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Via @ 70

julho - outubro 2023
  • Stuart Kilpatrick
Walking from Canterbury to Rome Leia mais
  • Stuart Kilpatrick

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  • Stuart KilpatrickViajanteVia @ 70

    Conde-sur-Marne 12 miles

    1 de agosto de 2023, França ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Was looking forward to a short day but noticed that check in for the next place was at 6pm and I was expected to leave this morning by 9.30am with nothing of any note in-between. Even walking really slowly I was going to have to spend 3 hours sitting beside a canal. After discussing the problem with my host she offered to phone to ask if could get in earlier. Ended up anytime after 2pm would be fine. Made all the difference to the day.

    Couple of hours walking in the forest this morning followed by a couple of hours along the canal in the afternoon. Very pleasant. Arrived about 2.30pm. Showered, got plenty of washing done and put my feet up before 4pm. Gave me hours to look forward to my tea. The best that can be said about that is at least I don’t have to carry it tomorrow.

    The “missing” lady turned up to stay but at least in this place we have separate bedrooms. She is walking from Glasgow to Rome, pulling a trailer. Words fail me.    Leia mais

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  • Stuart KilpatrickViajanteVia @ 70

    Saint-Germain-la-Ville 17 miles

    2 de agosto de 2023, França ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    Met my Glaswegian pilgrim over breakfast. Have to say her trailer looks grand. If I had to pull a trailer for 2,000 miles along roads it would be the one I would choose. It’s just that I wouldn’t ever want to do that. Most of you think I am not quite the full shilling doing my walk but believe me I am not even in the same ball-park as this one. It is difficult to know where to start but the obvious one is she pretty much has to go on roads. Very few paths are a good enough surface for the trailer. When walking on roads perceived wisdom is one walks facing the oncoming traffic so that, if required, one can try and get off the road very quickly. Sometimes barriers, walls, hedges etc make this well-nigh impossible but one does one’s best. With a trailer that would not be possible so she walks on the other side of the road. Effectively acting like a very slow, and relatively wide, bike. Completely trusting traffic coming up behind her to take avoiding action. Not for me. Have to say it has worked for her so far and she did walk down from Glasgow. The bit that really tickles me though is she works as a Health and Safety consultant.

    My closing thought before turning in last night was that the charges in the chamber d’hote were 55€ for a single room or 70€ for a double. We could each have saved 20€ if we had shared a room. Maybe next time.

    Very wet morning walk along beside the canal so we decided to walk together and blether. Did make for a very pleasant change from Desert Island Discs I have to say. Arrived in Chalons-en-Champagne in time for a late lunch and we ended up in an African restaurant for chicken and rice. Very nice too. Think it might be just about my first proper lunch on this trip. Parted company after lunch as she was staying the night there whereas I had another 6 or 7 miles to go.

    Afternoon spent in sun, walking along beside the canal, with 45-50mph gusting wind blowing through the trees the other side of me from the canal. Leaves and bits of tree constantly being blown down. Felt really wild. A couple of trees had fallen and there were already wood-cutters at work to clear the path. Was feeling quite apprehensive when suddenly a tree seemed to fall on to me. Sent me flying, landing on one hip and my back which was protected by the rucksack but luckily the tree had actually fallen against another tree and it was only some branches that had taken me out. Heck of a fright though and I still had 4 or 5 miles to walk staring up at the trees in case of a repeat.

    Arrived at the next village, found the chambre d’hote and discovered that although they can do evening meals they needed to have been booked in advance. No-where else available so thank goodness I got that lunch. Could really do with some chocolate though. Hey ho. Roll on breakfast.    Leia mais

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  • Stuart KilpatrickViajanteVia @ 70

    Vitry-le-Francois 20 miles

    3 de agosto de 2023, França ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Woke this morning with a bad case of trigger finger. For those unacquainted with this rather upsetting condition, it happens when a finger “locks” into a tightly curled position and you are unable, without considerable discomfort or pain, to straighten the finger. I occasionally get it with the middle finger of my right hand. Wasn’t able to straighten the finger for some time and I did briefly wonder what the rest of this trip would be like if I couldn’t fix it. Bloody awkward I would think. Anyway, with some patient massaging from my other hand and brute force I got it straight. Not pleasant. Not recommended.

    Getting on better terms with both feet just now, so that when I had to make a choice of route this morning I wasn’t sure what to do. The official route was a further 5 hours or 15 miles walking but I noticed that a shortcut alongside the canal would only take 3 hours or 9 miles. Decided not to take the shortcut which seemed fine for the first hour or so but then the weather took a turn for the worse. Had a couple of hours of on with the jacket, off with the jacket and repeat. Thought it was clearing up a little until I reached the top of a small hill and looked at the weather approaching and it really didn’t look good. My jacket was bought for lightness rather than any sort of waterproofness and my shoes just have a trainer type mesh upper so got well and truly soaked. Had an unpleasant road crossing to negotiate in the middle of it.

    But by the time I reached the chambre d’hote I wasn’t feeling too bad. Interesting version of en-suite room. Cupboard with a toilet in one corner and a muckle big Jacuzzi in another corner. Not unpleasant.
    Suitably refreshed and out into town hunting for a restaurant. Found a Japanese one not taking its annual holidays. Have noticed before that in France these are quite reasonably priced so gave it a go. Less than 12€ for a very pleasant dinner. Excellent.

    Even got some Lindt chocolate for back in my room. All is well with the world again.    Leia mais

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  • Stuart KilpatrickViajanteVia @ 70

    Saint-Remy-en-Bouzemont 13 miles

    4 de agosto de 2023, França ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Leisurely breakfast as I only had 13 miles to do and the next place didn’t want folk until after 4pm. Left at 10am as there didn’t seem much point in hanging about. Weather nice enough to merit the sun tan lotion application. Came upon a bench in the shade where I chilled out for an hour over a long phone call. Also came to an open boulangerie at lunchtime. Just about a first so had to nip in for a quiche and strawberry tart. Rude not to. Threatened more rain in the afternoon but didn’t really come to much.

    Arrived at this pilgrim’s refuge just after 4pm as requested. Phoned the key holder who let me in. Possibly used to be part of the girl’s school. Bunk beds but I seem to be the only occupant. I think it is a Covid hangover but they only give an incredibly flimsy paper sheet and pillowcase. Absolutely single use only. Not as uncomfortable as you would think. Note in the property to say that the local community have provided this pilgrim accommodation and a donation would be welcome.

    Unusually there was a local grocer but basic supplies only. Hence tea of Knor packet soup and a kebab roll. Pretty grim but at least the chocolate after was fine. Another note says they would like me out by 9am so I had better make it an early night.    Leia mais

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  • Stuart KilpatrickViajanteVia @ 70

    Chavanges 15 miles

    5 de agosto de 2023, França ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    There are days like today when writing this diary is not easy. It was just another day in the life of a pilgrim which is probably a lot more limited and routine than the life of all those reading this. I got up. Didn’t have breakfast (because none was available). Started walking. It rained a bit as it has almost every day so far. It was sunny for a bit as it has almost every day so far. Some of it was muddy etc, on roads etc, through fields etc. you get the picture.

    The only remote thing of interest I passed all day was a 16th Century half-timbered church which claims to be the largest such church in the Champagne region. Mmm.

    Staying tonight in another chambre d’hote place. I do find these a little strange. A sort of bed and breakfast cum Airbnb. Sometimes they are just a simple room, usually en-suite, in the host’s house and other times a large apartment with full kitchen, dining room and living room but in the latter case there might well be other families occupying the apartment as well. Tonight was the simple room and I had been able to arrange an evening meal. But of course I had no idea what this meal might consist of. Was given a very small quiche with a wee bit of salad and some bread. Was that it? No other cutlery. Would have been rude to ask even if my schoolboy French let me. Turned out it was a starter and the main was a dod of meat and some mashed mixed veg. A lot nicer than it looked.

    All finished and back in my room. Get this written and teeth done and off to bed by 9pm. Another day done.

    Beyond my writing skills to make it any more exciting than that. Very sorry. We have all got a long way still to go!    Leia mais

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  • Stuart KilpatrickViajanteVia @ 70

    Dienville 12 miles

    6 de agosto de 2023, França ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    There is a wise old saying about being careful what you wish for. Last night I was looking for a little excitement just to give me something to write. Well it came, and in the most unlikely of ways.

    I was kept awake last night by a ticking clock on the wall. No problem I thought. Just take the battery out and all would be well. Reached up to take it off the wall and it promptly fell onto my nose. No damage to the clock but my nose is not improved. No more selfies for a while just in case there are children reading.

    Speaking of excitement I was most concerned about last night’s toilet. (Bet you weren’t expecting that). This thing was electric. Haven’t come across anything like it since Japan. At least in Japan there were instructions so you had an idea what might happen. This thing just had 2 buttons. Now I am quite nervous about the combination of electricity, water and my bare backside. I made sure I was well away before I pressed one button at random. Made the usual flushing noise. All good. But then came this much louder, grinding noise. What on earth was it doing? Cancel that. I don’t want to know. But I sure as hell wasn’t going to press that during the night. Would have woken the neighbourhood.

    I now have the answer to one of the most pressing questions of the century. I am not sure I should just share it with all of you. Who knows who might be reading this and the use that could be made of the information. Oh well, if you insist. It’s this. You know those wee tubes of toothpaste you can get as a freebie at the dentist? 15ml apparently. Well they last 25 days with careful use. So if you and your better half are away for a week’s holiday you will be fine but don’t try and get 2 weeks out of it. Won’t work.

    Camping tonight, therefore no electricity, so I was forced to take 2 hours over an avocado chicken burger and a litre of sparkling water. But footprint done and phone fully charged. Off to my tent now for another night wriggling about on that tiny blow-up mattress. What fun.

    This is as close as I am likely to come to glamping. One of their glamping tents is not being used tonight so I am allowed to pitch my wee tent on that pitch. But not allowed to use the shack that presumably has their toilet etc. I wonder if it’s electric?    Leia mais

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  • Stuart KilpatrickViajanteVia @ 70

    Bar-sur-Aube 14 miles

    7 de agosto de 2023, França ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    What is it with kids and trampolines? Do they never want to stop? I have had a go. It’s OK but a couple of minutes, tops, and I’ve had enough. For some reason they put the glamping tents beside the kids play park in this campsite. Oh yes, there was a hedge in between but there isn’t a lot of sound-proofing in a hedge. So there I was, lying in my tent which was beside the glamping tent, just building up a fine head of steam as blasted kids kept bouncing up and down on this massive trampoline just outside. Finally the damn great church clock near the campsite struck 10pm and silence reigned. But I had lost an hour of much needed beauty sleep.

    Now there is a strange thing about my tiny blow-up mattress. In the early days I found it almost impossible to sleep on. But last night I had little trouble. I don’t think I am that much smaller. It could be that I am getting used to a different place every night. I have now slept in 26 different places so I think I am just getting less fussy about where my head goes down.

    No possibility of breakfast this morning in the campsite or as I left town. Did come across a boulangerie later in the morning but it was a Monday wasn’t it.

    All roads today as I am going off route to save a day. The official route meanders a bit. No need.

    As I was walking along thinking I was miles from anywhere I heard a lot of squealing. Damn great tower sticking up out of the trees. Appears that there is an Alton Towers type of place very close by.

    Early arrival at tonight’s hotel so I dropped the bag and headed into town to see if I could catch a restaurant before they closed after lunch. No such luck but I did get a patisserie for quiche and cake. Bit cheaper. Caught up with domestic duties in the afternoon. Washing, charging phone, some advance booking etc. Tried out a Vietnamese carry out for tea. Not a great success. Made a change though.

    The one drawback with hotels is they often have TVs and there are few things more annoying than hearing your fellow guest’s TV blaring out through the paper thin walls. And unlikely to have a 10pm curfew. I do think I am becoming Victor Meldrew sometimes.    Leia mais

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  • Stuart KilpatrickViajanteVia @ 70

    Orges 21 miles

    8 de agosto de 2023, França ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    At 21 miles this was always going to be a fairly tough day but the terrain started to be distinctly hillier than the almost completely flat ground that I have been on before. On the plus side blisters seem to be a thing of the past and the weather is now more like the dry and sunny that I was expecting. Not hot yet, just a nice walking temperature.

    Came upon a bar during the day and celebrated with a juice and a Magnum and a wee seat with my shoes off. I know how to live. Apart from that it was a non-stop 8 hour shift. Mostly in woods. Not unpleasant despite the length. Feet and back both grumbling a little at the end but nothing that wasn’t repaired by a shower and a half hour lie down.

    During the afternoon I had a phone call from tonight’s chambre d’hote to ask if I was looking for an evening meal. Too right I was. Just finished it and very good it was too. The only slight issue was there was another pilgrim as well. 2 hours spent discussing Brexit with a Dutch guy taxed my social skills more than a little as well as being about 2 hours more Brexit discussion than I have ever had before or want to have again. Worryingly it looks like we are doing about the same distances each day so we may well meet again. But not tomorrow as he has arranged a 7am breakfast while I am going for my usual 8.30am. And we are in different places tomorrow night.    Leia mais

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  • Stuart KilpatrickViajanteVia @ 70

    Leffonds 0 miles

    9 de agosto de 2023, França ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Not a good day.

    At all.

    Woke this morning, opened my eyes and turned my head. The room appeared to move from side to side and back, continuously. Very dizzy. Felt very squeamish. Managed to stand and make the 2 steps to the basin for some retching. Made it back to bed. Repeated every now and again. After what seemed like ages the room stopped moving as long as I kept my head perfectly still. This continued for 3 or 4 hours. Walking completely out of the question.

    Eventually seemed to get better. Left me quite light-headed and weak.
    Was able to get a doctor’s appointment who thought it was an inner ear or cervical spine issue. She didn’t seem too concerned. Gave me some medicine to take if it happens again. As well as taking me to the doctors my hostess gave me a lift to my next accommodation. I think she was quite keen to pass me on and free up my room. She did charge for the lift which is not unreasonable. I was a bit of an inconvenience all day.

    I am now in a cute wee caravan in a corner of a massive garden. Also in the garden are a couple of horses and loads of chickens. I was very controlled over a 4 course pilgrim’s dinner as still quite delicate. Hoping that a long sleep will make everything fine for tomorrow’s walk.

    On the plus side I think my feet quite enjoyed a day in bed.    Leia mais

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  • Stuart KilpatrickViajanteVia @ 70

    Langres 17 miles

    10 de agosto de 2023, França ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Incredible feeling to wake up to normality. Yesterday morning was such a dark time. I thought the Via dream was over. I had no idea how I was going to get home. Had no idea what had happened or how long it was going to continue. Maybe for ever?

    Such a relief it cleared up when it did. And able to get checked out and a lift to the next place was magic. Can happily wave two fingers to those crying cheat. After all, if an ancient pilgrim had pulled a sickie he would just have been put on a donkey for the day. So there. Let’s hear no more about it thank you very much.

    Once I had got over the excitement of being able to get out of bed this morning I was looking forward to breakfast. There being a large chicken run I felt sure there would be a couple of fresh boiled eggs for breakfast. Planned a cute photo of two opened soft eggs, yolk running down nicely, especially for the Buc, him being such a fan of such things. No such luck. The French breakfast really is quite limited. Bread and jam or honey if you are lucky.

    It was great to get back in the groove with the walking. Blue sky most of the day. Nothing much to report there.

    When you are flicking through the usual boring photos of paths disappearing into the distance take a second look at the one with a road going off slightly right and a track going straight on because this caught me out. The map showed my route as continuing on the road, ignoring the track. Which is what I did. Checked in about another half mile and I was way out. Had to walk back to the junction and take the track. About the first time the map has been downright wrong. Not a very happy bunny.

    Was surprisingly tired when I reached Langres although that was partly because it is one of these old stuck on top of a hill, with ramparts all round, villages. Very picturesque to be sure but a steep uphill slog isn’t appreciated at the end of the day.

    Staying in an AirBnB place. No idea what the British ones are like but this one is a straightforward 2 bedroom apartment with one bathroom. I am in one bedroom and another couple is in the other and we share the bathroom, kitchen and living room. Just seems odd to me. I just hope they make allowances for pilgrims who like to sleep from 10 to 8 and take occasional trip to the bathroom in between. Funnily enough there was no room in the rucksack for a nice pair of winceyette pyjamas so I hope they are broad minded.

    Found a creperie for dinner. I am thinking it might be my favourite type of restaurant here. They seem to open early. One pancake is about all I can manage anyway and they are pretty cheap. Tonight’s offering was a fancy crepe with the usual litre of sparkling water. Job done for 15€.    Leia mais

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