Nepal 🇳🇵

May - July 2024
  • Johanna Budde
Nepal - Just a short visa run from India or a country where I will get stuck?
Welcome to the country home to the highest mountains of the world....
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  • Johanna Budde

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  • Nepal Nepal
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Around the world, Backpacking, Friendship, Hiking, Nature
  • 750kilometers traveled
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  • 30footprints
  • 52days
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  • Ulleri - ghorpani

    June 5, 2024 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    After two hours of rain while trekking yesterday motivation went low. But day 2 of trekking turns out to be quite scenic and free from rain. We arrive and Ghorpani (the base of Poonhill) really early and still with low expectations. We should be able to see the Annapurna peaks by now but all we can see is in fact an unbreakable looking wall of clouds.
    I am still in love with this trip. Love beeing in the mointains. I mean: I am in the Himalayas my friends.
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  • Poonhill top

    June 6, 2024 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    I don´t know what it is. Maybe its luck, maybe its Henry´s birthday magic or maybe we were just meant to see this.
    The two blind idiots wake up and see a wall of clouds and fog. Luckily we are just two idiots and the fog turns out to be dust on the glass of the window.
    Like Buddha would say: We didn´t saw the true reality of things, we coul not see things clearly.
    Going out we see the reality, which is a super clear night, a sky full of stars and the shodows of the mountains in the backgroud.
    And the view on Poonhill comes close to magic, the world is so beautiful that my eyes fill up with tears. I see my first mountain higher than 8000m. I am feeling blessed and grateful.

    "The feeling is like Bliss dancing inbetween the synapses of my nervous system" Quote: me May 2024
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  • Operation poonhill successfull completed

    June 7, 2024 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Anthony´s forecast: "The hardest part of today will be the bus"
    Anthony´s forecast was 100% correct.
    After an easy hike down we take the bus from Ghandruk back to Pokhara. 3h hours turn into 6h. I have a baby on my lap and a woman sleeping on my shoulder. People hanging outside of the bus. Sometimes the road is blocked. Sometimes the tyres are dangerously close to the edge. Sometime they are not on the road anymore...
    We make it to Pokhara alive and treat us with an amazing dinner and french cheese.
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  • Operation Mardi Himal

    June 16, 2024 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Das erste Mal, dass ich diesem Buch nicht nur meine Worte stehen. An dieser Stelle und den darauf folgenden Seiten die Zusammenfassung von Henry über den gesamten Trek:

    Hi y’all!

    I just returned from an absolutely amazing trek! Me and my friend JoJo combined the Mardi Himal trek and the Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) trek into one 9 day trek.
    We climbed to the Mardi Himal base camp and after descending we crossed a few rivers and started right back up to Annapurna base camp. Until around 3,600 m (11,800 ft) we climbed through gorgeous and extremely foggy forests and from there on its fields of grass and beautiful flowers. Mardi base camp is around 4,500 m (14,763 ft) and ABC is at 4,130 m (13,582 ft).

    It is off season now which means there are very few other trekkers on the trails and in the guest houses (and things are cheaper), which is amazing. Enough people to socialize and sometimes play cards with but not enough to clog the trails. We didn’t go with a guide because the trails are mostly well marked and it gave us much more freedom and flexibility. There is also this sort of inside knowledge game where during low season you can ask to get lodging and/ or a hot shower for free if you eat a meal or two at a guest house. Without the cost of a guide or lodging we saved a lot of money overall.
    However, there are a few key reasons it is the off season. It is hot, super rainy for parts of the day (there will be full-on monsoon rains for several hours of the day), super foggy much of the time and there are leeches. But the heat is bearable and the rain just means we have to time our trekking for dryer periods of the day (usually mornings) and sometimes walk in wet boots. The fog means we don’t always get great views and have to get lucky to see the amazing mountains (I’ll get to that soon), and the leeches are truly some of the most horrible, vile, unpleasant creatures I have ever had the displeasure to interact with. On the way up and down Mardi Himal there were so so many of these fucking demons. They are disgusting, really durable and have hirudin in their saliva, which is an anticoagulant that causes their bites to bleed for a ridiculously long time… almost all my socks are stained with blood now. They are the real-life version of dementors in that they are the embodiment of misery, they try to suck out your blood/soul and the best way to feel better after they attack you is by eating chocolate.

    Life tip: you can get leeches off and kill them with salt or bug spray

    The weather changes really fast on the mountains, especially the fog. The valley+sky can be completely clear and in a few minutes can be full of fog with zero visibility. At times it gets so bad you can’t see more than 5 meters in any direction. However, this gives a great opportunity to put the focus on the immediate surroundings of the forest, which are really beautiful and likely ignored if the mountains were always out. A major benefit of being here during this season are all the flowers, fungi and mosses that aren’t growing during the dry season. The fog is also an interesting invitation to look inward and do walking meditations, which I found to be valuable. Plus it made it feel like you are walking in the edge of the world out on the edge of nothingness.
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  • Mardi Himal Day 2

    June 17, 2024 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    FROM FOREST CAMP TO HIGH CAMP (2500m)

    We had some brutal days of trekking along the way but the challenge was as brilliant a part of the journey as any. And we met some interesting and fun people along the way. JoJo and I trekked separately because the two of us move at very different speeds but I would wait along the way. We would use flashlight flashes, whistles and yells to stay connected through the fog. We also went very fast. Compared to how long the signs and locals said it would take to get places we were able to take in general 3/4 or less of the time. There were tons of dogs on the mountains and they would accompany us / guide us along the way.

    We didn’t get to see anything at all from the Mardi base camp or view points but we got some good views from high camp. And the landscape around base camp was beautiful so we spent some time exploring the area.
    (High camp pics)

    Then we climbed down and back up a different mountain heading towards ABC. We hiked up until Machapuchhre base camp the day before making it ABC so we could hike to ABC for sunrise. We walked up to ABC along a path at over 4,000 meters that was illuminated by the full moon with views of stunning mountains. I was guided up through the night by a dog who also joined me back down for a long while. We got to base camp and watched the sky and mountains light up including some of the most unbelievably beautiful mountains I’ve ever seen. Some of the notable mountains we could see were Annapurna 1 (8,091 m/26,545ft), Annapurna 3 (7,555/24,787), Annapurna South (7,219/23,684), Gangapurna (7,445/24,459) and Machapuchhre (6,993/22,943) which is a twin-peaked, holy mountain that has allegedly never been summited.
    As I said before, during this season you have to be lucky to see any of the mountains even for a short time but sometimes the sky really clears up and we got insanely lucky on the morning we went up. It was totally clear for a really long time and we had a truly special show. The mountains are just so spectacular and at points almost looked on fire with the sunrise lighting up their peaks. We even could hear an avalanche happening far in the distance on the side of Annapurna 1. The mountains have an immense and powerful presence that is absolutely amazing.
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  • Mardi Himal Base Camp

    June 18, 2024 in Nepal ⋅ 🌫 5 °C

    FROM HIGH CAMP TO BASE CAMP (4500m) AND BACK --> because of horrible judgement of the both of us, we might have ended up a bit higher...

    Almost the whole day going down the mountain was equally clear and we got to trek in the sun along a beautiful river in a valley that was totally new to us because it had been so full of fog during the trek up. There were crazy waterfalls and mountains and river formations that we hadn’t previously had the chance to see. We even got the opportunity to collect some trash as a small act of gratitude to the wonderful place we were traveling through.
    (Way down pics)

    The trekking routes and the guest houses are supplied and kept running by local people and their mules who work insanely hard to maintain the trails, build the guest houses, run the guest houses and bring supplies up and waste down the mountains. As such we have a lot of gratitude towards these super hardworking people who made the treks possible.

    Here is a picture of just one of many Nepali people carrying a ridiculous load up a slippery and steep path.

    The last 15 minutes of the trek were spent running with our big bags down through a town, across a beautiful bridge overlooking the valley and then up through another town to catch the bus back to Pokhara... because of course, no matter which country I am in I seem to always manage to be late for the bus. But we caught it and the following ride was the bumpiest bus ride I have ever taken. We drove on a road that was more like a hiking trails and was only a road because the bus drivers here are skilled and crazy enough to send it. It seemed like these people saw mules walking on a trail and said, “well if the mules can do it so can a jeep… and if a jeep can do it, so can a bus.”
    I was catching crazy air time on some of the bumps and people and their things were bouncing all over the bus. This drive would have been tough on a ATV but this driver managed it with a big ass bus (and it’s probably totally routine for him at this point) even with parts of the road blown out by landslides, boulders strewn all over the path, narrow roads, tight turns and vehicles going the other way.

    I would be remiss if I didn’t include a section about the fluvial brilliance I witnessed on this trek. The rivers here follow different “rules” than they do in the Appalachian mountains and around our area in the mid-Atlantic. The Himalayan mountains are so much younger than the Appalachian mountains (the Himalayas started forming ~40-50 million years ago while the Appalachian mountains started forming ~1.1 Billion years ago) so the geographical features are more jagged, include significantly steeper slopes and more variable terrain in general. This makes the way that the rivers form much less predictable and totally differently interesting than those in the Chesapeake Bay and Mississippi River watersheds that I’m used to! The rivers I studied in school and usually see up and down the east coast mostly all follow the same structural patterns from top to bottom (waterfall -> cascade -> step-pool -> plane-bed -> riffle-pool) but the rivers here go back and forth between different formations and structures in super cool and beautiful ways!
    (River pics)

    Braided section of the river

    Here are some Yak-cattle hybrids called dzos that live along the path at higher altitudes. If you go even higher there are pure yaks but we haven’t seen those yet.
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  • Leeches attack

    June 19, 2024 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    FROM HIGH CAMP DOWN TO REST CAMP (just a litlle above forest camp)

    Fertig mit dem Text von Henry... Dieser Tag war beeindruckend unspektakulär. Und es war der Tag, an dem ich kurzfristig überlegt habe ABC nicht mehr zu machen. Eigentlich wollten wir um einiges weiter runter. Aber nach Verlaufen und dem absoluten Leech Horrer war dieser sehr frühe Stop nötig. Und der Abend hat meine Energien wieder aufgeladen. Gutes Essen, Handy geladen und Sachen getrocknet. Weiter gehts!Read more