SE Asia

3月 - 6月 2024
Food, thoughts and photos もっと詳しく
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  • 84日間
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  • 159海里
  • 174キロ
  • 日67

    Sapa day 1

    5月16日, ベトナム ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Had a very chill rest day today. Got into Sapa around 2am this morning. Even though I had barely done any exercise the last four days, I was still exhausted! Especially mentally after all the socialising aha, so a day of nothing was much needed.
    I stayed in bed as long as I could until my stomach started grumbling and I ventured into town to the most adorable little vegan cafe. It had a bookshelf and the whole place was decorated like a fancy office, with little lamps at the table and post-it notes covering the walls. I had some very delicious food and was thinking about heading off before I heard a little bell. Then spotted a tiny kitten running around the corner of the cafe. I lured it over using the string from my hoodie, and played with her for a bit before she clambered onto my lap and promptly fell asleep. She was soooo cute, I couldn't move my arm. I happily sat there for over 2 hours, the kitten would wake up every 30 minutes or so, play with my hoodie for a bit, hop up onto the table and drink some of my tea! Then get comfortable on my lap and have another snooze. Was the best afternoon.
    I reluctantly then left the kittens to play in peace, and wandered round the centre of Sapa for a bit. It was so foggy there wasn't actually a lot to see, so I found a cafe to people-watch and get an egg mayo sandwich (deeeelish).
    It started to get dark, so I went to find yet another cafe to grab some coffee. I had seen on the Google reviews of this place that the owner had rescues cat and dogs. I was not disappointed when I go there. There was a huge fluffy sorta Alsatian passed out on the ground, a little french bulldog and a mutt dog sauntering around the place. I had a very delicious egg coffee, before the french bulldog decided my lap looked like a good nap spot and she plonked herself down. I don't think I've ever heard a dog snore so loud! But she was a good lap warmer.
    I grabbed some food in the evening (terrible garlic bread & pasta), the met some of the people from Ha Giang for a few drinks. I learnt how to play the card version of monopoly! And practiced my very rusty pool skills. We've arranged to do a hike tomorrow morning, so have an early start!
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  • 日66

    Ha Giang day 4/ ➡️ Sapa

    5月15日, ベトナム ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Sadly was our last day on the loop today! :(
    First stop was only a short ride away, Kien made us walk up hundreds of steps to a cave. Although it was a bit rainy, was still somehow so humid and absolutely no breeze! Was a bit of a shock to the system doing exercise after three days of sitting all day, but was good for us!
    The cave was also pretty cool, in the lower section of the cave we had to crouch and shuffle down the slope to avoid hitting our heads on stalactites.
    We drove down through the valley, having a coffee at the bottom before a longer drive to lunch. We timed it miraculously, as soon as we sat down for lunch the heavens opened up and it started absolutely chucking it down!
    We suited and booted head to toe in waterproofs before stepping outside. I had my raincoat on with a poncho on top, waterproof trousers on and plastic bags around my shoes! It was a good look.
    The afternoon stretch of roads were mostly ones we had already driven on the first day, but what made it cool was that there was so much fog, it made the roads seem completely different! At some points the fog was so dense you could only see a few metres ahead, then after going round the corner the visibility would completely clear up. You could see the clouds rolling through the valley and mountains, so it was pretty magical.
    At one point Danny started cheering, I looked ahead and there was a huge waterfall by the side of the road. We all hopped off and there were people running under the waterfall, everyone was giddy with excitement. The heavy rain earlier on had made the waterfall huge, something I don't think even the drivers see often as they were equally excited, running about and taking photos. All the waterproof gear wasn't enough for the downpour from the waterfall as I stood underneath to take photos. Was so worth it though.
    On the last stretch I learnt that we were really close to the village where Danny lives with his grandmother, girlfriend and 3-month old baby! His village is home to only 60 families, all apart of the Huong people. Was cool to learn about his family and culture, he said he was going to drive there for a few hours after we finished.
    We had a final coffee stop before an hour ride back the hostel. We said goodbye to all our lovely drivers and to our gem of a leader Kien. We were all so sad it was over was also exhausted. I had a nap on my rucksack in the hostel lobby, before heading out with some of the group for pizza. Was actually the best pizza I've had since being away! Reminded me of a pizza you'd buy in the supermarket, then put your own toppings on, but was very tasty.
    In the evening, half of us then boarded a night bus which was taking us to Sapa!
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  • 日65

    Ha Giang loop day 3

    5月14日, ベトナム ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    This morning our leader Kien made sure we set off nice and early which caused a few grumbles in the group. However we were all so thankful, as when we arrived at Du Gia waterfall, no one else was there apart from one 8 year old Vietnamese kid. The water wasn't too cold and the waterfall was beautiful. We were debating wether you could jump from the rocks at the top, and before anyone could answer, the kid throw himself off headfirst and confirmed that we definitely could. He was very entertaining, and was able to scramble up the middle of the waterfall, through the water, was doing flips, diving sideways and all sorts. He lead a guy in our group called Tom up the the top, who was the first to brave the jump. After that we all joined in. 20 minutes into our fun, other groups doing the loop started arriving, and as we left there was over 50 people there with more arriving, so we were so grateful to get there early.
    Mid morning we stopped off at Duong Thuong viewpoint, enjoyed a coffee with 360 views, and walked over some sketchy rocks to get a little group photo, which nearly slipped off!
    Lunch was at Tam Son town, which is where we sadly said goodbye to one of the group members, a lovely French lady called Cari as she had a flight from Hanoi the next day!
    The loop isn't actually that long and can easily be done in 3 days two nights, so we had someone from another group join us as he wanted to switch to the longer trip we were doing.
    In the afternoon we visited Lung Tam village, a place famous for hemp weaving! We'd stopped off earlier in the day next to a field of hemp which everyone thought was weed. However it's dried, massaging, stretched out, dyed them woven into brightly coloured patterns clothes, bags and all sorts of items by the surrounding villages. I didn't really need anything, but bought a little woven keyring to put on my bag.
    Our homestay in Nam Dam village was a little rustic, the walls seemed to be made of clay and weren't quite connected in some places. However it was right out in the country side, so much so we were next to some sort of 'milatry' base which we could hear explosions from!
    We were greeted by the lovely family who owned the palace when we arrived, and given homegrown cucumbers as a snack. Before dinner we were introduced to Vietnam's national sport, foot badminton. Which is basically how it sounds. The shuttlecock has feathers on but is weighted by metal disks which rattle as you kick it. The drivers definitely showed us up, but it was so fun. We played for over an hour, working up a sweat before our last dinner! As usual, the food was accompanied by many shots of happy water, with each driver stating it was his last, before another guy coming to the table 2 minutes later getting us to do another! We were at the homestay with another small group doing the loop with the same company and joined forces for evening karaoke and reluctant dance routines. Our group leader Kien gave very much Dad energy, and was sat in the corner cheering us on and filming, he was very cute. He then sat waiting for us to go to bed so he could put away the karaoke machine, so we didn't continue on too late as we didn't want to keep him up!
    Most of the drivers have families who they rarely get to see, so lots of them go off to facetime them every evening after dinner. Danny was saying he gets to see his family a few hours on the final day of the loop, then goes back to Ha Giang the next day to start it again with another group! A different driver was saying he was driving 3 hours along a section of the loop everyday to go to the mines for work. Being a driver was the same pay as in the mine, but he says it's much more enjoyable even if he does see his family less.
    These guys look after us so well, and even though a lot of their English isn't the best, they're so kind and fun to be around, it definitely makes the trip!
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  • 日64

    Ha Giang Loop day 2

    5月13日, ベトナム ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    This morning, the first stop was a very short drive up from where we stayed the night to a mountain pass to gaze at the Chinese border. Across the other side of the valley, we could see a squiggly line of a wall, which was the border! Pretty cool to see.
    We then drove along Ma Pi Leng pass, and stopped half way along at a stunning view point. Obviously a popular one as there was a wee queue to take photos on a particular rock!

    It was a bumpy ol' ride down to the bottom of the valley, to get to the pier for a short boat trip along a section of the Nho Que river. Some areas of the roads were the toughest we've driven over so far! Our drivers went super slow so it was actually pretty fun going through big ditches and over uneven gravel. We were told the river is normally a lovely greeny-blue, but because of the heavy rains over the past couple days the water was a murky brown. It didn't matter though as an hour long ride on something that wasn't a motorbike was welcome, and also very relaxing.
    We stopped for lunch in a place called Meo Vac. Lunch and dinner has been pretty much the same every meal. Normally a big bowl of rice is brought out alongside a chicken, beef and tofu dish, some veg and some spring rolls. Not the best food, but definitely fills a hole, and is nice not to think about having to plan where to eat! I also love the style of eating, everyone has a very small bowl with chopsticks, and the dishes are put in the middle of the table, with everyone serving each other or helping themselves.
    After filling up on spring rolls, we drove through Sa Li pass, which was unlike any valley we'd been through yet. The bottom half of the mountains were slate grey, and rocky with not much greenery in sight, but was still beautiful. It was a bit of shock to see kids as young as three or four walking along the road unaccompanied or just sat on boulders on the side of the road hanging out. We even saw kids that looked maybe 9/10 carrying their younger baby siblings on their back, whilst carrying bags along the roads. My driver Danny said it was very usual for kids part of ethnic groups and villages to do this as their parents are normally out working on farmland.
    In the afternoon, the sun was out in full force, and I had to make sure to put suncream on at each stop, as the breeze on the bike makes you forget how hot it is! We stopped at Lung Ho viewpoint which was an absolutely stunning panoramic view of rice paddies and mountains. The last hour of the day was my favourite though, the sun was just starting to dip behind the mountains which created a gorgeous golden light, I had a great album playing in my earphones, and it was just magical! However once the sun had disappeared, I was eager to get to our accommodation as two straight days sat on a motorbike isn't the most comfortable!
    We arrived into our homestay in Du Gia village just after 6 and all immediately jumped into the pool, and made the most of the evening light. Fortunately there was no compulsory karaoke tonight, so after food we just sat around chatting and drinking beer.
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  • 日63

    Ha Giang Loop day 1

    5月12日, ベトナム ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    *****have fallen very behind on posting which I'm trying to rectify over the next couple of days!******

    First day of the Ha Giang loop today! It's a famous motorcycle ride spanning 350km in the North of Vietnam, and is known for it's scenic views. We set off around 9 this morning, in a group of 8. 6 of us have easy riders, so we have a driver to ride the motorbike, and then two guys are driving themselves. My rider was the youngest of the bunch, (a year younger than me!) but had the best English. He's called Danny and is from a small village of the Hmong people in Ha Giang province. He definitely looks like a biker with long hair, shaved sides and tattoo sleeves, but is very lovely.
    Today's intinary was driving along Bac Sun pass, visiting Quan Ba heaven gate, sightseeing Quan Ba twin mountains, driving through Can Ty pass, lunch in Yen Minh town, driving through Tham Ma pass and visiting Hmong King's palace, before staying the night in a hotel in Dong Van town.
    First stop was an impressive one. Quan Ba heavens gate is a viewing platform and the highest point in Ha Giang, 1500m above sea level and has stunning panoramic views of winding roads and green mountains, and was enjoyed with a coffee.
    After lunch, we drove up along Tham Ma pass and stopped at the top of the road. There we were greeted by Hmong people dressed in traditional clothes and makeup, mainly kids. As soon as I stepped of my bike two little girls ran up and grabbed my hands, asking my name and where I was from. I asked them questions back, but they only knew their names and ages before they repeated the same thing. They then asked if I wanted to get my hair plaited with flowers which I politely refused. I'd heard about this before going on the trip, in lots of places parents keep their children out of school to get money from tourists. Many parents also can't afford to send their children to school as it costs money here in Vietnam so it's hard to tell, but it wasn't something I felt comfortable supporting. Many other tourists also at the stop were taking photos with or just of the kids, shoving cameras in their faces in some cases which made me feel a little uncomfortable, so I found somewhere to sit and watch people drive up the road.
    I felt conflicted as this is many of these people's main source of income, and me not paying the kids isn't going to send them to school or change anything, so not sure what the solution is.
    In the afternoon it rained a bit so we stopped and put some lovely ponchos on. All the drivers out waterproof trousers on too, which we ignored as most of us were in shorts. But by the time we got to the next stop, all of had soaked shoes and shorts, which was a regretful decision 😅 The last stop for the day was the Hmong (one of the ethnic groups in Vietnam) King's palace. It was particularly impressive as it was just a huge wooden house, however the history was interesting to learn about the history.
    Throughout the whole day we never really drove for more than an hour, we'd have stops at either coffee stalls, viewpoints or attractions frequently, where we could stretch out our legs. My favourite part of the day was driving through Can Ty pass, a road along the middle of a mountain overlooking a valley with mountains on the other side, but we had stunning views pretty much all day.
    Parts of the roads were pretty bumpy, and there was some stretches of the Than Ma pass where we were overtaking lots of big lorries on small roads. The drivers are obviously pros so it's no problem for them, but I did close my eyes for some parts aha. The 45 mins of rain wasn't ideal as the helmet visor got covered in raindrops, so was hard to see much, but it cleared up on the last stretch to the hotel, and the sun even came out!
    We arrived into Dong Van town just after 5, had dinner later in the evening, accompanied by many shots of 'happy water' accompanied with cheers chants led by the drivers. Happy water is the national drink of Vietnam and is homemade wine usually made of rice, sometimes wine, varying between 20-40%. It wasn't the nicest shot but also not the worst , it tastes like rice flavoured vodka.
    After dinner we were dragged to karaoke, which we participated in for all of 40 minutes before getting an early night.
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  • 日62

    Hanoi ➡️ Ha Giang

    5月11日, ベトナム ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Finally moving out of Hanoi today! It would've made more sense to go North to Cao Bang first, as there's some waterfalls I want to see there which border China. However I was feeling so wiped out, and pretty decision fatigued, so a four day tour meant I wouldn't have to plan or think about anything, so it was perfect!
    Hopped on a bus just after 11.30 which took us out of the city onto a sleeper bus. The beds on the bus were double ones, which gave me backs of having to share one on the bus to Laos, so started to panic a little. Luckily I had no unexpected visitors, and got the bed to myself. Was a nice journey, had lovely green views and was only 6 hours long.
    Once in Ha Giang, was blessed by the double bed god's again! I'd never seen a double bunk bed dorm before, was very exciting haha.
    After dinner, I went downstairs just to fill my water bottle up, but then found the hostel kitten. He sat and curled up on my lap, meaning I couldn't move for 45 minutes, but no complaints.
    We set off at 9 tomorrow morning to start the loop, and leave our big bags at the hostel, only taking a small rucksack that can fit on the back of the motorbike. The weather forecast doesn't look great, but regardless, I'm very excited!
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  • 日58–62

    Hanoi day 3, 4, 5 & 6

    5月7日, ベトナム ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    Kath left on day 3 which was very sad. Her fight wasn't until 6.30pm, so we had the morning to grab food and do a little more shopping.
    We got to the airport around 3.30 as we'd both heard Hanoi airport is chaos, but Kath checked in in no time and we hung out before a teary goodbye.
    I then hopped on a grab motorbike for the first time in 3 weeks (Kath refused to get on one)! It was definitely an experience driving through Hanoi in rush hour, and took nearly an hour to get back to the hostel!
    Returning to an empty room was very sad. It started raining so I used that as an excuse not to leave the room and get takeaway for dinner :)
    The next couple days I still wasn't feeling very well so didn't get up to a lot. I checked out of our hostel into another with dorms, and had some great long lie-ins. During the days I just wandered round the city grabbing food and coffee, catching up on errands (including buying new glasses as mine broke a few weeks ago, and then I lost a lense to the sea in Cat Ba 🤣). On day 5 I thought I should do something more productive, so I went to the temple of literature. The temple was built in 1070 and was Vietnam's first national university, until 1779. Names of past scholars were inscribed onto huge stone slabs on top of turtle statues, and there were some nice gardens in-between the buildings. There wasn't loads to see there, but it's an important place in Vietnam's history, so much so it features on the back of the 100,000 dong note.
    I'm finally leaving Hanoi tomorrow after pretty much a week here. I'm feeling 95% recovered, so I've booked to do the four day Ha Giang loop tour, and head up to Ha Giang tomorrow to start the following day!
    もっと詳しく

  • 日57

    Hanoi day 2

    5月6日, ベトナム ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Unfortunately we both woke up still feeling rough this morning :( we went for a very disappointing breakfast then explored a temple in the middle of the lake in the city centre commemorating an ancient story of a turtle and a sword.
    After resisting for 3 weeks, we finally did some tacky souvenir shops! They were honestly great and we picked up some postcards, magnets, Kath got me a tiny metal Buddha and I got her a bigger stone Buddha as an early bday present, amongst other things.
    We then looked around the city cathedral built by the French, which looked impressive from the outside but there wasn't much to look at inside.
    The highlight of the day was a traditional water puppet show at Thang Long theatre. It was a 50 minute show of 16 short traditional stories. There was 10 performers either side of the stage dressed in brightly coloured clothes who played instruments and narrated (we had a headset for English translation). It was an extremely enjoyable watch and very clever and charming. When the show finished, the water puppeteers appeared from under the stage, and I hadn't realised they were standing in the water while controlling the puppets!
    Our original plan for our last night together was to go to one of the cheapest Michelin star restaurants, which is in Hanoi, but we thought it'd be wasted on us, so we found a very nice (though less fancy) vegetarian restaurant for dinner.
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  • 日56

    Hanoi day 1

    5月5日, ベトナム ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Had a slow start to the morning, but eventually decided to do a walking tour as it would take us round the city a bit, but require minimal thinking from us as we are both still feeling quite ill.
    We met our tour guide just after 12, and there was only one other person with us. We got a little brief overview of Vietnam's history, which I surprising knew quite a bit of already from all our other trips, then got shown around the French quarter. The old quarter where we are staying is full of busy streets full of cafes, restaurants, hostels and shops of all kind, with tiny alleys tucked away. It's very busy, and is where most things seem to be happening. The French quarter is less busy, has more grand buildings and designer shops and well as government buildings. We stopped off at the Women's museum, a place celebrating Vietnamese women. It had information and displays from cultures and traditions of many of the ethnic minority groups in Vietnam, as well as the history of women's roles within Vietnamese society. It was really interesting and different to most other museums, which I really liked.
    I could've spent another 30 minutes looking around but we were whisked away to get to train street before the train arrived. Our guide ushered us past the guarded barrier and plonked us down on seats outside a cafe, a mere metre from the train track running through the narrow street. The street was lined with excited tourists sat outside coffee shops, and no less than 5 minutes after ordering our drinks, everyone started to stand us which indicated the train was arriving. It whizzed through the street pretty fast, I think if I stretched out my arm enough I could've touched it!
    Our guide said it'd only been a tourist attraction since 2017, and even though was a cliché thing to do, I enjoyed it much more than expected!
    Our final stop was Hoa Lo prison. It was originally built by French colonists in 1896 and primarily kept and tortured political prisoners. The conditions there sounded awful and the torture devices on display were brutal. It was pretty harrowing learning about the history, and shocking to see the tiny rooms where hundreds of people were kept.
    In the courtyard and another section of the prison, we then learnt how US soldiers were kept and treated during the cold war. Just under 600 American pilots were captured and detained in the prison from 1964-73. Reading online afterwards, there were reports of brutal interrogation and torture in the prison, however this wasn't mentioned anywhere. Despite this, on the whole the American prisoners were seemingly treated extremely well and humanely considering the circumstances. They ate better foods than people did in the surrounding villages, were rationed 3 cigarettes a day and allowed a lot of recreation time. Stories from soldiers after they were released testify to this, and the excellent treatment of prisoners is how the place got the nickname the 'Hanoi Hilton'.
    It was such a juxtaposition to learn about the two very different uses of the prison. It was quite emotional, especially when you think Vietnamese people were treated so badly by people who colonized their country, yet treated those trying to invade them so humanely. The prison information was of course slightly biased, but regardless, was a really interesting visit.
    Later on, after the tour had finished, we hit up a cafe called the note cafe, a cafe covered in post-it notes very popular with travellers and instagram photographers. It was a tall skinny building with a winding staircase leading to four floors, with every single wall covered in colourful written notes. It was actually very cool, and we sat and wrote our own notes as we had a drink.
    The main street outside the cafe, and around the lake in the city centre is closed off at the weekend to vehicles, so was full of people, mostly locals enjoying the space with their families. During the day there was kids racing up and down on bikes and in tiny plastic cars, and now was full of families dancing and playing with kites. Was lovely to watch out of the window.
    We had a very poor attempt at eating dinner, neither of us really have an appetite but know we need to eat to have some energy.
    It's Kath's last full day tomorrow so we're hoping we both feeling better so we can make the most of it!
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  • 日55

    Cat Ba ➡️ Hanoi

    5月4日, ベトナム ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    Despite still not feeling great, we made the decision to move to Hanoi as we both thought we'd be capable, and there's a lot more to do there compared to Cat Ba.
    Our bus was at 12.30 and we arrived in Hanoi just before 5. We hadn't quite booked the hostel we thought, Kath was annoyed but I was so happy just to lying down 😂
    She ventured out for food, then I joined her later on in the evening to wander the night markets. Maybe not the best idea as it was busy and sweaty, and also had a variety of smells which made me feel quite nauseous. But we managed, grabbed a tea then headed back for an early night.
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