanks for nothing.

    spent the next 11 hours in zombie mode, but luckily felt much better by the time we hit the turkish border, so i was actually able to appreciate the experience a bit. the turkish border post is huuge and pretty neat, and while waiting to get my passport stamped, i heard the typical religious chanting from a mosque located on the premises for the first time. that's when realization kicked in that i was going to a very different place now.

    driving into istanbul is equally impressive. it's probably the liveliest city i've been to so far, and some of the buildings along the way are mind blowing. just getting off at the bus station was already chaotic as hell, bunch of vendors shouting from their shops, people trying to lure you into a conversation with the typical "how's it going bro" and taxi drivers almost dragging you into their cars. managed to find a trustworthy mobile shop to sell me a prepaid sim card for some internet and got my first turkish dürüm from a super friendly restaurant owner. 2€ well spent.

    after some more complications, i got to my hostel, fell asleep immediately and didn't wake up until late in the evening. travel days are no joke man
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  • istanbul

    28. jouluk.–8. tammik. 2024, Turkki ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    that first evening, all i could manage was a shower, a short walk outside and a çaj tea with the hostel worker, then i fell right back into bed. i did however bump into mike (i probably didn't mention him earlier) from the hostel in thessaloniki, just on a random street in the middle of istanbul.

    the next day, i moved to another hostel, which was a bit more pricey but way bigger and more spacious, located in the nightlife district taksim. i wanted some good company to celebrate new years with, so i figured it'd be worth it.

    the next days consisted of eating cheap turkish food and exploring every corner of the city, while the nights were reserved for a pinch of partying and not so much sleep. i stayed there for a full week and was able to attend breakfast a grand total of two times.

    i knew that i would be in istanbul for a while, so i got onto tinder and bumble again. among others, i met ipek, who turned out to be a fellow couchsurfer. she promptly invited me to stay with her for a couple of days, and so i did.

    i had a bunch of new impressions i could talk about, but that would take ages, so here's the low down:

    - first time (except the us) where i experience things that are truly new to me, not just recycled european cities
    - istanbul has like 25 mil population, so it's an insanely big, lively, at times very chaotic city
    - everywhere you look, you see gigantic turkish flagpoles or huge illuminated mosques in the distance and you hear muezzins singing from the minarets all the time
    - super friendly people, but in a genuine way and not obnoxious at all
    - lots of stray cats, some are insanely big and people care for them well with food and shelter
    - no more 18yo 1 month europe travelers to be seen in the hostels like in italy / france
    - government and police are very keen on image and security (also, police drives ferraris and bentleys they confiscated in some big razzia and park them in the touristy areas)
    - 1 in 4 wears women wears a hijab, a couple even full niquab
    - there were no fireworks on new years eve, everybody just took to the streets and cheered

    fantastic city, can only recommend 👏
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  • bolu

    8.–9. tammik. 2024, Turkki ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    time to leave istanbul behind. on hitchwiki, i had heard of a great hitchhiking spot where people would offer to take you to basically anywhere in turkey in a matter of minutes. because i myself couldn't really decide where to go next, i figured i'd just stick the thumb out and see where it takes me.

    by the time my clothes were dry and i was ready to go, it was already 3pm. just getting to the rest stop in the first place would take almost 2 hours, by which time the sun would almost be down already. ipek invited me to just stay another night and go early the next day, so i did.

    i had a great view over all of istanbul crossing the bridge to the asian side for the final time, leaving europe behind for good now. i arrived ar the alledged super rest stop just to find the gas station closed. there were just a couple of truckers taking a break there. i decided to give it a shot anyways and was picked up after about 20 minutes by a truck driver.

    he spoke just enough english and german to understand that i was trying to reach a big city. he said he would take me to a good spot where it would be super easy to catch a ride. i climbed up into the cabin and we drove for 15 minutes. then all of a sudden, he just pulled over to the emergency lane and stopped. in the middle of nowhere.

    i explained that it would be dangerous here and that nobody would stop, so he drove me a couple of metres more to a toll station. i had to cross the highway to get to the right side, but luckily the police and toll units didn't mind. hitchhiking really seems to be hassle free in turkey. i got a lot of smiles and greetings from the personnel there.

    even here, there were almost exclusively trucks coming through. i started waiting. an hour went by, nothing happened. , one of the toll station staff came up to me and handed me a bag with water, cookies and fruit. he made my day. i hadn't packed any food at all, so the guy really saved me. spirits went from low to high again. after a bit more waiting, finally a car with swiss license plates stopped. it was going to istanbul, i declined and mentally prepared to spend the night somewhere in the nearby woods.

    finally, just minutes before sunset, a pretty young truck driver picked me up. he was going to düzce, halfway in the direction of ankara. i jumped in and he gave me wifi and dj privileges. the drive was way more scenic than expected. after two hours, we stopped at a rest station and he invited me to join him in the truck driver cantine. i was very much out of place, but finally got some real food in me.

    shortly before eight, we arrived and he dropped me off in düzce. i had no idea what to do here and just decided to check the bus terminal for any rides to bigger cities. here, google maps and other travel apps aren't reliable anymore, so you actually have to go there and ask around.

    after some complications and with a lot of help from google translate, for a couple of euros, the lady behind the counter sold me a ticket to bolu. waiting for the bus, i met a man that had lived in germany for a couple of years, who had somehow managed to figure out my nationality just by looks and started speaking to me in german, helping me with the boarding.

    arrived in bolu pretty late when shit went sideways. getting off the city bus from the bus station to the center, i noticed that my credit card was missing. checked my pockets multiple times, nothing. froze it via the app and already contemplated what my next steps would be. turns out it had slid into my passport, huge relieve.

    still no idea where i'd sleep that night, so i just went to the cheapest accomodation i could find. neither was it a hotel, nor a hostel, nor an apartment building. more like an actual old-fashioned guesthouse. i had to knock on the wooden door of an old house with one of those metal door rings. didn't have much confidence that the place would still be open, but then a tiny, old babushka opened the door and welcomed me in.

    she didn't speak much english, so i spoke to her daughter over the phone. just 5 minutes later, i was already in my room, more specifically the toilet of narnia.

    for 16 euros, i had not only a three person room to myself, but also a breakfast included. i was served a huge platter with vegetables, bread, cheese, honey and more. the old lady even made eggs and çaj for me. 10/10 recommend.

    the only problem was the weather. it was already rainy and almost freezing. also, i had been warned that there would basically be snow storm that week, with temperatures dropping below -15°C. i wasn't really up for that, so i started looking up bus connections. when i found out that i could take a night bus southwest to izmir for a couple of euros, i couldn't withstand.

    now i just had to spend the day somehow. went to the grocery store, where a group of kids were very interested in me and my backpack, then checked the iranian embassy website to find that i was finally online again. filled in my visa application right then and there, agreeing to go to the embassy in ankara sometime soon to get the paperwork done.

    then, i decided it was finally time to get all my flag patches onto my backpack. managed to find a couple ladies in some basement that agreed to sew them on there. now, i really, really stand out. i no longer look homeless, but like an actual traveller, and the staring from others went crazy from that point on.

    many tried to start a conversation, i got two fee çajs in a matter of minutes and a shop owner dragged me into his kebab place to make me a free dürüm. these turks man, i love them. then finally, i met some turkish rapper and his mates, i was with them for a good hour. i was taught various turkish slurs and we even took shots from my leftover jäger. very halal. but all good things come to and end, it was time to head off to izmir.
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  • night bus to izmir

    9.–10. tammik. 2024, Turkki ⋅ 🌧 5 °C

    i walked back to the bus terminal, where i spent the remainder of my time journaling and catching up with my family. the bus arrived just as the snowfall began, and this time one of the staff actually spoke a bit of english. he must've been around my age and acted as my personal attendant for the rest of the ride. chill dude.

    the bus ride was one of, if not the best ones i've had so far, with big, comfy seats, personal entertainment screens and food and drinks included. i had the whole back bench to myself for the whole 10 hour ride. can't complain.
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  • izmir

    10.–15. tammik. 2024, Turkki ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    the bus arrived in the early morning, so i still had lots of time to kill until i could check in at a hostel. i had heard many good things about izmir, but my first impression pretty much consisted of garbage, potholes and poverty.

    nonetheless, i was able to scope out a potentially good spot to watch the sun rise above the city and got on my way. busses here are even cheaper than in istanbul, you pay just 6 lira (about 20 cents) for a ride. i walked up a hill through a very dodgy neighbourhood, until i arrived at a castle-like structure at the top, where i froze my ass off for about an hour waiting for the sun to come up.

    i was at the hostel by 9, luckily able to check in right away. took a big nap, went grocery shopping. 700g of schnitzel for 2€, i think i'll stay.

    the first day, i went out to explore the city. everything looks very southern again, with palm trees and everywhere and everything looking a bit beige. one of my gloves flew away in the strong winds the day before, so i decided to take a trip to the outskirts of town and get new ones at the decathlon.

    izmir is a bay city, so taking ferries is often the easiest (and nicest) way to get around. arrived at the probably most luxurious shopping center i've ever been to. i don't know if i already mentioned this in earlier entries, but everytime you enter a public place, like bus terminal, mall, or museum, all your belongings get x-rayed first. looked around the store and ended up buying a trekking pole as well.

    the next day, i went out with a elias, another 19yo german i had met at the hostel and talked to for hours about anything end everything. we spent one or two hours at the bazaar trying not to get pickpocketed or scammed, then went to an archeological museum. also paid a couple cents to shoot a pellet gun at some baloons in the water.

    elias had to go to istanbul the next day, but he planned to go to pakistan and even afghanistan, so we decided to keep in touch so that maybe we could meet up in the future to go there together. that day, i tried to go to the izmir zoo, but the shuttle that was supposed to take me there never came, so i went to a chill spot at the shore and ended the day early.

    on sunday, i wanted to get out of the city a bit so i took the cable car up a mountain and went for a little hike. turns out that from the looks of it, the turkish aren't big hikers, i only saw 2 people in the hours i was up there. had a stunning view across the city to one side and untouched forest hills to the other. after climbing a transmission tower, i went off the beaten tracks and onto a small trail down to a nearby lake.

    the trail abruptly ended in what appeared to be a landslide, so i climbed up to a small road that was conveniently right beside. that road also ended soon, though, but this time, a house with a big fence just was blocking the entire path. i had to scramble up two hundred metres of rock face and scree (very happy about the trekking pole investment), but finally made it back to the proper road and decended safely back to the city.

    on monday, i had planned to hitchhike down the coast towards antalya, but a rain front came in, so i decided to just take a bus to fethiye instead. i feel like this time i really nailed the perfect amount of days to spend in one city, maybe it's because i have the deadline of having to be in antalya by the time my parents arrive.
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  • fethiye

    15.–18. tammik. 2024, Turkki ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

    i thought the bus from izmir to fethiye would take three to four hours, thurns out it's more than eight. i wrote an e-mail to the hostel staff to please wait for me after the 10pm check-in deadline and took an overpriced taxi to the hostel. arrived there just 15 minutes late.

    the hostel is a really nice, friendly place. apart from two cats and two great dogs, there were only two volunteers and robert, the only other guest, there, but we got along great, even cooked together.

    the weather the next day was warm and very rainy and stormy, but i still had to go out to buy some groceries. one of the guys informed me that i could take the bike, and so i did. not having been on one for months now, i had an unexpected amount of fun, even in the pouring rain. felt a lot like i was in vietnam, with the palm trees, the humidity and the lush green hills all around.

    later, i checked out the beach, took a walk up one of the coast rocks and took the bike downtown. fethiye and the surrounding are are perfect tourist destinations, maybe i'll come back someday and trek the lycian way.

    i stayed one day longer than originally planned, because i didn't want to waste great weather on a travel day. me and robert realized we were both planning to do a hike, so we teamed up to hike the first couple of kilometres of the lycian way. we had to take some minibusses to get to the trailhead, and for the second time in turkey, the police stopped to do a passport control. guess i'll have to get accustomed to it from here on.

    the weather couldn't have been better, i zipped off my pant legs and went in shorts for the first time in ages. the sea had turned from murky brown to the most vibrant turquoise i have ever seen in nature. the trail was pretty nice with great views, we even met a guy that planned to go all the way to antalya.

    booked a bus for noon the next day, said goodbye to everyone and reached antalya less than four hours later.
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  • antalya, pt 1

    18.–20. tammik. 2024, Turkki ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    got off the bus and checked into the hostel. super good vibes there. met another german doing the lycian way and a german-iranian guy from isfahan. and by the way, the rumors are true, you can substain a diet of nothing but freshlt picked oranges walking around the city.

    i figured my parents would drag me around to every sight in the city anyways, so i decided to take a day off and just stay in the hostel. we had a really fun jam session in the evening, superb vibes, everybody was great. even met one of the hostel guests from izmir again. maybe i'll come back another time, but first, a little vacation is in order.
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