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  • ПутешественникCoast to coast plus...
    День 30

    Bozeman And Back To Society

    29 сентября 2016 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    After hiking in Yellowstone it was time to figure out my next move. I was hoping that the weather was going to be a little warmer or that the equipment I brought would allow me to be more comfortable in the temperatures I experienced in the Tetons and Yellowstone. Unfortunately I was not so lucky. In looking at the attitude and latitude of Glacier national park, I made the choice to come back to that park at a later date. I'm not thrilled about missing Glacier, but I don't hold up very well in the cold especially when I'm sleeping in a tent and can't warm up sufficiently at the end of the day. I'll see you soon Glacier, but not today.

    On with my plans. What do I do now? Reggie has told me about Bozeman Montana which happens to be a short drive from Mammoth Hot Springs, which is the northern most entrance to Yellowstone. I decide to go for it after making contact with Reggie and a friend of his in Bozeman. First stop is a coffee shop. I know, I'm not a huge coffee drinker, but the atmosphere in a coffee shop is exactly what I felt like. I was a little hungry, so I got a muffin and drank a coffee, used their Wi-Fi and sat in a comfortable chair for an hour or so. I also made use of a nice toilet that didn't have spider webs all over it. Ahh, the comforts of society.

    After coffee and a snack, I made my way to Paul and Keiley's house. Without realizing it, I had already met Paul at Reggie's bachelor party, but didn't know it was the same person. It was good to see a familiar face after several weeks on the road. Paul and Keiley greeted me outside with a beer in hand. I wasn't expecting it, but I really enjoyed that beer. After unpacking the bike and getting my things together, we went inside and hung out in their living room for a bit. They let me take a shower, which was many days overdue, and we went out for dinner. After some great conversation and good food, I was welcomed back to their house with a real mattress! Today was a good day. Another highlight of the day is the price of beer out here, it's dirt cheap compared to Boston and other cities.

    The next morning I had to figure out my next move. Paul and Kieley generously offered to let me stay another night or two but after checking the weather and looking at mileage, I didn't want to wait to get to Seattle. I packed up, said my goodbyes and hit the road. Special thanks goes out to Paul and Keiley, for hosting me. It makes a huge difference in my travels.

    Pictures: The view on the hike out of Yellowstone after two nights in the backcountry. The sign on the bulletin board at the trailhead.    Читать далее

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  • ПутешественникCoast to coast plus...
    День 28

    Yellowstone, The Lesser Known Part II

    27 сентября 2016 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    I wake up in the morning to very quiet surroundings. A few birds, maybe some frogs, and the sound of the river nearby. Today I'll hike westward along the Yellowstone River until midday, and then turn around and head back to camp. I usually don't like to do out and back hikes because of the repetition, but the hike in the Tetons wore me out and I was looking for something more laid back. This hike was perfect. Not too much elevation change, but the river made the scenery change around every curve. The previous day I had seen a bison, a king fisher, and a black bear. Today I would see a young bull moose, in the same spot twice, a rattlesnake, a deer, a wood pecker, and a bald eagle. I guess Yellowstone still has it.

    The moose was an interesting interaction. The hike was along side the river, and the river in a canyon. This means that there isn't much room along the trail for animals to make a quick getaway. Most of the hike does not have a lot of shade from thick vegetation, which is where moose like to hang out in during the day. So every time I come to a place that has lots of trees and bushes I start to scan for bears and other animals seeking shade from the midday sun. I saw a big bill moose in the Tetons on the side of the road, but that doesn't count. That moose couldn't give a shit that any of the people or cars were there. A city moose. I wanted to see a moose in it's natural environment, and I finally found one. It is an incredible experience. It's exciting and humbling to encounter such an animal especially when you're miles away from another person. As soon as I saw the moose it heard me and looked right at me. I stopped in my tracks and tried to get a better look. As soon as I moved the moose took off. For an animal that large, it can move quickly and quietly through dense vegetation. If I had my eyes closed I wouldn't know it was there. I thought the moose was gone, and continued walking clumsily (in comparison to the moose's graceful trot) along the path, and then I see more movement. This time I can see the moose run up a hill and stop. It would seem the two of us both want to be in this small area. Me along the trail and the moose in the damp and shady section along the river. We are about 50 feet away from each other, the moose has the high ground, is much faster than I am, weighs several times more than me, and has antlers. The moose is scared of me, but it looks to be "cornered" so I am extra careful with my movements. If the moose charges me, I think my best option is to try and duck behind a tree. I go off trail to maintain our distance always keeping one eye on the moose and one eye on my escape route while the moose keeps at least one ear on me the whole time. I move slowly and quietly, eventually making my way around the magnificent animal. I take a few pictures and then I continue along the path leaving the moose behind.

    Soon I come to my half way point which is close to noon. I stop on a rock next to the river for some dried apricots and almonds, a great lunch when you have to carry all your belongings for the days. The river is peaceful and relaxing. What a way to spend a day. After lunch I turn around and head back. I think about the moose and wonder if it will still be there. Sure enough, one of the few places I would expect to see a moose during the day, he is still there. Again the moose runs away, this time along the trail. At first I'm not sure I'll be able to get around so easily since the passable area is smaller (the trail is right in the middle of the usable terrain). Then, just as the moose gets to the edge of this shaded area, he turns back towards me and starts to slowly walk around me, the same way I walked around him. What a courteous moose.

    After passing the moose it is back to the hike as usual. I'm scanning my surroundings for movement, sounds, and smells. The previous day I thought to myself as I was hiking in that this looks an awful lot like rattle snake country. That's odd that there was no warning sign like there was in the Badlands, or the signs they have for bears here. As I continue up a section of trail I had come down an hour or so ago I hear a sound. The new noise is loud and close. My brain starts to analyze the sound and compare it to previously heard sounds on record in my memory. After some time my memory comes back with a positive match for a reptile. This reptile is dangerous and the sound is a warning. The noise I hear is that of a rattlesnake. I feel a wave of adrenaline flow through me and before I know what's happening I have stopped and am moving backwards away from the sound which my eyes have moved towards and have confirmed that it is indeed a rattlesnake. I'm glad the rattlesnake knew I was there before I got too close for comfort. When I heard the snake I was probably about 8 feet away, and had moved back to about 15 feet all without thinking or looking at the rocky, uneven, sloped terrain below my feet.

    The snake is bathing in the sun. I know how the snake feels as I was fairly cold at night and I am warm blooded. So he tells me to go around. I heed the snakes polite suggestion and again go off trail to avoid further confrontation.

    The next couple of animals I see are much less intense. The deer I saw I don't think noticed I was there until I got behind it. I was as surprised to sneak up on it as it was too see me so close and at it's 6. The ear size on deer always amazes me. The wood pecker was nice to see as well. As I got close to camp I took note of the easy entrance into the water and decided to take a dip. I hadn't seen a single person in 24 hours so it didn't matter that I had no bathing suit or towel. I jumped in and got out quickly. It may have been about 70 degrees in the sun, but that water was cold as it was overnight. As I air dried I stared upstream when I saw a large bird flying towards me. It looks like a bald eagle but it's too far away to be sure. Then it turned 90 degrees to my right and revealed more defining features. The bald eagle capped off the day with just about all the stereotypical animals one will find in Yellowstone. I'm glad I did the hike.

    Pictures: I think some elk antlers with the top of its scull. Elk along with the rest of the deer family shed and regrow their antlers every season, but it appears that this elk is no longer with us. The moose. A beautiful bend in the river. The rattlesnake. Fall colors. The remains of a bison. Most likely the work of a grizzly bear.    Читать далее

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  • ПутешественникCoast to coast plus...
    День 27

    Yellowstone, The Lesser Known

    26 сентября 2016 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    My night at Norris was a little warmer than the night at Lewis Lake. Everything was still covered in frost but I didn't feel like the morning was as cold. Today I'm headed for the backcountry of Yellowstone out of the Blacktail Creek trail head. It's located only 20 or so miles from the northwest entrance of the park along the Yellowstone river. My plan is to hike in about 4.5 miles, set up camp, and then do an out and back the next day returning to the same campsite.

    To get to the trail head I have to drive from Norris to Canyon Village, and then about 3/4 of the way to Mammoth Hot Springs. There is a road between Norris and Mammoth Hot Springs, but it is closed for construction. I didn't mind the extra distance because I chose a hike that was short the first day and would only take about 2 hours. It was also another beautiful drive over Dunraven Pass which gets up to about 9000 feet. On the way up to the pass there is a gorgeous view if the Yellowstone basin and the Teton range off in the distance. The ride down was just as gorgeous.

    I arrive at the trailhead at about 1 o'clock. After arriving I start to prepare for the hike. All said and done it took about an hour to reorganize my backpack and take only the essentials. My small camelback day pack gets crammed with a two nights hike worth of stuff. To the bottom of the pack I secure my sleeping bag with some chord. In my pack goes my tent, 4 wool shirts, one pair of socks, a hat, gloves, some nuts, a stove, fuel, a knife, toothbrush, toothpaste, sunscreen, trowel, TP, and some Chapstick. On top of my pack in the sack that my sleeping bag came in I store the rest of my food and a water filter. I also stash the tent poles and steaks on the side of my pack and my solar panel and battery go on top of it all, which is how I have enough charge in my phone right now to write this.

    I start walking not knowing what to expect like any trail you've never hiked before. It is fairly flat and uneventful. About a mile or so later I come across a bison grazing alone. I continue along the trail and a couple hiking out with fishing poles is going back to the trail head. I pass one other person, sitting off to the side of the trail meditating and that's it for a person that I'll see that day. As I drop down into the canyon, I can start to hear the river. I come to a suspension bridge and the hike starts to get interesting. Only about 3/4 of a mile left to go. I get to my site right around 4. Set up, eat dinner, filter water, and hang my food. Then I sat by the river until it gets to be dusk. Before the sun dipped behind the hill in the other side of the river I noticed how wide open it is across the way. A perfect vantage to spot an animal. Now that I can hardly make things out, I hear some leaves rustling. I can't tell where it came from so I jump up and spin around with my bear spray at the ready. I see and hear nothing. All of my senses are on high alert and I scan my surroundings for movement or a sound. As I look across the river I spot a large black object. It moves and reveals that it is a black bear. I'm glad it's on the other side of the river and exploring the side of the river I'm on. It's time to retreat to the relative safety of my tent. My hands are starting to get cold anyway. I fall asleep rather quickly, and don't wake up very often throughout the night. A night above freezing!

    Pictures: Morning frost at Norris. Dunraven Pass looking over Yellowstone and the Teton range. Yellowstone Canyon. The suspension bridge that takes me to the north side of Yellowstone river. My fully loaded day pack after arriving at camp. The view out of my campsite.    Читать далее

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  • ПутешественникCoast to coast plus...
    День 26

    Yellowstone, The Well Known

    25 сентября 2016 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    What goes up must come down. I sure hope so cause it's cold up here! Last night was the coldest night on the trip so far. 28 degrees F and I was wearing all but one of my shirts, and I had long underwear and socks on. I wasn't uncomfortably cold but cold enough to interrupt my slumber. I'm pretty excited for the day however, because it will be the first sunny day in 3 whole days! Three days without the sun and rainy weather doesn't seem like a lot especially coming from NE, but when you're traveling on a motorcycle and predominately camping, sun is very important.

    After eating breakfast and warming my hands on my stove, it's time to break down camp and wash my cookware. Not exciting when it's still freezing out and the sun has yet to crest the trees. If I wait for the sun, it will be 11 before I'm on the road, so I get to it. Everything is covered in frost, which quickly freezes my hands. Every couple of minutes I do a few jumping jacks, stair climbs on the picnic table bench, and some rapid fire punches into the air aimed at the ground. It you don't know what I'm talking about with the rapid fire punches, yes it looks ridiculous (just like jumping jacks) but yes it also gets your heart pumping and warms you up a bit. Try it some time. I eventually get the bike packed and ready to go. All my gear is on and it's hard to move. I guess the temperature made my jacket and gives a little stiff, as well as the 4 wool shirts I'm wearing underneath. I get on the bike and try and start her up. The starter motor cranks the engine several times and nothing. I wait a couple seconds, and slosh the fluids around in the bike. Attempt number 2 doesn't get the engine started either but it sounds better. I should note that this is the coldest start I've attempted as well as the highest elevation, a double whammy for a carbureted engine. So I was a little unsure I would get the bike started. Luckily for me, the machine I'm riding is very well known for being reliable and simple. Third time's a charm and the bike starts up! Ever since I got into the Tetons (due to the elevation) I'd been having to give it a little gas on the start. I always thought motorcyclists were just showing off when they revved the engine on startup, but there are times where it's necessary and boy does it feel good when that engine cranks over under the power of combustion after a few failed attempts.

    I'm off to see Yellowstone! One of the most well known parts of the US. As I drive to the West thumb of Yellowstone lake it is gorgeous out, but damn it's cold. Luckily the speed limit in the park is only 45mph, so my hands and feet don't totally freeze off. The heated grips that my fine co-workers at CSS got me as a parting gift are doing the trick! I crank em up to 11 and they work like a charm (at least for the palms of my hands, which makes the ride doable and not unbearable). If I didn't have those heated grips, I would have had to pull over and punch the air every 5 miles. So thanks a million if you're reading Amit and crew. I've also put my newly acquired gators to work and they seal up the gap between my boots and pants nicely. When I get to the west thumb, the park is already proving its worth. There are bubbling mud pots and gorgeous hot spring pools. I walk around for a bit, but there is much to see, so I get back on the road. Immediately I am stopped in traffic at the exit of the parking lot. Two elk are walking around near the exit and people decide to stop and gawk. I knew this would happen, but I didn't think it would be so soon. After the jokers in front of me snap their precious photos while blocking the road, I head towards Ol'faithful. To be honest I wasn't that excited to see it since I knew how crowded it would be. Once I got there, I stood off to the side. People were crowding around this one area as if they were going to get the best view because it was in the center. Maybe they were right, but it looked like I was closer. I wait for 10 minutes and the crowd grows bigger. A man with his wife pulls her towards the masses saying, "it's not THAT one (there are three mounds that look to be geysers, the one he pulls her away from is the one with a column of steam steadily flowing out), it's the one that all the people are close to. You just have to see were the biggest crowds are and that's how you know what you should be looking at!" I have the complete opposite view of what I should be looking at. And just as the universe would have it, the geyser that's closest to the center is not old faithful. The one that's closest to me is. I felt bad for that woman, but was happy that that guy was wrong. As for Ol'faithful, it didn't disappoint. I have to say it was more impressive than I thought it would be. What a cool natural phenomenon. That was the theme for the rest of the day. I was in awe at nature. The landscape didn't seem like it was of this world, or at least the world that I knew. I tried to imagine what it must have been like to happen upon these natural wonders without knowing they existed. Then telling my friends what I had seen and sounding crazy.

    The day was going well. I had seen some pretty awesome things, but I had to secure a campsite. I was told by the rangers that campgrounds fill up fast, so get there early. This presented a problem as the campground I wanted to stay at was at the end of my route for the day. If I visited all the places I wanted to see first, it would be 4 or 5 o'clock before I arrived at the campground. My investigation the day before gave me the intel that the camp that I wanted to stay at tonight filled up before 4. It was just after noon when I decided that it was in my best interests to secure a campsite before checking everything else out. That meant a meaningless 60 miles and a loss of two hours, but at least I would have a place to sleep. I wasn't happy about it but I went for it. Luckily the drive was beautiful. Yellowstone was exactly what most Americans wanted, a beautiful landscape full of large wildlife all accessible from the seat in your car or RV. But it also had more to offer. I'll get to that in the next post.

    I finally arrive at Norris campground. Like all national park and forest campgrounds that I've been to on this trip, there is no one at the office and there is a self service pay station that accepts cash or check. I have cash, but not in the correct denomination. This is fine except for the fact that every one of these campgrounds has a host working there, but they never have change and you're usually in the middle of nowhere several miles away from anything. It's somewhat OK because I have more things to see that day which gets me within a few miles of an establishment that can make change. After setting up my tent and dumping some gear and food in the bear box, I head back out to see more of the park. Bison continue to hang out on the side of the road, and I see a few coyotes. The road winds next to meandering rivers and undulates up and down the sides of mountains. The ride is beautiful, the best roads for a motorcycle I've been on. While going to the campground wasn't convenient, it wasn't a waste of time like I had previously thought. It was actually one of the highlights of the day.

    Geyser after geyser, and vista after vista it was finally time to call it. That ever so dangerous dusk was approaching. Hitting an animal in a car is scary, but most likely you will be fine. When you're on two wheels, the animal you hit may come out of the incident with less injury than you. A new concept for me but something I respect and try to avoid.

    Wow what a day. Yellowstone was exactly what I thought it would be and I was still amazed by its beauty and vastness. The park is massive!

    Pictures: My frost covered,... cover over my motorcycle. A beautiful pool at the West Thumb Geyser Basin. Ol'faithful. Another view of Yellowstone lake at the west thumb, a gurgling mud pot in the foreground. Geyser activity in Black Sand Basin. Bacterial mats near Grand Prismatic Spring.    Читать далее

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  • ПутешественникCoast to coast plus...
    День 24

    Death Canyon

    23 сентября 2016 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ 🌧 5 °C

    My next campsite was at about 8400 feet in death canyon. I get there around 3 and set up camp. Luckily I get there just before the clouds burst open with pea sized hail and a deluge of rain. The hail lasts for about a half hour but the rain doesn't stop till 4am. It hails a few more times in the evening and I'm glad I set my tarp up above my tent. I get a little sleep and manage to stay relatively warm and dry. It's twilight and I peek out of the tent to see if the sun is on its way. I spot a red fox just outside my tent. It quickly darts into the trees as I think it realized I was there. I finally crawl out of my tent and eat breakfast. All the while I am trying to stay warm while I pack up all my wet gear.

    I don't get my hands and feet warmed up till I'm about a half hour into the hike. Today I descend the rest of the way. I'm following moose tracks most of the way down. I get to some switchbacks and the moose tracks go straight up the side of the mountain. Absolutely amazing animals. The morning is filled with a little bit of sun, but as I get close to the trailhead the clouds start to show signs of rain. I reach the bike and start to repack. As I have all of my gear strewn about the parking lot it of course starts rain again. Everything gets wet and I have a few choice words for the unwelcome rain.

    Once everything is packed I head for the visitor center to return the bear canister. While I'm there I get a room using precious Wi-Fi at a Super 8 in Jackson so that I can dry off, warm up, and get a good night's sleep. The hotel is obviously nothing special, but I make the most of it by turning the room into one big clothes line. I grab some food from a nearby grocery store and then pass out.

    The next morning I head for Yellowstone! I wait for the weather to improve a bit as it snowed are higher elevations. The roads were mostly dry when I left the hotel, but the clouds had yet to lift. Even so a little bit of mountain and a whole lot of fall color is showing. The ride is beautiful, but it continues to cool as I ascend again. Here I come Yellowstone.

    First stop is camp. I set up at Lewis Lake (7800 ft) and then make a b-line for the visitor center and back country office. I get a permit for two nights from now and plan on seeing some touristy attractions the next day. I get back to camp and make some new friends who have a fire going. I warm up and engage in some basic get to know you conversion before climbing into my tent. It's going to be a cold night.

    Pictures: Super 8 drying rack. Tetons on my way to Yellowstone.    Читать далее

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  • ПутешественникCoast to coast plus...
    День 23

    Marion Lake

    22 сентября 2016 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

    The next morning I head to the visitor center, pick out a hike, and make my way to the trailhead. I rented a pack in Jackson the night before, and the park requires you to take a bear canister with you. I pack my pack and the bear canister doesn't fit. I have to use my cargo net to secure it to the bottom of the pack. By the time I've found the trailhead (one of the roads was closed between the visitor center and the trail so I have to drive into Jackson and back up into the park, about an hour of driving) and packed my pack, it's 1:30 before I embark on a 9 mile hike. I know i have no time to waste so I get to it.

    The hike is absolutely stunning. I'm hiking with a mission, so I don't even realize how steep the trail is. I only realized after the hike when I descended for two days how much I had climbed. The trailhead is at 6356 ft, and my campsite for the first night is somewhere in the 9200 ft range in about 9 miles. I start the hike at 1:30 and arrive at camp around 5:30. Needless to say I was sore the next day. It was threatening to rain the last two hours of the hike, and luckily it held off till is set up camp. I took a quick dip in the lake to rinse off, it was glacially cold. And passed out till the rain and wind woke me up. The rain was light throughout the night but the wind made my tent and tarp flap around. Luckily the morning brought a few minutes of sun. The rain held off for most of the day.

    Pictures, I don't have any to share on this one. I saved my phone battery in case of emergency.    Читать далее

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  • ПутешественникCoast to coast plus...
    День 22

    Grand Tetons!

    21 сентября 2016 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    I stop in Casper for the night and don't feel like camping out, I need a shower. I find the cheapest hotel and spend the night. I do my laundry in the sink and go to bed early. The next morning I get an early start and head for the Tetons. Wyoming was not as exciting as I thought it would be to drive across. The typography is a little more interesting than the middle of the country, but not terribly so. I do see elk off the road in large fields, as well as the beginnings of mountains off in the distance. I guess I don't know what more I expected to see. The wind the day before Casper is really strong, but the day between Casper and the Tetons is nice. I notice a few trains along the roadside. They are all carrying coal. I spot four trains in total, each about a mile long. Wow.

    As I approach the Tetons, I notice that I've been steadily climbing in elevation. The temperature has stopped going up for the day, and soon 5th gear does not work so well going uphill at lower rpm (around 3700). I have to downshift into 4th to maintain my speed. I must be getting pretty high. A few minutes later I see a sign for the continental divide! Elevation 9584. I now have to give the bike some gas on startup. It's a beautiful clear day out and I keep driving toward the park. Soon I come to an overlook that shows the Tetons. It's absolutely beautiful! The grey peaks are sharp and jagged, which contrasts the soft and vibrant colors of the fall Aspen trees and other colors of the foliage.

    I keep riding and soon I see a view which I think I've seen in a road atlas. The road is straight until it crests. At the end of the road the Tetons shoot up out of the road. The road has tall evergreens on either side of it framing the view. What a sight!

    After entering the park I head towards the visitor center to inquire about hiking. I'm told from the backcountry permit ranger that the weather for the afternoon on Wednesday (which is tomorrow at this point), through Saturday is supposed to be cold and rainy. Snow at higher elevations. Rats! Those were all the days I was planning on being in the park. I take the weather forecast and think about it. Next stop is to set up camp. There is a campground on the map towards the southern end of the park which is good because it is close to Jackson, my next stop where I will try to improve the waterproofness of my feet. The first campsite I come to is in the park and costs $25 a night. I think it's a little steep and I'll be surrounded by RVs. I continue 10 more miles down the road to the next campground. This one is only $12 and it's in the national Forest bordering the park. Sounds like this is where I'll stay. I set up camp and head into Jackson. I stop at Teton mountaineering and eventually bite the bullet and get new boots and gaiters. My old Northface boots are close to 10 years old and are coming apart. I grab a quick dinner and some food for hike I decided to go through with and head back to camp. On the way back it is dark. I'm not thrilled about driving in the dark especially in a place like this that is full of large animals. Ahead I see some headlights and they come to a stop. The headlights are now illuminating a large bull elk with a huge set of antlers. A few more miles down the road and I spot some eyes off the road, there are some deer. It's really time to get off the road.

    I finally make it to camp after a slow 25mph ride. It's getting cold out so I bundle up and get in my tent. I've got a long couple of days ahead.

    Picture: Teton Range    Читать далее

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  • ПутешественникCoast to coast plus...
    День 20

    Wind Cave and Strange Sounds

    19 сентября 2016 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    After seeing amazing carvings in mountains it was time to find a place to sleep. I noticed on the map that there was another national park just south of my location and there was a fairly inexpensive campsite with wood! I got to the site, set up camp, and had a nice fire. Throughout the evening I kept hearing this strange noise. It's hard to describe, but I've never heard it before. At first I thought it was some kids playing with a weird toy, but the sound lasted into the night and started coming from the woods. I figured it was probably an animal, which I found out the next morning that it was indeed a bunch of elk. Apparently it is rutting season. After breaking camp I headed to the cave for a tour. They call it wind cave because it is usually at a different pressure then atmospheric pressure, so the few small natural openings into the cave exhibit a significant breeze. The man-made entrance to the cave has an airlock to preserve this natural pressure difference. This cave apparently has 95% of the world's "box work" which is a natural feature developed by carbonic acid dissolving limestone. The cave was cool, but I had my sights set on the Tetons, a day and a half's drive away.

    Photos: Sunrise at Elk Mountain campground. A good example of box work. The next two are more cave photos.    Читать далее

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  • ПутешественникCoast to coast plus...
    День 19

    Rock Face!

    18 сентября 2016 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    Today I woke up in the Badlands. A unique experience for me to not see anyone when I set off on a hike, sleep in my tent, and then not see anyone on my return hike. The morning was crisp and clear, and I stayed warm all night. That meant the day was going to be hot.

    After repacking the bike from my overnight hike (which is not something that takes a few minutes like it might in a car. Everything has its place so to get things to fit, they all go back into their place.) I make my way towards Rapid City for lunch. On my way out I take the road to the south of the park (well the north eastern part of the park) and go between the two major halves of the park. This road is much less traveled, but absolutely gorgeous. I spot my first buffalo! It feels a bit strange to make it this far in life and not seen such iconic animals.

    Before reaching the city I stop for gas, some regular maintenance on my chain, and check the oil. I notice a little stretch in the chain so I will have to tighten it up. The oil is also going to need a top off in the next few days. This engine design consumes oil as part of its design, so occasional additions of oil is not abnormal.

    After lunch I make my way to Mount Rushmore! Another piece of childhood legend which has stuck with me till today. Wow, what a project for someone to undertake. You really have to measure twice, and set your dynamite off once. Deterred from entering the monument by a parking fee, I stop along the roadside at pull outs which grant fine views of the sculpture. I am amazed at the setting of such a piece of art. It doesn't get more public and permanent than making your art in the side of a mountain.

    Just down the road is the Crazy Horse monument. What an incredible time to see such an undertaking. I hope to see it completed in my lifetime, but the progress may slow at times as the project is privately funded. The scale of this sculpture is even grander than Rushmore. It's actually larger than any of the great pyramids. It was interesting to learn about the progression of the project and to see how it began. Native American elders asked this sculptor who lived in Boston to move South Dakota and build this monument. The gentleman they asked happened to be the perfect guy for the job. I wonder if he was the first one they asked? Not only did the sculptor take the job, he funded the project himself. He and his family of 10 children (who weren't around before construction began) were critical in creating this monument.

    Crazy Horse was definitely something to experience. After walking around the museum a bit, I got back on my pony and headed south to find a place to set up camp. My plan is to explore Wind Cave National park tomorrow, so I saw a camp in the park. It will be perfect for getting an early start tomorrow.

    I was planning on flying back to Boston for Matt and Genevieve's wedding out of Salt Lake city, but seeing as I have 16 nights left before the flight and I am already almost into Wyoming, I changed my flight to leave Seattle. This may increase my chances of getting through the coldest part of the trip by almost two weeks, which could make a significant difference. That means that I could be in the Tetons in two days! Yeehaw!

    Pictures: Sunrise and moonset. A sign I saw on the way in but decided it was picture worthy after I finished the hike. The next one explains itself. I felt pretty Merican standing below Rushmore having ridden in on a motorcycle. Crazy Horse is the next 3. What it looks like today, then the progression over the years, and then a 1/35 scale version.    Читать далее

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  • ПутешественникCoast to coast plus...
    2
    День 18

    The Badlands

    17 сентября 2016 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    I wake up to the sunrise peeking into my tent. It's a beautiful morning but my tent is soaked in dew. I decide to look at some maps while my tent dries off. I eventually get on the road and check out the Oahe dam which is just down the road. The Oahe dam is on the Missouri River, and it creates lake Oahe which is one of the world's largest man-made reservoirs capable of storing up to 23.5 million acre-feet of water. Sounds impressive I guess. I then make my way further west towards the Badlands.

    On the way I continue to notice the crops being grown. Michigan had some farming. Wisconsin has a lot of corn and ton of soy, as did Minnesota. South Dakota also has corn but I've started to see massive sun flower crops. I always knew we grew a lot of food in the Midwest, but seeing it is unreal. To think about the scale of the farming that is happening here is like picturing 23.5 million acre-feet. It is immense, and to some extent frightening how much of one type of food is grown in an area. Corn, soy, and sunflowers, none of which I care to consume a great deal of.

    I make a lunch stop along the way and then I finally arrive. The views are every bit as dramatic as I had imagined. I stop in at the visitors center on the park road, and ask about back country hiking. Apparently you can go anywhere you want. There is no out of bounds, you just can't have a fire or shoot anything. I get a hint about where to park and a good area to hike in. I stash the bike around the corner from the parking lot out of view and take to the wilderness. I walk for about 2 hours and the sun is getting low in the sky. I think that means it's time to set up my tent and eat dinner. I watch the sky for a bit and see a couple of satellites, and then the nearly full moon spoils the starry sky. Time to go to sleep.

    Pictures: Sunrise at cow Creek on lake Oahe. The inlets to the hydroelectric turbines. A glimpse of the Badlands from the loop road. My hidden parking spot. The Badlands from the prairie. My home for the night.    Читать далее

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