Camino Santiago Portugese

april - juni 2023
  • Tammy Hansen
April 29 - May 22, 2023 along the coast of portugal, then inland at the Lima River to finish in Northern Spain. Meer informatie
  • Tammy Hansen

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  • 500afgelegde kilometers
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  • 27Footprints
  • 35dagen
  • 224foto’s
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  • Insanity: Arcade to Pontevedra

    16 mei 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    I left my too big, two-bedroom apartment in blue collar Arcade this morning via another Roman bridge. This one sports a thin sidewalk right next to a working roadway. I can see drivers’ eyebrows as they whiz past.

    Eh, ya seen one Roman bridge…I don’t dawdle.

    It’s more than personal safety driving me off the bridge. I’m suffering from historical architecture overload today. The stone homes and medieval churches heading out of town are beautiful and interesting. They’re also ubiquitous. They’ve been ubiquitous since day one.

    Also, my foot still aches, so the hilly suburbs north of Arcade, no matter their quaintness, do nothing to lighten my mood. Which I’m sure is a contributing factor to my response when the path crosses a road and enters a shady, wooded area. I am suddenly thinking of Pennywise the Clown, and Steven King’s fictional New England towns studded with forested parks where all kinds of kids go missing.

    So…yeah….kinda in a bad mood.

    Still, the forest path is undeniably beautiful. It follows a river. And then, over the sound of water, I hear music. I’ve reached the bagpipe guy! This famous fellow plays pretty much every day for pilgrims. He’s talented, which is important for an instrument that often sounds like the player is squeezing a bag of cats to death. But this is lovely, yowl-free music.My mood lifts with the tune. It’s the kind of magic I needed today.

    The path continues to climb ( of course) through the forest, the substrate changing from carved stones to jumbled boulders to gnarled tree roots, and then back though the repertoire. If I don’t watch where I put my feet, I’ll fall for sure. But no bloodthirsty clowns have shown up, so things are looking up even if I can’t.

    I get a pilgrim’s stamp from a fellow with a donativo stand along the path, the first of many. He’s giving everyone directions to the alternative path that skips the industrial section of town. Nice guy. Just a bit further I come across a length of steel grid fence into which perigrinos have woven hundreds of crosses made from sticks and bark found on the path. I also encounter a repeating chalked pink heart on the path’s stones. The pilgrims before me have felt the angst of these last few climbing days, so have left messages of encouragement. More magic.

    There’s an element of insanity necessary in walking 10-plus miles a day with only a vague idea of what the Camino or the next stop will throw at you, good and bad. But it’s a magical insanity. At some point today, I gave in to it. Supernatural spider or bagpipe lullabies, I say, ‘Bring it!’

    I am, however, still alone and craving the sound of my own language. Some 200 or so pilgrims have zipped past my hobbling self today. They travel in packs, speaking Spanish and German and French. Sometimes someone will give me a worried look as they wish me “Buen Camino,” but everyone is in a rush to get a bed or a beer at the next town.

    When Richard and Moira wander up behind me speaking Canadian English, I pounce. They’re happy to have my company, and they’re in no hurry. Richard comments on the happy birdsong, and Moira stops to take pictures of butterflies. They are perfect company for this bit of Into the Woods travel.

    We reach the big city of Redondela in the afternoon. I take a left at the roundabout, scurrying across the street. But Richard and Moira are going straight. I turn around to find them across several lanes of afternoon, big city traffic. We’re all too worn out to regroup. Moira waves and hollers across the traffic:

    “It was lovely walking with you today, Tammy.”

    I have just enough time to snap a photo of them scurrying across an intersection, and then ‘poof!’ They’re gone.

    This is an integral part of the magical insanity of the Camino. You make some friends only to lose them a couple of hours later.

    It’s ok. I don’t need the Canadian couples WhatsApp number. We came though the magical wood together and went our merry ways. And now I’m humming ‘No One is Alone,’ from Sondheim’s Into the Woods. This is a significant improvement over this mornings sewer clown imaginings.
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  • Golden Girls: Pontevedra-Barro

    17 mei 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Walked along a train track today a la ‘Stand By Me’, but the crew I joined up with definitely had more a Golden Girls vibe.

    Soon after leaving Pontevedra’s lovely Old Town Shopping District (complete with Burger King in an ancient stone building), I run into Omaha sisters Ellen and Amy, childhood friend Jerry, of Phoenix, and “California Kelly”. Within minutes of starting up a conversation, someone drops an F bomb about all the walking. It’s followed by a crack about wine and ibuprofen.

    ‘No way I’m letting these ladies get away from me,’ I think. ‘These are my people.’

    What follows is a raucous day of story sharing and shit talking. The three friends are of my generation. Kelly is a youngish mom they adopted about 20 minutes before I came along. My foot was already feeling better (thanks in part to last nights Vicodin, because something had to give), but there’s nothing like a gaggle of kvetching midwesterners to make you forget your troubles and pick up the pace.

    We share life stories. We share our favorite freaky “Twilight Zone” episodes. We share lunch. The sisters, who are Catholic, can rattle off the specifics of the Fatima story as quick as they come up with a one-liner. How’s that for a combination?

    Within a couple of hours, they are giving me shit about my navigation skills. “Well, Tammy said we were three miles away five miles ago,” becomes a repeating jab from Jerry. I feel loved.

    Ten miles goes by like buttah, but I have to peel off at Barras while they trudge on to Caldas de Reis. I give hugs all around and collect What’s App numbers so we can stay in touch. Some folks you lose along the way. Some you keep.

    The next morning, the Omaha Three and Cali Kelly crew are checking on me after a harrowing stay in a private home, but that’s another story.

    Chances are slim I’ll see this crew again. They have limited time so are walking more miles per day. But I’ll hear from them when they reach the finish line and will cheer virtually for their accomplishment. Because they are part of my Camino family - the ones I’d want to sit with at the big family gathering, cause they’re the fun crew.

    What a happy, happy day it’s been.
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  • Ghost Story: Barro to Caldas de Reis

    17 mei 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    I took a wrong right turn trying to find my off-stage accommodation in Barro. Then I took two more right turns to end up about a quarter mile from where I started. Two brutal uphill miles walking while trying to reach an unresponsive landlord, and I was toast. My total miles today was to 14.5 and the equivalent of 23 floors. I’m past tired. Again.

    Now, I’m chilling in a house with some definite “Shining” vibes. I’m pretty sure the young guy I’m renting the room from inherited the place. The deceased parents’ stuff is still everywhere. Think dark, formal, old furniture. Think mahogany paneling and candles. I am completely alone, but I’m pissed about getting lost, so I figure the least this guy can do is let me lose his laundry room. I go looking for a washing machine, and instead find two rooms with musty old beds and dressers partially covered in plastic. I find a chest freezer. A really, really big chest freezer. I think, ‘Jeffrey Dahmer could fit, like, four bodies in there. Whole.’

    Back in the room, I count the track and field trophies on the dresser. Thirty five.I count again. Thirty seven. “All work and no play make Jack a dull boy.”

    I’m creeping myself out. Just because the downstairs pantry is filled with, like 10 jars of pickled garbanzo and white beans and there is a bloody raw steak on a plate in the fridge (for me?) does not mean crazy people live here. I will just lock myself in my room and wait for the host to arrive around 10. But, there is no lock on the door.

    There are times I just have to say, ‘Quit it,’ so I just stop thinking about the little guest notebook and the glowing review of the host’s piano playing. Cause, there is no piano in this house. I assume I will have nightmares here, but instead I dream I am a professional ice skater and Owen Wilson wants to marry me. Benefit of exhaustion. I’m too tired to be scared in my dreams.

    I am awakened the next morning by noise in the house. “Hello?…Hello?” I’m thinking it’s either the host, finally, or my baggage transfer service.

    Nope. It’s some guy from a construction crew wandering down the hall with a window casing. “We’re just here working today,” his boss tells me.

    I hightail it out of there.

    Not a great stay, but certainly memorable. But really…who was that steak for?
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  • Bonked: Caldas de Reis to Lestrove

    20 mei 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    This day is my last long walk, which is a good thing because I have no more long walks in me. And, as the day progresses it turns out I don’t really have this one in me.

    I do it, but it ain’t pretty.

    I start down the Camino after a relaxing stay in lovely Caldas de Reis, where I wandered along the river and had ice cream for dinner. It was about five or six miles to get to the small city. Still, I’m bone tired as I head our for a 12 or 13-mile day. I know what bone tired means now, intimately. It means all your soft tissues have surrendered, and your skeletal forward motion is all you have left.

    Santiago is close, and this may be my last long walk. I am consciously attempting to soak it all in. This is not easy because the tour busses have arrived. These luxurious monstrosities are filled with clean, per,y pilgrims who swoop into towns and, I cannot lie, annoy the shit out of me. The busses disgorge them at one end of the Camino and pick them up at the other. Bus pilgrims can skip the hills if they like.

    I am trying not to be salty. It isn’t working.

    As I hobble and groan my road
    -weary way along the last of the forested pathways, I am in the moment. The morning sun gives the ferns their own glowing life and lights the edges of the oak leaves aflame. Ahhh.

    Several dozen bus people jabber past. They are loud, and American.

    “I don’t even like social media any more….” “And then she says to me…” “Oh, I only drink bottle water here…” “…hotel…” “…daughter…” “…dinner…”

    It’s DIFFICULT to be one with nature right now. I finally find a pace, about a 30-minute mile, that keeps me between these gaggles of folks who, without meaning to, are seriously harassing my mellow. It’s an imperfect plan. At one point a guy is blithely sitting dead center of the stone walkway over a creek, lighting a cigarette.

    But I do manage about 5 miles of connecting with the mockingbirds, and moss covered trees and the glowing morning sun. The chipper birds are singing up a storm. There’s a river below the path. I hear it constantly, and it occasionally sweeps alongside the Camino so I can glimpse the clean, bright water. There are a couple of horses along the way. I like horses.

    Somewhere between mile 5 and mile 6, my body revolts. Not like the French storming the Bastille, but like a pissed off toddler fighting a nap. My pace slows to about half of normal and my brain turns to oatmeal. This is the point at which exhaustion and pain merge to become one lumbering beast.

    I want to soak up the small farms and hamlets I’m passing, but I know if I take my eyes off the cobbles or gravel or dirt in front of me I could trip. And if I trip my feet will crumble like graham crackers, and my ankles, calves and knees will follow suit. Then I will flump forward, never to rise again. I consider a taxi. Even in its oatmeal state, my mind rejects the notion. I have not come this far to call in a lifeline.

    So I keep moving forward…not so much walking as perambulating. Bus people who pass increasingly look concerned and offer a worried, “Buen Camino?”

    I am the grumpy old woman waving them on, mumbling incoherently. “Gedda, gedda air conditioning…fancy shoes…gedda gedda…”

    My accommodation is off the path, of course. I trod a half mile through farmland into a mean headwind. A dust devil attacks me. “Gedda, gedda… dust teeth….”

    In a final moment of clarity I just have to laugh. I take a selfie for my friends, my hat at full mast and my cooling scarf flying. Life is ridiculously hard sometimes.

    I finally reach the family hotel where I’m staying and I literally, not figuratively, lay my head upon the reception desk. I am THIS CLOSE to a full meltdown. The receptionist does not care a whit. She is rude. She checks me in without even looking at me, then waves over at my suitcase. (I carry a pack with basics, but send my other stuff ahead via courier.) I’m going to have to haul it up about 30 steps to my second floor room.

    Friends, I have never been so tired that I can’t carry my suitcase up a flight of stairs. Today I am. I sit on a couch at the foot of that climb and ponder it for about 20 minutes. Then, with my last ounce of will, I ascend, dragging the bastard thump-bump one stair at a time.

    When I arrive in my (not kidding) attic room, I call Jake. Because I need to cry very, very much. He bears witness to my meltdown, offering loving support. He also teaches me a new word.

    I, he informs me, am bonked. This happens to hikers when they have pushed themselves past the limit; when electrolytes go bye-bye and continued forward motion becomes a sort of body-mind meld insanity.

    This has not been the mindful last big push I wanted. Still, I didn’t give up. Maybe I should have, but I didn’t. I am about a dozen miles and two days from Santiago. Today has been one of the most physically demanding of my life: 13 miles and the equivalent of 14 flights of stairs. It sucked.

    Buts it’s also part of the story: The Day I Bonked.

    Hard.
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  • Short and Sweet: Lestrove to Picarana

    20 mei 2023, Spanje ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Today was eight easy miles. Because I am now a person who walks eight miles and says “pffft.”

    After breakfast I find my way easily back to the Camino. I run into a bus group outside a church in Padrón. The guide is leading about 50 people in funny calisthenics. I gotta get away from these guys. I can’t outrun them, so ultimately end up stopping for an espresso and a pee break. I have reached the stage In remembered Spanish vocabulary that Spanish speaking people think I am fluent. This is problematic. the cafe worker and I do, however, share an “Ay, Dios mio” as the bus people gibble-gabble by. Dang, they’re loud.

    I’m still walking slowly, but it’s a good day. There’s a bit of forest, some farmland, and the edge of a hamlet to enjoy. I spend some time in a sweet church and light a candle for a friend. (I’m not Catholic, but she is.) I say hello to a statue of not-stabbed-seven-times-through-the-heart-and-only-slightly-somber Mary. I even get to watch some cyclists competing in a big race whiz by on city streets, twice.

    I come across a fellow maybe in his 40s or 50s ambling along as slowly as I am. I catch up to him. I share my Tylenol. This makes me happy: to help a fellow hobbler in need.

    My accommodation tonight is a cheap motel across a big intersection from Muuuundoooooo Sooooooofaaaaa. There’s not much else here. Two hotels for pilgrims and the sofa store. There are four, rock hard twin beds in my room sporting 70s era striped spreads that even Greg, Peter, and Bobby Brady would reject. But there is an object here I have not seen since I started back in Lisbon.

    There is, and I say this with unbridled joy, a bathtub.

    I spend the afternoon, hand towel stuffed in the unpluggable drain, soaking. I wash my disgusting, 3-weeks-of-showers-aren’t-enough toes until they gleam. I make bubbles with the motel shampoo. I fall asleep. It is glorious.

    I arrive at the Santiago Cathedral in two days. In a rundown motel across from The Sofa King, I am cleansed and ready for the finale’.
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  • Strings: Picarana to Santiago’s Edge

    21 mei 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    (Hankies, ya’ll.)

    I wake early today, 5 a.m., compliments of paper thin walls and the boisterous German fellows in the room next door. They are off on their Camino within minutes, leaving me unable to roll back over into slumber. I check my phone for the time: 5:26, and realize I forgot to text Kory goodnight. Again. I’ve been texting him goodnight pretty much without fail every night since he died Aug. 6, 2020. My therapist at one point suggested this was not healthy, but I shut her down right quick.

    Now I’m thinking about the rock, or more about how I’ve forgotten all about the smooth heavy oval with “❤️ Big Show. I miss you, Dolly.” It’s in my hip bag, heavy at a time when heavy things require consideration. And I haven’t thought of it in days.

    Another idea sideswipes me - one I do not want to confront. And then, because I don’t wanna do this and my subconscious doesn’t care,, a half dozen imagined moments swirl all at once. I see myself in my grief reaching for an imagined scruff of Kory’s beard, just there along his jaw where it it sharpest; and I feel of his chest under his shirt, his arms around me during out last hug. These are my go-to grief thoughts.

    I also see an ending. One I’ve been avoiding a long time.

    Now, I’m weeping and chanting, “ok, ok, ok, ok, ok…” over and over again. Thoughts and images keep coming. I imagine my hands on his chest, and then he is standing next to me holding my hand. He has not been next to me since he died, but always in front where I can reach for him, grasp for him.

    I am still chanting, “ok, ok, ok” because for the first time I am considering NOT texting him goodnight, and I know what that means. It means breaking the last strand between us.

    I find my way to the shower. I am sobbing, because I realize this last strand is on me. I made it, and I’ve been dedicated to keeping it tight and strong for nearly three years.

    I pull myself together enough to get croissant and coffee at the restaurant around the corner where I ate last night. The waitress draws a heart in the foam of my cafe con leche. This makes me smile. It’s a brief and necessary respite.

    I pass the ugly Mondo Sofa building and enter a glade of trees. I’m crying again before long, thinking of my grandmothers and past tense verbs. At some point, both my Grandma Rose and Grandma Helen started speaking of my dead grandfathers in the past tense. I ty it: “I loved you.” God. It’s daggers and swords, a physical and sharp pain.

    I take an obligatory, Facebook, flowers-in-my-hat, happy selfie. But it’s a lie. I’m crying almost constantly, using my cooling scarf to blow my nose. I suck up my sniffles as several dozen pilgrims pass by. I shove more flowers in my hat. There are so many, it makes me laugh. This is not a lie. I’ve walked hand-in-hand with joy and sorrow these last three years. They aren’t enemies. They’re fraternal twins.

    It occurs to me that this ribbon of wishing and wanting that I’ve tied so tightly with my grief is holding him here. He would never leave with me still needing him. We all know this about him: he would do anything for me.

    So now I’m weeping profusely. Because I do not want to let him go, but I know I will - because he is my love, because I will always put him first, too. And now that I see it clearly, I have to do this.

    I do not believe in heaven, or that we somehow maintain some form of self after we die. I’ve always argued that the last thing that the cosmic dust left when we die would want is to be bound to its corporeal body. If there is a thing like heaven, it must be the blessed release of all the ego and id that tortured us while we were humans. When I ‘talk’ to my beloved Grandma Rose in trying times, I imagine it’s quarks and leptons of some Grandma Roseish type of cosmic magic come together for a brief time. I know it isn’t her.

    It won’t be Kory either. I’m going to have to cut this last strand and let him fizzle off into bits and pieces of the not-broken, not- suffering whatever he will be next. To set him free, I’ll have to free myself, whether I like it or not.

    I take a real selfie of my profoundly sad, flower clad self. I’m not really looking forward to being free.

    The rest of my day is spent weep-walking the 10 miles (which were supposed to be six) to my accommodation at the edge of Santiago. I have a few moments of joy thinking of the boys, who are flying to meet me tomorrow. But mostly, it’s weeping.

    At about eight miles, I come across a graffiti covered tunnel with a small path leading to it. The light is bright on the other side. The ferns are lit iridescent green and there is a golden glow from the sun. Aren’t I just the biggest sucker for symbolism. A bit further along, two butterflies dance together, swirling up and up.

    Oh, come ON!

    An then, high in the trees the wind pushes against the leaves, making that shushing sound that Kory loved; and he is talking to me…It’s time to go.

    “Fine. But you have to come back and visit me sometimes.”

    More weeping ensues. I come out of the woods into the edge of the suburbs. Jake texts, “The Hansens are in Spain!!!” It’s a reminder that I have other ties to attend, ties to - these two beautiful kids, and lots of other pretty lovely folks. It’s a respite.

    Then, more weeping. It’s been four hours How is there still more weeping?

    Later, I am in the shower at my bed and breakfast, crying, and I call out in my mind for him. And I hear, “It’s only been four hours.” It’s the kind of joke we adored as a couple: a gentle, loving teasing. And whether it’s Kory or my conjuring of him, it is enough. If I can laugh, I’ll be ok.

    My husband died 2 years and 9 months ago, give or take. It’s taken me all that time, these 21 days, and 160-plus miles for to finally really let him go.

    It’s gonna hurt like hell for a while.

    Because I miss him.

    Because I loved him.

    That’s why I set him free.
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  • Mary: Santiago de Compestela

    22 mei 2023, Spanje ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Many pilgrims go barreling into the Santiago de Compostela square, or rather, limping really fast into the square. It’s a ‘horse near the barn’ sort of excitement. But some of us are loath to arrive, because that means the journey has ended.

    I am slow to leave my accommodation on the edge of the city, but do finally get going. I’m in the urban landscape now; no trees, but I find some flowers for my hat. I’m following my GPS, figuring it will get me back to the actual Camino at some point. Instead, it takes me to a square with a large church.

    It can’t be Santiago de Compestela. I’ve seen pictures. This church is smaller and less ornate. But I’ve been visiting all of them along the way, so I don’t want to miss this last one. I enter. There, center stage where usually the alter features Jesus on the cross, or maybe some saint is….

    Mary.

    I look around, and every statue in the place is dedicated to her. I think I might be making this up. I wander around a bit. Everything is Mary. I sit in a pew near the front. A woman sits behind me and begins the melodic chanting of a Catholic prayer. And then (I am not making this up.) A white robed priest lights two alter candles. I sit a while, stunned, thinking of that kismet that seems to have followed me all these days. I go outside to check the statuary.there’s a,ways a carved saint or two outside the churches here. There she is, over the door, young, looking down over the square with a beatific smile.

    My pilgrimage is ended, right here, at a church I’ve wandered into. I’ll go to the church of Saint James, get my certificate, take the requisite photos, but this stumbled-upon place is my perfect ending.

    I’m trying to think, to understand, why Mary has been a motif in my travels. I’m not religious. I don’t think she’s trying to bring me to Jesus. But she is the perfect representation of feminine suffering, sorrow, and…ultimately…grace. I’ve been wallowing in the first two. I came seeking the third.

    I get it. Thanks, Lady.

    I finish the walk, arrive at the massive cathedral, and do the photo thing. I line up for my computer generated, Latin credential. I have a proud moment when the volunteer checking my pilgrims passport unravels it and sees all the stamps.

    “Where did you start?”
    “Porto.”
    “When?”
    “May 1.”

    He raises his eyebrows and frowns - the universal sign for ‘I’m impressed.’ He says a word in Spanish I don’t know, but I’m going to assume it means “badass.”

    I visit the statue of James and leave my Kory rock and the red rose from my hat among the shells and photos and offerings of other pilgrims. It hurts a little, and I cry a little; but I did most of my grieving yesterday.

    I check into the Air B&B I will share with my boys when they get here tonight. I wander the square a bit. I take the rooftop tour of the cathedral, which turns out NOT to be a tour in which you look at the roof but one in which you walk across it. It’s beautiful and terrifying and windy as hell.

    Jake and Nick get to our rooms at 6 p.m., and I hug them so hard I could pop their heads off their bodies. We are The Hansens. We are rock solid. We are a team. Don’t mess.

    Later, Nick and I are too late to get a cathedral pew to watch the massive botafumeiro swing down the aisle spewing incense. Bummer.

    Nick goes back to the room while I wander the streets looking for souvenirs I get a bumper sticker for my car and an ornament for my tree. I stop in a silver shop and ask for a small pendant of Mary. The guy behind the counter unrolls 3 feet of felt, filled with medallions. Turns out, there have been tons of apparitions from Mary over the centuries. She visits a lot. The Catholics have approved nearly two dozen apparitions. I ask him if he has Senora de Dolores.

    “No.”

    This makes sense. She’d be a sad gal to wear around your neck with all those daggers to the heart. I wear out the guy’s patience asking about the various Marys. Do I want a Fatima? A Lourdes? I see one about the right size and examine it. There are rays of light shooting from her hands. She is, according to my later research, an apparition from France in 1830. The rays represent the graces Mary gives. On the back of the medal is a predominant M for Mary, among other things.

    Avengers Mary? With grace as her superpower? Sold! The frazzled shop owner closes up behind me.

    In another store, I pick up a patch for my backpack featuring an embroidered Santiago cathedral and the words “No suenos tu vida. Vive Tues suenos.”

    I’m confused. I can’t remember the word suenos . Is it something about sad pain?And the patch is about living with it? That can’t be right. I ask the salesperson.

    “No,” she says, translating, “Do not dream your life. Live your dreams.”

    Oh. Well then.

    I’ll take that one.
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