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Brian Gallagher
Brian Gallagher

Brian Gallagher

traveled in 4 countries Read more
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  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 39. Rome

    October 2, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    After yesterday we decided not to walk through the rubbish to Rome but took the bus.
    The conductor was very kind, rather than have us pay 14Euros by purchasing a ticket from her she stopped the bus and said go and by a ticket in the newsagent but véloce. So I véloces in super quick time and bought the tickets for 2.6 Euro. I thanked her profusely.
    After checking in we took the metro into St Peters and picked up a Testimonium before returning to our BnB.
    Now we are cleaning our boots ready for our departure tomorrow.
    Trying to find somewhere to eat tonight was a problem. Not much around but eventually we managed to eat.
    Tomorrow we are on our way home.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 38. Monterotondo

    October 1, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Well it was hunters, dogs and rubbish today.
    Our early start was punctuated in the first stage by the hunters blasting away. Not an enjoyable start to the day.
    Then we came across some house with all the dogs barking and at one house 3 of them slipped through the fence. Fortunately they were not agressive.
    The closer we get to Rome the more rubbish litters the sides of the roads. Definitely no civic pride.
    So what should have been an enjoyable walk was spoilt.
    The meal this evening was ordinary.
    Sandy' group are staying in our hotel. It appears that only 4 walk with the others having riding the bus on the difficult stages.
    Tomorrow Rome..    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 37. Montelibretti.

    September 30, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    We were off and walking by 8am, downhill to the village and continuing down before the 1st of 3 steepish climbs. The weather was great , sunshine with a cool breeze. Although by the afternoon it was starting to warm up.
    Its not very often you get 3 evenly spaced coffee breaks as today, with the first in Poggio Corese, then Aquaviva and finally at our destination. 17 kms today through mostly olive groves. The cyclamen are still around us.
    I have included a photo of the rubbish that the Italians blight there countryside with. The rubbish bins overflow in the villages because the council collection is spasmodic. So they though by the side of the lanes.
    The hunting season is open and the hot blooded Italians are out in force. There were some anxious moments with the shot guns going off around us.
    We had a pleasant meal and retired early in preparation of a long walk tomorrow.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 36. Ponticelli

    September 30, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Today we got back on track for the last 3 days of walking to Rome.
    A bus from Rieti took us to Osteria Nuova along the Via Salaria. An old salt road to Rome. From there we walked the 5 kms to Ponticelli to the BnB run by Giuseppe.
    In the evening he cooked a meal for us and 4 Italian ladies from a village in the Dolomites. A great night with the Italians singing and laughing the more the drank. Their pilgrimage consists of bussing from place to place. Margarita, Heidi, Clara and Frieda were having a great time.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 35. Rieti

    September 28, 2017 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    Our last washing day today. The lavandaria took our washing so we had an hour to spare. We watched the drama of 4 Italians cutting down a tree. Not being sarcastic they didn't have a bloody clue what to do. As is their way there was a lot of shouting and gesticulation. I had to restrain myself as I could have given them some simple instructions that would have accomplished the task quicker and easier. Eventually the tree fell.
    We had time to buy some fruit before collecting the laundry.
    Dropping off the laundry at the hotel we visited the Duomo where a gentleman took us under his wing and pointed out the main features. From first appearances it is a temple to marble but sadly it's a paint job. A dismal and overpowering place.
    In the crypt, very beautiful was a column with an inscription that it was 32 leagues to Rome. An alter slab had an inscription with the date 1157.
    We had a long walk along the banks of the river Velino, the source of the Cascata at Marmore.
    We bump into Sandy and some of his group before lunch and gelato.
    We found a lovely little restaurant for our dinner before retiring and getting ready for our departure tomorrow.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 34 Rieti

    September 28, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    After the dramatic day yesterday today was a bore waiting for the bus and train to get us here in Rieti.
    A visit to the tourist office after checking in achieved the info that I required for our onward travel. A quiet evening meal followed.Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 33. Cascata delle Marmore.

    September 28, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    This morning we taxied down the mountain to Marmore to visit the waterfalls.
    In 271 BC the Romans decided to divert the some of the river Velino over the natural cliffs at Marmore to drain the swamps around Rieti. Although it solved Rieti's problems it caused the River Nets at Terni to flood. It was not until the 15-16 th century that a series of canals and other modifications resolved the problem. Nowadays the water flow is harnessed to generate electricity. The waters are released certain published times and the the Cascata is a dramatic and breathtaking event.
    We arrived at the bottom just as the water flow was released, and although the sun was in the wrong direction, it certainly was quite a sight. After getting wet at the bottom we walked up the side of the falls admiring its grandeur to the top where we lunched before walking the 7 kms, on the Way, back to Piediluco where we had a well-earned Gelato.
    A memorable day.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher
    1

    Dag 32 Piediluco.

    September 27, 2017 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    Today was a very casual and easy day. After a late breakfast we headed to Arrone where we arrived for lunch. The cyclamens are all around us and add to the scenery.
    We caught a bus to Terni transferring to another one to here.
    Nothing much here except the very beautiful lakes.
    In the evening we met Sandy and his group. He is the author of the book we are using for our journey. A interesting man.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 31. Macenano

    September 27, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    An early start to climb to 910 metres in the cool of the morning. We left at 0640 and reached the monastery at Monteluco at 9 for coffee before preceding to the high point for 10 am.
    The downhill section was difficult in places due to the rocks and narrow path. A good walk with cyclamens strewn on either side of the path.
    Good views of the rocky terrain. About 40 rock climbers crossed our path with their ropes and gear. Got fed up saying buongiorno.
    We reached Cesille at 1-30pm for lunch. Knackered.
    A further 2 hours saw us reach our accommodation in Macenano after a hard day.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 30. Spoleto

    September 23, 2017 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    On the way to Spoleto we passed through the beautiful village of Fonte del Clitunno. From there it was the bikeway all the way to Spoleto. Hot walking on the Tarmac and yes, we got bamboozled on entering the city. Quickly corrected we reached our apartment. A quick shower and up the 30% incline to the Duomo, then the tourist office to learn we have to make a 2km detour as the footbridge is closed.
    You can easily get lost in this city so we Sussex out the route for tomorrow and visited the Roman forum.
    A pleasant meal the bedtime for an early start tomorrow.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher
    1

    Day 29 Trevi

    September 22, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We made our farewells to Karl and Leslie and caught the bus to Santa Maria degli Angélil in order to take the train to Foligno. We had walked this section on a previous visit.
    It was initially flat and boring ex Foligno on the Via Roma with lots of traffic. We eventually left that behind and became a
    little confused with the multiple markings. I do wish the Italians would decide on one system instead of every Tom, Dick and Harry complicating things.
    It was mainly through Olive groves and relatively flat until the ascent into Trevi. We are in the Old town and there's not too much here.
    We are both pleased to be walking again with the realisation that our adventure is coming to an end.
    The view from our hotel balcony is quite spectacular.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 27/28. Assisi

    September 21, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    The daylight hours are shortening and consequently the temps. It was 9 degrees when we left to walk to Assisi. A comfortable walk of 4 hours. Whilst walking through the woods we heard a pack of dogs close bye and we spent some anxious moments wondering if they were wild. Not so as we came upon some parked cars. They were probably hunting for wild pigs.
    The ascent into the city was quite steep with cars racing past.
    At St Francis Basilica we were stopped by military personnel and and had to show our pilgrim passport otherwise they would have searched our bags.
    We obtained our testimony and invited to the evening mass for pilgrims.
    All day we kept bumping into our fellow travellers and at the mass too.
    We dined with Karl and Leslie (Americans) along with their French friend Pierre. So I got to practice my French. A very enjoyable night.
    Our first task on the second day was the laundry which involved a bus ride to Santa Maria d'Angelli at the bottom of the hill. That done we went sightseeing and had the good fortune to come across an exhibition by a pilgrim who had walked 13,000kms in 15 months. His photos brought back many happy memories for us.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 25/26. Valfabbrica.

    September 18, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We spent the morning in Gubbio visiting other attractions we had missed yesterday before bussing to Valfabbrica.
    The bus was crowded with schoolchildren and we don't know if there would be a service without them.
    On arrival here we met Elizabeth and had a drink with her before we went to our accommodation. I think it's going to be a noisy night.
    We searched this small town for somewhere to eat tonight as Monday is not a good day for restaurants. We eventually found a pizza place. There's not much else.
    The next morning we had breakfast with Elizabeth, said goodbye, and then spent the day in Perugia. A lovely city with lots to see and do. We have been here before but it's that sort of city that deserves a return visit.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 23/24. Gubbio

    September 17, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    The overnight rain continued in the morning until we left Citta at 12:30 to catch the bus to Gubbio. Whilst waiting for the bus we met Karl and Leslie an American couple who are also going to Rome.
    Getting off the bus at Gubbio we met Ralf and Elizabeth.
    We went for a coffee and ice cream and met Gerry and Alice who came in like drowned rats after their long walk. Not too happy. Shortly after we were joined by Kathryn.
    The arrangements for dinner did not eventuate as the Italians and decided not to join Ralf, Elizabeth and us. We were joined by Maria(German). A pleasant evening.
    Day 24 we made our way up to the Piazza Grande, via the market, to take the tourist train around the city. We return to the hotel for extra clothes, It was fresh.
    Our visit to see the church where St Francis's wolf is supposed to be buried was in vain as it was closed.
    We wander through the narrow streets up to the Funivia(birdcage) to go up to the Basilica of St Ubalfo. They store the ceris here.
    On May 15th each year they race the three ceris up to the Basilica through the city. The Ceri are 3 tall, heavy wooden structures on top of which are placed 3 statues. St Ubaldo, protector of the masons, St Giorgio, protector of the merchants and St Antonio Abate protector of the muleteers and peasants. They are dismantled to pass them through the narrow portes. ( see photo of Shirl with arms outstretched.
    I suggest you google this Festa to get some the excitement, even fervour it generates. I had the good fortune to see when I was studying Italian at Perugia. An unforgettable experience.
    We had a break after a ice cream as we wanted to visit two other Churches.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 21/22. Citta di Castello

    September 15, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Patrizia wouldn't serve breakfast before 0830 so it was 0915 before we were on our way. Ralf had left before
    Us but Elizabeth was still at Le Burgne when we left.
    Downhill to start with and then we commenced our first climb. We met Ralph at a buffalo farm as he was about to leVe after a rest.
    We continued the uphill grind together looking forward to a coffee at Lerchi. A most welcome break.
    As we're leaving Elizabeth arrived with news that Tony(French) would arrive on a few minutes. Ralf decided to wait for him as they had walk during previous day's.
    After about an hour we reached the top of the climb,thank goodness, and from there it was relatively easy descent into Citta.
    On our arrival in front of the Cathedral we had a refreshing drink and got into conversation with an English family who wanted to know about our travels. The Gerry and Alice arrived. They are the Americans we had dined with at Stia.
    We checked into our apartment and went shopping for food and drink bumping into Kathryn who told us that Roxanne and Sandi )Australians) from Stia were having coffee not far away. They were in good spirits and enjoying their walk.
    In the evening we met Ralf and went looking for a restaurant and met Tony and some Italian walkers together with Elizabeth. 9 of us sat down to dine. Ralf (German), Tony (French), Cinzia, Nadia, Rosa and Roberto(Italian) and Shirl and I. A wonderful evening.
    I spent a few hours the next day trying to sort out a few problems before we did the washing and sight-seeing.
    We wondered around the narrow streets of Citta visiting a few churches and admiring the old buildings.
    A quiet meal. Tomorrow it's a bus to Gubbio.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 20. Agriturismo Le Burgne

    September 15, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Time to take it easy before the final stage to our overnight accommodation. The route out of town was a very busy and hair-raising so we left at 7 to avoid the worst of the traffic. Once clear of the major roads we sauntered along quiet, minor roads.
    We stopped for coffee and dolci in the very tiny village of Gricignano before continuing along flat roads.
    We missed out on a drink in Fighille due to poor instructions in our book so we continued up to Citerna. Quite a strep climb ensued but we arrived very early and so had lots of time to take it easy before the final stage to our overnight accommodation.
    We hadn't met any other walkers at this stage.
    The first part of the afternoon's walk was downhill and then, of course, it was up. We passed lots of tobacco fields.
    Nearing the top of the climb we were joined by Ralph(German) and we walked together to Le Burgne.
    Our hostess never stops talking. All on Italian and too bad if you don't understand.
    Dinner was delayed to await the arrival of Elizabeth (Austrian).
    For Shirl and I the meal was a disappointment. The soup was fine. It the rest was not to our liking.
    The
    Company and conversation made up for it.
    Shirl's back is OK and we will continue to Citta Di Castello tomorrow.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 18 & 19. Sansecolpro

    September 12, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    It took us two bus and 1 train trip to Sansecolpro where we arrived at 2pm. We checked in and then found the laundromat. A successful day followed by a quiet evening meal
    Day 19 was reserved for sightseeing but first we sussed out the route out of town. The book had two options neither off which we acceptable to us so we planned our own quieter and shorter route.
    A visit to the Cathedral, several churches and the Civic Museum. The churches here of the early baroque style, not to our liking.
    The museum was a gem. Sansecolpro' s famous son is Piero della Francesca.. A painter of the early renaissance period. Paintings by him were displayed along with an early Michelangelo. Sculptures by Della Robbia and works by Luca Pacioli. Another Sansepolcro favourite son of the same period as Francesca. Quite a few frescoes on display as well as the synopsies.
    But the real gem was an exhibition by the American photographer Steven McCurrey. An exhibition which aroused the full gambit of human emotions.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 17. A dismal day.

    September 10, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    We woke to thunder, lightning and heavy rain. Our thoughts were with those walking. A good day to be indoors.
    A lazy morning , resting and planning.
    After lunch we caught up with some fellow pilgrims we had seen in Stia. Isa and her dog, Kira, Francis and Annimie.
    They walked today and the forest gave them some protection. It was a short walk and they started late.
    In the evening they had a Choral concert in the church opposite. 3 groups from Pistoia. The first group were the best by far. An enjoyable concert followed by a pleasant meal with the other pilgrims.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 16. Badia Prataglia.

    September 9, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Today's journey to Badia involved two buses as it's out of the way. This was where we were suppose to walk to. Shirl's back is much better and tomorrow we might walk part of the track, without packs, to see how she goes.
    We don't plan to do a full day's walk for 4 days. It will give her back a good rest. After that we had planned to miss 3 long stages so hopefully by the time we reach Assisi all should be well.
    Well tonight in Badia Prataglia is the Festa dei Fochi. (Fie Festival). Their version of bonfire night. Quite spectacular but dangerous. With Italian precision it started 45 mins late.
    Then the fireworks until 2 pm.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 15 Stia. A restful rest day

    September 9, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We had a quit stroll after breakfast visiting the church before Shirl had a very good rest. In the evening we ate at the same restaurant as last night and had a good meal.
    Then a restful evening.

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 14. Stia

    September 8, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Irina picked us up for breakfast at 7-30 and we breakfasted with K & R. We left at 8 but the other two waited for the Americans and the two Aussies we have yet to meet.
    We looked over pass but it was shrouded in mist.
    Today was supposed to be an easier day, mainly downhill, with some ascents. Didn't feel like that.
    Shirl was having back problems so it made it a very difficult
    day. Beat in mind the only way out is to walk. It was a struggle for her. I took the heavier items out of her to try and ease the load. We made it but what an ordeal for Shirl.
    Shirl's back injury is similar to the one she experienced on the South West Coast walk.
    As soon as we arrived she showered and after a massaged and some painkillers she went to bed to get as much rest as possible.
    In the meantime I had to re-arrange our itinerary. The biggest problem is transport in these remote areas.
    There is always. solution to all problems and by the time Shirl had rested the problem was solved
    We will remain on Stia tomorrow and then travel by bus for two days in Badia Prataglia, an original stop for us.
    Then two days in Sansecolpro before, hopefully continuing to walk.
    I had already programmed som rest days. Little later on and we will still have them.
    In the evening we went to dinner and finally met up with Sandie and Roxanne, two Aussies from Perth. There were 8 of us for a very pleasant dinner. Non stop conversation.
    A good night pity I left my mobile in the room.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 13. Passo della Consuma

    September 8, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    A little stiff this morning as we eased ourselves up the mountain for Diacetto. A steady climb. Got lost once but we made it for coffee and dolci. This was followed by about 5 kms on a quiet lane. We met Kathren, Belgian, as we rested on a bench before entering the forest and the afternoon's climb.
    The track had been chewed up badly by the loggers and this made it difficult on the steeper sections. We had plenty of shade in the forest, which was welcome. The total climb was 1050 metres. We were glad to arrive in Consuma.
    Our hostess drove us about 500ms to the accommodation. We had a 3 bedroom house to ourselves. Irina drove us to and from for dinner and breakfast.
    Gerry and Alice(Americans) who we met yesterday were supposed to have dinner with us but they were billeted about 25kms away. Dinner was Kathryn, Ronald(Dutch) and ourselves. It made for a pleasant evening.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 12. On the road again.

    September 5, 2017 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    Today, the first day of the Via Francesco, saw us leave Florence at 8am for a 21 km walk.
    There were no markings through Florence but we cleared the city limits new markings appeared which, I found out this evening had been placed there by the group that Sandy Brown was guiding to Assisi, 1 day ahead of us.
    We climbed steadily up to Settignano where it was time for coffee and brioche. Just after the town we started a quite steep descent down to the river Arno and the villages of Compiobbi (gelato there), Zellers, Le Falle and Sieci where we had a panini.
    From there it was a long climb as the temperatures increased and once we were over the top it was a long descent to Pontassieve.
    A tiring day because we had lost a lot of fitness during the month since Shirl's accident.
    After a shower we went shopping for some supplies for tomorrow as there is nowhere on route to buy anything.
    We had a really good meal and now it's bed before an early start tomorrow.    Read more

  • Brian GallagherItalyBrian Gallagher

    Day 9, 10 & 11. Florence.

    September 4, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Our relocation to Florence created no problems for us but the conductor on the train was run ragged by people trying to avoid paying. You had to hand it to him, In difficult circumstances he did a good job.
    We are staying on the outskirts of town and the Via Francesco runs practically past our front door. It will reduce the first day's walk by over 3 kms.
    Our major task here is to visit the Basilica Santa Croce for our first stamp in the pilgrim passport. We were unsuccessful on the Sunday ( bookshop in Basilica closed) but today we succeeded.
    It was on the mid 90's we were here last during a two week Italian course. Shirl used to sightsee in the morning whilst I toiled in the classroom. We used to meet early afternoon in the Piazza della Signorina by the statue of David. It's all changed as the steps have been removed.
    We have revisited all the popular places along with thousand of other tourists. The queues for the Uffizi, Duomo and the Basilica were huge. The city is taking it in.
    We are anxious to start walking tomorrow and our plans are well advanced. Some of the places we were going to stay in are closed. They only open for the summer. It means a couple of longer days but it's manageable. There are several stages we won't due as the distances between accomodation are too long for us.
    We are ready to go and looking forward to tomorrow.    Read more

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