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Italy, Slovenia, Croatia 2025
  • Kirk and Anna Lively and Laird

Italy, Slovenia, Croatia 2025

Four days in Florence, Italy; four days hiking at Vernazza, Cinque Terre; ten day bike tour with friends, San Candido to Venice, Slovenia (Ljubljana, Bled and Vrsic Pass); Croatia (Plitvici National Park, Rohinje, Pula, Motovun) Read more
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  • Trip start
    September 4, 2025
    Kirk and Anna Lively and LairdItaly, Slovenia, Croatia 2025Traveler
    2

    Florence (Firenze), Italy, September 6-9

    Sep 6–10 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    We flew out of Seattle on Sept 4 to London, flew British Airways in a sardine can to Marco Polo Airport (Venice), stayed overnight at the Vienna Hotel in Mestre/Marghera with a delightful dinner at the nearby Ristorante Bar Piccolo then caught a fast train to Florence the following mid-day. Checked in to our VRBO for the next four nights then went exploring to see The River Arno, Ponte Vecchio, the Palazzo Vecchio, famous statues outside the Uffizzi gallery including Perseus by Cellini and a reproduction of David by Michelangelo, Duomo Cathedral, as well as several plazas (piazza) along the way. The city is crowded with visitors!Read more

  • Kirk and Anna Lively and LairdItaly, Slovenia, Croatia 2025Traveler
    The Leaning Tower of Pisa
    The baptistry in the Piazza del MilagroThe cathedral in the Piazza del MilagroTouching the Leaning Tower of PisaWine tasting and lunch hereThe wine tourThe main street in SienaThe city tower and main plaza of SienaThe Piazza del Campo in SienaWhite and green marble in the Siena cathedralAn empty street in SienaTuscany countryside from San GimignanoThe city gate of San GimignanoA tourist shop in San GimignanoTwo of San Gimignano's famous 14 towersTuscany view from far side of San GimignanoThe main street thru San GimignanoThe public square in San Gimignano

    Bus Trip to Pisa, Siena, San Gimignano

    September 8 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    A long day on a tourist bus with about 88 others tourists to Pisa (the Leaning Tower), Siena (the medieval city), and San Gimignano (the walled town of towers) with lunch and wine tasting between Pisa and Siena. A delightful day of Tuscan countryside, narrow stone streets with ancient buildings crowding the skyline on either side, towers representing the pride of families and cities, and colorful tourist shops.Read more

  • Kirk and Anna Lively and LairdItaly, Slovenia, Croatia 2025Traveler
    Our train from Florence to Pisa
    Train Interior1Our airbnb, L'Eremo Sul Mare(the Hermitage above the sea)1View from the airbnb to Vernazza1Vernazza1The harbor at Vernazza

    Vernazza, Cinque Terre, Italy Sept 10-13

    September 10 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

    On Wednesday, Sept 10 we took trains from Florence to Pisa (that was a heart-pounding scramble to find our next train), Pisa to LA Spezia, La Spezia to Vernazza, a search for the secretive route to the airbnb, then we hauled our luggage up a 350 foot climb over a 1/4 mile distance on a steep rocky trail with big steps to our airbnb named L' Eremo (the Hermitage). The rest of the afternoon and evening was spent hiking back down the path to explore the picturesque town of Vernazza, hide from a rain shower, and have a casual dinner at the Visconti Bottega in the middle of the town.Read more

  • Kirk and Anna Lively and LairdItaly, Slovenia, Croatia 2025Traveler
    Looking north towards Monterosso from Casa Valeria
    Grapes ready for transport at Casa ValeriaHigh up on the trail towards Casa ValeriaOur first view of Corniglia from the trailLooking north towards Casa Valeria and MonterossoBlue passion flower along the trailA view south to Manarola from CornigliaOn the trail down to CornigliaA main tourist street in CornigliaReturning to VernazzaSan Bernadino which we had hiked through earlierView of Vernazza from the restaurant La TorreDinner at La Torre, baked fish Ligurian and seared tunaLate evening view from La Torre restaurant

    Hiking Vernazza to Corniglia and return

    September 11 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    September 11 was a full day of hiking. Out the back gate of our airbnb up a very steep path to Casa Valeria, more climbing across the steep, rugged terrain, to the small town of San Bernadino, where the old church rang the bell 30 times to declare noon, on to the trail junction of Cigoletto, where we reached our hike top elevation of 2089', a net gain of 1689' from our start at the airbnb. Then down about 1800' to the town of Corniglia, perched high on a cliff above the sea. We explored the town, enjoyed a lemon slurpee in the town plaza, then returned via the coastal trail to L'Eremo. Along the way we enjoyed the sounds of a busker playing his accordion with the melody following us a long way up the trail, a stop for lemonade and orange juice at a bar along the trail, again, accessible only from the trail, high up overlooking the sea, then despite being very sweaty, stopping for dinner at a nice restaurant, La Torre, high above Vernazza, and, again, only accessible from the trail, for an excellent dinner of seared tuna and fish prepared Ligurian style. Then a last climb back to the airbnb to turn in for the night. Total elevation gain while hiking was around 2300'. Distance is confusing. According to the trail maps, total trail length was only about 8 kilometers (close to 5 miles). But Anna's Fitbit and our hiking time of six hours tells us a distance of a little over nine miles.Read more

  • Kirk and Anna Lively and LairdItaly, Slovenia, Croatia 2025Traveler
    Monterosso in the distance from the tower at Vernazza
    Looking down from the tower at VernazzaLooking down from the tower at VernazzaThe harbor at Vernazza from the towerOn the trail towards Monterosso looking back at VernazzaSteep steps down to MonterossoA stone bridge on the trail to MonterossoMonterosso, half behind us, half ahead of usAperol and lemon spritzers and tiramisu across from a business selling "viagra spritzers"Leaving MonterossoOn the return to Vernazza

    Vernazza to Monterosso and return

    September 12 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    On Friday, September 12, we started slow trying to catch up on news (some terrible news today), Facebook posts, and Findpenguins. Then it was off hiking. Down to Vernazza with a climb to the watchtower through narrow walkways, then on the trail from Vernazza to Monterosso a distance of about 2.3 miles with an elevation gain of about 570 ft before descending steeply to Monterosso. We explored a bit, found a restaurant for tiramisu, aperol spritzer, and a lemon spritzer before reversing course to return to Vernazza where we bought a focaccia sandwich and a bottle of red wine for dinner at our airbnb, L'Eremo, which, of course, required a climb past the La Torre restaurant. While at L'Eremo we met Holly from Pullman, her daughter, Brin, from Enumclaw, Frank and Maryann from Dublin, and a couple from San Jose, and a couple from Perth, Australia. The owner is Marco, a retired defense lawyer, whose family has owned the property for 80 years. The maid is Ina from Ukraine, a very tall refugee who speaks very little besides Ukrainian. Our total hiking today was about 6.3 miles with about 1200 ft of elevation gain.Read more

  • Kirk and Anna Lively and LairdItaly, Slovenia, Croatia 2025Traveler
    Looking north towards Monterosso
    Walking down many steps from Corniglia to the train stationFrom the restaurant: tiny harbor, boat storage nestled below the train tracks, RiomaggioreFrom the restaurant: the trail we hiked later to the ferry dockAt the restaurant on the edge of the cliff. Fruit smoothies and delicious bruschettaOn the trail. Restaurant at orange building on left.Riomaggiore near the center of the townThe roofs of RiomaggioreHeading back. Restaurant at orange building on left. Train station near.Dipping toes in water at Vernazza harbor at end of our expeditionAnna hiking up the steps back to L'EremoNight shot of Vernazza from L'Eremo with the lights of Monterosso in the distance

    Vernazza to Riomaggiore and return

    September 13 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    On Saturday, September 13, we hiked from our airbnb to Corniglia. Then to the train to Riomaggiore and explored this delightful town. We had fruit smoothies and brushetta on the edge of a cliff overlooking a tiny harbor then explored the crazy cliff edge trails that connected parts of the town on the coastline. We intended to take the ferry back to Vernazza, but no ferry service there due to the sea swell still being too high. So we returned to Vernazza on the train, waded in the sea just a bit then hiked back up to our airbnb and had a late dinner, which included an excellent mixed salad we picked up in town. Partly cloudy skies turned to heavy rains showers in the late evening. We have been weather blessedRead more

  • Kirk and Anna Lively and LairdItaly, Slovenia, Croatia 2025Traveler
    Statue of Victor Emmanuel II, first ruler of all Italy (1861) since the 6th century
    Verona plaza , Coliseum in the center. The Ala (wing) on the leftColiseum, seated 30,000. Used now for performances, including opera.Dinner of lasagna, salad, wine, bread outdoors in VeronaThe view from our 6th floor room at Hotel Villa Rossi

    Vernazza to Verona

    September 14 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    On September 14, Sunday, I got up early. Hiked down to the harbor and went for a quick swim then back to the airbnb, LEremo for breakfast. We checked out after a lengthy conversation with the housekeeper, Inya, a refugee from the Ukraine who arrived here in October 2024. She does not speak English so the conversation revolved around a translation app on a cell phone. We then paid a city departure tax of 18 euros, hiked down to the train station, took the local train to Levanto, changed trains to Milano, then a third train to Verona where we spent the evening exploring the city plaza centered on the old Roman coliseum followed by a nice outdoor dinner, Italian style. Restaurant run by a fellow named Max whose mother was from Idaho. Monday we will join our friends in Bolzano for the biking tour of the Dolomites.Read more

  • Kirk and Anna Lively and LairdItaly, Slovenia, Croatia 2025Traveler
    The train ride: Verona to Bolzano
    On the train to BolzanoPart of the Dolomites from San CandidoThe view from our hotel balconyPreparing for our first (checkout) ride

    Verona to San Candido, Sept 15-16

    Sep 15–17 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    On September 15, 2025, Anna and I walked from our hotel to the train station then boarded a regional train north to Bolzano, IT. The 2 1/2 hour trip traveled up the valley of the Adige River, through many, many orchards and vineyards as the mountains became higher and steeper.. In Bolzano, our tour guides for the next ten days, Peter from Austria and Amy from a nearby town (Amy is American by upbringing), had just arrived. Soon our friends from the previous bike tour in Portugal, Tom and Jan, and then Dan and Sally arrived and then we were off in the yellow Discovery Bicycle Tours van for the 90 minute trip higher and higher into the Alps to the village of San Candido/Innekuchen where we checked into out hotel, the Villa Stephania, a very nice spa hotel as well as meeting our friends from Leavenworth. Dan and Tammy, and Jim and Joanne. . The first order of business was to set up our electric bikes, then bicycle five miles through the gorgeous countryside of the South Tyrol. And last, a six course dinner at the hotel, including Prosecco provided by Dan and Sally.Read more

  • Kirk and Anna Lively and LairdItaly, Slovenia, Croatia 2025Traveler
    Scenery along the bicycle trail
    Lumber along the waySally's cow and electric fenceThe Loacher chocolate store along the wayCashmere balsam flowers and a host of fungiA quick bus in Lienz, AustriaNice woodwork at a house along the pathOne of many creeks tumbling out of the mountainsA stack of logs ready for a trip to the millThe countryside along the wayOne of several wood carvings along the pathOur route through the valley, Lienz on the left, San Candido on the rightAbandoned castle amidst the sceneryA house with lots of wood carvings next to the bicycle pathSome Dolomite peaks and a church steeplePre-dinner entertainment at Villa Stefania

    San Candido to Lienz and Return

    September 16 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    On September 16, our group of ten plus two guides bicycled from our hotel, Villa Stefania, 26.7 miles downhill along a busy bike path to the town of Lienz, Austria. While in Lienz, we visited the local castle, up a steep hill, and all but me, spent an extra two hours exploring town. But I chose a different option. I bicycled the 26.7 miles uphill back to San Candido. About 5:30 Anna and the other eight in the group plus Peter saw me pedaling up the path as they zipped by on the train. Got caught in a little rain about four miles from the hotel, but the combination of rain gear and light rain prevented a soaking. Another big dinner at the hotel preceded by entertainment, a girl about 12 playing Tyrolean music on an accordion, joined periodically by a girl about ten singing in the local dialect (a version of German).Read more

  • Kirk and Anna Lively and LairdItaly, Slovenia, Croatia 2025Traveler
    On the trail with Anna
    A lake along the way with swamsSnack stop, our yellow van, and a WWI graveyard/memorialWWI graveyard and memorialScenery on the bicycle path to CortinaDolomite peaks in the background, Tre CimeOur group with Dan taking the photoBeautiful scene of some of the Dolomite peaksThe pass. Now it's down to CortinaBeautiful view of Col Rossa along the pathBicycle path is along a former railroadBicycling down towards CortinaWalking thru Cortina to our hotelView from the top of the gondola platform at TofanaView from the gondola platform at Tofana high above CortinaThe viewing terrace at the gondola station. Cortina in the valleyHaving a restaurant snack looking down on CortinaCortina from near the cable car platform at the bottom

    San Candido to Cortina, Sept 17-18

    Sep 17–19 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    On September 17, 2025, Wednesday, we checked out of our hotel then our group of ten, plus Peter, (Amy drove the van) bicycled 25 miles up and over a mountain pass near Cimabanche then down a railroad grade past a deep canyon to the resort town of Cortina. Along rhe way we passed steep ciffs, peaks, rock debris from landslides and flash floods, WWI memorials, a UNESCO site viewing the high peaks of the Dolomites (Tre Cime in Italian. Drei Zinnen in Getman, Three Peaks in English). After checking into our hotel in the center of Cortina, Anna and I, and Jim and Joanne, with Amy as our guide, walked to the cable car lift and two gondola lifts (we had to change twice to get to the top), paid our 40 euros each. We were whisked from 4000 ft elevation to over 10,000 ft elevation near the summit of Togana de Mexzo, one of three peaks looming over the western side of Cortina and also providing the slopes for an extensive ski area. Incredible views of the valley below, the adjacent Dolomites, and the high peaks of the Alps in all directions. For dinner, our guides treated us at a very nice local restaurant, the Ras Stua. Again. Too much food!Read more

  • Kirk and Anna Lively and LairdItaly, Slovenia, Croatia 2025Traveler
    Hiking with the main refugio in the background
    The refugio/rifugio at the startStartin our hike. Those are 40 euro parking spotsTre Cime along the trailScenery near the main refugioTre Cime from the trailLots of dolomite hereAnna along the trailOur group of seven who did the long hike with PeterBrief stop at a small refugio along the wayView from the trailAnother view with Tre Cime on the rightAnother view

    Hiking Tre Cime National Park

    September 18 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    September 18, 2025, Thursday was our day to hike a 6.23 mile loop with 1400' of elevation gain around Tre Cime/Drei Zinnen/Three Peaks, a national park. Vertical spires, plunging canyons, and enormous scree slopes all of dolomite. Also several refugios where refreshments and food are available for the crowds of people visiting this much cherished place.Read more

  • Kirk and Anna Lively and LairdItaly, Slovenia, Croatia 2025Traveler
    Scenery along the bike path
    Taking a photo opA photo frame along the bike pathA little village and display along the wayThe bike path with some whimsyScenery along the wayBike path next to cliffA building along the wayBridge and waterfall above the bike routeWorking in the field next to the bike route

    Cortina to Belluno

    September 19 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We had a nice breakfast (buffet) at the Hotel Royal in Cortina, then loaded our luggage in our "little yellow van", hopped on our bikes and headed down the bike path towards Belluno. The path follows the Piave River Valley. After our mid-day snack, Anna and I were enjoying our ride so much, we missed a sharp right turn, adding 1.8 miles to our bicycling adventure for the days. We managed to return to the right path using the mapping app provided by the company. Biked down back roads and bike paths through mostly deserted towns (a new four lane highway bypassed those towns) past large sand and gravel operations, steep hills and mountains on either side. Clearly this is a river that sees flash floods often. After an exchange of messages over Whatsapp, tour leader, Peter, found us and directed us past a diversion in the route that was fairly complicated where the river left the steep mountains. A few more miles, partly over what once was a road during Roman times, and then working our way thru the streets of Belluno, we found our way to our hotel,Read more

  • Kirk and Anna Lively and LairdItaly, Slovenia, Croatia 2025Traveler
    Folks organizing a protest in old Treviso
    The view from our hotel terraceWe were assigned the Pink Floyd roomOn the bike route to VallodobbiadeneA view of the mountains we are leaving behindAnother view of the mountains we are leaving behindCornfield with mountains (the Belluno Dolomites) in the backgroundGroup photo along the way. Guide, Peter, is taking the photoThe Italian countrysideThe author of Pinocchio is from this areaChocolate and snack breakThe small cafe in the main squareCheese sampling at LattebuscheThe cheese store at LattebuscheEnjoying ice cream at LattebuscheA brief stop at the vineyards on our way to our hotel in VallodobbiadeneThe church tower in VallodobbiadeneOur dinner in Vallodobbiadene being grilledFarmer processing grapes outside our hotel room windowThe group at a Prosecco tasting

    Belluno to Vallodobbiadene

    September 20 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    20 September. 2025. Saturday
    Our day began with a nice breakfast in our hotel, a quick visit, for Anna and me, to the developing farmer's market in Saint Martin Plaza in front of the hotel. Then our group of ten bicycled about 38 miles from Belluno to Vallodobbiadene. The first part of the ride was through tree-shaded lanes and paths through fields with a view of the lower elevations of the Dolomites on our right, with charming villages with churches and belltowers on the slopes. Lots of cornfields and windrows of freshly cut hay. We stopped for a treat of melted hot chocolate served in a mug in the town of Mel. Just five miles later we stopped at the town of Lattebusche for cheese tasting ( five cheeses ranging from "fresh to "aged cheese). Names included Piave, quite famous and asiago. After the cheese we had delicious Gelato, amarena for me and arancia (orange) for Anna. Most of the last few miles were along a moderately busy highway but we finally turned off and bicycled through vineyards and a very nice town plaza before making a short steep climb to our hotel for the night. Some folks had views of the valley below. We missed out, but the shower was great! Prosecco tasting at 6:30, followed by dinner at a restaurant. The meat was grilled on a wood fire. There was a "playing dead" joke on the way back for the four of us that walked back.Read more

  • Kirk and Anna Lively and LairdItaly, Slovenia, Croatia 2025Traveler
    Our view from the hotel terrace where we had breakfast
    The countryside from the hotel terraceThe church in Asolo, ItalyEnjoying a capachino break from the day's bikingSipping coffee in Asolo, ItalyThe main square in Asolo, Italy. Scores of bicyclists in town on this SundaySlippers we had to wear to visit the Villa MasserInterior of the Villa MasserExterior of the Villa MasserElaborate fountain at the rear of Villa MasserKiwi fruit in an orchard along our bike routeWe pedaled next to irrigation canals for milesEntering the gate to TrevisoOur hotel in Treviso, Shabby on the outside, nice on the inside

    Vallodobbiadene to Treviso

    September 21 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    21 September 2025, Sunday
    We had a very nice breakfast on the terrace of our hotel. All other breakfasts have been buffet style. But this one required that we order and be served. Beautiful views of the countryside and vineyards from the terrace. Had one bonus from our room: The end window opened to a view of a farmer processing his grapes in stainless steel equipment. We bicycled up and away from the inn shortly after 9 am. Our route wound through vineyards and past processing plants with very large (30 ft tall or more) stainless steel tanks, down country lanes past old, old buildings made of stacked stone, often covered by deteriorating stucco. Our first major stop was the very busy village of Asolo (the factory for Asolo hiking boots is near). Seems like hundreds of bicyclists were passing thru. Many were in bright cyclist team jerseys, but also lots of tours.. The church tower bells began to ring loudly just after we arrived. We were able to find a cafe that wasn't busy yet to enjoy a macchiatto (Anna), and a capachinno for me. After decades of drinking coffee I'm finally learning about coffee being served other than plain black. Our last stop was a visit to the Villa de Masser a home built for wealthy folks about 1550, designed by the famous architect. Palladio. Nice place. We bicyled the last 20 miles to Treviso on country lanes, some highways, and quite a bit of time next to irrigation canals. Checked into the Relais San Nicolo Hotel in old town TrevisoRead more

  • Kirk and Anna Lively and LairdItaly, Slovenia, Croatia 2025Traveler
    1On the Rialto Bridge
    Our first view of Venice from outside the train stationOur tour guide, IsabelThe Grand Canal of VeniceA beautiful building along the Grand CanalA museum about Leonardo Da VinciThe church of St. Rocco in VeniceMasks are a big part of the traditions of Venice1The Rialto Bridge over the Grand CanalSt Marks square in VeniceSt Mark's cathedral in Venice. Replicas of the four horses can be seenOn the water bus to Lido Island. Dan, Tammy, and AnnaOur hotel on Lido Island. Ausania Hungaria, Ausania Palace Hotel, and at least one other nameThe beach on the east side of Lido Island facing the Adriatic SeaA brief stop to admire all the empty beach cabanas on a cloudy, damp day

    Treviso to Venice

    Sep 22–24 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    22 September 2025, Monday. We (group of ten plus Amy) walked from Relais San Niccolo, our hotel in Treviso, about 15 minutes to the train station, then boarded the train for Venice. Meanwhile, our luggage, loaded on our yellow van, might not arrive for a day or two because of labor strikes that might interfere with getting the van on the ferry and delivered to our hotel on Lido Island. But we arrived in Venice on time, then met our tour guide Isabel for a two hour walking tour of Venice, crossing the Grand Canal twice, and finishing at St Mark's Plaza (wow!) where Isabel pointed out water coming up through low elevation drains in the plaza as high tide from the Adriatic Sea rolled in. From near the plaza we took a water bus on a 20 minute ride to Lido Island, where our hotel, Ausania Hungaria was located. Due to threats of rain the following day we elected to do as much of that day's bike ride as we could now. We pedaled about ten miles before enough rain was falling to motivate us to return to the hotel. Anna and I went out on our own for salad and wine for dinner, followed by a trip to a local laundromat, where a couple of Italians, including Alberto, a soldier in the Italian Marines, helped us to figure out which buttons to push - and how many times to push each button. Back to the hotel for a well-deserved night of sleeping.Read more

  • Kirk and Anna Lively and LairdItaly, Slovenia, Croatia 2025Traveler
    Sliced fruit for each table as part of breakfast offering
    Joanne, Jim, Sally, Dan, and Amy in the breakfast roomSix of us riding south on Lido IslandThe ferry approaching for the 200 meter ride to the island of PellestrinaOn the ferry to PellestrinaBicycling Pellestrina Island. Anna, Jim, Dan, JoanneDan and I on a beach on Pellestrina Island

    A Day in the Venice Area

    September 23 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

    23 September 2025, Tuesday. To a very nice breakfast at the hotel. Platters of prepared fruit (passion fruit, canelope, kiwi, and a bunch of other stuff at each table) We chatted about the amount of waste. We all met at 8 a.m. to determine our plans for the day considering the weather. The forecast for rain had diminished considerably so six of us elected to ride the 27 mile ride south down narrow Lido Island (essentially all these islands are sand bars) to the ferry to Pellestrina Island then the length of Pellestrina and return. It was a fun ride along the coast line with a very short ferry ride between the two islands, where I got in hot water by walking up the ship's ladders (stairways) to the pilot house - which turned ​​​​out to​ ​be​​​​​​​​ ​prohibited. Past fishing villages and square houses and occasional soccer fields to the end of the paved road - which happened to be a cemetery (civitero). Interesting metaphor there. We returned to the hotel, checked out our plan and places for tomorrow's departure then met all for the 6:30 farewell dinner. It's a very witty group so lots of laughter and good memories.Read more

  • Kirk and Anna Lively and LairdItaly, Slovenia, Croatia 2025Traveler
    On the water bus from Lido Island to the bus station on a rainy day
    We are near the Venice bus stationWe have arrived at our hotel in LjubljanaAn evening walk into Ljubljana with bridge over the river and the castle on the hillThe upstairs at our Slovenian restaurant for the eveningDecoration on the first floor of the restaurant where we ate

    Ljubljana, Slovenia

    Sep 24–26 in Slovenia ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    24 September 2025, Wednesday. Up early. To breakfast at 7:15 to say goodbye to the six leaving at 7:30, then goodbye to Tom and Jan and our tour leaders Peter and Amy.. To the water bus about 8:30, buying a sandwich for lunch along the way. Light rain. To the Venice bus station for a 12 minute ride to Mestre where we boarded our Flix bus for Ljubljana, Slovenia. 4 1/2 hour bus ride, an hour behind schedule due to heavy traffic near and in Ljubljana. Taxi to the Hotel Bloom, then a walk in old town including crossing the river. Found a delightful Slovenian restaurant and had a nice meal of salad, mushroom soup, bread, wine, and pear brandyRead more

  • Kirk and Anna Lively and LairdItaly, Slovenia, Croatia 2025Traveler
    Ljubljana Castle from the river in old town
    A scene from the Slovenian Impressionism video at the castlePart of the puppet museum at the castleLjubljana from the viewing tower of Ljubljana CastleA bronze model of Ljubljana CastleCaught on camera. Can't deny it.Anna with a couple in Roman costume from an impending time travel tourThe funicular from the castle to town by the riverFruit in the market at the base of the funicularAnna and enjoying a pivo in old town LjubljanaLjubljana is a pretty city with lots of vegetationOld town Ljubljana at night with the castle on the hill

    Ljubljana, Slovenia

    September 25 in Slovenia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    25 September 2025, Thursday We are in Ljubljana, Slovenia
    After a very nice breakfast at the hotel, we walked up a steep trail to Ljubljana Castle and spent several hours exploring the castle and its exhibits, including an Impressionism display, a puppet museum, the viewing tower which has great views of the city and the mountains in the distance, and a video of the castle's history. We were sprayed with sprinklers when the video showed rainshowers and the whole room occasionally vibrated. We took the funicular down to the market place, found a mineral for my collection, then had fish and chips at one of the many bars and restaurants that line the river here in the old town.Read more

  • Kirk and Anna Lively and LairdItaly, Slovenia, Croatia 2025Traveler
    Sculpture near the university in Ljubljana commemorating a 1975 uprising
    Bronze relieve with anatomically correct figures in the university areaLjubljana Castle from our morning hikeLake Bled with the island in the backgroundBled Castle and St. Martin church at Lake BledBled Castle from our restaurantBled and Lake Bled from the hiking trail to the castle

    Bled, Slovenia

    September 26 in Slovenia ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    26 September 2025, Friday Up at 6:30 to walk for an hour through the city and along the river, visiting the university district and monuments before returning to our hotel for breakfast a little after eight. Checked out at 11. Took an Uber to the train station. Took me about 45 minutes to find our car rental office but finally did so. Picked up our car (a Toyota hybrid C-HV) then drove out of the city to Bled with a stop along the way to eat the small sandwiches we had made at the breakfast buffet. Arrived in Bled about 2:30. Checked into our bnb, the Vila Lara. Four units I think but we are the only ones here. Lengthy monologue by our passionate host Ziga with the long grey ponytail. We walked down to Lake Bled, along the lakeshore then up to the castle via a steep trail with lots of steps. Back into town via a different hiking path past hostels and hotels. Had an early dinner of grilled chicken salad and goulash with pivo and lemonade (unsweetened!) at an upscale hotel restaurant on the shore of the lake with a beautiful view of the castle. Returned to the bnb for the night. No late partying for this crew!Read more

  • Kirk and Anna Lively and LairdItaly, Slovenia, Croatia 2025Traveler
    Anna with rock helmet on the Vintgar Gorge trail
    Whitewater in Vintgar GorgeVintgar Gorge with cantilevered walkwayNear the end of the Vintgar Gorge hikeBridge at the end of the Vintgar Gorge hikePart of the King of Triglav trail returning from Vintgar GorgeCows with Bled and Bled Castle in the backgroundWalking thru the village of Zasp on our way back to BledCornfield just outside of Bled with Bled Castle in the backgroundPre-tourist architecture in Zasp1Our boatman, Alesh, whose family has had a right to charge for boating here for generationsWaiting for a full boatAnna and some of our fellow boat trip travelersBled Castle from the boat tripSteps from the church down to the dock on the islandThe church tower on the island of Lake Bled. The only island in SloveniaBagpiper (dudelzak) at Lake Bled

    Bled, Slovenia

    September 27 in Slovenia ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    27 September 2025, Saturday We walked to the local bus station, took the Vintgar shuttle to the Vintgar Gorge. Wore our mandatory rock helmets as we hiked thru this very picturesque gorge. It's a one way trail so we hiked back on the "King of Triglav" trail to the little church of St, Caterina, where we snacked looking over a view of cows with bells to the village (Zasip) and the valley beyond, including Bled. Walked back to Bled on a country road (about 1 1/2 miles) past cows and a large sunflower field, pretty homes, and interesting drying racks which we later learned were for drying hay. A little later we returned to the lakeshore for a boat ride (fellow with oars) out to Slovenia's only island, the island in lake Bled that has a church - which has only two ​​​​services each year but does serve for weddings and such things. On return to the shore we bought a take home avocado salad, returned to the bnb and had a nice dinner with some other food items we had bought during the day.Read more

  • Kirk and Anna Lively and LairdItaly, Slovenia, Croatia 2025Traveler
    The Russian Chapel on the narrow road to Vrsic Pass
    European cyclamenCold and breezy at Vrsic PassVrsic Pass souvenir shopLooking down into the Soca valley, site of fierce WWI battlesLooking back up the Soca valley towards Vrsic PassFootbridge at TrentaAt Juliana botanical gardenWaterfall from Juliana Botanical GardenA small church at TrentaHiking up to a waterfall in upper centerWWI stone walls

    Bled, Slovenia

    September 28 in Slovenia ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    28 September 2025, Sunday. We had quite the adventure! Drove our rental car up and over three mountain passes. The first and highest was Vrsic Pass, about a 4,000 ft climb on a narrow road built by Austrians and their Russian prisoners of war during WWI. The pass is at 1611 meters or 5250 ft. To go up the north side then down the south requires 50 hairpin curves. Each is numbered with a sign. The area was the scene of vicious fighting in WWI. Some 1.7 million men were killed or "mutilated" according to text we read. Sites visited include: 1. The Russian Chapel built by the Russian Pows to commemorate 100 of their fellows killed in an avalanche, 2. The Juliana Botanicsl garden, an unexpected gem, 3. The impressive Slap Boka waterfall. 5. Dinner at a nice restaurant in the town of Tolmin 6. Driving up a very narrow road over two more mtn passes as dark is approaching. And 7. Arriving back at our bnb well after dark about 8 pm, and 8. Beautiful scenery all along the way.Read more

  • Kirk and Anna Lively and LairdItaly, Slovenia, Croatia 2025Traveler
    Memorial for 52 murdered in 1991
    Map of Plitvici lakes and hiking trailsBeginning to hike from the rim down into the valleyScenery along the wayThe "Big" waterfallSigns showing the steplike effect of the eroded karst topographyPonds on the slow moving riverWaterfalls flowing over the lip of a karst depressionThe boat ride for part of our hikeLots of boardwalks at Plitvici. Mostly rough cut limbsWalking the boardwalkPond with waterfallsMore pretty waterfallsOn the trail with the first colors of fallLooking down into the valley on our return

    Plitvici, Croatia

    September 29 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    29 September 2025. Monday. We checked out of our bnb, Vila Lara, saying goodbye to Ziga and his mother. Drove south for Croatia. For reasons we never figured out, our Google Map directions kept taking us off the main roadways to back roads. We basically arrived at Plitvice National Park driving down some alleyways and dodging chickens (and one private driveway by accident). But it did give us the opportunity to view and reflect on a back road memorial to 52 people mass-murdered in 1991 during the Balkans war. Our visit to Plitvice was awesome once we got away from the crowds on the boardwalks during the first half-mile. We hiked over six miles viewing numerous lakes and waterfalls created by the eroded karst environment. Very very pretty and the fish seemed very happy.Read more

  • Kirk and Anna Lively and LairdItaly, Slovenia, Croatia 2025Traveler
    Buildings destroyed during the Balkans War
    Old town Rohinje from our hotel windowThe harbor at RohinjeAccess to the water at old town RohinjeStreet in old town RohinjeThe cathedral of St. Euphemius on the top of the hill in old townOld town RohinjeSteps in old town RohinjeThe harbor and old town Rohinje at night

    Rovinj, Croatia

    September 30 in Croatia ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    30 September 2025 We left Pltivici National Park. Drove to Rohinj on the coast passing a few war-wrecked buildings along the way. Explored the city which has a very nice harbor and Old Town built on a hill. Had a nice sea bass and salad dinner at the restaurant, Il Faro, at our hotel. Returned to the harbor to see the city under lights.Read more

  • Kirk and Anna Lively and LairdItaly, Slovenia, Croatia 2025Traveler
    The coliseum at Pula
    The coliseum at Pula begun in the 1st century BCAmphora display in the gallery beneath the floor of the coliseumOlives where we stopped to picnicMotovun, CroatiaEntry to the fortress at MotovunSipping wine on the fortress wallView of the countryside while sipping wineAnother countryside view from the fortress wallThe main square in the fortressThe main street of MotovunOur last look at MotovunOur lodging in Postogna, SloveniaOne of a herd of donkeys at our tourist farm lodging

    Postogna, Slovenia

    October 1 in Slovenia ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Leaving Rohinge, we drove south to Pula to visit the Roman coliseum. Of 360 coliseums in Roman world, this was one of the 30 largest, seating 23,000 with 44 cm of seating for each. Turned north to visit the hilltop town of Motovun. Had wine at the top of the fortress wall looking out over the countryside. Then drove north to a tourist farm for our lodging. The next morning we drove to Ljubljana to return our rental car, took the Flix Bus to Mestre, Italy, stayed overnight in the Vienna Hotel, thenRead more

  • Kirk and Anna Lively and LairdItaly, Slovenia, Croatia 2025Traveler

    Mestre, Italy

    October 2 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    From Postogna we drove to Ljubljana, dropped our rental car, then took our four hour Flixbus ride to Mestre, and finished by walking to the Hotel Vienna nearby. Our first assigned room was unsatisfactory so we persuaded the clerk to give us a different room. We once again had a quite nice dinner at the Bar Ristorante Piccolo including spaghetti then gelato for dessert. The following morning we dodged a national transportation strike by getting to the airport shuttle bus early then took the short flight to London, then a few hours later, the much longer flight to Seattle with gorgeous views of the glaciers on the east coast of Greenland. The following day, after a night at the Sleep Inn Seatac, we took the Wenatchee Valley Shuttle back to Wenatchee via Stevens Pass, because Blewett Pass (Highway 97) was closed due to the Labor Mountain Wildfire, and were picked up for the short ride home by our friend, Jay.Read more

    Trip end
    October 4, 2025
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