traveled in 6 countries Read more Lethbridge, Canada
  • Day 63

    Wet, Wet, Wet

    July 31, 2023 in Canada ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    My front tire sluiced through torrents of water streaming over the sidewalk as I cycled like a fiend through the rain storm. There was no pretense at keeping a single inch of my body dry, cars on the road throwing up swales of water, soaking me with each pass by. My runners squelched and my soaking wet tie die shirt felt like a heavy second skin. How had it all come to this?

    Our day began with an energetic cycle on back dirt roads along the scenic Cape Breton coastline, gentle rolls of waves breaking on rocky beaches. Determined to keep those two wheels moving, in the late morning we biked a 27-km stretch of the Celtic Shores Coastal Trail — a repurposed rail line for cyclists in the summer and snowmobilers in the winter.

    So far so good. But it was the decision to bike a short 2 kilometres to Route 19 Brewery that was the fatal mistake. That and leaving the screened windows on our van open.

    As we sat on the microbrewery deck, a few raindrops began to fall. Our waitress jumped up at the first concussive boom of thunder. And then the storm came full on as we sought dry sanctuary in the brewery. The rain poured down from grey skies when we remembered the open windows.

    And so I volunteered to cycle back and return for Coleen with the van. Chivalry may not be dead, but I can assure you it is most definitely wet, wet, wet.
    Read more

  • Day 63

    A Rock in the Stream

    July 31, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    On our first day back in Nova Scotia, you would have found us at the Broad Cove Scottish Concert— an annual music festival since 1957. The venue is postcard pretty, located in a grassy meadow behind the St. Margaret Church of Scotland and a sprawling graveyard.

    Notwithstanding the nearby century-old headstones, it was a lively affair in the meadow. One of our favourite bands, the Barra McNeil‘s were the headline performers, but prior to them, a host of local fiddlers, highland dancers, singers, pipers, and church choirs showed off their musical chops.

    It was a delightful affair, kids, running around, dancing on the grass, all beneath a dramatic Nova Scotia skyscape. Coming off the Newfoundland ferry, well rested, made a big difference because we had the energy to both find the festival and partake in its musical magic.

    “ We are an island, a rock in the stream.”
    Read more

  • Day 61

    Taking Stock

    July 29, 2023 in Canada ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    We have gone as far east in Canada as we can go and our 3-week ramble around Newfoundland has come to a close. The Argentia Ferry to Nova Scotia awaits. A wee bit of a killer — 16 hours.

    We now follow our shadows to the west, with each cycle of the sun drawing us closer to home. It’s time to take stock …

    By the numbers:
    — this is day 61 of our TransCanada tour
    — we’ve travelled 13,000 kilometres
    — aside from Alberta, we’ve biked, hiked and ambled in 7 provinces
    — gas has cost us anywhere from $1.49 to $1.83 per litre
    — we’ve boon docked 17 times
    — we’ve seen moose, deer, black bears, raccoons, whales, puffins, ducks, Canada geese, buffalo, cows, horses, fish, hummingbirds, lobsters, pronghorns— a veritable Canadian Noah’s Ark.

    While we have been gone, news reached us of the death of my Aunt Pat and a dear family friend Ann Nyenhuis. Coleen and I marked our 39th wedding anniversary yesterday and the Earth continued to spin. I am reminded of Ferris Bueller’s comment … “Life moves pretty fast. If you don’t stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it.”

    Thanks to all of you who have followed this travel blog and pitched in with a heart or comment. One can get disconnected on the road, but it’s been a treat to have you looking over my shoulder and close despite the distances.
    Read more

  • Day 58

    Land Ho

    July 26, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Imagine yourself in the 15th century in the middle of the Atlantic in a small boat (by today’s standards) captained by a Venetian who has this crazy notion that the world is not flat. And … he’s figured out a shortcut to China by sailing west from England across uncharted waters.

    You’ve been at sea for 34 days. Perhaps you’re up in the crows nest trying to keep down your breakfast of salt fish, hard tack and ale, as the seas lurch the good ship Mathew back and forth. Is that a form on the horizon good old terra firma or has your imagination gotten the best of you. No — that’s land — Newfoundland.

    You’re about to alert the crew when from the deck below you hear the sonorous Italian voice of Giovanni Caboto cry out LAND HO — but in Italian of course. You’ve made it.
    Read more

  • Day 57

    Bonavista

    July 25, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Growing up I had heard of Bonavista, this beautiful part of Newfoundland. I’d have to say it lives up to its billing — rugged sea coast, beautiful old historical buildings, magical puffins, and a rich heritage. From fish merchants to sealers, kitchen parties, sailing boats, clothes on a line flapping in the wind,and of course the great big blue as far as one can see. Indeed a beautiful view.Read more

  • Day 57

    Dear John

    July 25, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    I wonder what John Cabot would have thought of Newfoundland some 500 years after first making landfall on the Bonavista Peninsula.

    Today, he would have seen brightly painted houses in Trinity, a mummers parade in Bonavista (billed as Christmas in July), and a world-renowned coastal hike with the cutest of names — Skerwink Trail.

    John would still recognize the beauty of the place, the blow spouts of whales feeding off shore, the screeching of seagulls the Charlie Chaplin walk of the puffins, and the purple irises dotting the landscape in the summer.

    New found land — for both John and for me some five centuries later.
    Read more

  • Day 55

    Home is …

    July 23, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    If home is a place name, then we returned yesterday afternoon to Lethbridge … Newfoundland. Didn’t have the same vibe as hometown.

    The house with grass growing on its roof was home to an outport fisherman’s family at one time. The hare we encountered on the Chance Cove coastal walk calls the forest home. And the moose — introduced to the island over a century ago, call everywhere home. Even highways at night.

    Fortunately, early this morning the two moose we saw skedaddled into the bush as we approached them on a rainy, curvy stretch of road. For now, our home has four wheels, a pull out couch for a bed, a two burner propane stove, and a temperamental refrigerator. But lotsa love within these glass and steel walls.
    Read more

  • Day 54

    Big Island, Small Community

    July 22, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Finnegan, our 1986 van, began dripping coolant shortly after we arrived on the west coast of Newfoundland. I connected online with the Happy Campers of Newfoundland — 200+ stalwart VW van owners.

    Over the past 10 days, we had Steve in Humber Village do a temporary repair, Ambrose in Boyd Cove root around in an old Westy for a part, and Scott in Topsail receive our online order and replace the coolant tank. No one would take one thin dime for their labours.

    Along the way, we’ve had serendipitous encounters with other VW owners and fans. Like the person who left a note under our windshield. And once you get talking to a Westy owner, there are tales to be told.
    Read more

  • Day 52

    Carefree Highway

    July 20, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We’ve been on the road almost 8 weeks and today found us about as far east as our travels will take us (short of hopping on a steamer and heading over to Ireland) — St. John’s, Newfoundland. It is a city akin to San Francisco — historical and hilly. A real test on one’s legs.

    Jelly Bean Row — known for its colour wheel of townhouse exteriors wowed us. A delicious meal of cod cheeks, salmon, and chef-inspired brussel sprouts sustained us. The deep voice and guitar strumming of a talented musician entertained us. He played two of my all time favourite songs — Mr Bojangles and Fields of Gold.

    The highway has been good to us — cares swept away by a slower pace to life and the thrill of new adventures each day.
    Read more

  • Day 50

    This is My Cathedral

    July 18, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Meet Gord, a retired lighthouse keeper, full-time philosopher, and local walker. We met him below a lighthouse he once kept. Friendly fellow who enthused that Long Point cove was his “cathedral.”

    And it’s easy to share in his zeal. Icebergs, breaching whales, and a sea horizon that stretched out until the thin line separating ocean and sky becomes indistinguishable.

    We saw more icebergs today along with whales surfacing, blowholes announcing their arrival and then their fabulously wide tails gracefully swooping up and back down to disappear under the waves, ending the breath-held moment.

    Nature’s cathedral indeed.
    Read more

Join us:

FindPenguins for iOSFindPenguins for Android