• Jonathan Supertramp
  • Jonathan Supertramp

to nowhere in particular

no idea where i'm going, but i'll get there Read more
  • panjakent

    Jun 6–7, 2024 in Tajikistan ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    we packed up our tents for the last time and followed one of the porters back down to alauddin village, where, we'd been told, a car with tourists would arrive around noon, which we could maybe take back down to civilisation. the scummy driver took full advantage of the fact that we would have to hike down 30 km if we didn't agree to his price, so the bastard got greedy beyond comparison.

    we got back, had some warm food, said goodbye to georg, who was going the other way, and got to hitchhiking again. the tour hadn't been a round trip, so we had to get back to the places where we had left the rest of our belongings. we split up and as usual, the others somehow arrived quicker than me.

    we met at the hostel in panjakent, where we spent the last night in tajikistan before heading west to country number eigtheen, uzbekistan.
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  • samarkand

    Jun 7–11, 2024 in Uzbekistan ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    samarkand was the perfect place to kick my feet up for a couple of days. it's nice and clean, the people are laid back and the prices are almost as good as in iran. also, it's probably the most touristy place i've been to in the last couple of months, so you don't even get that many looks walking down the street. except if you go for a run xd

    with the temperature well over 35°C every day, resting in the hostel was the best thing to do anyway, so i did just that. meanwhile, after two days, hannah and axel branched off to khiva, ending our travels together after more than 3 weeks. they definitely earned their spot on my "top 3 travel companions" list :)
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  • tashkent

    Jun 11–14, 2024 in Uzbekistan ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    tried to hitchhike to the capital from the outskirts of samarkand and got picked up pretty quickly. unfortunately, autostopping is pretty common here, and you'll quickly find a ride, but only if you're willing to pay for it. i told the guy multiple times that i wasn't planning on paying, and he told me to just get in. then as we were talking in the car, he kept asking around about money. i told him that he could just drop me off if he wanted me to pay for the ride and i'd find another one. he said it's fine, but in the end of course, he did want the full fare.

    i had multiple of these sorts of experiences, it just makes hitchhiking really annoying. it's not even about the money, it's just when people pick you up for a free ride, you know they actually want to have a good time getting to know you and not just because you look like a wallet on legs to them. anyways, enough yapping.

    tashkent is a petty nice place, but again, the heat made me stay indoors, where i got the typical ac cold instead. the bazaar and the wet market were pretty cool though. when exploring a park area, i also found myself in a disneyland-type complex, which was really goofy but also pretty. met a metro driver from london and she was very in awe of the subway system here. i concur.

    also, i had two epiphanies: firstly, i needed to get my diet back on track. the last 8 months of eating practiacally nothing but bread, sweets and pasta with ketchup have made me feel pretty unhealthy, so i have to get myself back together. and then secondly, while on the phone with my parents, i discovered that i was paying 5 or 6 euros for each and every transaction with the credit card i had been using for the last couple of months, thinking it wouldn't be too different from my stolen one. i want my revolut back 😫
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  • margilan

    Jun 14–15, 2024 in Uzbekistan ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    getting out of tashkent proved to be much trickier than i had assumed, and it was already 4 when i finally arrived at a good hitchhiking spot. coincidetally, that spot also turned out to be the place where all the locals going the same direction would gather to hitch rides, so i just joined them and found a guy that was able to help me get a place in a shared taxi going towards ferghana valley, the last stop before kyrgyzstan.

    one guy from the taxi invited me to stay at his place and i agreed, but by looking at the guys reaction, realized i had broken tarov (aka accepting an offer before denying it 4 times) and quickly backpedaled. then, i realized that i was going to end up in margilan way too late to find accomodation. luckily, i had some backup in town - i knew hannah and axel were currently in the area, and was able to crash at their place when i finally arrived there at 1am. it was cool to see them again.

    the next morning, i got right back to hitchhiking and ended up at the bus terminal, where i took a cheap bus to the next city, where i spent the rest of my uzbek cash on a car ride to the border, which took a bit longer to cross again because of my broken passport. the border is actually right next to osh, the second biggest city in kyrgyzstan, so i was able to just hike to my hostel. splendor.
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  • osh

    Jun 15–20, 2024 in Kyrgyzstan ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    the hostel in osh was super refreshing for me, because i could finally meet some western travellers again. had some nice discussions with a young swiss local politcian and played endless games with my newly bought card deck with matty from singapore and nadia from italy. also, another swiss dude gave me two sim cards that i could use in china. that's another problem solved.

    i also partially solved the heat problem by buying a light shirt at the bazaar. figured it would be a safe bet, especially for southeast asia. on the last day, i packed up and checked out, when i realized i had gotten so used to the austrians making plans that i hadn't done any research whatsoever and had no idea where to go next. i just spent the day researching and having a drink with the others and ended up staying another night xd
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  • arslanbob

    Jun 20–22, 2024 in Kyrgyzstan ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    i heard of this cozy little place called arslanbob that you could reach with a mashrutka bus, so i went to the bus station, only to find out i had missed the last one by an hour. i took a bus to nearby jalal-abad instead, walked for an hour and then hitchhiked a truck and a car up to the mountain town. when i arrived, there was torrential downpour and a pretty fat storm going on, so i sheltered myself in a bus stand. by the time it was over, i still had to walk, with a water canister on my back, more than an hour up to my camp spot, where i finally arrived around midnight.

    woke up the next day to an unexpectedly great view and spent a whole day journaling, watching movies and calling people. the next day, i took the little hike up to a waterfall. there were a bunch of domestic tourists being driven up the dirt track in jeeps, but i still had the whole viewpoint to myself. took a dip in the freezing river to cool off, packed up after hiding in the tent from another little rain shower and walked back down to civilisation.
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  • masy

    Jun 22–23, 2024 in Kyrgyzstan ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    i started hitchhiking again and was picked up by a man and his kids, and they invited me to stay with them for the night. i gladly accepted and they drove me to their house, where dinner was already waiting. we could only communicate via google translator, but they were still super wholesome, even took me to an ice cream shop.

    i had a whole room to myself for the night, and in the morning, after breakfast, i was taken to the bus station to get to bishkek. again, the bus was gone already, so i took 3 different shorter buses and then started hitchhiking again.

    an expensive suv drove by, but then turned around and offered to take me to bishkek for around 10€. i accepted out of desperation, but in hindsight, i should've just waited a little longer. as soon as i got into the car, the guy next to me started questioning me about my stance on putin, ukraine and whatnot and then told me that he was working in "counterintelligence" and showed me pictures of him in cobat missions in russia, vietnam, ukraine, saudi arabia and so on. he seemed weird though.

    we stopped for some food and they told me "you're our guest", which normally translates to "we're inviting you to eat with us free of charge", but in this case, they made me pay for half of their stuff as well. again, i shouldn't have just taken that. after hours of driving, we finally got to bishkek.
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  • bishkek #1

    Jun 23–26, 2024 in Kyrgyzstan ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    it was still hot as hell, so i was very happy to have a hostel with a pool. bishkek was also the first hostel with some cool younger people there as well, and there was always good bit of daydrinking going on. there really wasn't much else to do in the summer heat anyways. i did use the cool evening hours for a couple of runs though, and managed to complete my first half marathon in ages.Read more

  • karakol #1

    Jun 26–27, 2024 in Kyrgyzstan ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    i met two solo travelling brits at the hostel and decided to come along for a famous hike in the mountains near issyk-kul (that big fat lake). we hopped on a mashrutka and a couple of hours later arrived in karakol, where we just stayed for a night and left in the morning to start the 3-day trekking tour.Read more

  • ala-kul #1

    June 27, 2024 in Kyrgyzstan ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    we bought some groceries, took a yandex to the trailhead and started walking. the landscape was amazing, it's exactly what i imagine canada to be like. the trek is pretty well-known, so we saw quite a bunch of other hikers and also 4x4 jeeps shuttling asian tourists up to the yurt camp.

    the hike wasn't hard, but of course, like every time when i decide to go to the mountains, i got the shits, so i was a bit weak. mood was great though, it was banter the whole way. we arrived at the yurt camp and callum and i set up our tents, while tom negotiated a price to sleep in a yurt, where we also fetched some nice homemade dinner.
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  • ala-kul #2

    June 28, 2024 in Kyrgyzstan ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    tom had a train to catch, so he had to split off and head back to karakol in the morning. me and callum started working on the hardest section of the trek, about 1800m of ascent over a steep mountain pass to the ala-kul lake.

    i was back in good health, so i lowkey crushed the hike. callum was having a pretty hard time though. after a long day of walking, again with beatiful bob ross scenery, we finally made it to the lake camp though. we found a spot to set up the tents, made some ramen, then i watched a movie in my tent and called it a day.
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  • ala-kul #3

    June 29, 2024 in Kyrgyzstan ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    the last day was pretty much just decending everything we'd climbed up during the previous two days. there was an old mountain bus parked down in the valley, and the driver held up 6 fingers when we asked how much he would charge to get us down the rest of the way to karakol. it's more or less just a long straight path from there onwards, so we weren't cheating anything. 600 som are just over 6 euro for two persons, so we were more than glad to agree. i had a gut feeling though and sure enough, after checking again, the guy turned out to be charging us not six hundred, but six thousand. classic.

    we started walking again and it immediately started raining buckets. we had to take off our shoes to wade through a stream and i just decided not to put them back on and to see what these barefoot hikers were on about. to my own surprise, i managed to walk the remaining 8km and i'm not a hippie, but i do have to say it was pretty fun.

    after some hours of walking through the rain, we finally arrived at the regular taxi spot, where we managed to get a much more humane fare back to karakol.
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  • karakol #2

    Jun 29–Jul 2, 2024 in Kyrgyzstan ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    back at the hostel in karakol, they played the euro games every night in the common room. for some reason, this year, i got really invested in the matches and started watching quite a lot of them.

    other than that, i went to a local animal market with a french couple. we had to leave really early in the morning because apparently, people are there as early as 2am to have the chance to buy the good animals while they're still there. it was quite a surreal place. by the way, i still hadn't fully given up on my plan to buy a donkey, but they only had sheep, horses and cattle.
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  • tosor

    Jul 2–3, 2024 in Kyrgyzstan ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    finally, i went back to hitchhiking. it went pretty well, i got multiple rides in no time at all and got at the end of the day made it to a nice camp spot by the shore of issyk-kul. the thing is huge, and you can only see the other shore when it's really clear weather, so it really feels like you're somewhere in italy or wherever. this spot even had a sand beach.

    to my surprise, i saw a tent already placed in the spot i wanted to go myself. a young guy saw me coming with my water canister in hand and we got talking. the tent was his, and he was a hitchhiker from russia going the same way as me. he even had the exact same tent as me, it was crazy. i set up right next to him and we enjoyed the evening together, including a swim in the lake of course.
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  • kara talaa

    Jul 3–4, 2024 in Kyrgyzstan ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    the next day, we hiked to the nearby fairy canyon, probably the reason we had both decided to camp nearby. i expected it to be just a single instagram photo spot, but it was actually a pretty cool area to explore.

    then, we hiked back to the road and found us a ride to the next camp spot. it was nowhere near as good as the last one and full off mosquitoes, so my russian partner decided to hitchhike 2 hours back to where we had came from. i was pretty exhausted already, so we just split up and i stayed. after a while of searching, i managed to find a good place for my tent and even the mosquitoes went away. some guys came out of nowhere to check on me, but otherwise i had a great evening.
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  • bishkek #2

    Jul 4–7, 2024 in China ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    i said goodbye to lake issyk-kul and walked back through the prairie to the road. after a couple of tries, a trucker stopped for me and took me to the next city, from where i accidentally got into a shared taxi back to bishkek.

    when i walked through the door of the hostel, i couldn't believe my eyes - before me stood two very familiar faces. daniel großhans' and leonie kolberg's, to be precise. they're both super famous german bikepackers and i had known them from social media for years. i knew that they were in the rough area, but would've never thought i'd actually meet them randomly.

    we got talking after a while and it turns out they're super down to earth. there were also a lot of other germans, and one guy was a dj and invites us to come along to one of his gigs at a bar that night. a couple more people joined, we had one or two or more drinks together and headed off to the bar.

    the dj guy slayed, he played some slow techno and played over it with a sax. one time, a fight broke out all of a sudden and someone used pepper spray, which spread into everyones eyes, but other than that it was super cool. the bikepackers were the only ones to stay until the end and somehow, although they were as shitfaced as me, we made it back to the hostel at sunrise together.

    when it was finally time to leave kyrgyzstan and move on to almaty, i shared taxi and bus with a girl from alaska and it turned out that her friend, another person i'd seen at the hostel a couple of times, was also a travel influencer, even more famous than the other two, but more "romanticized". it's crazy to see the difference in how people portray themselves online and how they really are in person. in this case, danny and leo were both perfectly authentic, while the other one was on her laptop most of the time and didn't greet or say a word to anyone.
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  • almaty

    Jul 7–16, 2024 in Kazakhstan ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    every day, busses connect bishkek to almaty, the biggest city in kazakhstan. i went together with the alaskan i mentioned earlier, found the right terminal after some time, bought a ticket and got seated. when we got to the border, we both left some stuff on our seats, expecting the bus to go through customs and wait for us on the other side. it did not.

    while we were already going through border procedures, a kazakh guy came up to me and said we'd have to find a different bus on the other side of the border. for me, the loss was a bottle of coke plus some cookies, while for the other girl, it was headphones, powerbanks, chargers, clothes and all. she started panicking, of course.

    also, there was no other bus waiting for us, we had to walk through the border town for ten minutes to a random parking lot. don't know how we would've found it without the kazakh dude helping us. the bus from earlier was nowhere to be seen. we got onto the new one and started driving, when i saw out of the corner of my eye a familiar colour pattern. it turned out to be our old bus filling up at a gas station nearby. we stopped the bus and saved the day.

    after a couple more hours, we made it to almaty and shared a last taxi ride to our respective hostels. i met a scottish couple with their 5 year old there, they had just been backpacking india and nepal for 4 months, but other than that it was pretty boring and i went to another hostel after two nights there.

    that one was much better, but still not a social place. i had the opportunity to work out at the calisthenics park 2 minutes away and went on several runs. there was also a huge shopping center there, where i finally got some proper on ear headphones again, as well as some new clothes and accessories. i feel a thousand times more confident now in clothes that aren't just purely practical. all in all, almaty is a super livable city, pretty european by all standards. including nightlife, as i found out.

    there was this place called bult, a progressive techno club with a great crowd where i spent basically the entire weekend. it was great to be back in a proper techno club, which, in all regards, was just like what you could find back home. i met some cool people there as well, including a russian political activist. she had fled to kazakhstan when the war started.

    on the last day, i bought tickets for a bus to china and relocated to yet another hostel, this time the more popular international one that had been booked out the whole time before. had a hilarious evening with some 22-year old genius from stanfort and another british guy, rounding up my experience in what became one of my favourite cities so far.

    (and like that, dear reader, the diary gap has finally been closed. everything from now on will be fresh out the oven)
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  • yining

    Jul 16–19, 2024 in China ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    (while working on closing the time gap i've produced here, i'll start writing about china in real-time. that way i can throw in some fresh impressions. multiple timelines make for a better plot anyways)

    i saw a good couple of buses at the terminal on my last morning in kazakhstan, but mine wasn't among them. after a couple of minutes of "oh it'll turn up in a sec"; a guy came up to check my tickets. turns out my bus had somehow already left long before it should've. i couldn't believe it.

    but it got worse. at the ticket counter, they treated me as if had simply missed the bus and wanted me to pay half for a bus to the border and then for a taxi to cover the rest of the way. i wasn't having it. they didn't really speak english, but understood when i started raising my voice. after i threw in some more italian type hand gestures, they finally gave me the ticket to the border for free and promised to find me a free bus ride there. hallelujah.

    i had three hours of sleep, so i spent a good portion of the ride trying to sleep. there wasn't all that much to miss outside, just endlessly stretching kazakh steppe. after about five hours, we reached customs. at both the kazakh and the chinese checkpoint, the officers greeted me in german upon seeing my passport. i really haven't experienced the horrible xinjiang treatment everyone is talking about, so far, the chinese have all been super sweet.

    the bus guy actually sticked to his promise and waved down another bus for me and it wasn't before long that i could see yining ahead of me. i was pretty excited, but still had to get to my hostel without internet and with western navigation of course being useless in china. i just had a screen recording of me zooming into a place on a chinese nav app, but to my own surprise, i made it.

    i get a lot more attention walking down the street again, and even at the hostel, everyone is chinese. as soon as one person starts talking to you, all the others come in as well. it seems as though they all kept a genuine childlike curiosity, but they're always super respectful, which makes those encounters much more enjoyable than in some other countries.

    the next day, i made some plans for the rest of china and found out that the ferry to japan that i wanted to take is suspended. also, i booked a train, but due to some rainfall and flooding on the way, it was canceled. booked another one the next day, but i really can't lose much time. the no-visa policy for china only applies for 14 days, so if i haven't made it out of the country by then, i'm fucked. some people have recommended mongolia, but it doesn't really attract me right now. instead, i'll try the ferry to korea instead.

    anyways, yining turned out to be much nicer than i'd thought. it's somewhat walkable and there's a sort of spiderweb park area in the middle. it's stuffed with domestic tourists, but super beautiful nonetheless, with lots of little traditional shops and restaurants. the food is also great, but i always have to look for a place that has pictures of the food with prices so i can just point to what i want and spare the hassle. you can get a nice big noodle soup for as low as 10 yen (~1,30€) and supermarkets are expensive, so i eat outside twice a day.

    life's good here, china is really growing on me :)
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  • train journey to xi'an

    Jul 19–21, 2024 in China ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    with my time in yining over, it was time to make some distance to cross china in 14 days. i had booked two connecting trains online (very happy it's that easy here). i'd spene more than 40 hours in the train seat, but i won't complain for 60€.

    while waiting for a taxi by the street, i met a guy from the hostel who was also going to the train station, in fact he was on the same train as me, so we went together. he spoke a bit of english and was able to guide me through the boarding process, which sounds easy, but in china, taking the train, security-wise, is the same as flying.

    they waved me out after x-raying my bag. firstly, one of my powerbanks was too strong, so i had to send it to my hostel via express delivery. it was pretty cheap though, so i'm alright with that. secondly, and this one was much more to my surprise, the officer told me to take "the bullet casing" out of my bag. after triple checking that it wasn't a translation issue, i pulled out my lighter, my pens, anything that resembled a bullet. he didn't want any of those, so i kept digging, and sure enough, pulled out a rusty bullet shell from my souvenir stash. i had completely forgotten i ever had it, i don't even remember where or when i had found it. needless to say, they didn't allow me to ship it to the hostel 😂

    anyways, it was super helpful that the guy was there to help me. after going through another security layer, we finally made it to the platform, where the train departed in perfect chinese punctuality.

    i came to find that even the chinese railway isn't as good as it's reputation. we arrived almost an hour too late in urumqi and then weren't allowed to board the next train for so long the that it almost left without us. finally, just four minutes before departure, we got on. this time, the train was much older with a lot more chaos inside. i luckily got a window seat though, so no complaints.

    i didn't sleep much, instead i watched "gladiator", "where the crowdads sing", "atlas" plus all 7 episodes of "bodkin", listened through 8 entire albums, read a quarter of jane eyre (found it in the hostel in almaty) and ate 3 instant noodle cups. all chinese trains have hot water on board, and pretty much everyone was making good use of it.

    one of those meals, i believe it must've been the one on the picture, caused the most excrutiating stomach cramps i've ever had and i had to resort to popping a painkiller after fighting for an hour. almost threw up as well, so i also threw in some fever medication and was back to normal pretty quickly.

    i made good use of my window seat as well and got to see a lot of cities up close (and two buddhist monks, dressed in those cool orange robes). on the map, they're only minor stop offs on the way, but then you check the population and it turns out they're actually berlin sized. also, i realized the true scale of china. i don't need to tell you that it's huge, but it's sooooo huge with sooooo much cool nature and things to see. luckily, my fomo is long gone, so i was also quite content with skipping that much land.

    the sun came up for second time just as we arrived in xi'an. it was still 5 in the morning and my check-in at 12, so i decided it would be best to just sleep in the train station until then. i was awoken a couple of hours later by a policeman who didn't like that idea as much as me.

    i exited the station and found a taxi that took me to the adress i had on my phone. normally, i would've just taken the metro, but as i said, navigation apps aren't worth shit here, so i wouldn't have known where to go. the taxi driver didn't have any clue either, it seems, because he dropped me off in the wrong place, but after half an hour of asking around, i finally found the right door hidden away in a small hallway on the 6th floor of some semi abandoned office building. another one for the books.
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  • xi'an

    Jul 21–23, 2024 in China ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    stepping out of the air-conditioned train station was like opening an oven door. i'm used to being in mid-thirty degree temperatures now, but the 80 to 90 percent humidity is just something else. good thing east asians famously don't have any BO. still, i only dared to leave the hostel room no earlier than 5pm, which still gave me enough time to explore the city a bit.

    it had a really cool touristy center, again, completely packed with domestic tourists eager to take pictures with the blonde. as soon as you veer off the main tourist paths though, it gets less glamorous (and far more interesting) very quickly. in this case though, it was nice to just lean back and just follow the tourist flows for once.

    that included, of course, emperor qinshihuang's mausoleum with the famous terra cotta army. i'm still not into history and the ticket price was pretty steep, but i might as well go while i'm there. i woke up before 6 to get to the museum as soon as it opened and avoid the masses, but others seemed to have had the same idea. at least i met a nice dutch couple on the bus and we went to the archeology site together, it was way more fun that way.

    food was great, drinks were greater (i'm still not through all fanta flavours and can't believe we only get orange in germany), but my onward plans were jacked up quite a bit. i had planned to go to beijing and take a ferry from there, so i booked a train and hostel until, the night before i wanted to leave, i got an email that my train was cancelled. no problem, refunded and booked another one. cancelled again. and then again (i had to pay for the refund each time), until there were no more trains available the next three days, no real bus infrastructure, and too big of a distance to hitchhike. and time getting reeeaaal tight now.

    i ended up scrapping the whole plan at 3am and looked for alternative cities to go to. the whole south is completely flooded, no train seats to any well-known cities left. i did some research and landed on hangzhou in the end, it's supposed to be great and only half an hour from shanghai. i'd have a day there and would then take another 20h train to another port city, where i'm hoping i can just show up to book a ferry to korea, because there is no online reservation. if i don't get the one on monday, my visa will run out. i'm optimistic though.
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  • hangzhou

    Jul 24–26, 2024 in China ⋅ 🌙 29 °C

    hangzhou is a hidden gem and i'm glad i got to see it just out of pure accident. its only half an hour away from shanghai, but sadly i didn't have enough time to go there. the train journey (even went over yangtze river) there took about 22 hours, but the hostel was really worth it. i only paid like 15€ for two nights and it was super luxurious, with those crazy chinese toilets as well.

    anyways, i made my way down to the city lake (i'm getting really good at taking the metro now, it wasn't that easy at first), expecting not much more than a nice calm walk along the shore. turned out that it was actually the touristic center of hangzhou, with a bunch of pagodas, island ferries and beautiful parks. there were some domestic tourists, but thankfully not too many. the weather was absolutely scorching, maybe even worse than in xi'an, so i was glad to have some rainfall which cooled the place down nicely.

    i would've loved to spend more time in hangzhou, but my onward trains were already booked, so i figured i'd at least go downtown to see the skyline at night. the pictures don't convey it, but it was crazy. in that moment, it really felt like a different chapter from central asia had begun. i've made some real distance now and only just realized that i'm already further east than bali. literally so close to the pacific, it's crazy.
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  • quingdao

    Jul 27–29, 2024 in China ⋅ 🌬 27 °C

    forgot to make an entry about quingdao oopsieees

    after another 40h train ride not worth writing about, i finally arrived at the pacific ocean, more precisely in china's beer capital quingdao, from where (hopefully) my ferry would depart.

    the hostel was situated right next to the coast promenade, from where you could look up at the brightly lit up skyline along the shore. i didn't expect it at all, so you can imagine my face when i turned the corner and saw it for the first time. one metro ride away was also a beach, which i thoroughly enjoyed. the water is like 25 degrees, you could literally stay in there the whole day (or the whole night, in my example).

    at the hostel, i also met the probably coolest chinese girl out there. she spoke perfect english, we had a couple of drinks while playing roblox dress to impress, ordered chicken wings and then decided to go to a viewpoint beach for sunrise. beat that.
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  • ferry to korea

    Jul 29–30, 2024, Yellow Sea ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    i knew that getting a ferry at a chinese port wouldn't be a piece of cake, so i left a good 6 hours of buffer before the departure, you never know. stocked up on cup noodles and drinks, took a metro, and then started walking towards the gps location i had found in someone's blog post. the heat was insane, i was sweating buckets after just five minutes, but soon arrived at the location where i found: a construction fence. and with that, i already thought that was going to be it.

    i just kept on wandering, went through and out of the back of a shopping mall, where through the trees, i saw what looked like a terminal to me. made my way there and sure enough, i was in the right place - that's step one. step two followed quickly, they still had plenty tickets to sell, actually for a lot cheaper than what it said online. to my surprise, i also met a french guy at the ticket counter, he even spoke perfect german because he lives in berlin, so we went to grab lunch while the chinese got out tickets approved.

    when we came back, the entire waiting room was empty all of a sudden. they had started boarding too early, but we quickly caught up with the rest of the passengers, including another german guy and a norwegian bikepacker. after customs, we formed a little clique and got settled in the 48-man sleeping hall, which was actually a lot better than it sounds.

    soon enough, the ferry left shore. the crossing was great but uneventful, other than the fact that the water boilers for the noodles weren't working until the last ten minutes and that i was so tired from the day that i went to bed too early and spent my night sitting on the deck listening to music.

    customs in korea was a breeze, but they but a little barcode sticker in my passport instead of a stamp, which i hated. now in incheon, we had to find a way to get inland. it took us a while to figure it out, but eventually, we had our transport cards in hand and got on the way to seoul.
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  • seoul

    Jul 30–Sep 5, 2024 in South Korea ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    i couldn't possibly write out all the things that went on in the five weeks i spent in seoul, so here are some of the people and anecdotes i want to remember:

    - met honore, the french guy from the ferry, again in front of a random bar later that night. we seperated again after a bit, but the next morning he had a full blackout and woke up in some strangers car
    - went to the dmz and saw north korean people go about their day at the propaganda village on the other side of the river
    - went to the hostel's korean bbq twice, both times absolute mayhem
    - laid down in the middle of the pedestrian area of the party district with alessia from the hostel looking at the moon at 4am, and a bunch of people promptly joined
    - had the greatest karaoke session of all time
    - participated in a mandatory air raid drill and went to the public bunker aka the metro, but nobody else cared so we spontaneously bought ear rings there and pierced our ears with a hot needle and an apple
    - went on a beeaautiful sunset hike (or run) up a mountain but we were too slow and missed it
    - almost got scurvy because of my ramen-egg-toast-mayo diet (those were the only foods we got for free at the hostel)
    - came home from hongdae at 8:30am for work at 11:00am
    - went to a nearby university running track every other night and made some good progress on the 20min 5k and ran my first 30k there

    - sam: guatemalan teaching english in china, we met at a latin dance bar in front of the dj booth because we were the only ones actually dancing, from there on she was my go to for at least two weeks
    - humza: us-pakistani, met at bar, super unique, genuine guy, you just had to be there
    - madeline: us-american, i don't even know how we met but she was amazing, had one or two deep talks and oh boy did it go deep
    - shion: korean dude who joined the us airforce, was at the hostel for a whole month and managed to get me a new phone
    - etai: nomad yoga guru from new york, possibly the most eccentric person i have ever come across
    - zach & jimmy: from washington state, pierced their ears together with me, the kind of guys that are funny without even doing anything
    - like a thousand others i can't write about
    (i just now realize how many us-americans are on that list, i might have to stop my general hatred towards them soon)

    i'm not gonna lie, those were my personal highlights - generally, seoul was alright, no more and no less. i noticed not too long after starting the volunteering position that i could've made better decisions on where to spend all those weeks. the people that came in were great, but the hostel was pretty bad. also, the other staff members never socialised with the guests and sometimes went as far as kicking everybody out from the common area at 11pm because they wanted to sleep. the weather didn't help much either, most days i was trapped inside by the heat and at best, could only go out by night. in hindsight, i would've liked japan or busan much more for a number of reasons, but all in all, i had a really good time.
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  • flight to hiroshima

    Sep 6–7, 2024, Japan Sea ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    when my work was finished in seoul, i wanted to get going again as quickly as possible. i would only have about five weeks to head to japan, travel around there, then hop over to china again, cover a couple thousand kilometres there, and get through laos and thailand to finally reach bangkok on the 12th when my friends would get there for my birthday.

    it's a pretty tight fit, but i really wanted to make japan work, so i already had a flight booked from tokyo to shanghai. normally, i could do exactly that route by ferry, but they didn't run anymore. there was a ferry from korea to japan that i had counted on, but it turned out that you had to book that one far in advance for some reason. no wonder ferries are dying out. a flight is about 15 times faster and way cheaper, so with the time pressure, i spontaneously booked seoul-hiroshima for the next morning.

    i then realized that i would have to pay 20€ for an airport shuttle if i left in the morning since the subway doesn't run that early, so i packed up in a hurry, said goodbye to everyone at the hostel, barely caught the last metro and found me a nice little sleeping spot behind some dividers at the airport. money.

    wearing all my heavy clothes to make the weight limit, i boarded the next morning. i made good use of my window seat the whole time and before i knew it, i could already see the japanese shore below me. i still had some time to kill until check-in at the hostel, so i just napped for an hour or two in the airport lobby and then encountered the first piece of quintessential japanese cultural heritage: the vending machine. you can just choose a cool looking drink and then tap your card, it's that easy. but the special thing aren't the vending themselves, but rather how many there are. absolutely evereywhere you go, even in the villages, you're guaranteed to find a vending machine no more than 100 metres away.

    to make the 90-minute journey to the city, i could've paid for a shuttle again, but who am i to do that, so i walked outside into the scorching heat and tried my luck hitchhiking. hiroshima is a surprisingly tiny airport, so there was barely any traffic, but after about half an hour, i was picked up by a super friendly guy. he spoke english, gave me a drink and plus a few tips on what to do and eat in japan, before dropping me at the memorial building just a couple minutes away from the hostel. honestly a great introduction to japan.
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