to nowhere in particular

september 2023 - desember 2024
  • Jonathan Supertramp
no idea where i'm going, but i'll get there Les mer
  • Jonathan Supertramp

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Verden rundt, Backpacking, Haiking, Alenereise
  • 74,9kreiste kilometer
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  • Flyvning22,7kkilometer
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  • 160fotspor
  • 458dager
  • 1,3kbilder
  • 387liker
  • maybe i should take on of these signs to be more convincingel trainstationel empty ass busel hostel

    kočevje

    21.–22. nov. 2023, Slovenia

    here's a guide on how not get from ljubljana to rijeka.

    first, go to hitchwiki.org and read that it's far easier to go to zagreb first and then to the coastal towns from there. you'll also find a list of good hitchhiking spots. igonore all that.

    then, when it's just 4 hours to sundown, take the bus to the outskirts of the capital (which isn't much bigger than chemnitz btw) and walk for an hour to some gas station. get picked up by a chain smoking elderly couple after ten minutes. drive for an hour, then asked to be dropped of at a gas station in the middle of nowhere because you saw pictures of a bear there on google maps.

    third, inspect said bear (seemed to be in a trance or hibernation or something) and think of the things peta would do if they found out about this. stand in the rain trying to get a ride for two hours.

    finally get picked up and driven to a the same small town that the elderly couple was going to just before sunset. eat dinner (toast and chocolate spread) at what looked like a homeless shelter and give up hope for the day. walk another half hour through the freezing night until you find a spot at a lake where you can set up camp. watch two movies because it's still just half past five, then have a chat with your parents.

    if you haven't died of hypothermia yet, wake up at eight and realize that you picked a really decent spot last night. start packing up and be a approached by a slovenian man on a bicycle. ideally, this man should be the clingiest, most racist, antisemitic, unreflected individual you've ever layed your eyes upon. be given his email, because cell phones emit dangerous radiation.
    finally lose him after an hour and try to find a semi doable hitchhiking spot.

    next step, be picked up by a much nicer man, but be sure to go an hour northeast instead of southwest, where you planned to go. arrive at a border town and cross into croatia. try to get a lift for two hours, give up and then go back across the border to go catch a bus to the next city. almost get a pity lift from slovenian border control.

    walk half an hour, arrive at the bus station (or at least the spot where there should be one) and wait until twenty minutes after alleged departure time. decide to just walk the way that the bus should've driven you and jump some barbed wire and cross the border for the third time, this time not so legally via a closed train bridge (this will save you two hours of walking time).

    lastly, arrive at the train station and notice the overgrown tracks. be informed that an autobus now operates this line. watch another movie to pass the time and finally step foot into an empty bus that brings you to the next city. take the (only) train from there to zagreb, book a hostel, almost get caught without tickets in the tram and finally arrive in your room. where someone is puking out their soul.
    Les mer

  • zagreb

    22.–24. nov. 2023, Kroatia

    the temperature difference from ljubljana to zagreb was immediately noticeable. if i can make my way to split soon, average temperetures will be above ten degrees again. i had two nights booked, so i was able to spend a full day exploring the city. it's really decent, comparable to dresden.

    after a quite lot of searching, i was able to find the right croatian flag patch for my backpack. also bought a new book, moby dick - i've always wanted to read it and the five herrings wasn't really my thing. it's a huge book, so good thing i don't give a rat's ass about packability. i now have to bear the consequences, as my backpack (that i'm taking trail hiking now) weighs in at about 25 kilos.

    made half a kilo of pasta on the morning of check out, wrapped it in some plastic bags and threw it in the food bag. meal prep can be so easy. an hour later, i was already on the bus to rijeka. (i will hitchhike more, i promise)
    Les mer

  • rijeka, pt 1

    23.–24. nov. 2023, Kroatia ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    glancing out the bus windows, i was greeted with an amazing view of rijeka, the mountains and the sea. i already liked this place and couldn't wait to see it up from the mountains. but first i have to get there.

    for today's hitchhiking adventure, i came prepared. i had looked up good spots in advance and was determined to make good use of them. the best case scenario would be me in a mountain shelter before the end of the day.

    sadly, i underestimated winter again. by the time my bus arrived, the sun was already scratching the horizon. i decided to find a place to sleep first and try again with more time tomorrow. after half an hour of walking along the shore, i found an abandoned section of beach that condisted more of rubble and building parts than anything else. i think there was a mudslide of sorts and a building collapsed there, but for all things i care, it was perfect. also, it was right next not only to the picturesque port, but also to the hostel i would've stayed in if i hadn't found a camp spot. i managed to set up my hammock in between two big pieces of debris.

    the sun was already down and i was optimistic about spending a night like this, that is until i checked the weather again. obviously, google expected a good bit of rain. i didn't give up just yet and managed to somehow secure my tent floor mat as a makeshift tarp above the hammock. then, some heave wind came in and i could feel that my little construction wouldn't last the night. after hours of consideration, i finally packed up, checked in at the hostel and devoured the rest of my premade pasta.

    although the hostel was pretty cheap, i still felt beaten because i had literally just decided not to throw any more money into the wind and go proper low budget. it was either that, or to spend the winter working, probably in austria as a kitchen porter or lift boy or something. i decided against it though, because that would mean crossing the central asian desert in summer instead of spring.
    Les mer

  • don't judge the hair please

    rijeka, pt 2

    24.–25. nov. 2023, Kroatia ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    i've decided that hitchhiking in winter is shit. the time frame you've got to secure a lift between sunrise and sunset is so short that sometimes it doesn't even feel worth the try. also, apparently croatians don't like hitchhikers much either. i'll attach a heat map if i still have it saved.

    anyhow, as much as it hurts to blow up my spending limits further, i need a new powerbank if i want to go on a mountain tour for a couple of days without electricity along the way. the battery life of my phone hasn't changed at all, so the 70 i spent on the replacement were for shit.

    headed to a nearby tech store and bought the beefiest one they had. 30000 mah should be enough to charge my phone at least 6 times, so that should be more than enough. i hope it actually holds as much as it says, because my other powerbank obviously doesnt.

    i made it to the gas station i had scouted out earlier around noon, made a sign and started holding out the thumb. two hours and zero lifts later, i realized that i was in the wrong place because i confused two gas stations because of their almost identical names. headed to the actual spot, waited well past sunset, but nothing. at least my music and the panoramic view were great, so i had a great time all things considered.

    set up my tent right next to the highway, read some moby dick and watched some netflix and listened to some music. living the life.

    went to try again early the next morning (after a dog had found my tent and nicked one of my boots, which the owner kindly brought back), stood waiting for 30 minutes, within which a grand total of two cars passed. i realized that i might be stuck for good. the next shock was watching albus' story (the bikepacking french guy from ljubljana that was now well ahead of me in mostar) of pretty heavy snow in bosnia. the place where i was heading because i thought it would be warmer there. the frustrations of the last days and weeks were starting to take hold of my mood.

    i went back to the mcdonalds right next to my waiting spot and sat there for a couple of hours trying to organize my thoughts. i wanted to take my time through the balkans, but winter was pushing me. i wanted to hitchhike the way, but it was both illegal and, more importantly, more tedious than i ever could've imagined. i wanted to head to the mountains but lacked the equipment, time and backpack weight. all in all, pretty fucked. bored out of my mind at this point, i just wanted to get away.

    so, i found the cheapest connection for the longest distance, and that was a 40€ flixbus to sofia, bulgaria. it took a lot of fighting what's left of my ego, scince i was once giving up on my plans and taking the easy way, but once i saw the hostel prices there, i couldn't bear the thought of wasting more of my time and resources here. i promised to come back another time when the time was right and finish what i started here.
    Les mer

  • night bus to sofia

    26.–27. nov. 2023, Serbia ⋅ 🌙 -1 °C

    i was extremely lucky and got a double seat all to myself. slept pretty alright, all things considered. the two border crossings stressed me out a bit because i had forgotten to throw the weed away before boarding the bus, but everything was chill and i finally got my first passport stamps in serbia. i won't count it as visited though.

    watching the sun rise over the snowy bulgarian landscape was enjoyed thoroughly. from the first moment of arriving in sofia, i absolutely loved the city. people are super nice (and as i found out later on bumble they also look great), the snow-capped mountains are in the backdrop and everything has like a soviet flair to it. here's also the first time where i'm having trouble reading sings. it wasn't a problem a year ago, i'll just have to refresh my cyrillic.

    i did some forum research and found a great rave on saturday, so i think i'll stay for a bit, which, for the first time, doesn't hurt because the hostel is only 15 лв/ 8€ a night.
    Les mer

  • sofia, pt 1

    27.–30. nov. 2023, Bulgaria ⋅ ☀️ -1 °C

    having skipped an hour because of a new time zone (wohoo), i arrived at the hostel at 9am. had to wait 4 hours in the common area before check-in, but no problem at all - it's a really cozy place with good internet and super friendly people. in terms of sleeping situation, you get exactly what you pay for. a long room just under the roof with 9 beds on each side.

    the only thing i did that day was finding the next grocery store and buying some pasta bolognese. ate the whole pack. i slept really well considering the conditions. in the bed next to me, there was a brazilian girl who volunteered at the hostel in exchange for lounging. definitely something i'll consider if i want to stay for a longer time period in some place.

    the next day, i did a big calorie haul in a nearby lidl. the food prices are really good, maybe even better than in germany, i even hear rumors of a 3€ kebab. next to the supermarket, there was a fair that was shut down due to the snow storm two days earlier. must've been pretty rough, i heard one ot two homeless people even froze to death. that storm was also the reason for all the uprooted trees and fallen branches on the streets and sidewalks. back to what i was saying, the fair was abandoned and surrounded by huge soviet housing blocks. it was a great contrast, felt a bit like the photos i've seen of pripyat (some day, i swear).

    i also explored the city a bit. i think you can describe it as chemnitz-like, but if chemnitz was the capital and had some nicer buildings in the center. highlight of the tour was of course my best friend, decathlon.

    i went there to get some rudimental winter gear because in a couple of days, i was planning to summit musala, the highest mountain of bulgaria, as well as of the balkans. apparently it's more of a hike with a bit of scrambling at the top rather than any serious mountaineering. i could get to the trail head by bus from sofia and there was even a perfect wheather window from thursday to friday. still, it's not to be underestimated.

    there were still a myriad of problems ahead of me, but i was somehow able to solve them all. i had now entered a more analogue part of the world, and i had to figure out most things without much help from the internet. the plan was to wake up early on thursday, hop on a metro to yug bus station, from where a bus should leave to samukov, from where a bus should leave to borovets, from where i should be able to start the 27 kilometre 1600 vertical metre tour. i would have my tent and sleeping bag with me and set up camp just below the tree line. depending on time and exhaustion until this point, i would either make the four hour summit push the same or next day and descend back down on friday.

    back to the decathlon, i bought some light microspikes, a face mask and some rubber winter boots, only spent about 50€ altogether. after trying out everything, i felt confident to give musala a shot.
    Les mer

  • musala

    30. nov.–1. des. 2023, Bulgaria ⋅ ☀️ 1 °C

    everything went to plan, and even better. i woke up before 7 and was at the trail head before 10. against my expectations of being almost alone on the mountain, after a couple minutes of walking, i ran into vladimir. he was romanian and here with 4 friends to do the same thing as me, but all in one day. he invited me to tag along, and i was happy to do so.

    going with the group was more comparable to trail running than hiking. turns out these guys were the real deal - vlad told me that he had summited aconcagua just a month ago and was now in preperation for ama dablam. most of them were also ultramarathon runners, which explained the pace. i was really impressed by all this and eager to keep up, but the camp gear in my backpack made it hard. i ditched most of it after 7 kilometres, halfway up the mountain. alone, i wouldn't have dared to do the whole tour all in one day (meaning descending in the dark), but so far, the pace worked well for me and i thought it possible.

    that changed just a couple of minutes later when the snow depth went from ankle to hip. we were the only ones ascending that day, so the trail wasn't stomped out and we had to wade through the snow. it was hard, hard work and it took us two and a half hours to cover 3 more kilometres. the video i have on instagram shows adrian, the most seasoned of the team, plowing his way through the snow and making a path for us. without him, i would've surely turned around at this point. thanks to roxy giving me her spare pair of snow gaiters, i still managed to stay dry.

    after about four hours, we arrived at musala hut, which was, to the surprise of everyone, open. i had called two days earlier to see if i could get a sleeping place there, but nobody answered, so i had opted for the tent. it was now just 3 hours until sundown, so it would've been foolish to attempt a summit push. because of this, after resting for a couple of minutes, the romanians unfortunately had to turn back because some of them had to work the next day. but i had no problem staying the night and attempting the summit the next day. roxy actually insisted for me to keep the gaiters, because i'd need them. i also got an invitation for them to show me around the romanian mountains. what can i even say, just amazing people.

    i was the only guest - apart from me, there were just two women, one man, one baby and two cats up there. i was dead tired and went to bed at six, slept two hours and was wide awake by eight. through the window right next to me i could see right up to the summit, where a light shone from the weater station. watched some netflix to calm my nerves (i can't lie, i was quite excited) and slept four more hours before waking up at 3:50. packed up and was out the door by 4:15.

    the following hour was by far the hardest of the tour. this time, there was nobody to follow, no tracks, just deep snow. i had to go on hands and knees for hundreds of metres because i would've disappeared into the snow otherwise. if the terrain hadn't changed after that one hour, i would've had to give up. luckily, i didn't, and finally laid eyes on everest shelter 300 vertical metres below the summit. from here, i scrambled my way to the top across an exposed ridge. the wind was picking up a lot, but there were cables to hold onto.

    i finally reached the summit after 3 exhausting hours of climbing, just in time to watch the sunset. took videos and photos, met the guy from the weather station, ate my summit snickers and fucked off as quickly as possible, because with daylight came even more wind.

    on the way back, i chugged down a can of monster energy at the everest shelter. it took me 3 more hours to get all the way down to borovec again and i was completely in zombie mode for the last part. almost fell asleep standing while waiting for the bus, but was back in the hostel just 3 hours later.
    Les mer

  • these two brought immaculate vibes

    sofia, pt 2

    1.–6. des. 2023, Bulgaria ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    back in the capital, i stopped by the lidl again and took a couple hours of rest eating and sleeping. while making dinner, i talked to florida man garret, who i had met earlier and he decided to join me for tonight's rave.

    we headed out together (he was in the most business casual outfit ever, but i mean whatever you're comfortable in) and somehow made contact with a bunch of bulgarians in front of the club who all started to speak broken german upon noticing that i was from there. very common reaction in the balkans and you'd be surprised by the amount of "gutte tag" and "eins swei drei" i have to endure every day.

    after grabbing some drinks (finally got to try somersby blueberry) with a couple of the guys, we went inside as soon as the beat went from trap to more four-to-the-floor. the venue was a nice little dark basement club behind a record shop with really great music and crowd energy. met some great dancers.

    before i knew it, it was 7 am. i went back to the hostel, threw a pizza in the oven and went to bed. the next week i stayed put spending my days more or less in bed recovering from a cold i had caught at some point. on monday i got my hair cut (mullet-ish, i think i like it) and on tuesday, i was feeling pretty good and joined a group of travelers from the uk, greece, chile, italy and germany for a drink and a night out.

    one of them mentioned she had a car and was going to see the buzludzha monument the next morning and if anybody wanted to give her some company, so i was more than happy to join. after finally finding use for my month-old weed with lilia, valentina, margherita and gabe, i managed to squeeze in 5 hours of sleep and set off in the morning.

    (didn't take many pictures, so i'll substitute with snaps)
    Les mer

  • pictures from here get pretty shitty because the lens kept freezing

    kazanluk

    6.–7. des. 2023, Bulgaria ⋅ 🌧 7 °C

    i tried to leave the dorm as silently as possible and met lilia and margherita in the lobby. took a metro to the airport, said goodbye to lilia (who was going back to germany after 3 months of travel) and headed to the car rental. turns out margherita is a horrible driver but a great conversation partner, so the 4 hour drive was pretty chill.

    on the way to kazanluk, we saw a huge monument from the highway on the outskirts of stara zagora and went to check it out. we were both into brutalism, so we were absolutely amazed by this find. finally made it to our airbnb, got a 2,50€ kebab and called it a day.

    woke up at 5:45 to catch the sunset and drove another half hour to the monument site. it was foggy as hell, so we couldn't see more than 20 metres. not great for getting photos of the while thing, but perfect for setting the atmosphere. this monument had been on my bucket list for years and years now, so it was exciting to finally make it there. i'll let the pictures do the talking.

    it was insanely cold, so we had to get back to the car after just an hour to defrost. got back on the road, this time on a route that took us even deeper into the bukgarian countryside. the people here look almost turkish in complexity and facial features and most are very poor, living either in run down houses in small villages or endless commie blocks in the bigger towns. i'd say here i had the second big culture shock after the one in the us, especially after the perceived normality of sofia.
    Les mer

  • thessaloniki, pt 1

    11.–18. des. 2023, Hellas ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    after four more days of waiting in sofia (nothing worth mentioning really) my departure date to greece finally came around. had to hurry to the bus station in order not to be late, but the bus was nowhere to be found. there were other travelers as confused as me there and we had to wait an hour until it finally arrived.

    i'm getting really good at killing time on coaches now, the five hours to thessaloniki flew by like nothing. luckily no border controls again, but a girl from norway told me that the last two bus rides she took across balkan country borders had both been searched and one time, the serbian police dragged an american out of the bus because they had found some weed traces in his bag. "enjoy being naive as long as you can", someone once said.

    walked uphill to the hostel and received my first impressions of greece. especially the poorer quarters already feel very strange, if you were blindfolded and put there, you probably couldn't discern if you were in cairo, thessaloniki or ankara.

    checked in at the hostel, a small, cozy place with just a handful of people, half of them volunteers. everyone was super welcoming, i got great vibes right away. the supermarket however, gave me very bad vibes. the food is expensive as hell, especially given that greek people only earn like 700€ with minimum wage.

    i still stayed for way longer than i had planned. the weather window for mount olympus had closed, and after some research and seeing some videos of people climbing the peak in winter, i wasn't sure if i could do it at all. that was until a pair of two australians came into the hostel and told us they had just been up there a week ago. i got some great info from them and apparently, the snow situation is wayyy better than on musala. one of the french volunteers, estelle, even decided to join me for two days.

    in the meantime, we (an american, two french and a nother german) spent a lot of time hanging out together in bars, squatter houses and at the hostel with movie nights, chess and weed. finally, it had found its destiny. the other german guy, salomon, was also a great guitar player and kind of got me hooked on playing again. also had a tinder date and she got way to attached, oopsies.

    went to a museum for the first time in three months, i'll try to do it more in the future. can't just let my brain rot away. i started to tryhard chess again as well, playing at a better level now than ever before.
    Les mer