• Linda Bennett

English adventures

5 glorious weeks of cycling and hiking The Isle of Wight, The Cotswolds and the South West coastline path. Maybe even a pint of two in the evenings. Fingers crossed for perfect autumn weather. Leer más
  • Inicio del viaje
    25 de septiembre de 2024

    Isle of Wight cycle

    26 de septiembre de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    Our beautiful UK trip kicked off on the quaint and historic Isle of Wight, The Island was formed at the end of the last ice age. It’s South of England about 1.5 hours drive from London. The island is only small so ideal for a three day cycle through the pretty villages and quiet, narrow, winding roads through the countryside. Our first night was in the seaside resort town Ryde and it was raining quite a lot so a great opportunity to sample the English ales at the local pubs on the esplanade. Simon orders the pints - I have half!

    Day 1 : Ryde to Yarmouth cycle. We cycled 44km
    on a self-guided trip which allowed us lots of freedom to stop and explore many beautiful tiny villages and old churches. Some highlights were the visit to Quarr Abbey - home to a small community of monks and some friendly pigs!
    We cycled on to St Mildred’s church where we discovered the tombs of Prince Louis & Princess Victoria of Battenburg - Queen Victoria’s family. So amazing and humbling to see their graves in such a small graveyard. We continued on cycling the narrow lanes and peering over the hedges to view the cows or sheep grazing. Finally arriving in the harbour town of Yarmouth. We stayed in the main square upstairs at The Bugle Coaching Inn.
    After a 44km cycle often in somewhat windy conditions we enjoyed a pub meal of steak pie with a fine red wine. 🍷 Felt like there should have been a warm fire 🔥 to sit by but it’s only the start of autumn here and 13c temps might be considered too warm for a fire.
    Early to bed tonight to prepare for a 38km cycle tomorrow. Fingers crossed for sunny conditions.
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  • Day Two Cycle Isle of Wight

    28 de septiembre de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    Day Two : We departed Yarmouth, following the directions on our self guided cycling tour of the Isle of Wight. The total bike journey today was 39km to The White Mouse Inn at Chale.
    Departing Yarmouth on our cycles we followed a narrow dirt path through long corridors of overgrown forest forming a never ending canopy over the trail. I was imagining Robin Hood and his merry band of thieves would leap out from the undergrowth at any moment.
    After meandering our way through the forest it opened up in to a clearing and we were pleasantly surprised by beautiful white swans swimming gracefully around in an estuary. Their back drop was a lovely stone bridge.
    Along the way we discovered The Needles which are some of the world’s most photographed rocks. They looked like they were made of chalk! The site was also the location of the world’s first permanent Wireless Station! It was completed in 1897.
    We snacked on flapjacks ( UK version of an oat muesli bar) and a brownie while gazing out over the English Channel. So pretty and to think that France is just across the water.
    We spent the afternoon cycling along the windswept coast line. At times we left the busy road and discovered little villages with quaint old churches and houses with thatched roofs. We also travelled up narrow lanes lined with tall hedges. We passed crops of corn and cauliflower. Not many sheep or cattle here.
    Tonight we’re resting at The White Mouse Inn which overlooks the ocean. Hoping for a sunset but seems it could be too cloudy. We dined on scampi and bangers & mash and were treated to live music on a Saturday night.
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  • Day 3 Cycle final leg

    29 de septiembre de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    It’s Sunday in UK. Weather was a little gloomy and windy BUT not raining ! We set off on the final leg of our circuit of the Isle of Wight after a glorious and rather large English Breakfast!!
    Total kms today - 45km ( maybe because we miss-navigated a couple of times)
    Good news is that Simon and I are still talking after this self guided tour that has so many detailed directions and instructions. Felt like we stopped every 10 minutes. Challenging when you just want to cycle on.
    The English drivers overall were very polite to cyclists we thought. Often slowing down and waiting patiently to overtake us. The roads were narrow and the little farm lanes were even narrower! Today was a mix of riding on busy roads and little backroad lanes lined with green hedges where you would get occasional glimpses in to beautiful meadows and pastures. The lanes were lovely not just for the quietness but they protected us from the harsh coastal winds.
    We enjoyed many lovely coastal views and called in to visit the only windmill on the island and a very historic church with quite an overgrown cemetery. Fascinating mainly because of the age of the cemetery dating back to 1700s but also the overgrown parts and lovely big trees 🌳 growing amongst the crooked graves. This graveyard was a refuge to many wildlife like squirrels and bats and butterflies so that’s the reason for the overgrowth. There is something to be said about entering old churches. There is an incredible silence and peacefulness once inside.
    We arrived back at Ryde around 3pm
    our original starting point, just before rain set in.
    Total kms cycled was approx 125km in 3days
    Glad I had a padded seat! Pulled up pretty good for limited cycling training 😀
    It’s raining this evening 🌧️ grateful we didn’t have any rain on our cycle trip.
    Off to Oxford tomorrow.
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  • Oxford

    30 de septiembre de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    After arriving in Oxford via bus from Portsmouth we checked in and took a wander around the University city of Oxford otherwise known as the Dreaming Spires due to so many churches with tall spires.
    Our first stop at Oxford was The Bear Inn- oldest pub in Oxford and also the pub where my brother Anthony worked when he was 23years old! It had the biggest collection of college half ties. There were hundreds of them representing all the colleges. We had a very traditional lunch of chicken & leek pie washed down with an ale.
    At the turn of every corner was a surprise of incredible architecture and design as we discovered the many colleges, university halls, libraries and churches. I didn’t even realise this is where Harry Potter was filmed!!
    One of the highlights for us was a beautiful afternoon walk around the oldest Botanic Gardens in UK 🇬🇧 The greenhouses were so cool as they had speciality plants such as carnivorous plants and arid plants.
    The following day we took a tour of some of the Oxford University historic buildings.
    Did you know there are 26000 university students study here! There are 38 colleges in total. Students get allocated to any college.
    Here are a few facts from our walking tour!
    * Divinity school - old university hall which was used in the Harry Potter film
    * Sheldonian Theatre
    Where students matriculate & graduate
    * Bridge of Sighs 1914
    Bridge that took you to prison (Venice)
    The reason Oxford has a bridge is simply because Cambridge has one!
    * Bodleiana Library - built in 1602
    It’s a copyright library meaning it has a copy of everything ever printed !!
    There are 13million books total.
    * All Souls College - most prestigious one
    16th century. You can apply directly however you
    need to be an Oxford graduate to have any chance at all of studying here. Only accepts between zero and two students a year
    Most clever students would go here
    Everything paid for next seven years of their study. Basically only 30 people study here!
    * University Church of St Mary has a tower with spiral stairs that you can climb up to the top of the tower and this provides the best views over Oxford.
    The final thing I will mention is that the prestigious Oxford University has the following statistics on their enrolments-
    60 % state. 40% private school enrolment which maybe is a testament to the free education system that the UK has developed.
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  • Cotswolds Day One

    2 de octubre de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    As I write this, we are sitting by a beautiful open fire at the Eight Bells Pub at the top end of Chipping Campden. Simons having a second pint and I’m enjoying a Prosecco. Lots of Americans here and locals with their pooches.
    The special locals have their own steins hanging in the bar.
    Today after devouring a delightful full English breakfast we departed Chipping Campden the town where the Cotswolds Way commences,
    Our walk today was 18km to a little village called Stanton. The temp was around 13c and overcast.
    We hiked on little paths through small farms. There were many little gates to open and go through to the next paddock or section of the track. The gates are known as kissing gates and stiles. The gates are pretty cool and very well maintained. I loved feeling the smoothness of the rails which only occurs because thousands of hikers have opened them over the years.
    It’s the middle of autumn 🍂 and this particular area has received incredible amounts of wild weather and high rainfall over the last week so the tracks were quite muddy. One track had horses running up and down it so it was very treacherous and slippery.
    The Cotswolds have some very unusual sheep including a breed known as the Lion Sheep
    🐑. We also saw some belted Galloway cattle.
    People have lived worked and farmed the Cotswolds for over 6000 years.
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  • Stanton to Cleeve Hill Day 2

    3 de octubre de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    It’s Thursday 3rd October and a spectacular sunny autumn 🍂 day here. We are excited for a big day of hiking across the escarpment to Cleeve Hill.
    Chipping Campden was a beautiful village to stay for a second night. We loved our dining experiences and the beautiful shops.
    I met a local farmer whilst waiting for a coffee at Chipping Campden this morning. He gave me a quick run down of the history of wool around these parts and he told me the names of the local breed of sheep 🐑 mainly bred for their lovely chops these days. The main breed is North Country Mill with the spotty black legs and faces and the Texal are the broad face pretty eyed sheep. 🐑
    It costs too much to shear the sheep in England so the only sheep are the ones for meat.
    Later on the hike we met a farmer at work. Him and his son were “daggjng” the ewes in preparation for the rams. Basically tidying up their bottoms (crutching). He also has a lot of steers locked up and feeding them silage which was very smelly indeed!
    We had a transfer to Stanton at 9:30 and walked 25km today to arrive at Cleve Hill around 4:30pm
    It’s a long walk up and down hills and through woodlands and across the sides of hills where sheep are grazing.
    Our BnB was at the very top of Cleve Hill and we had a beautiful room with a magical view over Cheltenham, a sprawling city below. The sunset as we walked to the pub for dinner was a spectacular sight.
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  • Cleve Hill to Birdlip Day 3

    4 de octubre de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We walked a total of 25km to the tiny village of Birdlip today. The Cotswolds Way took us along the escarpment surrounding the city of Cheltenham. The track today gave us the highest views of Cotswolds. We could almost see across to Wales and definitely the Malvern Mountains in the distance. The views were stunning.
    We are starting to understand why the walk is so popular. I thought we’d be walking through little villages and farms with sheep everywhere but there is so much more. We found ourselves walking through woodlands of beech trees, past disused quarries, along stone walls and down narrow tracks that are lined with hawthorn hedges. Every turn of a corner finds you in a different environment. One thing for certain it’s a beautiful trail that is so good for the soul and the mind.
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  • Birdlip to Painswick Day 4

    5 de octubre de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    It’s Saturday 5th October
    A short walk today from Birdlip through many woodlands. The distance was only 13km today.
    We arrived in Painswick around lunch time so we spent the afternoon wandering around the Painswick Rococo Garden. 🪴 It was planted in the 1740s. Over 240 years later in 1984 it was restored. There were many interesting aspects including a house for an eagle 🦅 a pigeon house, a pond, a plunge pool and an orchard. Our favourite was the maze garden. The maze was created to commemorate the 250th anniversary of the gardens.
    We are resting in a lovely little bnb and about to head to The Oak - a local pub down the road.
    It’s been a perfect autumn 🍂 day! So lucky with the weather so far.
    The Oak turned out to be a cosy pub for locals to meet a catch up. One of the things we noticed about pubs in England is they serve the sole purpose of a space for people to connect. They are the heart of the village and they are not spoiled by poker machines or big TVs showing sport.
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  • Painswick to Kings Stanley Day 5

    5 de octubre de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Sunday October 6th
    It’s overcast and cool today. We walked 16km to Kings Stanley and it rained at 4pm just after we settled in to the pub where we are staying!

    Last night we wandered the streets of Painswick where we stayed on Saturday night at a BnB called St Anne’s. All the houses and businesses look the same in this town. We received a warm welcome at The Royal Oak pub. It was a proper English pub. Very cosy, stone built and full of locals mostly. We had a delicious traditional cottage pie for dinner.

    Next morning we set off after a full English breakfast, home cooked. We were also provided with a packed lunch - fresh cheddar and chutney sandwiches 🥪 with crisps and muesli bars.

    In the section today we came across the marker that indicates the half way point along Cotswolds Way stating Bath 55 miles on one side and Chipping Campden 47miles on the other, which clearly isn’t halfway but it’s close.

    So we’ve walked about 75km so far with about 88km to go.

    We walked through a lot of woodland today. The trees are so magnificent and we passed many English locals out for their Sunday stroll with their children and their dogs 🐕 Everyone seems to own a dog or two in England. We came across some horse riders too! 🐴

    After leaving the beautiful woods, we hiked through corn fields and a vineyard which had grapes 🍇 almost ready to harvest. Not many sheep today but mostly cows 🐄 of different breeds.

    We arrived at Kings Stanley around 3pm where we had a transfer taxi service to our hotel in Frocester. Fingers crossed for Sunday Roast dinner.

    It’s going to be a huge 27km walk tomorrow and predicted rain 🌧️.
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  • Kings Stanley - Wotten Under-Edge Day 6

    7 de octubre de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Monday 7th October

    If I could only choose one section of the Cotswold Way to do again, it might be this day from Kings Stanley to Wotton Upon Edge. It was undoubtedly another hard stretch with a lot of climbing up and down, but I think it might have been the prettiest.

    The rain last night had made everything shine, but now the sun was out and the sky was blue.

    Our steps took us up the hill from Kings Stanley to rejoin the trail and climb through a wood to Coaley Peak.

    As you near the top of the hill, there are old iron age forts left in the ground. Actually we saw loads of these on The Cotswold Way. There are lots of historical markers showing you where and how people lived ages and ages ago. It’s one of the draws of this trail.

    As you walk the ridge, you can see where you’ve come from and where you are headed. There are several bigger towns that you never go through on The Cotswold Way, but that you can see from these hilltops.

    You could see the little white specks of sheep in the fields below and as we looked at the map, I could see we would be circling the ridge, dropping down, and then climbing right back up again.

    We stopped in the little village of Dursley where we stopped for a tea and had a quick chat to a couple of hikers from Montana and New Zealand. There are not many walkers on the trail at this time of year it seems.

    The climbing was a little more gradual and spread out after the steep morning hills. For much of the afternoon, we could see the Tyndale Monument in the distance as it got closer and closer.

    We climbed up through another forest after North Nimbley. When we emerged from the trees we were finally on the hill with the Tyndale Monument.

    We had been watching it all day, so it only seemed fitting to climb to the top.

    It was built in 1866 honor of William Tyndale, who did an early translation of the New Testament into English. He was born nearby.

    We were rewarded with beautiful views of the surrounding valleys and villages. From the monument, we descended into Wotton-Under-Edge. Along the path we saw many squirrels out collecting grain from the nearby field where a crop had been harvested. We must have seen about 20 squirrels 🐿️ They were super cute

    We we then made our way to our hotel, The Swan.
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  • Wotten Under-Edge to Old Sodbury Day 7

    8 de octubre de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Tuesday 8th October

    We had a delightful breakfast of porridge (me) and Royal eggs (Simon) after a rather late night at the Swan Hotel last night. Cotswolds make a really lovely Gin which goes nicely with Elderflower tonic I discovered.

    It’s the first day in two weeks that we experienced rain. Started off intermittent with some lovely bright sunshine but as the day went on the rain became heavier turning our trails into muddy slip and slides and at times miniature rivers! This made the hike one of the most challenging sections. The locals told us it was a day of extreme weather with heavy rainfall and they were right!

    We came across some interesting cows half way through the walk. They seemed like shorthorns but with long horns!! After checking with some of the older locals at The Dog Inn tonight we think they were Texas Longhorns - a long way from home!! We wondered what on earth they would be doing in the Cotswolds .

    The other thing we noticed was the abundance of pheasants running about helter skelter in the fields and along the tracks. They were very reluctant to fly maybe because that’s when they could be shot down in hunting season. It was a challenge to get a photo of a pheasant because they consistently kept a safe distance. Very smart!

    It was impossible to find a nice spot to enjoy our packed lunch today due to it being so wet and raining. We ended up stopping in a field and I popped up an umbrella to keep dry. It made for a funny photo!

    We marched on towards the Somerset Monument. Unlike the Tynsdale one we were not able to access this due to falling masonary.

    As we got closer to Old Sodbury there were many horses with rugs on them in the fields. Later we found out that Old Sodbury is very close to Badminton Trials an international horse riding event.

    After 24km of walking we arrived at Old Sodbury. Walking through the church grounds and then on through the tiny village to our stay at Old Sodbury House BnB. We were soaking wet but our hosts soon made us feel warm and dry. Our host Ellie helped us stuff our hiking boots with scrunched up newspaper to help dry them out. It was a fabulous tip. Dry shoes the next day were a godsend. 👟 👟

    After hot showers we headed off to the local
    pub - The Dog Inn for an early dinner. It was pretty quiet at this pub and we noted how English pubs are all about having a drink and enjoying a lovely English meal. There are no televisions or poker machines which is so refreshing and much more relaxing ☺️
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  • Old Sodbury to Cold Ashton Day 8

    9 de octubre de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Tuesday 9th October

    As we headed out of Old Sodbury, we did not realise what treats were in store for us this day! We weaved around Old Sodbury taking a few pics of The Dog Inn where we dined last night and then crossed the busy main road to avoid the morning traffic.
    After crossing a few fields, we were delighted to come upon the estate of Dodington Park.
    There was a very high hedge around this estate and we came across a beautiful gate entrance and a rather large moat. There was a lot of signage saying private keep out so we started to get the feeling that this estate belonged to someone famous or well known.
    After research at the pub in Marshfield tonight we found out that it once belonged to Robbie Williams!!

    Dodington House and the park are now owned by the Dyson family (yes, the vacuum cleaner people) and our path went directly through this gem of a landscape.

    Just out of town we crossed the M4 motorway, one of the major traffic arteries of the UK – a reminder of the busy lives we had left behind 8 days ago as we began this walk. We hurried past the motorway to return to the comforting, tranquil countryside. Our path directed us on a route that passed an attractive working farm, Lower Lapdown Farm.

    Around noon, we were surprised when we arrived at Dyrham House not expecting anything as grand as this. We called out to the gardener (one of 500 volunteers) about how to enter as the large iron gate was locked. He kindly told us about a ‘secret’ entry via St Peter’s Church which had a path that lead us directly into the beautiful gardens rather than walk 5miles up a hill to return in the front entrance and pay £20 admission.

    We felt lucky to enjoy our packed lunch in the beautiful gardens looking up to this amazing English home. Talk about cheap skates !

    Dyrham Park is a baroque English country house in an ancient deer park near the village of Dyrham in South Gloucestershire . The house, with the attached orangery and stable block, is a Grade I listed building in the UK while the park is Grade II* listed on the National Register of Historic Parks and Gardens. This incredible house was built for William Blathwayt in stages during the 17th and early 18th centuries. It contained art works and furniture from around the world due to Williams connections.

    After 2-3 hours of viewing the collections of William Blathwayt we decided to get back on the trail and after about 5km and a few hectic crossings of busy roads, we arrived at Cold Ashton. Simon kindly held my hand while crossing these roads as the traffic was fast including a cattle truck. These roads are narrow and there is barely any verge to stand on.

    Once arriving at Cold Ashton village we were provided with a lift to Marshfield, to the Catherine Wheel Pub about 2miles away. We were the only walkers staying here. Dinner downstairs at the pub was so delicious. Simo had the pork tenderloins and me the lamb tagine! First time I’ve seen lamb on the menu the whole way which is interesting because we pass by fat lambs almost every day. Pork, fish and beef seem so much more popular in the menu.

    For dessert (or pudding) I treated myself to a sticky pudding just so I could try the Marshfield local icecream! The dairy cows here have the creamiest milk that is used to make local icecream. So yummy and creamy.

    Looking forward to arriving in Bath tomorrow.
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  • Cold Ashton to Bath Day 9

    10 de octubre de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Thursday 10th October

    Our final day- a walk through pastoral England with wide views, ancient battlefields and a racecourse, before a final descent into an historic city, with it’s Roman Baths and the architectural splendour of the Crescent and Abbey.

    Today we left Marshfield after a beautiful stay at the Catherine Wheel Hotel. We had a lift to Cold Ashton with Roo, where we resumed our walk.

    Our first point of interest was the Battle of Landsdowne. The First English Civil War battle of Lansdowne, or Lansdown, was fought on 5 July 1643, at Lansdowne Hill, near Bath, Somerset, England. You can still see the stone walls and the trees where the soldiers took cover. The battle of Lansdown Hill took place on 5th July 1643 between the armies of King Charles I and the parliamentarians. They took up defences on each side of a field, bombarding each other with bloody results. But neither army could make much headway. At night the Parliamentarians retreated to Bath under cover of darkness, leaving the embers of their musket matches burning on the wall to fool the enemy as to their continued presence.

    We came upon the Bath racecourse which looked quite posh with its big white permanent marquees. About 5 minutes down the hill and out of sight we heard a race being called and sure enough the races were on today!

    We enjoyed our packed lunch in a grassy paddock with plenty of sheep 🐑 while looking down over Upper Weston, a small town below. It was our last opportunity to enjoy the true Cotswolds before heading in to Bath. You wouldn’t believe how sound carries through the valleys. We could still hear the race caller and the screams of children playing at a school in upper Westcott.

    Having climbed half way up the slopes above the city of Bath, the Cotswold Way followed parks and avenues of beech trees down Sion Hill into Royal Victoria Park before the dramatic introduction of the Georgian splendour of the Royal Crescent quickly followed by the Circus.

    Bath Abbey is the official end of the Cotswold Way.

    The termini is marked by a stone set into the pavement. A sister to the one we had left in Chipping Campden 102 miles ago. This limestone disc was carved by local artist Iain Cotton. The outer verse on this one differs from that at the other end of the trail.

    We had our photo taken by Clive another hiker on the trail who spotted us from a cafe and bolted over to take it! We joined him for a quick coffee before spotting another hiker, Helene. We then offered to take her photo as well. Helene was from Oxford so she shared a few tips for what to do during our one day stay in Bath.

    We wondered off to find out accomodation crossing the River Avon along the way. We took photos of the rushing brown water and the weir.

    We found The Apple Tree Guest House along a narrow street just past the Bath Cricket ground. We were greeted by our host, a Chinese lady named Ling.

    After a big sort out of our laundry, we ventured off to downtown Bath where we had a celebratory ale & a sparkling at The Huntsman.

    Across the street we noted a Moroccan 🇲🇦 restaurant which is where we enjoyed a beautiful tagine style dinner & a cab Sav from
    Cassa Blanca 🍷. Perfect 👌
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  • Bath

    10–12 oct. 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Friday 11th October

    We had the luxury of exploring the historic city of Bath and lucky for us the autumn weather was superb. Bath was built from golden Bath stone and is internationally renowned for its stunning architectural landmarks.
    It has a population of around 94000 people.

    Apparently a visit to Bath is not complete without uncovering the city’s spa heritage at the ancient Roman Baths and the modern Thermae Bath Spa. Luckily we packed our swimmers so we could immerse ourselves in the naturally warm, mineral rich underground waters that come from about 3km underground.
    It was a very unique experience to be in the spa particularly the modern Thermae Spa on the roof top as it has 360-degree views overlooking the city of Bath and the Bath Abbey. (Cathedral). You are not permitted to take any photos once inside the Thermae Spa building. I had to copy the pics from the website.

    Following our delightful and rather relaxing two hour Spa experience we summoned up some energy to go on the Mayors Guided Walk (free 2 hour walk) at 2pm. The sun was still shining so off we went. Our guide Collin was very knowledgeable and passionate on the architecture of Bath.
    Some facts were :
    Bath is the only city in UK that is designated as a UNESCA World Heritage Site (Venice is an example). Architects John Wood the Elder and Younger were instrumental in designing the way Georgian Bath looked, and still does to this day.

    The son of a local builder, John the Elder had grand ambitions for Bath, combining his passion for Palladianism and ancient history to restore the city to its Roman glory. When he died in 1754, he passed his legacy onto his son, John Wood the Younger, who continued his work but pioneered his own style, which was less detailed than his father’s.

    Between them they constructed Bath’s most famous landmarks during the eighteenth century, including Queen Square, Prior Park, the Circus, the Royal Crescent and the Assembly Rooms. Their extraordinary work played an important part in Bath being a World Heritage site today.

    After our tour concluded we headed back to The Apple Tree guest house for a freshen up and then headed out for drinks and dinner at The Huntsman, situated in the main down town area of Bath. This is a big rugby 🏉 pub as it’s very close to the Rugby Field which is situated just across the River Avon from this pub, it’s a 5-10 minute walk.
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  • South West Coast Path Padstow Day 1

    13–15 oct. 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Today marks a new adventure for us!!
    We were super excited to start our first section of the South West Coast Path walk from Padstow to Porthcothan about a 22km walk along the coast. It was overcast but not too cold only 15c.

    Simon had been up since 3am going over the routes, downloading maps, checking tidal heights for crossings and viewing bus timetables to make our day run smoothly. Sounds rather hectic but it all turned out fine.

    After yet another English breakfast at the Old Ship Inn, the pub we were staying, we quickly stopped in at a bakery opposite the Ship to purchase lunch! We bought traditional Cornish (Cornwall) pastries for our lunch along the way.

    We set off out of the Historical Fishing Port of Padstow at around 9am. Padstow is made quite famous by Rick Stein (the chef) as he runs a cooking school here as well as some classy restaurants, a fish and chips shop and a beautiful deli. We’ve heard he owns half the town. I also had to google Rick as I was a little curious.

    Since his rise to fame, Rick has earned a HUGE fortune. He has an estimated net worth of £32M. This eyewatering amount has been made through his numerous business ventures, which includes his restaurants. His best-selling cookbooks have also helped boost the coffers, as do his BBC shows.7

    Our path lead us out of town along the River Camel 🐪 up towards the headlands. This provided us with beautiful views looking back to Padstow.

    It wasn’t long before we were face to face with the vast yet very calm Celtic Sea. We walked along the top of very steep cliffs. The path took us up and down following little goat tracks but after rounding a few headlands we were able to experience beaches.
    We met up with a rather overdressed life guard. He was wearing polar fleece and track suit pants. We wondered why the flags were set so far back from the water but he quickly informed us of the 8m high tides that come in after 2:30 causing the beach to be swallowed up.

    We noticed some peculiar little buildings close to the beaches. On closer inspection turns out they were saunas for swimmers 🏊 to use after surfing or a dip in cold ocean water.

    We enjoyed a picnic overlooking a life boat station which had boats inside that could be deployed for ocean rescues. It was rather unique.
    The RNLI is the Royal National Lifeboat Institution and is made up of 97% volunteers. It is separate from the Coastguard operation.

    One of the beaches we were able to walk across. It was very Sandy and heavy going so I collected a few unusual shells that looked different to the beaches from Australia. I also noticed the small muscle shells seemed to be a beautiful deep navy blue in colour. See the photos of the shells washed up on the beach.

    We walked on over a few more headlands and the weather seemed to turn a little cold by 3:30 just as we turned a sharp left to reveal the inlet of Porthcothan Bay. We waited about 50 minutes to catch a double decker bus back to Padstow.

    We sat up the top of the bus at the very front which gave us wonderful views all the way back through the little holiday villages back to Padstow which was only about 6miles. Seemed funny as we had walked 23km to Porthcothan only to hop on a bus and be back where we started in 32minutes !!

    One thing that rather amused me with the bus ride was the fact that the roads were so narrow and winding that if a car came in the opposite direction they would have to stop or reverse back to let the bus pass!! Often these cars would be luxury vehicles like BMW, Mercedes, Porche, Audi or Saab. These cars would have to give the bus right of way and reverse up. I’m sure their drivers were very worried about scratching their lovely cars on the thick hedges that lined these country roads.

    We hopped off the bus and paid a quick visit in to Rick Steins Deli down on the wharf area before it closed at 5pm. It was beautiful but quite pricey. We bought some lemon cannelloni.

    Before heading back to our room at the Ship Inn we ducked in to a beautiful pub called the Old Custom House on the corner overlooking the tiny harbour. It was so nice we went back for their roast dinner being a Sunday night. Simo had a pork belly roast and I decided on Fish n Chips . The decor was lovely and many couples dining in tonight. As we left , it was raining 🌧️.
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  • SWC - Porthcothan to Newquay Day 2

    14 de octubre de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Monday 14th October - 20km walk to our Esplanade Hotel at Fistral Beach

    To our surprise we had a taxi pick us up after breakfast and drive us back to little Portcothan where we could pick up the track from yesterday.

    Today’s walk was very scenic with fine cliffs, little headlands and rugged coves. Our assents were around 670m (2200ft) which afforded us with wonderful views again across the Atlantic Ocean or The Celtic Sea. At times the path lead us very close to the cliff edge and the drop was quite sheer and very steep. It was challenging to go
    too close for risk of the cliff breaking off. I’m sure it wouldn’t but that’s how it felt. It’s very open with no barricades. We appreciated the ruggedness and natural beauty of the cliffs.

    We passed by a mob of black faced ewes without lambs and they were camped within metres of the edge of a cliff. Two female farmers came along in a ute and tipped a bucket of feed out in to the paddock. The ewes were reluctant to budge from their cliff hangout but eventually they ran through a gap in the stone wall and put their heads down to feed on the grain. It was cool to see a farmer in action.

    Our next highlight for the day was the Bedruthran Steps. They were rugged stacks spread along a beach. We were unable to access the beach as it was closed by the National Trust.
    At this point we met some other walkers from Bath and they took our photo. Simon was bear hugging me!

    Our lunch spot was a grassy cliff top today which overlooked the rugged coastline going South.
    We had more Cornish pastries from the bakery in Padstow. They were so yummy! 😋

    The rest of the hike was about another two hours until Fistral Beach where our beach hotel was located. Along the way we came across various beach resort style accomodation as we progressed closer to the big port town of New Quay. New Quay was a bit like Coffs Harbour or Taree. A bit of a dive so we hurried through to the other side where Fistral Beach was. It was getting close to 4pm which is when the ‘mizzle’ comes in on the Cornwall coast. Mizzle is the name the locals give the weather as it’s a cross between drizzle and mist.
    Anyhow the weather turns a little miserable after 4pm. We were surprised to see so many surfers 🏄 🏄‍♀️ 🏄‍♂️ still out in the water and they actually stayed out til after 7pm which was getting quite dark.
    Our hotel was huge and looked out to the west across the ocean. It would be a great spot to view a sunset but the mizzle spoiled that idea.
    Still a beautiful hotel where we enjoyed a bottle of Prosecco and a lovely dinner.
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  • Fistral Beach to Perranporth Day 3

    15 de octubre de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Tuesday 15th October

    We wondered along the grassy well carved out paths up and around and down a few more headlands. The cliffs weren’t quite as steep as the ones yesterday but nevertheless we were still afforded wonderful views across the ocean. We remarked how the overcast sky created a nice ambience for our walking experience and that it really felt like we were walking along an English coastline rather than an Australian one.

    After a couple of hours into our walk, we came across a small sign alerting us to the possibility of spotting seals. Polly Joke Beach was quite a remote area, with its rugged coast line and secret coves. It was in one of these isolated coves where we looked down about 60 or so metres below to discover of a colony of grey seals. It was simply incredible to observe them naturally playing, fighting and lazing about on their private sandy beach. They had no idea we were watching them which made it all the more impressive.

    There are two main species of seal living in the seas around the British Isles: the grey seal and the common seal. Surprisingly, the common seal is actually less common than the grey seal but both can found around the coastline and are protected species. Although common seal sightings in Cornwall are rare, grey seals are not. Just under half of the world’s grey seal population lives in the waters around Britain.

    Our lunch spot was at Holywell Bay in a 13th Century pub with a thatched roof. When we left the pub we noticed a lot of construction and tractors doing work down at the beach. Later we were told by some walkers that there was a film being made on the beach.

    We walked our final part of the coastline along precarious cliffs with sheer drops below. The drops to the ocean would have been about 80 or 90 metres. It was very windy too which made it a little scary as we were so close to the cliff edge. The cliffs gave way to a very very broad and long beach which we walked for a few kms before ascending up these huge grassy dunes. It was high tide so the dunes were the only option to get us to Perranporth, a fabulous little surfing holiday village.

    Our hotel room had big window views overlooking the sea which was at high tide. Felt like we were in a cruise ship with the water views.
    We decided to dine downstairs at The Steiners Inn as it was raining heavily outside. The pub had a lot of dark wood features and lots of character.
    After dinner we were treated by some unique singing from the Sea Shanty Group who were meeting to rehearse at the pub in a room next to the restaurant. They found out we were from Australia so they sang ‘ From South Australia I was born’. They also sang Scarborough Fair. They were very impressive.
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  • Perranporth to Portreath Day 4

    16 de octubre de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Our total distance today was 24km which may not sound like a great distance except for the huge accents. The total flights climbed were 141 with 32 000 steps !!!

    Our coast path consisted of narrow, stony paths with some short, steep ascents and descents overlooking rugged remote cliffs. We would often come across a network of paths and tracks that linked old tin mines around St Agnes and Porthtowan. We had to take care not to wander off the track as there would be old mine holes similar to Opal mines at Lightning Ridge.

    It was a fairly mindless walk which enabled us to switch off from the world. There were many occasions on this walk where we heard nothing but the distance sounds of waves below.

    We are staying tonight in the compact little harbour of Portreath. When we arrived we checked it out in 5 minutes and then headed down to the small beach area to watch the locals boogie board!! It was high tide and there were some huge rollers coming along a wall which appeared to make it a challenge for the local boogie boarders.

    Dinner tonight at the Portreath Arms and we scored a comfy leather couch in front of the fire 🔥
    Big walk of 29 kms tomorrow as we head to St Ives.
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  • Portreath to St Ives Day 5

    17 de octubre de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    We were so happy to set off on our 29km walk today as the forecast was 15c -16c and sunny ☀️.
    I decided to walk in shorts and a t-shirt which turned out to be a good idea as the weather stayed nice for most of the day.

    There were a couple of steep-sided little valleys to climb out of little Portreath where we stayed but after that we had easy cliff and headland walking to Godrevy Island. There were more grey seals beached in this area and we met Sue and her friend who were official seal surveyors. Their job was to take photos of all the seals 🦭. There were a lot in this particular group. About 25-30 seals but they were very boring as they were all asleep in the shade of the cliffs.
    Did you know ?
    A group of two or more seals can be called a pod or a bob. Other commonly used collective nouns to refer to groups of seals are harem, herd, and rookery.
    After a short stop on the headland overlooking Godrevy Lighthouse, we enjoyed a lovely long hour beach walk at low tide. The beach would be 4-5km long with views across to St Ives which was our destination. There were many people walking their dogs and the beach was again very broad due to an extreme low tide.
    Once at the end of the beach there was a deep channel that had no crossing so we had to make an hour and a half detour inland to get walk across a bridge. It wasn’t too bad as we spotted Canadian geese in the estuary below the bridge.
    We carry binoculars with us so we pulled them out to have a closer look.
    Once around the channel we made our way along cliff tops in to the beautiful St Ives. We walked through a very luxurious part of St Ives. The homes were huge estates with beautiful gardens and we also passed by beautiful resorts with amazing cabins overlooking the beach.
    We walked our way down in to narrow cobble streets of St Ives. After we found our BnB overlooking Porthmeor Beach and an old cemetery!
    We went out for dinner back at the St Ives harbour where every second place was a restaurant or a bar. The full moon was rising and shining across the little harbour and it looked so beautiful. We found a restaurant and lucky for us we had a fabulous upstairs window view of the full ‘super’ moon over the water.
    To our surprise after leaving the restaurant the tide had dropped and all the boats were on their sides high and dry in the harbour. The tides change quickly.
    Short walk tomorrow only 14km to Zennor.
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  • St Ives to Zennor Day 6

    18 de octubre de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    Friday 18th October

    From the first days of Christianity in Britain, St Ives is named after the legendary tale of a young missionary called St. Ida who according to her legend, floated here from Ireland on a leaf. The town grew with the development of the harbour during the medieval era.

    Simon had haddock and poached eggs for breakfast this morning. We remarked that it would never happen in Australia that you would have fish for breakfast!!

    We started our 14km walk through the fishing village of St Ives as we needed to pick up provisions for this section of the path. This particular part of the South West Coast path is known to be the most arduous but also the most scenic.

    There were a few other walkers on the track but not many as the weather was a little miserable today. We had mizzle (drizzle/mist) and quite blustery winds to contend with however it was still one of the best parts we have walked. Lots of high cliffs again and beautiful white granite rocks which we had to scramble over at times. Then there were the occasional streams to cross as they quietly flowed on down to the sea below.. The reddish orange vegetation that you see on the hills are small ferns that have died off after the summer. Their red tones make for interesting photos of the headlands. Walking this intensely rugged coastline, made you feel very small as a human being. The powerful sea below, the steep cliffs rising up, the huge boulders and the blustery strong winds almost carrying you off the headland, made me feel this more than ever today.

    We had our picnic of sandwiches and fruit on a huge granite rock by a stream that cascaded down to the sea turning it in to a waterfall which we could hear below us.

    We made it to our pick up point around 2pm. We were happy to step into the Tinners Arms pub at Zennor. How lovely to be in a toasty warm pub with a fire after being out in the misty rain for the last 4-5 hours. The pub was packed with locals having warm food and enjoying wine! The pub with its dark decor and low ceilings was quite the eye opener with its Halloween 🎃 decorations everywhere. Little orange pumpkins in the window, fake spider webs hanging over the bar. We had a squash while we waited for our taxi to take us back to St Ives.

    After a hot shower back at our BnB, we set off to explore the picturesque bustle of whitewashed fisherman's cottages, art galleries, independent shops, bars and restaurants of St Ives. We had a gorgeous Thai dinner overlooking the pretty harbour.
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  • Zennor to Cape Cornwall Day 7

    19 de octubre de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Saturday 19th October

    Today was sunshine all day and 15c. It honestly doesn’t get better for walking conditions. We had a 21km walk ahead of us today.

    The track was very similar to yesterday with sensational cliff views overlooking the wild sea below us. The track was a little muddy and wet however there were many large stepping stones that enabled us to keep our hiking boots dry.

    Being a Saturday there were many locals out on the track enjoying the sunshine. There were also trail runners out today and some cliff climbers. We got our binoculars out and watched about ten cliff climbers carefully make their way up very sheer cliff faces wild the rough and wild seas raged just metres below them.

    We had our picnic lunch at the Pendeen Watch lighthouse today. The swell was wild. We’ve never seen the waves so high and powerful. They smashed over rocks and exploded high in to the air.

    We finished our walk at Cape Cornwall once thought to be the most Westerly point on the South West Coast. It’s now Lands End just a few miles further up the track.

    Our tired legs managed to walk us a few more kilometres along the road in to St Just where our digs are tonight. It’s a quiet town. After a hot bath and shower we headed across the square to The Kings Head. A very traditional Cornish pub with low selinings and open fire places. Simo had the Lambs Liver on the special board. I chose fish n chips (hake) caught down at Penzance.
    After dinner we were walking out the door when some UK local hikers that we had met on the track earlier, called us over to their posie by the fire. We ended up joining them for a drink. It was interesting to get some insights into life in England from two couples. We had lots of laughs .

    We have walked 147km of this magic Cornwall coast path.
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  • Cape Cornwall to Porthcurno Beach Day 8

    20 de octubre de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    Sunday 20th October
    The forecast was raining and strong winds. We set off at around 9:30 am. A later start due to the rainy weather but it cleared off by 10. The main challenge was the strong winds today. I have never experienced wind so strong and it did not let up for the next 6- 7 hours of walking.

    Our first stop was a beautiful swimming and surfing beach at Sennen Cove. This was apparently a naval military training base back in war times. We are fortunate to be staying here tonight after our walk to Porthcurnan, thanks to a taxi transfer back. We also stopped at Sennon Cove Life Boat Station to check out a real life rescue boat. These stations are all manned by volunteers and are an important service for saving lives out at sea.

    Next stop was the Lands End. This place is considered to be one of the U.K.’s most treasured and famous landmarks. You can get your photo taken here at the lands and signpost. We chose to have our photo taken with
    Paddington Bear on his special seat because he was cute and it was free.

    Pressing onwards with the relentless wind still blowing at a gale force strength we were in awes of some Incredible rock formations past Lands End. It was hard to stop taking photos as the rock formations were so beautiful.

    Finally at around 5pm we descended down some rather steep steps to a beach at Porthcurno. Some people say that Porthcurno is the most beautiful bay in the world. There is certainly something magical about the combination of clear turquoise water and the white sand of this beach with the bold sculpture backdrop of the Granite cliffs. It is also fame for the Minnack theatre which was created in the cliffs in the 1930s. Porthcurno Beach reminded us of the Great Ocean Road.

    We stayed at The Old Success Inn at Sennan Cove. We were lucky to have a beautiful room with a lovely window overlooking the ocean. We popped it open so we could listen to the ocean all night.
    We deservedly enjoyed a beer together in the outdoor area overlooking the Atlantic Ocean.
    After a delightful dinner of salmon linguine and a nice Aussie Chardonnay, we called it a night and went upstairs to find something on the tele that was uniquely UK. We ended up watching Born Free, the true story about a lioness called Elsa. It was set in Kenya and made in 1966. I remembered watching this as a young child.
    The Old Success Inn at Sennan Cove is definitely a hotel we would love to have spent another night in mainly because of the view from our room so close to the ocean.
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  • Porthcurno Beach to Penzance - Day 9

    21 de octubre de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Monday 21st October

    Today is overcast but a lot less windy, which is really nice . I’ve decided today I’m not going to take ANY photos of scenery and instead I’m planning to find interesting signage that tells a a story about coastal life and the history of Cornwall and the Southwest coast of England.

    Our walk was very relaxing today as the sun was shining on our backs and the sea was so much calmer. It made for ideal walking conditions. It was still a long walk of around 20 kilometres.

    We had a quick stop at Mousehole (pronounced Mowzel), is a small fishing village situated just over three miles south of Penzance. It was once a busy harbour, famous for landing huge catches of Pilchards.

    As we walked on in the late afternoon towards Penzance we spotted a large fishing trawler just a few hundred metres of shore. We pulled out the binoculars and took turns to view the fishermen hauling the huge net in. Pretty sure there were haddock, hake and cod in the catch today. We saw these types of fish in fresh fish shops in the next harbour which was Newlyn.

    Newlyn is one of the largest fishing ports in the UK – the iconic harbour is central to the fishing industry in Cornwall.

    Finally we walked in to Penzance. Penzance is the largest town in West Cornwall, famous as an ancient market town and historic port. The town has a long history as a prosperous market town.

    We have now walked 190km of the South West Coast of Cornwall. Tomorrow is a rest day for our legs! We plan to go for a swim in the Jubilee Pool. One of its pools is geo thermal heated to around 28c. The sea water comes from 400m below ground. The other larger pool has natural sea water a temp of around 14c. We didn’t think we would venture in to that one!
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  • Penzance to Praa Sands Day 10

    23 de octubre de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Wednesday 23rd October

    Today’s walk was relatively easy just 15 km and the destination was Praa Sands. We started our walk through Penzance and then the path lead us around Mounts Bay. We had delightful views to Saint Michaels Mount.

    Mounts Bay is home to one of the largest submerged forests in Cornwell. At very low tides sections of trees emerge from the sands. The research says that trees have been there from between 4000 to 6000 years. Having spent thousands of years below the sand, these trees would’ve been well preserved and stretched across the bay in land and out to sea.

    St Michael’s mount castle is one of the most iconic castles in Cornwall. Once a priory and fortress, it's now a much-loved family home.

    Praa Sands Beach is a beautiful mile of fine white sand on the south-west coast that lies within Cornwall's National Landscape (formally known as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty); bordered by wild headlands and backed by grass-topped sand dunes.
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  • Praa Sands to Mullion Day 11

    24 de octubre de 2024, Inglaterra ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    Thursday 24th October

    Today was a lovely overcast day which stayed dry. It was a little breezy which enhanced the ambience of walking in Cornwall on the coast. The grey skies kind of made the ocean look a milky opaque colour all day so we saw lots of soft tones in the landscape.

    We stopped for coffee at Porthleven Harbourview cafe. It was a beautiful little harbour similar to Porthreath Harbour. Porth means port and there are many seaside villages that have Porth as part of their name making it a challenge to remember them.

    Porthleven was such a cute little harbour village to stop at and we found lots of little shops that were very unique. I ended up buying more tea towels from an artist who designed Rick Steins logos and merchandise. We stopped in at a shop called Lindy Lou where Simon bought some cute canvas bags for his kids. They were made in London and they’ll make beautiful gifts.

    It was a 20 km walk today, along paths with mostly the level ground. This made it a little bit easier and more relaxing. The only wildlife we came across were the Chouffs (Cornwall National bird ) and a tiny baby adder.

    The choughs have black plumage and brightly coloured legs, feet and bills and are resident in the rocky sea-cliffs of Cornwall. They have long broad wings and perform spectacular aerobatics.

    The adder is the UK's only venomous snake, but its venom is generally of little danger to humans. It’s a protected species as its population is declining.

    We stayed at Mounts Bay Inn tonight. After checking in and having showers we chillaxed in the room waiting to see if the sunset would happen at 6:15 but the usual clouds roll in from the Atlantic and we caught a feint pink strip above the cloud line. That was it!

    We had a drink at the bar downstairs. The fire was on and so we made ourselves comfy on the couches there. I could sleep here tonight!!
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