• Christopher Geis
  • Christopher Geis

Camino Santiago - Portuguese

Starting in Lisbon with a detour through Fatima Czytaj więcej
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    15 kwietnia 2025
  • Day in Lisbon before beginning Camino

    18–19 kwi, Portugalia ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Woke up to pitter patter on the windows. Steady rain all morning so I tried out my Pancho and went for Coffee. My 1st choice was closed due to their machine not working so I had so settle for 2nd best at Copenhagen coffee lab down the street. Pancho kept me dry - wish I had used my waterproof socks though. The afternoon cleared up after checking in to Turim Marques Hotel. My reservation was input for May 18, so I was delayed a bit, but the receptionist and Tee Travel worked through it quickly. Glad I checked in early. I spent the afternoon working my way to the start of the Camino to get my bearings and stopped in a quaint place for pizza and rucula salad. Yes, the avocado was added! Ir led back to the hotel and prepped for tomorrow - laid out my clothes, packed my bags, and got cleaned up. Czytaj więcej

  • Day 1 Lisboa to Santa Iria de Azoia

    19 kwietnia, Portugalia ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    I got a late start due to Simli coffee opening at 9, not 8. I decided to take an Uber to the starting point instead of having an extra 45-minute walk.
    I started off at the church of Santiago and walked down to the cathedral where there was a service. So, I decided to stay and enjoy the music and singing while praying before continuing. I also needed to find someone who could stamp my passport, which I asked the presiding bishop who humbled himself and found someone to help before busily getting ready for the next service. OK - at the time, I really wasn't thinking he was the bishop.
    Once I got my stamp, I was off on my journey looking for signs/arrows painted on the side of buildings/walls/poles.
    Notice the yellow arrows.
    It is a beautiful walk through town then along the river. I may have got lost walking through acanyon complete with homeless encampent, but I found my wY once on the other side and back in town. he day was mixed with sun and clouds with a spattering of rain just as I was able to duck into a Burger King of all things - one of my dads favorite places in his later years. He loved sweet potato fries. Sorry dad, no sweet potato fries in Portugal!
    The second half of the walk was on a foot bridge through an estuary. Peaceful, scenic, and full of wildlife.
    Today, I finished listening to An Introduction to the Spiritual Life by Brant Pitre. It is based on an audio/CD course I took several years ago. The main ideas I meditated on today were Jacobs Ladder scripture reading, Jacob wrestling with God, and the living water/holy spirit.
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  • 🙏🔥Happy Easter🔥🙏

    20 kwietnia, Portugalia ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    💕🪻🌷💐🌷🪻💕
    He is Risen❣️
    Alleluia❣️
    May you
    have a
    blessed & beautiful
    Easter❣️🙏
    💕🪻🌷💐🌷🪻💕

  • Day 3 - Endure

    21 kwietnia, Portugalia ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    The word for the day is endure. It seemed like everyone I met on the Camino.
    felt the same - and I met/saw at least 1/2 dozen or more. We were all pilgrims traveling together today from the outset. The Camino took us through
    Agricultural and industrial areas of town. The smell of fertilizer mixed with diesel mixed with the stench of standing water might as well have been in the sewer!
    About 45 minutes in, I also took a wrong turn - check out my Oura pic and video. Was it me or was it the arrows leading me astray? Please leave your thoughts in the comments.

    It was at this point that it started raining and didn't stop until about 30 minutes out from Azambuja, I was at least prepared - or should have been. I started out late after checking the weather report, and rain was supposed to have stopped late .morning with clearing in the afternoon. So, most of us left late in the morning, and I didn't wear my waterproof socks as I had done the day before not needing them. I needed them today. Oh, well.

    We walked along a road parallel to the train tracks. You could feel the rush of air as trains passed at high speed. Then, there was the rush of vehicles passing on the narrow rainsoaked road.

    Stopped for lunch - steak, fries, and rice - chef choice. He spoke no English and I no Portuguese so Google Translate to the rescue.

    Finally, we got off pavement just after lunch and on a path made of dg. Hopscotching between puddles was better than hopscotching cars. Then The Way became a mud pit. That's where I let a fellow pilgrim be our fearless leader. Sometimes you lead, so.eti.es you follow, and so.etimes you work as a team to make it through as we ended up doing each through the mud pit (of despair).

    My lesson for today - just endure some days and be open to lead, follow, or work together as a team to make it through.

    It was a good day - not great, but good
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  • DAY 4 - To The Pain!

    22 kwietnia, Portugalia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Finally was out of the city and industrial congestion today and promptly got lost among grape vines and other crops - along with some sheep. Started out early as today was to be. a 30 Km (20 mile) journey. Saw the Camino sign first thing, then never again. I was lost the entire day, but on a path passing by sheep, vineyards, train tracks, - all through agricultural farm land! I met a hard working and nice man from Pakistan working the fields. Saw a few others along my lost way, but no pilgrims. My highlight was seeing the herd of sheep! It made trudging through muck and mud worth being lost all day. I made it all the way to Santarem, er, Vale de Santarem, about 5.5 miles from my destination before my knees and feet gave out. I’ ve had meniscus knee surgery (3x) and foot surgery on both feet (at the same time). I knew 20 miles would put me to the limit and it did. Ended up Ubering the final 8.6 km. I decided I’d get a few more miles once in Santarém exploring. - which I did. My toes on both feet were red and swollen as well as my rt knee swollen from an injury I suffered at the end of March while in Bozeman. My nightly therapy has been a homeopath lotion mixture of arnica oil, comfrey, and dmso along with a host of other anti-inflammatory ingredients in addition to PEMF therapy. Check out research on these items. I started pemf after my last knee surgery in August and I have had just a couple migraines since vs having a couple per week. Yes, I brought my pemf machine and a massage gun! After all we have 20 kg per bag!

    I also started using my hiking poles and they help tremendously. I am using Leki brand, but any brand would work as long as they are the
    Right size and are used correctly.

    I am recharging/refueling in Santarem for the next couple of days. It is a beautiful city - a walled fortress! Reminds me of San Gimignano in Italy. I will post tomorrow all things Santarem - Casa da Alacova, 12 century host that bleeds! You got to see this, simply breathtaking, and much more.

    Another absolutely amazing day in Portugal!
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  • Day 5 - Inconceivable

    23 kwietnia, Portugalia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    That is to actually believe a Eucharistic miracle occurred and the host actually contains the flesh and blood of Christ. Watch the story:

    https://youtu.be/7Z5mR-uYpok?si=U0sHHJ0hGnZhH5e1

    And yes, The Santarém Eucharistic miracle has been scientifically tested and confirmed to contain human flesh and blood.

    Inconceivable, yet, truly amazing!

    Hat tip to Kim Hoke for recommending the stop. Wish I could have gotten a better picture, however the you tube video will have to suffice.

    I spent the day exploring Santarem and relaxing. I had scheduled a two hour massage. The massage therapist thought one hour would be enough and then she ended up spending 2 1/2 hours and not even finishing. I am feeling great ready to get started after another day off tomorrow to explore Fatima and Tomar.

    For those joining in Baiona - I accidentally exposed an item that everyone will receive upon arrival - can you guess what that item is? And no, it is not the Avocado on the mantle.
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  • DAY 6 - Fátima Detour

    24 kwietnia, Portugalia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Disappointment turned a welcoming surprise. Fatima reminded me of Matthew 21:12-13 Jesus at the Temple turning over tables having turned a place of worship into a den of thieves. I felt nothing spiritual here. I went in to Our Lady of the Rosary in Fatima to pray the rosary. After one decade I had to leave due to the distractions - people talking, children, adults alike - even talking on the phone. No respect or sacredness. Outside was just a big plaza with a museum on one side, the “offering” opposite where people would bring their candles they bought either next to the offeratory or at one of the many shops just outside the grounds. Then opposite Our Lady of the Rosary was a mega church which can hold up to 10,000 people. Then a path for people to walk on their knees toward the offertory. I ordered an Uber after 45-60 minutes to check out a castle. He was Brazilian and the 1st Uber driver who spoke English having lived in Las Vegas for 2 years prior to moving to Portugal. He became my tour guide for the afternoon taking me by the actual town of Fatima, before it was moved to where the apparitions took place, castel de Ourem, Castel de Almoural, ancient aqueducts, and eventually Tomar. He stopped and let me tour each place and was very excited to be able to show me around. I was equally excited. As we entered Tomar, I kept a lookout for Camino signs so I hopefully don’t get lost along The Way again tomorrow. I’ve been watching Nick Living Life on YouTube as he walked the Portuguese route 10 months ago. He has some great video footage if you want to check it out. Czytaj więcej

  • Walking with God

    25 kwietnia, Portugalia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Is always better than without Him. My 20.5 mile walk began on The Camino and pretty much stayed on The Way for the entire day in stark contrast to my previous 20 mile day which ended after 14.5 miles. The few times there were questions about the direction meant by the arrow another pilgrim would be close by to discuss. Or on one occasion taking from my previous inability to read the arrow correctly made the wrong decision but quickly turned around and corrected it. This time the arrow pointing left meant left not straight. With God anything is possible.

    Today was a day I had imagined the Camino would be like. Walking through the country, small towns, forests, vineyards, olive groves with sheep, goats, donkeys, cats and dogs. It was beautiful! 20.5 miles is a grind, especially on a national holiday. Portugal celebrates it’s Day of Liberty on April 25th so practically everything was closed. My chair came in handy yet again! I finally stopped at an albergue for a quick break and recharge with some espresso about an hour and half from Alvaiázere.

    I also started listening to Walking with God by Jeff Cavens and Tim Gray. They do an excellent job of bringing scripture alive in relation to the time period events occurred. Mixing in historical events of the world with bible passages. Listening helped me get past the exhaustion and allowed me to focus on relating scripture to history.

    Today’s tip for those joining in a couple weeks: trekking poles help tremendously when used correctly. See the you tube video below.

    https://youtu.be/lFZ6JGb5N3U?si=ZpE9v-G_YVcjlgjW
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  • O Bras No Mas!

    26 kwietnia, Portugalia ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Shaking off the dust of my shoes and getting out of Alvaiázere and away from this place - good riddance. Place filled with mold and mildew and musty smell, towels with holes in them, bedspread had stains on it. This place was disgusting. Hosts were also not very welcoming. Guests were looking where breakfast was - I passed and went to a local cafe. Czytaj więcej

  • DAY 8 - Over the Hills and...

    26 kwietnia, Portugalia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    pictures and videos.loaded for previous days as O Bras also didn't have their wifi working.

    Lots of elevation change today. Definitely more technical than previous days. Less paved road more hiking trails - rocky hiking trails. Also saw probably 5 dozen or more pilgrims heading to Fatima. Busy day on the Camino from the quietness of past days. Lot more bikers as well.

    It is planting season and there are many small farmers planting their crops, tilling the soil, and sowing their seed.

    My accommodations were a bit off the Camino today and I stayed the course overshooting my resting place by quite a bit and doubling back. Just following those signs! I’ll take tomorrow off and go to mass and enjoy a day of rest.
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  • Day 9 - Trust the Plan

    27 kwietnia, Portugalia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    I am often reminded that I am not in control. Although someone I once knew had a saying - if you are not in control, you are out of control. And, if you are out of control, you are not in control. He was massively always in control, until he wasn’t. May he rest in peace.

    Who actually believed I would simply Uber to the next town to attend mass? And not walk The Camino.

    God has a way of reminding me to trust! It was an hour walk to mass this morning. I had late breakfast at 9 and headed out. 30 minutes into my walk, I happened upon The Camino. So, I decided to forego mass and stay on the camino for the day. The Camino took me directly past the church just after mass started. Of course, I stopped in - prayed for everyone and got communion. After mass, a festival started with a procession through traffic. What a great way to start the day.

    The Camino took me through beautiful countryside and over foothills to Conteixa Nova, which is known for Roman ruins. Of course, I had to finish off the day with an Italian meal - a place with a 4.9 rating! The pizza was magnificent, and the pasta was even better. Homemade Italian sausage hit the spot.

    Met several pilgrims today - Mark, Mark and Cathy from Canada. I loved Marks hat - it was red with white lettering saying Canada is not for sale! Hah! We criss crossed paths all day, taking breaks along The Way. I met a fellow pilgrim - Rachel - who booked through Tee Travel and pretty much has the same itinerary up porto. She is traveling with Tammy but is on separate itineraries with differing stopovers. It is good to see a familiar face after a long day of walking/hiking.

    What is it with those chemtrails? I could literally see them forming into clouds.
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  • Into the Darkness

    28 kwietnia, Portugalia ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    You may have heard about the massive power outage in Spain and Portugal on April 28th. Yes, I am OK - better than OK.

    There's something I've been putting off addressing directly. Instead, I've referenced it now and then in previous posts. So, here it is. Throughout this journey, there has been this invisible force/influence guiding me along. Upon entering Coimbra, I passed a Super Mercado. I still had about 40 minutes of walking but thought it was worth stopping for some fresh fruit - avocado, an orange, bananas, some protein bars, and a milk chocolate Easter bunny. No judgment. After all, cacao is a fruit! Yes, it was at the checkout.

    Unbeknownst to me, the power must have gone out shortly thereafter.

    The Camino, for the most part, staying on course has been relatively easy to spot the yellow arrows or blue tile Camino signs. However, every signal time I have missed a sign, there has been someone who appears to help get me back on course. Oscar and Adrianna were the ones today. They are from Columbia and were the first pilgrims encountered today after about an hour of walking. I had passed a turn, something inside me hesitated, then my mind not seeing one of the signs, said The Camino wouldn't go that way. Within a few steps, I see Oscar and Adrianna up ahead out of nowhere. We both greet each other, buen camino, and they ask if I am doing Camino Santiago, which I replied yes! They said you missed the turn. It is back behind you. Sure enough, there was a sign pointing up the hill. We crossed paths again, exchanged numbers, and got pictures. I hope to cross paths with them again.

    Upon arriving at the hotel, the receptionist was in a surly mood, with the power being out and all. She had a printout of reservations but required a confirmation number to check in manually without power. I e plained twice that Tee Travel didn't provide me with confirmation numbers but that my luggage was transferred there and asked if it would be possible to look up the reservation by my name. She stated flatly no, she needs the confirmation number. After explaining and asking again, she said ok, what is your name, and quickly looked through her printout and stated there was no reservation. As I turned to leave, Yuri, from Norway, appeared with a map of the city and suggested a hotel near the university, which was quiet and quite nice. Really? Just knock me over the head, eh? So I still need to get to the hotel. I checked google Maps, and it is over a two hour walk. I tey Uber, it is working, how it was working when teying to call didn't work, well I'll let you decide on this one. Uber was 4 euro. Arriving at the hotel, I inquired about a room. The gentleman went to check and came back with 2 options - a smaller room with a twin bed or superior room with a king-size bed and a larger room. Guess which one I took? They checked me in without taking my credit card or cash.
    The 1st hotel wasn't willing to help, and this 2nd hotel was very accommodating and understanding.
    By this time, I was exhausted, so I took a nap before washing up and heading out to explore any options for dinner. Several larger restaurants were open serving drinks, and one had a generator - but no food. A small kebab shop was open, serving up hamburgers from a gas-powered grill. They put vegetables on their burgers like carrots and corn.

    Power just came on!

    The 1st time I noticed Gods hand along the way was passing by another sign in a small town and an old lady was sweeping in front of her cafe and started yelling at me in Portuguese. I don't know what she said, but replied obrigato on my way past her. That was several days ago.

    Now, it's time to get an Uber to pick up my bag.
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  • Dirty Laundry

    29 kwietnia, Portugalia ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    I walked by a great coffee shop just off campus. 1st proper espresso since Lisboa! I’ll be back there tomorrow for another espresso and mocha along with breakfast.

    I Got to go to the Lavandaria today and get clean clothes for the next week! Should be set until Porto!

    I Spent the afternoon/evening in recovery mode with a sauna, Turkish bath, and sports massage. Sports massage is deep tissue massage and is opposite of a relaxation massage.

    Another great pizza restaurant again in Coimbra. Pizzas were 7-9 Euro and were excellent. They do about 200 takeaways each night. You should have seen all the pizza boxes ready for the evening.

    I start back on The Camino tomorrow with rain predicted to be heavy at times. This was my last scheduled break from walking.
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  • Flying High Now!

    30 kwietnia, Portugalia ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    So what do you do on a rainy day when on the camino? Walk in the freezing rain? Tour the Cathedral in Coimbra and Uber to Mealhada? Or walk up a thousand steps (ok, only 125 to be exact) for a third time. I felt like Rocky 7 x 70(+2) times.

    Google ai suggested not to walk and to stay sheltered. For once, I agreed with Ai.

    Yep, I walked those steps again for the third time and visited the local cathedral near campus after breakfast at Nau Coffee. Yesterday, it was busy at the cathedral with lots of people roaming around inside. Today is completely empty. I was the only person in the cathedral! It was built in 1573 as part of the Jesuit University. Then, in 1759, the jesuit order was banned from Portugal. It was then remodeled with a heavy baroque style.

    Once I checked into Residential Hilario in Mealhada, I Googled a wine shop. What else is there to do on a rainy day?

    Lo and behold, there was one! An Uber costing 3 euros took 20 minutes to arrive and took me there. The owner, Rueben, spoke English and had a good variety of wine. As we talked, he invited me to lunch that he was preparing for his staff and friends. He does this almost daily. It was a feast! Papa frites, pork marinated in red wine, steak, shrimp, traditional cod dish which is mixed with potatoes and cream, caprese salad, bread, green salad, red wine, with kumquats for dessert along with a portuguese dessert wine followed by espresso.

    OK, best portuguese meal I’ve had thus far. Most of the guests had never eaten or even heard of what a kumquat is. We all had several and enjoyed them. We actually have a kumquat tree in Chula 6 I’ve never had one from our tree. I’ll have to compare. These were good - not sweet, almost like a sour tangerine.

    I felt blessed to be invited and be a part of a traditional Portuguese meal. I’ll continue my Camino tomorrow, which brings me directly past the wine shop - Bohemios.

    It is another holiday in Portugal tomorrow - Labour Day, so I expect most places to be closed.

    Just Living life on The Camino!
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  • Fruit of the Vine

    1 maja, Portugalia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Most families have a small vineyard growing their own grapes along with other vegetables and fruit. One thing I’ve noticed is everyone has a lemon tree, I don’t see many items with lemon so I wonder what they do with all the lemons? Each family pretty much have their own olive trees as well. The fruit is so much more flavorful here.

    Another holiday in Portugal today. Along with the blackout day that makes 5 out of the last 12 days where the country has basically been shit down with few places open along The Way. Left this morning to 47 degree temp, but it warmed ip nicely by the afternoon. Met a whole new group of pilgrims along the camino and met up again with Tammy and Rachelle. Andrea, Berkley, George (think French pronunciation) and another gentlemen from Romania and woman from Spain. Had lunch with the Romanian gentlemen and Andrea upon entering Agueda. They were all staying in Albergue’s which is most likely why I haven’t seen them previously. Most of the walk today was along paved roads not very exciting, but I did see a lamb and some great views.

    Tomorrow is only 10 miles so thinking of just going without my backpack to lighten the load.
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  • Road Kill

    2 maja, Portugalia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    At times it felt like I could be sideswiped by a bus, semi-truck, or car at any time. While it was a short day of walking, I started out at 8 am to beat predicted rain which never really developed until late. Most of the day was walking along the road - some highways, some narrow small town roads, and very little trails. Got to the ending point for the day at 11:30 am and transferred/Taxi’d back to Agueda for accommodations. I will Taxi back to the ending point from today Saturday morning and pick up from where I stopped today. The extra night in Agueda allowed me to not take my backpack and it was enlightening. I could have walked another 16 km! Thunderstorms are predicted for the next couple days so we’ll see whether I am able to avoid the rain. Looking forward to getting into Porto in a couple of days to start the journey along the coast.

    Met a couple gentlemen - Jose from Spain, and and Darragh from Ireland.
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  • Thunder, Lightning, and Train Tracks

    3 maja, Portugalia ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Updated Content!!!!

    I left Agueda today, was dropped off in Albergaria A Velha and walked to Oliveira de Azeméis. - about 20 k. I forgot to start my Oura app to track so not pick of my vitals.

    Walked mostly along roads today, other than on train tracks - and yes, it was on The Way! I even got a video of the sign showing The Way. Rain, thunder and lightning started about 30 minutes after arriving to the hotel. God is good and His timing is even better. Hotel has a pool table so will be playing some pool in a few minutes.

    Found another Italian restaurant and invited Darragh and Rachalle to dinner. Darragh invited Esmerelda, Erryn, and Terry. We all had a fabulous time and ate too much as usual. The three women will be taking a train tomorrow to avoid the rain, while Darragh hikes further than any of us to a love hotel complete with heart shaped beds. He claims it was the only place available when he booked it. Rachelle and I are at the same hotel tomorrow and may brave the rain together. It’s 16 K to Santa María da Feira so should be about 3 hours walk time.
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  • Power of Grace

    4 maja, Portugalia ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    What does Grace mean to you? I just started a new audio book - Power of Grace which dives into answering that question from a variety of perspectives.

    Rain was in the forecast throughout the day soI decided to start a bit later. My knees felt so good I decided to run a section as I was without my backpack again sending it along with my luggage. When I stopped, my poncho was gone from my pocket. So much for running. I turned around to backtrack and within 10 steps a pair of angels appeared - Allen and Alan from London with my Poncho in hand. I ended up walking with them for a time until they decided to take a break for an espresso before going up quite a steep hill. I tend to power up and recover on the down slope so it was a good time to part ways.

    I ducked into a mall during one downpour and then passed by a church with mass that had recently started just as I was pulling up the Sunday readings. Missed another downpour during mass. I was just in time to see a little girl be baptized. Walked about another hour before another downpour which I ducked under cover and wound up above a pasteleria. I was on and off the way but always found my way back. Never saw another pilgrim after Allen and Alan.

    Our 4 Star hotel mist have paid someone off as it was at most a 1 star hotel. Rooms were super hot which required opening the window to sleep even though you could here a couple dogs barking all night. Pick your poison - barking dogs or sweating through the night in a stuffy room.

    Ended the day with a beautiful rainbow after a very average portuguese meal of lamb shanks, rice and boiled cabbage. I am looking forward to octopus tentacles once on the coast and in Spain.

    I must have seen over 200 pilgrims heading to Fatima in the morning. It seems like everyone is on the Fatima pilgrimage for the May 13th anniversary of the 1st apparition. It will be packed there. Be prepared if you are planning a visit prior to joining the Camino de Santiago.

    To me, Grace encompasses something more than within, but includes what is within, what surrounds us, and emanates from a higher power - God. We refer to the Holy Spirit which is i. Is, with is and for us! I often recite the following prayer I learned a few years ago from my brother in law at a men’s retreat:

    Come Holy Spirit, live in my mind, dwell in my heart, and be my companion on this journey of life (or this journey along The Way).
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  • Flourish and Blotts

    5 maja, Portugalia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Arrived with a group of pilgrims into Porto today. There was one person from the Netherlands one person from San Francisco another from Poland someone from Austria, New Zealand, and Ireland so we had many countries represented. I also passed someone else from Spain. Porto is beautiful along the river It’s just a stunning city, but it is big and there are lots of people - a little different from the countryside that I’ve been walking through for the past two weeks after leaving Lisbon. met up with Tammy and her husband, William, and Rachelle for dinner and then went to a wine bar called Scarlet, which has locations in Porto, Bangkok, and Hong Kong.

    The walk today was mostly downhill with a few uphill portions, walking and various settings, heavy traffic, old Roman roads forest, and then eventually the suburbs of Porto and then down to the city of Porto.

    A famous bookstore called Livraria Lello which is where JK Rowling is said to have been inspired during a 1991, while writing the 1st Harry Potter Novel and is used as its basis for Hogwarts and the wizardly bookstore in the Harry potter universe. . It is so popular now that you have to go online and purchase tickets for the privilege of entering their store, but is well worth the 10 euros.
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  • Marathon Walking

    6 maja, Portugalia ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    I decided to hang out in porto for the morning and get a late start after checking out at 12 noon. I enjoyed a proper espresso, although the mocha was too sweet. Then toured a bit of the city and collected stamps at a few places. The 1st stop was the Cathedral - upon arriving there were a swarm of military officers and police - a very busy place. I found out there was a military service just starting which I was able to enjoy for a portion of it.

    I picked up my Camino shell at the Cathedral for 2 euro and paid another 3 to tour the inside and take part in the mass. You can duck into a store in Porto and get a nice colorful shell or pick up a white one with a cross added in red at the cathedral. Most pilgrims hang them from their backpack and is just a cool memory to take away with you.

    I was to train from Porto to Matasinhos then walk 27km to Pavoa do Varzim. Since my hotel was right on the river I decided to walk along the river front which was part of the camino, to Matasinhos, then walk until I was too tired or it got dark. I took a few breaks - lunch and dinner, and made it all the way to the hotel just after 9 pm with about 10 minutes of light left. 26+ miles in all! Total walking time was around 8 hours - I failed to restart my app after both lunch and dinner - note the gaps in the walking line.

    In my mind, I was thinking that doing the extra km’s would make up for the rain day when I had my best Portuguese meal. It was also a personal challenge as I had always wanted to do a marathon, but only had the opportunity to do a Rock-n-Roll relay marathon with three others. I completed 6.25 miles and was wrecked after, then my body started breaking down - knee surgeries, foot surgeries, etc… I have had way too many surgeries in my life and my body just would not hold up to running a marathon - but walking? Hey, that may be and is possible. It helped that the entire day was flat ground or on raised boardwalk along the beach.
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  • Isolated Amongst the Crowd

    7 maja, Portugalia ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    It was a shorter walking day - only 20 km or just over 12 miles + walking around town. Most of the day was along the beach on raised wooden boardwalk. We passed by a golf course, football training camps, and through beach communities before settling into Esposende. So many more pilgrims! How I long for the days prior to Porto. Quiet, peaceful, solitude, with a camaraderie between fellow pilgrims. Not so thus far after Porto. Funny, while there were days of not seeing anyone, there was a connectedness that is missing since Porto. Is it possible with so many more pilgrims to feel more isolated? The residents also don’t seem as happy, I rarely here a Bom Dia from passersby’s, whereas, just about everyone would greet you along the way!

    I did stop in a cafe for a free stamp - that seems to be a much more common option past Porto. Prior to Porto, there weren’t as many places with stamps or that advertised providing stamps like after Porto.

    They had an Italian Pizza and Pasta restaurant nearby right on the beach so I went there for happy hour and dinner and enjoyed homemade buffalo ricotta cheese - yum! While ordering I asked for the vegetarian bruschetta and for a meatless pizza. The waiter asked if I was vegetarian which I laughed and said no, then realized I stayed away from any meat selections.
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  • Mini me for a mini hotel!

    8 maja, Portugalia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Today we ventured away from the coast and boardwalks and back to the foothills. It reminded me of Santarem to Porto with the main difference was rarely used roads so it was mostly foot traffic. I decided to count how many pilgrims I passed or that passed me - I passed roughly 5 dozen + pilgrims while only 1/2 dozen passed me (they were all biking the camino). Leaving earlier helped with the crowds - so early to bed, early to rise makes a person healthy, wealthy, wise and filled with peace along the Camino. Beautiful river and hiking trail in the middle of the walk lulled me into the false reality that I’d be alone most of the day. Not so, as soon as I crossed the river, I ran into other pilgrims almost constantly. We hiked up, up, and up - it seemed like it was constant up hill - I was tested on my power up through the uphill to relax on the way down, but was able to persevere through the uphill struggle. Just when you thought the uphill portion was over, you’d turn a corner only to see another imposing hill! All in all it was a beautiful walk and have varying scenery - I even got to pet a ram through the fence - it was very friendly. The descent into town was beautiful! Another city along a river. - Viana do Castelo.

    The room that was booked felt like a cracker jack box it was so small plus there was a strong odor from their cleaning agent, whether it was bleach based or ammonia based it overwhelmed my sense of smell. Feeling like staying there could trigger a migraine, I googled for an alternative hotel and found a gem of a place - antique furniture, only a few rooms, space to unwind, and most of all it didn’t have that overwhelming odor. So, I checked in there and only brought an overnight bag as I didn’t want to lug my suitcase roundtrip since the transfer service is picking it up from the mini-hotel.

    I will try to leave earlier tomorrow with only about 11-12 miles so should be a quick 3 1/2 hours on the Camino.
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  • Dark as Night

    9 maja, Portugalia ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Ok - while not quite but we had quite the thunderstorm rolling off the oceanI had originally stopped at a little café right on the Camino. There were about a dozen other pilgrims arriving as well. While I got a table and invited other pilgrims to join since there weren’t enough tables for each group, the other groups split up and got in line for their coffee and pastry. So, I decided to put my pack back on and head out for the next café it was just down the road. About halfway there rain drops started to falling on my head then they started getting heavier and came down quicker. I ended up jogging the last hundred yards or so to the next café. It was a tiny café, more local than Pilgrim. However, there were two other pilgrims - a couple from Germany that had just entered along with about half a dozen locals who entered just after I entered. The Germans and I hunkered down for about an hour and a half until the rain subsided the thunder stop the lightning abated and we took off that little thunderstorm dropped the temperature and it was cold.

    Before all the fun started I had a great morning even though it was a bit brisk, but not too cold. Lots of greenery I ran across a few cows and was just enjoying the morning. The one difference from walking along the boardwalk on the coast after Porto is that in this region it seems the coast is used for agriculture. Long ago or the days where we’d be passing by Vineyards and Olive Grove and individual farmland which was all local farming - now it seems like the farmland is all larger plots not just individuals planting theircrops.
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