Cusco, Peru

Our first experience in Peru was an interesting one. We arrived in Piura on Loja International Bus where we were met by multiple taxi drivers looking to bring us to our hotel. After some discussion, one driver decided he would take all five of us together in his small car. We were very apprehensive that we would fit with our backpacks but before we knew it, he was loading the backpacks onto the roof, securing them with bungees and ropes. Surprisingly we made it to our hotel, Hotel del Norte, together with all our belongings.
Next day we flew to the capital Lima with Avianca. We felt like VIPs when we landed as we had a driver waiting for us in departures with Roisin's name on a sign. After the mandatory photographs with the driver and the sign, we loaded up the mini bus and drove to the Pariwana hostel. We stayed here for a few nights and did a bit of Christmas shopping in the Jockey Plaza shopping mall.
From Lima, we took a 17 hour bus journey south to Arequipa on the Cruz del Sur bus. This was one of the nicest and well organised buses we have been on, so far. We had to check in our bags at the counter before embarking the bus. On board we had individual TVs, 140 degree reclining seats, blankets, drinks and dinner included.
The first evening in Arequipa we walked up to the view point, Carmen del Alto, to watch the sunset over the city, before having dinner in the best Indian restaurant in town. On our way back to our hostel, Friendly AQP, we stumbled upon a wedding outside the Basilica at the Plaza de Armas. It was a beautiful setting with the Christmas tree lights in the background.
Next morning we had a 3am start for our five hour journey to the Colca Canyon. First stop was Condor Cross where we waited for about an hour before seeing two condors flying overhead. We also stopped at various view points along the Canyon including Maca village where we visited Iglesia Santa Ana church and the markets with the ladies in traditional dress with their pet llamas. Our final stop of the day was at the highest view point of the Arequipa region where we could see various volcanos including the tallest one Volcan Misti (5825m).
The following day we took the six hour Cruz del Sur bus to Puno where we stayed in the Cozy hostel for one night before our trip to Lake Titicaca, on the Peruvian/Bolivian border. After breakfast and gorging on some coca tea to help prevent the altitude sickness, we were picked up by our guide Ruben at 6.30am and brought to the port in Puno. We embarked the boat to the Uro floating island, where we got a presentation by the natives about the various traditions they have on the island. We also got to see some of the amazing craft work they do and entered their little houses to try on their clothes. Next we got on a balsa boat to another island where we got a Lake Titicaca stamp for our passports. Our final boat trip of the day was to the main island Amantani where we were greeted by the host families who speak Quechua. Due to being at high altitude (3950m), we walked slowly with Mama Rosa up to her house. We met the rest of the family and were shown to our rooms before our lovely home cooked lunch. In the evening we walked up to the Titimama mountain top to watch the beautiful sunset over Lake Titicaca.
After dinner it was time to experience the local dance in the dance hall. We were dressed up in the traditional dresses and headpieces by Mama Rosa before she brought to the hall where there was a traditional band playing on stage. Everyone was up dancing and enjoying themselves and we even managed to get a bit of the 'Walls of Limerick' in!
Next morning after breakfast, we said goodbye to Mama Rosa and the rest of the family before our boat ride to the next island, Taquille. There were strong winds that morning which made it a very turbulent trip so we had to stop at a nearer port. This left us with an hour hike up to the main square at the top of the island, where we had an amazing view of Lake Titicaca and had our first site of Bolivia. We then went to another family's house for lunch. We were given a presentation about the different types of clothing the locals wear and the colours depend on what area they live in. We were shown a sample of various colourful knitted hats and bags all handmade by the local people. After lunch we had a three hour boat journey back to Puno. At one point the driver put the boat on autopilot and went to the back of the boat for a few minutes. Seeing an opportunity, Edel hopped in the driver's seat and steered the boat home. This caused great excitement amongst all the passengers and topped off a great trip to Lake Titicaca.
In Puno we treated ourselves to take away pizza from Machu Pizza restaurant and watched some films in Cozy hostel before our night bus to Cusco.
We arrived in Cusco at 5.30am and checked into the Pariwana hostel on Plaza de San Francisco. After getting some sleep, we decided to do the walking tour as organised by the hostel. Just as we left the hostel, it started lashing rain and we ran for cover until it settled. We visited Plaza de Armas, Plaza de San Blas, Catedral de San Domingo and Museo Taller Hilaro Mendivil, which displayed statues with long necks representing lamas. We then climbed up to one of the highest viewing points of the city to watch the sun set behind the mountains around the city. We finished the tour back at the hostel, where we got to taste a Pisco Sour, which is a local cocktail made of egg white, lemon juice and pisco liquor. This set us up for our night of karaoke and we took over the music playlist, where 'Fairy Tale of New York' may have been played to help get us into the Christmas spirit!
Next was the highly anticipated Jungle Trek to Machu Picchu. We had a briefing the night before at the Loki hostel where we met the guides Rene and Jhon. We were then collected at 5.30am the following morning, where we got a minibus to Ollantaytambo for breakfast.
Next we drove up to Habra Malaya (4300m) which was our start point for the cycle. After getting fitted out with our full body armer, suits and bikes, we started our 53km cycle through the mountains with amazing views of the valley. We had great fun cycling through the waterfalls coming over the edge of the mountains and getting saturated! Just before the end at Huaman Marca, there was a big mudslide being cleared off the road, which just reminded us our dangerous it can be in this area during the rainy season.
Next we got back in the bus to Santa Maria where we stayed the night. While waiting for dinner we played a local game called Sapo, where the aim is to throw the coins into the holes of the box to score points. Roisin blew us out of the park with her throwing skills!
Next morning we were up at 7am for our buffet breakfast before our eight hour hike along through the jungle overlooking the Urubamba river. Along the way Jhon pointed out various coca and coffee plantations and mangos, pineapples and chillis growing alongside us. We stopped at The Monkey House where Jhon showed us more coffee and coco beans and potatoes that were all native to the area. Next we walked along the traditional Inca Trail to the highest point before stopping for lunch and a nap in the hammocks. We continued hiking in the heat and humidity alongside the river, over a suspension bridge and a cable car. We finished with a lovely treat of a dip in the hot springs in Cocalmayo before driving to Santa Teresa.
The next day started with some ziplining across the valley above the Urubamba river before walking across the terrifying suspension bridge. Then we hiked for three hours in the rain along the train tracks to Aqua Calientes where we stayed in the Moseq hostel and which was our starting point of our hike to Machu Picchu the next day.
After a 4am start we walked to the gates of Machu Picchu in the dark before the gates opened. We hiked up the 6km climb up the 1772 steep steps to the top of the mountain in the extremely humid weather. After a quick change, we met Jhon who gave us a tour of the park. We learned how Machu Picchu was only discovered 104 years ago by Halam Bingham, despite being built by the Incas in the 15th century. We visited various buildings, all the walls made from granite. The main building was the Tomb of the Sun, which is the equivalent of our Newgrange, where there is a window that lets the sunlight in during the South American winter solstice in June.
After saying goodbye to Jhon, we were allowed to walk around and take in the amazing views. As it was Christmas week, we donned our Santa hats and took lots of photos. However this may have caused a bit of a stir amongst the security guards as they had us on their radios watching us wherever we went. After spending a few hours taking in the incredible views we walked back down to Aqua Calientes where we got two hour train to Ollantaytambo and a bus back to Pariwana hostel in Cusco.
The next day it was time to get ready for Christmas. After buying some Alpaca jumpers at the markets, we headed to the supermarket to do our Christmas food shop. List in hand, we went from aisle to aisle getting all the ingredients for our dinner. Peru didn't seem to do the traditional Christmas dinner, so we had to compromise on some of the stuff, but we did manage to get a turkey. We stayed in a lovely cottage in Sacred Valley, Urubamba for the Christmas period where we ate and lots, watched multiple films and Graham Norton episodes and failed miserably at the 'Big Fat Quiz of the Year'. We were also treated to a firework display on Christmas Eve.
It was nice to be able to Skype family and friends at home, catch up on sleep and recharge the batteries, after an amazing but busy few weeks in Peru.Read more