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- Gün 54
- 28 Şubat 2020 Cuma
- ☁️ 31 °C
- Yükseklik: 264 m
HindistanMahāmandir26°17’55” N 73°1’31” E
Pushkar —> Jodhpur Day train

Woke up around 8 and chilled in bed for a little while, there had been a lot of chill in Pushkar and I liked it, however I was definitely ready to get going again and as I was feeling much better today I could actually think about how we get out of Pushkar. We both got a shower (who knows when the next hot one will be) packed up our things and we checked out before the 11am check out time.
As we’d be on a train a lot of the day, we went to grab some breakfast, and eventually found a little cafe and got butter toast and honey for 30 rupee. It was a weird blend, but certainly gave the energy we needed to get out the hostel and get the bus to Ajmer. We walked in the heat to the bus stop with one of the guys go took us to the wedding and the bus arrived minutes after. We bought our tickets from the counter and battled our way onto the bus to get seats, after a few minutes those people who were just battling to get on the bus started to filter off to get their tickets...instead of getting tickets and then getting on the bus like a normal human being. Eventually, the bus departed and we got to Ajmer bus station. We wanted a Tuktuk and played the different drivers off one another for the best price. To minutes later we jumped in a TukTuk to the train station and waited for our train. It arrived only 20 minutes late, we boarded and watched the chaos as people tried to find their seats, it was painful watching them...they had been living in India all their lives, all the signs are in their local language and they couldn’t figure it out, whereas Tom and I managed easily. The train set off at 14:55 and we were on our way to Jodphur! On the train, the chaos never stopped with people still struggling to find their right seat and also the weird man sat in front of us taking selfies with us in the background and sending them to his friends - however, we had now become used to this here. Surprisingly, we had loads of space on this train with loads of leg room and a free seat, so we stretched our end enjoyed the ride. The last hour is where this journey got weird...we were put on FaceTime with a family, had numerous interviews about where we were from etc, the last thing we wanted. We even had a guy sit with us for about 30 mins and interrogate is about what we did, and what two generations back in our families did...clearly trying to set us up. He then pulled out a little black book and asked for our UK address. I thought on my feet and gave him a blend of both mine and Tom’s home address : 16 Esholt Crescent, Barnsley, UK, BD14 4PL. This was all made super awkward as this guy kept trying to either shake hands or high five with Tom, but each time it needed in an awkward mid air hand holding. We decided that from this point we’d just say we were married!! There were a couple of kids on the train who wanted to lay, so we played guns and shooting with them from between the seats - this was met with hysterical laughter from the kids.
Finally we arrived in Jodhpur and as the hostel was only 2km away an that was our upper limit for walking we set off. By this time it was about 8pm so we were hungry. We walked up the Main Street and found a place called Al-Haq who specialised in mutton. Although we’d been veggie for pretty much all our trip, we both fancied a bit of meat and rice. This plate arrived and it was amazing, the tastes and textures made a nice change from veg thali. We made it to our guesthouse within the old city walls and it was pretty nice with a great rooftop view of the fort perched 400ft on top of cliffs. After our long day, we decided to get some rest as we were going to explore the blue city of Jodhpur tomorrow.Okumaya devam et
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- Gün 53
- 27 Şubat 2020 Perşembe
- ⛅ 29 °C
- Yükseklik: 515 m
HindistanSāvitri Pahār26°28’50” N 74°32’40” E
Pushkar day #4

I was not feeling good, still, so I asked to go and get some dry food for me...so looked like he was having bananas and crackers for breakfast and Tom also had the same. We chilled out at the hostel for a bit. A lot of this in Pushkar so far but it felt as if it was the perfect place to do it and we both thought we were going to feel refreshed after just slowing down a bit. Desperate times called for desperate measures...I’ve never been one to take pills when I’m sick, but I took some Imodium, 2 in fact, and after a little while we went out to get Thali from the 50rupee Thali place...I ordered one this time but only wanted the rice and the chapatti so I donated the curry to Tom, much to his delight. After food, which I choked down and Tom wolfed down as his potion was now massive, we walked to the lake and chilled outside the Ghats.
We just watched the world go by...firstly we watched 2 women get completely scammed by some man giving them a blessing next to the holy lake... but they seemed to be buying it so it was fine. Secondly, an older guy was being told to take his shoes off in the Ghat area and he was not happy about it at all. We were trying to figure out where he was from, and then he said in the most German accent ever “why do I have to take my shoes off, everything is so dirty here” which seemed to really upset the men sat around who seemed to be policing the rules and also waiting for westerners to come by to scam when they started saying “if you think it is dirty then leave”. Really friendly people. Thirdly, a local man saying to a girl stroking a dog “I don’t like dogs, I kick them”....which really summed up how backwards and generally stupid so many Indian people were, especially with animals.
After all this people watching, we made our way back to the hostel for (you guessed it) some chill time. After a few hours I started to feel a bit better so we decided to venture out to the sunset spot that the hostel recommended we did for sunrise (we didn’t, oops). On the walk I began to turn bad again and dove into a grubby little hotel with only squat toilets available. Tom suggested numerous times that we turn back but I was being stubborn and wanted to carry on...I already felt bad for not managing to do a lot of thins here in Pushkar and Tom has been my carer. I insisted we continued so we did for a little while however half way up the viewpoint I was really struggling. Tom changed his approach and said that he couldn’t be arsed to continue anymore...obviously a little white lie but I took it and we turned back just as the sun set. Tom was wanting to grab some food on the way back, so I left him to it as I shuffled back feeling terrible and bloated. With the fear of the runs, I quickened my pace but when I got back and rushed to the toilet it was only gas!!! The Imodium worked a treat!! Upon Tom returning, let him know the good news and so we both got showered and watched “We’re the Millers” on the iPad and then both passed out.Okumaya devam et
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- Gün 52
- 26 Şubat 2020 Çarşamba
- ☀️ 28 °C
- Yükseklik: 491 m
HindistanPushkar26°29’6” N 74°33’59” E
Pushkar day #3

Tom woke up at around 830 and I was still asleep so Very kindly he left me to it whilst I lazed in my bed for a little while...the beds were almost too comfy to leave. After a while I got up, used the hot showers and we chilled out in the room and then on the balcony, looking into our route for Nepal and booking some bits for India too. The music in the streets weals certainly still going, in fact this morning it was directly below our hostel. It was around 13:30 before we actually left the hostel today but, you certainly need those days when you’re travelling to just rest up a bit, especially when you’re not feeling too well.
We went to the 50 rupee thali place for lunch, but again I couldn’t eat a thing so sat and watched Tom devour his meal. Tom very kindly gave me a scrap of chapati and some plain rice - making me feel like a stray dog - but this was all I could stomach. We wandered to the other side of the lake and came across a troop of big monkeys going about their business. We arrived to where the Brahma temple was - the only one in the world apparently. It was a big pink temple but no photos were allowed inside and we also had to leave our bags in a storage locker for free. It was pretty, but not as spectacular as the ones in Hampi or even on our day exploring north it Udaipur, so we left pretty quick and decided we’d go and find a bum bag to hold our things for during the Holi festivities. We looked around with some guy insisting his bag was real Diesel branded but I’m pretty sure diesel was spelt wrong. We eventually found one which would do the job and bartered it down to 300 rupees. I was still feeling pretty awful, so we headed back via the Sikh Temple where we had to wear funny little headscarves before going in. It was dead quiet and actually a beautiful temple made of white marble. We went back for some more chill time on our beautiful rooftop and we looked further into the Nepal route.
We headed back out to town for dinner and I grabbed myself another falafel wrap as I was still not too keen on curry, but it still wouldn’t fix me!! Tom grabbed yet another thali on the way back to the hostel and we just got ourselves a hot shower and an early night again - these beds were amazing!!!Okumaya devam et
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- Gün 51
- 25 Şubat 2020 Salı
- ☀️ 26 °C
- Yükseklik: 494 m
HindistanPushkar Lake26°29’18” N 74°33’16” E
Pushkar lake and Indian Wedding!

Tom has said that he woke up at 8am, and I was still asleep...the bed was so comfy and warm that he decided to try and get some more sleep as Wed been going non stop for weeks and needed to reset! He woke back up at 9 and I still wasn’t awake, this is how Tom knew I was ill...as I was always awake before him! I eventually surfaced just after 11 and found Tom chilling on the rooftop. He recommended that we go out and get some watermelon, apparently a good snack if you have diarrhoea...? So we did just that, on our way into town an old hippie Indian guy who was chilling out at the blue temple where the hippie men hung out offered Tom a drag of his joint...we didn’t have a clue what he was smoking, but certainly didn’t want to try it! We got into town and paid 100 rupees for a full watermelon, we found a spot around the lake where we weren’t being pestered by the scammer trying to “gift” us with a flower and a blessing and then demand money from us...nor were we being shouted at for carrying our shoes and we ate the entire watermelon!
We then walked around the lake anti-clockwise, past numerous people bathing in the holy lake and were constantly being hassled for carrying our shoes. We chilled out at our favourite spot, just outside one of the Ghats on the steps and took in the surroundings whilst talking about random things including the purposes of fizzy water...why would you drink fizzy water!? We were obviously going crazy or running out of things to talk about. We made our way back to the hostel for some more chill out time before we made our way to the sunset viewpoint. We had agreed that we would meet the German guy (from Konstanz) from our hostel, Joel at the top of the viewpoint as he was going to get food first. We made our way up the tracks, walking past a woman who was suspiciously cleaning something up on one of the rocks...we come to the conclusion she had taken a shit at the side of the tracks and was now desperately trying to clean it up.
We continued and before long we got to the top of the viewpoint, which was a temple and of course you weren’t allowed shoes inside...however it looked like an awful temple it was really the view you come here for...we decided to keep our shoes on and just perch on a nearby rock to enjoy the sunset. We were joined by Joel, we chatted and enjoyed a nice sunset. Before it got dark we made our way into the town where George and I grabbed a famous Pushkar falafel from lafa falafel, the spot in Pushkar where 3 falafel stores sit adjacent to one another and customers enjoy their food on-street-seating. It was pretty good, nothing on the ones we had in the Philippines though! We thought we’d make our way back to the hostel for a chilled night.....
Upon arriving back at the hostel the guy behind the check-in desk said to Joel he had good and bad news. The bad news was that his washing wasn’t going to be done in time for his checkout because the man who does the laundry is getting married today. However the good news was that by means of an apology he was invited to his wedding. Seems like a pretty good apology to us! He proceeded to say the three of us were invited and even showed us the very official invitation card he had received. Tom was 100% up for it as he’s always wanted to attend an Indian wedding and even more so here in India. It took some convincing for me to be up for it with my current stomach situation but eventually I agreed to join.
We changed into some jeans, still with my scruffy jumper on and got into the party TukTuk that was waiting for us outside the hostel. The wedding was in Ajmer, the town that we arrived into on the train and the “15 minute drive” turned into a 45 minute drive, hanging onto the back of the TukTuk as the driver (who was high) drove far too quickly, meandering through traffic and not slowing down for speed bumps. However, we got to talk to the guys who were working at the hostel, Amit and Micky and they were both really nice guys! Eventually we arrived at the venue, after checking it was the right wedding as so many weddings were taking place today. The entrance was very grand and I could feel 1,000 eyes looking at us as we entered the venue. However, everyone was warm and welcoming to us. Handshake and handshake and selfie after selfie we made our way round the wedding, enjoying the fantastic food that was on offer. I had a paneer curry, vegetable kofta curry, biriyani with freshly made chipatis and naan breads. As I was eating the delicious food, taking in my surroundings it hit me that it was a much more sophisticated than I was expecting. People were stood around chatting and enjoying their food, it felt more like a get together, not a wedding. After finishing the food I dumped my plate into one of the many huge buckets that had been put out to collect cutlery and we made our way over to meet the bride and the groom. I had spoken to Micky on the way and he told me that this was an arranged marriage by their parents, who also paid for this occasion...on average about 1 million Indian rupees, or £10,000 for a wedding of this scale. We waited in a queue to meet the bride and groom, got a picture with them, said our congratulations, got a sweet as hell coffee (Tom got 3 for him and had mine too!) and were back in the TukTuk on our way back to the hostel. The journey back was equally rough but we got back at around 11:30, where we made my way straight to bed having ticked off one more thing from the bucket list.Okumaya devam et
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- Gün 50
- 24 Şubat 2020 Pazartesi
- ☀️ 24 °C
- Yükseklik: 491 m
HindistanPushkar26°29’6” N 74°33’59” E
Pushkar and the infamous Delhi Belly

I didn’t get much sleep last night, it was very cold and I was unprepared for that and the India guys who had the beds around us were (of course) loud and obnoxious throughout the night. However, the train got to Ajmer 35 minutes early (without any notification). It was the classic case of get off then figure it out. We’d heard about a bus to Pushkar but had no idea where it went from. With various Tuktuk drivers offering us lifts costing the equivalent of two nights’ accommodation, we decided to walk the 2km to the bus station - quite nice after being cooped up on the train for 6 hours. We got to the bus station and asked where the bus to Pushkar was, one person told us it was the one leaving right now but we didn’t trust it so I went to the station master and asked...bus 22 it was then. We got on and waited for a driver to turn up. Meanwhile we tried to listen in on conversations to confirm of this was to Pushkar. After I demolished half my Oreos which I hadn’t eaten as I felt awful the previous night, we were on our way.
The bus journey was only 14km and only cost us the equivalent of 16pence each and it seemed to stop for people wherever they wanted which was perfect as our hostel was a little walk from the Pushkar bus station. I got up and motioned to the conductor that we wanted to get off, after a while she blew her whistle and we were dropped just 500m from the hostel...result! We got there, groggy and in desperate need of sleep and as it was only 07:30 and check in was at 13:00 we headed to the rooftop in search of a makeshift bed for a few hours. In truth, we both slept until midday and we only woke because the sun started to bear down on us! We got up, checked in and then set out to have a look at Pushkar. I was still feeling pretty terrible with very frequent trips to the toilet, so we packed the loo roll just in case - the joys of India. On the way to town was a thali place we’d been recommended, only 50 rupees. Tom grabbed one and I just had our bottle of water. It was a massive thali, and obviously amazing value. I grabbed some bananas for the walk round town and we made our way to Pushkar Lake, or the holy lake.
Pushkar is a prominent pilgrimage town where devout Hindus should visit at least once in their lifetime. We were both pleasantly surprised by this place, with a population of only 21,000 it was by far the smallest place we’d been in India, and it was refreshingly quiet and lacked the constant hassling we got in Mumbai and Udaipur. We chilled round the lake, which is a strict no shoes or socks zone - although cows can walk around all day and shit where they like. The town of Pushkar curls around the holy lake, which was said to have appeared when Brahma dropped a lotus flower...not sure if we believed that but it was pretty nonetheless. We found a shaded spot where there were a few pool with kids playing and the locals having their daily rituals. We had a few people come up to us and try some sort of scam where they give you a petal and then ask for money, and we also had a guy who started saying over and over “I am Indian” and then he stood right in front of me and blocked my view. Even though the town was clean for India, we still watched in awe as people came down to the lake, had a bath and then filled up their water bottles for later. From where we were sat we could see that the water wasn’t clear...these guys must have stomachs of steel!! After a while we went for a little walk and checked out some of the market street and a few other places we’d been recommended including a pizzeria and a falafel place. After seeing the pizza place, we’d decided there and then that we’d treat ourselves tonight and go for it! As we were both up for taking it easy, we headed back to the hostel as we knew they had hot water showers - a rarity in all of India it seems.
On the way back the sudden urge to go to the toilet hit me in the worst way...I took a gamble on a fart and realised I needed to get to a western toilet in the next two minutes or I’d have to resort to the street! I grabbed the bag off Tom, which had to loo roll in, and ran back to the hostel and made it just in time. We showered and watched the sunset from our roof terrace and then headed back into town for our first western meal since leaving home. The pizza place was a little haven from the craziness of India...no roadside eating tonight, it was a beautiful courtyard with mellow music and a cool buzz about it. We ordered a good old margarita and a pepper onion pizza. We were even more excited when the table next to us had a pizza arrive...it looked bloody good. Ours arrived and we halved both to make two 50:50 pizzas and we savoured every mouthful...not much more can be said about this except that we splashed out and it only cost £3 each! Being very satisfied, we ambled back to the hostel, me stepping in a huge cow poo on the way back, chilled on the rooftop listening to music and writing the blog before hitting the extremely comfy beds for a well deserved rest, provided the Indian wedding happening nearby didn’t keep us up.Okumaya devam et
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- Gün 49
- 23 Şubat 2020 Pazar
- ☀️ 24 °C
- Yükseklik: 573 m
HindistanGadarwās24°34’2” N 73°41’59” E
Scooter day from Udaipur

I woke up just after 8 and made our way up to the roof terrace for our breakfast. We were the only ones there again, just like our first morning, so naturally we were complete pigs and ate most of the food. Oops! (I was going to miss that jam). After brekkie we got all our stuff together, dumped our bags in the common area and checked out as we were leaving for Pushkar on a night train tonight. We then waited in the reception area for our scooter that we had arranged yesterday, of course it was still late despite the 16 hour notice...
Eventually, the scooter turned up. It was an awful, grey bike that looked like it was falling apart and had been spray painted really badly to make it look newer than it was. When we started droving it actually felt worse than it looked...the bracket that was screwed onto the front of the bike made it sound like a clattery old van each time we went over a speed bump or hole in the road. The lights didn’t work, which was eventful through a dark tunnel on a motorway and the indicators made the loudest beep ever. The driving experience here was much more chaotic than it was in Goa, firstly two guys wanted to race us numerous times, then bikes would drive beside us wanting conversations with us....eventually we made it to Eklingji temple, a 24km drive from our hostel. It was hidden away in a busy town, which was weird considering we had hardly passed anybody on our way here. We queued up outside for quite some time, with no shoes or socks but eventually we got inside, following the queue all the way round, we were quite confused exactly to what the people were actually praying to. It was a really nice temple and was very detailed, but no pictures were allowed here. We made our way back to our bike, after being rushed to put our shoes back on by two girls...and then made our way to Sahastra Bahu temples, which was an awesome temple, incredibly intricate and well preserved. There were a group of local people chilling outside the temple playing western music, but in true Indian fashion would skip each song after about 20 seconds... we actually enjoyed the Western music for a little while whilst exploring the temple. Whilst in the temple we met a group of Aussies who were in India for their sons wedding in a dry state of India and were telling us of the festivities that followed their wedding.
Back on our moped we made our way to a pin Tom had found on maps.me for a “mountain viewpoint”, having no clue what it actually looked like we thought we’d check it out anyway. On the journey we drove through the middle of nowhere, passing by really rural villages. It felt very Middle Eastern, with dry landscape and very square buildings, almost what I imagined Afghanistan to look like. When we got to the viewpoint we enjoyed the hazy view of the mountainous landscape and watched an older guy herding his goats and generally enjoyed the peace and quiet - as you don’t come across that in India too often. After enjoying the view we drove to Lake Badi, after a bumpy journey we got to a parking area where we left our bike for 20 rupee to go and check out a nice viewpoint overlooking the reservoir. On the walk back to our bike we of course had to have our picture taken with a few Indian guys and then we were going to make our way to The Monsoon palace which could be seen from our hostels roof terrace.
However, on the drive the sound of the engine changed and increased in volume by about 100%, we stopped to check out what had happened...the exhaust had fallen off. We attempted to carry on but it was scraping on the floor, so instead of causing further damage to an already broken bike we thought we’d better come up with a solution. We ripped the string out from the seat cover and used this to hold up the exhaust so it wouldn’t scrape along the ground as we drove. It was however, still the loudest bike the whole of India but at least we could move however with not much power anymore. We thought we’d go straight back to the hostel and talk to the hostel to sort out getting some money back for this bike, as it really was rubbish. On the way back to Udaipur we couldn’t pick up much speed and the moped was absolutely screeching...to make things even worse there were lots of diversions around Udaipur meaning we had to meander through the backstreets, through the chaotic traffic to get back to our hostel. We got back to the hostel and we were both a little pissed off. We spoke firstly with the front of house at the hostel who called the man who’s bike it was... after about half hour he turned up. He was an absolute crook this guy, accusing us of breaking his bike... after a little while we managed to get the message across to both him and the guys at the hostel that it was nothing to do with us but instead how this guy had looked after his bike over the years and how it was unacceptable and to our surprise we managed to get a full refund...result! It did help that I had the key to the bike held ransom.
After that drama we went to get Thali from “the food corner” our favourite local place in Udaipur. As we were sat down I suddenly announced that I needed an emergency toilet trip...up I got and ran out of the restaurant leaving Tom to order our Thali’s and an extra curry and rice to share. I had to go all the way to the rooftop of the hostel as we’d checked out already and returned after perhaps 5 minutes, with some shitty (literally) news, I had the shits. Finally, it had got to one of us. Thankfully, it didn’t affect my appetite though and the mountain of food arrived and we both devoured it, and it was delicious, we were going to miss this place! We said our goodbyes to the owner of the restaurant and went back to the hostel to chill out until in the common room, where Tom FaceTimed home and I just began to feel awful getting closer and closer to a foetal position on the floor. At about 9:45pm we left the hostel and got a TukTuk to the train station. We had been fighting to get it for 80 rupees but finally settled on 100...the journey was awful, he actually crashed into a moped (and sped off) and then almost skidded into a car so when we arrived at the train station and he expected 100 rupees. Is I felt like shit I explained pretty brutally that this was the worst tutkuk journey of my life and I only have him 80 rupees as he didn’t deserve the full fare...safe to say he was fuming!
We found our platform and there was a train waiting there, we asked an official if this was our train to Ajmer, she said yes, good job we checked with two guys on the train as it was actually going to Jaipur... ours was the next train coming through. We waited on the platform and once again I got the sudden need to go to the toilet...oh no, in the train station!! But surprisingly the toilet was relatively clean and western I informed Tom upon my return, demanding the hand sanitiser still.
At around 11pm the train pulled into the station, we got on our carriage in complete darkness and found our beds. Tom was 35, bottom and I was 36 top. We got straight into our bunks, tried to get comfy and get some sleep before arriving in Ajmer.Okumaya devam et
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- Gün 48
- 22 Şubat 2020 Cumartesi
- ☀️ 25 °C
- Yükseklik: 572 m
HindistanLake Pichola24°36’4” N 73°41’29” E
Exlploring Udaipur on foot

We woke up at 8am, with the Indians in our room having a conversation at volume 100%, because they can’t do anything quietly. Up on the rooftop for 8:15 to wait for our free hostel breakfast. However, unlike yesterday we were not the only ones on the rooftop today so had to eat a normal amount today. We went for a walk to find some mopeds to rent today, however, we were unsuccessful and apparently all the mopeds were rented today...we tried our hostel and they said the same thing. We quickly moved around our plans for today, booked a moped for tomorrow through the hostel and then set off for Lake Sagar, about 2km away. After walking for about 2 minutes, Tom had placed his foot foot into the largest and wettest cow poo ever... today wasn’t going our way. After a little while we got to the lake, it was nice and much more local than Lake Pichola. We chilled out at a park near the water for a little while and then decided to walk a bit further to a nicer park. On the way we saw a Kayak competition taking place so we sat and cheered for a random team and then continued.
We arrived at Saheliyon-Ki-Bari and when we realised you had to pay in we walked to a nearby park built onto a roundabout. There was a nice pond in the middle where you could rent out pedalos. We chilled here for a little while looking into Nepal, and whether we would need to get additional insurance or not...it was looking like it could cost us up to £600 each to get insured!! After an hour or two chilling on the grass we made our way back to Udaipur City Palace to check out the outside areas surrounding the place that you had to buy a separate ticket for. We chilled out here on the grass where we eventually got an answer about our travel insurance after talking directly with our insurance company, we didn’t need additional insurance to trek around Nepal!! This actually made us very happy and made me feel like we’d saved so much money! With a spring in our step we made our way back to the hostel rooftop where we watched sunset and then went for a dinner Thali with the Germans that we had met. The food was great again! Back to hostel, chilled out some more and then went to bed.Okumaya devam et
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- Gün 47
- 21 Şubat 2020 Cuma
- ☀️ 27 °C
- Yükseklik: 617 m
HindistanCity Palace, Udaipur24°34’35” N 73°41’1” E
Udaipur Shiva Festival

We were both awake by 8am and made our way up to the roof terrace to wait for our free breakfast. We were a little early but didn’t mind as we both really liked the view from the terrace. When breakfast came we kept eating more and more, the poor guy who worked at the hostel had to keep bringing more...we had 2 boiled eggs, 4 curry toasties and about half a loaf of bread worth of jam on toast (Jammie dodger jam). Very satisfied and now fuelled for the day we left our hostel and made our way across the bridge, it was a gorgeous day, clear blue skies and a nice warm temperature.
Today was the Hindu festival of Shivaratri, a festival dedicated to the worship of Lord Shiva. We walked through the colourful streets and our first stop of the day was Jagdish temple, a large Hindu temple raised on a tall terrace that you had to climb up to via very steep stairs, plastered with beggars and people trying to sell us tat. Upon entering the temple there was a nice atmosphere, obviously fuelled by today’s festivities. There were people sat around a shrine in the centre of the temple singing and playing instruments, which we watched for a little while before walking round the rest of the old temple. Back onto the streets we then made our way over to the City Palace, however before we got there we were blocked by a large group of Hindu people dancing and singing in the street to incredibly loud music. We watched as they had their party and then went to look at getting tickets for the city palace. It was 300 rupees which we thought was quite a lot, but it was one of the main things to do here so we went for it. Inside the palace was quite busy, with it being the festival today. There were loads of Indians, so we sat and let the majority of them feed through before we started our walk round. The palace was really well kept, and pretty interesting as each reigning Maharaja had added bits onto it over a period of 400 years so each bit was different. We were enjoying it as the palace was nice and cool with amazing views out over Pichola Lake and the rest of Udaipur. However, we quickly became annoyed at pretty much everyone else in the palace as all they seemed to want was a picture of themselves in front of some artefact, without even looking at it or taking it in. We were ushered out the way numerous times for one of these photo shoots which we felt was a bit silly...but Indians love a picture of themselves.
We spend a good three or four hours at the palace before we left to check out a viewpoint we’d seen on maps.me. It was a pretty easy walk to the bottom of it and not too hot, so we started to climb. There was a cable car you could take up, but you couldn’t get to this viewpoint. On the way up we saw a. Abandoned pink tower which had a little rooftop, so we went off the path and clambered up the hillside to get to it. Up three flights of stairs and to the roof and we were treated to an amazing view of the lakes, palace, and temples of Udaipur. After a bit, we climbed even higher up try hill to get the sunset view.m and found these two pagoda things which seemed to have the best view of the city. We were up here quite early for the sunset, but we got some really nice pictures and just watched the scenery change as the sun went down. It was absolutely gorgeous, and as it got darker the city palace and other buildings started to get lit up.
After soaking it all up, we made our way down (via the top of the pink tower again) and then began the walk back to the hostel. On the way back, this man on a bike pulled up and showed us a WhatsApp text, it had words like ‘bull’ and ‘guys’ and ‘massage’ in it at a quick glance. We walked on, but I turned to Tom and insisted that was some sort of sexual offering. He wasn’t so sure, but I was certain. Out of curiosity, we slowed down a bit and sure enough the man stopped next to us again. We asked him what he wanted and he plainly responded saying “I want sex, you have sex with my wife”. We were speechless and couldn’t actually believe what he said. He then clarified and said that he and his wife were swingers...we had to politely decline his offer but wished him luck. After this, we were really keen for food, so stopped at a place which looked busy, always a good sign, and we decided we’d get a mixture of dishes after we’d had thali for what felt like weeks. We got vegetable pakora, this guys own veg biriyani and a peanut masala, the latter of which arrived with a flame coming out of it! All the food was amazing and safe to say we gobbled it all up.
As it was the Shiva Festival today in Udaipur there was a load of people now out on the streets and we got offered this creamy/green drink. This western guy said to me that it wasn’t strong, so we both took a cup. When we drank it we couldn’t even taste any alcohol, so it must have been really weak. It wasn’t the nicest of drinks, so Tom only had a little bit, whilst I had the whole thing as we were in front of the guys who gave it to us and I didn’t want to seem rude. We walked up the street so Tom could dump his in the bin, as two kids followed us desperate for the drink but Tom refused to give it to them. We made it back to the hostel finally and went to the rooftop to chill out for a bit. Up there we met an English girl and a Finnish guy and we were all just chatting about generic travel stuff. It was at this point I started to feel a bit weird in my stomach and I immediately thought the drink had poisoned me. However, I then overheard the Finnish guy say that the drink the locals give out on the street is a ‘special lassi’. In other words it’s a drink laced with marijuana. I hadn’t been poisoned, I’d got accidentally high. Tom has looked over to me and I was in fits of giggles at absolutely nothing at all...at least I was happy high and not depressed. Everything made me laugh, even the name of the state we were in ‘Rajasthan’ and even more so the people called ‘Rajasthani’s’ nearly had me on the floor. This went on for a while, and even Tom started to just laugh, more so at the state I was in. We went downstairs as I had some chocolate biscuits, so we demolished them and then decided we’d go on a midnight hunt for Oreos. We went down to the main door, and it was shut, but couldn’t be locked as you can’t lock people in or out of a hostel. We spent about 5 minutes pushing and pulling, looking for a lever, trying to twist bolts and pulling chains that were on this door but for the life of us we couldn’t figure it out! We had to find and ask the hostel manager how you open the door and he just said ‘slide them’...actually so simple. We got our Oreos smashed them and then duly went to bed. It had been a long and eventful day, but a fun evening.Okumaya devam et
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- Gün 46
- 20 Şubat 2020 Perşembe
- ☀️ 29 °C
- Yükseklik: 584 m
HindistanKotra Nadi24°34’56” N 73°40’51” E
Exploring Udaipur City

I woke up at around 8am with 40km still to go until Udaipur. I had a really good nights sleep! I opened the curtain watching the world go by and then put a film on until the bus conductor loudly started screaming “Udaipur, Udaipur” with a lot of other incomprehensible words. We got off the bus where we got an Ola to take us to our hostel for only 27 rupees thanks to my online discount. The hostel was right in the middle of Udaipur, on the island connected by bridges on Pichola lake.
We found our hostel, Whereabout Hostel, checked in and then chilled out on their roof terrace which had an awesome view of Pichola lake. We read through some of the Lonely Planet books which were there to get a better sense of what what here in Udaipur as we hadn’t done much research about here. After a little while our room was ready for us to check in, so we dumped our bags and then went to grab some lunch at a place called “Queen Cafe” that we had read about in Lonely Planet book. This place was tiny, and run by these two old people and their daughter Meera who also did a cooking school. As it turned out, Meera also did the cooking for the cafe and soon after ordering she brought us two biriyani. It was a bit odd as she just sat there and watched us eat the food, clearly doing the hard sell on her cooking school. After the food, she even insisted on taking us to her kitchen to show us where we’d cook. We were up for the idea, but it was so expensive so we would consider it long and hard.
We walked around the old part of the town over the little bridges which connected little islands and lakes and we were quite surprised at how pretty it was here after coming from Mumbai. Even though we’d had some good sleep on the bus, we were still quite tired, so we went to the hostel rooftop and had a little planning session for Udaipur and the next few places we were going. We knew of this view point which overlooked the Palace Island Hotel to watch the sun go down. This was a place which had been a main filming point in James Bond Octopussy and it was really nice and quite grand.
By this point we were quite hungry, and looked around a few different parts of town but they were all quite expensive. So we went back to near our hostel and got a Thali for 120 rupees. We were sold, and it was all fresh too, so we sat down and almost immediately there was a power-cut. Luckily the guy doing our cooking was creating enough light with the occasion flame up of his pan, so it didn’t delay our food. The power came back on and we were served an enormous thali which was delicious. We went back to the rooftop and tried to watch Slumdog Millionaire on the iPad, but there was no subtitles and half of it was in Hindi...oh well, so we just headed to bed for a good sleep.Okumaya devam et
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- Gün 45
- 19 Şubat 2020 Çarşamba
- ☀️ 31 °C
- Yükseklik: 16 m
HindistanSanta Cruz19°4’58” N 72°50’47” E
Mumbai plan day and night bus to Udaipur

Today we were in no rush at all. We’d seen what we wanted to see in Mumbai, so we had a big fat lie in and a leisurely get up and warm shower. Today was our last day in Mumbai so we needed to check out by 10:30, so we packed up our stuff and chilled in the common area for a little while. We dedicated some time this morning/afternoon to planning what we would do for the next few weeks as well as book flights into Nepal. We spent a few hours researching and adding things to the plan before we both got hungry and went back to our trusty street food man for Chinese Bhel for the last time.
Tonight we were getting the bus to Udaipur, as our waiting list tickets for the train hadn’t come through. Rather than suffer a 17 hour journey on a train in general class again, we’d booked a luxury bus with our own TVs, films and all the trimmings. It would take just as long as the train, but hopefully we’d get some decent sleep. We went out to get snacks for the bus, the standard crisps, biscuits and bananas before going back to the hostel to chill out before it was time to grab an Ola (Indian Uber) to the pickup spot. The pickup location on the RedBus app was just at the side of the motorway, so we waited for a little while keeping track of the buses location...it was on its way to us, just very slowly. Eventually the bus pulled up, it was a different model bus to what it said online so we wanted to check that it was going to Udaipur, the man grunted at us and ushered us on. We found our beds and set up camp for the night. I must admit, it was certainly worth spending a little bit more money for a bit of comfort on these long journeys.
After watching Mission Impossible Fallout (great film!) the bus stopped in a random location to refuel and where we could try and get some proper food as we were only had snack...we had tried to get something a few times before but there was just crisps and junk! This time was equally unsuccessful, however even more so as the bus loudly sounded its horn and began to drive off...without us! Tom was faster than me to react and sprinted to the bus and started banging the door until he stopped to let us on. We were not happy at the driver at all and I had a go at him saying that they need to communicate better with their passengers, in response he just grunted at me... back to bed then.
A little while later we stopped at a slightly more official looking place that were actually selling proper food. We both got 2 samosas, devoured them and then a friendly Indian guy asked us if we wanted to try his crisps...we both tried a few and they were nice, and then the guy decided that he was going to give the entire packet to us, what a gent! We got back on the bus and I passed out for the night in the extremely comfy beds.Okumaya devam et
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- Gün 44
- 18 Şubat 2020 Salı
- ☀️ 32 °C
- Yükseklik: 16 m
HindistanMāhīm River19°2’52” N 72°51’31” E
Mumbai Dharavi Slum

We woke up nice and early and set off to get to Bandra junction train station to catch a train to Mahim junction where we would meet our tour guide for todays tour of Dharavi Slum, one of the largest slums in the world. We got to Bandra and got on any train heading in the direction of Mahim, which we found out as wrong as we sped past Mahim junction without stopping...we got out at a random train station and an Indian commuter decided to take us under his wing and ensure we got on the correct train to Mahim, what a nice guy! He even advised us to wear our backpack on our front to avoid the notorious pickpockets on the Mumbai inner city trains. We eventually got to Mahim and took a seat in Cafe Coffee Day, the exact meeting point for our tour.
At around 9:45, Yahya arrived outside with three Irish girls, we went out to meet them to start our tour. Yahya worked for a company called ‘The Local Tours’, a company that we had been recommended by Jen, who Tom used to work with. It is a very socially aware company and they recruit university students that live in Dharavi to run the tours as a means of earning money to pay for their tuition fees, so it was a nice company to do it with. Yahya explained to us all that Dharavi was not a sad place to live, in fact a very desirable place to live for people in India. Over 1 million people called Dhiravi home and it has a booming economy, with a GDP of over $1 billion per annum with textiles, leather and recycling industries being its biggest income. Yahya explained how when Dharavi was founded, from dried up marsh land, people from all over India rushed to buy the land due to its central location in Mumbai, and now the land is very expensive at over a quarter of a million rupees per square meter. We walked round the streets and many alleyways of Dharavi and saw first hand each of the major industries at work and also where people were living and it was right what Yahya was saying, people were more than happy living here, in fact they loved living here. We got an awesome lunch in Yahya’s favourite place and then finished the tour near to a barber shop, so ever the opportune, Tom and I decided to get our hair cut, 80 rupees for a haircut!
The man who would be doing the haircut had bright orange hair with matching beard, so hopefully he was better than whoever does his hair! We played rock, paper, scissors to determine who would go first....for the first time in ages, Tom won, so I was up! I’m not going to lie about 2 minutes in it looked like he had absolutely butchered my hair, but he turned it around eventually and he actually gave me a good cut! After my haircut was finished the man decided to give me a very thorough/violent face wash, involving a pink machine that resembles a polishing machine....it was not pleasant and he was pummelling my cheekbones and nose with this vibrating device. It was then Tom’s turn and that is when we found out he could only really do one style, as we both got practically identical haircuts. Tom then endured the same torturous face wash machine, and tried to pay up....however he was trying to double the cost saying that the face wash (that we didn’t ask for) was additional. Paying no more than the agreed price, we left Dharavi after having a great morning.
We made our way back to Mahim junction and got a train to Charni road where we walked to Chowpatty beach. A little bit of a disappointment if I’m honest...it wasn’t exactly the nicest beach but I wasn’t really expecting much in the centre of Mumbai. We continued walking along the beach to find the hanging gardens that Tom had read about...again a little bit of a disappointment too. However, it was the highest point in Mumbai, hence the name “hanging gardens”, due to its location there was a observation deck nearby that we went up to get a view over crazy Mumbai - this was pretty nice, and free too! We then walked back through Mumbai traffic to a nearby train station, stopping off for a bit of air con in H&M and got a train back to Bandra where we got our now standard order of Chinese Bhel, this time with noodles on top for not additional charge...we were becoming locals here.
After this long hot day, we went back to the hostel for some chill and then back to the same place for more Chinese Bhel, and then we went over the road for an Orea Shake, which was unreal! With the taste of chocolate in our mouths, we then made a desperate trip to the shop for biscuits then back to the hostel for the night.Okumaya devam et
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- Gün 43
- 17 Şubat 2020 Pazartesi
- ☀️ 30 °C
- Yükseklik: Deniz seviyesi
HindistanGateway of India, Colaba, Mumbai18°55’19” N 72°50’4” E
Night Train and Mumbai City

We went from a very uncomfortable 4 people on our bench to an unbearable 5...by 1am we had said goodbye to any possibility that we would get any sleep tonight. The guys who got on at the station had taken it upon themselves to start moving everyone’s luggage around from the racks to make space for people up there...however they hadn’t clocked where the luggage would go instead. They tried to move mine and Toms’ bags but I told them absolutely not and that I wanted eyes on them all night. They tried a couple more times before giving up as they realised that we were serious about them not touching our stuff. To our amazement, they all got out bits of cardboard and plastic sheeting and laid it out on the floor...these were their beds!! One of the group asked me to move my feet, bearing in mind they were in the aisle as there were 10 other pairs of legs and feet where mine could have been I asked him ‘where would you like me to put them?’ Confused, he tapped my legs and feet for me to move them. Again I asked the same question and his mate translated...I’d had enough with them completely. He eventually gave up probably realising that even white peoples’ legs weren’t detachable.
We got absolutely no sleep and he prospect of the next 7 hours on this train in this position was haunting. However, the time did tick by and we just battled on, already saying that we’d never do this again or make the same mistakes with the tickets. We were about an hour from Mumbai when a lot of the passengers got off, it was at this point we saw their suitcases...they were big 10 litre paint tubs filled with clothes and all sorts of things. At the stop before we got off, some cross dressing men got on and started clapping and hassling people for money...it was really weird. It was almost as if they were blessing people and getting money for it, but it was just a money making thing. We eventually got off the train at Mumbai LTT station and were being hounded by the various taxi or tuktuk drivers, all of whom were trying to guess where we were going...a pointless exercise. I went over to the prepaid Tuktuk counter and said where we wanted to go, it was done via google maps so I went round and put it in the computer. The guy then clicked on the longest route possible - I told him to choose the short one as it was way cheaper (6km rather that 10km)! He reluctantly did so and we got to our hostel in the Bandra part of Mumbai for 122 rupees. We were zonked and felt jet-lagged and just passed out on the sofa at the hostel as we couldn’t check in just yet. When we got ourselves sorted and check in we had a little nap before we got into seeing Mumbai.
We walked to Bandra station, stopping off to get noodles for 30 rupees at a very local, busy store. Shocked by litter on the journey. Didn’t want to buy ticket due to the queue, so we just hopped on a train heading south and hoped it went to Churchgate Junction. The train was boiling hot and at each stop it was a massive rush to get either on or off by the locals. Eventually we got to downtown Mumbai and began walking, first the post office, then the main train terminal and then the India Gate and Taj Palace Hotel, all of which had been built whilst India was under British rule and they were all the nicest buildings we’d seen so far in India. After the bad night we’d had and the hot weather in Mumbai, we both mutually decided to dive into a McDonald’s and get an ice cream for just 20rupees each. It felt like being back at home somewhere, being able to be sat down without vendors hassling you whilst you ate and enjoyed some food in air-con!
Soon enough though, we were back on the streets and walking back towards the station to get back to Bandra. After a hectic walk back through the markets, we made it back to the hostel and had a hot shower - our first hot shower since Hatton in Sri Lanka! We cleaned up and went back to the lunch place and grabbed some more street food and just chilled out for the rest of the evening coming up with the plan for tomorrow. We’d been recommended to do the Dharavi Slum tour, so Tom organised this and we got an early night.Okumaya devam et
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- Gün 42
- 16 Şubat 2020 Pazar
- ☀️ 30 °C
- Yükseklik: 18 m
HindistanKherwadi19°3’52” N 72°50’59” E
South Goa to Mumbai

We both enjoyed a lie in this morning, enjoying these really comfortable beds as we knew the following night we would spend on a night train. We were out of bed at 9am, the latest wake up time on our trip so far and made our way over to Palolem beach, a 10 minute walk from our hostel. The beach was huge, but quite crowded so we were both pretty happy that we decided to base ourselves in Patnem instead. We walked half-way along the beach and grabbed some veg noodles at a food vendor in a car park just off the beach for 80 rupees and then grabbed a 5L bottle of water to fuel us for the morning. We continued along Palolem beach reaching the island at the end that you could read at low tide, however the tide had already started to come in when we got there so we gave it a miss and decided to actually just head back to Patnem and enjoy our last beach day for a while there.
Back at Patnem we enjoyed the water, the sunshine and the peace for a little while (even though it was scorching hot) before I looked at our tickets for the upcoming train. I woke Tom from his doze to tell him the tickets for our trains tonight were actually waiting list tickets not actual tickets for the train. We’d not been told about any of this as we’d paid for the tickets a couple of days earlier. We were in a Pool Quota waiting list, and bottom of the pile for that. We did some googling and discovered we wouldn’t have beds on this 11 hour overnight train to Mumbai. This made us both so frustrated at how the Indian rail system works and how anybody actually gets anywhere! We decided that we’d go to the train station in Cancona early to see what we could do. Of course we still had time to have our favourite Thali from the Nepalese restaurant, so we devoured it for the last time and went to get ready at the hostel. We’d asked the guy earlier in the day if we could grab a quick shower before the train, but it was a different person manning the hostel this afternoon and he didn’t like the idea of it! This day was going from bad to worse! We eventually just decided to get a shower as the hostel was empty, and then set off on the walk to the train station via the ATM for some much needed cash. I only had 30 pence on me and Tom only had about £2...not quite enough to get us to Mumbai.
When we got to the station, there was a crazy guy there, either drunk or drugged up, causing trouble for everyone. The station master was armed with a big wooden bat if he started to kick off more...luckily the police were called and he was taken away. This left the station master to be barraged with questions by me about what all the different codes on tickets meant. Eventually it made sense (Indian sense) and we’d be refunded for the waiting list ticket but we’d have to buy a general class ticket if we still wanted to get to Mumbai tonight. We took a brave pill and got them , only £2.50 each, and awaited the arrival of the train, getting some snacks in the meantime. It hit 20:30 and we went up the platform where we’d been told the general carriages were and we both jumped on before the train had stopped to try and beat some of the locals on so we’d get a seat. It was immediately uncomfortable. Hard benches with a tiny amount of padding, racks above to store luggage where people were sat and very little air. We went for about an hour or so and stopped at some random station where they were selling chapattis and curry through the window of the train, so we grabbed one to share and it was actually pretty good. Once finished we noticed that other who had the same as us didn’t have the little bag or plate they were given. I went on the hunt for a bin but found none - a fellow passenger then motioned for us to just throw it out the window - something that I couldn’t imagine doing, but obviously normal for these guys...we just held onto it for a bin later.
About another hour later and we’d both tried to get some sleep with no luck, but at least we had some of our own space to move about and get comfy. This is when the whole night took a turn...we got to a station just before midnight and what felt like half the Indian population got into our carriage....we were in for a long night.Okumaya devam et
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- Gün 41
- 15 Şubat 2020 Cumartesi
- ☀️ 32 °C
- Yükseklik: 7 m
HindistanCuguyguy15°6’14” N 73°55’31” E
Exploring South Goa by bike

We woke up after having an amazing sleep in these beds, got ready and asked the owner of the hostel to arrange our mopeds for the day. He led us to a restaurant not far from the hostel where a man was waiting outside stood next to an old moped that looked like it was falling apart....I’m guessing that’s why we got it for 300 instead of 400 as the guy next door was trying to charge us. I put the helmet on (that had a hole in it and half a visor) and Tom got on the back and we drove off...where we soon realised that the speedometer or fuel gauge did not work either! It took me a little while to get used to driving the moped after driving a Tuktuk for a month but I got used to it pretty quickly.
We drove to Cabo de Rama, an old Portuguese fort 24km from our hostel. We arrived and there was a wedding or funeral taking place so we didn’t see the church but we climbed the old walls of the fort which weren’t very well maintained but pretty cool. We sat on the walls enjoying the coastal view and we saw a beach in the distance that looked really nice, so decided to check that out next. So we found the beach on the map, jumped back on our moped and made our way in that direction. We had to drive across really rough terrain to get to the “parking area” where we dumped our bike to walk to the short trail down to the beach. At the top of the trail you could see down onto the beach and it was glorious! Possibly one of the nicest beaches I had ever seen. Gorgeous white sand, clear blue water, surrounded by palm trees and best thing being there were no people there! We walked down and enjoyed this little bit of paradise for a while, and I mean it was paradise.
1 o’clock came around very quickly. We had enjoyed this beach for a few hours now and as much as we didn’t want to leave we also wanted to check out some other places. So we got back on our moped and drove to Agonda beach where we ate lunch at a cute little restaurant, Tom had the veg noodles and I had the veg rice. We then went for a stroll along Agonda beach, a nice beach but pretty busy comped to the beach this morning. We dumped our stuff on the beach and enjoyed the beautiful water for a while, we even tested each other to see how long we could hold our breath underwater... the answer is roughly over a minute! Then we decided to check out another beach called Butterfly beach, however the roads we awful and we were running out of time before sunset so we decided to skip Butterfly beach and head to Talpona beach, about a 16km drive... we got there and again played some stupid games in the sea, we even had a running race on the beach, with an audience of course (as you couldn’t do anything in India without an audience). We played around in the water whilst the sun was setting and I tried to get a silly picture of Tom jumping out the water with the sunset in the background....he jumped up and as he was midair the wave beneath him disappeared meaning the drop was actually much further down, *SPLAT*. Tom had completely backslapped the water! Ouch! It was however a gorgeous sunset and a good Instagram picture.
What we didn’t consider however, was that once the sun had set we wouldn’t be able to dry off and we would have to drive back to the hostel in the dark and both freezing cold...DUH! We eventually got back and thought we would have a nice shower to warm ourselves up...but the water at the hostel wasn’t working so we had to have a bucket shower, which was far from pleasant! For dinner tonight we decided to just go to the Nepalese place again (our logic was when you find somewhere good in India that didn’t make you sick just keep going there, as reducing the number of places you eat at reduced your chances of getting food poisoning). The food was just as good as the previous night, and after dinner tonight we both got a ginger, lemon and honey tea to wash it down with. However, as the guy was preparing it a weird guy came off the street chatting to him...the guy making our tea was obviously used to this guy, presumably the local psycho, so didn’t take much notice of him at all. However, Tom and I certainly noticed him, especially when he picked up one of our teas and gave it a huge sniff! We were joking about who would get that tea, both of us keeping our eyes on which one he had touched but the waiter took them both back to the kitchen to add something else...so we will never know who drank the one that the man sniffed. Oh well, it was delicious! We made our way back to the hostel where we wanted to get some good rest in these amazing beds!Okumaya devam et
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- Gün 40
- 14 Şubat 2020 Cuma
- ☀️ 33 °C
- Yükseklik: 20 m
HindistanPatnem15°0’16” N 74°1’51” E
Gokarna to South Goa

I woke and quickly checked the train times from Gokarna. For some reason, the train was actually an hour earlier than we thought it was so it wasn’t quite the chilled wake-up, pack-up and leave we had planned but we packed our stuff up and checked-out the place, paying the 800 rupees we owed for the accommodation...they didn’t realise we forgot to pay for lunch yesterday so we got away with that one! We walked over to Gokarna town and haggled a TukTuk to the train station for 180. We got to the train station bought our tickets for 35rupees and waited for the train to come...it was obviously an hour late but it eventually turned up. We each bought samosas on the train and watched the world go by as we entered the state of Goa.
After the 2 hour train journey we arrive at Cancona station where we would be getting off to go to Patnem, South Goa. We decided to walk to the hostel as it was only a 3km walk, but it was boiling hot and we regretted it by the time we got to our hostel, Base hostel. It was a small hostel, but very nice, hidden away from the main road with hammocks and a chill out area outside. We got into our room, used the shower (unfortunately it was cold) and chilled on the extremely comfortable beds for a little while where I sent my dad a happy birthday text.
After a little while we decided to go and check out Patnem beach. We had decided to stay in Patnem, instead of its busier neighbour Palolem as we had heard that Palolem was quite busy and developed, whereas Patnem was more quiet and less commercial. When we got to the beach, we were both surprised at actually how it was still quite resorty. There were quite a lot of people, overpriced restaurants and resorts but the beach was beautiful nonetheless and the water was perfect after our morning on the sweaty train. We had a nice short walk along the beach, and tried to get to another beach, but the tide was too high. We chilled out for a while with the occasional swim in the sea to cool ourselves down (it was very hot today) before we decided it we’d had enough sun for the day.
We went back to the room for showers and got dressed to go out and get some dinner. We both actually made an effort tonight, both wearing deodorant, aftershave and a shirt! We actually felt clean and western again, which was quite nice. We watched the sunset at Patnem beach, watching people playing around with their frisbees and then we went to Woodo cafe, a Nepalese restaurant that we had checked out earlier on, for some dinner. We ordered a Thali each which was amazing, I even upgraded to the “special Thali” where you got a paneer curry included. My favourite curry was the carrot curry they had included, it was amazing and it’s safe to say there wasn’t any waste on our plates...in fact after food we ordered veg and cheese momos... this was going to decide if we went to Nepal or not, if these momos were good we would go, if not we would keep our flights to Myanmar. The momos came and they were amazing! We are going to Nepal!!
After food, we made our way back to the hostel, chilled out and then got into our comfy beds to get some sleep!Okumaya devam et
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- Gün 39
- 13 Şubat 2020 Perşembe
- ☀️ 33 °C
- Yükseklik: 8 m
HindistanOm Beach14°31’6” N 74°20’14” E
Gokarna Beach Hopping

We woke up and were out at by 8. We walked over to Om beach where we had been the previous day and enjoyed a Masala Dosa for breakfast to fuel us for our walk to the more remote beaches we had heard about. We found a path at the end of Om beach and followed it through passing through jungle and desert like terrain in the process with beautiful coastal views. After a while in the already scorching heat, we arrived at half moon beach, a beautiful beach with a little shack serving food, however nobody around.
We decided to continue to the final beach, “Paradise beach” and chill out on half moon beach later on, on our way back through. Following a path that was actually guided by red paint on the occasional rock, we walked through similar terrain to the previous path, albeit this time a bit more risky and eventually we arrived to Paradise beach. It was a beautiful beach, slightly rocky but beautiful nonetheless, however as we stepped foot onto the beach we felt eyes on us straight away. Paradise beach was quite well known for Hippie travellers coming here and spending day upon day camping here, getting high and inevitably meeting other people with dreadlocks. We were not disappointed, it was as if we were Leonardo Dicaprio and the French guy from the beach. Clearly nobody really wanted us there (it’s because we didn’t have dreadlocks I guess). There was one guy in particular on this beach who had dreadlocks down to his ankles and was wearing an all in one black oversized shirt, he walked towards the sea taking off this shirt to be completely naked underneath. He then got out of the sea after ‘cleaning himself’ and got his homemade fishing rod to go and catch his own fish...he was unsuccessful but at least he tried. We enjoyed the beach for a little while, went for a swim in the perfect water before leaving this little bit of paradise with all it’s hippie inhabitants.
We went back to Half moon beach and there was no shade at all, so we went to a cafe where Tom got a ginger, lemon and honey tea. We thought we’d try and book some trains as we’d heard that they get booked up. The apps we were using were the right ones, however, like everything in India they didn’t make sense. One even took the money and then didn’t give us ticket!! We spent some time on the helpline to the train company, but couldn’t understand a thing. For whatever reason we then got our tickets whilst on the phone... We went for a swim and then made our way back to Om beach for some more relaxation and swimming in the sea before heading back to Kudle beach. We chilled out back at our place and then went to watch the sunset where we met with Tobias, the German guy we had met in Hampi. We went for dinner together at a place Tom and I had seen yesterday, got some biscuits to enjoy after dinner and then called it a night.Okumaya devam et
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- Gün 38
- 12 Şubat 2020 Çarşamba
- ⛅ 32 °C
- Yükseklik: 14 m
HindistanOm Beach14°31’43” N 74°18’56” E
Overnight bus and Gokarna

I probably got about 30 minutes sleep on the night bus. Nothing to do with sharing a very thin bench like bed, but the fact that these buses are rough...really rough. They bump around, they’re noisy, and for some reason the Indian road network has speed bumps every couple of kilometres on the highways, so lying down you constantly get tossed up in the air. We arrived at where they announced was Gokarna. I quickly checked the map and saw we were at least 20km from Gokarna. With sleepy heads, we got off and we’re told that another little mini van would take us the final leg. We had to get our backpacks out of the boot of the bus, so the guy came to open it. Tom’s was at the front, but mine had slipped back and was in the depths of the bus, so I crawled in and retrieved it...the guy who had opened the back up then asked for a tip, the cheeky sod, and even gave me a ball park figure of 30 rupees. We just laughed at him and walked off to the next bus. This journey was actually ok considering it was 3:30am. However, when we got close to Gokarna he stopped and turned the engine off and the lights on and told us to get off. We were still a couple of kilometres away but as it was early and cool we decided to walk. A french guy on the same bus was staying 7km away and there were no Tuktuks around so he asked the bus driver what he was meant to do - the suggestion came to walk - he was very unhappy.
We walked to the beach and tried to come up with a plan of action. We had decided not to book anywhere as Tom had heard that you could just rock up and stay in a beachside shack. As it was only 5am nothing was open and we thought about maybe getting a hostel for the night, but decided against it and just made our way over the hills to Kudle Beach. We sat on the beach for a while watching the cows and the dogs all waking up and the sun rise, our first here in India. Tom went to see what he could find for accommodation and came back about half an hour later with some offers. One place would do 200 rupees a night but was full of cockroaches, another was 600 a night - no cockroaches, but well over budget, and the third was 300 per night no bugs and the closest to where we were sat...deal! We went in and it was all ok for £3 per night, and as we were exhausted we both passed out on the bed until about 9am. When we woke it was getting quite hot so we went out and checked out the beach in the sunshine, now with lots more people on it. The water was amazing though, and we just relaxed for a couple of hours.
It began to get really hot, probably up to about 35° so we dragged our stuff back up the beach towards the shade of a tree. Even in the shade it was boiling, so we decided to just get lunch at the cafe which our accommodation was behind. We sat and planned out the next couple of days as we were wanting to take things much looser in India in terms of plans and just move on from one place when we felt like it. We had lunch and absolutely forgot to pay for it but didn’t get chased so all good there! We decided to go and check out Om Beach, just a half hour walk over the hills and when we got there, we were pleasantly surprised as we’d previously heard it was full of Russians. It was nice and quiet and the water was gorgeous! We spent an hour swimming round and messing around and decided to go back to Kudle Beach for sunset.
On the way back, a beach guard stopped me and asked to look in the bag. We’d heard how the police had cracked down on drug use on the beaches. After he looked through a couple of items I asked if he was looking for drugs and he said yes. He also said to the other guard that it was all clean - good to know! We got back to our beach shack to get showered. I walked into the bathroom and heard a strange scraping noise, looked right down at my feet and there was a massive black snake slithering it’s way away from me towards the toilet!! I spun round urging Tom to get out over and over then said simply - there’s a snake! We got out the room to reassess and decided that we’d go back in to check I was right. Tom couldn’t see it at first; but then did behind the toilet. We both decided that we couldn’t sleep in that shack for the next couple of nights as we didn’t want to wake up with a snake on our face. We grabbed all of our stuff and upgraded ourselves to a 400 rupee a night beach house with bricks and mortar - looked sturdy and snake proof.
We got showered and cleaned up, we’d spent 4 days in boiling hot Hampi and a night bus without a shower as the one in Hampi was non existent, this was our first shower in 5 days, we felt truly grim. We checked out the beach for sunset and then walked back over to Gokarna town for some dinner and to find Tom some flip flops which he managed to haggle down to £2. We grabbed some dinner on the rooftop restaurant and I FaceTimed home where Mum, Harry, Bob and Sally-Anne were having lunch in Ilkley. We had a long chat about stuff here and there, but it was nice to be briefly transported back into home world, a world where every meal isn’t curry! We walked back over to Kudle beach and got a well deserved early night.Okumaya devam et
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- Gün 37
- 11 Şubat 2020 Salı
- ⛅ 27 °C
- Yükseklik: 421 m
HindistanSānāpur15°20’50” N 76°26’21” E
Hampi Chill Day

Again, Tom slept very well last night but I did not, I’d woken up feeling terrible, so we agreed to just take it easy today. We packed up our things as we were checking out and heading to Gokarna this evening on a night bus, and then made our way to our favourite local place for a Masala Dosa breakfast. Went back to the hostel and chilled out on the day beds enjoying the view of the rice paddies directly in front of our hostel. Just after midday we decided to check out the swimming spot near to our hostel, not having particularly high expectations for it I was really blown away with how beautiful it was when we got there. We enjoyed the warm sunshine and before no time went into the water. Not a crocodile in sight and it was so refreshing! After a little while after chilling out on the rocks and soaking up the sunshine was made our way back to the hostel to chill out for a little while as I still wasn’t feeling 100% and I’d need as much rest as possible as I doubted I’d get any sleep on this night bus.
We decided that we’d pay up as we didn’t want to get held up when it game to leaving. Finally the hostel owner turned up. It was 2295 rupees to pay between us and we tried to pay separately, but as usual, change was an issue. So I paid him first and got change, but then figured that if I just paid for Tom too, we’d get more change as they always round things down here. I asked him to give me another lot of change so me and Tom would figure it out between us. The hostel guy took us both by surprise with what he did next...he said to Tom “hey, give me your money”. He wasn’t prepared to give us the full change without having everything first. He was so aggressive and I asked him if he thought we were going to run away. They guy said no, so I said for him to calm down and not be so rude. Both of us were left shocked by the whole experience and we would certainly be writing a savage review as the hostel made us both ill and it was dirty. This could usually be overlooked if the staff are good, but all of them were money grabbers.
An hour or two had passed and we decided to walk to the shops to get some snacks for our night bus tonight. We got a bag full of snacks and it only cost us £1, total! On our way back we stopped off at our favourite place again for Veggie Thali and it was not a disappointment, it was delicious - we sure were going to miss this place!
We went back to the hostel got our bags said our goodbyes to people (despite most of them heading to Gokarna in the coming days) and we left the hostel and walked the 2.5km back to Hippie island and the exact spot we would be getting the TukTuk to the bus station. The TukTuk obviously didn’t leave at 18:30 like it said it would, but eventually the driver crammed 7 of us into a TukTuk and began to drive into the middle of nowhere. After a bumpy journey through various little towns and driving on the wrong side the of the road we stopped in the central reservation of a motorway, apparently this was the bus station. As he dropped us off the TukTuk driver, who crammed us all into 1 TukTuk instead of two and drove like a psychopath asked us all for tips...the Polish woman in the TukTuk refused saying that we had already paid for the TukTuk, he then turned to George and I who backed her up by saying we would definitely not be tipping, especially as he was quite rude! We waited here for an hour until finally the bus arrived. We threw our bags in the luggage hold and got onboard to find our 2 seats that we booked. However, there were only beds on the bus, so we ended up having to share a single bed...Okumaya devam et
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- Gün 36
- 10 Şubat 2020 Pazartesi
- ⛅ 27 °C
- Yükseklik: 419 m
HindistanHampi15°21’0” N 76°28’4” E
Hampi by bicycle

I woke Tom up at 845, after we both had an amazing night sleep, probably getting 10 hours! We got ready and made our way to our favourite food place (I.e. the only food place we had tried in the area) and got a Masala Dosa for breakfast before returning to the hostel to take out some bicycles out. After our unnecessarily thorough induction by our host on how to ride a bike and how to lock one up, we were on the road. These bikes were much better than the last bikes we took out in Kalpitiya, so we were going much faster this time. We were passing through beautiful scenery, rivers and rice paddies to the left, and enormous boulder mountains to the right. We had pinned a few things on our map the day before to go visit.
Our first stop was Kishkanda Temple. It was right on top of one of the boulder mountains so inevitably there were steps to climb - only 570 this time unlike Adams Peak. However, the heat was extreme so it felt like miles and miles to the top. Eventually we got there and were treated to a 360° view of the whole of Hampi. With it still being quite early in the day, the dust and heat hadn’t hazed up the air, so the view was clear and we could see miles. At the top there was a little ceremony happening with people gathering round a very old man with face paints on seemingly getting religious advice. Inside the temple, people were offering food to a man who then gave them oil and salt. They would then smear the oil on their face and hair and then sprinkle the salt over their heads. It was obviously quite a sacred place for a lot of people, so we just observed. After a while we headed down, with all these Indian people coming up calling out “Jai Sriyam” over and over again, obviously some prayer. When we were asked what country we were from they started chanting “Jai England”. No idea what it meant, but it was quite a nice chant. We hopped back on our bikes and headed to a couple of other temples, one of which was abandoned which looked cool but was a bit creepy. We messed around here for a bit, and drank the last of our water...it was now getting boiling hot outside, at least 35° so we sought refuge at a little shop and bought some more water and some snacks.
To get further out of the heat, we cycled to a little cafe which was overlooking the rice paddies and chilled out here for a bit. I wasn’t feeling too well as I think I’d caught a cold the previous day, so I just lay down as Tom read his book and we ordered a couple of cups of tea, one Mint and one Ginger Lemon. They took ages to arrive and then one did and looked all milky so Tom went to sort out the order and eventually we got them. We chilled here for a bit waiting for the heat to subside, and then hopped back on the bikes and took a back road towards the reservoir. We’d heard that there was a swimming spot and even a big boulder you could jump off into the lake. We took this back road and surprisingly there was nobody on it, busy rice paddies and little villages to the left and right. It was the best thing we’d seen so far in Hampi, and maybe even India. Eventually we got to where the two Hampi reservoirs were. We were so happy to see some water after being so hot all day and tried to find the swimming spot. We couldn’t find it!! So we thought it might be on the other side of the lake, we cycled down over a bridge and then I saw people round the corner to where we were swimming. We went straight back, locked the bikes up and went to the place.
There were a group of Indians, a few British and a group of guys and girls from Sudan. There was some debate as to where was safe to jump in and if there were rocks. Tom went to be spotted in the water and dove down to see if there were rocks...there was one but it shouldn’t be in the jumping zone. We went to the top of the rock where there was a bunch of Indians and one of the group from he Sudan. Still nobody was sure really where to jump. I always try and jump high and far out in this situation, so I geared myself up and became a flying guinea pig with a running start of course. I hit the water and thankfully there were no rocks, good job Tom! This set the ball rolling for others and I was followed by the Sudanese guy, Tom and an Indian guy fully dressed. After a long day on the bikes, the water was amazing even though we’d read online and on signposts that the waters were infested with crocodiles, there wasn’t even a lizard in sight. We played around here for a bit and jumped a few more times.
The brits who were at the lake were all the things I hate about travelling. They were at this beautiful lake, in the gorgeous sunshine and all they were doing was getting high...periodically checking if we wanted any. Of course we said no, but when offered chocolate biscuits we took the chance! After chilling here for a bit we went over to the Hippie Island where we’d seen a sunset spot on the maps. Eventually we got there down the bumpy roads and then had yet another boulder hill to climb. It wasn’t too difficult this time and we managed to get an amazing spot right on the edge. Both Tom and I FaceTimed home to catch up as this was the best signal we’d had in a couple of days. We enjoyed the sunset and cycled back to our place on the bikes and promptly went for dinner back to the same place where we both got our own thali as it was amazing and we were starving. As I wasn’t feeling too well, we went back to the hostel and I just rested up as Tom wrote some diary and read his book. It had been a long day out on the bikes and in the sun, but we’d seen loads of Hampi, time for a good sleep.Okumaya devam et
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- Gün 35
- 9 Şubat 2020 Pazar
- ☀️ 28 °C
- Yükseklik: 426 m
HindistanHampi15°20’3” N 76°27’41” E
Hampi Temple Exploring

We woke up after having a pretty good sleep in our double dorm bed, got a breakfast masala dosa at the restaurant we went to last night and then made our way over to Hippie island, where we would get the ferry to cross the river. However, as we were walking a peculiar man approached us, showing us a scatty piece of paper reading “Ear Doctor”, with some references from his previous happy customers and then started to shove a metal instrument into Tom’s ear and started to pull out wax and show me how dirty his ear was....as Tom had blocked ears anyway from the beaches, he thought he’d ask him to do the other ear whilst he was there. We knew the inevitable demand for money was coming, but as soon as he tried it on we walked off...it was his decision to go into Tom’s war in the first place. We began to walk towards the ferry point and noticed 2 guys walking a different way... we had heard of a way you can just walk across the river without paying so thought that’s what they were doing...indeed it was. They showed us how to cross, walking through waist level water to get to the other side we came out triumphant having saved ourselves 20 rupees each.
As soon as we got to the other side we were hounded by TukTuk drivers trying to sell us a tour of the temples to which we politely said no to as we were going to get a moped and drive round ourselves...(we were originally going to rent a moped from our hostel and drive round to the other side but we were informed that it’s was forbidden to take a moped from this side of the river over to the other side and we would have to get a moped there). We looked around the street for a little while trying to find somewhere to rent a moped from (with a hundred TukTuk drivers pestering us at each second) and we soon realised there was nowhere to rent mopeds from. We decided to have a few minutes to collect our thoughts and decided what we were going to do, but one TukTuk driver just wouldn’t leave us alone and was insisting on showing us this map of the temples for the 50th time...I was getting really impatient so just said to him “will you just please stop talking!!”...he left with his tail between his legs and we decided to just get a TukTuk tour to show us round the free temples. Eventually, after a lot of negotiation and fake walkaways (our bartering technique) we came to an agreement with a driver to take us round all the free temples for 400 rupees.
We were told the Tuktuk tour would take us around 3 hours, and we’d visit all the free sites in Hampi including hidden tunnels, underground temples, ancient bazaars, ruins, step wells, queens baths, the list went on and on. In the Krishna temple we were both walking around taking in the really well preserved temple when a middle age lady approached us with her daughter lingering behind. The (we assumed) mother started to ask us lots of questions about us; how old are you? What do you do for work? Which country we were from? Do we have wives at home? What qualifications we have? Etc. We soon realised that she was trying to set us up with her daughter, we had heard about this- Indian parents trying to set their children up with Western boys but we just said for them to enjoy their day and carried on.
After about 3 hours of seeing the temples and ruins of the ancient city of Hampi our TukTuk driver told us that we were finished..and I think Tom and I were secretly happy as we were a little templed out. On the drive back the TukTuk driver stopped outside a temple that were having some form of party. It was a colourful, vibrant and noisy affair with free food! We were given a large metal place and presented with a portion of rice and various curries, we sat on a wall adjacent to the temple and ate this tasty food before going up for seconds! Satisfied with the tour and the free lunch our guy managed to get us, was paid him with an extra 100 on top. However, he still requested more and also requested any foreign currency we had as he was collecting... a little cheeky, but nice try!
We then walked to the Hampi Bazaar where I got into negotiations with a woman about buying some vests.m as it was so hot for even T-shirt’s. She practically emptied her entire collection onto her shop floor and I found various different polite ways to tell her each vest she was showing me was awful...I eventually found 2 which would do and managed to get them both for 400, a bargain that I was pretty happy with after she firstly asked me for 1,200! We aimed to walk to the top of a boulder mountain for a cool viewpoint. On the way Tom grabbed a cucumber - the woman initially wanted 20rupees but he got the smallest one for 10. Thinking it would be a nice non spicy meal, the woman then decided she’d sprinkle it with salt and masala powder! We walked on a bit following the river and we sat at a temple for a while to get out of the heat. Soon after an Indian guy came up to us and started talking about wresting and asked for our water (definitely not) and then he asked how we get so white. We both responded saying that we were white people, but he didn’t get it and then asked if we used some sort of special cream...all a bit weird.
We walked through Achyutaraya Temple which was really impressive and dead quiet, so we stayed here a while before climbing the boulder mountain - Matanga Hill. The boulders were massive when you got up close to them and the views were amazing on the climb up. As usual, I entered mountain goat mode and started clambering all over the rocks, jumping from one to another. Tom however has a much stronger sense of self preservation so took a more sensible route up to the top.
After this long day of being in the Tuktuk and doing plenty of waking, we decided to call it a day and head back before sunset, crossing the river on foot to avoid the charge and we walked back to the hostel as the sun went down. There were a few more people at the hostel tonight so we grabbed as many people as we could and went back to our little place for a feast and to get to know people.Okumaya devam et
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- Gün 34
- 8 Şubat 2020 Cumartesi
- ☀️ 27 °C
- Yükseklik: 421 m
HindistanSānāpur15°20’50” N 76°26’21” E
Kochi —> Hampi

We were up and out of our hotel room, despite not wanting to get out of the comfy bed, by 440 and arrived at the check-in desk at Kochi international airport just after 5. It was interesting being at the airport with the worry of Coronovirus pretty much global now. People were walking round with masks on and there was definitely a lot of measures being taken to ensure it didn’t spread. We checked into our flight and compared food prices in the airport. To both of our discomfort we ended up sharing a meal from KFC with additional loaded chicken fries, our first western food of the trip and of course it was our most expensive yet (still only like £3.50 total). We boarded our flight to Hubli, it was a propella plane and was probably the smallest plane I have ever been on! The flight took off into the smoggy air that hovered above Kochi and we could see the final stages of the sun rising over the horizon.
I managed to get some sleep on the plane, my head swinging around in the aisle like a pendulum. After I woke up, we listened to some music and before we knew it the seatbelt lights come back on as we begun our descent into Hubli. It was such a short flight, but had cut out a lot of hassle with trains and buses, all for just £20 too. We got off the plane, walked towards the airport terminal - just a single building - and we were pleasantly surprised that the air was cool...a welcome change from the stifling air in Alleppey. Our bags were first off, so we grabbed them and headed out to grab a Tuktuk to Hubli train station with the intention of going to another town called Hospet where we could then get to Hampi. Unfortunately when we got there at 9am we discovered the only train that day to Hospet was at 13:30! As it was still early and cool enough, we walked to the bus staying a few kilometres away to see if a bus was a better option. We’d been warned about not taking this journey by bus as the road was shocking and it takes over 5 hours. We also found the bus was 120 rupees each compared to the train at 65. We thought we better get the train as it would save money and be pretty similar in time overall. On the way back we grabbed some street food which was amazing - a mix of rice and dhal and raita! This killed plenty of time, along with looking for an ATM (which we didn’t find) so the wait for the train was ok.
We got our general class tickets and attempted to get on. As it was our first train experience we had no idea, but we got onto general class which was jam packed full of locals and went on the hunt for some seats. We eventually found some, and got sat down, but not even a minute later a man came back and started shouting at us that these were his seats (even though there are no reservations). We were so British about it all and just got up with only a small resistance. We then got on a different carriage which had loads of space, but was a sleeper so our tickets weren’t valid. Oh well, we’d risk it...we got sat down and could have a little relax. We were quickly joined by a bunch of Indian guys who took great interest in us asking loads of questions etc etc. It was basically a three hour train ride/ interview. One of the group was a bit odd and decided to FaceTime his friends and showing he was sat with two white guys clearly saying in Hindi that we were from London over and over again. Anyway, we made it nearly to Hospet when the ticket conductor came round and busted us for being in the wrong carriage - the fine was just the difference between the two tickets, but we just said we’d stand by the door and not pay the extra £0.80 each.
We got off in Hospet and were met with a barrage of Tuktuk offers, at the same time a tiny woman in a face mask pounced on me demanding information, I asked what fit and she just repeated “INFORMATION!!” I told her I wasn’t giving out information without a reason and we started to haggle for a Tuktuk. She then started video recording us and was on the phone to someone. We assumed it was all to do with Coronavirus, but it was all a bit unofficial. We managed to get a Tuktuk for 175 rupees, down from an initial 1200 and went in search of an ATM. It was a nightmare, none were open or they didn’t have cash, and our Monzo cards didn’t work. I was trying all cards in one ATM and eventually managed to use my trusty NatWest card to get money...as Hampi didn’t have any ATMs it was panic stations for about half an hour. After a short drive we arrived in Hampi, a town famous for its vast expanses of boulder mountains and temples. We got dropped at the south side of the river and we’d heard about the ferry across - but this was not a ferry, it was a tiny rowing boat with a motor on the back and it wasn’t more than 30 meters across the river. To take this, a 40 rupee charge was in place, 20 for the person and 20 for the backpack. After a long day this felt like a bit of a kick in the teeth, but oh well. We got to the other side and actually had a free pickup from the hostel...happy to get our stuff of our backs, we immediately went to a sunset spot near the hostel and chilled for a bit before deciding where we’d go for dinner.
We didn’t venture far, maybe 50 meters to Nayana hotel, A tiny kitchen shack, but it was well reviewed. We shared a veg thali, masala dosa and poori to try a few things. They were all amazing and we decided there and then that this family would feed us for the next three days as it was also very cheap!
Exhausted, we chilled in the hostel and met a few cool people including Tobias, a German guy who had been travelling for the last two years. He had already been to Central America and some other places we were interested in, so we just chilled and picked his brains for a bit. Eventually it was time to head to bed as we were going to have a few long days ahead seeing Hampi and the surrounding areas.Okumaya devam et
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- Gün 33
- 7 Şubat 2020 Cuma
- ⛅ 31 °C
- Yükseklik: 6 m
HindistanCochin International Airport10°9’42” N 76°23’23” E
Alleppey —> Fort Kochi —> Kochi Airport

Up at 730, we left the hostel in good time and walked the 2.5km to the bus station. On the journey it started spitting with rain, but we thought we would not get a Tuktuk we would just carry on...with the bus station in sight it started to pour so we made a run for it. In the train station there was a very small shop called “bakery and cool juice bar”, they were also selling naan/chapati bread with some curry, and it was jam packed with locals which is only ever a god sign. We squeeze into the shop putting out big bags underneath the table and sat whilst the food was brought over to us. We ate with our hands of course and the food was delicious and only for 40 rupee each. Stomached no longer empty we asked somebody at the bus station the best way to get to Fort Kochi, a bus to Thoppumpaddy and then change there to Fort Cochin, all together it should cost around 60-70 rupees each. We got on the bus and oh no it was another “super fast” bus! Would we survive? The ticket man happened to be the same man that we just spoke to at the station, we couldn’t get ripped off now!? 45 rupee for bus from Alleppey to Thoppumpaddy and then we found a bus going to Kochi beach and jumped on that as it was still moving, for 10 rupees - so a total of 55 rupees, or about 60p. We were dropped off and then dumped our bags in a nearby hostel after they agreed to do it for no charge (they initially wanted 150 per bag) and then started aimlessly walking around. It was so hot, 33°C according to our phones, but it felt more like 40° due to there being no breeze and it wasn’t helped by the lack of shade as it was midday.
We walked along the coast and were surprise that locals were just selling tat and there were a lot of older tourists here. We saw the Chinese fishing nets (that neither of us really understood), Fort Cochin beach and then got some shade in St Francis church, where Vasco de Gamas tomb is. Whilst getting ready to leave I felt somebody stroke his back, he thought it was me playing around but it was actually a weird Indian man that had taken a liking to me - weird. We continued to walk around in the heat and after being asked to leave a temple because it was closed we decided to get some food nearby. I did a quick Google and found a local place nearby called Kayees, a local cafe where we went in and were seated next to 2 other Indian guys. We got to talking with them, they were in town on business and we asked them what was good to eat here...they responded with Mutton Biriyani. Shortly after the waiter come over and basically said in very few words that chicken Biriyani was all they had...so our vegetarian stint was now over, however the food was delicious and we ate every bit. We walked around for a bit more after food, but a little slower than we previously were. Before long we were in a street called “Jew street”, where we learnt that Kochi was the oldest Jewish settlement in India. We walked past colourful shops selling spices, antiques and clothing and eventually found a little restaurant where we each ordered a Lassi and enjoyed that in the shade, away from the burning sun. In our British ways, Tom asked the couple behind us if it was okay for me to move the fan in our direction a little, to which the man responded “yes, we mind”, we both laughed and Tom proceeded to spin it around assuming he was joking. He then more seriously said “I said I do mind, air is so important”... (ironic really considering they both lit up cigarette shortly afterwards). Tom spun the fan reassuring them that he wasn’t going to completely take it away from them...what a miserable couple!
After finishing our lassis we walked back to the hostel where we left our bags, unsure whether we would be charged or not by the guy. We collected our bags and didn’t have to pay (RESULT). With our heavy bags on our backs we made our way to the ferry port where I queued up Indian styled (basically it was carnage) and paid 6 rupees each (6 pence) for the ferry back over to the mainland. We then started to walk to the bus station which was around 1.6 Kilometres away, it felt like we were walking for hours not helped by the fact that Tom’s small bag was completely ripped open meaning he had to hold it shut the entire way. We were once again on the search for a bag shop and Tom had his prayers answered on this journey as we walked past a shop called “Magnet Bags”, We walked in and managed to haggle a bag for 600 rupees, or £6 and managed to get the guy to staple up his old bag so it was easier to manage. With a slight spring in his step we made it towards the bus station, but the staples hadn’t worked. Within two minutes the bag was in pieces again. We quickly got to the bus station and eventually got on a bus going to the airport. Initially, we asked the station master which bus was going via the airport. He said it leave at 18:00,m...not exactly the answer we were looking for but we had time so I thought we could just check later. We tried to find some food, but there was nothing around, so went back to the bus station. As 18:00 was fast approaching I was keen to know which bus. The new station master was just as helpful, so I just started getting on all the buses asking which was going to the airport. Nobody knew, typical, so I went back to our bag pyramid. It was at this point I noticed the place name “Nedumbassery”, which I knew was the airport. As I had already been on this bus to ask I went back and asked another passenger and they confirmed it was the right bus...with about 5 minutes to go we jumped on and got some seats. Thankfully this was an AC bus so it was nice and cool, however, we both got cold as what would usually be a 30 minute journey turned into 2 hours thanks to Kochi and it’s roadworks.
Eventually we got to the bus stand where we initially got the bus from the airport the other day and we walked to our hotel ‘Alfa Inn’ for the night. We grabbed a veg biriyani on the way back and got some well needed rest as we’d be up early for our flight to Hubli tomorrow morningOkumaya devam et
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- Gün 32
- 6 Şubat 2020 Perşembe
- ⛅ 32 °C
- Yükseklik: 9 m
HindistanVatta Kāyal9°29’48” N 76°22’49” E
Alleppey and the Kerala Backwaters

I awoke at about 7am, after having an ok first night sleep last night! I threw some clothes on and went outside to see if anything was going on, but the only thing around was the hostel puppy. I went back to the room to wake Tom so we could get ready for our backwaters trip today. We were up and ready for 8am as instructed and waited around at the hostel (with no communication of course). There were 7 of us from the hostel doing the Canoe trip today so we were confident that it would be a good day. Eventually a guy walked through the hostel gates telling us to all follow him, to which we all got up and did exactly that, followed him. He lead us to his TukTuk, where he (without communicating) left us on the side of the road whilst he drove down the road with an empty TukTuk....what was happening? He shortly returned, followed by another TukTuk. The group of 7 split off into the two TukTuks and we made our way to the ferry port where we were issued onto a ferry with all the other white people and some locals. After around 1 hour on the ferry we arrived at our “station” and each got off and were directed to a house where we would be having breakfast.
The house was very simple (unlike so many of its neighbours) being made from the frame and plasterboard alone, with no plaster or paint to brighten the place up at all. We were served our breakfast of bread and curry with Masala tea and then made our way to board our canoes. It was 6 to a canoe, we were grouped with a couple from Israel and an older couple from France and we managed to get the front seats somehow! We slowly passed through the waterways passing by some beautiful houses and some very basic and saw wives washing clothes in the water, people bathing in the water, washing their pots and pans in the water and fishing with small homemade stick rods. It was very quiet and peaceful with the occasional engine boat passing us. We did this for around 2 hours and then the sun starting blazing down on us and now being at the front didn’t feel like too much of a blessing... we dipped our hands into the water in efforts to cool ourselves down but that wasn’t really working, as we were appreciating the occasional breeze that would pass. At one point I dangled my hand into the water where he obviously felt something stroke past his hand causing him to freak out and shake the entire boat by doing so...it was just a plant, but safe to say I’d never moved so quick! We were dropped off at a shop and bought some snacks, we each had a samosa, a savoury donut thing that we didn’t know the name of and a banana and were quickly back on our canoe to go back to the house where we had breakfast this morning. It was boiling hot, nkt helped by the lack of breeze and the very slow pace we were being canoed along at. When we eventually got back to the plasterboard house, we were served rice with a variation of different curries for lunch and it just kept coming! After lunch we had tea and then went to get the ferry back to the town - all in all a great trip for £10!
Instead of getting a Tuktuk back to the hostel we decided to stay in the town for a little while and walk back to the hostel. I wanted to find some flip flops and a bag, and I wanted to look for a vest...we both failed in our hunt but instead found some good snacks! The nut-man served us warm peanuts and some sort of wasabi peas, which were delicious and cheap! On the walk we were separately intercepted by a few groups of school kids who found whatever we said hilarious! We eventually got back to our hostel, and chilled out for the rest of the evening.Okumaya devam et
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- Gün 31
- 5 Şubat 2020 Çarşamba
- ☀️ 31 °C
- Yükseklik: 13 m
HindistanKommādinilam9°31’14” N 76°21’21” E
Sri Lanka —> India —> Alleppey

I woke up at 3:30 worried that I wasn’t going to get up or that we weren’t going to be able to get an Uber. After last night, we had very little faith left in Uber and the guys accepting the rides. We both got up at 4am and got ourselves ready, but once again we had an Uber disaster. Drivers were accepting our request to go to the airport, but they were either cancelling or telling us to cancel...they obviously don’t know how it works. They were also asking for us to tell them where we were, which again is pointless as they know from the request. I was all for waking to the Airport, it would take about an hour. We even downloaded the local version of Uber but they were no better, The guy who accepted calling us basically to say he wasn’t coming. After half an hour lost, I said that we needed to start walking, and that we’d just hitchhike to the airport. We set off walking with all our stuff, but ran immediately into a problem. There were dogs, lots of dogs, and not the nice kind; these were viscous and barking at us just for being in the road at 4:30. We had to change our route, but all along it there were dogs making their way towards us on the road and barking right at us. I’m not usually scared of dogs, but when they outnumbered us, it was pretty bad - Jennie would have decided to just miss the flight rather than face them. During all this, Tom has managed to summon an Uber, so we decided to walk towards where he was coming from and eventually found him and got inside...safe from the dogs.
We finally got to the airport at 5am...it had taken an hour to do 3 kilometres. With the recent outbreak of Coronavirus, there were a lot of people wearing masks, both passengers and security staff. We didn’t have such a luxury, but Tom had read that they actually don’t do anything and it was contact, so we kept our bottle of hand sanitiser close by. We got through all security, spent the last of our Sri Lankan Rupees on one piece of Banana bread, which was amazing, and then we did the standard spray ourselves with as much aftershave testers as possible so we’d smell good - even for just a few hours. The flight was only an hour, but it was a massive plane with screens and everything. We made the most of the games on the screens, we even got a snack on the plane and before we knew it, we were landing in India!
For some reason, there was a mad rush by the other passengers (all either Indian or Sri Lankan) to get up and get their luggage, even when the doors were still sealed shut. We walked the bridge to the terminal building and the first thing we were asked by a guard was “are you from China?”....close but no. We went to the E-Visa line and we had a little interview from an officer with all the usual questions and boom, we were in. We’d heard about the ‘selfie culture’ in India and how they love having westerners in their pictures and videos. After we got our SIM cards, the guy in the shop next door asked us if we could be videoed saying “happy birthday Malou”, so we did of course hoping this sort of request wouldn’t be every 10 minutes for the next two months. We got some cash and headed for the bus stop trying to get to Alleppey for the famous backwaters. We managed to get on a bus which was going to Vythilla which we were told we could then change and get to Alleppey. It didn’t take too long to see how much traffic there was in India, but it was as expected. We changed buses onto a ‘Superfast’ local bus which was totally open sided. After a slow start, we then realised where this type of bus got its name...the driver was driving like a lunatic, Weaving in and out of traffic as if in a sports car, not a 10 tonne bus. I decided that it was best to not even look at what was happening on the road, and in truth, we both managed to get a bit of sleep on this bus. After 90 minutes we got into Alleppey and happily got off the bus with our lives still ahead of us, we went to a Airtel store to sort Toms phone out which was relatively painless and then immediately started bargaining for a Tuktuk (something we would have to get used to now we don’t have one 😀🛺). We had been told that anything less than 100 was a good price to our hostel and the guy that stopped agreed to do it for 80...after we had to show him the exact location of the hostel on a map, give him the exact address and even their phone number for him to call... Tom began to get a little short with him, “are you going to take us or not”... and eventually he did. He had a very fancy speaker system built into his TukTuk, which he begun to blast music out of! Firstly he played Indian music, then LMFAO’s ‘I’m sexy and I know it’ and then Snoop Dog’s ‘Drop it like its hot’...as we passed through the busy streets of Alleppey we were mortified and almost embarrassed to be in a TukTuk with this clearly crazy guy who was dancing around at the front of his TukTuk, with no hands on the handles and clearly not looking at the roads. We definitely missed being in control of the TukTuk at that point and certainly missed Greta!
We arrived at Bucket List Hostel, a cool looking place on the edge of the Backwaters and checked in. We met Lily from San Diego, and we all fancied going out for some food close by, so walked along the edge of the Backwaters to a row of little shops. Unfortunately, they were more breakfast places, so we ended up just grabbing some samosas and other things from a tiny place run by and old husband and wife, and the food was really nice. We went back to the hostel and chilled for an hour before we three decided that we should go to the beach for sunset. We jumped in a Tuktuk and made our way there, not expecting amazing things as we’d just had some really special beaches in Sri Lanka, but there was barely any litter, the sand was soft and white and it was surprisingly beautiful. We of course went for a swim and the water was gorgeous, if a little rough. We just chilled here for an hour getting some good tips for the west coast of America from Lily and getting to know her a bit more. She was between jobs so took a month to come to India. Lily was on the hunt for a beer, so we managed to find one but we didn’t feel like one after the day we’d had, so we all had the classic chat about each other’s countries...and if course the conversation came onto both Trump and Brexit - enough said!
We all went back to the beach for sunset, the sun disappearing into the haze on the horizon. We were all hungry, so we decided to try out a recommended place in town which was a couple of kilometres away. The walk was interesting, seeing our first part of a classic Indian street, everything and anything being sold. Annoyingly when we got to the place it had run out of curry! Luckily we had another one to go to which did have curry, so we got rice, curry, naan all for £1.45 each. Exhausted and stuffed, we jumped in a Tuktuk back to the hostel for some well needed sleep. We got back to find a Finnish guy and Australian girl torn between going further south or doing the backwater tour that we had booked onto. They were doing rock, paper, scissors to decide and then changing their minds, so Tom and I helped them by setting out the pros and cons. Eventually they decided to do the canoeing tour. We all went to bed, hoping that the dangerously low ceiling fan wouldn’t cause anyone damage in the middle of the night. It had been a hectic first day in India, but so far we loved it!Okumaya devam et
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- Gün 30
- 4 Şubat 2020 Salı
- ⛅ 32 °C
- Yükseklik: 20 m
Sri LankaKimbulapitiya7°12’18” N 79°54’40” E
Kalpitiya —> Negombo

We got up nice and early as we were leaving for Negombo and the airport today. As we’d packed up the previous night, it was pretty relaxed and we had time to do a bit of the blog before we left. As we checked out, we were chatting to the owner and our neighbour about all sorts and he asked us if we had everything, and we gave back a confident ‘yes’. We set on our way with some bakery items we got yesterday and headed south, with Tom driving the first stint. We were blasting music out, without a care in the world when Tom stopped and asked if we had our flip flops...we searched the Tuktuk but nothing. We’d bloody left them - unbelievable!!!
Today was Sri Lankan Independence Day, from the British in 1948, and pretty much every house and car and Tuktuk we went past had a flag on it. It was a 145km drive from Kalpitiya to Negombo, so we split the journey in half and I took over after 75km. We weren’t allowed on the major motorways or the till road in a Tuktuk, so we set Google Maps to avoid these and continued. For whatever reason the route we took seemed to avoid all major roads, including the main coastal route which we were ok to go down. Still, it got us off the busy road and before long, we were in the outskirts of Negombo trying to find our accommodation. It was like a maze and narrow roads, and the heat was getting to me, so I threw in the towel and Tom took over the last 5km with me navigating.
We eventually got to the guesthouse and dumped our bags. The lady was really nice and we paid her there and then so we knew how much money we had for the rest of the evening. We went into Negombo to the beach front as we needed to get ourselves a Lion Beer - our first one here! We were looking around for ages, and the first couple of places we went were all sold out. So we ended up going to a hotel and they said we could have one, and if anyone asked we were staying there. We sat outside overlooking the beach with a cold beer at the end of our Sri Lanka adventure, sad to leave but ready to get going in India. I FaceTimed my dad who was out in Portugal, was nice to hear I’ve inspired him and Kate to book flights to Sri Lanka next January (hopefully the blog comes in handy). We jumped back in the Tuktuk and went to find Hangover Hostel where we were due to hand back Greta, truly a sad moment as she’ been such a reliable gal and we’d clocked up some 1250 miles in her around Sri Lanka. We grabbed some takeaway Kottu and some other bits to try and use up the last of our cash as we planned to Uber to the guesthouse from town and to the airport the following morning. Whilst at the handover point, we got a couple of print outs of our passports, cheekily for free, and went out to the main road to get an Uber...sounded so simple in theory.
We requested a ride and were quickly accepted, but the guy rang us and said he was at the airport and wasn’t going to leave, so he cancelled. We then got another thug who accepted, but he started texting us saying that he was also at the airport and had queued up for hours and wasn’t going to come get us. It was so weird why they’d accept a ride when we clearly weren’t at the airport. However, this guy wouldn’t cancel and wanted us to (which costs us money) so we had a big argument with him saying that we are not cancelling and he would have to. Eventually he did cancel and then we got accepted again BY THE SAME GUY who then proceeded to ignore our calls and texts asking him to cancel. We’d figured out that this must be a scam where they refuse to cancel so you have to pay them when you cancel....so baffling. Anyway, we eventually got a guy who accepted, wasn’t at the airport, and was moving our way according to the little car symbol on the app. He saved the day when he turned up and took us to the guesthouse after an hour of our lives were lost!
When we got back it was pitch black, so we went in and packed up the rest of our stuff, devoured our final Kottu and hit the hay ready for an early start to head to India.Okumaya devam et
Gezgin
Hello!
GezginGlad you are feeling abit brighter -if you can’t shake it do see a dr xx love always 🦀😘⭐️💗🐓