Travels in Europe 2017

August - September 2017
A 39-day adventure by Kath's Travels Read more
  • 63footprints
  • 6countries
  • 39days
  • 359photos
  • 0videos
  • 36.0kkilometers
  • 21.2kkilometers
  • Day 6

    A night of Burlesque and too much wine

    August 25, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    After getting all glammed up we headed out on the Metro again to Jussieu where we had a short walk to the Paradise Latin Cabaret. Billed as the “Most Parisian of Cabarets” it is located in the heart of the Left Bank and was built by Gustav Eiffel in 1889. We were seated right at the front and served a lovely lovely meal. I had prawns and some delicious salmon while Kirstin enjoyed the fois gras salad and also the salmon, there was a half bottle of champagne and a full bottle of red – no way we were going to get through all that at the end of a long day – Kirstin was more moderate but I did give it a go!! Then there was the show, singing, dancing, toplessness and of course the “Can can” to finish – unfortunately, the wine and the long day (the show ended after 11pm) was catching up with me and I was struggling to stay awake towards the end however it was still great fun and really good food – pity we had to waste the wine though! Then it was over and it was back to the metro and the hostel for our final night in ParisRead more

  • Day 6

    Today we DID visit the Louvre

    August 25, 2017 in France ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Up bright and early we breakfasted and headed out to the Metro – it was a cool morning when we left the hostel and a little overcast – 40 minutes later when we emerged from the Palais Royal Louvre Station it was starting to rain …. not as per forecast but never mind. As per the instructions we had found online instead of queueing at the main entrance we headed into the Carousel shopping centre (home of the inverted pyramid) and joined the line there – even at 5 to 9 this was much shorter and by 20 past we had been through security, purchased tickets, checked our bags and were walking in to the Museum. The Louvre is just amazing and really a must see, although it is only the older works held there (nothing after about the 1850’s). We had a wander staring with a search for the Vermeer works which I really wanted to see (sadly they turned out to be in Dublin!) and then moving on to all the must see pieces such as the winged victory, some fantastic Fra Angelico, the Venus di Milo, hall of the Sphinx’s and of course we braved the crush to see the Mona Lisa. By 1230 we were completely knackered, had walked 14,000+ steps and were not “over” art but had seen about enough for the day. During our time in the museum it had not just rained but actually thundered (really not as per forecast) so out first task was to go purchase an umbrella …. This done we had to decide what to do next.Read more

  • Day 7

    Off to Mainz

    August 26, 2017 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Another early start with breakfast and packing and out the door by 8am but then it was a leisurely walk to Gare L’Est (about 30 minutes with our bags in tow). Here we had to recreate an “Amile” moment with the photo booth (we had tried the night before but I think I was a tad inebriated and couldn’t get it to work) as this was one of the stations she visited. By the time we had done that it was almost time to get on the train to Mannerheim, which we duly found on platform 4. This was a sleek looking TGV which, once it got going, was hitting speeds of 320km per hour and clearly made easy work of the Journey. We were at Mannerhiem by 12.15 but then were delayed slightly by the late arrival of the 12.39 to Munster. It finally arrived and we were on our way to Mainz – a mere 35 minutes later we were disembarking at the Haupbahnhof. From there it was about a 40-minute walk to the boat where, bonus we were able to check in straight away. We were directed to our cabin (115) and after unpacking we were able to head back out to explore the town.Read more

  • Day 7

    A few hrs in Mainz & the journey begins

    August 26, 2017 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We set out from the boat heading into town and up the hill where we found a lovely church – St Stephanskirsche at the top of the hill. It was just lovely – a wedding was taking place and a woman sang “Hallelujah” as we were there. The windows are fantastic – glowing blue – they were created in 1978 by Marc Chagall as a symbol of the Jewish-Christian bond. From there we walked back to the town and sat in the square opposite the Dom St Martin and enjoyed a beer (A dark Allgauer and a fresh pretzel. Then we had a stroll around the old town before heading back to the boat at about 530. The MS Andante is an older boat, green and white and will have 78 guests on this trip, including 21 Ghostriders. Our cabin (115) is downstairs thanks to a stuff up by the travel agent – we did request the top deck! The cabin is compact with 2 single beds and a toilet/shower combo – we do get a small window however, although you do have to stand on the bed to see out – the fresh air it provides is lovely none-the-less. Welcome briefing was at 5.45 and then it was time to go for dinner which involved multiple courses (radish salad, mushroom soup, mei goring, stuffed capsicum and veggies and rice pudding to finish) and was rather tasty. Then to end the night it was our briefing for tomorrow – sadly we received the news that because of mooring issues at Speyer our planned one way ride to Speyer via Heidelberg was now a return ride to Heidelberg – but what can you do – suck it up and peddle on!Read more

  • Day 8

    Peddle on – Heidelberg & back – 55km

    August 27, 2017 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We were in the dining room and enjoying a fairly generous breakfast by 7am – bacon and eggs, cereals, yoghurt, fruit, breads etc etc – you are also required to take items from the buffet and make your lunch too – there was ham, salad, cheeses and eggs to put into rolls and then plenty of fruit, plus a muslie bar and some chocolate to take too. All sorted we were out on the bank to sort out the bikes and adjust them to our size. Kirstin had a few quick lessons with her e-bike and mastered it easily. A last-minute briefing, some photos and then we were off towards Heidelberg.

    We headed past the Schloss and then it was up through the main street to the Necker river which is the other side of town. There we turned to the right and then followed the river towards Heidelberg. It was a lovely cool and slightly misty morning as being a Sunday we were serenaded by the bells of numerous local churches as we rode along. The bike path meandered up and down, through towns and past fields – the main local crops seemed to be corn, a type of beet (maybe the type that you feed to cattle) and also perhaps radishes. We seemed to get a bit lost at times and were helped out by a pair of friendly locals who guided us into the town via the Alte Brucke which also has the student gate. Somehow along the way we had got split into 2 groups so we ended up doing different things for the day. I had coffee with 3 other ladies and then went of a walk down the Haupstrasse (Main Street) before heading up to the Schloss – or Castle (which was constructed between the 13th and 18th centuries and also has the distinction of being hit by lightning and burning down – twice) to enjoy the view of the town. After that I then returned to the square near the Church (Heiliggeistkirche) to eat my packed lunch and enjoy a small glass of Heidelberg Pilsiner.

    Kirstin enjoyed lunch on the other side of the river, picnicking near a water park before crossing the river via the Alte Brucke and enjoying an espresso and a long relaxing chat in the square near the church. Henry shared the story of his life growing up in the outer suburbs of Berlin during the second world war as part of a family of 9 children (4 brothers and 4 sisters). At 1.30 this group headed back to Mannheim with a brief stop at the zoo and at a small village beer garden where several Ghostriders enjoyed a beer in the sun (although Kirstin restrained herself for fear of falling off her e-bike).

    I waiting in Heidelberg until 2pm when I began the ride back with 3 others – however not only did I somehow loose them along the way, but I caught up with the first group – we made very good time back to Mannheim and were boarding the boat by 4.10pm ready for our 5pm departure. Then it was a nice cup of tea, a shower and a good relax before dinner which was vegetable mouse or salad, some veggie soup, fish and beans and fruit salad to finish. A very full and enjoyable day.
    Read more

  • Day 8

    An evening stroll is Speyer

    August 27, 2017 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    At 830 a group of 9 Ghostriders assembled at reception for a guided walk of the town of Speyer. Our guide was Frank, a lovely and knowledgeable man whose family had lived in Speyer since the 1870’s. We learned that the area was settled by the Romans over 2000 years ago although the town was first referred to as Speyer in about 600AD when the formally nomadic Franconians settled. In the 11th Century a king of the Holy Roman Empire decided to build “the biggest and greatest Cathedral” in Europe and so work started of the Speyer Dom. Subsequent kings made additions also, although the work was essentially finished by the early 12th Century when the local line of Kings ended. The Cathedral was subsequently severely damaged by Louis 14th on one of his rampages when he burned down most of the town and not really restored until Emperor Napoleon got involved in the early 19th Century. However, he rebuilt in a Baroque style and once he had buggered off the town fathers decided that they couldn’t stand it and re-did the whole western façade in the neo-Romanesque style to better match the original sections. We were also shown the wine bowl which is at the front of the Dom and is filled on special religious occasions (takes 1580L) and served to the people of the town. The next stop was the Jewish Courtyard which has the ruins of the synagogue which was originally built in the late 11th Century (but destroyed with the rest of the town by the aforementioned Louis). The most amazing future of the courtyard however was the ritual baths (which survived the destruction). Located 10m underground the baths were where the members of the synagogue would perform their ritual cleansing – for women after child birth and monthly, for men every Shabbat evening. The baths are 900years old and simply amazing – the Jews were invited to Speyer in the 11th century for their financial acumen but the community (at the time almost 8000 in number) was totally destroyed in 1940 when all members were arrested and taken first to an internment camp and then to a concentration camp – none survived. It was a late night but so totally fascinatingRead more

  • Day 9

    Exploring Speyer

    August 28, 2017 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    After an early start to do my exercises on a cool morning with a lovely sunrise and then breakfast we were ready for our briefing at 8.45 – more “bad” news. We were unable to get mooring at Sonderheim or Pitterdorf so there was a reduction in the ride – 20km (turned out to be a 31km day in the end with some extra meandering that we did) – and we had to be at Germeheim by 2pm to load the boat and be away from the mooring by 3pm. Again – suck it up and peddle on.
    We “saddled up” and headed out – first stop the Cathedral of St Mary and St Stephen – this time we could go inside however. As I said it is built in the Romanesque style and is the largest of this type in the world. The interior is very plain, but in its way very beautiful in its simplicity. I visited the crypt also, again this is the largest Romanesque crypt in the world. It consists of 4 rooms and includes a chapel as well as the tombs of a number of the Holy Roman Emperors and their wives. It is still used for services today. After that I went and climbed the tower – first there was 200 steps to the Kaisersalle (Kings Hall) here they had a display of murals which had been painted on the ceilings in the 19th Century – however in the 1950’s these were deemed not to be in harmony with the simple Romanesque nature of the Cathedral and many were destroyed although a number were saved and are now housed in this special room. From here it was another 190 steps up to the top of the tower and so very well worth it was as the view was amazing!!!! Coming back down the tower I noticed that a group of Ghostriders were in a café down the square. I ducked in there and asked them to watch my bike while I nipped further down the street to look for the Spatzel maker that was the aim for my souvenir from Germany – first attempt proved fruitless but a very kind lady directed me further down the street to a homewares store where I found one – bonus – on sale for 14.99 euro’s. I re-joined the Ghostriders and we headed off down the river towards Germeheim.
    Read more

  • Day 9

    And then on to Germeheim

    August 28, 2017 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    The ride to Germeheim was lovely and very flat – most of the time we were riding with fields on one side (corn, zucchinis, onions and Brussel sprouts) and forests on the other – it was just lovely. We paused briefly by the river for lunch and then carried on into Germeheim where we found that the boat had not arrived. Douglas and I decided that we would be a long time sitting on the boat in the afternoon so we had ride in and around the town and found an interesting church with scallops on the doors which seemed to be made of an interesting type of forged metal. We then rode on down the river for several km’s enjoying the pleasant sunshine and cool breeze off the water. We paused to soak our feet in the Rhine which is apparently a Ghostrider Tradition. The boat arrived but could not moor for some time so by the time it could there was little time before we would have to move on (and presumably get fined if we overstayed). Thus, the Ghostriders pitched in and soon had the bikes all stowed – it was impressive to see how the crew virtually threw the bikes up a steep ramp on to the top deck. Then it was time to shower and enjoy a cuppa and cake in the lounge before the 6pm briefing – yet again there seems to be mooring issues – we will not be starting at Pittersdorf now but at the lock at Ifferin, this means our ride is 36 rather than 40km, but yet again – what can you do? Suck it up and peddle on!!! Then at 6.30 it was up onto the sundeck for a BBQ – yummy salads, fish and fruit salad and icecream to follow – headed off for an early night with a very full tummy!!Read more

  • Day 10

    And then we had to adapt again

    August 29, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Major change of plans today – initially we had been slotted in to moor somewhere at midnight and then disembark at the Ifferin Lock at 9am, however we awoke to the news that our overnight mooring had been taken by an abandoned boat and that when we arrived at the Lock the captain had the lock master threat to call the police if we tried to disembark. There was, apparently, no alternative but to sail on to Strasbourg. Essentially this would mean a whole morning on the boat, lunch on board and then the afternoon to explore the city by bike or by foot but no real riding – this was really rather disappointing (although I don’t think Kirstin minded at all). A few of the Ghostriders hatched a “lets ride into the city and around the island and see stuff” plan with some aiming to return to the boat for dinner and others planning to eat in the city. I opted for the latter with the additional intention of going back into the city (by tram) to watch the nightly light show at the Cathedral. Thus, we sailed up the river, including passage through 2 large and one small Lock (the latter built in the Napoleonic period) which was fascinating. Lunch was a bizarre mix of potato and sausage soup, spring rolls, noodle salad and fruit (I ate some spring rolls, fruit and my rolls from breakfast – the rest was pretty foul). I know the crew are doing their best and the situation is not their fault but really it isn’t very good! I am not impressed!!!Read more

  • Day 10

    And in to beautiful Strasbourg

    August 29, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Finally, we were moored and the bikes unloaded by about 2.30pm – well not all bikes – some of the Ghostriders had decided to cycle into the city and the others had decided to take the tram and explore on foot. I was in the former group and we headed off down the canal path which was a flat and pleasant ride on a lovely sunny afternoon. We soon reached the old town (also known as little France because of its building style of half-timbered houses built along the river) were Douglas and I, deciding that we were not up for cake and coffee, split off from the rest of the group and continued to explore. Strasbourg was initially confined to a roughly lemon shaped island surrounded by a river called l’Ill – once this was ringed with a wall and 100’s of towers but little of this remains. The region (Alsatian) has its own dialect and has variously – over the years – been French or German – although now we were officially in France again. We explored the Little France area for a bit before making our way to the Cathedral which was AMAZING. Built in the Roman-Gothic style it is highly elaborate and took almost 300 years to complete (1176-1439), it also contains a famous astronomical clock which we saw doing it’s thing. We then joined the Batorama tour – this was a trip all around the island and up the L’Aar River. It took over an hour and we saw and learned many interesting things – such as that during the French Revolution the “authorities” wanted to pull down the Cathedral Spire but were convinced that putting a giant red revolutionary hat over it was a better idea (goodness knows how they got it up there and what it was made of), and that one of the Protestant Churches had 19 doors so that the 3000 soldiers garrisoned there could march in in a quick and orderly manner. After that we did a loop ride around the rest of the Island before coming back to Little France where we sat under a massive and beautiful Plane Tree to enjoy a “Blanche Bier” with was very crisp and “appley” tasting – and rather nice. Whilst we were sitting chatting a waitress dropped a glass Pepsi bottle with dramatic effect as is smashed on the cobblestones sending glass flying – including into my leg – just a scratch fortunately but the blood was impressive – I was hoping to be offered a free beer as compensation but no luck, probably just as well as we still had to ride back. We had a quick look from the top of the covered bridge which is at the base of the island and then having been told that dinner was at 6pm (not 6.30 as we had thought) we hightailed it back to the boat for dinner (Salad, Soup, Fish and Waffles).
    After dinner, it was a quick shower and then Douglas, Bob and I took the short stroll down to the tram where we purchased (and validated – under the stern and watchful gaze of the ticket inspectors) tickets for the short ride into town. We walked down to the Cathedral where we then had to wait for an hour and a half (thanks Dagmar – you got the 8pm and then every 20 minutes info quite wrong) for the sound and light show projected on the Cathedral wall – it WAS worth the wait though.
    Meanwhile Kirstin had gone exploring with some of the other Ghostriders, also visiting the Cathedral, and strolling around the town – enjoying a bier at a café and then ending up at a lovely restaurant near the lock. Called Au Pont Saint Martin, it was 250years old and served traditional Alsatian dishes. Kirstin enjoyed a delicious cream cheese and potato pancake with more cheese (Munster this time) on the side, plus a salad – yummo! Then it was back to the boat – with an interesting interaction with the ticket machine which was vigorously ejecting tickets through the air still fortunately validated them as the inspectors were out in force.
    Read more