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Brian Gallagher
Brian Gallagher

Brian Gallagher

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  • Brian GallagherPortugalBrian Gallagher

    Day 6. Porto

    14. august 2017, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    The day started with a tourist sightseeing bus taking in the historical parts of the city. I had an urge to leap off the bus, scrubbing and paint brushes in hand. There are a lot of dirty and derelict buildings throughout the city. Then I remembered that Portugal is broke, deep in debt to the EU banks. There is some redevelopement going on but, at the moment, it is not enough.
    There are many beautiful tile mosaics on churches, in the railway station and on significant government buildings.
    One mosaic on the Santa Caterina chapel has over 14,000 tiles. Quite impressive.
    Only two small trams remain from a once extensive network. The tourists love them.
    We joined the hordes crossing the Douro river high on the Luiz 1 bridge to vista Vila Nova de Gaia on the opposite bank to Porto. An impressive view of the city.
    We did visit some churches and a monastery.
    A busy day and we were quite happy to dine and retire for the night.
    Luckily a cool change is on the way for tomorrow.    Les mer

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  • Brian GallagherPortugalBrian Gallagher

    Day 5 Porto

    14. august 2017, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    A large group of Dutch cyclists were at breakfast today. Having cycled from Holland to Lourdes and Santiago they were heading off to ride to Fatima in Central Portugal. We chatted to two ladies and they explained their ride.
    The bus took us to Porto and it was hot. Mid 30s, not the temp for touring. We were quite content to have a lazy, shady afternoon.
    We had a quiet dinner and looking forward to touring tomorrow.    Les mer

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  • Brian GallagherPortugalBrian Gallagher

    Day 4. Fado.

    11. august 2017, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    On the way to the concert I decided to check out the post office. Why you may ask? I have been traumatised by my experiences with the Italian Post Office and do not want a repeat experience. Compared to the Italian Post Office, Australias' is efficient and productive.
    With trepidation we entered and all appeared normal. Phew!
    Now Shirley's purchases can be sent home.
    All afternoon I had been racking my brain for the name of a guitar piece we had heard played by a busker earlier. As we sat down for the concert it came to me. The adagio from the Concierto d'Aranjuez. A very beautiful piece of music.
    Fado is a tradition of the Coimbra University students. The University was founded in 1290 and has a long and distinguished reputation. Fado was sung/played by the male students wooing the young girls but during the dictatorships of Salazar and Caetarno it was used to pass on messages of protest. Nowadays song are sung emphasising the love of country.
    The musicians play the Coimbra guitar, founded on the traditional guitar and the sitar. And the classical guitar.
    We had a very entertaining and enjoyable evening.
    Dinner was enjoyed in the nearby Placa in a barmy evening.
    Tomorrow we head off to Porto. The weather forecast is for a couple of hot days before a return to pleasant temps.    Les mer

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  • Brian GallagherPortugalBrian Gallagher
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    Day 4. Coimbra (Quimbra)

    11. august 2017, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Much relieved after our visit to the hospital we were ready for being tourists today. As usual washing was the first port of call at the laundrette nearby. Once completed we headed off to find the cafe that has a fado concert tonight. In no hurry we strolled through the old part of the city with it's narrow and interesting streets. In one shop they had a huge tomato of the old variety, they look badly malformed but are red and juicy. You pay a premium in Australia where we have been seduced into only buying perfectly formed fruit and veg. These old tomatoes are delicious.
    Shirl is enjoying being a tourist and all tourists is buying little nicknacks to go with the cork handbag she bought in Alcobaca.
    On the pavements are the Pilgrimage placards indicating the way to Santiago de Compostelle in Spain.
    The Aussie invention of the screwtop virtually destroyed the Portuguese cork industry, being the worlds major supplier. It looks like they have hit on a winner with these handbags. How durable they are time will tell.
    We eventually found the fado cafe and booked for tonight's concert. (A separate post on the concert to follow)
    The Monastery Santa Cruz was close by and we popped in for a visit. Inside was beautiful azulejo tiles depicting religious historical scenes.
    The organ was a masterpiece as was the choir stalls.
    Buildings like this abound in Portugal and are testament that they, alongside England and Spain, they were a major power. Spain and Portigal have fallen by the wayside and, sadly, England is going the same way.
    Today, unlike previous days, was starting to warm up and we sought they shade and returned to the hotel.
    After lunch Shirl took it easy while I paid a visit to the Post Office.

    I    Les mer

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  • Brian GallagherPortugalBrian Gallagher

    Day 3. Coimbra

    10. august 2017, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    What a day. Brian in his wisdom decided to take the advice of travel advisor and take the train to Coimbra. No more today trains.
    The bus was at 1635 so it made sense to take the 1130 train from Valado as suggested.
    Sitting on a deserted platform in the middle of nowhere is. It the best place to spend your time, particularly when the train is late and indicates it is going to a different place. The train was clean enough on the inside but all the carriage had been graffitied and you couldn't see out of them.
    With relief we eventually reached our destination.
    Today Shirl needs her arm checked and re-bandaged.
    All is well to our collective relief
    Unfortunately no photos as yet.    Les mer

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  • Brian GallagherPortugalBrian Gallagher

    Day 2. Batahla afternoon.

    9. august 2017, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    After lunch we caught the bus to Batahla, to see the Dominican monastery built to commemorate the battle that ensured the indépendance of Portugal. (1385)
    A very impressive building. What impressed was
    The stone masonry. A brilliant extravaganza of superb workmanship. It is the most important example of the Gothic style in Portugal with the most important example of medieval stained glass windows.
    In one of the photos you will noticed a cleaned steeple. If only they could afford to clean all the building it would be an extraordinary sight.
    Whilst there we saw the changing of the guard for the war memorial to the fallen of the First World War. I couldn't' resist photographing the intricate lacing of the guards boots.
    A visit to the military museum concluded our visit.
    Tired but pleased we returned to our hotel to prepare for our journey tomorrow to Coimbra.    Les mer

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  • Brian GallagherPortugalBrian Gallagher

    Day 2. Morning Alcobaca.

    9. august 2017, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Why Alcobaca you may ask?. The Cistercian Monastery here was one of the most important and powerful Abbeys in the Cistercian order. It was founded in 1153.
    It has many Azurlejo. The hand painted tiles which. Depict major historical events. The tiles are about 150mm square. Many fine examples here. The church was the first Gothic church in Portugal.
    While wandering around the cloisters we heard this beautiful singing. We arrived at a chapel just as the singing ended. It was a Japonese lady and a falsetto. A male contralto. We spoke to him, Joao Paolo Ferreira. a Brazilian. He sings for the different touring groups. We sat down and he sang for us. A special moment. We continued our tour and shortly after we heard Joao Paolo singing Ave Maria. We met him again and asked if he had a CD. Yes, but in the square when he busks. I asked if he would sing Ave Maria for Shirley but unfortunately he had another appointment.
    Later we located him singing and I bought a CD. He then sand Ave Maria for Shirl who was moved to tears. The events of the last few days had caught up with her.
    A coffee, very good, and a Portuguese custard tart. Delicious.    Les mer

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  • Brian GallagherWest Highland WayBrian Gallagher

    Day 11. Portugal.

    8. august 2017, England ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    The taxi dropped off two weary travellers at the airport at 5-30am for our flight. Smooth. Easy check in with Easyjet and security.
    Flight departed on time and Shirl slept all the way to Lisbon.
    I said to Shirl last night that the Scots are very optimistic, they buy sunglasses. To prove me wrong it was a glorious day as we climbed out of Edinburgh.
    Today was a travelling day. Arrival and processing was straight forward and quick. The taxi took is to the Rodovaria Sete Rios( seven rivers). Not the most pleasant of places, but was it efficient. The bus company Rede Expressos has a very modern, comfortable fleet. A smooth, enjoyable trip followed and we arrived at Alcobaca about 1645, tired but happy to be here.
    A shower, early meal and off to bed.    Les mer

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  • Brian GallagherWest Highland WayBrian Gallagher

    Day 10. Fort William to Edinburgh

    8. august 2017, England ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Up early we boarded the early morning rattler to Edinburgh. Still showery and from time to time we spotted walkers trudging through the rain. During the journey we were able to enjoy the scenery in comfort. It is beautiful.
    Ensconced in our hotel we showered and had a nap in preparation for the Tattoo.
    A final Scottish meal, a stroll up the Royal Mile, joining the queue for the performance.
    It was a fine, cold night and along with 9000 other spectators enjoyed the colour, pomp, precision and pagentry whilst freezing our thingamajigs off. A wonderful night.
    The themes was Bonnie Prince Charlie and the Jacobites. The crowd enjoyed the mock battle between the Redcoats and The Highlanders who sent the English packing. In reality the Scots won very few battles.
    And do to bed for 4 hours sleep before our flight to Lisbon. Sun and rest.    Les mer

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  • Brian GallagherWest Highland WayBrian Gallagher

    Thanks.

    7. august 2017, Skottland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Thanks for your messages re Shirl. Nurse Gallagher Snr will take good care of her

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  • Brian GallagherWest Highland WayBrian Gallagher
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    Day 9. Rest Day Fort William

    6. august 2017, Skottland ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    Our first task was to visit the hospital for a check of Shirl's injured arm. It looks awful but they were pleased and said it look really good.
    A celebratory coffee was called for and then a brief tour of the town.
    Back to the hostel for some rest. Shirl had a reaction to the antibiotics and so we will not use them.
    It's freezing here at the moment and we are looking forward to dinner and sleep as we have an early train tomorrow .
    I took a photo of the arm. Not nice to look at.    Les mer

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  • Brian GallagherWest Highland WayBrian Gallagher

    Day 8 Kinlochleven to Fort William.

    6. august 2017, Skottland ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Off bright and early we headed off with the sun shining. A stiff climb soon followed and the effect of the previous day's walking made us labour to the top. Views were good and once over the top we made good progress passing the tents of the wild campers. As we approached one of them a young girl flew out of the tent. Our first thought was that she was desperate for the toilet. No! The dreaded middies were eating her alive. The spray she had was useless. We sprayed her with Jungle Juice and all was well.
    Continuing on an undulating track up the glen we passed several abandoned homesteads. Nothing but bog either side of the track. Good for nothing.
    After four hours Shirl stumbled and ripped the flesh on her left forearm and elbow. It looked and was terrible. We treated it as best we could and continued. Many offers of help were declined as in these situations there's not a lot anyone can do.
    Two hours later we made it to Fort William and the hospital. We couldn't fault their care and attention. It took about 2 hours to clean, peal the skin back and remove all the gravel.
    Arm on sling Shirl was looking tired. A taxi took us to the hostel near Ben Nevis where we cleaned up went for dinner then bed.
    Our original intention was to climb Ben Nevis on our rest day but we had given that idea up several days ago. It was not on now if we wanted to change our mind.    Les mer

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  • Brian GallagherWest Highland WayBrian Gallagher

    Day 7. Kinghouse to Kinlochleven

    4. august 2017, Skottland ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    The taxi delivered us to Kinghouse on time for breakfast. Yes you guessed it, it was raining and the mountains were shrouded in mist.
    It took us over an hour to reach the bottom of "the Devils Staiyway". So named by the people who built it. It took us 45 mins to reach the top. 548m the highest point on the WHW. At the top was an honesty box for soft drinks and water. We saw at least 15 walkers out to bag a monro.
    The downward track was a bit of an ordeal for us. Many rocks that threatened ankle injury.
    The mist swirled around us as fellow walkers appeared and disappeared in the gloom.
    We were happy to arrive and the day was finished.
    I managed to get Shirl the latest episode of Poldark and all is well.
    Looking forward to the last day tomorrow.    Les mer

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  • Brian GallagherWest Highland WayBrian Gallagher

    Day 6. Inveroran to Glencoe

    3. august 2017, Skottland ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    After a disappointing breakfast we headed off on the Drovers Trail to Glencoe. The only good thing about the trail was that our feet were dry. The weather was good and we have quite stunning views. On either side of the trail was bog.
    Rannoch Moor is the largest uninhabited wilderness in the UK.(50 square miles) our friends "the yellow submarine orchids" were in abondance and testimony to the danger of stepping off the path.
    The rocky trail was hard on the feet and we were filled with admiration for Emily and Agathe who did this walk in conjunction withthe walk to Inveroran. Character building.
    We made good time and caught the 12-27 bus to Glencoe. He wouldn't drop us off at the junction road to the SYHA so we alighted at Glencoe village.
    After lunch we made the 1hours walk to the hostel.
    Only frozen meals at the hostel so off we went to the Clachaig pub for a meal. A 20 min walk.
    I have ordered a taxi to take us back to Kinghouse for tomorrow's walk.    Les mer

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  • Brian GallagherWest Highland WayBrian Gallagher
    1

    Day 5. Tyndrum to Inveroran

    2. august 2017, Skottland ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    The first thing Shirl said this morning was "I have decided on the cruise I want to take" I wondered if there was a doctor in the village. "A cruise on the Brisbane ferry" Whew!!!
    The good news continued as the Rain God was taking a sickie until 3pm. He does have a soft side.
    After breakfast we slowly climb out of Tyndrum on an 18th century road. They had a good infrastructure programme in those days. The sun eventually came out and we had a lovely easy stroll to the Bridge of Orchy. Today,s walk was what we imagined both Scottish walks would be like.
    After indulging in a cream tea we walked a further 5 kms to Invernan. We said our goodbyes to the two young girls( Emily and Agat) both aged 17. Two very capable young ladies.
    Our day finished at 1-45 and after showering we adjourned to the walkers bar where we spent an agreeable few hours talking to Theo and Jan, two young French.
    It started to rain at 3pm as per the forecast. We hope for a fine day tomorrow as we have a 16kms walk over the desolate Rannoch Moor.    Les mer

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  • Brian GallagherWest Highland WayBrian Gallagher

    Day 4. Invernan to Tyndrum

    1. august 2017, Skottland ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    The rain god played a nasty trick on the campers this morning. No rain overnight but just as the campers were packing up he drowned them. Nasty.
    We headed off, in the rain, naturally, and climbed steadily for about 1 1/2 hours. The way was on an 18th century military road and a rocky track. Thank goodness it was a vast improvement on yesterday.
    An interesting low passage under a railway line. Nearly on our knees.
    As usual nowhere to rest for 5 hours. A kind farmer had cleaned out a small cow shelter for walkers to take cover and rest. Very clean with two seats. Thank you farmer.
    Shortly after we came across a holiday camp and enjoyed some good company and a coffee.
    The rain god didn't like us enjoying ourselves so thunder and heavy rain escorted us to our lodgings.    Les mer

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  • Brian GallagherWest Highland WayBrian Gallagher

    Day 3 Rowandrennan to beinglas bnb.

    31. juli 2017, Skottland ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Today was a hard,difficult day. We commenced at 8-45 and arrived at 18-30, worn out.
    The morning to Inversnaid, 11kms took us just over 4 hrs and the afternoon distance of 10 kms took us 5 hrs.
    We walk the banks of the Loch Lomond up and down on a very rocky and wet path. Quite muddy in parts. The afternoon was the worst. We struggled and some of the rock clambering was dangerous.
    It was quite obvious we would be late arriving and I phoned the BnB to advise. I was quite worried about Shirley for she suggested we should go on a cruise for relaxation. I took her pulse and felt her brow. She was not delirious. Just joking thank goodness.
    The young French couple told us that when they awoke their tent was floating on water, such was the heavy overnight downpour.
    The Scottish rain god is a miserable sod, who takes delight in making sure everyone and thing is drowned in rain. I have profusely apologised to him for the foul remarks I have directed to him, he doesn't listen,
    The youngster were quite surprised and pleased that we made it as they found the going tough. We arrived 1 hour after them.
    Tomorrow they tell us is easier. We shall see.
    One thing is sure we were pleased to see the back of the -::"(?!' Beautiful Loch Lomond.    Les mer

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  • Brian GallagherWest Highland WayBrian Gallagher

    Day 2 Drymen to Rowandrennan

    30. juli 2017, Skottland ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    A tough day. After an early breakfast we headed off and it wasn't long before the Gortex jacket came off. A muggy day with light showers..As the morning progressed it became overcast and we made steady progress. We took the alternative route to Balmaha via Milton Buchanan. Easier than climbing Mt Conic.
    We lunched at Balmaha and from there we were walking on the shore of Loch Lomand. Very romantic.
    The rain came. It's Scotland.! We had some lightweight ponchos and decided to try them out. They were great. No sauna bath like the Gortex.
    After 6 hours we were starting to tire and yes, they gave us. Couple of cruel ascents.
    We finally reached Rowandrennen and had a dink at the pub,
    A short walk later we reached the YHA. Beautifully located on the shores of the Loch.
    8 hours in total and after a good meal , and for me a well earn glass of red it's bedtime.    Les mer

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  • Brian GallagherWest Highland WayBrian Gallagher

    Day 1 Milngavie to Drymen.

    29. juli 2017, Skottland ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    We caught an earlier train than planned and fluked a direct service to Milngavie(Mullguy).
    It was a cold, miserable showery morning and it was cold on the train.
    On arrival we had breakfast before heading off. Light showers to start off with with intermittent heavy showers. The path was fairly level with lots of puddles. The fine views we were supposed to see did not eventuate due to the weather conditions.
    Lots of People walking, mainly young people, who would be camping. In these conditions they had our sympathy.
    Pleased to arrive mid-afternoon. We removed our wet gear and had a welcome shower.
    Should sleep well tonight.    Les mer

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  • Brian GallagherWest Highland WayBrian Gallagher

    Pre Walk Edinburgh

    27. juli 2017, Skottland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    We left Dunbar in the rain, after our goodbyes to Barbara, Tina, Walter & Patrick, and arrived in Edinburgh in torrential rain.
    Day 1 & 2 was spent posting parcels, laundry, getting our tickets for the Tattoo etc.
    Day 3 saw us going to Roslyn Chapel, a 45 min bus trip from Edinburgh. What an extraordinary example of stone masonry. There were too many fine examples to digest in our short visit. The Master and the Apprentice columns emphasised the difference between the rigid conformist designs of the old against the the extravagant design of the future.!
    Returning to the city we ate Italian before strolling up the Royal mile.
    We sampled S Luca ice cream as suggested by Sandi and enjoyed it on the cold, windy Princes Street.
    To bed early for our early start tomorrow.    Les mer

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  • Brian GallagherSouthern Upland WayBrian Gallagher

    Longformacus to Cockburnspath

    25. juli 2017, Skottland ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    The final day was supposed to be cloudy. It rained: very our fellow walkers and retired to bed. gently.
    We decided to take a taxi to Abbey St Bathans as we did not think we would make it to catch the last bus to Dunbar, our final destination.
    A pleasant walk by the river was followed by meadows of heavy, freed grass.
    We made good progress and I lead at a faster than normal pace. After about 4 hours we entered a forest trail with lots of fungi.
    We were tiring and when we encountered some heavy bush/bashing at the Pease Dean wildlife reserve. They really do need to do some serious maintenue on this section.
    A short detour to cast our stones into the sea was followed by a coffee at the caravan park.
    We then took a short cut as I wanted to catch the 1504 bus to Dunbar. We made it with 4 minutes to spare.
    We had a good evening meal., said hi to our fellow walkers and then retired to bed, thankful to have finished the SUW.    Les mer

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  • Brian GallagherSouthern Upland WayBrian Gallagher

    Day 14. Lauder to Longformacus

    25. juli 2017, Skottland ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    A long, boring day over the moors. Our climb to the moors commenced after a short time and it wasn't long before the Swiss group joined and then passed us. We have had our fill of moors. This is a desolate area with lots of grouse. Soon to be shot at as the season opens on the tenth of August.
    On our arrival at Twin Law on the Lammermuir hill we joined
    Barbara, Tina, Walter and Patrick having lunch. Very enjoyable meeting.
    They left and shortly after we continued.
    Very pleased to arrive at Longformacus. We are all staying at the only BnB in town. There was a mix-up in transport arrangements to the nearby town of Duns, but we had an enjoyable evening.    Les mer

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  • Brian GallagherSouthern Upland WayBrian Gallagher

    Day 13 Galashiels to Lauder

    25. juli 2017, Skottland ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Weather forecast heavy rain. Not wanting to be drowned again we arranged to accompany our bags to Lauder.!
    The morning was spent viewing Galashiels in the rain. Had a decent coffee in a Turkish cafe and engaged in conversation with the owners and their clients. They were impressed with our exploits.
    Lauder is a quiet. Lovely town. The owners of our BnB have sold up to join their two sons in OZ. The Gold Coast. John & Ruth couldn't stop talking about their excitement at living in Oz.
    It was frustrating because the heavy rain did not happen and we could have walked.    Les mer

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  • Brian GallagherSouthern Upland WayBrian Gallagher

    Day 12. Innerleithen to Galashiels

    23. juli 2017, Skottland ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Weather forecast not good but we left at 8 am after breakfast. Light rain.
    We left the road after 35 mins and started the long climb up to Minch Moor on the old droving trail. Today, it seems. Is the day for meeting people. Two boys walking the dogs and then two runners. The runners told us they were organising, next year, a run over the SUW. There welcome to that.
    The mist thickened as we continued our climb, passing the sculpture in the heather, Resolution.
    Fortunately the track was clearly defined as the mist continued to thicken.
    Another walker loomed out of the mist coming towards us. A Dutchman who had walked from Lands End and hoped to reach Edinburgh.
    I took a photo of Shirl in the mist. She was about 50 metres away.
    Reaching the Three Brethren was a relief because we now were going down. Or so we thought. With about two hours to go the rain really intensified just as we started going up again. Quite a nasty little climb.
    Relieved we reached our destination after 7-3/4 hours. Drenched.    Les mer

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