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  • Phoebe Fox
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  • Phoebe FoxReisendeSE Asia
    Batu caves
    Vegan Buddhist buffet1Roti Jala with Kapitan curryMuhibbah set with pucuk paku

    Kuala Lumpur day 7

    7. august 2024, Malaysia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Even though it's a massive tourist trap, we visited Batu caves today, which are a series of Hindu temples and shrines at the bottom of a cliff, and tucked away in caves. The main of which is up 272 colourful steps. The area only became popular with tourists after they painted these stairs brightly coloured in 2018, and later this year they even plan to build an escalator up which will only increase the already massive crowds it attracts!
    We got there fairly early after a 40 minute train and explored the main two caves and temples. We then poked our heads in one of the three at the base of the cliff side, which was over ran with monkeys. It was quite entertaining seeing the battle between monkeys trying to eat the offerings, and those working at the temple.
    For lunch I'd found this vegan buffet online, when we got there I didn't realise it was inside a monastery. It was like a school canteen, mostly full of locals, a lot seemingly on their lunch break from work and was run by elderly volunteers (I assumed). The food was delicious and very in-expensive. I love going to veggie/vegan only places, as it means have the freedom to try anything without the worry of eating meat.
    In the evening, we found a craft beer bar then made our way to Sarang for a 6.45 reservation. Was lovely to see Lili and Popo again, and I'd already pre ordered, so our food came out thick and fast. I'd got us a fruit rojak - a tangy peanut salad of cucumbers, pineapple, green mango, chinese radish etc and roti jala with kapitan curry - net-like pancake with mild potato coconut curry. This was followed by their signature dish, a Muhibbah set which was a set plate of several small dishes and pucuk paku - my favourite dish of fried baby fern leaves in a spicy coconut sauce. Lili then treated us to dessert before telling us to stay seated so she could take us out for another dessert once they'd closed the restaurant.
    Along with their new volunteer, an Italian guy, me, mum, Lili and Popo got in the car and were driven to our favourite dessert spot, and mum got to try some of the many desserts I'd been indulging in the past few weeks. As Lili was dropping us off, she invited us out for breakfast so mum could try the 'best carrot cake in the world'!    Les mer

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  • Phoebe FoxReisendeSE Asia
    Coconut cake, egg yolk and lotus tart and red bean pastry
    Petaling street marketPandan ice-cream at 11 😁Kwai chai hong street (popular Instagram spot)An assortment of local delightsNature vs cityPetronas twin towersWe were happy potatoes after our potatoes

    Kuala Lumpur day 6

    6. august 2024, Malaysia ⋅ 🌩️ 31 °C

    This morning we'd booked onto a walking tour of Chinatown, so got breakfast in a Chinese bakery then met for our tour in a tea room of a super fancy hotel.
    Our tour guide was a very interesting lady called Jane Rai, who's been doing walking tours in KL for over 30 years, and has seen the city change so much. For our first stop, we didn't leave the hotel but made use of the panoramic view of the 7th floor as Jane pointed out the layout of Chinatown. During British colonisation, neighbours were structured in a similar way, with a police station then a jail next door, a post office and they also widened the roads. We then ventured outside and Jane led us through gorgeous tiny roads and alleys, telling us the historical facts of particular shops or areas. She obviously knew all the shop/ restaurant owners well, as she'd just waltz through a place leading a group of 15 of us into a store, just to look at the architecture 😅 The old post office is now a restaurant which we looked around, and there was still a fireproof safe in there that they couldn't open, but don't want to destroy. Our last stop was an traditional tea shop, which the owner sat down and told us about the place and the role of tea in Malaysian culture along with a cup of green oolong.
    Although we didn't cover a huge area (which was welcome in the heat), Jane was super interesting and passionate, and I felt very well-versed in the history of the place afterwards.
    For lunch we went to a highly regarded vegan restaurant in the area, and ordered a bit too much (a sharing platter for 3 people) but it was SO delicious!
    We then walked off our food, and looked around botanical gardens. On the map it looks like this huge area is completely green, with a bird park, gardens etc... but in reality it was lots of roads with different "attractions". The gardens were nice, but a little underwhelming, plus it was veeery warm so got a taxi back to the hostel.
    In the evening we went to helipad which has been converted into a rooftop bar. We got there just in time, managing to snag a table at the back and got to see the sunset and then a 360 view of the city coming to life with lights at night. They'll probably be the most expensive drinks of the holiday, but was definitely worth it!
    For dinner, we walked to a nearby mall in the hopes of a Chinese vegetarian restaurant which we couldn't actually find, so settled on various forms of potato (waffles fries and tater tots) from a stall haha. As this is a majority Muslim country, most people don't drink alcohol, therefore the malls are packed with people in the evenings, going out for food, shopping or just socialising under aircon aha.    Les mer

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  • Phoebe FoxReisendeSE Asia
    River of light graffitiRest stop infront of radio towerTwo Malaysian staples, Laska (curry noodle soup) and Nasi GorengWe forgot a brollySunset beerBlurry twin towers shotUnderwhelming fountains

    Kuala Lumpur day 5 (mum's first day)

    5. august 2024, Malaysia ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    To ease mum in we were basic and got western food for breakfast (plus the cafe was just across the road from our hostel).
    We walked into town, passing lots of colonial buildings. We then followed the river along the 'river of light', a trail of street art which lights up at night, but was equally impressive during the day.
    When taking a break from the heat, stopping off for an iced drink, mum found a big in the lid of her lemon tea, and if that's not a welcome to Asia I don't know what is 🤣
    Continuing her cultural exploration of the city, I of course took her to a huge shopping mall. On the top floor we found the spa shops and I got treated to pedicure. Then in the basement level, we got some lunch at the food court, then headed back out to go to a park. However we were greeted by absolutely torrential rain accompanied by thunder and lighting. Aborting that idea, we sought out shelter and grabbed coffee until the rain eased off enough to venture outside to find beer.
    Unfortunately alcohol here is the same price, if not more expensive than back home, but we enjoyed two delicious beers in a craft bar. Mum actually got a beer from one of the only craft breweries in Malaysia, Paperkite.
    After a quick trip to the hostel, we found a nearby hotel with a kind of rooftop bar (a balcony) and watched the sunset and city come alive with lights.
    We then ticked off probably the most popular landmark in Kuala Lumpur, and went to see the Petronas twin towers. To be fair, they did look pretty spectacular up close and lit up. We sat and watched the nightly water fountain 'show' which was definitely less spectacular, especially compared to what it was completing with (the towers).
    I then dragged mum across town to the famous Jalan Alors street food market. Lili had told me it wasn't worth going to, but I didn't think it'd be as bad as it was. It was so packed we shuffled along a single file, past hundreds of people. Most of the stalls were meat or seafood, the only veggie things we found that appealed to us were my favourite sweetcorn peanut pancakes (which were delicious) and some mediocre chinese chive pancakes.
    After a disappointing fill, I took mum to the Indian restaurant I went to on my first night in the country. It was a mission to get served as the waiter kept walking past us, but we finally got some food gone 10pm. We perhaps didn't order the best choices, but the food filled a whole and we got a taxi back 'home'.    Les mer

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  • Phoebe FoxReisendeSE Asia
    Nutritious bus station breakfast
    Train tickets here at little tokens!Unreal banoffee waffles and extremely strong local coffee for proper breakfastHainan rice and 'chicken' with purple sweet potato spring rollsHere she is!Restaurants were closed, so we had a cultural first meal together of pot noodle, crisps & beer!

    Kuala Lumpur day 4

    4. august 2024, Malaysia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    My bus was 9 hours long, and I arrived in to KL at 4.30am. Night buses always seem to get in a lot earlier than stated on the ticket, I suppose because of the lack of traffic, but it always makes arrival tricky as nothing is open at that time! Luckily the KL bus station is massive and seemingly always busy, so I grabbed some snacks and killed some time before the first train of morning left. I checked into my hostel, but couldn't get into the room til 3pm, so killed some more time before grabbing a delicious western breakfast across the street.
    I spent the day wandering round KL, doing some shopping and getting a hair cut (which ended up too short aha).
    Mum is flying into KL today which I'm really looking forward to! I checked into the hostel finally, and just as I was about to leave for the airport, I sat on my glasses! Luckily the lady and reception here is very lovely, and she helped me repair them with sellotape.
    I got a coach to the airport, met mum, then we got a taxi back to the hostel. It was too late for restaurants by the time we got back, so we enjoyed a variety of corner shop snacks and beer for dinner    Les mer

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  • Phoebe FoxReisendeSE Asia
    Tide came in so fast, started engulfing tables at breakfast
    I ordered half boiled eggs thinking they'd be runny yolks... They were almost raw 🙃ParaglidingLovely views

    Perhentians ➡️ KL

    3. august 2024, Malaysia ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    I've really enjoyed my time on these islands, however there's only so much reading and swimming you can do. It's also been so hot here, 35°, and there's not a lot of shade, so has been a challenge to avoid sunburn (which I failed).
    I got a midday ferry back to the mainland, with the idea of maybe doing some afternoon paragliding, as I'd spotted posters.
    Funnily enough I was sat next to a lady on the ferry from the UK, who lived in Bristol (St Werburghs of all places) but now lived in India. We ended up grabbing lunch, then I persuaded her to come paragliding.
    A driver came and picked us up, and took us to the flying site. We didn't sign any waivers or even have to pay before we were in the back of a pickup trundling up a winding track of the take off site. Much to our relief, there was others up there too, most seemed to be Malaysian tourists. We waited around for a while, watching others take off, including a kid who couldn't have been older than 8!
    When it was our turn, we got strapped into a harness, given a helmet, a go pro then clipped to the instructor and away we flew.
    Was very calming floating around, with beautiful coastal views either side. However after the first couple minutes, I did get a bit bored as we just kind of circled this one spot for 10 minutes before landing. Definitely not the adrenaline rush you get from sky diving or bungee jumping, but not bad for £30.
    I then made my way to the bus station, and got a night bus back to Kuala Lumpur.    Les mer

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  • Phoebe FoxReisendeSE Asia
    Beach breaky, roti chanai and museli and cute mug of tea
    "very" water resistant suncream which I still got burnt usingDelicious buffet lunchSnorkel gearBlue blue blue seaNext day - just outside our dorm roomSwam with top AND trousers today as yesterday's sunburn was brutalHermit crab and fire show

    Perhentian Kecil day 2 & 3

    1.–2. aug. 2024, Malaysia ⋅ 🌩️ 30 °C

    The restaurants here don't have the best food, and are quite expensive, however being able to sit on the beach, one metre away the sea is pretty special. On my second day here, I went on an organised snorkel trip. It was a lot of fun, but I had no other backpackers with me which was odd. Both the islands seem to be full of either families or couples, as was my trip today.
    We had 4 or 5 snorkel stops at different bays on the two Perhentian islands. We saw baby black finned reef sharks at one, who are actually very chilled out. Our instructor said in the right season you can spot the larger adult sharks, who are up to 2 metres long, but are still very safe to swim with, but not sure I'd be that relaxed about! We also saw a sea turtle between two of the stops. I felt bad for the poor turtle, as other boats also stopped so it was pretty crowded and the turtle got surrounded.
    We got dropped off for lunch at a local buffet which was some of the best food I've had here and then made a few more snorkel stops. I got to see fish that Nemo and Dory as based off, and lots of other colourful creatures. The only sad thing was that there wasn't actually much coral which was alive, in some spots the sea floor was covered in bleached coral shrapnel.
    Despite wearing SPF 100 waterproof suncream, my legs still managed to get very burnt!
    The next day, had a very chilled out morning reading and actually managed to finish my first book of the trip (which I'd been carrying around for 4 months)!
    In the evening, we grabbed dinner and then wandered over to long beach again to have some beers and watch more of the fire show.    Les mer

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  • Phoebe FoxReisendeSE Asia
    Not a scary signGorgeous viewLook how blue!Putting my sun hoodie to good useLanding beachThe water is ridiculously clearCoral mobilesTree roots forming almost stepsMarks made my nesting turtles earlier in the seasonApparently the islands have just experienced their worse coral bleaching , washed up dead coral :(D'lagoonLanding beach (my accommodation is at the end)Terrible video quality of fire show

    Perhentian Kecil day 1

    31. juli 2024, Malaysia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    I can't get over how beautiful this island is! The water is so clear and blue, sand is bright white, and the island is dappled with dense green jungle.
    I "hiked" around the island today, walking 20-40 minutes through the jungle, stopping off at different beaches along the way. I initially walked up to a lighthouse, and was greeted with a gorgeous view at the top. On the way up, I got scared to death by an angry monkey jumping down from a tree bearing it's teeth at me, I hadn't heard it with music blasting in my earphones, so was quite a shock 😅
    I visited romantic beach, adam and eve beach, turtle beach and d'lagoon beach, stopping off at each one for a swim or a read my book for an hour or so. I'd ordered a sandwich at breakfast which I had for lunch, and then the last beach I ended up on had some accommodation with a bar where I could grab a drink.
    Unbeknownst to me, boats stopped running as the sun started to set or when the tide got too low. It was an hour walk back to my dorm, I attempted walking back twice, the first time I lost the path and had to retrace my steps to the beach and the second attempt I ended up on the other side of the island on a different beach.
    Luckily I found someone to give me a boat ride back before it got dark, as at one point I thought I was going to end up lost in the jungle at night haha.
    I'd made friends with the one other girl in my room, who was learning to dive at the diving school. She's actually from Malaysia herself, from a city called Ipoh but working and living in Kuala Lumpur, and over here for just a week on holiday and to get her dive qualification. We met up with one of her fellow divers and wandered 10 minutes across to the other side of Kecil, to long beach and grabbed dinner. Local guys on the island perform a fire show every night to entertain tourists, which we watched with delight but also a little fear as it was evident they weren't professionals and had some close calls with the fire. One of the boys juggling with these fire sticks can't have been much older than 12 which was slightly terrifying to watch!    Les mer

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  • Phoebe FoxReisendeSE Asia
    Sleeper train tickets were sold out way in advance, but plenty of leg room here
    Jump scare from scarecrowTrain viewsBumpy ferry ride over to KecilIsland looks like a postcard!Sand is almost as white as my feet!Long beach

    Gemas ➡️ Perhentian Islands

    30. juli 2024, Malaysia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    I arrived into Gemas around midnight and then had an hour wait til my next train. I'd heard from some people I'd met in hostels previously about this jungle train line that goes up through the jungles in the north east of Malaysian, all the way up to the Thai border. A bus would've been much quicker, but I fancied the adventure!
    My train to Gemas was three hours, and then my train to Kota Bharu was 11 hours. I woke up around 7am to the sun peaking over the jungle, with misty mountains cowering in the distance. It was a pretty cool view and would change from deep jungle, to small villages, to limestone cliffs to palm tree plantations. Definitely more exciting than a coach, plus I was able to sleep better as the train didn't rock side to side like a sleeper bus does.
    I then got an hour taxi down to the nearest jetty in a town called Besut, and was able to get on the next speed boat over to the islands in no time. There's two Islands which make up the 'Perhentian islands', Besu and Kecil. I'd opted to stay on the slightly smaller island, Kecil, as I'd read it was a bit more backpacker friendly. The boat was only 40 minutes, then I walked down the jetty to my accommodation which was a dorm room in a diving school. The accommodation here is crazy expensive when I was doing some research, this was one of the cheapest options and still £17 a night, compared to most hostel dorms which are £5-7.
    I was nearly persuaded by one of the dive instructors to sign up to do my three-day open water scuba diving qualification. Which is something I have been thinking more and more about doing. However after going for a swim and thinking about it, I decided to leave it as I just wanted to properly chill out.
    I walked just 10 minutes to the other side of the island, where the main beach was. The sand was packed with restaurants and plastic chairs lit up with string lights. I got some very mediocre fried rice, which initially came out with chicken in, before heading back.    Les mer

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  • Phoebe FoxReisendeSE Asia
    Signed my name on the volunteer wall. Of course drew a little picture of my favourite dessert too!
    Spot of graffitiSri Maja Mariamman templeCrazy they have these gorgeous temples surrounded by huge skyscrapersBook xcess store built in an old theatreBao bun snackCoffee stopDowntown ChinatownI think some of best sushi I've ever had

    Kuala Lumpur day 2/ ➡️ Gemas

    29. juli 2024, Malaysia ⋅ ☁️ 33 °C

    I had such an amazing time volunteering with Lili and Popo! I felt very lucky I was able to stay an extra week. I don't think I've ever eaten as well as I did the last couple weeks, and got to try food and visit places only a local could find. I got treated like family, and felt so at home!
    I packed up and safely said goodbye to Sarang cookery and Lili and Popo this morning, then had a free day in Kuala Lumpur to explore before an evening train.
    I visited a very beautiful Hindi temple, found a huge book shop built in an old theatre and did a bit of street art spotting and snack stopping. For dinner, I went back to the vegan Japanese restaurant we had been to earlier in the week because it was just so good, and demolished a few plates of sushi.
    I then got myself to central station and hopped on a 9pm train to a southern city to Gemas.    Les mer

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  • Phoebe FoxReisendeSE Asia
    Just get handed snacks on shift
    Bitter melon (top)Morning farmer's marketGiant plantainsDelicious Malaysian pancakesCrispy on the outside, then filled with ground peanuts, sugar, bit of butter and sometimes sweetcornRoti tissue for breaky, crispy roti covered in condensed milk!The durian manGetting the best dealMy mish mash cookingFinal dessert 😢

    KL voluteering day 8, 9 & 10

    26.–28. jul. 2024, Malaysia ⋅ ☁️ 33 °C

    Another few days volunteering. I got taken to a new market and breakfast spot and we continued our tradition of eating too many desserts. At a vegetable market Lili asked me if I wanted to buy any fruit or veg that I hadn't tried yet. I handed her what turned out to be a bitter melon (not a sweet melon, more like a squash) and was VERY bitter, even when expertly cooked up by Popo with lots of garlic and soy 😅
    One evening the two retired sisters who live next door, knocked saying the durian man was parked down the street, and that he sells very good, very cheap durian. Me and Lili followed these two little old ladies down the street with Popo in tow, bought some durian and sat round eating it. It wasn't that good. Was actually worse than the first time I tried it, more sour! I think one of the neighbour ladies had dementia, so she kept asking me the same questions (which I didn't mind at all), but then she kept getting me to try the durian even though I said I had already 🤣
    Another evening I found some halloumi in a shop, which is one of the foods I've been missing a lot. Was £5 for a little block! But was so worth it, I cooked it up along with something resembling tabbouleh and an aubergine stew.
    I could stay here with Lili and Popo forever, and did consider staying an extra week before mum get's here, but think I should get back in the swing of travelling, don't want to get too comfortable. Plus there's some beautiful looking islands I want to go visit.
    On my final night, Popo cooked us up some delicious noodles and then we went for one final dessert ❤️    Les mer

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