• Home

    11 de outubro, Austrália ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    After a 4 hour delay in Dubai I made it home. We were meant to leave at 2:45am but an issue with the plane (and a flight slot) delayed us until 6:30am.
    It was a long flight but smooth. I managed a decent sleep. I was awake enough to accept breakfast but not awake enough to eat it.
    Grateful to whoever mentioned the War at Home series at our last Chalet School meeting. I’ve been listening to the books throughout a lot of the trip and it made the long flights much more bearable.
    Penny wasn’t overly excited to see me but she did agree to come home with me so that’s a start.
    Many thanks to my friend Cathrine for looking after her.
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  • Reflections on Wales and England.

    10 de outubro, Inglaterra ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    My trip is almost over. I’m at the airport waiting for my flight home.
    I’ve had a lovely time in Wales and England. It differed slightly from my previous two trips in that I chose just two places to stay rather than moving every 3 nights. My first trip back in 2016 was the trip of a lifetime and I wasn’t expecting I’d ever come back so I wanted to see as much as possible.
    The second trip I only spent a few days in London before travelling to Ireland and Northern Ireland and doing the same 3 nights per place. I still think that 3 nights is a good length of time as it gives you time to explore the immediate area.

    Last year on Norfolk Island it was the first time in a long time I had stayed in one place for a longer period and I enjoyed the slower pace.
    My plans are to always return to the UK if I come to Europe. I enjoy the freedom having a car gives you. I’m not keen to repeat my experience of driving in mainland Europe but never say never.

    5 nights in Wales and 6 in Wiltshire worked out well.
    I had wanted to visit North Wales and Snowdonia as I had missed it in 2016. I had originally planned to be a bit further south in Somerset but found the accommodation in Wiltshire and it worked out well being easily accessible for two day trips to Bath. I was surprised at how much I enjoyed Bath. There was so much history there and it is very walkable.

    I visited Anglesey at the right time.
    Earlier this week they closed the Menai Bridge due to safety concerns. It had been only open to cars and motor bikes but difficulties in enforcing this lead to the decision to close it altogether. That leaves the one bridge to get across the Menai strait.

    The highlight of North Wales was the scenic drive to Llandudno and the highlight for Wiltshire would be Lacock Abbey and village.

    I’m still enjoying solo travel. It was nice to meet the group in Bergen and then meet Cynthia again in Manchester. The only real difficulty I found was trying to squeeze my luggage and myself into a toilet cubicle in Manchester.

    As I’m waiting for the plane my thoughts have turned to my next overseas trip. I still have Italy, Canada and New Zealand on my list. When I come to Italy I’ll come to,the UK. I want to see more of Scotland and I haven’t explored the south east corner. It won’t be until 2027 at the earliest. I need a few months off without any planning as this trip especially the Norway portico took a lot of planning. I did use a travel agent and unlike my other two trips I was disappointed in what she offered and ended up doing a lot of the organising and planning myself. Next time I think I will do it all myself.
    Also I need time to save some money. Norway was certainly expensive, England and Wales less so but having a car meant I was able to stay a but further out of the metro areas and use self catering accommodation to save on meals out.
    I had 2000 NOK left which I converted to GBP. I’ve £141 left so I budgeted fairly well.
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  • Salisbury

    9 de outubro, Inglaterra ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    After some deliberation I decided on Salisbury today. I seriously considered High Clere (the Downton Abbey house) but it wasn’t open to visitors today.
    I started at Old Sarum which is the site of a pre historic settlement and then was used up until Norman times. There was a castle and cathedral there. The cathedral was moved to it’s present site in the 13th century.

    I then went in Salisbury and to the cathedral. Very interesting to see a complete cathedral after visiting Glastonbury Abbey yesterday. The cathedral survived the dissolution process as it was monasteries that had the wealth and lands that Henry VII wanted. While some of the shrines had icons removed it largely remains intact.
    It was very impressive but I prefer the style of Bath Abbey.

    The cathedral holds the Salisbury copy of the Magna Carta in the chapter house. Its one of 4 known copies remaining. It’s historic significance far outweighs the physical document. It’s kept in an area of darkness and a dim light turns on as you go in.

    Then it was time for the drive to Gatwick. The traffic could have been worse, it was mostly steady on the various motorways I took. My car wasn’t able to cope with the variable speed on the motorways, failing multiple times to pick up the speed limit changes and insisting I do 50 in a 70 zone.
    I’m staying at a hotel at the airport. Worth it not to have to stress about getting to the airport in time for a flight.
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  • Glastonbury

    8 de outubro, Inglaterra ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Late start to the day today. Real life is starting to creep back in and I had emails to attend to and reports to read and respond to.

    I decided to venture to Glastonbury today. First stop was the Somerset Rural Life Museum. It was a working farm up until the 1970s and is now within the built up Glastonbury area. There was lots of information and rural life in Somerset in the past.
    To begin with I thought the barn was a church, it was part of the abbey and used for storing produce until the dissolution of the abbey 1539. After that it was still used as a farm building until 1972.

    The orchard has a variety of local apples. I can only assume they were cider apples as I tried two different varieties and they weren’t great tasting.

    After the museum I went down to the Abbey. I was lucky enough to arrive just before a tour started. There’s a lot of stories and conjecture about the abbey. It’s reported King Arthur and Guinevere were buried in the grounds of the Abbey and later reburied in a tomb in the abbey church. The tomb and all it’s contents disappeared after the dissolution of the abbey in 1539. We’ll never know.

    The Glastonbury Thorn is said to be descended from a thorn staff placed into the ground in a nearby hill by Joseph of Arimathea. It flowers in the winter (Christmas) and spring (Easter).

    Driving back to my accommodation I saw signs to Bratton Camp and White Horse. I know we are in the chalky hills that give rise to the chalk horses so took a detour. Back in 2016 I’d detoured to see a chalk outline near Cerne Abbas and been very disappointed. The outline was very faint.
    This white horse didn’t disappoint. I first went to the Bratton Camp area which is actually above the horse. Then I went down below and was shocked at how it appears on the landscape. It turns out it’s been concreted and painted white so stands out very well.
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  • Return to Bath

    7 de outubro, Inglaterra ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Back to Bath today. It was a bit cold and overcast but no rain.
    I started out with the hop on hop off bus. I find these busses give a good overview of the place I am visiting. Bath has two, a city tour and a skyline tour which is through the countryside above Bath.
    Both routes had some interesting information, I did feel the city route went in circles a bit due to one way and narrow streets.
    By the time I’d done both of these it was time for lunch. Saturday I’d been advised by several people to eat at Sally Lunn’s Eating House, a restaurant that serves brioche style buns with sweet or savoury toppings. The restaurant originated in the late 16th century when a huguenot refugee introduced brioche bums to the baker she was employed by. Her French name was anglicised to Sally Lunn.

    I’d not waited on Saturday as there was a line. Today the line was longer but as my day was a lot more fluid I had the time to wait. When I did get a table it was in the third floor and I ended up next to a couple who I’d been chatting to in line. It was nice to have some company over lunch. Her siblings had been 10 pound poms but had returned home after a couple of years. She has a half uncle living in Perth. It never ceases to amaze me that nearly everyone I end up in conversation with has been to Perth or has a friend or relative living in Perth.
    I had a Welsh rarebit bun. It was nice but not rave worthy.

    I’d been reminded that Persephone Books was in Bath. While there were none of my preferred genre of girls own books they republish mostly female authors from the mid 20th century. The editions have lovely grey covers with patterned endpapers.
    They had a special where is you buy 3 books you save £5. I found it easy to choose three books, they look to be cosy reads.

    From there I went around to The Royal Crescent. This is a set of 30 Georgian townhouses in a crescent shape. To get there I walked along The (non) Gravel Walk which was very popular in Jane Austen’s time.

    Headed home via Bradford upon Avon. I learnt today that the Celtic word for river is Avon. The Romans misunderstood the Celts when they were naming places in England so there are 5 river Avons in England.
    Bradford upon Avon’s river Avon is not the same river as Stratford upon Avon’s river Avon.
    Bradford upon Avon was very pretty but it was peak hour traffic so I just drive through rather than stop.
    I’ll see how tomorrow goes as to whether I stop by for a proper visit,
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  • Pretty Villages with Cute Names

    6 de outubro, Inglaterra ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    A drive through the Cotswolds today. I was meant to visit the Cotswolds during my 2016 trip but it was cut from my itinerary when I stayed longer in Fort William so a visit was well overdue.
    The area is certainly pretty. I visited Castle Combe, Burton on the Water, Lower Slaughter, Upper Slaughter, Lower Swell (but not Upper Swell) and Stow on the Wold.
    Burton on the Water and Stow on the Wold had the most to see with various shops, galleries and cafes. I did like the perfumery in Burton on the Water.
    On the way home I passed by the Daylesford farm shop. That was another elaborate farm shop full of gourmet foods. I did get some cheese.
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  • Lacock Abbey

    5 de outubro, Inglaterra ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    I had intended to go to church today but I could not find parking when I got there. While I love the old buildings here and the picturesque country lanes there something to be said for buildings, towns and roads designed with a car in mind.
    So I went for a bit of a drive. Today is my last Sunday away so decided to have a Sunday roast for dinner at a nearby pub. While the roast beef and veg was nice I don’t understand that love for Yorkshire puddings.
    I’m not sure whether it just want a good specimen but it just tasted of fried batter, which is what it was and had no flavour. I did get a bit of a strange look when my plate was cleared but they didn’t ask so I didn’t say anything.

    This afternoon I visited Lacock Abbey and village which is nearby.
    It’s an old Abbey that was run by nuns. When the monasteries were dissolved it was sold and turned into a private residence.
    The ground floor of the abbey is still recognisable as an abbey. It’s been used as a set for various films and tv shows including Harry Potter. As we entered the guide was asking most people if they were here to see the Harry Potter sites. He didn’t ask me, I guess I don’t look like a Harry Potter fan. I didn’t recognise the areas that appeared in the film.

    Upstairs has been converted to a family home. Most of it is styled as it would have been in the early 20th century.

    After I finished in the abbey I wandered around the grounds and then the village. The village has also featured in various period dramas. It’s all very pretty.
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  • Day out in Bath

    4 de outubro, Inglaterra ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    Visited Bath today. I’d booked a tour at the Roman Baths and in order to make the tour on time I booked a ticket for the baths for 9am which is when it opened. I’m glad I did as it got busier as time went on.
    I didn’t know much about the baths before I got there although I was aware of them. It was all very interesting to learn about both the baths built by the Romans and then the Victorians.
    The water is not treated and the baths are not in use. There is a fountain of treated water so you can taste it. It’s apparently not very nice but I was saved from having to decide whether to have a taste as the fountain was out of order.

    The Bath Abbey was next. It’s in the same square as the baths and very light and airy.
    At each part of the Abbey to see there are suggestions for topics of prayer. I liked that.
    I’d had several suggestions to have lunch at Sally Lunn’s Eating House but there was quite a long line when I got there so I kept going to the Jane Austen Centre.

    I’m not a huge Jane Austen fan, I’ve only read Pride and Prejudice (actually I listened to it) although I’ve seen multiple mini series and movies of her books.
    There seems to be limited information about Jane Austen as they repeated the information they did have several times. It was interesting though and when I get home I may seek out the books or movies set in Bath.

    I called into a farm shop on the way back to my accommodation. It was a bit different to the farm shop I found in Wales. It was more like a gourmet shop such as the Herdsman Markets in Perth. It had mushrooms from Poland and capsicums from Italy so not quite the local produce I was looking for,
    I did pick up some local cheese and some sausages though.
    Everywhere is getting ready for Halloween, ther are pumpkins at all places selling vegetables.

    I did enjoy Bath and I may try and go back during the week. I haven’t got the rest of the week planned yet so we shall see.
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  • Books galore

    3 de outubro, País de Gales ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    I could come to Wales and not visit Hay-on-Wye.
    It’s a town that has multiple second hand book shops.
    I visited in 2016 when I visit the UK for the first time. I didn’t have much time to spend there and given I was in the area I wanted to spend a few hours here.
    I had a lovely time browsing the many shops. There are other shops and galleries to check out as well.
    The last shop I visited was Childrens Books which had so many of “my” type of book.
    This weekend was meant to be a Fungi Festival so a lot of the shops are decorated for that but I overheard someone say tomorrow’s events had been cancelled due to the weather.
    I did buy two books, nothing terribly exciting but I’m sure I’ll enjoy them nonetheless.

    I seemed to take a very roundabout route to get to my account in Whitley tonight. I’m avoiding the motorways and taking A and B roads. I did briefly consider taking the motorway but with it being wet decided against it.
    I’m here until next Thursday.
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  • Llangollen Canal

    2 de outubro, País de Gales ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    The two things I wanted to do in North Wales were Snowdon and the Llangollen Canal/Pontcysyllte Aqueduct
    I could only get a booking for the canal for today. As I was due to leave my accommodation in Anglesey I made this a mid point stop.
    It was a bit of a drive to get there but still pretty.
    It took us about two hours to go 7km down the canal.
    It was quite narrow in parts with the canal boat only just fitting through. It was also very shallow in places. At one point we met a boat coming in the other direction and it was definitely a tight squeeze to get past. The boat we were on was quite long, a lot longer than the boats we passed that were either permanent homes or for hire.
    We also met kayakers along the way.
    The Pontcysyllte aqueduct was very high and very narrow. There’s a footpath on one side and the other it just drops off. You aren’t allowed to use a paddle board on the aqueduct due to the risk of falling off the side.
    We got off the boat the other side of the aqueduct and then got a bus back to Llangollen.
    I had some lunch and a look around the shops before going to take a look at the aqueduct. I got a good view when crossing the Gate rd bridge but there was nowhere to stop.

    I then drove onto Hereford where I’m staying tonight. I’m spending the rest of my time in the UK near Bath but wanted to spend some time in Hay-on-Wye to visit the bookshops so breaking the journey.
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  • Caernarfon

    1 de outubro, País de Gales ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    Caernarfon today.
    I needed a bit of a quieter day today so I went over to Caernarfon to explore the castle. The castle was built by Edward I in the late 1200s and Caernarfon was originally a walled town.
    The castle is over multiple levels connected by narrow spiral staircases. The area by the Kings Gate (entrance) is actually connected by lift up to the top level which makes it accessible for all.
    After exploring the castle I went on a cruise of the Menai Strait which separates Anglesey from the mainland. It’s subject to tides and during the big tides a lot of the strait is exposed sand bar during low tides.
    Explored some of the shops after this. Found a cat asleep on some jumpers in one of the shops. There’s definitely a different attitude towards animals in shops over here. Mind you all the dogs I’ve seen so far have been very well behaved.
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  • Llandudno and the journey to get there

    30 de setembro, País de Gales ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Llandudno today. After enjoying the drive yesterday I decided to go via the Nant Ffrancon and Sychnant passes. Again the roads were a bit narrow in parts but you had enough time to pull over and wait if there was a vehicle coming and there would be no space to pass.
    I stopped in Betws-y-Coed for a toilet stop.
    I needed 50p for the toilet so found a small supermarket. They couldn’t give me change on an electronic payment but had a cash machine.
    I bought some lunch and sat in a lovely park. I met two beagles while I was there. These are the first two I seen to talk to all trip.
    I used the toilet and later realised just how expensive it had been - £2 for parking, 50p to use the toilet and £4.95 to withdraw cash from the machine!
    I arrived in Llandudno about 1:30pm and headed up the Great Orme (limestone headland) via tram.
    There is also a cable car that goes up there but only takes cash payments plus I’m not sure whether it was running today as I did not see and cars going up the cable the whole time I was in Llandudno.
    You can also drive up there which I didn’t realise but the tram was a nice way to travel.
    I had intended to walk to the end of the pier but when I got to the beginning I realised it was very fun fairy and a bit of a sensory overload.
    I heard a man calling out the last boat trip of the day would be leaving at 3:45pm and as it was just a couple of minutes away decided to do that instead of the pier.
    We went around the pier and out past the headland. I could see the church St Tudno which the town is named after.
    We also went past a small cove that housed baby seals.
    I walked along part of the promenade and it was interesting to see Llandudno as the Victorian seaside resort it is.
    I decided I’d like to come back and stay for a day or two but would need a chauffeur and porter to drop me off (parking was not fun) and carry my bags.
    It took me over 3 hours to get there and about 45 minutes to get home.
    The North Wales expressway goes right up along the coast. While it’s a nice drive it does cut off access to the beach for a long way.
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  • Snowdonia

    29 de setembro, País de Gales ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    I’ve said it before but the welsh countryside is beautiful.
    Today I went to the top of Snowdonia. The train up the mountain goes from Llanberis. I left my accommodation at 7:30am and wondered whether there’d be any peak hour traffic crossing the bridge but it wasn’t a problem.
    The train up took an hour. The views were great from about the first 45 minutes then we headed up through the clouds. The view from the top was non existent but good again on the way down.
    Had interesting travellers in my compartment. A couple from South Carolina, a couple from Kent, a couple who didn’t seem to speak English and may have been from Spain or Portugal and a woman from Oxfordshire who has climbed Snowdonia previously and was planning to walk down.
    We’d been warned that we had to be back on the train on time there is no guarantee there’d be room on a later train.
    The non English speaking couple weren’t on the train on the way down. We hoped they’d planned to walk down rather than miss the train although we did leave one minute early.
    We had some interesting discussions on the way down with us all coming from different backgrounds. I met my first flat earther (that I know of). Given a lot of of his other views I didn’t try and reason with him.

    From Llanberis I decided to take the Pen-y-Pass around to Porthmadog and Portmerion.
    The drive wasn’t as bad as I thought it may be. It was narrow in parts but other parts it was a two lane road. The views were spectacular.

    I had planned to visit Portmeirion as the couple from York I met on the boat had described it as “a totally bonkers town”. It’s actually a resort and I discovered it requires an entry fee of £20 so I didn’t actually visit.
    The drive was worth it though.

    I came back to my accommodation via Caernarfon. I discovered that it has an amazing castle but I’d stopped at a farm shop and bought some meat for tea and I didn’t have a cooler bag so couldn’t stop.
    I may go back on Wednesday to explore it but not yet sure of my plans.
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  • Anglesey on Sunday

    28 de setembro, País de Gales ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    The previous two Sundays I was on the Havila boat so there was no option to attend church. There are a lot of churches in Anglesey but finding one to attend was easier said than done. The church in Pantreath, the nearest church didn’t have a service today. Others had services either in Welsh or in English and Welsh. 60% of the residents on Anglesey speak Welsh. The Churches in Wales website wasn’t the easiest to navigate but I found St Mary’s in Menai Bridge had a service at 11am,
    The church was completed in 1858 and is relatively small. There were 20 of us in attendance but the church didn’t feel empty.
    I was made to feel extremely welcome by everyone. After the stresses of yesterday it was just what I needed. I met a couple whose daughter lives in Perth. We may be a small city but so many people I’ve met have friends or family in Perth or have visited.
    After the service and a cup of tea I went over the Menai Bridge. There are two bridges connecting Anglesey to the mainland. Yesterday I went over the other bridge - Brittania Bridge. They are actually quite close together.
    I’m heading out early tomorrow so it will be interesting to see if there is any sort of peak hour to get across the bridges.

    I had some lunch at a pub then set google maps for a historic site on the west side of Anglesey.
    It lead me into a forest and I couldn’t actually get to the site. I lost internet connection so relied on my memory to get back out. I made it out without any wrong turns.
    From there I followed B roads around to the north and then west to Red Wharf Bay stopping at various places for a walk and look.
    It was a nice if cold day and it’s lovely being in the countryside.
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  • Leaving Manchester

    27 de setembro, País de Gales ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    Long day today. A few hassles picking up my hire car but eventually sorted it out. Usually I choose a pick up point in the edge of a city. Manchester Piccadilly train station is not on the edge of the city and after struggling to get the navigation to work and circling the train station a couple of times I was on track to a National Trust property. Driving in Manchester wasn’t easy. I had thought I’d be in the countryside but as I got closer it was still quite built up.
    I stopped at an ASDA for a toilet stop and some lunch. I decided then to just head to Talwrn on Anglesey which is where I’m staying. That route soon got me into the countryside and I felt my stress levels drop.
    It was about a 2 1/2 hour drive and very pleasant.
    I’m staying on an old dairy farm in the old milking shed. They used to had 40 cows but in 2020 the milking shed and dairy were converted into two lots of accommodation.

    Went into Pentreath for a pub meal. I think everyone in there had a dog under the table. No beagles though.
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  • Democracy and Canals in Manchester

    26 de setembro, Inglaterra ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    I only had the opportunity to visit one museum while in Manchester and I chose The People’s History Museum. It charts the fight for democracy and human rights throughout British history.
    A bit sobering with what is going on in various parts of the world but interesting nonetheless.

    I then went down to Salford Quays and went on a canal/river cruise. I hadn’t t realised until getting here that Manchester has so many canals. When you consider the role Manchester played in the Industrial Revolution and the need to get goods to and from the factories it makes sense.
    We travelled on the Manchester Ship Canal and the river Irwell.
    A late lunch at a Caribbean restaurant and then back to the hotel. The public transport system is very good here. The app isn’t as good as the ones I used in Norway but I managed to buy myself a daily bus ticket.

    This evening I met Cynthia for dinner. Cynthia was part of the group I had dinner with in Bergen and she lives in Manchester. She met me at an Italian restaurant near to my access and we had a lovely evening chatting. I didn’t break my streak of daily seafood with some sea bass.

    I pick up my hire car tomorrow and head to North Wales.
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  • Reflections on Norway and to Manchester

    25 de setembro, Inglaterra ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Today marked the end of the Norway portion of my trip. It exceeded all my expectations both in the beauty of the place and just how expensive it is, I did eventually stop converting the cost of my food to AUD in my head. An example was the bowls of fish soup I enjoyed were around 200 NOK. Thats $30 AUD. Nice soup but I’d never pay that in Australia. My budget was 660 NOK/$100 a day. Some days I went over, some I was under and that’s eating 1-2 meals/day. Bloody good food though!

    I’m really glad I used the Havila boats to move up the coast. The alternative would be flying as above Trondheim there are no trains. The boat let me see lots of scenery, talk to a variety of people and I learnt much more than I would have taking flights. I’m glad I got off and on though. It gave me time to explore the towns which you don’t get to do doing an excursion from the boat, Thus was reinforced during my excursion in Bodø. The timing to see the Saltstraumen wasn’t the best. The tide goes in and out 4 times a day and it’s best to time the visit with the tidal changes. That’s not possible when the boat has a schedule to keep. They also kept pointing out interesting points of interest Thats we just drove past.
    I do have a slight regret I didn’t travel from Svolvær to Kirkenes then back to Tromsø getting off there but then if I’d done that I wouldn’t have been on the northern lights tours on Monday night and had that incredible experience. If I was doing the planning again I’d try and see if I could spend a second night in Flåm.

    While I didn’t plan it, each place I stopped in I did a fjord cruise, except Oslo where I went around the harbour on the public transport boat.

    The Trollfjorden out of Svolvaer was short but the most spectacular, the Nærøydjord from Flåm to Gudvangen was the next best, it was also the first I did.
    I did the Hjørundfjorden with Havila, that was good although not as striking as the first two.
    I discussed the Tromsø fjord tour last night, it was more of a general cruise rather than a fjord cruise.

    Of the aquariums I visited Ålesund was definitely the most comprehensive and informative. My favourite museum was the Folk museum on Oslo. I could have spent several days there.

    The standout activity though was definitely the northern lights tour. Partly I think because I had such low expectations and we had an above average experience. When planning my Norway holiday I didn’t plan it around the northern lights a some who I met in my trip did. It was more that 2025 is meant to be the peak of the 11 year cycle the sun goes through (although there is some evidence it actually peaked in October last year) and they are meant to be good around the equinox. My plans put me in Tromsø at the autumnal equinox so I booked a tour. I’m so glad I did and it was definitely a once in a lifetime experience.

    I’m currently in Manchester. Several people have asked me why Manchester? Simply it was as far north in the UK I could travel with a single flight from Oslo. My original plan had been to explore more of Scotland but that’s been put on the back burner and I’m going to explore North Wales and then the Bath/Oxford/Somerset area.

    They flights from Tromsø to Oslo and then to Manchester were fine. It’s a bit of a novelty taking flights of just two hours. The flight from Tromsø was almost full. I literally got off the plane and walked all the way through Oslo airport to sit for less than 5 minutes and then get on the plane for Manchester. I knew it was going to be tight with just 50 minutes between landing and takeoff but it was doable. That flight was only about half full. I forgot about the hour’s time difference between Norway and UK so thought the flight was only one hour instead of two.
    I landed about 12:30 and managed to navigate border control and customs without actually speaking to anyone. I eventually navigated my way out of the airport and onto the train to Glasgow. I got off the first stop at Manchester Piccadilly and found my way to the hotel. Fortunately I could check in a bit early as I was exhausted. I was up at 4:45am to catch the bus to the Tromsø airport.
    After a shower and short rest I decided to go and check out the Picadilly Gardens. They looked a lot bigger on google maps. The gardens sit between tram stops and bus stops so is quite busy. There was quite an assortment of people there - young families, teenagers and young adults, some quite colourfully dressed. There’s a strip of eateries along one side and they all had student specials. There are a few universities near by and it seems this week is the first week back with teaching beginning next week.
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  • Alpine Flowers and Snowy Mountains

    24 de setembro, Noruega ⋅ 🌧 5 °C

    My last day in Tromsø, and Norway.
    The weather was good this morning, a light covering of cloud and no rain. I had planned to go to the alpine botanical garden on Monday but changed my mind due to the weather.
    It’s quite a small park but with lots of plants. They are sorted into to different regions as there are plants from alpine regions all over the world. It was a nice way to spend the morning. I don’t have names for most of the plants.

    I came back into Tromsø and had a quick lunch of stockfish soup. This time having a tomato rather than milk/cream base. It was good. I think I’ve eaten seafood everyday except one day on the boat when I had the daily special of gyros.

    I then went on a fjord cruise. I’ve been on one every place I’ve stayed in, except Oslo. There I rode the ferry around the harbour.
    Calling it a fjord cruise may be a bit of a misnomer as we only entered the Ramfjord for a couple of I’m before turning around. We didn’t go to the end of the fjord which I’ve done on all the other cruises.
    The fjord didn’t have the dramatic steep mountains of other fjords but it did have snow capped mountains in pretty autumn colours.
    Coming out of the fjord we passed by a previously super secret submarine base that was built during the Cold War with the backing of NATO. It was decommissioned and then sold in 2011 but after a company linked to the Russian government rented it was bought by a company that works with the Norwegian defence forces and it’s used for military training.

    We then went to an old fish processing factory. It had some information about the life of fishermen and their families in the past. The most interesting item on display was the two thumbed gloves. The thumb wears out the quickest on the gloves and as the fishermen were often away from their families (and the knitters in the family) for months at a time they had two thumbed gloves. When one thumb wore out they turned the glove around and used the other thumb.
    We also had the opportunity to taste herring, halibut and dried cod. The halibut and herring were good. The dried cod is sold in supermarkets here everywhere and while it would make a good high protein low carb chip for dip or maybe in some miso soup, on its own it wasn’t great.

    We then headed back to Tromsø. It started raining and the waters got a bit choppy but it wasn’t too rough.

    I fly to Manchester in the morning via Oslo. There used to be a lot of flights from Tromsø to other cities outside Norway but due to world events and the economy the number of these flights has been cut drastically. I was speaking to a couple from Saudi Arabia on the cruise and they took 4 flights and 24 hours to get to Tromsø. They had a few long layovers and it sounded exhausting. I’m glad I dedicated to travel by boat.
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  • Quiet day in Tromsø

    23 de setembro, Noruega ⋅ 🌧 5 °C

    Sleep in this morning after all the excitement of last night.
    When I did get going I’m sure I saw snow on the mountains surrounding the town. Googling seemed to insist that there was no snow about but it looked like snow to me.

    Went down to Polaria, the Tromsø aquarium. It has a large focus on the effects of climate change on the arctic environment. The effects aren’t great.
    Their fish stock is much less than the Ålesund aquarium. They have 7 seals, 3 bearded seals, 3 harbour seals (Ålesund and Lofoten aquariums also have harbour seals) and a ringed that are a mixture of rescues, taken for scientific research and born in the aquarium. I didn’t see anything of the ringed seal. He is very shy and they have construction going on and he was scared of the noise, spending most of his time underwear. The large bearded seal enjoyed her training. They focus on training while feeding here as opposed to just feeding at Ålesund. Ålesund has a large outdoor pool for them where as here it’s both a small indoor and very small outdoor pool while a new one is being constructed.

    They showed a short movie so Svalbard, it truly is a unique place, as well as one on the aquarium and another on the northern lights.

    From there I went to Full Steam which is another of those museums that seems to exist so the founder has somewhere to display all their memorabilia. It had sections on Sami culture and the the history of the Tromsø harbour.

    I then wandered around the wharf and up what seems to be the shopping street in Tromsø. A mix of high end shops and tourist shops.
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  • Chasing Gaps in the Clouds

    22 de setembro, Noruega ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    When I started planning my trip the northern lights weren’t really on my radar. Once I’d planned where I was going I realised I’d be in Tromsø around the equinox which is meant to be a really good time to see the lights plus they are meant to be at a peak every 11 years which is this year although research is suggesting the solar activity actually peaked last year. It’s possibly my only opportunity to see them as I’m unlikely to come back to Norway.

    There are so many tour companies here in Tromsø and you can do everything from a private tour to a large bus. I chose a small group tour recommended by the people running the Facebook group I got most of my information from - Wandering Owl. They have a success rate of 85% meaning over the season they see the Aurora 85% of the times they go out.
    The Aurora is usually there, it’s finding a gap in the clouds that is the hard part. Often they go into Finland to find those clear skies.

    There were 16 of us on the tour including a couple from Perth, they’ve taken a year off to travel the world. Others were from Argentina, Singapore, US and UK.
    Our guide was from Bulgaria and our driver from Switzerland.

    The evening didn’t start out that promising as it was raining and our guide explained there was cloud cover and rain just about everywhere but slightly to the north the cloud cover wasn’t as thick and that was where everyone was headed. Tromsø has many micro climates due to the mountains where as Finland is a lot flatter and the cloud cover can be consistent. The Perth couple were book on a tour the night before and both they and the company had cancelled due to the low chance of seeing the Aurora.

    Every now and then they van would stop and our guide and driver would get out and check the skies through cameras as well as communicate with other guides to see what was happening. All guides have their favourite spots and we ended up at Kavlølyvagen which was about a 45 minute drive although it took quite a bit longer with the stops. There wasn’t anyone else there.

    When we stopped there were gaps in the clouds and we could see some activity. It was fairly mild at first, to the naked eye it just looked like pale clouds. After a while the activity increased and I could see some pale red on the horizon although that came out as white on the photos and the red is higher up.
    We were experiencing a “crown” which is where the horizon all around you lights up. This isn’t common so we we here quite fortunate to see it.

    We were there for over an hour, the sky changing all the time. At times activity would die down, I’d get back on the bus as despite wearing thermal underwear, ski pants, a merino jumper, jacket, gloves and hat it was cold! The problem with gloves is it’s hard to operate the phone with them on. I have a pair of knitted gloves I bought back in 2012 when I did a trip along the Great Ocean Road with my sister. The index finger on one of them has a hole in it so I was able operate my phone with the one finger.
    So the activity would die down, I’d get back in the bus then the driver would tell us the activity had started again so we’d get out.

    Just as the activity was dying down again they started to get the campfire ready. Sitting around the campfire drinking soup and chatting is a big part of the experience, I think if you don’t see the lights you still get something out of the trip as there are no refunds for not seeing the lights.
    They had just set the campfire up and were trying to light it when it started to hail. So no campfire for us. I don’t think anyone was disappointed as we’d all gotten great photos of the Aurora.
    They were determined we’d get our soup though so we headed back towards Tromsø and pulled into a stop where we all stood around and had vegetable soup. It was really nice but I think we all would have been just as happy to head back. We had to go back to our original spot as our guide had left his camera bag behind then we headed the 45 minutes back to Tromsø. To top off the night we saw a reindeer on the road. He just wandered out and stood there for a while eating on the side of the road before wandering back. The residents view them a bit like we view kangaroos on the road. No photo as I wasn’t in the front seat.

    Back to the hotel about 1:30am. In a few days we’ll get the photos the guide took on his camera so I’m keen to see those.

    From low expectations it turned out to be a fantastic evening and well worth it.
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  • Folklore, Culture and Science

    22 de setembro, Noruega ⋅ 🌧 7 °C

    Late start to the day today as I’ve a long night ahead.
    I started at the Troll Museum which had a lot of information about Trolls in Norwegian Folklore and Fairytales.
    St Olav apparently tricked a troll into place the spire of Niadros Cathedral by offering him his soul but then calling him by name as he finished and thus the troll was turned to stone. There are trolls for every part of Norway.
    The Forest Troll has one shiny eye and blends into the forest.
    The Mountain Troll may have several heads that yell and argue with each other.
    Jotun are the ancestors of today’s trolls. Ugly, knowledgeable and very old.
    The Sea Troll lives around Tromsø and can be helpful on finding fish.
    Mara is the bringer of nightmares.
    Waterfall sprite is a talented fiddler.
    Huldra are beautiful women with a tail. Cross them and they may hex you. If she falls in love with a man he may go to live with her folk, never seeing his family again or she may live with his family, in which case her tail falls off on her wedding day.

    I then went to the Tromsø museum at the university. It had an interesting exhibition on the fauna of Norway and the effect climate change is having as well as some examples of cave paintings of Norwegian animals.
    It also had an exhibition on the northern lights and explained some of the research that is being done at the university.
    It also had relics from churches, both pre and post reformation.
    I finished with two exhibitions on the Sami people. One looked at their fight for rights and recognition as a people post world war 2. For about 100 years the Sami were subject to “Norwegianisation” in which their language and culture was forbidden to them.
    The other looked at their history and culture. They weren’t all reindeeer herders. They were also hunters, fishers and traders.

    It’s been very cold here today. At one point the temperature was “7.8 feels like 1.5”.
    Tonight I’m going on a northern lights tour. I’m not overly optimistic of our chances as it’s overcast and windy but the guides have the modern technology to track the Aurora and the vehicles to travel there.

    I’ll update with a separate post for the Aurora Borealis.
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  • Coming to Tromsø

    21 de setembro, Noruega ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    The boat sailed through more lovely scenery on the way to Tromsø.

    We got in about 2:15pm.
    My hotel is centrally located although lacks a few things like a wardrobe and wifi that is functional.

    My original plan for this afternoon was to go to the Arctic cathedral and up the cable car to Fjellheisen. I realised there was a concert on at the cathedral this evening so went up the cable car first. There is a lot of construction work going on and views were limited because of that.
    It was still good to get a view of Tromsø.

    Upon arrival at the cathedral I discovered that they only accepted payment by way of cash of the Vipps app which is only open to residents of Norway. I didn’t bring any cash with me as everyone said Norway is a cashless society and until today I’d found that to be true.
    So back on the bus to my hotel. I do like the public transport system in Norway. Each town has its own app which provides directions and timetables and if you connect your credit card you can also buy your ticket through the app. Much easier than having to purchase a physical card although I think you can still buy a ticket from the driver.

    I walked past a Chinese restaurant on my back to the hotel so stopped for dinner.
    The food was good although lacking a bit in spice. My Szechuan chicken in spicy soy sauce was barely spicy at all and I usually ask for mild spiced food. Still good though.
    Back to the hotel to do some washing and an early night.
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  • Saturday Drive

    20 de setembro, Noruega ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Last day in Svolvær today. It was cloudy and cold but very little rain.
    I decided to head north to see what the landscape was like there. I actually ended up very close to both Trollfjorden and Skrova. I’m more comfortable with the driving and was able to look at some of the scenery while driving. The landscape was very similar to what I’ve seen - majestic mountains and stunning fjords. I started taking the route as I saw that it took me to the beginning of the e10 scenic route. I then continued down the other side of the strait to Digermulen. There you could take a ferry to Stormolla which has the island of Litlmolla between it and Skrova.

    I filled up the car on returning to Scolvær. That was a bit of a shock. I’ve driven 330km and it cost me $112 AUD to fill the car. 95 petrol is $3.40/L AUD. I’m glad I only had a little car. I’d been contemplating whether I’d drive in somewhere on the right side of the road again. I’d say only if public transport wasn’t a viable option. It does take concentration and you don’t get to see as much as you do when someone else is driving.

    I had stockfish for dinner, it wasn’t as salty as the clipfish from yesterday ut as it’s only dried and not salted that’s to be expected. After dinner I went to the Magic Ice Bar. It’s kept at -6 degrees and has ice sculptures. The sculptures were interesting and well done.

    I dropped the car off and then went to wait for the Havila Capella. I’m currently on the boat, we are going up the strait I drove around today. We had some porridge with cinnamon on deck although there was no discussion about it, they just hand it to us. I got talking to a Norwegian who’s on his was home to Sortlamd from his summer home 30km from Bodø. He is it was a traditional farmer’s porridge.
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  • Skrova in the Sunshine

    19 de setembro, Noruega ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Another beautiful day in the sunshine. Earlier in the week it had been recommend I visit Skrova if I had the chance. It a small set of islands a 30 minute ferry ride from Svolvær. The ferry is free for foot passengers. There weren’t many passengers on board. You can tell it’s definitely between seasons in Lofoten. After the summer visitors and before the winter visitors seeking the northern lights.

    Skrova is quite walkable. I downloaded a self guided walking tour which was interesting but did not include the many photo exhibitions on the island. There are various photos taken by different photographers around the island. They were all of life in Skrova/Lofoten except a series on Myanmar which was set on the stockfish frames. That series of photos was sobering and thought provoking.
    Then there is a series of photos documenting life on Skrova in the past. The tunnel still has traffic going through it but only vehicle went through while I was there.

    Skrova used to be the major fishing village in the area and whaling was also done in the area. Large boats called for fish at Skrova rather than Svolvær as they were concerned about getting shipwrecked coming into Svolvær. Now there is only one fish factory left and that mainly processes farmed fish. The factory has a window so you can watch part of the sorting process.
    The factory is right where the ferry docks. I watched a truck back off the ferry right up to the factory loading dock.

    There was only one place open for lunch (and that was only open Fri -Sun) and there were two choices for lunch - fish and chips or bacalao which in Norway is tomato based stew with clipfish (dried and salted cod). Clipfish is different from stockfish as stockfish is simply dried coc and clipfish is dried and salted. The stew was nice if a touch salty.
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  • Stunning Trollfjorden

    18 de setembro, Noruega ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Stunning is the word to describe today. The rain mostly held off although the temperatures has definitely dropped. I got my thermals out last night. I can’t quite seem to work out the heating in the cabin. It’s either too hot or too cold.

    This is my fourth fjord cruise and definitely the most stunning. Trollfjorden is actually quite small, only 2.5km long and about 100m wide with steep mountains. The trip down was nearly as stunning. The white tailed eagle or sea eagle is Norway’s largest bird of prey and they sit on low lying islands waiting for fish. We saw a couple on the way down. There was also apparently a minke whale around on the way out but despite stopping and waiting I couldn’t see it.

    The sun was in the east and the difference between the scenery the sun shines on and the scenery that faced west was quite remarkable.
    The photos don’t do the fjord justice. The water was so still and the views magnificent.

    On our way back we stopped by different set of low lying islands and saw many sea eagles. I think some where juveniles as they had a more mottled colouring.

    After lunch I went to the Lofoten War Memorial Museum. It was quite overwhelming. There is a lot of information and displays crowded into a small space and there didn’t seem to be any organisation to it. Only a portion was translated into English. It’s a bit like someone’s personal collection on display. They had a huge number of uniforms, both German and Norwegian.
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  • Vikings of Borg

    17 de setembro, Noruega ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    When planning this trip I wanted to find out more about Vikings. The three possibilities were the Viking museum in Oslo (closed), the Viking experience in Gudvangen (time constraints meant I only transited through Gudvangen on my way to Bergen) and the Viking Museum of Lofoten.

    This morning the rain was heavier than yesterday so I delayed my departure by about half an hour.
    It was still drizzling when I left but if I waited for it to stop raining I wouldn’t go anywhere.
    The nice yellow line down the middle of the road that assisted me in knowing I was on the right side of the road disappeared after the turn of to Henningsvær. It would reappear at intervals but otherwise the road was unmarked down the middle.
    I was doing okay until I got to the Gimsøystraumen bridge. It’s easy to forget that the Lofoten islands are multiple islands connected by bridges. I wasn’t expected such a bridge. Going over it was much easier than I expected and it didn’t feel as steep as it looked. The wind was 8m/s.

    The Lofotr Viking Museum is at the site of the largest chieftain’s long house discovered to date. A farmer found artefacts while plowing in 1983. It proved to have comprehensive archeological remains and the longhouse has been reproduced.
    There was a group of scouts there on an excursion so they were cooking Viking bread which looked very similar to a whole meal damper and a lamb soup in the feast hall.
    The living quarters had a lot examples of everyday items such as dried animals, pelts, skeins of dyed wool, shoes, clothing and more.
    Not long after I got to the long house there was a talk scheduled. We were told that if we lived in a warm climate we should not take home a reindeer skin as they will smell and moult. Not that I’d been planning to bring one home, pretty sure I wouldn’t get it through customs. The Vikings traded with the Sami people in the north which is where the reindeer items would have come, The guide reminded us that the Vikings weren’t just raiders but also farmers and traders. The cheiften at Borg was very wealthy. It’s thought that he moved to Iceland due to political unrest at the time.

    After exploring the longhouse I went back to the visitor centre and had some lunch. I had originally wanted to do the Viking feats that is put in the evenings but was told at the tourist information office that they finished on 15/8/25. Probably just as well as I wouldn’t want to do that drive at night. I did get to have viking (lamb and veg) soup for lunch so I didn’t totally miss out.

    There is also a exhibition of the discovery and excavation of the site and many finds and artefacts, not just at Borg but other sites as well. All the information is via audio guide rather than print so it did take longer to get all the information. It was nearly 5pm by the time I’d left.

    I’d initially planned to go to Nusfjord after I’d finished at the museum but I hadn’t planned on spending so much time at the museum and as it was another 45 minutes according to google maps which probably means more than an hour so I chose not to. While I am getting more confident with the driving I’m certainly not relaxed so won’t be doing as much driving as I had thought.
    The Gimsøystraumen bridge wasn’t as steep coming back to Svolvær but the winds were 17m/s and I felt that coming down the steep part.
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