• Meg Nyland
  • Meg Nyland

Europe '24

A 59-day adventure by Meg Read more
  • Chillin in Bastia

    September 27, 2024 in France ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Not many hot attractions in Bastia, which is nice. This morning we took a long walk up the coast to the north. High rocky cliffs. Lunch out, I had a local specialty called storzapretti - cheese and spinach dumplings, very good. We relaxed at home for a few hours, then had an aperitif by the water to people watch. Dinner (cheese and charcuterie) at home.Read more

  • The art of doing....not much

    September 28, 2024 in France ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    As previously mentioned, Bastia doesn't have a lot of important sites. So it's been nice to have days just to wander. This morning we walked through the Saturday market, and picked up some spicy cured sausage and a cheesy pancake thing (delicious!).

    We then hiked up to the citadel, and then along the coast south of town. then followed the waterfront trail back into town. The wind was howling, and we got a bit sand-blasted while walking.

    Corsica had a local liquor called Cap Corsa, so we went into the tasting room in town to learn more. It's similar to vermouth - based on grape / grappa alcohol, distilled with fruits, herbs, and quinine. It was ok but not my fav. But, one of the common ways to drink it is as a spritz, so we found a nice bar nearby and had spritzes and watched the locals so their thing (smoke, drink beer/espresso, and scratch lottery tickets).
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  • Travel day

    September 30, 2024 in France ⋅ 🌬 22 °C

    We got a little freaked out when we started to figure out how to get from Bastia (north end of the island) to Bonifacio (south end) - there just wasn't very clear info on how to stitch this together.

    In fact, we had reserved a rental car a few months back, thinking it would be fun to spend the day driving around, seeing things. Until we realized it would take an hour (and €20) to take the shuttle to the airport, get the rental (€90), pay for gas (?), drop it at the southern airport, then potentially pay €70-90 for an Uber/taxi into Bonifacio, as the bus no longer runs that route.

    So we canceled that plan, and dug deep in the Internet to find a once-a-day bus from Bastia to Porto Vecchio, and a different bus (also once a day) from Porto Vecchio to Bastia. It turned out to be pretty seamless, although our first bus was running about a half hour late, and that was before the driver stopped for a smoke break. 🤣

    The second bus was only a half hour, and dropped us down at the marina in Bonifacio. Of course we are staying up in the old town, so had a bit of a perilous walk up a windy road with our rolly bags. It's very touristy here, and also very pretty.
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  • Exploring Bonifacio

    October 1, 2024 in France ⋅ 🌬 23 °C

    Beautiful day, so we went for a hike up around the cliffs, taking way too many photos. Then down to the marina to get info on the ferry we'll take to Sardinia in a few days. Soooo many yachts and bougie stores!Read more

  • Rainy travel day

    October 3, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    The forecast called for rain, so we weren't that surprised. But it was raining absolute buckets when we left our Bonifacio Airbnb to head to the ferry. And, gutters aren't really a thing, so water was sheeting off the roofs or in pipes that came out into the middle of the walkway. We hustled down the hill to the dock, and in the 12 minutes it took us, we were pretty drenched, even with raincoats and rainflies for backpacks.

    The ferry was a pretty smooth hour across to Sardinia. Upon docking we walked up the hill to the bus station. Still raining, but not quite as bad. Bill grabbed us sandwiches to eat on our two hour ride. The countryside looked pretty, from what we could see through the very fogged up windows.

    Luckily we could get into our Airbnb a few hours early, so we could get out of wet squishy shoes, and evaluate how much of our clothes in our rolly bags got wet. And thankfully we have a washer (and dryer!!!) so we ran a few loads.
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  • Beaches recon

    October 5, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Yesterday we walked all over town, and also figured out our transit down to Cagliari (there usually is a train, but currently under maintenance half bus/half train - irony is one of the reasons we stayed in Olbia was the train access).

    Today we did some travel planning in the morning (booking Tix back home for me to go to a funeral). Then we found a bus route that took us out to the beaches of the emerald (smerelda) coast. Very pretty! Extremely calm and blue water, a little cool but prob fine once you get in. We waded a little, then had lunch at a beach shack. Our plan is to come out for a full day on Monday, the warmest day of our stay.
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  • Wandering

    October 6, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Olbia is an ok little town, but not really much to do. The archeological museum we went to a few days ago was one of the strangest museums we've been to. Tons of space, and not much stuff. And we got chastised by the front desk lady.

    So today we didn't have many "sights" to see. Instead we went for a ramble, heading south around the quite pretty bay. But even that was weird - tons of land and waterfront blocked off by fencing. Roads and construction projects that felt abandoned. Neighborhoods of ugly brutalist apartment buildings and nobody really around. We walked a long way, then ended up at a mall looking for lunch. We found the Old Wild West and gave it a try 😂

    We were tired so we took the bus home.
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  • Beach day

    October 7, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Today was the warmest forecast of our time here, so we went back to the beach. Our Airbnb has some beach chairs and an umbrella so we toted those through town to the bus. Then back to spiaggia lo scualo. A nice few hours reading and swimming, then lunch. More beach, then the wind got too strong and cold so we bussed back home.Read more

  • Travel day

    October 8, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    One of the reasons we stayed in Olbia is because it's on the train line down to Cagliari. However, starting a few weeks ago it's closed for maintenance.

    So, we got on a bus for the first hour and some, that dropped at a train station farther along. Then 2.5 hour train ride to Cagliari.

    When we are looking at Airbnbs, I often like to stay in the "old town" or walled city or the like. Usually has a good vibe, restaurants and sightseeing.

    So following the directions to our Cagliari apartment said walk up the hill to the Piazza, then either take the stairs or the elevator. Guess what? Elevator closed for repairs. So we carried our bags up the big stone staircase, then up more cobblestone hills up into the Castello district, inside the old fortified walls. We were hot and sweaty.

    Our apartment is like a little cave - cute and fine, very little natural light. Fine for the two nights we are here, but I couldn't spend a week.

    Because we're only here for two nights, we wanted to walk around a bit. The storm clouds looked fierce, but we saw the cathedral and palazzo, and walked to the museum area but didn't go in.

    Walking home we ducked in to get a bottle of wine, and while we were doing that, the heavens opened!!!! Crazy pelting rain, hail, thunder. We were only two and a half blocks from home, so we decided to just do it. Hahahaha we were soaked!!!!!

    It did stop raining eventually, so we stepped out to get dinner. Weirdly, this part of town has some restaurants, but not too many choices. Also as we get farther south, things open later - 7:30 or 8:30 opening is the norm. We stumbled across a pizza place that was really good.
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  • Exploring Cagliari

    October 9, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    We started our day with a "free" walking tour. We generally enjoy these, usually a few hours long and you pay by tipping at the end. Our guide was good. The tour focused on the Castello district we had explored a bit yesterday, but we learned new things.

    After that ended, we were hungry for lunch, so we walked back down to the lower area, we also figured out our route to the train for tomorrow, without having to lug our bags down the big stone staircase.

    Lunch was slow (I mean leisurely!), we had fregula (pasta nuggets) and culurgiones (dumplings with potato, pecorino and mint) - both of which we should try to make at home.

    We then intended to see the botanical garden but once we got there it didn't look that interesting and it cost money, so we ditched 😂

    Wandered thru the marina district for a bit, tons of restaurants and cute shops.

    Our two nights here is too short; we could spend more time here, I think a week would be fun as there is lots to see and do. So our mistake - too long in Olbia and too little time here. Oh well.
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  • Travel day

    October 10, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Sometimes the total time in the air isn't that long (4 hours) but it takes all day!

    Left our apartment at 8:45, and we're thankful we'd figured out how to walk to the lower town on streets, rather than lug our bags down the long stone staircase.

    The train efficiently runs from the main station one stop to the airport. We get through security, and have an hour or so to kill, so you guessed it, hit a (lame) lounge for coffee and sustenance. Our flight was delayed a half an hour.

    Get into Rome/FCO, and have 2.5 hour layover, so yep, lounge. but they were all full, so we stood in line for 20 mins. But then we're settled, to grab some food and wine. The food was plentiful but mid. Still worked fine as lunch.

    40 minutes late into Athens, the. We had to deplane via the rear door and flight stairs, then bus ride to terminal. Then find the Budget rental counter, then walk to the budget parking lot and fine our car. Inspect the car, and figure how it all works. Drive to our hotel room by the beach, and somehow it's 8pm. Not a hard day, just long and kinda slow and line-ridden 😂
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  • To Delphi

    October 11, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Our hotel in Athens wasn't great, but it has a balcony, so we enjoyed tea and breakfast (from the market down the road) and doing a little research on things to see on our drive.

    Head out, and the driving isn't too bad. We decide to explore a waterfall, that takes us up into the winding hills. But mid-october after a dry summer ain't the best time for flowing streams. No waterfall, but a nice little walk in the woods.

    We also went and checked out the monastery of Hosiaa Loukas. This Byzantine monastery was started in the 10th century, and was very cool. Many elements reminded me of Turkish Byzantine sights in Istanbul.

    We head towards Delphi, winding up and down mountain roads, and also through towns that we think are focused on winter skiing at Mt Parnassus.

    Delphi is a cute town, although we haven't explored much yet.
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  • Delphi

    October 12, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    We had two nights in Delphi - not really necessary but relaxing.

    We headed to the site about 9:30, and started with the archeological area. It's the sanctuary of the Oracle of Delphi, who spoke for Apollo. Apparently she herself was pretty cryptic, so priests and holy men "interpreted" her prophecies.

    It's an amazing site, perched high on Mt Parnassus with views of the Corinth sea.

    That evening we ate at a local taverna. As we finished, the owner sat down with us, then insisted we share ouzo and several carafes of wine while we shared stories. Very fun, but eventually we had to extricate ourselves. 🤣
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  • Drive to Stoupa

    October 13, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    A long drive, but totally worth it. We left Delphi before 8:30, and drove some 3 hours along the coast of the Corinth sea before taking a bridge over to the Peloponnese peninsula. An hour and a half later, we arrived at ancient Olympia.

    What an amazing site! We first visited the archeological museum, then Olympia itself. Very rustic and not "remade".

    Lunch in town, then another 3 hours on to our new hometown of Stoupa!
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  • Stoupa - amazing little beach town

    Oct 14–19, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    What a cute town! Our Airbnb is a few blocks from the main beach. The vibe is perfect - busy enough that there are plenty of restaurants, two sizable grocery stores, and a wonderful beach with calm waters. Most of the tourists seem to be Brits and Germans.Read more

  • Morning walk

    October 16, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    This might be one of my favorite small Mediterranean towns. We walked this morning to a neighboring village then back. Then swimming, drinks, lunch, nap.

  • Off to Napflio

    October 18, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We left lovely Stoupa this morning, heading to Napflio. But we took a slightly longer route so we could go see the ancient Byzantine ruins of Mystras, and because that was close to Sparta, we stopped there for lunch and also to walk their underwhelming ruins.

    Then another two hours in the car to Napflio, which just oozes charm.
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  • Napflio and friends

    October 19, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    We started off with some grocery shopping, then took a long walk around the peninsula. Then we had friends Emily and Olaf show up. We've met these fellow nomads in other cities around the world - Seattle and Antigua Guatemala. They've been staying in Athens for a few months, so it was easy for them to pop over for a visit.

    We grabbed lunch, then walked around for a bit. Hung out at our Airbnb, then drove up to the big fortress. Mildly interesting.

    Then we hung out on our back patio chatting, then dinner. We were all tired, so bed relatively early.
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  • And more friends!

    October 21, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Michelle and Steph are here to visit! Spent one day seeing Epidravos and Mycenea. Rest of the time we've just been hanging out, wandering, and chatting.

  • And a pivot

    October 23, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Our original plan was to head to Andros Island after Napflio. But, the Greek ferry strike made that difficult. After some quick searching, we decided to stay on the Peloponnese peninsula, and found a little town called Ermioni. It was pretty quiet, as even shoulder season is coming to an end. But the weather was fine and we had a nice time. We even got to experience their "pomegranate festival"Read more

  • Daytrip to Hydra

    October 26, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    One reason we chose the town of Ermioni was because there is a short ferry to hydra, an island we've been wanting to check out.

    We had a fun day walking around, shopping, and having a long leisurely lunch in the sunshine. And it was busy - didn't feel near as "off season" as the other towns we've been in.

    A very charming town, but I don't know that I need to go back, it's popular enough that prices seemed markedly higher
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  • Athens

    October 27, 2024 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Since we skipped over Andros, we tacked a few days in Athens on to the end of our time in Greece. We've been here before and done the major sights, so now we have the luxury of just strolling around. We did visit the agora yesterday as it was free.Read more

  • Travel day

    October 31, 2024 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    I'm headed back to Seattle for a memorial service. So we flew Athens to Istanbul, followed by a 6 hour layover. Then 14 hour flight Istanbul to Mexico City (yay for business class!!), said adios to Bill, and now have an 8 hour layover before flying 5.5 hours home. I'm running on fumes, but thankful for business class and lounges.Read more

    Trip end
    October 30, 2024