• AmyInWonderland
May – Jul 2024

Camino de Santiago Spain

Eight week trip starting in Biarritz France for a few days at the beach before seeing out on a forty day walk across the Camino Frances starting in St Jean PDP on May 12, ending in Santiago on June 20, 2024. Hopefully. Then onward. Read more
  • Trip start
    May 6, 2024

    Last day at home sweet home

    May 5–6, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    Last day at home on Tybee Island. Coffee, pack, relax, set intentions, prepare for the journey ahead. Plus enjoy some queso and a few Cinco de Mayo margaritas with Tom before Trina and I head out for France tomorrow. 👣🦋👭🍾↗️😁💓🥂Read more

  • 3-2-1 Blast off!

    May 6, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    Hanging out at the Savannah airport getting ready to take off to the ATL to Paris, then Biarritz France for a pre Camino beach chill! Trina is studying her travel preparation information, finally! 😁

  • ATL layover

    May 6, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    Had a lovely lunch in f terminal, almost Italian with a French Rose. Flight was leaving at 330 so we though getting there by 3 would be fine. Not. They were closing the gate as we boarded. Woops. Last ones on the plane and now settled and ready for take off! Au revoir! ✈️Read more

  • Paris airport layover

    May 7, 2024 in France ⋅ ☀️ 46 °F

    Cafe, croissants, and stretches in between flights. And we're not sure to make of the avalanche warning on our destination. 😄

  • Finally French!

    May 7–10, 2024 in France ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Made it to the hotel in Biarritz, walk around town, lunch at outdoor Brasserie, tour of spa and pool we will be utilizing after a siesta in our lovely seaside resting place. Tres Bon!

  • Finally French

    May 7–10, 2024 in France ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Settling into Biarritz with a walk around the seaside town, stopping in a square for lunch at Brasserie Le George. The sunshine is cutting the chilly coastal breeze. Next up spa time at the hotel and maybe a nap.Read more

  • I see the light Phare de Biarritz

    May 8, 2024 in France ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    Tina and I have been enjoying our visit with a great breakfast, a spa circuit in the sauna, pools, and hamam. Our philosophical history basque tour was cancelled, so we walked up to the lighthouse, complete with a hilltop bar to enjoy a few drinks overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. It's a beautiful sunny day and life is good!Read more

  • Feeling Froggy - Carpe Diem

    May 9, 2024 in France ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Final day of R-N-R in Biarritz. We woke up early to a dense sea fog, a common thing around here due to the Pyrenees mountains meeting the sea. After breakfast we met Alan, our local guide for a private tour of his hometown, learning about the history, culture, and geology of the region plus a sprinkle of spirituality, philosophy and folklore.

    The rest of the day was spent enjoying the sun, scenery and spa amenities at the hotel - pool, sauna, hammam, and beach while Trina went on her own adventure exploring the town and coming back with snacks and wine to have a happy hour picnic on our balcony. We concluded the day with a sunset stroll along the shore to find Trina some seafood.

    We depart for St Jean PDP tomorrow to prepare for "the real" journey ahead. We are getting weather reports of rain all the way to Pamplona for our first days on the Camino. Not ideal, but it is what it is. So, we decided to "Basque" in the sunshine today.

    Carpe diem.
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  • Packing it up and heading to the hills

    May 10, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Listening to jazzy French radio and packing it up for our ride to the foot of the Pyrenees in St John pied de port France for our last two nights before we set foot onward and upward. Will post an update later today.Read more

  • St Jean PDP the foot of the Camino

    May 10–12, 2024 in France ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    We arrived here yesterday afternoon and got settled in our Airbnb "Plan B" right on the main drag near the hiking store and the pilgrim's office.

    We shopped for food supplies for our trek over the Pyrenees, while we washed our laundry in a machine located in the parking lot of the grocery store. We met up with our small group of fellow pilgrims that we will be walking with for the next 4 days, and then enjoyed tapas and sangria and dinner and a sunset walk up to the citadel, then back down to the river to have wine for a nightcap.

    Saturday has been a day of preparation for our pilgrimage, starting at 10 am with trekking pole practice session with Nancy our guide until Pamplona. We had lunch at a creperie, and a last minute stop at the hiking store for a few supplies. Now it's time to pack it up, make a picnic for the road, get a hot shower, and a good night's rest before we hit the trail tomorrow. There will be a church service at the cathedral in the Basque language tomorrow for anyone who is so inclined, then we will meet up for pastries and cafe and start our journey up the mountain. I think the weather is supposed to be pretty warm tomorrow hopefully the rain will hold out for later.

    St Jean is a quaint mountain village with steep cobblestone streets, wonderful pastries, cheeses, and tons of pilgrims walking everywhere from all over the world. This is the launch pad of the Camino Frances, although some people have been walking through France or other places to get to this point. The Pilgrims office had a line at it when we got here in the afternoon, but we waited until later and walked right in to get our credential which is our Pilgrim passport that we will get stamped each day along our journey.

    All of the albuques, or Pilgrim hostels are full, and the restaurants and bars were also full. After dinner it was strangely quiet as Trina, Cheryl and I walked around town. We had all the streets to ourself. I guess the rest of the people were in bed early maybe because they were leaving this morning. That was not the case for us.

    The sunset over the mountains was beautiful, it doesn't even get dark until after 9:30 here which is really nice to have the long days. The stars were amazing last night as well, I think the northern lights may be visible.

    Ok time to switch our mindsets from vacation mode into Pilgrim mode and hoping for a Buen Camino. ↗️👣🤞
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  • And on the seventh day we walked

    May 12–13, 2024 in France ⋅ 🌫 63 °F

    Hiked our first stage to refuge Orrison, an 8 km uphill climb with beautiful views, wildflowers, bulls, donkeys, goats, snails, sheep and fellow pilgrims. Made our way into the mist until we arrived the small refuge with a rest stop cafe where we would spend the night with about 50 other Pilgrims from all over the globe, USA, France, Spain, Portugal, Japan, Ireland, Holland, Thailand, Australia, New Zealand, Canada, and more.

    After our pilgrims dinner the tradition of going around the room taking turns for each person to introduce themselves and briefly state why they are walking the Camino. Each had his or her own reason and all seemed heartfelt. The food was good, the people were kind, and the atmosphere is quaint.

    Lights out at 10 pm so we are all in our bunks. Hopefully we will be rested and up for breakfast by 7 then hitting the trail to Roncesvias Spain over the peak tomorrow at 8.

    Buenos noches!
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  • Half way there, for today

    May 13, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    We are climbing over still in France halfway to Roncesvias Spain. One more Ascent and then it's all downhill from here, literally hopefully not metaphorically.

  • Now in Spain

    May 13, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Made it to Roncesvias Spain around 4 after a slow walk here up, up, over and down. Had a nice dinner last night at the hotel then visited with some other Pilgrims. Stayed up too late the packing my bags and prepping for today. It rained pretty hard during the night and there is rain expected today. As I wake up this morning, other than being a little foggy headed, my feet and buddy feel good. We met at 8 and start making our way to the Zubiri.Read more

  • Enchanted forest walk

    May 14–15, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    Had a great walk today through multiple enchanted forests over many stepping stones leading over mountain creeks. Lots of moss and wildflowers and rocks and cute slugs and beautiful Norwegian spruce trees. Climbing up, walking down making our way through the woods and fields and hills and towns and around squishy mud bogs left by the rain last night. Stopping twice to get Cafe con leche and a snack in little village bars. Finally made it accross our last pass, then to Zubiri for the night. Had a lovely pilgrim's dinner at the albergi. Now time to pack and get ready to head to Pamplona tomorrow. Buenos noches!Read more

  • The pausing of the bull

    May 15–17, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    We have arrived in Pamplona! We are checking into a hotel for tonight and then for a rest day. It is time for a pequito siesta.

    We can definitely start to feel the differences in our feet and bodies after walking 34,000 to plus steps a day. The walks have been both magical and challenging. Ducking in and out of forest, walking along the Argo River, weaving our way over it, on top of old bridges, or a long slippery gravel paths that go in and out of the forest lined with moss covered trees. It's beautiful scenery. All the while your feet have to figure out what to step on next to get you down or up the path.

    Today we took a few breaks along the way had a Spanish tortilla which is eggs and potatoes very delicious.

    We are definitely on the slow Camino, we left around 9:00 and got to Pamplona at 5:00. So much to see in photograph, take a rest, still figuring out the rhythm. Happy not to rush it.

    This is my kind of 9:00 to 5:00.
    ❤️↗️👣
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  • On the way to the Alto Del Perdon

    May 17, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    As we left Pamplona this morning we walked through barley fields lined with red poppies yellow flowers purple thistles blooming peas on the pod. Mostly on a nice gravel road as we made up our Ascent to the top where we will find windmills and the famous Camino Pilgrim sculpture.Read more

  • Leaving Obonos for Magic

    May 18, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    We spent the night in obino's, and we're treated by our amazing host Maria and Pedro to a home-cooked meal at their pension. We woke up to someone knocking on our door wanting our luggage so this morning has been a frenzy. No worries Pedro lovingly served as Cafe con leche and toast with homemade jam.

    Now it's 9:30 and we are heading off into the hills to our next destination 20 something kilometers away at a magical pensione sharing beds with five other people at kilometer marker 666. Should be an interesting day!
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  • Casa Magica Villatuerta

    May 18–19, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Arrived at albergi Casa Magica after a full day of walking across the beautiful countryside through Olive groves and vineyards and orchard and wildflowers. Inclines and declines but not too tough, especially with a few rest stops in the villages, or at a stand in the middle of a Olive garden. I followed a blue butterfly today for a while. It helped me go up the hill.

    We had a lovely homemade vegetarian paella for dinner with wine, a 3 course meal including wine for $18.

    Now time to bunk up with our fellow pilgrims for the night so we can get up and out before 8.

    Only 665 more km to Santiago!
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  • Stormy weather

    May 19–20, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Today we are officially one week in the Camino, walking around 135km, and it was an adventure. We left the Casa Magical albergi behind early for an action packed 25 k walk to Los arcos with Trina, Kathy from Atlanta and our Dutch friend Fred from Netherlands.

    It was a beautiful day with lovely weather until we got the last 8 km in an open stretch with no services, water, homes or protection. Just vineyards, Olive groves, a wine fountain, an artist camp, farmland and wilderness, all beautiful, exept our approach leading us closer to the ominous storm clouds containing thunder and lightning.

    As we walked through the fields of wheat, barley, and wildflowers, we scoped out ditches to duck in of needed. We didn't touch the metal on our treking poles. We kept walking because there was no other choice, really. We made it to the town of Los Arcos around 7 pm, soaking wet, 40,000 steps later. As we arrived a man warmed us if the danger "pericola!" Before is... the city Streets were fenced off for the running of the bulls in the for their fiesta tonight around 8pm.

    We were soaked and cold and wanted to get through to find a bar to call a taxi. I looked at our map app and it would be a 40 minute walk to our hotel. No way. We decided to watch for a while, bulls were a symbol I was looking for on the way and here they are stopping is in our tracks.

    I had a beer in my pack we bought 4 hours ago. We shared it in my old metal cup I brought to drink rosado from the famous bodegas Irache wine fountain earlier on our route today.

    We hid behind the fence with a group of local senoritas dressed in red and white and watched the festivities of bulls and boys running and jumping over the fence for a bit, then called the hotel for transport. Another 10 minute walk to get to that. Progress.

    As we arrived we were deliriously laughing. We didn't know we were staying in a truck stop outside of town near the highway. Well at least we could get a hot shower, put up our feet and not sleep with a dorm room full of other Pilgrims.

    This surprise destination feels like luxury after our long day, complete with a loaded convenience store filled with jamon Ruffles, candy bars and $5 bottles of vino tinto. Plus a bar restaurant where we had a not so great dinner, but happy to have it. I'm not sure how they gather a 3 star ranking, but it is clean and friendly and convenient... if you are in a car. A Camino, not so much.

    So grateful for a place to rest and not be struck by lightning today or trampled by bulls. Today was not the day for that.

    Life is good! 🐂♉🐂
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  • Rest Stop in Logroño

    May 20–22, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    After recovering from our 12-hour day on the Camino that ended with an exciting rainstorm and Bull run on Sunday, Trina and I decided it was time for a break, and one of our guidebooks recommended Logroño as a perfect rest stop. We got a ride on the highway A12 from our truck stop hotel to our two night rest stop in Logrono and checked into two nice private rooms located right in the center of town.

    My feet are in need of a break due to my pinky toes being very swollen and blisters are trying to form on my heel. Trina is fighting off a cold, probably from the sick New Zealand woman sharing our room of five beds in the Magical Albergi. She was coughing and admitted to being very ill and a nurse, one would think she should have known better than to be in a communal place. But, maybe there was nowhere else for her to go. Maybe she couldn't afford to take a taxi to the next town? Who knows. Anyway both of us now have sinus symptoms and I'm hoping it's just allergies. We've been walking through wildflowers for over a week and our bodies are adapting to this new environment and activity level. It'll be alright.

    In addition to resting up for our walk through the Rioja region, we have decided to use our two days of Camino "time off " to do some needed trip planning and other chores. First we had lunch at the classic Cafe Moderno, a vintage diner experience with lots of locals enjoying the 3 course lunch menu with vino.

    After a long lunch of salad, soup, chicken and fish, we strolled to check out the neighborhood and found we're staying right up from the famous Calle del Laurel a lively pedestrian Street in Logroño's old town featuring over 50 restaurants & tapas bars serving traditional pinchos. We tried a BBQ sandwich pincho on the way home with a cafe con leche, then went back to our hotel for a nap.

    We rallied around 5:00 and set out for the pharmacy, pop into the cathedral for a look at their famous art collection, and then to do our laundry while we plan the next stages of our trip through Sunday. We sat down in a bar on the corner and drank the Rioja de la Casa which came with a small bowl of pork rinds. Yum! We made reservations at the next 4 Camino stages in two hotels, one albergi, and splurging with a shared room at a Parador. We are breaking up our stages into smaller sections so that we do not overdo it. We have realized that 28 km in one day, with the assents and descents is too much for us at this time. And we are trying to get synced back up with two of the ladies that we walked with from St Jean who are one day behind is.

    Even though we didn't walk Monday, we made a lot of progress, including getting an excellent night's sleep in what would be considered a luxurious room comparatively speaking. There is a small Nespresso machine quietly luring me to get out of this very comfortable bed, that, truth be told, I could lie in all day. But, this town looks really interesting and it seems a shame to not spend some time exploring it. And there is an art deco cafe right next door with a lovely desayuno calling my name.

    Now that we have walked from the Navarra region into Rioja, I looked at booking a half day wine tour today, but we decided that may be too much to do if we want to successfully get back to our pilgrim life tomorrow.

    Today we will decide whether we will ship some items onward to Santiago at the post office to lighten our load. We will get our bags ready to take to the Albergi for transport tomorrow, and we will enjoy tapas and hopefully meeting up with our fellow Pilgrim Friends who are arriving in town today. And we will also rest so our bodies can carry us for the next 600 plus km.

    We are enjoying the journey.
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  • Short day to Navarreta

    May 22, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    On the road again today leaving City life for a rural walk through a long park to the country again for a quick stop on the way to Najera. We broke up the full stage in half to have 2 shorter days. We spent the evening planning up until next Monday to arrive in Burgos, there will not be much time for rest days in the week ahead as we prepare to change scenes once we got the messata in a week. So we have planned some private hotel bookings so we can be rested after long walking days ahead.

    Today's was a mellow walk with 3 Pilgrim Friends and a wonderful lunch when we got into town. We walked through the cathedral then got settled into our hostal for the night. Trina and I shared a private room with our own bathroom. It is quiet and comfortable and we will walk tomorrow with our friends who are also here.
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  • Camino Art in Rioja

    May 23–24, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Enjoy the nice 16 km walk from Navarrete to Najera through Rioja vineyards, olives, and peaches today leaving our Alberge at 9:00 a.m. and arriving around 1:00. Stopped at a cafe for a coffee after taking a .9k detour through an outdoor art exhibition in nature. The Pilgrim who goes off the path gets a reward!

    Walked the remainder of the trail with with Henry from Ireland who was on his second Camino, keeping me going at a faster pace, with Cheryl just behind us. We arrived in town in time to stop off at the first bar for a cold cerveza and a rest in the warm afternoon Spanish sun while we waited for Trina to walk into town.

    Found my way to the hotel and have been planning our next stages as we prepare to embark on the mesetta after Burgos next week. I can't believe we've already walked over 220 km!
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  • Almost paradise at the Paradore

    May 24–25, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    Well, after a 20K walk through the Rioja region farmland, we have arrived in an Oasis of historical luxury at the Parador de Santa Dominica. Not exactly a pilgrim hang out at all, but we decided to splurge. We checked in with a group of British car touring people with fancy cars right at the front door. I'm sure they were Lords and ladies, lol!

    It was a hot long walk, with only one bar rest stop, we made great time leaving just before 9:00 and getting here just before 3:00. We met new pilgrims along the way and chatted which makes the time pass by.

    There were peas and wheat and barley and grape vines and olives and peaches and cherry tea along the gravel road. We walked next to the old clay aqueducts lining the sides of the fields, still functioning with water flowing through them. We were only next to the highway for a little while but our path was far enough away that it did not matter.

    The Parador is a restored hospital, that used to be a Oasis for Pilgrims now or is a luxury destination. It has beautiful terracotta floors and marble bathrooms and we truly have gone into a vortex. Now time for a shower and to put on some sandals and head out to the streets to find a meal and a cold drink.
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  • On the road again! Rest stop in Grañon

    May 25, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    We left the comfort of the parador and now we're on the road to an algergue with a bunk and a pool. 22 km day today, left a little later, 9 am. Time for a Zuma de naranga and to rest the feet for a minute.Read more