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Via @ 70
  • Stuart Kilpatrick
lip – paź 2023

Via @ 70

Walking from Canterbury to Rome Czytaj więcej
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  • Stuart KilpatrickVia @ 70Podróżnik

    Aosta 19 miles

    31 sierpnia 2023, Włochy ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Spectacular day. Out before 9am after a poor, communal breakfast. Still cold but warmed up as soon as I got into the sun. Crossed over into Italy before the descent. Fabulous views. Best of the Via without a doubt. After the previous cloudy days it was clear skies when it really mattered. Big descent. Nearly 2,000m spread over 19 miles so quite hard on the feet but a small price to pay. Found a small supermarket who were happy to make me a sandwich for lunch. Bench nearby to sit on while eating. Fabulous.

    Passed a chap who appeared to spend his days keeping track of passing pilgrims. He had positioned himself at a point where all pilgrims were sure to pass him. Had an interesting record of those who had passed in June and July. Vast majority were Italians who, I suspect, would only have started at the Swiss border at the Col. He was seeing about 10 a day which surprised me as I have only met about 3 or 4 in the whole of France and Switzerland.

    Finally reached Aosta just before 5pm, after over 7 hours walking. What an amazing place. Chock full of tourists, shops, bars, restaurants and ice cream parlours. By far the most tourist-oriented place of the Via so far.

    Met Keith who is joining me for the next week. After the usual washing of me and my clothes it was out to check out the Roman ruins and have a pizza & beer followed by an ice cream for a fraction of the price in Switzerland. Love it.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Stuart KilpatrickVia @ 70Podróżnik

    Saint-Vincent 20 miles

    1 września 2023, Włochy ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Looking at the door to our apartment I was struck by how quickly the culture changes when you go between countries on the continent. Within the UK you cross a border between Scotland and England and it isn’t obvious looking about you. But going between France and Switzerland and, more recently, between Switzerland and Italy the changes are immediate and quite startling. Some examples. Going back to the door. This was an inside door to our apartment, from a stair serving 4 or 5 apartments which itself was secured by a locked door. And yet our door required a 5 point steel bar mechanism the like of which I have never seen before. The day before, in Switzerland, at the hostel, there were a couple of hundred folk staying with all their fancy gear lying about, not a locked door in the place. The corridor was littered with fancy phones, bike batteries, GPS units galore all spending the night being recharged.

    The traffic. In Switzerland anyone approaching near a zebra crossing brought all traffic, both ways, to a halt just in case you decided to cross the road. A couple of hours drive across the border in Italy and, if you are foolhardy, you can just about persuade drivers to stop if you throw yourself onto the crossing but I really wouldn’t advise it.

    And then we have the prices. In Switzerland they frequently have an odd rule about a minimum spend of 10SFr in order to pay by card. I say odd because it is almost impossible to buy anything that costs less than 10SFr. In Italy I bought 2 pastries and a sort of tart for our (healthy) breakfast for about 4€.
    Anyway, I digress.

    An interesting day’s walk. Weather was just about perfect. Temperature in mid twenties, blue skies, a cooling headwind enough to refresh but not chill. I had decided against the official route which tended to climb from the valley floor only to drop down after a while and then go back up again. And repeat. Scenic but knackering. Instead we took the cycle route which stayed on the valley floor, close to the river, mostly on a dedicated cycle path. Probably annoyed some cyclists. Quite hard on the feet walking 20 miles on road surfaces but much kinder on the legs. And it meant you were able to get some lunch. Had a piadina which is a sort of flat bread. Fine and very reasonably priced.

    Very fancy hotel although the double bed was split into twin beds faster than you would think possible. Dinner of charcuterie followed by risotto. Very good.

    Important discovery on ice creams. Apologies for those who are way ahead of me on this but it was new to me. You get far more ice cream for two scoops on a cone then in a carton. Impossible to eat without requiring a shower and change of clothes but worth it. Extensive experimentation will be done over the next 5 weeks believe me.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Stuart KilpatrickVia @ 70Podróżnik

    Pont-Saint-Martin 18 miles

    2 września 2023, Włochy ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    In keeping with the posh hotel, breakfast was possibly the biggest spread of the trip. Certainly since Canterbury. We did our best.

    Another lovely day for walking. The route seemed to either go up or down in the morning. I do quite like level but it didn’t do much of that. Came upon an interesting water dispenser. For the princely sum of 7 cents the machine would dispense a litre of water, sparkling or still. Chilled even. Perfect for pilgrims. The only slight gripe is we have no idea when we might come upon such a machine. So we have to lug water around in case there aren’t any more machines.

    Had a similar lunch to yesterday. Very pleasant although no chocolate. I am trying my best to cope with reduced rations. One curious episode at lunch. I went to the loo as is my custom on these occasions. It appeared to be occupied at least I was unable to open the door. Time passed. The barman passed a few times as well. No action. Eventually the barman pressed a buzzer behind the bar that released the door and he indicated I could enter. I know places in the UK often have signs saying toilets are for customers only but this is taking things to a new level. And why didn’t he open the door when he saw me waiting. Was it a power thing? If he doesn’t like the look of someone does he just never open the door? It might have been nice to notify folk of the procedure by a note on the door rather than leaving them standing with crossed legs indefinitely. Not impressed.

    Passed an old tractor as we walked. Not an uncommon occurrence on this walk. Keith pointed out the manufacturer. Lamborghini. Keith says they also make motor cars and he found the combination of product lines quite interesting. I share this in case anyone else is equally enthralled.

    I didn’t have an ice cream for lunch as I reckoned having one half way through the afternoon would provide a welcome break and a wee boost to help the weary legs. A suitable place was identified and progress towards it was tracked during the afternoon. Unsurprisingly, Sod’s Law being what it is, there was none to be had despite the village being quite a tourist trap in every other way.

    Tonight’s accommodation was billed as a bed and breakfast. I had requested two private rooms for obvious reasons. Turned out that we were in a 2 bed apartment. One bedroom had a double bed and a camp bed. It was indicated that the camp bed should be used by one of us. The other bedroom has 4 bunk beds. Food was laid out for breakfast including possibly the largest dod of cheese I have ever seen. The only slight quirky thing, and isn’t there always some quirky thing, is that a lady is joining us for breakfast. She is sleeping in another apartment, presumably on the same stair and we are to keep our door unlocked so she can simply came in whenever she wants. Hope she isn’t an early riser and has a strong constitution. I believe I can look a little scary if woken early in the morning, i.e. any time before 9am.

    The only restaurant in town seemed to be some sort of New York pizza place. Didn’t tempt us so we picked up some bits and pieces at a local deli instead. Very nice and we even tried to make some inroads in the hundred pound block of cheese as well.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Stuart KilpatrickVia @ 70Podróżnik

    Ivrea 14 miles

    3 września 2023, Włochy ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Madam was early but not too early. I was grumpy but, I thought, not too grumpy. Just non-communicative I would describe it. Anyway she left. We had breakfast and left too.

    Lovely day’s walking again. Varied terrain. Plenty of churches to look at (or not). The route seemed to dive up the side of the valley to a church and then come back down again. Because it was a relatively short day this sort of thing was tolerated. The alternative of staying on the valley floor would have involved walking on a busy road for long periods.

    Luckily folk in Italy don’t usually acknowledge passers-by to the same extent as in France because we came upon some sort of sponsored walk which involved about 500 folk walking in the opposite direction to us on the same path. The thought of saying 500 “Buongiorno”s beggars belief.

    Stopped for lunch in a beer garden selling street food. Had meusa, a type of very flat corn bread, similar to an Indian dosa, filled with salami and Philly. Water rather than beer although the beer looked mighty tempting.
    Much the same walking in the afternoon just a bit hotter.

    The best we could do for much-needed ice cream was to call in to a large Lidl on the outskirts of Ivrea. Slight danger that we might have had to buy a packet of 6 ice creams but did eventually manage to get individual own-brand Cornettos. Cold and refreshing and as good as their 79cent price tag would suggest.

    Tonight we are in the Ivrea Canoe Club hostel. Bit of an institution in the pilgrim world. Great view of the canoe folk from our window during the day but at night it sounds like you are “sleeping” right beside Niagara Falls.

    Dinner in a nearby restaurant was fabulous. Seafood spaghetti with profiteroles to follow. If Italy continues as it has started I am going to come back very chubby indeed, walking or no walking.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Stuart KilpatrickVia @ 70Podróżnik

    Santhia 23 miles

    4 września 2023, Włochy ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    Early start as this is one of the longest days of the whole walk. It seemed there was only 3 of us in the hostel, which can probably accommodate dozens. We raided the “help yourself” stores for a banana. There had been two but our lady friend from before left before 7am and grabbed the other one. That kept us going until we hit a cafe for a cappuccino and croissant (filled with raspberry jam). Very nice and only about 6€ for both of us.

    Yesterday we left the Alps and so the terrain is much flatter. I think by tomorrow it is completely flat but today’s hills were very gentle. The work today was all about distance covered, mostly on tarmac, and the heat. Suspect it is back up about 30C.

    Had to go a little off route to get somewhere for lunch. A wee bar serving toasted focaccia filled with ham and cheese and bottled water. Again great value and just what was needed.

    Tonight we are in a BnB. As usual you have no idea in advance what to expect. I had tried to book single rooms but by the time we arrived we were so knackered we would have accepted (almost) anything. Initial signs weren’t great. A block of flats. Pressed the buzzer and the lady unlocked the door and said she was on the 4th floor. She waited until we had almost reached her, took about 10 minutes, and then asked why we hadn’t taken the lift. Turned out that she had 2 one bedroom apartments for us so we didn’t just have our own room but our own apartment. Very comfortable.

    I asked for a restaurant suggestion to which she said words to the effect of “not on a Monday”. She then decided one might be open and she would phone to check. Came back to say that it was shut except for hotel guests but she had negotiated to allow us to eat on the basis that we were pilgrims staying with her. Ended up very confusing and we had far too much food, although it tasted fine and was reasonably priced.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Stuart KilpatrickVia @ 70Podróżnik

    Vercelli 17 miles

    5 września 2023, Włochy ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Diy breakfast as in our host dropped off a couple of croissants in my apartment before I got up and we had them and coffee, orange juice etc. Headed out of town which was a lot livelier at 9am on a Tuesday than it had been on a Monday early evening. It seems Italy really doesn’t do Mondays very much at all.

    Got to thinking about birds today. Started when we stopped in the only potential feeding station of the day. Had a cheese and ham toastie and juice and then went to the loo as is my want. Standing there when my eye was drawn to a Pirelli style pin-up of a young lady. How very sexiest I thought until I noticed that, for the ladies, who I believe invariably sit on these occasions, on the opposite wall and at a suitably reduced height was a poster of a rather scantily clad gentleman who allegedly works as a fireman. That’s all right then.

    Later on while wandering endlessly through rice field after rice field I noticed the other type of birds. The ones that fly. Got to wondering how they work out flying together. Firstly you have the geese flying south for winter. How do they decide who is going to lead? Do they take votes? Does it go to the oldest? Or is it like our royal family? The leader hands the leadership down to one of his bairns. Is there a crown or a fancy feather? And do they bicker over who is going to fly next to the head burd. Lords and ladies etc.

    Then we have the ones I saw today where you have half a dozen taking off together. Is there a Biggles in charge who makes the decision to take-off? How does he or she communicate with the others? Or does he/she simply start engines as it were and the rest go “help ma bob, we’re off” and make chase? I could go on (and on) but you get my drift. The mind wanders a little when the feet are just plodding left, right, repeat. This was a little like the flat lands of France but with a lot more farms, roads, railways etc.

    Walking with someone is very different to walking alone. You can’t really bang in Desert Island Discs. Bit anti-social even by my standards. But being male, talk is not continuous. There are big chunks of silence. Not a concept that I would expect females to really understand or am I being sexist now?

    Tonight’s hostel is, I think, the first I have come across being run by pilgrims for pilgrims. The couple in charge are looking after it for a week and then someone else takes over. They prepared an evening meal and will also do breakfast. At 7am unbelievably. Why? Anyway dinner was lovely. Veggie which made a pleasant change from most of the food so far. And as a real treat for everyone I made use of the washing machine & tumble dryer. My walking t-shirt and shorts have been worn every day for the last 8 weeks or so and I thought at was maybe about time they got something more than my effort at hand-washing. Slight concern that the dryer will reduce them to unwearable as that would mean the clothes I am currently wearing (you will be pleased to learn) are the only things I could wear. Bit limited.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Stuart KilpatrickVia @ 70Podróżnik

    Mortara 21 miles

    6 września 2023, Włochy ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    Well I managed the 7am breakfast. Just about. And only by having lights out at about 9pm. I do like the best part of 10 hours kip while doing this walking caper. Not sure if it’s because with 4 gents in a bedroom, which is a bit hot and stuffy anyway, sleep is possibly not as deep as at home and so you need longer to get the same recovery. It’s a good excuse.

    Anyway we were on our way at the back of 8am. Useful having an early start as another hot day was in prospect.

    Most of it was spent wandering along between rice fields and irrigation channels. Not the most exciting or interesting walking but a lot easier than the Alps that were now only visible in the far distance.

    Lunch was another ham and cheese toastie - not very photogenic. And lots of liquid. Sneaked in a welcome Magnum and a litre and a half of sparkling water during the afternoon. Loving the extra opportunity of refreshments compared to the French part of the Via even if there is the tendency to over-indulge - always a failing of mine.

    Staying tonight at a nice hotel with a very nice restaurant - bit fortunate as it was chosen for its value for money and proximity to the train station.

    Nipped out for a drink before dinner. Bit strange. Requested a couple of beers. The lad started pouring the first. Tap went off half half way through so we chose a different beer. He poured most of one beer and half of the other and that tap went off as well. After pottering about he just gave us the two glasses and said no charge. What a civilised country. Free beer.

    Another early breakfast planned for tomorrow in view of Keith’s departure by train for Milan airport. Will be strange going back to solo walking for the rest of the Via, just me and Desert Island Discs. Unless I pick up a couple of Italian girls like my last Via, of course.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Stuart KilpatrickVia @ 70Podróżnik

    Garlasco 13 miles

    7 września 2023, Włochy ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Had usable air-con last night which was a real pleasure. Often I find it just too noisy to be worth it but last night was fine. Early breakfast as Keith had his train to catch. Surprisingly average breakfast as the hotel’s dinner had been pretty good.

    Chilled out for a bit before departing partly because it was a fairly short day and I didn’t think I would get into the next place very early.

    The downside of leaving late was it was already uncomfortably hot by the time I was walking. Seemed odd initially to be on my own again but I got into the swing of it with the help of the radio. The terrain helped too with almost a French feel to the long path between large fields. I confess I only feel like a real pilgrim when I am on my own. When I am with someone it feels more like being on a walking holiday. Somehow solitude feels necessary. Better stay clear of all those Italian girls this time round then.

    Nipped into a church for a break this morning. They do provide a relatively cool, shady seat and it feels like the appropriate pilgrim thing to do. Had a half hour blether to Anne while I was in there.

    At lunchtime, rather than getting a sandwich/toastie plus water in a bar that Keith and I usually did I went for the supermarket fruit, crisps and large bottle of juice instead. Ended up sitting on the ground in the car park with it. I had been quite happy doing this in France but it now seemed less satisfactory than the bar. It isn’t the food or drink that’s the problem you just feel more recovered after sitting on a proper chair with a table in a (hopefully) cool bar for a half an hour rather than sitting on concrete outside. Lesson learned.

    Rolled up to the hotel at the back of 3pm only to find it was derelict. Bit disconcerting as Booking.com had taken my money some days ago. Strange. Took a further look round the back and found that it was just the main building that was no more. Some enterprising soul was using the newer, motel type units round the back and running a sort of BnB enterprise with the same name as the defunct hotel. Happy with that especially as they had air conditioning. The chap recommended a pizzeria, unfortunately over half a mile away, but as it had been a short day it seemed churlish not to take his suggestion. When ordering, from an English menu, you could choose between regular, thin or thick pizza. I was tempted to go for the thin one as I hoped it would be smaller but I was told in time it was much larger. Don’t understand but possibly it was a lost in translation thing. Rustica for those interested. Very nice too.

    And the local gelateria had to be sampled on the way back.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Stuart KilpatrickVia @ 70Podróżnik

    Pavia 15 miles

    8 września 2023, Włochy ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    Was told last night that breakfast was at 7am because other pilgrims had requested that. Bit odd as breakfast is just a cold buffet. Essentially croissant or bread, some meat and cheese (sometimes), yogurt, maybe some fruit, and coffee. Anyway, after what seems like a lifetime of training, I did as I was told. No sign of the other pilgrims. No matter, it got me going before the day got unpleasant. Not sure if I’ve mentioned the heat but it is still over 30C every day even after 7pm. Apart from a couple of days going over the col I feel it has been too hot for weeks now.

    Mostly obvious paths or on road but did have the occasional “try and find the path” moment. Nothing too tricky. What was difficult was finding somewhere to have a seat in the shade for a bite to eat and a rest. Just nothing so I ploughed on and completed the 15 mile day in one go. Did mean I arrived in Pavia for a 1pm lunch prior to checking in at 2pm. Rested up for a couple of hours which meant it was very slightly cooler for having a look at Pavia. Nice covered bridge (recent reconstruction of a 1354 one which itself was a reconstruction of a Roman one). And a couple of churches. Service taking place in one with about 10 attendees at most. Struck by how similar it seemed to my ignorant eye compared to the Church of England one back in Canterbury. Apart from the lack of singing.

    Dinner tonight was at a recommended restaurant nearby where my hostess had arranged a 12€ pilgrim’s menu for her guests. All very well but it meant that instead of a menu which I could take my time over translating the waiter just reeled off some choices and I could pick. At random because my Italian is non-existent. Ended up with spicy pasta followed by fried fish and salad, and then tiramisu. Could have been a lot worse.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Stuart KilpatrickVia @ 70Podróżnik

    Santa Cristina e Bissone 18 miles

    9 września 2023, Włochy ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    One of those days when the hostess puts out some bits and pieces the night before in your room for your breakfast and you help yourself before you leave. Sometimes it is good, sometimes not so much. Today was a little light but boosted by a half melon which I have been carrying around for the last day and a half. Really needed to eat or ditch as it weighed 700gms.

    Left by 8am and Pavia was still very quiet for my walk out.

    Some of you may have noticed my “fondness” for dogs. I come across many of them on the walk and I have noticed a difference between country dogs and town dogs. Town dogs are just about ok. It isn’t really the dog so much as their owners. They keep the hounds in the garden roaming free to terrorise passers-by but crucially from behind a solid fence. So apart from irritating loud barking I am safe. But out in the country they are often allowed to roam free. Just waiting for the next pilgrim. Highlight of their day I suspect. While I don’t mind being a highlight I would rather I wasn’t a mutt's highlight.

    Although today was longer than yesterday it ended up being a bit easier. Occasional shade, less traffic, several rest stops and a slight wind all helped.
    Churches are proving wonderful rest stops. Unlike bars, cafes and restaurants they are invariably open. Limited menus admittedly.

    I have noticed while looking back at previous photos that each church looks very like every previous one. Some are bigger than others certainly but there is a definite theme going on. I might just sneak a photo of a previous one in some time just to see if anyone spots it. You have been warned.

    Wondered this morning whether it was ok to use them as somewhere to sit while I put my sun tan lotion on. No one else there to ask.

    In a hostel tonight so I think it will be hot. No air-conditioning or even a fan. The guy running it thoughtfully put us three pilgrims in different rooms but I came back from dinner to find that 3 more had arrived and had all joined me. Fab. Just what I need.

    Italians, so almost certainly they are just doing a wee section of the route.
    No choice for dinner. Just one pizzeria in town. It was fine but already getting a little repetitious.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Stuart KilpatrickVia @ 70Podróżnik

    Ospedaletto Lodigiano 12 miles

    10 września 2023, Włochy ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    The Via is full of unanswered questions. Last night, as I mentioned yesterday, there was only one restaurant in town, so where did the other 5 pilgrims go? The only explanation I can think of is they all went to the bar opposite and stayed drinking there until I left the restaurant and then nipped over for their pizzas. And where did the three Italians go until after 11pm? Surely not just eating pizza and drinking. I had lights out before 9pm but woke briefly about 11pm and they weren’t in by then. They got up about 7am and were on their way by 7.30am. I doubt I would be doing that if I had been drinking from 6.30pm to 11pm.

    I was on my way by 8am. Empty. Hadn’t gone very far before I realised I was catching up with another of the pilgrims. But slowly. So slowly that it would take an embarrassingly long time to overtake on a fairly narrow path. Do I engage in conversation - not my thing - as I pass, or ignore her altogether - seemed a little rude, we had slept in neighbouring rooms and she had said goodbye as she left. But I really hate “polite” conversation at the best of times and in a foreign language (she was Swiss) it would be beyond pain. In the end I wimped out because I planned to stop for brekkie in a village after an hour and I simply walked a bit slower and stayed a discrete couple of hundred yards behind.

    After my croissant and cappuccino I got going only to find the 3 Italians just in front. Given that they had started half an hour before me and I had stopped for 20 minutes what had they been doing? Overtook them on the other side of the road without engagement. But then I came up behind the Swiss girl who must have stopped in a different bar. All getting completely out of hand. Undoubtedly making a huge deal out of nothing at all. But there really isn’t much else to think about when plodding.

    At the risk of being both racist and sexist I have noticed that some Italian males have a habit of chewing the fat in cafes and bars with their mates in the early morning over an expresso or two. On a Sunday, the ones that aren’t doing that don their Lycra and get on their bikes, either singly or in groups. No gentle pedalling along, these guys, and they do seem to be exclusively male, all give it some stick. So what do the ladies do when their men are out blethering or sweating?

    One curiosity, in France at least, every second bike was electric while here I have only seen a couple of e-bikes in 11 days.

    Thanks to the early start and a short day I arrived at the trattoria which I had booked before 1pm. Got into my room, showered, washed my clothes, nipped out to a bar for lunch and was back by 2.30pm. Spent a few hours getting some of my accommodation sorted out. Well, trying to. Sending e-mails. Up to now virtually everything had been arranged before I left. But I now need to make some more bookings.

    Headed out to the only restaurant in the village cum town that was open on Sunday. Had checked out trip advisor reviews that had been quite glowing. Got there to find it was open but their kitchen was not. Just drinks. The chap tried sending me to some other place miles away but when I said I was a pilgrim so no car available he offered to make something. I could join the staff for their tea. Very kind but with my fondness for communal meals but I would rather have my fingernails removed.

    Walking back I passed an open gateway with music playing and folk milling round, some with drinks and plates in hand. Wandered in, all casual like, looking just like a Rohan-wearing local. It appeared to be a sort of concert or open day for a small music school. And they had a tent with beers and food for folk to help themselves. So I did. Just the job. Even listened to some of the music while stuffing my face. Amused to see a local down and out come in after me and do exactly the same. Neither of us could quite believe our luck.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Stuart KilpatrickVia @ 70Podróżnik

    Piacenza 14 miles

    11 września 2023, Włochy ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    Up early as I had a ferry to catch. The purists might be going “what?”, “sounds like cheating to me!” etc but the official line is that it is not just ok it is actually far more historically accurate than not using the ferry and going over the Po river by a large new road bridge. There is evidence that Archbishop Sigeric, whose route back from Rome in 990 is used as the basis for the Via, used the ferry at this place to cross the Po. So there. And it is shorter.

    But I had to get a friendly waiter at lunch the day before to phone the ferryman and book a space. Just as well as there ended up being 8 pilgrims and I don’t think the boat could take many more. He only goes once a day, at 8.15am and it was about 3.5 miles from where I was staying. Hence cappuccino and croissant and walking before 7am. Have to say that although it is truly grim to be up that early the walking is fabulous. So quiet and a lovely temperature.

    Please take note of the positioning of the sun behind the church spire in the photo. Takes extraordinary skill that does. And a certain amount of luck.

    Pleasant enough 20 minute ferry trip then a degree of faffing while we all paid and he gave us our stamps and recorded our details in a monstrous ledger. Undoubtedly the highlight of his day. Meanwhile I am becoming concerned about how 8 pilgrims will walk from there to Piacenza where undoubtedly we would all be staying the night. Luckily common sense prevailed and we set off separately in our ones, two and three if you see what I mean.

    Arrived at the “BnB” at the back of 1pm, in time to have a quick shower and still make lunch. Requested a small portion of spaghetti after seeing the mountain being served to a neighbour. That did me fine and I declined a second course. Amazed to see my neighbour finishing her plateful and then having an even larger main course. Don’t know how these folk manage it.

    Small quandary in the afternoon. Once washing done and short nap taken I was faced with whether it was worth a 2 mile walk back into town to check out the cathedral. I know many of you are really keen to get as many different church photos as I can manage so I got the shoes back on and went back. As extra incentives I got myself a haircut and an ice cream. Not at the same place you understand.

    Amused by the umbrellas strung up in some of the streets. Obviously not as windy here as at home. Can’t imagine that lot lasting long in a Scottish blustery day.

    Didn’t feel I needed any tea other than a 1.5 litre bottle of water. That should make sure I’m up and down like a yo-yo all night.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Stuart KilpatrickVia @ 70Podróżnik

    Fiorenzuola d’Arda 19 miles

    12 września 2023, Włochy ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    Usual brekkie. Departure slightly delayed by a phone call but still on my way by 8.30am or so.

    Was a little concerned by today’s walk because at 19 miles it was one of the longer ones and how would I be affected by the loss of hair. I am not exactly hirsute these days but I was fairly shorn yesterday. Would my strength be diminished? I’m glad to say I didn’t notice any difference.

    Somewhat to my surprise I have been listening to snippets of The Archers recently. They must have changed how they create podcasts at some point in 2014 because up to now if you choose a podcast you got the appropriate program. No more and no less. But for older selections they possibly based them on the scheduled timing with a margin. As The Archers appears to have been broadcast just before Desert Island Discs I now get the last minute of that program, just when the storyline is building a cliffhanger for the end. I suspect The Archers was daily whereas DID is weekly so I get a clip once every 7 or so episodes of the Archers and because I am working my way back so are the clips. I learned that someone really wanted their baby now, then she really didn’t want a baby, then she couldn’t possibly be pregnant, then she didn’t know what was wrong with her. Seeing as that is 4 weeks of stories they do seem to drag these things out a bit.

    Had a mile section on a busy road today but I had a white painted line giving me about 2 or 3 feet of “protection”. All the vehicles did keep to their side of the line but I was constantly staring at each vehicle in case the driver decided to check their phone, or look at their sat-nav or just lose concentration for a few seconds. It wouldn’t have taken much.

    Now in a tomato-growing area. They don’t use canes to grow them upright. Just on the ground. And then use a sort of combine harvester to collect them. Quite interesting.

    Bit of a disappointment when I got to today’s hostel. Firstly the guy said that there were no hostels open in the next intended stop. Which explains why no-one answered my e-mail requests. And when I got to my room there was a single bed and some bunks with 2 guys already grabbing the bed and lower bunk. I truly hate the upper bunk especially when the steps up are thin metal bars that are going to really hurt my tender feet. And it is like an oven. And at least one of them is sure to decide to get up stupidly early. There is always someone.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Stuart KilpatrickVia @ 70Podróżnik
    1

    Fidenza 16 miles

    13 września 2023, Włochy ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    True enough. There is always someone. In this case both of them. Not that they were together at least they didn’t seem to know each other on yesterday’s ferry but they each must have decided that 6am was a fine time to get up. I think they and everyone else staying here had left by 6.45am.

    Possibly unconnected with the above, but I briefly wondered which of my night-time activities persuaded the guy in the lower bunk below me that it was worth his while getting up in the night and moving his mattress and himself onto the floor for the rest of the night. He may not rush to get the bunk below me next time.

    To be fair I am going to try very hard to make sure there isn’t a next time. Dormitories have become my least favourite booking option.

    It was just as well that I am perpetually dehydrated as a night-time visit to the loo could have been fatal. Both for me and the guy trying to sleep on the mattress on the floor. Even in daylight getting safely off the top bunk and onto the floor was not straightforward. I am sure the grandkids could do it in an instant but this old man found it surprisingly difficult. Give it a go yourself sometime. And then try it in complete darkness while needing the loo quite urgently.

    Left before 8am and had the usual brekkie while sitting in the main square. For the first few hours it was delightfully cloudy. I wouldn’t say cold just a very nice walking temperature. Heated up a bit later but never as hot as recently. I think this was the last of the very flat days. There are some hills that are looming up. As usual with life I am looking forward to the change but very quickly I’m sure I will be moaning about the hills.

    The only accommodation I could get for tonight is a motel about a mile and a half out of town with nothing nearby. So rather than have a 3 mile walk for dinner I planned to go straight into town, grab lunch, check out the cathedral, buy some stuff for tea and go to the motel and stay there for the rest of the day. And start booking more non-dormitory accommodation.

    The lunch bit worked. I was standing looking a bit vacant in the centre of the town checking out my phone for likely restaurants when this old lady started chatting me up. And when I say old I mean pushing ninety. She was most insistent about something, I just didn’t have a clue what. We tried French. Hers was a good bit better than mine but we still weren’t making progress. But she wasn’t close to giving up on me. Eventually she tried accosting anyone else passing to see if they could speak English. Soon there were 4 of us. It turned out she was simply asking what I was looking for. I said lunch and the 3 of them went into an animated discussion about where to send me. Consensus reached and she dragged me off. The other two made their escape, finding my predicament quite entertaining. We went down one street, then another, and another and finally reached a trattoria but she wasn’t finished yet. She insisted in coming in with me. I was convinced she was going to join me for lunch. At what point does this become sexual harassment I wondered. She grabbed a waitress and had a long conversation, but finally seemed satisfied that I was going to get my lunch and so she left. Quite extraordinary. After all that the lunch was fine and a good bit cheaper than the fancy places in the centre of town, catering for tourists. This was very much for locals, to the point that the staff seemed to find my presence a bit odd. Or maybe it was just my girlfriend.

    Bit of an anticlimax after that. The cathedral was closed and I didn’t pass any food shops on the way to the motel. So, no tea.

    Had a thunderstorm later so I suspect I could be in for a change in the weather as well as the terrain.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Stuart KilpatrickVia @ 70Podróżnik

    Fornovo di Taro 22 miles

    14 września 2023, Włochy ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Naturally no breakfast. Not really happy missing 2 consecutive meals so I made sure I found a bar on my way through town for the usual. Oddly I didn’t come across any other useful shops on my way out. So no stocks of water or food for the day. Disappointing.

    As suspected the route has become much hillier. Today was spent in the foothills of the Apennines but tomorrow they start in earnest. Can’t wait.
    Last night’s thunderstorms had clearer by the morning leaving another sunny day although a bit cooler than of late.

    Got quite excited around lunchtime as I came across a couple of picnic benches with a water tap. Until I discovered that the tap didn’t work. Came across another one later on. Same problem. Looked the part but nae water.

    Finally, in the afternoon I reached a village with a small supermarket. Fortunately, being in Italy it was open all day. None of this French “shut from 12 until 4” nonsense. Tried to get a banana but seemed you had to buy the whole bunch. Ended up with cashew nuts, grapes and 3 litres of water. A fine feast and even have leftovers for tomorrow.

    In a BnB tonight which luckily did an evening meal as it was again one and a half miles out of town. This time up a great big hill as well but at least it is on the route for tomorrow. Shared dinner with a Dutch couple so put my endless social skills to the test. Requested a 7.15am breakfast tomorrow to try and make an early start on what will be a tough day. Over 1,600m climbing.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Stuart KilpatrickVia @ 70Podróżnik

    Berceto 18 miles

    15 września 2023, Włochy ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    I feel I have to mention last night’s dinner. Apart from my social ineptitude it was a splendid meal except for the first dish. In Italy this seems to be a plate of something filling like pasta or risotto so that you don’t want too much of the second dish, typically meat or fish. That’s fine except last night we got gnocchi. Made by the hostess herself and I am sure it was a fine example but the trouble is there is no space in my world for the stuff. It just doesn’t float my boat or ring my bell or whatever other silly phrase you fancy. Just no need. At all. Couldn’t come close to finishing it.

    I feel better for that. Sorry. But needed said I thought.

    Breakfast was grand. Even included a boiled egg. The Dutch couple were so taken with my company at dinner that they opted for a 8.30am sitting after hearing my request for 7.15am. Thus ensuring we didn’t meet at all as I was on my way at the back of 8am. Lovely cool morning. Perfect conditions if you ever feel the desire to lug a bag up a hill or two. Didn’t stop copious perspiration of course.

    Had the usual cha-cha nonsense with another couple of pilgrims. I have mentioned them already, a Swiss girl and a guy who doesn’t like sleeping below me. They are both going about the same speed for about the same distance as myself so we stay in the same town or village and start out at roughly the same time. I started catching up with the guy, then I took a slightly unofficial route and ended up ahead, powered away so as not to have to talk but after a while started catching up with her. Decided to go off route for a comfort break and let them both get ahead. The one good thing is they seem as happy not speaking to me as I am not speaking to them.

    The combination of dinner, decent breakfast and a cooler day meant I was still in good shape on arrival. In a BnB and I opted for the in-house dinner when offered. Bit hit or miss but so much easier than wandering about trying to find somewhere I like the look of. Went for cream of vegetable soup which was very good and a pleasant change from pasta. But then had sausage which came with a salad. Trouble was the sausages were somewhat dry and they were literally 2 sausage-shaped burger things with nothing else. The salad was just chopped cabbage. Crying out for a poke of chips and unlimited tomato sauce. Had to resort to sneaking one of them into a napkin and stuffing into my pocket for disposal tomorrow. Didn’t want to offend by leaving it on my plate.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Stuart KilpatrickVia @ 70Podróżnik

    Pontremoli 18 miles

    16 września 2023, Włochy ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    One of the better breakfasts so far and I got a couple of bananas and a large bottle of water as I left town so felt well stocked. Downside was the bag felt heavy especially over the first 4 miles when I climbed over 400m. The day was billed as “a challenging and beautiful stage” and it was. Slight rain to begin with, but skies had cleared by the time I reached the summit. Great viewpoint and I was feeling so good I took a rare selfie.

    I foolishly thought that was the day cracked. What I hadn’t twigged was that the total ascent was 1,270m and the total descent was 1,833m and I had only done 400m of ascent. The secret of those figures is an awful lot of nasty little climbs and descents that took a toll on legs and feet respectively. I have been using fell running shoes for the trip. 3 pairs of them as they only last about 500 miles. They are wonderfully light and comfortable on anything other than rocky, stony ground, especially when descending. It seemed that today’s descents appeared to be all rocky or stony which made for slow and painful progress. Took 9 hours pretty much solid walking. (The 2 bananas didn’t take much time to eat). Temperature was fine and I spent a lot of the day in shade going through woods so didn’t feel too bad when I finished. Feet feel a little bashed.

    The BnB is a bit quirky. I have about the largest room I have ever seen in a private building. A queen size bed and a single bed, settee and chairs, massive wardrobe etc all round the outside and a very high ceiling. Stuff for breakfast has been left in the corridor outside. I am guessing it is part of very old Pontremoli.

    Out for dinner and just picked a pizzeria out of laziness. Trouble was the menu stated that all their pizzas are big enough for two. That doesn’t help the solo pilgrim. Turned out I could just order a half pizza which I did. Worst pizza I have ever had in Italy but the total bill including a litre and a half bottle of sparkling water was less than £10 so can’t really complain too much.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Stuart KilpatrickVia @ 70Podróżnik

    Aulla 20 miles

    17 września 2023, Włochy ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    The big question for today was whether to stick with the official route for 20 miles wandering about the countryside or stay on the road which would reduce the distance to just 15 miles and would be a lot flatter and a much better surface and surely the road would be quiet as it was a Sunday after all. Bit of a no-brainer except the road was busy and on the first section that I saw there was a cliff running along right beside the road. So no way to get off the road if a driver didn’t move out. And the road looked that nasty width where 2 vehicles can pass easily and at speed but there really isn’t room for a pedestrian and 2 vehicles. Cyclists will be familiar with the problem.

    So 20 fairly hilly miles it had to be.

    And a lot more pleasant it was I’m sure. Plenty of time in trees so lots of shade. Not too stony on the descents. Even had a well placed bar for juice and crisps at lunchtime.

    Arrived by 4pm and settled in to the dreaded dorm. 5 of us tonight. At least I have a bottom bunk and there isn’t anyone above me.

    Headed off for a Chinese for dinner. I know I shouldn’t. Getting an Italian version of Chinese is high risk. Made even higher because I couldn’t make sense of the menu. Thought I ordered ok. Starter, chicken with cashew and rice with seafood. Except they treat the rice as a first plate and expect you to finish it before you get your chicken. Apart from that the food was ok. And it was cheap.

    Got back to the hostel at 8.30pm to find the rest were already in bed with the lights off. I hate to think what time they will be up in the morning. Don’t think any of them are posting much of a penguin report.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Stuart KilpatrickVia @ 70Podróżnik

    Sarzana 11 miles

    18 września 2023, Włochy ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Well the earliest room-mate was up at 6.10am he proudly told me as he finished his packing at 8am when I left. So what on earth had he been doing for nearly 2 hours? Everyone else had left by the time my alarm woke me at 7.30am. For the walkers the only practical next stop was only 11 miles away so why leave so blooming early? It isn’t that hot these days. Pleasant but not roasting. The chap still packing was a cyclist and I was intrigued to be told that he was just going to ditch his bike in Rome rather than pay Ryanair’s charges. He bought the bike years ago on eBay for £40 so didn’t think it was worth taking home. What fascinated me was that he chose to cycle from France, through Switzerland and down to Rome on a clapped out banger. I think I would have preferred a better bike and pay the charges. Surely they couldn’t be that high?

    Although it was a short day it did have a couple of 300m ascents to start with just to help build up a sweat. Passed close to one of these hilltop villages with a ruined castle that they go in for hereabouts. Didn’t seriously consider visiting it in view of the extra climb required but later regretted it as the views would have made it worthwhile. I could just about make out some of the view through trees but it was never very good. Live and learn I suppose.

    Got my first glimpse of the Med. The photo is not great but if you look closely you can just about make out a boat on a patch of grey sea beneath grey sky. I get closer tomorrow so I’m hoping for a bit of sun at the appropriate time. The route never actually gets to the sea, it gets about a mile away and then starts going back inland again.

    Arrived about 1pm but entry to the apartment was from 3pm. Spent an hour having lunch and then phoned, hoping for the best. I was in luck, the chap said he would be there in 10 minutes to let me in. Grand apartment even if a bit rundown. Not having to share a bedroom with randoms helps too. Had plenty of time to get organised, get some shopping, visit the cathedral and organise some more accommodation booking. Put my washing on the outside line to dry just like a local. Bit put out when it started to rain shortly after. Rather dampened my excitement.

    Tea was a little odd. Went to a pizza place suggested by my host, said it did local pizzas. I didn’t understand his comment but my pizza ended up looking like a Scottish chip-shop one. Small in diameter but fairly thick. Alright but not great although can’t grumble about a 10€ cost included a pint of Peroni.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Stuart KilpatrickVia @ 70Podróżnik

    Massa 19 miles

    19 września 2023, Włochy ⋅ 🌩️ 21 °C

    About the only downside to having an apartment rather than a room or just a bed in a dormitory is it gives you more places to put your stuff. And in the morning you need to get hold of all that stuff again. Moving on every day for over 80 nights gives plenty of scope for leaving all sorts of useful things. This morning I nearly made the basic error of not pulling back the bedcover. The problem arises when you are alone in a double bed as has frequently been the case in this walk. Things get dumped on the unused half of the bed. The cover ends up over them and you never notice. Disaster avoided this morning but only just.

    This morning I discarded a specially bought, but hardly used, bottle of shaving oil. I thought it would be a relatively light way of taking something to help shave. But actually I much prefer using whatever shampoo or soap is around and I’m not continuing to carry anything that isn’t needed. Might be worth going through everything just in case there are other bits and pieces I can discard.

    I have had to buy more suntan lotion as 2 x 300ml bottles have proved not quite enough. Was in a discount supermarket and scoured the shelves looking for it. None to be seen. Ended up in a chemist. Couldn’t see any. Asked the assistant who went to the bottom drawer of a cupboard and rummaged about, finally bringing out a choice of two. I asked if Italians don’t use such stuff. She laughed and said “not now, maybe next August”. Still seems pretty hot to me. There aren’t many days I think I can get away without a liberal smearing over any exposed flesh.

    Pretty straightforward day’s walking. Seemed to be in urban area just about all day. Only problem with that is if one decides to offload last night’s pizza. Bears and pilgrims may happily go in the woods but in amongst houses doesn’t seem quite right somehow. Luckily, I came upon a cafe and just had to have the second chocolate croissant of the day as an excuse for using their loo. Not sure how healthy they are but they do give a nice boost of calories.

    In a municipal hostel tonight. Bit like a youth hostel but no pretence to just cater for youngsters. Single rooms but shared bathrooms. Only 25€ so probably ideal for me. A huge step up from dormitories but still half the price of apartments/BnBs/hotels.

    The hostel is very central, on one of the main squares even, which makes my drying clothes (first floor window, above the flag in the photo) a bit more visible to the public in the cafes below. I just wish they would all go home now as it’s 10pm and I need my beauty sleep.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Stuart KilpatrickVia @ 70Podróżnik

    Camaiore 16 miles

    20 września 2023, Włochy ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    As suspected 10pm isn’t when the youngsters go to bed around here. But in truth, once the double glazed windows were firmly shut and the ear plugs were in place they were not a problem.

    Coolest day so far in Italy. No need for that expensive suntan lotion. I will be upset if it doesn’t get used as I only have hand luggage on the flight back so it will need to get binned. And the forecast for tomorrow is thunderstorms. Really wish the lotion could protect me from lightning strikes.

    Had a bit of fun today with the pedestrian crossings. It’s a bit like playing Russian roulette I suppose. You think it is going well but there is always the chance it won’t. The trick is understanding the Italian driver. He/She is not going to give way unless they absolutely have to. There is no point in waiting for the traffic to stop before you venture out. Because it won’t. You have to wait until there is enough of a gap for you to step out firmly and the oncoming car is able to make an emergency stop. Obviously if it doesn’t have time to stop it isn’t going to end well. But once the driver realises that if he/she doesn’t stop there is going to be a pilgrim sized dent in the car then they seem happy enough to make that drastic stop. So that is half the road controlled. The other half should be easier because they get more warning of your intention. Don’t expect them to stop just because you are crossing. They will only stop if they calculate that at your rate of progress across the road they will knock you down if avoiding action is not taken. I suspect that if they get their nose in front so that you walk into the side of the speeding car then it is simply more fool you. I haven’t put that one to test yet.

    Arrived at the BnB about 2.30pm so plenty of time to do some more booking. Think I only have 4 nights left to arrange. And tomorrow night should be my last dormitory night. Can’t wait.

    Out to a recommended place for dinner. Tried the mixed antipasti. Mighty good although I don’t know what everything was. And then pasta. Had a bit of trouble with communication. Waiter asked if I wanted to sit inside or outside. I said inside ( to avoid the dreaded smokers), he repeated “inside” but then led me outside. Later I requested white wine, he repeated “white wine” but then brought me red.

    On my way back I passed an open gelateria. There was absolutely no need. I was well stuffed already but it just felt wrong to ignore it.

    Anyway, I was quite short of photos. As if I have ever needed an excuse to buy ice cream.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Stuart KilpatrickVia @ 70Podróżnik

    Lucca 15 miles

    21 września 2023, Włochy ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Leisurely start as a short day. Woken by thunder and lightning during the night but it had all cleared away by morning leaving some cloud. Lovely temperature.

    Had a fair bit of road walking today which gave me more chance to study the Italian driver. Compared to the UK there seems to be a much higher proportion of them who just want to drive quickly. All the time. If there are 2 cars driving along you can bet the one behind is tail-gating and will overtake as soon as there is half a chance. Quite happy to do that in a built up area. I stopped briefly in a park in a small village with a primary school the other side of the road connected to the park by a pedestrian crossing. Didn’t stop folk overtaking right on the crossing I noticed. I’ve never seen so much overtaking in built up areas before. Yesterday the traffic was briefly stopped as a lorry was reversing across the carriageway. 4 or 5 cars were stationary. The next car decided to overtake them all and pull in between the first car and the lorry. This wasn’t some peak capped ned in a souped up Astra, no, this was an old bufty looking not unlike myself. The other odd thing was no one blew their horn or made any sign of disapproval. In the UK there would have been bloodshed at the very least.

    In the interests of speed they want to take the racing line at corners. All very well but if there happens to be a wee chubby pilgrim coming the other way as the car comes round a blind corner then we both get quite a fright. There may be just no way I can get off the road so they need to rather quickly take avoiding action. Going back to the Russian roulette it has been ok so far but it doesn’t feel the safest activity.

    Had some grapes today. Why has the continent not cottoned on to seedless grapes? Is it only the UK that has noticed that seeds are annoying? Won’t buy them again.

    Staying in Lucca tonight. Like arriving on a different planet. Tourists everywhere. A huge proportion being Americans. Not sure what they come here for but come here they sure do. But they don’t seem to be staying in this pilgrim’s hostel thank goodness. Bunks for 10 but only 4 folk. Strangely someone appears to have brought their own camp bed. A stonking aluminium frame effort (see photo). Now when they were packing their rucksack, making sure it was as light as possible, only taking essentials, how on earth did a camp bed get included? Unfortunately it appears to be young Italian couple so my chances of making polite enquiries seems limited.

    Managed to get a meal at 6pm for once. It did mean I was stuck with a tourist place in the middle of Piazza Angiteatro and you don’t get more touristy than that here. And it was a pizza again but being able to eat my fill for 8.50€ is awfully tempting.

    Managed to get back to the hostel and get this written before lights out is a major plus. No sign of the others yet so I will get to bed first. Almost certainly will get up last so the etiquette should be they have to crawl about in semi-darkness going to bed and then again in the morning. We shall see. And I get 10 or 11 hours in my kip. Can’t be bad.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Stuart KilpatrickVia @ 70Podróżnik

    Altopascio 11 miles

    22 września 2023, Włochy ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    My companions were reasonably quiet when they got in. Can’t really complain. In the morning the solo guy left early, not without waking me by persistent coughing. When I deigned to take the eye mask off and greet the day I noticed that only one of the Italian couple was still there. Very odd. Had they fallen out? Had one nipped out to get the croissants in? With a chocolate one for me? I pottered about, as I do, including putting in my contact lenses, when I noticed that they were in fact both there, just sharing one bunk bed. Silly old fart that I am because that never occurred to me. At least they had the decency not to try that nonsense on the camp bed, or worse still, on the upper bunk. Which makes the question of why bring the camp bed even more intriguing but, even for a social inept like myself, going over and asking them about it was maybe a step too far.

    I left before I had second thoughts. Really looked forward to seeing them overtake me later in the day with one of them lugging the camp bed but it didn’t happen.

    I have noticed 2 distinct types of tourist cyclist in this area. Firstly there are the groups of 20 or so Lycra-clad folk on road bikes, no luggage, staying altogether in Best Western type hotels, on some sort of Exodus or similar organised and led “Tuscany by bike” trips. Secondly there are the rather older couples on big heavy e-bikes, lots of panniers, and rucksacks, who don’t look like they cycle much at home. They don’t really know where to go, keep stopping to fidget, didn’t realise beforehand that light is good on a bike, especially when it comes to avoiding anything on your back. The signs showing the way on the Via for cyclists are now much more frequent than for the poor foot soldiers. Come to think of it I haven’t seen any pilgrims on the route for a few days now. My relatively late departures help with that, of course.

    Got caught by my heaviest rain by far at lunchtime, full-on thunderstorm, but luckily I was able to dive into a large supermarket just in time. Stayed under cover for nearly a hour as it passed. No rush to get wet. Noticed a couple of these groups of cyclists looking pretty miserable going past. Didn’t fancy that much. My only disappointment was that in the UK that size of supermarket would have had a cafe where I could have got a comfy seat, a coffee and a trip to the loo. Not in Italy unfortunately. None of the above.

    Despite the delay it was such a short day I was checked in before 2pm, leaving me all afternoon to get more accommodation sorted. Now fully booked all the way to Rome. Even worked out how to get to the airport in Rome. Brings that quite close now. Will be home in 2 weeks and you can stop having to read this damn thing every day. Relief for all.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Stuart KilpatrickVia @ 70Podróżnik

    San Miniato 18 miles

    23 września 2023, Włochy ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    Nice breakfast which included the owner’s mother’s apple tart. Excellent.

    And a good morning’s walk. Back into woods which makes a pleasant change from the very suburban feel recently. And should have made my morning constitutional somewhat easier. But it was a Saturday wasn’t it. So what you ask. Well in these parts the local fellas, who aren’t out in Lycra or chewing the fat in some bar with their cronies, like to commune with nature. This takes the form of putting on camouflage fatigues, grabbing a large rifle or shotgun and heading to the woods to blast anything that moves. I have no idea what particular bird or animal could remotely look anything like my bare backside but I didn’t want some short-sighted cowboy taking a potshot.
    What amused me greatly was, on stopping in the first bar for sustenance and an angst-free visit, all 5 pilgrims who happened to stop there too went for a visit as well. There is nothing quite like the occasional shot ringing out in the woods to encourage you to stay on the path and go in bars instead.

    It appears that horse-riders have joined the walkers, cyclists and motorists in heading for Rome. Wonder who is next. Skateboarders?

    Afternoon’s walking was more out in the open, along on top of dykes, beside canals, finishing up in a climb to a tourist-trap village on top of a hill that they go in for in these parts. I was just nearing the top when I got a phone call from the owner of the place I’m staying in to say that there was a plumber working in my room and I wouldn’t be able to get in for another hour. Bit annoying.

    Now I don’t consider myself a violent person as a general rule but I am having a little trouble with an unfortunate habit I’ve noticed. I am often asked if I was tired because I don’t jog up a couple of floors with whoever is letting me in to my room. I have probably walked up to 20 miles carrying a rucksack in considerable heat, not to mention being at least twice their age, so what exactly do they expect?

    Tonight’s room is another one of these ‘in the attic’ numbers where I am banging my head every time I move. It isn’t nearly as nice as it looks in my photo. But at least I am on my own.

    Out for dinner and started to struggle. Plenty of expensive restaurants preying on gullible tourists. Chose one at random, got shown to a seat, given a menu, and then promptly ignored. After 10 minutes I just left. But that didn’t help me get fed. Finally found somewhere fabulous. They were fully booked but if I could be out in an hour and a half they could squeeze me in. Not a problem. Lovely pasta dish for 7.50€. Less than half of the cheapest item on the menu of the first place. That will do nicely.

    Now just got to get through the night without concussion.     Czytaj więcej

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  • Stuart KilpatrickVia @ 70Podróżnik

    Gambassi Terme 15 miles

    24 września 2023, Włochy ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    While putting my socks on this morning I noticed I have been using my feet to clean the mangy floor. Required washing asap. Choice was shower - no good as just an overhead shower head and it seemed silly to shower when only my feet were dirty, bidet - if the floor was that dirty I wasn’t putting anything near that, which left the basin. Despite not being at my Stretch & Mobilise classes for a few months that was no problem. Never mind standing on one leg while brushing your teeth I think I could recommend regular washing your feet in the basin to help maitain your balancing ability. Stephen, you are excused that one, no-one wants to see your hernia yet again.

    It is a sure sign of a tourist trap of a village when I passed numerous restaurants on my way out but not a single useful shop. No food for today. Still it’s only 15 miles so not too much of a problem. I was also out of water but there were fountains apparently somewhere on route.

    Lovely walking today. Tuscany looking good although late in the year so not nearly as green as it would have been earlier. Don’t know what crops were there but they are long gone, leaving brown earth.

    No end of other walkers about. I must have passed at least 15. Almost all in 2’s or more. Not that I am walking faster than them all, I think, I just don’t stop to fidget as much. For example lots of folk need to stop to have a drink. Basic mistake. You really need to be able to take your bottle out of, and back into, your rucksack side pocket while walking, especially if in a group of 3 or 4. No idea where they are all going, or started from, I didn’t say more than hello to any of them. I’m not here to chat. Tomorrow I will start earlier and avoid this nonsense hopefully. At least 3 couples were American judging by their voices. Common factor is they were all just carrying what looked like day bags. They must be using a baggage transfer service.

    Passed a small memorial for the first batch of 150 Swiss troops that rested here on their way to Rome to become the Swiss Guards at the Vatican ever since. It is things like that that are reminders that the Via was the main route North to South for an awful long time.

    Arrived about 2.30pm but couldn’t get into my room until after 3pm. Plenty of time for a welcome ice cream. I asked in the local bar what time they served food tonight and got the reply 8pm. Bit late. No wifi in the b&b and no signal so I needed to head back to the bar to buy some water and use their wifi. It was pay-day at the playgroup and I had work to do. It’s amazing how long a Scot can drag out a bottle of water. While there I noticed that some folk seemed to be ordering food at 6.30pm. I moved fast. It seems that if you want something that they have already prepared, like lasagne, they were happy to heat and serve it straight away but if it needed actual cooking then you would have to wait. Excellent. Ordered and eaten before 7pm. Interestingly it is now about 8pm and there isn’t any sign of any cooking or anyone interested in food. Really don’t understand this country sometimes. Been forced to have a couple of pints while following the rugby and writing this epistle. Better get to bed now rather than hang about which would need another.     Czytaj więcej

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