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Terry And Randy ClarkeTerry And Randy Clarke
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Since retiring we are trying to explore as many places as possible without rushing through any of them. Read more Bright's Grove, Canada
  • TravelerCanals and Camper Vans
    1
    Day 34

    We Made It Home

    October 10, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    We were up early to get to the train station. We checked before going to bed and the expectation was the trains would be running but at reduced speeds in some areas. They were also honoring tickets from Saturday and Sunday on a first come first serve basis. We were going to be on that train even if we had to stand all the way to Glasgow. When we stepped out the front door of the guest house, the sun was shining, and the mist was gone. I saw a mountain on the islands I'd never seen in the five days we've been here. It was beautiful. We arrived at the station at 7:30 for an 8:50 train. The clerk said the train was running on time, and we headed outside to wait. There was one other person there ahead of us. An 82 year old man from Arkansas who was in Scotland with his son for a meeting of his clan. I can't remember which clan, but he told me the MacDonalds had killed their Laird 400 years ago, so we weren't his favorite people. He had some interesting stories to share. There were a few empty seats on the train, but not many. The trip was as beautiful as advertised, and we enjoyed sitting back and watching. We let Garry and Judy know we didn't need a ride, but we sure did appreciate their kind offer. We decided we would go to a travel agent to book our return flight, but after visiting two, we found out they can't do last-minute tickets. We went back to the rail station and used their free wifi to book our flights. What a fiasco, two one-way tickets Glasgow to Toronto were going to cost approximately 3400 Canadian. When I bought the original tickets back in January, I paid 800 for the two. I read on one of the booking sites to try a throw-away ticket. Basically, you book a return trip with no intention of using the return portion. Two return tickets 1700. I'm hoping our travel insurance covers the replacement tickets, but even so, I couldn't bring myself to spend the 3400. Once we had our tickets we booked the Holiday Inn at the airport. It's a great location you can walk to the airport in a couple of minutes. We found the airport express bus and headed for the airport. We checked into the hotel and decided to explore the airport. That didn't take long it's a small airport. We went to the hotel bar for a light dinner and met some people from Grand Bend. One of them was retired from TD, and we knew so many people in common. It was really hard to fall asleep. I was so worried we would sleep through our alarm and miss our flight. We even set alarms on both phones. I checked my fitbit in the morning 2.5 hours sleep. I was so relieved when we dropped our duffle bag off, made it through security and found a seat at our gate. It was a good flight, we breezed through Customs, our bag was on the conveyor belt when we walked up and there was a Park n Fly bus waiting when we walked out the doors. The drive home wasn't too busy and Di had a beautiful dinner in the fridge when we got home. Tug was so happy to see us and we are so very happy to be home. What an amazing trip.Read more

  • TravelerCanals and Camper Vans
    Day 32

    Two Extra Nights in Oban Day Two

    October 8, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    As our flight was leaving Glasgow heading for home, we were warm and comfy in the Blair Villa South guesthouse. We knew we weren't going anywhere today, so we decided to just enjoy this extra day in this pretty little town. We booked the room for one more night, which was a huge relief. We didn't want to book a ticket home until we actually made it to Glasgow, but it did look like there was room on the 8:35 flight Tuesday morning, so that was a relief too. The Blair Villa provided breakfast, so we had a relaxing morning in the guest house. There was a break in the rain so we decided to go for a walk. We went to the rail and bus stations and found out nothing was moving yet but potentially later today. Scot Rail had a locomotive with a work crew checking out the line, and road crews had been working to pump the water off the roads and clear the rubble from the landslides. The leisure center was opened, so anyone who didn't find accommodations could use the showers. There were quite a few people who spent the night in their cars, hotel lobbies, and the Ferry terminal. We heard the flooding was bad around the grocery stores, so we walked there. Marks and Spencer's and Lidl were closed because their parking areas were in pretty bad shape, but Tesco was open. They were pumping the water out of the parking lots, but there were still a few cars submerged. We were told people leave their cars there when they walk on the ferries. It's not a great surprise to return to. The rain was getting heavier, so we stopped in a small cafe for lunch. It wasn't very busy so the young staff started closing early. Randy helped them clear tables, so they paid him with a free dessert. They made him share even though I really didn't do anything. We thought we better head out so they could finish closing and as luck would have it the cafe was a couple of doors down from the Oban Inn. It was cold and wet, and we knew the Inn was warm and dry, so we decided one more visit was in order. There were a couple of empty seats in the corner beside a woman and her dog, so we joined them. Molly was a very nice older spaniel, and Liz was a retired police officer from Southern England. They were traveling in their Volkswagen campervan and were parked a couple of miles out of town. They decided to walk in for lunch. We had a really nice visit talking about our similar experiences exploring the Highlands. It was pouring when she left for her long walk back, and she let us know she was soaked when she made it to her van. After Liz went, a younger Australian couple with a spaniel came and sat with us. They had a wonderful story. They were living on a 45-foot aluminum sailboat and had spent the last year in Norway. They were waiting out the crazy weather at a marina on Kerrera Island. Normally, they are at anchor, but a few days ago, their anchor dragged for the very first time in all their travels. Their stay at the dock was just until the crazy winds died down. We were really enjoying hearing about their adventures, but they had to leave to catch the last water taxi back to Kerrera. It's too rough to travel by dinghy today. They gave us a boat card so we could follow their blog. We were out of cards, so we couldn't share, we didn't bring enough cards on this trip. We'd had such a fun afternoon, and we were talking about heading back to our room for a quiet night when things got really interesting. Fi and Adrian had just left when three young men joined us. They were in Oban for the Highland Cattle auction. They had taken a ferry from Ireland and then drove around the barricades to get through the closed roads. Two of them put their wellington boots on and walked in front of the car to lead the driver forward. They shared a video, what an adventure. They were having so much fun, and they drew us in. They offered to drive us to Glasgow on Monday, but only if we would join them at the auction. They shared pictures and stories about the hairy coos they already have. Boy, do they ever love those cows. More people joined us, and things were getting pretty loud. Our Irish friends had rather colorful language, and we were asked to tone it down several times. Randy picked up the house guitar and started strumming. Then, an Australian couple came over, and they took turns playing and singing. Another man, I didn't get his name, and his daughter joined us, and he played some Scottish and Irish songs. He had coached the Irish Olympic sailing team and was a part-time professional sailor part-time furniture builder and full-time dad. We thought we should take our leave when the bartender gave us our final warning. Garry and Judy, the Australian couple who were playing and singing, asked if we wanted to join them for dinner, so the four of us went to Coasters. The Irish guys were organizing a party at the Royal Hotel and really wanted us to join them. We said, of course we would, but what we really meant was no, I don't think so. It was a blast meeting them, and they really did make our last day in Oban memorable. It was almost 10 by the time we got back to our room. Garry and Judy offered to drive us to Glasgow tomorrow if our train wasn't running. People are so nice.Read more

  • TravelerCanals and Camper Vans
    Day 31

    Two Extra Nights In Oban Day One

    October 7, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Our flight was scheduled to leave Sunday morning at 8:35, so we had planned on taking the mid day train on Saturday and then the Airport Shuttle to the hotel I booked in the late afternoon. If we couldn't get to Glasgow on Saturday, we didn't have a chance of getting our flight. We found a website for ScotRail to keep up to date on the trains and a traffic site that provided up to date information on the road closures. There were so many people in the same position as us and so much conflicting information. Randy found a Facebook page called Information Oban, and I asked to join, so we watched that as well. By mid afternoon, it was pretty clear we wouldn't be getting to Glasgow. I contacted Air Transat, and they said if we missed the flight, we would have to purchase new tickets. I called our credit card travel insurance number, and the agent told me we would have to get a police report to file a claim. One of us had to stay at the table with our belongings so Randy went off to the police station. It was only two blocks away, but boy, did he get drenched. The police said they don't provide reports for things like this, so we took screen shots of the various online updates. Hopefully, that will be sufficient. We were having a tough time finding a place to stay. Everything in town was booked, and even though people couldn't get into town, reservations weren't being canceled. We took turns going to the different hotels and guest houses. I even called a couple of hostels. We knew we could stay in the restaurant until 2 a.m., but after that, we would be on the street. I was starting to get a little nervous at the prospect of spending 6 hours outside. Did I mention it was raining? I had put a post on the Facebook page asking for assistance in finding a spot, and i did get some very supportive responses. We didn't see anything online about emergency shelters, so we decided to go back to the police station and ask them. It was my turn to venture out, so I cut through McCaigs, a rather large shop that catered to the tourist trade. The ladies who worked there were so nice that we'd been chatting to them a few times for their local knowledge. They'd seen my post on the Facebook page and wanted to help. They also pointed out a man who was sitting in a doorway across from the shop. Apparently, he had come off the ferry on his motorcycle and had nowhere to go. I went over and introduced myself and told him about the restaurant we were camping in. He was worried about leaving his bike, but I told him there was a place where he could put the bike closer to the restaurant. He was pretty relieved at the thought of getting warm and dry. He offered to come to the police station with me, he'd already been there and they didn't have any help to offer. It was pretty much the same response. So sorry, not our role. I was so surprised everyone else was trying to be helpful. The only advice was to call the Council Emergency Lines. He didn't even provide the number. We went back to the restaurant and our new friend Dave joined us at our table. He was a very interesting guy. He'd just bought a Honda Africa Twin touring bike and had spent a week in the Highlands trying it out. He was supposed to be back at work in Southern England on Monday but didn't think that would be happening. He said riding in the rain had been a pretty grueling experience. He had come in on one of the morning ferries and was stuck like the rest of us. I left Dave and Randy chatting and went to check out the ferry terminal. We thought if it was open 24 hours we could spend the night there. The customer service reps said they closed at 10, so that wasn't an option. They suggested I go to the police station when I shared our challenge. One young lady in particular was getting upset that there wasn't any assistance, so she offered to get in touch with the Council. After 20 minutes on the phone without actually getting any answers, she told me to give her 30 minutes, and she would try and have answers. I made a few more calls looking for a room and put my name on cancelation lists. Randy was checking Booking.com every 20 minutes or so, hoping cancelations would come on there, too. While I was waiting to hear back from Ellie at the ferry terminal, Randy sent me a note to check Booking.com because there was a vacancy at Blair Villa South. Success at 6:35 pm we had a room. Wow, what a stressful day. Ellie came back to say she had received permission from the ferry line to shelter people in the ferry terminal. By this time, there were a few people also looking to stay there. I went back to the restaurant and Randy and I took a taxi to our guest house. It was so nice to have a spot to call our own. The guest house was lovely, and we had a quiet night. The next morning, we were able to book it for Sunday night, too. Since we'd already missed our flight and the next flight to Toronto wasn't till Tuesday, there was no reason to rush back. The busses and trains weren't running yet, and the roads were still closed but only in one place now. Guess what. It was still raining, just not as hard.Read more

  • TravelerCanals and Camper Vans
    1
    Day 28

    Longer Than Planned In Oban

    October 4, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    Our original plan was to stay in Oban for 3 nights, but Mother Nature had other plans for us. I have to admit, though, if you have to be storm stayed, then Oban is the place to be. We headed back to the train station after checking out of our hotel in Glasgow. Unfortunately the trains were all canceled and they were putting us on busses. They assured us that if the trains continued to have challenges, busses would be provided for our return trip on Saturday. The staff at Scotrail told us that this happened on a regular basis and that it wasn't anything to be concerned about. It was pouring out, and we had to wait on the sidewalk behind the train station with all our gear. There was a lot of confusion as to who was on what bus, and we were very happy when we were allowed to board the bus for Oban. The bus was only half full, and it had a bathroom, so the 4 hour drive was manageable. We were somewhat disappointed not to be on the train as the route to Oban is said to be the most scenic in Scotland. Randy was enjoying having someone drive him, but I think the single track roads on a big bus were still a little stressful for him. We arrived in Oban and found our guesthouse. We really liked our accommodations at the SandVilla Guesthouse, a comfortable room, a nice bathroom, and close to the town center and the harbour. Oban is a small town on the west coast of the Scottish Highlands with a full-time population of around 8000, but in high season, it can accommodate up to 25,000 visitors. The harbor has a large ferry terminal with ferry connections to many of the islands of the Hebrides and an active fishing fleet. It is known as the seafood capital of Scotland. The harbor is a hub of activity, and there is always something interesting going on. The area has great historical significance as well, with some the earliest settlements in Scotland
    After settling in to our home for the next 3 days, we found a pub for dinner, the Markie Dan. It had great reviews, but we weren't overly impressed. After we ate, we wandered around the waterfront in the rain. We had our rain gear on and our umbrellas, so we were pretty comfortable. We decided to check out the Oban Inn, which had been opened since 1790. What a find, the main floor was a great little pub and they had a group of musicians playing in one corner. Three fiddles, two flutes, a mandolin and a harp. The place was packed but we found a place to sit and really enjoyed the music and friendly people.
    We had a blast our first night in town. On Thursday morning, it was raining even harder, but we had planned on taking the ferry to the Isle of Mull to visit Tobemorey, and we weren't going to let the rain stop us. We had a great view of Dunollie Castle and the Isle of Kerrera on our way to Mull. As we passed Lismore Lighthouse, a tall ship sailed out of the mist. It was really beautiful. We were on one of the larger ferries, which had a comfortable inside observation deck with floor to ceiling windows. We met a couple who were just completing their three week tour of Scotland, and we enjoyed sharing stories. We landed at Craignure on the Isle of Mull and boarded a bus for Tobemorey. The drive was pretty amazing, and we even saw a few hairy coos along the way. The Isle of Mull is very lush and green with lots of hills and water views. Tobemorey was a beautiful small town with brightly colored buildings along the harbourfront. We took a few pictures of the distillery with our SYC burgee and sampled their whiskey. Unfortunately, their tours were fully booked. It was still raining hard, so along with a number of other people from the ferry, we found ourselves in the local pub. The bartender entertained us with stories about his 40-year history with the pub. The rain just wouldn't quit, so we decided to take an earlier bus and ferry back to Oban. The return trip was a little different as we were on a much smaller boat, and the winds had really picked up, so the ride was a little bumpy. The waves were hitting us midship, and the spray was hitting the windows. You could tell people were not as comfortable with this ride. I think everyone was relieved when we tied up to the pier. We found a really good place for dinner, Coasters. I had a bowl of the cauliflower potato leek soup, which was the perfect thing on a cool rainy night, and Randy had the steak and ale pie, which was so good. I also had some of the local shrimp. When we arrived at the restaurant they asked if we had reservations which we didn't. They were a bit hesitant to seat us, which we thought was strange since the place wasn't that busy. We soon understood when 15 minutes later the place was packed with people waiting at the bar. The food was probably some of the best we've had. People we'd met last night and then again on the ferry told us the musicians we'd heard last night were playing at the Royal Hotel, so we decided to check that out. We didn't see anything happening there, so after stopping in at a couple more places, we ended up back at the Oban Inn. What an amazing night we had. We squeezed up at the bar very close to a table with two women and a man. We were pretty much sitting at their table, and they were having a blast. It was Linda's birthday, and her son and daughter-in-law were helping her celebrate. Well, the first thing she showed us was the wire she had pulled out of her bra. She was hilarious. She told us she was celebrating her 53 birthday, but she looked like she was 43. You could tell the three of them had a great relationship and really enjoyed each other. We ordered the girls a round of baby guiness, a shooter with Tia Maria and Baileys, and I asked the musician to sing happy birthday to Linda. He asked where she was from, and he was surprised to hear she was actually a local. I guess we tourists take over. Or maybe since it was apparent I wasn't from around here, he thought I wouldn't be celebrating with someone local. Linda's husband works out of town, but he was coming home early for her birthday, and she was so excited to see him. When Gavin joined the party, we found out they were MacDonalds from the Clan Ranald. Long lost cousins. We managed to sneak away from the festivities early enough to ensure we would still enjoy Friday, what we thought would be our last full day in Oban. We were out early Friday for a full-on Scottish breakfast at Wetherspoons, a combination family restaurant and pub, then started our exploration of the town. At low tide, there is quite a lot of beach, so we checked the tide pools and rocky shore. I found more seaglass. There is a nice waterfront walkway with some beautiful Victorian mansions, most of which are now guest houses or hotels. McCaigs Tower is a stone structure above the town that resembles the Collisium. A wealthy family commissioned it as a way to keep local tradesmen busy over the course of a few winters in the late 1800s. We were told the easiest way to reach it was a Jacob's ladder. Holy steps was that a lot of climbing. Coming down, we took the neighborhood roads, and that was much easier. While we were checking the tower out, we met a really nice young man from Nebraska. He had experienced some family loss, so he sold his house, quit his job, and flew to England. It's the first time he has been out of the US, and he is one month into his travels. He isn't sure how long he will be traveling or where he is going, but so far, he is loving it. We love hearing people's stories. We also paid a visit to the Oban Distillery. What a cool place. The town was basically built around it. The tours were booked, but we were able to do a tasting. We really liked 2 of the 4 we tried. I think I know what Randy is getting for Christmas. We headed back to our room to have a bit of a break before dinner and ran into Gavin. His mom lives on the same street our guesthouse is on. We had a nice long chat and exchanged contact information. We had a really good Italian meal cooked by an Indian chef, then visited two more pubs. We met interesting people in both places and received a breakfast invitation from a local in one. We had to decline because we were heading back to Glasgow in the morning. We had an earlier night to be ready for our trip, and because we had logged over 18000 steps in the wind and rain. As we were leaving our guest house the next morning, the owner told us they were closing for a family function the rest of the weekend. Our street was a mess, water running down it like a river, and the man hole covers were like little fountains bubbling almost a foot off the ground. We didn't want to drag our duffle bag through the water, so we called a cab, but they didn't show up. Randy had his pants rolled up and his shower shoes on, and I rolled my jeans up over my rubber boots. Off we went in the wind and rain. We made it to the train station, no trains and no replacement busses. Over to the bus station, no busses. Well maybe the roads will be open for the 4 pm bus so I bought us tickets. We weren't sure what to do, so we headed to the Wetherspoon, and there were sat for over 9 hours. We had room for our bags, a plug for our chargers, and free wifi. We had breakfast lunch and dinner there, and we took turns going out trying to figure out what our options were. The tracks were flooded, and there were two landslides on the roads out of town. Other than the ferry getting in or out of town wasn't an option. The bus that left at 7 am got stranded, and the people had to take shelter at the local school. It was quite an experience.    Read more

  • TravelerCanals and Camper Vans
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    Day 27

    Glasgow

    October 3, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    After turning in our campervan, we treated ourselves to a taxi to the Uphall train station. The train was just pulling in, and our driver told us to run to make it. He said we could buy a ticket on the train. Thank goodness, that was the case. It was actually pretty slick after a few stops the conductor came by, he even knew where we boarded the train. They must have cameras everywhere. The train ride was less than an hour to Glasgow Central. We were a little early to check in so we stopped for a nice lunch. Glasgow seems like a typical city until you look up, the architecture is so impressive. Our hotel was really nice, the young man who checked is in gave us some great advice on where to go. We found a nice Greek restaurant on our way to the Pot Still and we really enjoyed our dinner. We ate most of our meals in the campervan so I'm feeling quite spoiled. I know it won't be long until I'm tired of restaurant food but not yet. The Pot Still was packed but in no time at all people had invited us to sit with them. Both couples were locals and they enjoyed educating us on scottish whiskeys and all Glasgow has to offer. They also introduced me to Irn Bru a super sweet scottish soft drink. We had a great evening and were moving a little slower the next morning. We didn't have to check out until noon so we went for a walk in the morning. We ended up at the train station and decided to pre-purchase our tickets to Oban. It was a good thing we did because there was some issues with the train service. They told us not to worry as they would put us on a bus if the trains couldn't get through.Read more

  • TravelerCanals and Camper Vans
    3
    Day 27

    Goodbye Camper Van

    October 3, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    We returned the camper this morning. It was a great 15 days, but Randy is definitely ready to sit back and let someone else do the driving. This may be a long post as I will cover our last few days out. We had a great night in Fort William, and before leaving the area, we checked out Neptune Staircase, which is a set of eight locks. We wandered along the tow path and watched a small cruise ship finish the last of the locks. We also saw some really cool small tour boats that take around 10 to 12 people out to the islands. Paddle boards, kayaks, and one even had sailing dingys. We spoke to the captain, and it sounds like a cool adventure trip. After that, we headed to The Ben Nevis Visitor Center and Trail Head. Very informative displays and lots of serious climbers getting ready to head out. There were a variety of climbs from a three or four hour slightly challenging hike to full-on rock climbing and multi day climbs. There is also ice climbing, and the photos were amazing. We took a 30-minute hike just to say we did and chatted with a few people coming down from the first summit. Very beautiful stop. We then headed to Glencoe. The roads were better, two lanes for the most part, but the scenery was still so beautiful. This area of the Highlands felt more welcoming. So lush and green, still lots of drama but a little softer. Glencoe Village was small and so cute. We wandered around and found the MacDonald Memorial. Even though the massacre took place in 1692, we found references to it several times. We stopped at the village store, and the owner said that they still didn't welcome the Campbell's, but there was only one MacDonald left in town. We found an amazing place to park for the night, outside of town, but still in the valley. It was a parking lot for a forest walk, and although just off the road, it felt very secluded. There were about 12 other campers there. We went on a fabulous forest walk and came out at a country inn with the best ever pub. Boots, it was called, and there seemed to be more dogs than people. They were having music that night, but I was too chicken to walk through the woods after dark. We met a lovely couple who were in the same car park who gave us all kinds of information on the area. They were staying for music, but they had a flashlight and a dog to get them home safe. We went back to the camper before dark and had a quiet Saturday night. We weren't sure where we were heading Sunday, so we just started driving. We drove along Loch Lomond, and the sun came out. It's probably the best weather we have had in our time in Scotland. We checked out Luss, and it was very pretty, but it was too early to stop, and we couldn't find a good place to park. We ended up driving all the way to Falkirk, which was going to be our last stop before turning the camper in. We are a day early. We paid for overnight parking at the Falkirk Wheel. This is a pretty amazing piece of technology that uses gravity to lift boats who are traveling the canal system. I believe they said the wheel replaced 11 locks. We watched a narrowboat come down the wheel, and later, a group of paddleboarders went up the wheel and headed down the canal. Very cool. We took a walk along the towpath and found a small pub called Lock 16. It was very old and very quaint. We sat on tiny stools and watched the locals enjoy their Sunday afternoon visiting. Back at the car park, we met a really nice couple from BC who are taking a gap year and shipped their custom-built van from Halifax to Liverpool. They have a year to see as much as they can. The next morning, we experienced our first real challenge with the camper. When Randy tried to start it, nothing happened. The battery was dead. It was strange, though, because the battery monitor was showing it had power. Challenge two was my sim card hasn't been working for calls or texts, just data. I sent an email to Bunk Campers, and we waited for a response. While we were waiting we went to the visitors center to charge my phone and Randy met a lovely couple who lent us their phone. After a number of attempts, we finally connected, and the rental company said they would send someone to give us a boost. I also tried unsuccessfully to get the issues with my sim card fixed. What a frustrating waste of time that was. The couple who lent us their phone insisted on waiting until the camper was running, so we had a lovely visit. They had just completed the NC 500 in their large motorhome and were heading to the Lake District in England. Once we were back running thanks to Kenny from Bunk Campers, we stopped at The Kelpies. These huge metal sculptures honor the role horses played in the development of the area. They are very beautiful and they along with the Falkirk Wheel draw hordes of visitors to the area. We found a lovely county park to spend our last night out and really enjoyed the facilities. For the first time in a week we have had electricity. We definitely wanted it after experiencing battery issues. There was a working farm in the park, so we had a beautiful walk through the fields. Unfortunately, the hairy coos weren't around, but there were lots of sheep to provide entertainment. We cobbled together dinner from all our leftovers and played a few games of cards. All in all, we have really enjoyed our campervan and the freedom it has given us. We had plenty of space, and if anything, we would have gone smaller because of the crazy roads.Read more

  • TravelerCanals and Camper Vans
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    Day 23

    No Ferry for You

    September 29, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    We left our cozy park up early to make sure we had plenty of time to catch our ferry to Mallaig. It rained pretty much all night, and it was still raining when we headed out. Once we got back to the coast, we could see some pretty serious white caps, especially in open water areas. We drove by one of the ferry terminals and saw that the sailings were canceled. We checked online, but they weren't going to make a call on our ferry until an hour before sailing. The wind was crazy and the rain was coming sideways. It was twice as long to drive, but if we went to the ferry and it was canceled, it would add an extra hour of driving, so we decided to just do the drive. We were almost to our destination when we got a notice that the ferry was canceled. Good decision. The scenery was beautiful as always, and we were mostly on two lane roads, so you would think it was an easier drive for Randy, but that wasn't the case. More traffic and less sheep. Also, gale force winds pushed our little camper van around, so it was a physical drive. We stopped at a few lookout points but not a lot to see because of the weather. We arrived in Fort William about the time we would have been getting in line for our ferry. We found out later that the previous days sailings had also been canceled. We took care of a few housekeeping details, propane, diesel, water, waste, and groceries. To get groceries we parked near the rail station, what a lucky break. First, we were able to see the Jacobite Special, otherwise known as the Hogwarts Express, to leave the station, and secondly, we found our parking spot for the night. Once all was in order, we headed out of town to see the Glenfinnen Aqueduct and hopefully get some pictures of the steam train crossing the aqueduct. Wow, what an experience. On the drive out, we could see the tracks running alongside the road and along the shores of the loch. Once we reached Glenfinnen traffic was crazy, we managed to find a spot in the huge carpark and couldn't believe the number of tour buses. It was pouring rain but still there were people everywhere and the train wasn't due for an hour. There were several viewing places, and the paths were muddy and slippery. I guess a combination of all the rain and the hundreds of people walking them. We wandered around for a while; raincoats, rubber boots, umbrellas, and cell phone cameras, we were ready for anything. It really was a fun experience. Great people watching and we met some fellow travelers and shared our stories. We did get some good pictures. After the train went by, it was a mad rush to get out of the parking lot. My suggestion was we take our time, dry off, and leave after the rush. What was I thinking, Randy had strategically parked to get out ahead of the crowds. We were halfway back to Fort Williams before I even had my seat belt fastened. We settled into our parking spot for the night and sat back and watched other people pull in for the night. Someone backed in beside us, didn't see the sign, and crunched the back of his camper. Out came the duct tape, and all was as good as new. Since we were very close to the city center, we decided it was time to find a pub and have dinner out. Success on both counts. Another wonderful day in Scotland.Read more

  • TravelerCanals and Camper Vans
    Day 22

    Fairy Glenns and Fairy Pools

    September 28, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    We have a reservation on the ferry from Armadale to Mallaig for Friday mid day. The reason we want to take the ferry is that the steam train travels from Fort William to Mallaig. Just outside Mallaig is the Glenfinnen Aqueduct. We are hoping to arrive at the aqueduct in time to get pictures of the train going across it. Think Harry Potter. We started our day at the Fairy Glen. What a beautiful spot. There were plenty of people there, but it was early enough that we had no problem finding a parking spot. The weather forecast for today made us laugh 100% chance of rain all day. The funny thing was we woke up to no rain. When we wandered around Fairy Glen, no rain. We stopped at a very small grocery store for a few supplies, and at first, I was so disappointed because I couldn't find anything. I noticed a sign that said "more this way," and there was another little room. More groceries and another sign leading to another little room with more groceries. It seemed like shopping in a convenience store back home, but I was able to get everything I needed, and when they rang up my purchases, it was less than half of what I expected. We went into the Skye Island Brewery looking for a t-shirt for Randy, but no luck. Plenty of every size but what he needed. We came out without a t-shirt, but I had a bag full of little gifts for the grandkids. Gifts for the grandkids at a brewery. What a bad grandma. Honestly, they really are great little souvenirs. We decided to check Dunvegan out. First we went to the castle but you couldn't see anything from the road and we didn't want to go inside so we went to the village. We found a great spot to park and took a stroll checking out the sights. We had a really nice lunch at the Dunvegan Cafe and met a cute little guy from Germany named Tom. He and his parents were traveling in a van with their two dogs. All five of them were beside us in the restaurant, and they were quite entertaining. Tom turned one on September 18. He is quite the little traveler. The next stop on our tour was the Talisker Distillery. This place has been making whiskey since 1830. It's a beautiful spot and the visitors center is really well done. They are very committed to caring for our oceans. There was some great information on work that is being done to mitigate the damage we continue to do. Unfortunately, neither of us liked their whiskey. Did I mention we still haven't had any rain today. Unbelievable we have been outside all day and haven't been rained on yet. After the distillery, we headed to The Fairy Pools. This is a very popular spot, so the Highland Council has invested in a very large parking lot with beautiful washrooms. It was £8 to park there but so worth it. I was really looking forward to this walk and I wasn't disappointed, it was so beautiful. Towering hills and beautiful small waterfalls and rushing water. Crazy winds but no rain, we really enjoyed our walk along the pools. The pictures don't do it justice. On the drive to the falls we noticed a hidden parking area with a campervan in it, so we decided to see if it would be a good place to spend the night. It was. It's a trailhead for the Glenbrittle forest walk, and there were no signs saying you can't park overnight. When we first arrived, there were three of us. I think there may be about 11 for the night. It's very quiet and very dark. We could hear the wind, but we didn't really feel it. While we were making dinner, the rain started. It's pored all night, but we were so grateful it held off all day.Read more

  • TravelerCanals and Camper Vans
    11
    Day 21

    Laundry and Lovely Views

    September 27, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    We had to check out of our campsite by 11, so we didn't think doing our laundry there was an option. Google let us know the closest laundromat was at a hostel in Portree, which was in the general direction we were heading. Portree is one of the larger communities on Skye, and it is very pretty. It has a row of multicolored buildings along the waterfront and many shops and restaurants. It is also a cruise ship destination, between the many tour buses and the cruise ship it was a very busy spot. Fortunately, the laundry facilities at the hostel weren't that busy, and I was able to do our laundry pretty quickly. We wandered around town a bit and ran into Barry and Jill. They let us know we may want to book our ferry in advance. They booked theirs for tomorrow and said a few of the sailings were already full. Good advice. They also told us they had driven around the North part of the island and it was crazy busy. Chores for the day completed we set out to explore the North East part of Skye. We were hoping to do part of the hike at Storr and Quiraung. Unfortunately, about a thousand others had the same idea, so there was no way we could find a place to park. We did drive closely by, and both spots were beautiful. Also, the scenery along the way was stunning. We thought since we were so late in the season and the weather has been horrible, we wouldn't see crowds, but here on Skye, that's not the case. Also every accommodation we drive by has no vacancy signs. Crazy. We still had a wonderful day, though, because everywhere you look, there is beauty. We did find a parking spot at the ruins of Duntulm Castle, so we had a nice walk there. The sheep have been a constant source of entertainment, and today was no exception. They have been everywhere, including the middle of the road and a bus stop. We found a wonderful spot to park for the night, just off the road in a sheltered spot. We had a view of a few other islands, and we were out of the wind. Once we were settled, a smaller van pulled in and parked right beside us. Randy chatted with the young man who said they needed a flat spot to pitch their tent. Four of them are traveling in the van and sleeping in a tent. A little later, a small car with three girls pulled in on the other side. By now, it was pouring rain, and they had to pitch their tent too. They did move on, and we saw them the next day camping a little ways down the road. We had a great night, dinner, a couple of beverages, and card games. In the morning we had about a dozen sheep hanging out with us.Read more

  • TravelerCanals and Camper Vans
    11
    Day 20

    Goodbye NC500 Hello Skye

    September 26, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Today was a big day, we finished the parts of the North Coast 500 we had planned on completing. We decided not to drive the Applecross Peninsula because our campervan is 24 feet long, and the recommended length of the vehicle is less than 18 feet. We feel as though we have done more than enough single-track roads. The route officially ends back in Inverness, and we would much rather spend some time on Skye and around Glencoe, so yeah, for us, we have completed that part of the trip. I would highly recommend it and am so glad we had the chance to experience it together. Today, we started the day with a visit to Beinn Eighe National Nature Reserve. They have a very nice visitors center with information on the reserve and a number of hikes. The hikes range from an easy 30-minute walk to full day hikes to the summit of Beinn Eighe. We chose one of the short easy walks and were able to get back to the camper without getting rained on. It was a really nice way to start our day. Our second stop was in the tiny village of Shieldaig. We parked the van on the outskirts of town and walked in to take a look around. We stopped in a small smokehouse in someone's backyard and bought some salmon and cheddar. The owner was a really friendly young man, and we ended up chatting for a while. He explained to us that the road from Applecross when translated from Gaelic means "trail of the cattle." For many years the Bealach na Ba was only used to drive cattle to market. He said today hotshots in fancy cars love burning their clutches out racing over it. On our way back to the van, we saw a huge tour bus pull in. Too funny it would be like a bus load of tourists showing up in Wyoming Ontario. Before heading to Skye, we decided to visit Eilean Donan castle. We found a parking spot and checked out the visitors center. It was pouring rain and really busy, so after a quick look around, we decided not to go inside. We've visited a few castles on other trips, and although interesting, they really aren't our thing. We stopped for the night at a campground in Broadford, Isle of Skye. We needed to do laundry, we waited for an hour and a half, and the washer was still in use, so we decided walking into town and finding a pub was a better use of our time. There was only one man at the bar, and the bartender had country music blasting when we stopped in at the pub in the Broadford Hotel. There were signs everywhere saying it was the home of drambuie. It appears Bonnie Prince Charlie had ownership of the recipe, and he shared it in gratitude for the people of Skye assisting him in his escape after the battle of Culloden. It started to get busier, and the people parked next to us came in and joined us. Former sailors turned power boaters who were renting a campervan. What a coincidence. There were lots of stories flying around that table and a few rounds. Jill and Barry were so much fun. It was dark when we found our way back to the campervan and was too late to do laundry. We will save that for another day.Read more

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